Tesla Model 3 - Teardown of VCFRONT (Front Body Controller)
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- In this quick video we take a detailed look inside one of the 3 body controllers used in the Model 3. This one is designated VCFRONT by Tesla.
My cool gyro-sensing electric screwdriver: amzn.to/2veRIL7
Main components BoM:
Main Microcontroller: ST SPC56EC74L8
Fan & Pump Motor Controllers: LV8907 (3)
20A Schottky Diodes: ON Semi MBR2045EMFS
235A N-Channel MOSFETs: ON Semi NVMFS5C426N
5A Low VF Schottky Diodes: Nexperia PMEG045V050EPD
Dual Smart High Side Switch: Infineon BTS5020-2EKA
Single Smart High Side Switch: Infineon BTS5008-1EKB
16bit low power I/O port: NXP PA9539RPW (2)
Unknown ST part: VN1TT4 (Likely a high-side driver)
"It's very elegant." Sandy Munro agrees with you.
Your expertise in dissection of these components is very educational Phil. No fuses... wow. I had little idea my car was so complicated, at least from my perspective.
Thank you for the education!
My pleasure!
Ingineerix, yet another awesome tear-down look from a experienced engineer! Thanks a lot. Judging on Tesla's approach on avoiding fuses and level of component design, I really don't have doubts that Musk's promise to loose 12V battery in Model Y is more that achievable and this will definitely make wiring even less complex. Let us see, please keep up a good work!
I think 12v battery is a legal requirement
I bet Y will still have a 12v.
Amazing teardown again, as always. Keep up the good work!
Really enjoying these videos. Thanks for making them.
You're providing a great service! Thanks!
the dewalt tool you use is the greatest! thanks for these videos!
Thanks, interesting stuff. While I think it's a good design, I wish Tesla provided a UI, so that owners can see if a 'fuse' has tripped, and give them the option to reset it. This becomes more important as owners start to add after-market accessories (dashcams, lights, etc). Right now, it's necessary to wait for the car to sleep, or get a s/w upgrade for a full reset of the fuses, and even then, it's all a bit vague. Do you think they can add a UI? Presumably there is one that Tesla tech's can access.
Thumbs up for metric measurements.
Very interesting. I think the days are over when a shade tree mechanic will be able to fix a brake light that doesn’t work. And many of these parts you can’t just pull from a salvage yard and replace because they need to be authorized by the car before they will work, which requires some Manufacturer’s software or special tool.
Brake lights are LED so they will likely last longer than the car, and fuses automatically reset. There's nothing a "shade tree" mechanic needs to do except wash his Model 3!
One of the top reasons an old shade tree mechanic like myself loves his Model 3. The days of gapping plugs, changing points, rebuilding engines, etc.etc. are gone for my aching back, hurting knees, and always bruised bleeding knuckles....lol. Not going to miss any of that so thank goodness for Tesla and the car from the future Elon built for me!
JeffnReno, yes, I too an tired of crawling under a car in a parking lot in the heat or cold, but when I was younger it was nice to be able to fix my own car. I broke down in Little Rock when passing through on a Friday afternoon of a holiday weekend. Nobody open to fix my car, which threw its timing belt. Luckily a gas station let me use a stall and tools, and I was able to buy the belt at the local auto parts place.
Time will tell if the new dual motor model 3 with claimed redundancy will allow Tesla to make the same promise as the semi, which is that it will be able to keep going until you can bring it in for service.
I owned a 1960 Bel Air, and everything was easy to work on. Two radiator hoses, two heater hoses, 1 fan belt. Not a single solid state component in the whole car.
Sounds like we could swap stories for hours. My first car was a 1950 Plymouth flathead 6 with 3-speed column shift but wasn't fast or loud enough so got rid of it for a 1960 Ford Galaxy with 390 V8 Police interceptor engine and dual glass packs. Went thru 2 55 Chevys, a 2 door post and a 4 door straight 6. 67' El Camino, '70 Charger, '86 Trans Am and the list goes on and on not to mention the various motorcycles thru out those same years. Rice rockets, choppers, and so on. They were fun and I enjoyed driving and working on all of them when I was younger and a lot more flexible. Got so tired of rebuilding carburetors that I learned to love fuel injection. I still enjoy walking around the old cars during Hot August nights here in Reno and talking to the car owners, snapping a few pictures but most of that iron belongs in museums instead of pumping pollutants in my old lungs and ruining the planet for my grandkids.
Thank you so much!
VCFront not as interesting as VCLeft!? Pshaw. This looks like the coolest Vehicle Controller in the car!
I should add how is the sealing handled are there avenues for moisture and corrosion
It's gasketed, I would call it NEMA 4. Not completely waterproof, but should be fine under the hood.
Thanks, very thorough and clear!
Could we have the VCFront or VCLeft video?
An American who uses the metric system... STAND STRONG SIR!
FYI, all cars are all metric now, regardless of maunfacturer, and all engineering/science is metric for the most part.
I have vcfront_a192, vcfront_182, vcfront_a402 in my 2020 model3 (battery is 4 years old)
After going into the service mode low voltage screen I don't have VCFRONT_a192, just VCFRONT_a182, VCFRONT_a402, VCFRONT_a407, and VCFRONT_a371.
the 12V battery reading
voltage between 12.59 to 12.62
current between -0.39 to 0.04
PCS
- HV battery contractors
closed
- DCDC support status
active
voltage target: 12.63V
output voltage: 12:58 to 12.60
output current: 19 - 20.20A
Do I just need a new 12V or new VCFront since the HV battery contractors closed?
Good description as well!
How reliable are the pressed in lugs? Is there a chance for them to be pulled out in some scenario or is that a common mounting method?
They are more reliable than soldering, as under high-vibration and/or thermal cycling like you find in automotive environments, you see a lot of solder joint cracking (aka "Ring around the colllar"). This method eliminates this.
That's very neat and makes sense considering some of the ABS modules that I've had to fix in the past.
Press fit is wonderfully reliable. Like a cold weld.
Thanks a lot for this. Would be grateful if you could re-upload teardowns of VCLEFT and VCRIGHT.
so much tech in tesla
im curious how does this compare to other auto manufactures thinking more perhaps of bosch or siemans when it comes to the integrated electronics i know that munro and assoc stated that tesla is years ahead
Great question. I'd enjoy that answer too as it all looks insanely cutting edge to my untrained eye.
yes, i have same question
Munro said all the good things about the AutoPilot module. Tier 1 manufacturers have beautifully built modules, but they tend to build separate modules for separate functions( one for the seats, one for controlling the door windows etc) or a single body controller for cheaper cars. Tesla built 3 of them (this one is a glorified fuse box), the obvious advantage is that it is cheaper (a lot of components will be repeated in all modules), the obviose disadvantage is that if something fails in one of these modules, the owner will have to pay more and replace the whole module even if just the seat controller has given up.
Munro didn't even recognize what parts were in-house and what were suppliers. I think Tesla is right on the current state of the art. Also, To my knowledge no other manufacturer has went fuseless.
Ingineerix It is easy not to recognize parts from computer manufacturing side when all you've looked at have been purely automotive parts...
Love your videos, but what happened to the VCLEFT video? It's gone :(
As you said it was much more interesting than the VC Front video. Hope to see it up again soon :)
Btw. does the VCRIGHT contain anything cool?
I was wondering where it went too. I recalled watching it.
Yes, what happened to the VCLEFT video?
I have a model Y 2023, and in no more than 8 months and ~8500 Km, this piece of hardware broke. I was wondering what is the probability of this breaking so fast. Also what could it impact if this happens during drive. To me it happened in the parking lot, it was saying vechicle is shutting down, please pull over safely, and I have a lot of issues popping out on my board, ABS no working, low voltage battery disconnected, steering assist reduced, Parking brake not set, Electrical system is unable to support all features... so on. What would happen if this piece of hardware is braking when I have 100 Km/H? Also another question, if they repair this on warranty how can I be sure on the car repair, to feel safe when driving it?
Thanks
Very good job. Do you have the electric diagram frontal ALL system?
Any ideas for the proper name for the small smt busbar thingies? Maybe even part numbers?
Do you have any idea what different modules are controlled via this board? Is it handling sensor feedback and controlling by itself, or is it just a centralized routing board that passes stuff up to the main driving computer(s)?
Thanks for the video! Regarding the large press fit terminals,
I'd guess that they are a weak point in the design. Though, I've never seen a good way to connect large conductors to a PCBA. In their favor, they consume minimal real estate.
I haven't seen any fail yet in the field, even when large crash forces are at play. As long as the connector shell is restrained, the terminals can't add moment to the press-fits.
is there a part number on the bus-bar sections soldered all over the board?
I don’t have power on left side, front and back doors, charging flap ,key card doesn’t read , only on the right side I can open doors and windows.
Question: do I need to check/change VCleft or VCFront ?
Go into service mode and look at the alerts. They will tell you what's going on. I'm happy to consult if you'd like to email me, my contact info is in my channel's "about" tab: (use a full computer browser not a phone) ua-cam.com/users/ingineerixabout
Great work phil now i want to buy a salvage tesla
It's a lot of work! Only take something on like this if you have a lot of spare time, and if you are doing it to save money, that's not a valid reason. (you don't save enough in most cases to be worth it vs. your time spent.) If you are doing it because you enjoy the work, that's different.
Hey Phil!
I found your channel after watching the video from RichRebuilds.
How is it you disable the Linux subsystem logging of the Tesla, do you ssh into it or how do you communicate with it?
Also, do you think its something I should do on a model 3 or just leave it?
You still have a long long time before you have to worry about it on a 3! I'm hoping my exposure of the problem will prompt Tesla to fix it. While I'd love to take your money, My advice is to wait and see if they do the right thing. Check back in a year or so and we'll see where it's at.
It takes around 4 years to kill the 8GB eMMC on a Model S or X. The Model 3 has around 4 times the logging data, but the eMMC is a newer 64GB part. So if all other things were equal should at least make it around 8 years. (Likely longer because it's a newer part)
@@Ingineerix ....So your comment (above) was made one year ago. I'd like to check with you about where things currently stand with the eMMC logging ? any fixes ? sorry if i missed it.
@@zaneenaz4962 They are still hammering the hell out of all flash memory in all cars. 3/Y have a larger eMMC, so it will take longer to fail, but they are still logging WAY TOO MUCH in my opinion.
@@Ingineerix This is a sloppy part of the software design, should allow a way to go into service mode to turn on/off debugging logs.
At the top of board it says E (as in Tesla model E) 2:50
Thanks!
I was able to get my 21 M3 into Service Mode and see a VCFRONT_a192_vehicleLoadShed (PCS refusal to charge LV system, most likely due to the crash event), I also see a BMS_a059_SW_Pack_Voltage_Sensing (HV Pack output differs by more then 3% of the sum of the HV modules) and lastly an HVP_w021_PyroMiaFault which is probably precipitating the previous two alerts. The collision did NOT generate an SRS/Airbag deployment. and there is no visible damage to the battery module. The interesting part is that I was able to charge the main battery UNTIL i did a software upgrade to the 2022 24 6 release. Does this tell you anything? I hate to think that the Battery Pack needs to be replaced.
I have a heat pump model 3 with collision damage that I am restoring, the front inverter lv connector was obliterated and I have replaced it (and the data harness). ATM the lv battery is not charging and I’m getting a vcfront_a192 after about a half hour of charging the lv battery with my shop battery charger. The main battery is at 60%, and I see no evidence that the DCDC converter is charging the lv battery. Is the output of the DCDC converter fused?
VCFRONT_a192_criticalLoadShed means it is advising the modules in the car to go to low power mode because something is inhibiting the power state. Yes, everything is fused somehow, but the right thing to do is read the diag alerts, as they will tell you all you need to know without digging.
How can I get access to Telit modem? Is it easy? It’ll be great if you can make a walk through video to get access to Telit modem inside model 3. Thanks. Love your work
Any idea what compound they are using for heat transfer between the PCB and the case?
It's some sort of machine applied compound that cures. Something like this: www.marketingeast.com/products/thermally-conductive-silicone-compounds-65-00-1642-0000/
I have two questions involving the connectivity of the Tesla series.
Tldr; do you really need SIM card and how important is it?
First one, will removing the SIM card prevent the MCU from working properly? ( ignoring obvious creature Comfort connectivity like GPS map downloads and music streaming). Second question, assuming that, yes the mcu would still work without the SIM card, can Tesla still send out updates or modifications to your Tesla. My gut feeling says no, considering the SIM card is literally for internet connection, but is there a secondary method of connecting to Tesla headquarters?
Jonathan Nunez don’t worry, you will still get updates and stuffs even after replacing tesla SIM card
Thanks for the provided insights. Is there any possibility you could provide high resolution fotos of the module?
Hello, I have a can-bus comm. problem. It has stopped to send can-bus messages, what could be the problem.
This is like asking a doctor why you have a headache. There is no way to know without proper diagnosis. I find problems like this easy to fix with diagnostic access.
Can you tell how many layers and what the substrate PCB material is? How thick?
I'd say it's at least 4. Hard to tell.
Ingineerix, sorry if this is a silly/amateur question:
Looking at the diagram for the LV8907. It looks like the chip has independent lines for each phase of the motor (U,V,W). Do the UH, VH, WH (and UL, VL, UL, etc) all run from this controller to the motors directly? That seems like it would be a waste of pins. Or am I misunderstanding how the motor controller is laid out?
All 3-phase motor inverters require 6 total switches. (a switch for each of the 3 legs that can connect it to + or -.) So any controller driving such an inverter has to have at least 6 signals. The LV8907 is an integrated driver, so it also contains the FET driving circuitry, so even more pins are needed in this case.
Is there not a more efficient (in terms of the number of connectors needed to this board) way of doing it? Tesla seems to have the mentality of restricting the number of connectors going to each board. This seems counterintuitive to that mentality
The Model 3 has WAY less wiring compared to any other vehicle of it's complexity. I think they are doing a good job.
That makes sense. Thank you for the replies! I really enjoy your content
So if there is a overcurrent.... the shunt voltage is used by an ADC to do cut-off. But is this a discrete circuit? Or is it done by controller and software?
There is a simple current trigger in hardware set at a certain safe threshold. It doesn't rely on an ADC or software, but that is a second layer for more precise control.
Is it apparent how the hardware controlled (not microcontroller/software) fuse cutout works? A voltage from the current sense resistor....?
Yes, check out some of my other videos for more details, such as this one: ua-cam.com/video/fUCgLCbX_18/v-deo.html
Where is the VCLEFT video?
Well, I need to ask a question even though the video was posted 3 years ago. I recently returned from a trip where I received an error regarding the Front Body Controller. I had an aftermarket rear view camera plugged in to the cigarette lighter as I was towing a trailer and needed to be able to see behind me. The service center tried to claim I had caused the malfunction and attempted to charge me for the repair. How could plugging something into the lighter cause a malfunction?
They do this all the time. I have hundreds of stories! The only service centers who act like customers are something they accidentally stepped in that needs to be scraped off the bottom of their feet. The 12v accessory (cig lighter) socket is powered by VCLEFT, not VCFRONT, so it's not even directly connected.
Curious if the board have any external memory for storage ? Probably not...
Hi, Do you know if is possible to clone this module by reading&writing central mcu ST SPC56EC74L8 ?
No, because there is calibration data in flash. Why would you want yo do this? To install a new one, all you need is to install it and redeploy software from service mode.
Any wiring diagrams or service manuals available for the Model 3?
Tesla has not released them even in states with right-to-repair legislation. If you live in one of those states, or know someone that does, have them speak up!
Does anyone know how they implemented reverse battery protection? Any idea on when we can have a look at VC left or VC right Video?
Do you have any high resolution photos of the board? There's an argument on a forum. Some people think that there is a "battery charger" module on vcfront that modulates/converts the power from the PCS into the charging voltages an AGM needs. I disagree with them. It appears to me that the 12V battery is connected directly to the PCS through an e-fuse setup.
No, there is no physical battery charger circuitry in VCFront. Only an electronic fuse (high side driver) and a current shunt on the line to the 12v battery. The PCS (under the rear seat) contains the DC-DC converter. VCFront does indeed monitor the state of the 12v battery and requests voltage setpoints from the PCS to effect the 3-stage algorithm. The 12v voltage is the same throughout the car, so depending on phase of the 12v charging algorithm and 12 battery temperature, you will see the whole system voltage move anywhere from about 13.5 to 15 volts. There is a temperature sensor on the negative post of the 12v battery so the charge algorithm can be properly temperature compensated. It would be a waste to add a complex buck-boost circuit to VCFront for battery charging, when there is no need, as the only variable that has to change is system voltage.
You wouldn't need high-res pictures to see such a circuit; a very obvious large inductor would be visible for a charge circuit to exist.
@@Ingineerix That was my understanding as well. Plus, the Model 3 Theory of Operations document doesn't mention any such thing.
I was kind of curious about what the microcontroller looking chip near the BAT+ terminal is though...
Bozi Can you tell us all the part markings on that ST chip? Thanks!!
It's all in my description. Shame most commenters here prefer to post without reading first.
I removed the rear subwoofer and amp without disconnecting the battery, and shorted it out. How do I reset the system since I didn’t blow a fuse?
Just because you didn't blow a fuse, doesn't mean damage wasn't done. I recommend you power down the car completely, and also do so in the future when you are working on it. To do so: Roll down all windows, (so you don't lock yourself out!) choose "shutdown" from the service tab in the car menu, once the screen goes black, Disconnect the negative lead on the 12v battery. (located under cowling cover in frunk.) Then lift up the passenger side corner of the rear seat cushion and disconnect the rectangular connector there. There is a plastic lever about 1 foot from the end of the seat where the cushion meets the carpet (basically in-between where the legs would be for a rear passenger). Once you lift up the cushion, there will be a styrofoam cube protecting the connector you will have to lift out. Once you pull this connector, you will hear a big "clunk" which is the high-voltage system shutting down. To release this connector, squeeze the tab on the bail and tilt the bail DOWN away from the connector body until it stops. After the clunks (contactors opening) The car will now be totally dead. You can reconnect this connector back and the car will stay dead until the 12v battery is reconnected.
Are the caps eletrolitic? Do we need to worry about them needing replacing in 15 years?
No, Any good engineer plans for this and makes sure there is enough bulk capacitance to last the life of the unit. I bet bit-rot in the Flash memory will kill this before the caps do. (Well outside of the car's lifetime)
What happened to the vcleft video?
My 12V battery had to be replaced on my 2021 model Y less than 3 weeks of taking delivery. Then 2 weeks later I got a warning to replace it again. Tesla service center told me they have to replace the front controller. Is this what they’re talking about? Why would this happen to a brand new car?
Infant mortality. As you can see this controller is quite complex. One tiny part out of place could result in a problem that may have not been detected in manufacturing. It's rare but does happen!
@@Ingineerix Thank you for your reply!
So what's the advantage of using this fancy mosfet fuseless design over fuses? It doesn't look like it could be cost with that huge circuit board?
It now cost you hundreds of dollars (or more) to replace what would otherwise be a few cent fuse.
There is no need to replace anything. If a short is ever detected, it simply cuts power to the affected circuit and will automatically restore it once the fault is cleared. It can also respond much faster than a normal fuse. It was done for fault tolerance, because this is the first car built from the ground up to be able to drive itself without a driver present. They don't want a failed fuse causing a dangerous situation on the road.
I too found your channel after watching RichRebuild's latest video. But from the date of this video, it appears you haven't produced any new videos lately. Do you plan to reverse engineer the systems? I got the impression from Rich's video you were the 'goto guy' for Tesla DIYers. I looked at the other sections of this channel for a description of the purpose but I didn't see one. I did see from Rich's video that you are keeping busy supporting customers remotely. If you could explain your goals for this channel it would be helpful.
The purpose of my channel is just to share my knowledge of technology and engineering. Since I have learned a lot about Tesla's systems and many people are interested in also learning about it, I have chosen to share as much as I can. Making videos takes a lot of time, and sadly, it doesn't make enough money to consider giving up my other work to focus more on video production. I'm also currently trying to get my shop moved from it's current location of 17 years here in Berkeley, and it's consuming what little spare time existed before. This is why I haven't had free time to do more videos recently. When I get settled in at the new location, I will resume making videos, including a new series on the Sprinter Conversion. Be sure to Subscribe to see my future videos!
@@Ingineerix You should copy this reply to the 'About' tab of your channel. It would help your subscribers and visitors appreciate your situation. Thank you for sharing your work.
I have had a faulty OAT indication since my model 3 was delivered in 2018. Tesla replaced the sensor but the problem persisted. The wiring diagram shows the wire from the sensor goes to the central body controller. What portion of the board outputs the OAT?
Thanks.
Have Tesla replace VCFront under warranty.
@@Ingineerix Unfortunately, easier said than done. I have had several service appointments-after Tesla replaced the sensor (problem persisted) they kept the car for several days without touching it. Finally I canceled the service and retrieved it. Another time, they said expect 10 days to research and fix. I left with my car. They have a greater tolerance for delay than I do. I have an appointment tomorrow. I requested replacement, their response was that it must be fully checked- sounds like part is not in stock. I have looked at the salvaged market and several are available. Doesn't look too difficult to swap out, but my concern - is this part "plug and play"? Or, do you have to have the network accept the new part and reprogram the replacement? I assume nothing within the VCFront has anything to do with my FSD/AutoPilot (which I have paid for). If I can get a used part cheap enough, I would buy a replacement and just swap it out. Please advise on your opinion on plug and play. Thanks again.
Happy to report Tesla replaced the VCFront, OAT now functions.
Can you replace the LTE sim of model 3 around LA or San Fran to take it to grey market ?
On most 3's, Tesla is using an internal eSim, so root access is needed to change it. (I can do this) However, outside the US the LTE bands are different, so the modem will not do LTE in most of the world.
Ingineerix the modem they are using(Telit) support the LTE bands from my country. Can you help me in that case?
Ingineerix can I get your email address for the address?
Yes, if you click "about this channel", you can find my email. (Must be logged into YT)
Yes
What’s the mcu processor p/n? Is it an ST microelectronics part?
Any idea if Tesla makes their own PCB's or do they design it and have someone produce them?
I seriously doubt they do, generally that's not something even large companies vertically integrate on.
Hey boss do you happem to know where the Front Right VC is located ? Thank UA-cam advanced!
Well there is no "front right", there is a Front, and there is a right. Front is behind the LV battery in the frunk, and right is behind the kick panel (in front of the front right door opening, sort of opposite where the door hinges mount).
@@Ingineerix oh ok thank you so so much seriously ! There isn’t much info on repairing teslas online but ur content has been a huge help
mosfets sometimes fail short, then if you have no fuse you're out of luck
There is a pyrotechnic disconnect that can remove HV power much faster than a traditional fuse if a short is detected.
What should i study to design this pcb on my own?
Do you know if someone reversed engineer any of the tesla boards and have the schematics somewhere?
No, but that would be a fantastic contribution!
¿why all this complication for 12Vbatt delivery instead of using relays, y'know, like everyone has been doing for decades (like terminal 30 in VW)?.
Fault tolerance. The Model 3 is the first production car built from a clean sheet designed to be able to drive itself without a human inside. They want to reduce the chances that a single failure could put the car into a state where it cannot get itself safely off the road. Imagine a blown fuse or flaky relay in a car that's driving itself suddenly fails and the car just drifts into a bunch of pedestrians. Wouldn't be good for the future of self-driving cars!
Sir do you have teardown of VCLEFT and VCRiGHT ?
Not yet
Is there any video show how to change Sim card for Tesla model 3
No, but there is a SIM slot in the bottom of the ICE, but Tesla uses the internal E-SIM on most cars. In any event, you would need programming to set the APN even if you did, as it's not automatic.
Maybe a dumb question, but how does this replace a fuse box? In a regular car the fuse blows, you replace the fuse. What happens with Model 3?
amarsandhu3 The MOSFETs act like really fast switches. When overcurrent, overtemperature, the voltage is out of the normal range or whatever else fault happens, the MOSFETs will switch off. When the fault disappers or when the controller thinks it is right, it will switch on the MOSFETs. Think of these as really smart fuses that you don't have to replace.
I think of them like thermal switches that reset when the temp drops back down but I'm just old school and not really an electronics tech. Your explination is much better.
While that's true it still seems like a really stupid idea. Mosfets tend to fail shorted. That is not a good failure mode! They should have put fuses somewhere in line as a back up safety.
Is there any venting system provided to release the pressure?
It is not a sealed enclosure. On the newer cars they do now seal it, and provide a gore breather.
How hard was this to remove from the car? Tesla wanting to charge me $216 for labor, will probably do it myself.
Takes about 45 minutes. You have to have a good E-Torx set.
Any videos on how to remove and replace the front controller?
What was PCB thickness approximately?
It would suck if you had electrical issues and no Tesla dealership near by.
Hey man what is the specific diagnostic tools for Tesla ?
Sadly, Tesla hasn't released any. There are no tools available on the aftermarket. If you need diagnostics or programming on a Tesla, feel free to drop me an email. (Address is in my channel info)
Does this controller have anything to do with the persistent VCFRONT_a180 error message a few people are getting?
VCFRONT_a180 means the 12v battery is not being supported (meaning the 12v DC-DC converter in the PCS is offline). I think this is a problem with the PCS, not VCFront, it just happens the VCFront is the ECU in charge of 12v battery health, so it's the ECU to notice!
@@Ingineerix ok thanks. The Service Center replaced the DD/DC converter which did not fix the issue. They then blamed a hitch, the Stealth Hitch which I had removed but that also did not fix the issue. I saw the error again today, intermittent for about 5 mins then it vanished, so I’m at a loss.
@@Zoolookuk Sad to hear, seems like most of the guys at the service center LOVE to blame their customers for faults. I personally have had this experience, and had the service center flat out LIE to my face. This is the main reason I started hacking on Teslas, I was sick of their b**ls**t! Check all the connections from VCfront to the PCS, there is a really heavy red cable that starts on VCfront and stops off at VCright (passenger kick panel) where there is a bolted connection. I've seen this connection be loose FROM THE FACTORY and cause these issues. Note, this is bolted with a ny-lock nut, so there is no possible way it "came loose" which is what service will claim if they ever find it. There is also a known issue where the ground strap from the PCS to the body doesn't make a solid connection. This is easy to inspect by lifting the rear seat cushion on the passenger side.
@@Ingineerix You might be interested that the PCS board was replaced but didn't fix the issue, it still occurred, so then the entire VCFONT was replaced as well. Apparently it was reading a 16v spike from the PCS which may have been occurring at some point but no longer was. Very odd. It through both VCFRONT_a180 and VCFRONT_a195 errors, often in the middle of the night after waking up.
can a small drive unit run at 150V
No
What kind of freon is Model 3 using R134a or R1234yf?
In the US market: R134A.
Ingineerix This is good. Because here in Europe the new R1234yf is very expensive, if you have to make some repair.
mondayfool Yes, European new climate walls. I have read that every car created for Europe from 1 January 2017 must be with R1234yf.
@@TechnologyMove The European requirements are defined in several timesteps, related to application and volume. So you can still use many types of refrigerants. The regulations will force manufacturers to best practices but over time to keep transitional cost down.
Dumb question. Is this where the Autopilot computer / chip is? Nevermind, it is not. That would be part 1098058-S0-L, "CAR,COMPUTER,MCU,ADAS,ASSY-PROVISIONED"
Correct, Autopilot lives inside the ICE which is located on the firewall behind the glovebox. This is also containing the MCU.
So, what does this board do?
Front body controller, It also replaces what would be the fusebox in older cars.
...is that a Triforce near the "FRONT" imprint? ahah
No, thats the ESD warning
Yeah I kind of was quite sure it was not a Nintendo copyright right there.
whats the name of that controller chip
If you look in the description, I listed all major part numbers.
interesting it says 'air suspension' on the bottom right, air susp coming soon lol?
Yes, It's clear Tesla intended to offer it. They are trying to keep production as simple as possible for now, so reducing the number of options helps keep production high.
Where is SIM card slot?
Early cars had a SIM, which is located in the bottom of the ICE (on passenger side firewall). Newer cars have switched to an internal E-SIM built into the Telit Modem.
How can I get access to Telit modem part and replace with new modem?
Why didn't you show the other side!?!?! The other side of the board is covered with large surface mount components. (The side you were looking at was absolutely covered in BGA part vias.)
I DID show the other side! Watch at 6:40. I understand short attention span and all, but it took you longer to write this question than to watch the rest of my video!
Also, those are not BGA Vias, they are for heat transfer, which I also mentioned in the video.
@@Ingineerix Yes, you did say "via stitching" which is the first time I've heard the term. I've been out of PCB design for a while.
this is a real tesla technician not like richrubish claiming to be a tesla tecnician and don't even know how to properly apply teflon tape. what a shame.
I take it you don't know any good reason why it would have a 12V lead acid battery? certainly a pretty huge mystery to me why they would use it.
No, there are a lot of reasons why it's there. No mystery at all.
Sigh. Disappointing thoughtless hostile tone. Name one good reason for using such a large and heavy lead acid battery. Or better yet, realize your mistake.
Because nearly all car systems run on 12V and getting rid of it would put all module dependency on the HV battery and DC-DC converter. Running the DC-DC all the time would waste a ton of power and in the event of a crash when the HV system shuts down you need backup power for the ECUs.
Ass.
You didn't need to sign your comment. The issue is not 12V, the issue is lead acid and such a large weight of it. The issue could be handled by as little as two or even a single 2170 cell in a holder. Very easily serviceable even though it would never need to be replaced. Super elegant. A 2170 cell contains around 21Wh of energy. That's enough to run emergency blinkers and a high powered smartphone for a full day. I'm not saying it has to be a single cell but it could easily be if their EE kongfu was decent. And of course a small circuit could easily produce 12V from the cell.
Dude you're a dumbass. And you're completely missing the point. I can't believe you're even questioning the "EE kongfu" of Tesla. The list of reasons the lead-acid is still there is a mile long, chief among them being reliability. What happens if a DC-DC converter fails while the vehicle is on autopilot? Lead-acid dont care. And a million other reasons. Source: an EE working in automotive powertrain systems.