What a fab job. I try to say I don't buy cars often, but I move cars in and out of my "fleet" once a year - not by plan, but just as projects finish (a '93 :RRC LSE is the daily) . I am always *ecstatic* to come upon a car that's been looked after like yours, I always go by how the underneath of a vehicle looks and how well that's been looked after, rather than just the shiney bit up top.
Your dedication is unsurpassed..but you do realise after doing so much and spending so much time doing this that you are never allowed to sell this RangeRover..😁😁😁..I am lucky to live in Western Australia and my Rangerover does not suffer the amount of rust you have in the UK ..but I have always used rust prevention on all my Landrovers..this is why I still have a lot of them..Great Video as usual!!😁😁😁
Jordan amazing effort. Just about to do this on my 07 L322. I need to do the sills/arches... normal L322 stuff but I also need to treat the rear subframe. I've had a look around mine and it's a little crusty but man for a 2011 I must say I was surpised by yours, looks like it has been in some salt to get that bad! I'm in 2 minds to drop the rear subframe now after seeing your video! I'm working on the ground with it so I don't have the lift as a luxury so trying to see if I need to or not! Keep up the great work!
Just having 322 sills, arches and front subframe done, then the rear subframe is on the todo list early next year. Great video and I'm pleased your 322 has more life left init for many years now. Your lucky to have a workshop.....I'll be scrabbling about on the ground lanoguarding the underside 😅
Well done, I found a twisted knot wire cup brush on the angle grinder made quick work of the rust removal albeit very dusty - mask needed. Tried Lanogaurd last year, not impressed. Gone with Dinatrol now which is in my view more robust.
It truly is a sad reality how badly these cars rust because of lacking rust protection from the factory. I've been through the same process (even removed the engine/transmission with subframes) on my first 3.6 TDV8 - and meanwhile bought a second one (lol) because of how intensely time consuming the project turned out to be. 6 weeks is quite quick tbh and it's nice to see you got it done! Although I can't help but think that there is probably much more rust on the sills behind the plastic covers and side steps, from experience they will be rusted through around and in front of the rear jacking points, especially with how bad the rest of the car looked. Also a good idea to look inside the trunk (or boot as you guys call it) and remove the plastic vent boxes in each corner (basically behind the rear wheel wells). Moisture creeps in there, it's why most L322s have rust bubbles on the rear wheel arches and by that time it's too late because they rust from the inside out. Anyways hope to see more videos of your L322s as I've been greatly enjoying them! Greetings from Germany
Thank you, luckily the sills are solid, but yes do need some treatment. However to treat them i need to cut the side steps off, so that's another phase of work Good tip on the rear vents
@@RoughRestos oh bugger, didn't know they are welded to the car. To get to the vents and inner arches you will have to remove most of the electronics in front of them. I had to replace part of the cutouts the vents sit in and inner + outer wheel arch on mine because it was so bad. Good luck!
Brilliant job, great video, looks fantastic. I hope to be doing something very similar on my newly acquired 2012 Westminster this year on the drive. I won't be able to remove the rear subframe though, so hope I can get enough coverage.
Thank you, sounds great, maybe best using a product like the lanolin where you can't properly access, it'll hopefully seal the surface, paint will do the opposite if not prepped :)
Nice job 👏 I need to do something similar with my Celica (its way less rusty than your RR despite being 20 years old) be great if you could do an update on how the Buzzweld is lasting in a few months. Looks just like the product I'm looking for (i hate claggy underseal that never dries)
It's called "planned obsolescence", it's to stop them lasting long enough for yobbo's like you to get your grubby little hands on 😂 People that buy them new only own them for 1 to 5 years tops and, apart from occasionally needing a random piggy back home on a flatbed they are usually still in good condition, but after all the warranty and consumer rights have expired they don't care But once you eliminate the inherent problems with them like you have it is a lovely lovely car!!! Good work mate, as usual 😉👍
There certainly is some surface rust, but still solid. problem being the side steps need to be cut off. so new sides steps, new air tank and sill treatment is another phase :)
What an adorable dog! 🐶
What a fab job. I try to say I don't buy cars often, but I move cars in and out of my "fleet" once a year - not by plan, but just as projects finish (a '93 :RRC LSE is the daily) . I am always *ecstatic* to come upon a car that's been looked after like yours, I always go by how the underneath of a vehicle looks and how well that's been looked after, rather than just the shiney bit up top.
More often than not the underside is neglected, despite being the hardest part to fix.
You've certainly got a better daily though :) Would love an LSE
New to L322 ownership, very informative, thanks. Love the rear box delete mod
What I like is you don't cut corners you pay attention to detail good on you Jordan 👍
Your dedication is unsurpassed..but you do realise after doing so much and spending so much time doing this that you are never allowed to sell this RangeRover..😁😁😁..I am lucky to live in Western Australia and my Rangerover does not suffer the amount of rust you have in the UK ..but I have always used rust prevention on all my Landrovers..this is why I still have a lot of them..Great Video as usual!!😁😁😁
Thank you, well... i kinda want a better spec one long term :) So this may not be the last L322
Jordan amazing effort. Just about to do this on my 07 L322. I need to do the sills/arches... normal L322 stuff but I also need to treat the rear subframe. I've had a look around mine and it's a little crusty but man for a 2011 I must say I was surpised by yours, looks like it has been in some salt to get that bad! I'm in 2 minds to drop the rear subframe now after seeing your video!
I'm working on the ground with it so I don't have the lift as a luxury so trying to see if I need to or not!
Keep up the great work!
Just having 322 sills, arches and front subframe done, then the rear subframe is on the todo list early next year.
Great video and I'm pleased your 322 has more life left init for many years now.
Your lucky to have a workshop.....I'll be scrabbling about on the ground lanoguarding the underside 😅
Ouch, yes on the floor wouldn't be fun
Well not for the amount of work I had to do, but a ramp is a luxury for sure
Looking good well done looks like it was a mammoth task cheers
Thank you, It was indeed :)
Well done, I found a twisted knot wire cup brush on the angle grinder made quick work of the rust removal albeit very dusty - mask needed. Tried Lanogaurd last year, not impressed. Gone with Dinatrol now which is in my view more robust.
It truly is a sad reality how badly these cars rust because of lacking rust protection from the factory. I've been through the same process (even removed the engine/transmission with subframes) on my first 3.6 TDV8 - and meanwhile bought a second one (lol) because of how intensely time consuming the project turned out to be. 6 weeks is quite quick tbh and it's nice to see you got it done!
Although I can't help but think that there is probably much more rust on the sills behind the plastic covers and side steps, from experience they will be rusted through around and in front of the rear jacking points, especially with how bad the rest of the car looked. Also a good idea to look inside the trunk (or boot as you guys call it) and remove the plastic vent boxes in each corner (basically behind the rear wheel wells). Moisture creeps in there, it's why most L322s have rust bubbles on the rear wheel arches and by that time it's too late because they rust from the inside out.
Anyways hope to see more videos of your L322s as I've been greatly enjoying them! Greetings from Germany
Thank you, luckily the sills are solid, but yes do need some treatment.
However to treat them i need to cut the side steps off, so that's another phase of work
Good tip on the rear vents
@@RoughRestos oh bugger, didn't know they are welded to the car.
To get to the vents and inner arches you will have to remove most of the electronics in front of them. I had to replace part of the cutouts the vents sit in and inner + outer wheel arch on mine because it was so bad. Good luck!
Awesome. Thanks for the informative video! Now owning a D2, I am going to need to get familiar with this sort of product. Very interest!
Glad it was helpful! You'll be needing rust treatment/prevention for sure :)
Brilliant job, great video, looks fantastic. I hope to be doing something very similar on my newly acquired 2012 Westminster this year on the drive. I won't be able to remove the rear subframe though, so hope I can get enough coverage.
Thank you, sounds great, maybe best using a product like the lanolin where you can't properly access, it'll hopefully seal the surface, paint will do the opposite if not prepped :)
Nice job 👏 I need to do something similar with my Celica (its way less rusty than your RR despite being 20 years old) be great if you could do an update on how the Buzzweld is lasting in a few months. Looks just like the product I'm looking for (i hate claggy underseal that never dries)
Thank you, ofcourse
Wow! Well done! Let us know how the produkts work out. Yeah, not very "PREMIUM" is it! If i had got it new, i would not have bought another....
Thank you, will do!
It's called "planned obsolescence", it's to stop them lasting long enough for yobbo's like you to get your grubby little hands on 😂
People that buy them new only own them for 1 to 5 years tops and, apart from occasionally needing a random piggy back home on a flatbed they are usually still in good condition, but after all the warranty and consumer rights have expired they don't care
But once you eliminate the inherent problems with them like you have it is a lovely lovely car!!!
Good work mate, as usual 😉👍
You need to get off them side steps and have a look under the plastic sill covers, if the arches are rusty then they may be too👍🏼
There certainly is some surface rust, but still solid. problem being the side steps need to be cut off. so new sides steps, new air tank and sill treatment is another phase :)
@@RoughRestos et rid of the side steps, obviously it is my personal opinion but I think they look better without them, first thin I did with mine👍
@@nickgilbert6445 I#m a fan of the side steps and/or the chrome side bars, think they look smarter with them on (and mudflaps) personally
Definitely agree with that comment. Mine didn't look that bad at first glance but when I started soft padding off the surface rust, they disappeared.
She's very cute!
Buying normal cars will keep us from looking for more of your fantastic contents.😂😂😂😂
That's a fair point :) Thank you for your sacrifice
If it's anything like Waxoyl, forget it.