You can remove the speedometer cable before you pull the cluster. I'm not sure if that helps relieve any of the "pulling" or stressing on the printed circuit board. Also, you can use a pencil eraser to remove the oxidation if you don't have a Dremel. I haven't had to do this yet on my '83. Great video! If all else fails, Dakota digital and Intellitronix make direct fit replacements. They're pricey, but at least they're available. Thanks!
Hi @longologo productions! Do you know if any website selling all complete fuel injection kit to the 305 5.0L (4BBL) from 1985? Had a look on rock auto but could not find any. Would you have any idea if it is complicated to install and ind the end worth it? Thanks again, great channel and video!
@@AmyDuesenberg : SprayWayCustoms has a video showing how to do this for the front and rear doors: ua-cam.com/video/lJuMjM9iu9w/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared. Hope that helps!
@@AmyDuesenberg : The shop manual has a bunch of (confusing) info on the doors. Someday I’ll do a video on this because I also need to replace the sweeps. Anyway, here’s exactly what it says: “1. Remove trim panel and detach insulator pad (if so equipped) and inner panel water deflector. 2. Remove two glass belt line, support clips and trim support retainer (9 and 8, Figs. 5-61 and 5-65). 3. Slide glass straight down (glass suction cups may help) and remove from inboard side of door. 4. To install, first spray glass, run channel with silicone spray or liquid soap solution, then reverse removal procedure. Tighten attaching screws with hand screwdriver.” Fig. 5-65 shows that “8” (trim support retainer) is a piece located at the front of the rear door in front of the door lock mechanism and it looks like there is a single screw perpendicular to the inside surface of the door. “9” (glass support clips) are shown in the figure as two sort of U-shaped clips that support the glass from the bottom and each having a screw perpendicular to the inside surface of the rear door. What I can’t tell from the pictures and the diagrams is whether any of the interior sheet metal is blocking access to these screws or whether any of the rivets on the inside of the door would need to be drilled out. It seems like there are enough openings on the inner metal that you could partially roll the window down to access, the two glass support clips. You might also be able to access the screw for the trim support retainer through one of the holes in the interior sheet metal. Let me know whether this helps.
Check out my other video on how I finally fixed the gas gauge here: ua-cam.com/video/AR3tJ8X4ECo/v-deo.html I also have an earlier video where I was troubleshooting the gas gauge here: ua-cam.com/video/CrD_zxqTfW8/v-deo.html But the first link above was the actual fix. Hope that helps.
@jerronthomas6565: That's because I have the base instrument cluster, and not the gauge package. The temperature 'gauge' on my instrument cluster is just a red light that you hope doesn't come on!
I am a Saudi girl and I love this type of car. I want to buy one in the future. Your channel is amazing. Keep going ♥️♥️
Fixed my gas gauge thanks to u it was the ground cable
Great little series on the gas gauge ordeal now it time for me to figure what's going on with mine😂
Good luck! It was a real pain to figure out.
You can remove the speedometer cable before you pull the cluster. I'm not sure if that helps relieve any of the "pulling" or stressing on the printed circuit board. Also, you can use a pencil eraser to remove the oxidation if you don't have a Dremel. I haven't had to do this yet on my '83. Great video! If all else fails, Dakota digital and Intellitronix make direct fit replacements. They're pricey, but at least they're available. Thanks!
@turkey ssr: Thanks!
Hi @longologo productions! Do you know if any website selling all complete fuel injection kit to the 305 5.0L (4BBL) from 1985? Had a look on rock auto but could not find any. Would you have any idea if it is complicated to install and ind the end worth it? Thanks again, great channel and video!
@davidmonteiropaes6247: I don’t know. Sorry!
@@LongologoProductions No problem, thank you for coming back😊
Jegs performance
HELP :
Is there an easy way of taking the rear door windows out on a 85 Caprice 4-door sedan to replace the outside window sweeps ?
@@AmyDuesenberg I will check what the shop manual says when I can get back to it…
@@LongologoProductions thank you
@@AmyDuesenberg : SprayWayCustoms has a video showing how to do this for the front and rear doors: ua-cam.com/video/lJuMjM9iu9w/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared. Hope that helps!
@@LongologoProductions I checked out the video but it doesn't show how to take out the back door window
@@AmyDuesenberg : The shop manual has a bunch of (confusing) info on the doors. Someday I’ll do a video on this because I also need to replace the sweeps. Anyway, here’s exactly what it says: “1. Remove trim panel and detach insulator pad (if so equipped) and inner panel water deflector. 2. Remove two glass belt line, support clips and trim support retainer (9 and 8, Figs. 5-61 and 5-65). 3. Slide glass straight down (glass suction cups may help) and remove from inboard side of door. 4. To install, first spray glass, run channel with silicone spray or liquid soap solution, then reverse removal procedure. Tighten attaching screws with hand screwdriver.” Fig. 5-65 shows that “8” (trim support retainer) is a piece located at the front of the rear door in front of the door lock mechanism and it looks like there is a single screw perpendicular to the inside surface of the door. “9” (glass support clips) are shown in the figure as two sort of U-shaped clips that support the glass from the bottom and each having a screw perpendicular to the inside surface of the rear door. What I can’t tell from the pictures and the diagrams is whether any of the interior sheet metal is blocking access to these screws or whether any of the rivets on the inside of the door would need to be drilled out. It seems like there are enough openings on the inner metal that you could partially roll the window down to access, the two glass support clips. You might also be able to access the screw for the trim support retainer through one of the holes in the interior sheet metal. Let me know whether this helps.
I got a 79 impala mines want work at all even if I ground the pink wire it won’t move or nunthing any idea what could be the problem
That’s so frustrating. There are so many little things that could affect it-a bad ground somewhere, or even just a bad gauge.
I have an 88 brougham I just changed the sending unit but my gaug still is on empty do you have any tips
Check out my other video on how I finally fixed the gas gauge here: ua-cam.com/video/AR3tJ8X4ECo/v-deo.html I also have an earlier video where I was troubleshooting the gas gauge here: ua-cam.com/video/CrD_zxqTfW8/v-deo.html But the first link above was the actual fix. Hope that helps.
Hi bro
What’s name of manual book that you use?
It’s the standard shop manual for the GM cars of that model year. You can find some on eBay or even digital versions on CD on Amazon.
Can U make a video on the fuse box inside the car?
I’ll definitely add it to the list.
can i just replace the cluster?
If you can find a good one and if that’s the cause of the issue. But if you have a bad ground somewhere else then replacing the cluster won’t help.
Are you familiar wit the 80's Crown Vic Ltd's?
@BriizCustoms: No. Similar issues?
@@LongologoProductions Yes!
Why doesn’t it have a temp gauge
@jerronthomas6565: That's because I have the base instrument cluster, and not the gauge package. The temperature 'gauge' on my instrument cluster is just a red light that you hope doesn't come on!
❤
Can you get me that book please man man 3213 E 11TH Ave Tampa FL 33605 make it look like prime ordered it