I got a Orange 10 for Christmas but not had a chance to do much with it so I’ve been watching videos and learning some. Found this video and found it very informative so a big thanks there. Got questions I hope you can answer... The item prints upside down so any hollow spaces drain with each additional layer until a final layer closes that void. It is my assumption that the void is not full of resin and contains only a thin coating on the inside walls similar to what is on the outside of the model. You put drain holes in the bottom. Why? You can’t drain anything until the print is complete and there is very little to drain. If you do not add drain holes then you will have an enclosed space permanently seal with a title resin in it. Why is that a problem? With the drain holes, to me, it seems the rinsing baths would be minimally effective at rinsing out the resin. So, just have enclosed voids and not worry about it. ??? Also, does the UV light penetrate the item curing the full wall thickness (and the hollow space inside) or does it just cure what it shines on? Hope my questions make sense and you can straighten out where I am mistaken. Thanks!
So you can put the drain holes anywhere I just put them someplace they wouldn't be visible when it's done. If you're using ChiTuBox it does also print the plugs for you so it's quite possible to stick those plugs into the holes in finished print after it's done curing. So if you don't put holes and the walls are thick the uv light will not be able to penetrate all the way through, then you've got liquid resin trapped in there, which could be dangerous if the model breaks and that leaks out onto someone's skin. Not to mention it's a waste of money to not pour that back in the vat. The UV will penetrate a few mm, but not if the walls are too thick. As for the rinsing getting in the holes, no real worries there. The alcohol will get in. Plus the main point of the rinsing is so it looks nice when it's done. Nobody cares what the inside looks like.
Really interesting video, Phil! Back when I was doing CAD, we only did the modeling. Another group took care of the printing and clean-up so those aspects were all new to me. Also, our software was nowhere as nice, or as fast as what you're using. My jaw dropped when all your supports were done for you. You kids these days have it too easy!
Honestly I pretty much stopped using it after I got a mono printer. The mono screen is so much faster and better detail. I've reviewed some other printers on my channel you might like. Right now I'm mostly using the Epax E6.
@@3DJapan Will do it, but the problem is I can't find where I could download latest Longerware. I checked the current version and it is 1.33. Could like pass me a link to the software or smth?
Do you have that ChiTu folder? Have you tried searching for _Orange10.cfg? That's all I can guess other than making sure you have the latest version of Longerware installed from the website.
@@3DJapan yup all i needed to install last version of firmware and now i have it thanks.. but during the print on lcd screen doesnt show me the layer it makes only the full picture of model
your lucky when i hit generate the supports it closes the program and I can open a file but it will not save it to the micro card so I can not get it to the printer, so looks like I just wasted my 229.
Which program doesn't generate supports? ChiTuBox? Sorry I can't help with that but it's a very popular program so maybe a web search will get you a solution.
@@3DJapan no longerware , so when its edited in chi tubox and i have to go back to longerware I cant even save it to the sd card to get it to the printer, your video helped me so much getting it this far thank you
Update: I did try the technique of painting resin into the holes. It took a couple of coats but it worked perfectly.
I have watched a lot of videos about the Orange 10. I got more good information from yours than all the others. Thanks
Thanks, glad you liked it.
I can’t stress enough how helpful this video was, thank you! 👌🏻
This was helpful, thanks for posting it!
Glad you liked it.
I got a Orange 10 for Christmas but not had a chance to do much with it so I’ve been watching videos and learning some. Found this video and found it very informative so a big thanks there. Got questions I hope you can answer... The item prints upside down so any hollow spaces drain with each additional layer until a final layer closes that void. It is my assumption that the void is not full of resin and contains only a thin coating on the inside walls similar to what is on the outside of the model. You put drain holes in the bottom. Why? You can’t drain anything until the print is complete and there is very little to drain. If you do not add drain holes then you will have an enclosed space permanently seal with a title resin in it. Why is that a problem? With the drain holes, to me, it seems the rinsing baths would be minimally effective at rinsing out the resin. So, just have enclosed voids and not worry about it. ??? Also, does the UV light penetrate the item curing the full wall thickness (and the hollow space inside) or does it just cure what it shines on? Hope my questions make sense and you can straighten out where I am mistaken. Thanks!
So you can put the drain holes anywhere I just put them someplace they wouldn't be visible when it's done. If you're using ChiTuBox it does also print the plugs for you so it's quite possible to stick those plugs into the holes in finished print after it's done curing. So if you don't put holes and the walls are thick the uv light will not be able to penetrate all the way through, then you've got liquid resin trapped in there, which could be dangerous if the model breaks and that leaks out onto someone's skin. Not to mention it's a waste of money to not pour that back in the vat.
The UV will penetrate a few mm, but not if the walls are too thick.
As for the rinsing getting in the holes, no real worries there. The alcohol will get in. Plus the main point of the rinsing is so it looks nice when it's done. Nobody cares what the inside looks like.
Really interesting video, Phil! Back when I was doing CAD, we only did the modeling. Another group took care of the printing and clean-up so those aspects were all new to me.
Also, our software was nowhere as nice, or as fast as what you're using. My jaw dropped when all your supports were done for you. You kids these days have it too easy!
Solid video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and know-how!!!
Glad you liked it! Feel free to subscribe for more!
@@3DJapan Just did!
got a problem with a new pc is there a link for a 32bit system windows 10 possibly?
For what ChiTuBox? It's on their website with the other downloads.
www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
Hey Phil, how is this machine holding up after almost 2 years? How often have you used it and have you had any problems with it? Thanks!
Honestly I pretty much stopped using it after I got a mono printer. The mono screen is so much faster and better detail. I've reviewed some other printers on my channel you might like. Right now I'm mostly using the Epax E6.
Great video and all, but I can't find config folder in LongerWare folder. Any reason why?
If day make sure you have the latest Longerware from the website.
@@3DJapan Will do it, but the problem is I can't find where I could download latest Longerware. I checked the current version and it is 1.33.
Could like pass me a link to the software or smth?
@@3DJapan By the way longer3d website is not working at all, it's all broken.
Awesome!
What was the name of the good resin you used?
I love this resin. It's Sirayatech Fast. Very little smell, it's really fast, and pops right off of the build plate.
i dont have config in longerware file..
Do you have that ChiTu folder? Have you tried searching for _Orange10.cfg? That's all I can guess other than making sure you have the latest version of Longerware installed from the website.
@@3DJapan yup all i needed to install last version of firmware and now i have it thanks.. but during the print on lcd screen doesnt show me the layer it makes only the full picture of model
Can you post a screenshot of your anycubic gray resin? I bought the same thing would like to reference it
The settings? I used the default settings except the exposure time had to be 18 seconds (18000ms)
WHEre do you download LongerWare
On The Longer 3D website under support.
www.longer3d.com/oragne-10/
very good vid!
your lucky when i hit generate the supports it closes the program and I can open a file but it will not save it to the micro card so I can not get it to the printer, so looks like I just wasted my 229.
Which program doesn't generate supports? ChiTuBox? Sorry I can't help with that but it's a very popular program so maybe a web search will get you a solution.
@@3DJapan no longerware , so when its edited in chi tubox and i have to go back to longerware I cant even save it to the sd card to get it to the printer, your video helped me so much getting it this far thank you
@@MrMeddle2243 i had tyhe same problem on the save file i haave to move the file to the sd card manually
@@wizzyw94 I finely worked through almost all the problems I was having with mine
It's Nitril , like Mithril Frodo Nolan.
oh god. too many supports on the face.
I tried various configurations and that's what worked best.
sanding resin without a mask. /facepalm
It was only a few swipes while on camera.