I think the worst thing my old high school ever did was take the woodshop out. I spent countless hours in that shop. It proved to be priceless to me. Anyway I used to be able to hand over pieces to them I needed help with and they would return it absolutely perfect. I was even privy to some of their wood at times. WIn win for both of us. I miss that shop
Great video! Laminating without lots of tools: A largish scrap slab of granite or similar and contact glue sand paper on it and lap each piece until they're did flat. It's not as horrible as it seems Get relatively close with hand planes, then lap on the slab (which most of these countertop places have huge waste bins of the stuff they have to haul off they're usually happy to give out a piece or two of remnants)
@@TexasToastGuitars I'm sure you have used by now, but the salt does work pretty good. Especially when you don't have enough or the proper clamps, LOL My Shop Dust collection done, video up, I will be testing the pin router collection on it this weekend. Good Luck Right!!
I'm just starting out building. I just built a 3 piece laminate neck using router jigs and sandpaper glued to a flat bench. Can't wait to have the proper tools one day but it gets me by for now
Great video! Looks alone make laminated necks cool, but they are SUPER stable! Even 3 piece is way more stable than 1 or 2. Not that it's a huge deal to have to adjust your neck relief more or less often, but it is a benefit. I have 4 Rickenbacker basses, 3 of which have 3 piece necks (maple/shedua/maple) and 1 has the modern (2010) 2 piece maple neck. The 3 piece necks never need adjustment for climate, and I mean never! My first one, a 1976 4000 which I got in '86 still had the paint dabs on the truss rod nuts/truss rod block from the factory when I got it, I eventually adjusted the neck slightly in the mid 1990s. Just once! I have to adjust the modern neck 4003 a couple of times a year. Another bonus of a laminate is you can probably get 3 necks out of that one glued up blank, so it seems like it might be more efficient use of the wood/less waste. Probably still takes quite a bit more time to do a laminate neck than just using a single piece even considering that, so it's gonna be more expensive, but hey, you get a really stable and cool looking neck! It's a great custom option many people wouldn't think of, we're mainly used to seeing single piece or very subtle 2 piece necks, the contrast really adds a classy look. The thing about a guitar/bass is that you only pay for it once, so to me the more you play it and the longer you own it, the cheaper it is per day to own, so you may as well get what you REALLY want. That's the way I see it, anyway. Keep up the great work, this has become one of my favorite channels, you guys are really entertaining, thanks for all your efforts.
Cool video instruction !!! I am going to buy a bunch of tools like yours and put them in my basement just to look at them in awe even though I don't know how to use them, I can brag to my (few) friends that those are the same tools that the great Texas Toast Guitar Company uses. Always a joy to watch your videos. Best wishes to you.
I took your advice and I'm building a P/J Bass completely from scratch out of some verrry old oak planks (full of worm holes) the pieces weren't thick enough to create a body so I planed them and glued them together to form the body and there was one board long enough to rip into pieces to make a laminate neck and the extra piece I planed down to a 1/4" for my fretboard. I made my own template(s) by using an existing bass I have this project is going to take at least a month but it should be worth it.
Yamaha SGs had a multi laminate neck i had a mid 80s SG1000S and it had a big ding on the neck i tried to fill wth superglue but i sanded through the finish so i had to strip the whole neck! 2 strips of mahogany opposing grain with a centre strip of maple and it was so stable! A set neck mahogany body 1 piece and a 2 piece maple cap with some figure! Yamaha humbuckers with coil splits vol and tone for each! A Les Paul killer!
16:04 That sounds like a solution I'm gathering knowledge for my neck through super access hardtail Strat. Laminate neck sounds really cool. If not I'll probably go with short triangular pocket and three bolts. Maybe it won't break
Hey Matt, Great Video ! Is there a follow up video showing what's next for the multi lam log you glued up! I am assuming you are getting 2 necks from that massive block. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Certainly what I'm doing isn't as precise or attractive, but this is essentially how I'm going about my first scratch build with red oak and poplar from Home Depot. :) I bought a 9-foot length of the straightest flat-sawn oak 1x2 I could find and cut it in thirds. Then I rotated and oriented them for a glue up into a vaguely quartersawn neck blank--all I had to do was clean up the faces with a scraper. The headstock is a piece of 1x4 I scarfed on (13º) after the blank was trued up. The idea (inspired by GGBO) is to see if I even enjoy the work and can do useful things in my garage before spending on better tools and lumber. This project has been so much fun that I'm already planning my next build.
Sounds cool to me man, you got to try it out and see if you like it. I see a lot of people starting out with expensive figured woods... it rarely ends well
If I get a wall-hanger out of it then it will still have been worth the $25 in wood for what I've learned so far. Also, am I overlooking the t-shirt link? Can't seem to find it in the description.
I had some very old reclaimed mahogany and I laminated hard Maple for a through neck. It works great, but I learned that if you laminate hard and softer woods together, you need to shape and sand carefully. Learning is cool.
I have seen this subject done in videos before, but you are so much more entertaining, and I enjoy the guitar history you use. Really enjoy your videos Thanks!
Hey Matt, wish had seen this a year ago. I built a Danelectro 59 DC and used a laminate construction for the neck. In an attempt to stay true to the "keep the cost down" style like the real Dano's, I used as much of the scraps that were already available but for the neck I went all out and picked up wood at a local hardware store. It is a 5 piece neck of Beech/Oak/Beech/Oak/Beech and turned our pretty good. I was foolish enough to try to handplane the Acacia for the fretboard, which was a scrap left over from my neighbors garten rose trellis. It had a about a 2.25" square shape which I chose to plane diagonally in order to have a flat sawn appearance and turned out quite nice,... after I realised I have no chance of ever getting it done by hand and took it to the local cabinatmaker workshop,... on friday afternoon just before closing. At first it was like come back tomorrow, then he asked what it was for and when I told him he literally snatched it out of my hand and immediately planed it down to perfection. Turns out he was "THE" mastercraftsman for the shop and regional guild.(I live in Germany, they are still big on guild's. I should know, being a Metalworking mastercraftsman myself)
I've used local cabinet shops several times over the years for various projects. Most of those guys would be stoked to help knock out a cool project if you are cool and not an inconvenience
I bought some Gibson style necks off eBay years ago... The fellow said they were from the Washburn factory They were in the parts pile for a decade. I pulled them out recently.. Same deal.. Two pieces of quarter sawn mahogany slapped together. No volute needed!
Yes the salt thing works well. The key is not to use too much, just a few grains here and there. Too much could stop things joining quite so well in extreme cases but as all you need are a few grains there's no need to do more.
Nice video. I'm building my 2nd laminate through neck guitar. I use a plane and a sanding board and it takes forever. I nearly cried when I saw how quickly you got everything flat and square. For me, the single hardest part of the build is making the neck blank. Everything after that seems easy by comparison. I am learning a lot by using the hand tools so I am enjoying it.
I used fine beach sand instead of salt. In coastal regions salt tends to attract moisture so I didn't want that to be a factor. I did my scarf joint like that and it worked great.
great info again matt I was planning on making about 30 multi laminate neck through and bolt/set necks out of bubinga, blackwoos, satinbox, roasted flame maple, purple heart ,wenge, walnut and padauk i have and you just verified the entire process to me! i was also planning on putting a veneer in on my scarf joints to give that break and definition. Keep up the good info!
I can confirm that the salt trick really works. I use it all the time. Just a little sprinkle and everything stays in place. Really nice for fretboards.
I could well be mistaken on this; by all means, correct me if that's the case. Rickenbacker started this with their neck-through body basses, which had a padauk center strip laminated between maple strips. You've handled a lot of boards, and know as well as I do that not all quarter-sawn grain was actually initially quarter-sawn; sometimes, the grain orientation of a portion of a flatsawn board appears to be quarter-sawn...it's just a matter of how the growth rings align in a particular spot. At any rate, Yamaha (and probably other Japanese firms) in the late '70s and early '80s started offering this option; I strongly suspect that they had people in their woodshops who had set aside nice pieces of wood that were not large enough on their own to make neck blanks (you have to give the Japanese points for frugality; their entire history and practice of woodworking reflects this ethic), but which could be 're-purposed' for laminate necks. I know that Gibson did neck-through bodies with the Firebirds, and that gave the notion a certain cache, but Gibson did not practice the frugality previously mentioned. Does lamination in this manner make better use of what would have otherwise been scrap? Indubitably. Does it provide better stability than a flatsawn (or even quarter-sawn) solid piece of the same dimensions? Absolutely. Are those points alone enough to justify use of this technique? Damned straight! BTW, I liked your clamp-up procedure.
I'm not sure what Ric did back in the old days. Yes, most of what people call "quarter sawn" is actually just vertical grain lumber by chance. True quarter sawn boards are really few and far between.
So much great info in this video, Matt. "If your dad does it differently, I'm not saying he's wrong." I laughed so stinkin hard at that comment. One last comment. Thx for the info and the massive laughs. Love the show!
great video! as a beginner of making guitars your videos are very instructive. ive got tons of wood stashed maple, mahogany, cherry, mulberry and holly that will be getting glued up for necks and bodies. all im missing is the beloved pin router
Hey Matt … I may have asked the in the past…. can't remember…..on the issue of moisture….. how are you checking the lumber for moisture content (moisture meter ??? if so which one ?) and what is the range that you think is acceptable to build with ????
I really don't know, we are lucky to live in Colorado where it is really dry. We let the wood sit for a long time before we do much with it. Or... go through Guitar Wood Experts
For those of you lamenting the lack of tools etc., to which you have access for your guitar building exploits, I thought I might draw your attention to this fellow: Look up 'Guitar Maker at Dzaleka Refugee Camp, Malawi' on UA-cam. By our standards, some of what he is producing may be crude, but what he displays is a massive drive and ingenuity to overcome the lack of both tools and materials he has at his disposal. I find him somewhat inspirational. 'If you build it, they will come!'
Relish Guitars in Switzerland steam bend their neck blanks to create the headstock angle. The result is super-strong and durable compared to a scarf joint. Needs a damn strong press though.
Yeah sprinkle salt on the pieces just before joining pieces is fine. The abrasive action stops sliding atound and after clamping the salt desolves and doesn't affect the sthrenth of the part but you might find the shop dog licking the wood afterwards.
Thanks Matt, great video as always. Question > Fender style necks: if the fretboard is roughly 1/4"-5-16" can the neck blank be 3/4" to start with since the thickness (with fretboard) at the 12th fret is approx 0.90" ?
Great informative video, thanks! My next design I'm building will have a three piece laminate neck with a 1/3 scarf joint. Pernambuco center piece sandwiched between black Limba. But I'm only going to scarf joint the center pernambuco piece. I don't like the look of scarf joints, that's why I'm only doing the center, but I need it for strength as I'm going for 12 degree angle.
Hey Matt absolutely loved the whole great guitar build off challenge, your guitar is awesome! They all are and the banter and trash talking has been very entertaining, I'm doing a build at the moment and was considering a fabric top as the wood isn't particularly appealing and was wondering if I could use an old favourite t shirt that sadly no longer fits or does it have to be certain type of fabric?
You can do it, if you are interested in more instruction we have lots of videos that are more in depth on our website you can order www.texastoastguitars.com/copy-of-ttg-250-1
Matt. Love watching your videos. Do you have one or are you going to make one on measuring, cutting and clamping a scarf joint? I may never make one but id like to see the right way to do it in case i ever need to. Thanks
Sprinkling a little salt in the glue joint does help a lot. Just a little bit goes a long way. Stops the pieces from sliding past each other when your first getting them clamped up. After a few minutes the water in the glue will dissolve the salt and it’ll be like it was never there and your pieces will be perfectly aligned
For the first half of the video I could feel the eyes of the Dan mask (from Guns and Guitars) burning into my soul :) For some joints - you can DIY a Jointing Board and use a good hand plane to get nice edges to glue up on.
Great video Matt! This was informative as well as educational. I have plans to do a multi-laminated neck on my next build(s) due to the stability and just plain cool looks! I have also heard about the salt and glue trick, have yet to use it but maybe I'll grab a bit of salt to keep in the shop to try it out on my next big glue up. Also, there's something to be said about an ice cold Coors Light, especially on a hot day!
Hi, I enjoy your channel very much. I’ve seen a lot of guitar builders, but I have not seen anyone make a Fender style guitar neck with binding, any reason why? And if there isn’t, why not build a strat style guitar with binding in the neck and body?
Can you make a laminated fretboard with the laminated orientation horizon and not vertical? When you add the radius it may look like an exotic wood grain.
Great video Matt. I'm really enjoying the content you and Chris do. The triple neck was epic. I'm building a Vintage T inspired by an old TV for the #greatguitarbuildoff. Thanks for the great content.
I realize this is an older video but Im curious as to why you didnt make the blank larger if the headstock on the template is bigger than the blank? And thanks for all the great videos.
As always , fantastic video !! Most informative & entertaining !! Do you prefer multi laminate necks or 1 piece necks ? Seems like multi laminates would be stronger in the long run ... Thanks , Matt !!
Nice, this format reminds me of some of your earlier videos. If I'm not mistaken, the T-Models from Peavey had what you call "equal opposite bookmatch". All the ones I have are fine but I saw some that show give a little were the seam was. Btw...missed weenie roller opportunity. You can put a tiny bit of salt, it goes in the direction when you clamp something with a piece of sandpaper to stay in place. BUT...I just read about it, but not actually a reason where it would really help one out. What I missed on the video is about wood species that might not be such a great match for laminate necks. Did you ever make a combination with a very dense, oily, hydrophobic wood and some softer, non-oily, hydrophilic wood? Is that just a matter of using acetone to get rid of some of the oil before glueing and later spraying clear on it? Some like their necks without any finish. What will happen? A bit of information that gets passed around too "not use more than 3 different woods!" I have no clue where that came from and I've seen some with more. I wonder how that came up. I hope you do more videos like this . Offtopic: I don't care about your loudness since I can turn it down a bit. I've got several family members that were louder as well and some friends that are ex-military like yourself and took some damage there. Maybe you'd readjust a little when you can hear yourself better?
What about multi-laminated necks on acoustic guitars with a traditional heel and 15 degree headstock angle? Wondering how this would be done? I have a upcoming project I plan to do one on for a 26” scale bouzouki.
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you. My plan set has zero information on neck profile or shape. Just some basic references to length and width at various points. This would be my first attempt and instrument building. It’s pretty nerve racking with expensive wood.
Hey Matt, from your make a PRS in a day if Paul came to your shop video from couple weeks ago. You mentioned you didn't like PRS Truss Rods, which I don't either. Also you mentioned you have tried a bunch of different ones and have lot of experience and thoughts, I would honestly love to hear why you like the truss rods you like and thoughts on others.
Hi Jeff, I actually like the PRS truss rod quite a bit. What I'm not a fan of is making my own truss rods and that is what I would have to do if I decided to use them.
I have a Warmoth, roasted ash, G5 bass body. This has a deluxe neck pocket. Warmoth took three and a half months to send the body. The body smells like burned wood and is very light. My luthier was going to build me a flat sawn roasted maple neck with titanium bars in it. Well, he had a finger accident and is getting reconstructive surgery. Like Warmoth, I am looking at another three and a half months waiting on my luthier. Can I send my body, headstock template, truss rod and titanium bars to you for a neck build? Yes, I want threaded inserts. Do you have a build page?
I've always loved and appreciated laminate necks for a variety of reasons. EKO used to do some beautiful laminate necks back when EKO made some interesting guitars. The only scarf joints that I don't want to see are the typical scarf joints you see on the cheaper guitars. I've just seen too many of those break at that point. In theory, they shouldn't...but they do...too often. I'll spend the extra $10 for a neck that doesn't have a scarf joint (I'm going with the _cheap_ guitars here...third world, jungle sweat shops, political prisoner/slave labor etc...not naming any countries...or Big European distributor house brand...in particular.)
@@arodrigues14 ...why...no... not at al.... maybe... I mean think of it this way. If they can _retail_ an entire guitar...and not a bad one by any stretch... for about $200 (or less). Then how much could it possibly cost them to produce a non-scarf joint neck as standard?
Hi, great video as usual, thanks for all this content and discussion that you bring us. My question is about the type of glue to use when building a composite neck blank. I am just about to make one and I have heard that epoxy might be better than Tite Bond because it doesn't introduce moisture to the carefully dried wood. I have had so many problems with carefully made necks later warping, twisting, relaxing in a way that the truss rod can't correct, so I have become super sensitised to this issue. Would be interested to hear your thoughts.
I never use epoxy... not saying it is better or worse then anything else but I have just never seen the need. Wood moves for a few reasons moisture coming in or going out is one way, there are even some milling operations that, I hear, stress the lumber. There is lots of information online about this kind of thing.
Epoxy is useful in situations where the moisture in wood glue could be a problem???? In general, use epoxy were you are using thin wood to create binding like lines or stacked laminations in a body or neck. My rule is if you need to use lots of wood glue in a single assembly then you should consider switching to a slow set epoxy. I have never seen this advice online "too much wood glue at one time in a single guitar assembly is a moisture problem". Matts neck lam was a lot of glue but the wood thickness was enough to absorb and transfer that moisture. But that would changes if he started adding thin veneer strips between each piece of wood. Each glue line no matter what the thickness needs almost the same amount of glue. So you can see where this may be a problem. Epoxy is a chemical bond which needs no other interaction with the wood to cure. It will harden if it is mixed correctly. Epoxy takes time to prepare before gluing and who wants to do that rather than squeeze a glue bottle and add a clamp. Not to mention wearing gloves to keep your hands from getting sticky. I guess if you live in a humid jungle and dont use an AC in your shop, by all means use epoxy for everything.
I enjoy the quarter measurement idea. "How shall we divide things up?" "Quarters!" "Ok boss." Time passes... "er boss, this bit's more than an inch..." "That's 5 quarters then, peon!" "Ooookay"
Yes, sprinkle a small pinch of salt or sand between things you want to glue and the will indent the wood of each side and stop it from sliding on the glue.
Hi Donnie I do carve the necks with a volute... unless the customer askes for the neck without and I remember. It isn't really adding a volute as much as it is not taking away material in that area.
Kinda depends on the wood species and dimensions, where you live etc. Most lumber is kiln dried, are you doing your own milling or starting with wood from a mill?
I think it would be particularly helpful and interesting to carry on with your neck blank that you just glued up and take it through the truss rod installation and fretboard glue up. Well at least it'd be interesting to me cuz that's where I'm at! Cheers, Bruce
Hey Matt,I'm doing a laminet neck right now.How would I go about doing the back angle?I'm thinking of putting a 4 degree angle on the heel joint of the neck,Is this correct? Not sure about this.
I have a jazz Ibanez that has mahogany/maple/mahogany neck and the scarf joint is only on the headstock where it becomes full. In this case was to save material as the heel is 3 piece mahogany glued on to the 3 piece neck. Is that headstock joint just to bulk it up or is it structural?
Skunk Stripe is the result of having a one piece neck ( including the fret board ) and installing a truss rod. The stripe covers the rout for the truss rod to fit in. In a multi piece neck ( or even 1 piece plus a fret board ) the rout for the truss rod is hidden when the fret board is installed.
Hey Matt, if I have some 3/4" boards that have twisted a bit, would laminating 3 or 4 of them, then squaring the whole of it be worth the effort to reclaim this otherwise junk wood?
Laminate necks are cool. One of the first guitars I bought my son was a pawn shop German made Framus with a neck that was made up of many thin pieces of wood laminated together. Kind of like the newish Martin necks. Indestructible. Your GGBO guitar is over $7K. Congrats. BTW, when I google "triple neck electric sex machine" I get all sorts of strange stuff in the search results...just sayin'.
But if the wood relax downwards and you glue it next to the same piece so it relax upwards, wouldn't the torque tend to twist a neck or is the torque negligible against the strength of the finished neck? I love those videos by the way! Have you ever considered selling necks? Not having your skills I had to order one from Warmoth and liked having options when it comes to tuner holes and fretwire. Who knows, if I ever assemble a guitar in the future it could have a TTG neck or body
I think the worst thing my old high school ever did was take the woodshop out. I spent countless hours in that shop. It proved to be priceless to me. Anyway I used to be able to hand over pieces to them I needed help with and they would return it absolutely perfect. I was even privy to some of their wood at times. WIn win for both of us. I miss that shop
It's a shame a lot of useful things have been taken out of schools...and been replaced by a lot of useless things.
I agree Joe, shop class is an important part missing from modern education
Great video! Laminating without lots of tools: A largish scrap slab of granite or similar and contact glue sand paper on it and lap each piece until they're did flat. It's not as horrible as it seems
Get relatively close with hand planes, then lap on the slab (which most of these countertop places have huge waste bins of the stuff they have to haul off they're usually happy to give out a piece or two of remnants)
My Epiphone Sheraton from the 70's has a five piece neck - still the best neck on any guitar I own.
I’m a drummer and I love watching this channel, partially for the woodworking but mainly because I love Matt’s candour and style!
Thanks man I try to have fun with it
Thank you for sharing your experience
Happy to help JJ
This is exactly the video I was looking for, thank you so much for posting this!!!!!!
Yep watch what i do with this cherry and maple, after your education, thanks again!! learning everyday!!
I do like those woods
@@TexasToastGuitars I'm sure you have used by now, but the salt does work pretty good. Especially when you don't have enough or the proper clamps, LOL My Shop Dust collection done, video up, I will be testing the pin router collection on it this weekend. Good Luck Right!!
I'm just starting out building. I just built a 3 piece laminate neck using router jigs and sandpaper glued to a flat bench. Can't wait to have the proper tools one day but it gets me by for now
You just have to keep on rocking Rich
Great video!
Looks alone make laminated necks cool, but they are SUPER stable! Even 3 piece is way more stable than 1 or 2. Not that it's a huge deal to have to adjust your neck relief more or less often, but it is a benefit.
I have 4 Rickenbacker basses, 3 of which have 3 piece necks (maple/shedua/maple) and 1 has the modern (2010) 2 piece maple neck. The 3 piece necks never need adjustment for climate, and I mean never! My first one, a 1976 4000 which I got in '86 still had the paint dabs on the truss rod nuts/truss rod block from the factory when I got it, I eventually adjusted the neck slightly in the mid 1990s. Just once!
I have to adjust the modern neck 4003 a couple of times a year.
Another bonus of a laminate is you can probably get 3 necks out of that one glued up blank, so it seems like it might be more efficient use of the wood/less waste.
Probably still takes quite a bit more time to do a laminate neck than just using a single piece even considering that, so it's gonna be more expensive, but hey, you get a really stable and cool looking neck!
It's a great custom option many people wouldn't think of, we're mainly used to seeing single piece or very subtle 2 piece necks, the contrast really adds a classy look.
The thing about a guitar/bass is that you only pay for it once, so to me the more you play it and the longer you own it, the cheaper it is per day to own, so you may as well get what you REALLY want.
That's the way I see it, anyway.
Keep up the great work, this has become one of my favorite channels, you guys are really entertaining, thanks for all your efforts.
Thanks for watching my friend, glad to hear you are enjoying the videos
Great video. Love the history lesson at the beginning. I hear Chris’s beard is attached with a salted scarf joint.
People love Matt's boring history lessons HAHAHA
Cool video instruction !!! I am going to buy a bunch of tools like yours and put them in my basement just to look at them in awe even though I don't know how to use them, I can brag to my (few) friends that those are the same tools that the great Texas Toast Guitar Company uses. Always a joy to watch your videos. Best wishes to you.
You can jump in and start using them too my friend, you are so smart
Most Norlin mid-seventies Gibsons had the 3 pc. lam. neck, as does my '76 ES-175. I always liked the volutes, also.
Me too JJ
I took your advice and I'm building a P/J Bass completely from scratch out of some verrry old oak planks (full of worm holes) the pieces weren't thick enough to create a body so I planed them and glued them together to form the body and there was one board long enough to rip into pieces to make a laminate neck and the extra piece I planed down to a 1/4" for my fretboard. I made my own template(s) by using an existing bass I have this project is going to take at least a month but it should be worth it.
Yamaha SGs had a multi laminate neck i had a mid 80s SG1000S and it had a big ding on the neck i tried to fill wth superglue but i sanded through the finish so i had to strip the whole neck! 2 strips of mahogany opposing grain with a centre strip of maple and it was so stable! A set neck mahogany body 1 piece and a 2 piece maple cap with some figure! Yamaha humbuckers with coil splits vol and tone for each! A Les Paul killer!
Totally cool guitars too
16:04
That sounds like a solution
I'm gathering knowledge for my neck through super access hardtail Strat.
Laminate neck sounds really cool. If not I'll probably go with short triangular pocket and three bolts. Maybe it won't break
I spent a lot of time at a small cabinet shop called Straight Edge Woodworking, the owner was really cool.
@@TexasToastGuitars Twelve pack of beer and cabinet shop sounds to me better than a party
Hey Matt, Great Video ! Is there a follow up video showing what's next for the multi lam log you glued up! I am assuming you are getting 2 necks from that massive block. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Certainly what I'm doing isn't as precise or attractive, but this is essentially how I'm going about my first scratch build with red oak and poplar from Home Depot. :) I bought a 9-foot length of the straightest flat-sawn oak 1x2 I could find and cut it in thirds. Then I rotated and oriented them for a glue up into a vaguely quartersawn neck blank--all I had to do was clean up the faces with a scraper. The headstock is a piece of 1x4 I scarfed on (13º) after the blank was trued up. The idea (inspired by GGBO) is to see if I even enjoy the work and can do useful things in my garage before spending on better tools and lumber. This project has been so much fun that I'm already planning my next build.
Sounds cool to me man, you got to try it out and see if you like it. I see a lot of people starting out with expensive figured woods... it rarely ends well
If I get a wall-hanger out of it then it will still have been worth the $25 in wood for what I've learned so far.
Also, am I overlooking the t-shirt link? Can't seem to find it in the description.
Matt, this is great. When you had glue everywhere...that real LOL. Really enjoy your channel.
Glad you enjoyed it
I had some very old reclaimed mahogany and I laminated hard Maple for a through neck. It works great, but I learned that if you laminate hard and softer woods together, you need to shape and sand carefully. Learning is cool.
You got that right Don
Again a fine lesson!!! Good to follow for a Dutchie like me!!
Thanks Tino 😃
WHEN. WILL You guys do another builders class in house?
I'm glad I found your videos. Thanks for all your work. You're a great teacher.
Glad you like them my friend
Since I’m very smart and do it myself I like to use a roller paint brush to apply glue. Even coverage and quicker
Great tip!
@@TexasToastGuitars
Your lack of weenie-roller use is disturbing.^^
Search your feelings!
Hey from the UK Matt! Hope you’re recovering sir! Yes, salt works if you work quickly - if you’d used some you wouldn’t have got that wiggle!
I have seen this subject done in videos before, but you are so much more entertaining, and I enjoy the guitar history you use. Really enjoy your videos Thanks!
Thanks Dan glad to hear it brotherman
Hey Matt, wish had seen this a year ago. I built a Danelectro 59 DC and used a laminate construction for the neck. In an attempt to stay true to the "keep the cost down" style like the real Dano's, I used as much of the scraps that were already available but for the neck I went all out and picked up wood at a local hardware store. It is a 5 piece neck of Beech/Oak/Beech/Oak/Beech and turned our pretty good. I was foolish enough to try to handplane the Acacia for the fretboard, which was a scrap left over from my neighbors garten rose trellis. It had a about a 2.25" square shape which I chose to plane diagonally in order to have a flat sawn appearance and turned out quite nice,... after I realised I have no chance of ever getting it done by hand and took it to the local cabinatmaker workshop,... on friday afternoon just before closing. At first it was like come back tomorrow, then he asked what it was for and when I told him he literally snatched it out of my hand and immediately planed it down to perfection. Turns out he was "THE" mastercraftsman for the shop and regional guild.(I live in Germany, they are still big on guild's. I should know, being a Metalworking mastercraftsman myself)
The translated titles sound weird^^. Alles, Meista, alles. Ecka-art die Russen sind da!
Wo hockst du denn?
@@onpsxmember Fränsem, wie immer.
Glad to hear man, I hope you made it worth his while with some beers HAHAHA
Pieces can be sanded flat on sand paper that is "glued" or secured to a flat surface, like a flat piece of ceramic tile.
Totally
I've used local cabinet shops several times over the years for various projects. Most of those guys would be stoked to help knock out a cool project if you are cool and not an inconvenience
That is my experience too Brett
I bought some Gibson style necks off eBay years ago... The fellow said they were from the Washburn factory They were in the parts pile for a decade. I pulled them out recently.. Same deal.. Two pieces of quarter sawn mahogany slapped together. No volute needed!
Sounds like some cool necks
Yes the salt thing works well. The key is not to use too much, just a few grains here and there. Too much could stop things joining quite so well in extreme cases but as all you need are a few grains there's no need to do more.
Good to know
Nice video. I'm building my 2nd laminate through neck guitar. I use a plane and a sanding board and it takes forever. I nearly cried when I saw how quickly you got everything flat and square. For me, the single hardest part of the build is making the neck blank. Everything after that seems easy by comparison. I am learning a lot by using the hand tools so I am enjoying it.
Adding power really does speed things up, you are making moves... I like your style
@@TexasToastGuitars Haha, thanks :)
Love it!!! I'm making one with maple and purple heart right now. Through body neck.
Sounds cool man
I used fine beach sand instead of salt. In coastal regions salt tends to attract moisture so I didn't want that to be a factor. I did my scarf joint like that and it worked great.
Cool man, glad to hear it works
Yes, salt works, definitely try it out.I used it glue up my new workbench worktops (2x 18mm ply)
Good to know!
thank you
great info again matt I was planning on making about 30 multi laminate neck through and bolt/set necks out of bubinga, blackwoos, satinbox, roasted flame maple, purple heart ,wenge, walnut and padauk i have and you just verified the entire process to me! i was also planning on putting a veneer in on my scarf joints to give that break and definition. Keep up the good info!
Cool idea
@@TexasToastGuitars cheers I just want to give them plenty of time to settle and, then can pick out ones in my own time for builds.
I can confirm that the salt trick really works. I use it all the time. Just a little sprinkle and everything stays in place. Really nice for fretboards.
Great tip!
I could well be mistaken on this; by all means, correct me if that's the case. Rickenbacker started this with their neck-through body basses, which had a padauk center strip laminated between maple strips. You've handled a lot of boards, and know as well as I do that not all quarter-sawn grain was actually initially quarter-sawn; sometimes, the grain orientation of a portion of a flatsawn board appears to be quarter-sawn...it's just a matter of how the growth rings align in a particular spot. At any rate, Yamaha (and probably other Japanese firms) in the late '70s and early '80s started offering this option; I strongly suspect that they had people in their woodshops who had set aside nice pieces of wood that were not large enough on their own to make neck blanks (you have to give the Japanese points for frugality; their entire history and practice of woodworking reflects this ethic), but which could be 're-purposed' for laminate necks. I know that Gibson did neck-through bodies with the Firebirds, and that gave the notion a certain cache, but Gibson did not practice the frugality previously mentioned. Does lamination in this manner make better use of what would have otherwise been scrap? Indubitably. Does it provide better stability than a flatsawn (or even quarter-sawn) solid piece of the same dimensions? Absolutely. Are those points alone enough to justify use of this technique? Damned straight!
BTW, I liked your clamp-up procedure.
I'm not sure what Ric did back in the old days.
Yes, most of what people call "quarter sawn" is actually just vertical grain lumber by chance.
True quarter sawn boards are really few and far between.
So much great info in this video, Matt. "If your dad does it differently, I'm not saying he's wrong." I laughed so stinkin hard at that comment. One last comment. Thx for the info and the massive laughs. Love the show!
HAHAHA glad you enjoyed it brougham
great video! as a beginner of making guitars your videos are very instructive. ive got tons of wood stashed maple, mahogany, cherry, mulberry and holly that will be getting glued up for necks and bodies. all im missing is the beloved pin router
The pin router is a great tool for sure. I only use it for the truss rod on necks
Hey Matt … I may have asked the in the past…. can't remember…..on the issue of moisture….. how are you checking the lumber for moisture content (moisture meter ??? if so which one ?) and what is the range that you think is acceptable to build with ????
I really don't know, we are lucky to live in Colorado where it is really dry. We let the wood sit for a long time before we do much with it. Or... go through Guitar Wood Experts
I wish you had shown how to make the scarf joint
We might do that one day
Great vid! Thanks. Like the elf on your shelf by the snack mix. Lol
Thanks my friend
For those of you lamenting the lack of tools etc., to which you have access for your guitar building exploits, I thought I might draw your attention to this fellow:
Look up 'Guitar Maker at Dzaleka Refugee Camp, Malawi' on UA-cam. By our standards, some of what he is producing may be crude, but what he displays is a massive drive and ingenuity to overcome the lack of both tools and materials he has at his disposal. I find him somewhat inspirational. 'If you build it, they will come!'
Check it out y'all
you're right, it looks so cool !! Do you think you can make a long multilaminate neck and glue the wings to make a les paul?
I don't see why not
Texas Toast Guitars next video..🤣🤣
Great video explaining this matt.
Thanks Terry
Good video
Relish Guitars in Switzerland steam bend their neck blanks to create the headstock angle. The result is super-strong and durable compared to a scarf joint. Needs a damn strong press though.
That sounds cool
@@TexasToastGuitars check this out ua-cam.com/video/-731OLDvj0I/v-deo.html
Yeah sprinkle salt on the pieces just before joining pieces is fine. The abrasive action stops sliding atound and after clamping the salt desolves and doesn't affect the sthrenth of the part but you might find the shop dog licking the wood afterwards.
That's what I hear
Thanks Matt, great video as always. Question > Fender style necks: if the fretboard is roughly 1/4"-5-16" can the neck blank be 3/4" to start with since the thickness (with fretboard) at the 12th fret is approx 0.90" ?
That sounds perfect to me my friend
Great video. I really love all of your content.
I appreciate that Terry
Great informative video, thanks! My next design I'm building will have a three piece laminate neck with a 1/3 scarf joint. Pernambuco center piece sandwiched between black Limba. But I'm only going to scarf joint the center pernambuco piece. I don't like the look of scarf joints, that's why I'm only doing the center, but I need it for strength as I'm going for 12 degree angle.
Sounds cool John
Hey Matt absolutely loved the whole great guitar build off challenge, your guitar is awesome! They all are and the banter and trash talking has been very entertaining, I'm doing a build at the moment and was considering a fabric top as the wood isn't particularly appealing and was wondering if I could use an old favourite t shirt that sadly no longer fits or does it have to be certain type of fabric?
Thanks Alan, we have done a few shirts on guitars
@@TexasToastGuitars excellent I'll give it a go, the Mrs wants me to bin it but putting on a guitar and keeping it forever is a much better idea!
Loved the 12 pack beer hint!
It really really works
Cool video, I need to try building a neck now! I wish my clamps were as well behaved as yours.
glue ups are tricky when the clamps don't cooperate, I feel your pain Brian
Good stuff, you guys almost got me convinced to try a neck. Found you guys from the GGBO.
You can do it, if you are interested in more instruction we have lots of videos that are more in depth on our website you can order www.texastoastguitars.com/copy-of-ttg-250-1
Matt. Love watching your videos. Do you have one or are you going to make one on measuring, cutting and clamping a scarf joint? I may never make one but id like to see the right way to do it in case i ever need to. Thanks
Maybe, we don't really use scarf joints anymore but it could be a good video
Awesome Matt!
Thanks for watching brotherman
Sprinkling a little salt in the glue joint does help a lot. Just a little bit goes a long way. Stops the pieces from sliding past each other when your first getting them clamped up. After a few minutes the water in the glue will dissolve the salt and it’ll be like it was never there and your pieces will be perfectly aligned
YMMV
For the first half of the video I could feel the eyes of the Dan mask (from Guns and Guitars) burning into my soul :)
For some joints - you can DIY a Jointing Board and use a good hand plane to get nice edges to glue up on.
Cool man, lots of great ways to do it
Cool video, really interesting to see the process of how certain parts of a guitar are built .👍👍😊
Thanks for watching David
Great video Matt, very helpful!
Thanks Steve
Great video Matt! This was informative as well as educational. I have plans to do a multi-laminated neck on my next build(s) due to the stability and just plain cool looks! I have also heard about the salt and glue trick, have yet to use it but maybe I'll grab a bit of salt to keep in the shop to try it out on my next big glue up. Also, there's something to be said about an ice cold Coors Light, especially on a hot day!
Thanks Lloyd give the salt thing a try and see if you dig it... let me know and we can have one of those cold beers
Hi, I enjoy your channel very much. I’ve seen a lot of guitar builders, but I have not seen anyone make a Fender style guitar neck with binding, any reason why? And if there isn’t, why not build a strat style guitar with binding in the neck and body?
Hi Ruben, we build Fender style neck with binding all the time
Can you make a laminated fretboard with the laminated orientation horizon and not vertical? When you add the radius it may look like an exotic wood grain.
Ben Crowe did something like that recently
I got the idea for the Richlite website.
can we see the neck carve next? I`ve an SG body I built years ago that I`ve dug out recently & I`d like to make my own neck for it,
We have done a few neck carving videos but we could do more
Great stuff! I may be doing a laminated neck thru for my next build, good timing on the video for me 👍
Go for it brougham
Great video Matt. I'm really enjoying the content you and Chris do. The triple neck was epic. I'm building a Vintage T inspired by an old TV for the #greatguitarbuildoff. Thanks for the great content.
Cool man, thanks for watching
Nice Realistic STA-64 in the background ta boot!
I realize this is an older video but Im curious as to why you didnt make the blank larger if the headstock on the template is bigger than the blank? And thanks for all the great videos.
As always , fantastic video !! Most informative & entertaining !! Do you prefer multi laminate necks or 1 piece necks ? Seems like multi laminates would be stronger in the long run ... Thanks , Matt !!
I actually prefer one piece necks if I can get the right woods
So did you start with Harbor Freight clamps then switch to Home Depot?
Lots of people sell Bessey clamps
Nice, this format reminds me of some of your earlier videos. If I'm not mistaken, the T-Models from Peavey had what you call "equal opposite bookmatch". All the ones I have are fine but I saw some that show give a little were the seam was. Btw...missed weenie roller opportunity. You can put a tiny bit of salt, it goes in the direction when you clamp something with a piece of sandpaper to stay in place. BUT...I just read about it, but not actually a reason where it would really help one out. What I missed on the video is about wood species that might not be such a great match for laminate necks. Did you ever make a combination with a very dense, oily, hydrophobic wood and some softer, non-oily, hydrophilic wood? Is that just a matter of using acetone to get rid of some of the oil before glueing and later spraying clear on it? Some like their necks without any finish. What will happen? A bit of information that gets passed around too "not use more than 3 different woods!" I have no clue where that came from and I've seen some with more. I wonder how that came up.
I hope you do more videos like this .
Offtopic: I don't care about your loudness since I can turn it down a bit. I've got several family members that were louder as well and some friends that are ex-military like yourself and took some damage there. Maybe you'd readjust a little when you can hear yourself better?
Totally missed the wienie roller opportunity
Can you do this thicker laminate in the vacuum bag?
You sure can
What about multi-laminated necks on acoustic guitars with a traditional heel and 15 degree headstock angle? Wondering how this would be done? I have a upcoming project I plan to do one on for a 26” scale bouzouki.
You could do it the exact same way and use more wood or utilize some kind of scarf joint
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you. My plan set has zero information on neck profile or shape. Just some basic references to length and width at various points. This would be my first attempt and instrument building. It’s pretty nerve racking with expensive wood.
Hey Matt, from your make a PRS in a day if Paul came to your shop video from couple weeks ago. You mentioned you didn't like PRS Truss Rods, which I don't either. Also you mentioned you have tried a bunch of different ones and have lot of experience and thoughts, I would honestly love to hear why you like the truss rods you like and thoughts on others.
Hi Jeff, I actually like the PRS truss rod quite a bit. What I'm not a fan of is making my own truss rods and that is what I would have to do if I decided to use them.
I have a Warmoth, roasted ash, G5 bass body. This has a deluxe neck pocket. Warmoth took three and a half months to send the body. The body smells like burned wood and is very light. My luthier was going to build me a flat sawn roasted maple neck with titanium bars in it. Well, he had a finger accident and is getting reconstructive surgery. Like Warmoth, I am looking at another
three and a half months waiting on my luthier. Can I send my body, headstock template, truss rod and titanium bars to you for a neck build? Yes, I want threaded inserts. Do you have a build page?
Sure man, send me an email and we can talk about it
Are those clamps going to leave dents?
Yes, however, all that stuff will get cut off
I've always loved and appreciated laminate necks for a variety of reasons. EKO used to do some beautiful laminate necks back when EKO made some interesting guitars.
The only scarf joints that I don't want to see are the typical scarf joints you see on the cheaper guitars. I've just seen too many of those break at that point. In theory, they shouldn't...but they do...too often. I'll spend the extra $10 for a neck that doesn't have a scarf joint (I'm going with the _cheap_ guitars here...third world, jungle sweat shops, political prisoner/slave labor etc...not naming any countries...or Big European distributor house brand...in particular.)
I pretty much abandoned the scarf joint
I think I know what brand you're talking about… HB, right?
@@arodrigues14 ...why...no... not at al.... maybe...
I mean think of it this way. If they can _retail_ an entire guitar...and not a bad one by any stretch... for about $200 (or less). Then how much could it possibly cost them to produce a non-scarf joint neck as standard?
@@ravenslaves I'm a bit of a HB fanboy, but I understand what you're saying.
Hey Loud Mouth! Good job 👏
Thanks man
Texas Toast Guitars , that’s what my wife calls me 🤐
Hi, great video as usual, thanks for all this content and discussion that you bring us. My question is about the type of glue to use when building a composite neck blank. I am just about to make one and I have heard that epoxy might be better than Tite Bond because it doesn't introduce moisture to the carefully dried wood. I have had so many problems with carefully made necks later warping, twisting, relaxing in a way that the truss rod can't correct, so I have become super sensitised to this issue. Would be interested to hear your thoughts.
I never use epoxy... not saying it is better or worse then anything else but I have just never seen the need.
Wood moves for a few reasons moisture coming in or going out is one way, there are even some milling operations that, I hear, stress the lumber. There is lots of information online about this kind of thing.
Epoxy is useful in situations where the moisture in wood glue could be a problem????
In general, use epoxy were you are using thin wood to create binding like lines or stacked laminations in a body or neck. My rule is if you need to use lots of wood glue in a single assembly then you should consider switching to a slow set epoxy. I have never seen this advice online "too much wood glue at one time in a single guitar assembly is a moisture problem".
Matts neck lam was a lot of glue but the wood thickness was enough to absorb and transfer that moisture. But that would changes if he started adding thin veneer strips between each piece of wood. Each glue line no matter what the thickness needs almost the same amount of glue. So you can see where this may be a problem.
Epoxy is a chemical bond which needs no other interaction with the wood to cure. It will harden if it is mixed correctly.
Epoxy takes time to prepare before gluing and who wants to do that rather than squeeze a glue bottle and add a clamp. Not to mention wearing gloves to keep your hands from getting sticky. I guess if you live in a humid jungle and dont use an AC in your shop, by all means use epoxy for everything.
next video scarf joint
Saludos desde Argentina
We'll see what we can do
@@TexasToastGuitars gracias
Did you just tell people to show up at your place on a Friday afternoon with a 12-pack?
I did not HAHAHA
Well, call first
@@TexasToastGuitars See ya Friday at 4:30 with an 18 pack of Coors Light tall boys. I need a mahogany body thickness planed. LOL.
I enjoy the quarter measurement idea.
"How shall we divide things up?"
"Quarters!"
"Ok boss."
Time passes...
"er boss, this bit's more than an inch..."
"That's 5 quarters then, peon!"
"Ooookay"
Kinda weird right
If you buy wood, measure it. There's often less thickness than advertised. Pay only for what you get.
@@onpsxmember I think it's because they're listing the sizes before the wood is planed. So you'll naturally lose some.
@@ChrisFranklyn
They often just call it good or some is misplaced if it's sorted in bins.
Yes, sprinkle a small pinch of salt or sand between things you want to glue and the will indent the wood of each side and stop it from sliding on the glue.
Do you add a volute to your neck/headstock
Hi Donnie
I do carve the necks with a volute... unless the customer askes for the neck without and I remember.
It isn't really adding a volute as much as it is not taking away material in that area.
How long does wood need in order to dry?
Kinda depends on the wood species and dimensions, where you live etc.
Most lumber is kiln dried, are you doing your own milling or starting with wood from a mill?
Splendid I enjoyed that, I'm a deaf old bastard so keep up the loud ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🔊
Thanks Mark
That's a great vid.
Thanks Avi
I think it would be particularly helpful and interesting to carry on with your neck blank that you just glued up and take it through the truss rod installation and fretboard glue up. Well at least it'd be interesting to me cuz that's where I'm at! Cheers, Bruce
That is a good idea Bruce, maybe we will do that
Awesome
Thanks for watching brotherman
What is your opinion of headless guitars? Have you made them?
I have made 2 and I think they are neat
What about Spruce or Pine for a neck?
Neither of those would be my first choice... However, it has been done before
Hey Matt,I'm doing a laminet neck right now.How would I go about doing the back angle?I'm thinking of putting a 4 degree angle on the heel joint of the neck,Is this correct? Not sure about this.
we could do a video like that, 4 degrees is pretty close for a LP, we use 2.2 for our guitars with TOM bridges
I have a jazz Ibanez that has mahogany/maple/mahogany neck and the scarf joint is only on the headstock where it becomes full. In this case was to save material as the heel is 3 piece mahogany glued on to the 3 piece neck. Is that headstock joint just to bulk it up or is it structural?
If I had to guess... and I would... I'd say it is done to use less material but it is also structural
Texas Toast Guitars thanks. And keep up with the loudmouthing! 🤘
Hey Matt, can you speak up a bit. Love the great info you put out.
Working on it Simon :)
No mention of the skunk stripe?
Skunk Stripe is the result of having a one piece neck ( including the fret board ) and installing a truss rod. The stripe covers the rout for the truss rod to fit in. In a multi piece neck ( or even 1 piece plus a fret board ) the rout for the truss rod is hidden when the fret board is installed.
What would you like to know about skunk stripes?
I figured that since your tutorial was so complete maybe a mention of the skunk stripe design which is kinda a laminate neck would be appropriate.
Hey Matt, if I have some 3/4" boards that have twisted a bit, would laminating 3 or 4 of them, then squaring the whole of it be worth the effort to reclaim this otherwise junk wood?
I would not recommend using twisted lumber for necks
I need to get y'all to build me a neck like that for a lp double cut I'm about to build
Sure man
Laminate necks are cool. One of the first guitars I bought my son was a pawn shop German made Framus with a neck that was made up of many thin pieces of wood laminated together. Kind of like the newish Martin necks. Indestructible. Your GGBO guitar is over $7K. Congrats. BTW, when I google "triple neck electric sex machine" I get all sorts of strange stuff in the search results...just sayin'.
Nice guitars Framus....
I'll take your word for it on that Google search HAHAHA
But if the wood relax downwards and you glue it next to the same piece so it relax upwards, wouldn't the torque tend to twist a neck or is the torque negligible against the strength of the finished neck? I love those videos by the way! Have you ever considered selling necks? Not having your skills I had to order one from Warmoth and liked having options when it comes to tuner holes and fretwire. Who knows, if I ever assemble a guitar in the future it could have a TTG neck or body
We sell necks all the time Dan
@@TexasToastGuitars My bad, I should really check your website then!