Dude, I am impressed. This in my opinion is safer and doesn't remove any original metal. It just gets rid of the rust. At today's high prices for inferior tools made in China, I'd rather clean old and rusty American quality tools and make them as good as new. Never mind the haters, you have a fan in New York City.....
Dude the quality of washers and bolts is the same in both countries, the difference is it's a lot cheaper getting it from China because they're in their industrial revolution right now.
To all the people saying just buy new; what if it's a specialized fastener not available at all or quickly, this would be alife saver. As to other methods this actually reverses the process where various acid based will weaken the part as it removes metal.
Gee Roger, you're a genius! 1st of all, I cann't see where I typed in 'High Caps'. Secondly the suggested method in my comment is used because it DOESN'T remove any of the metal, and then your comment about this being to save parts that can't be purchased was simply the same as I wrote myself so a waste of time when it's clear you'd read my post! Finally, please explain how rust removal can be 'lifesaving' as you put it? Your entire post was a waste of people's time. This is what makes UA-cam suck sometimes. And would it REALLY be upsetting you IF I TYPED IN HI CAPS?
I've been restoring 100+ year old cast iron skillets with electrolysis for the past few years. It's not a perfect process as it's messy and does take some time, but the results are great! I love buying $300+ skillets for a few bucks then running them through the zap tank, it's always a surprise when you finally see what you've got.
I have done this for the last two summers while restoring my old pickup truck. I generally let it run for 12 to 24 hours then follow with a water hose rinse and then 12 to 24 hours in Evaporust. I usually end up with silver-shiny metal, devoid of all rust and paint.
The question you don't seem to ask yourself tough, is why you use several techniques which all remove rust by themselves combined. - Electrolysis combined with baking soda does this (but in a rather weak way, requires quite a number of tools and leaves a mess) - Vinegar does this (depending on the amount of acetic acid inside the vinegar (usually 10%) it can be quite powerfull and cheap, it does require some time to react with the rust) - Cleaning the items with a steelbrush does it too (altough it's not an 'easy way') So it would be better to state that you combine methods, and that your movie isn't very clear on that part.
+DePvdM. Why do you assume I don't ask myself that? I wondered that as soon as I began experimenting with electrolysis. However, when I followed up a run with Evaporust soak, the results were very good. Evaporust is reusable, so I am not out much beyond the initial cost of the fluid. How much experience to you have with this technique? Perhaps you can solve my problems. A wire brush is great but won't fit into every nook and cranny. It's great for bolts, washers, and the outsides of nuts. Vinegar I have not tried. Electrolysis I have done several times, following the exact advice in this and other videos, but only seems to loosen rust (great for removing paint though) just not remove so much of it.
@Patato I am a mechanical engineer by trade. I design machines for a living. Vinegar is deluted acidic acid and works great in combination with metal rust but takes time to react with it. It clings to the rust and changes it's properties, making it turn color (from brown to black) and fall off. Can be safely disposed of through sewers afterwards as it won't become toxic or hazardous. Do notice that any towel you might use to wipe off excess gunk will become so dirty you cannot re-use it afterwards (will stain heavily) and you might want to protect your clothing too. . Electrolysis combined with baking soda is as i said, a fairly weak way to remove rust, as well as that it does give a lot of additional challenges.
+DePvdM. Your career choice is impressive, I hope you make a good living at that but it didn't answer my questions. Why did you assume I didn't ask myself that? How much experience do you have with this (electrolysis) technique? Sounds like Evaporust is a more effective method than vinegar albeit more expensive. I have come to the conclusion that it's better to get a sand/media blasting cabinet if one can. I do not have the place to store such a thing so I had to resort to other methods.
Beautiful. And cost saving too. Few people take their time and fuel cost into consideration when buying new bolts but it adds up. Also reusing is way better than recycling. Scrap should always be the last resort. It's great to see old bolts get new life!
Hey Aharon ... Dude don't let these idiots get to you man... More than likely they are jealous because of your successful means of removing the rust... Some people are so jealous of other's success, even the small things, that they heva to find some way to criticize! Just so you know, It has helped me come up with some helpful alternatives,,, My Grandfather was a blacksmith and he liked to build and make things out of metal... Things you can't buy! So this method of cleaning will help me "bring to life" if you will... Several of his creations that have fallen victim to the annual rusting process... Gob's of hard rust where I found them in the ground. Anyway, just wanted to say: THANK YOU! I will try to let you know what I found (that he made). He was a very creative man and could make anything! Again, TY!
Thank you for sharing, ignore the people that have no mental capacity for anything and insist on nasty comments I am grateful for people like you,you took time to share Thank You and continue your good work
Top job mate ,dad just gave me his father's and also his tools that they made ,my grandfather was a tool maker and I are about to start making jewellery, and I think that bringing back the good stuff that they made,may have been trying for ages to get some tools but now full on my first pieces of equipment like anvil, voices and I was absolutely thrilled to see that they made the perfect choice with accessories for a lathe I need ,so I'm over the moon. So thanks for your help and your knowledge about trusted tools that look brand new, maybe when I start to get a good business perspective I think that I have to do something to make it easier to get back to work like me 3 long years later (oesophagus ruptured and I was looking at death, doctors said I was critical after 10 days in a coma, so yeah I am sure I can get my life back. Watching how you brought the tools back to life I had to aswell. So great job🙂
You should have used a unique piece of metal to avoid all the useless comments about getting new bolts. Also you should have started the video by saying that Coke is acidic enough to remove light rust to avoid all the useless comments on Coke. Great demonstration.
*For idiots commenting about the waste of time about these nuts and bolts. It's just an example for the process that it's applicable for some other items
Two days work for $10 worth of nuts and bolts, lol. Makes no sense to me but thanks for the great lesson! (I realize this could be useful for a lot of stuff.)
Hi Jeff thanks for your comment, the point of this video is not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts (its just an example for heavy rust). The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some vintage car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part and without damaging it, ;-)
***** Yeah, this would certainly be the best if not only option for hard to replace parts. Unfortunately though you always lose some material as rust literally eats away the metal so I don't think I'd ever want to try and reuse a bolt which had serious rust issues. Certainly many get to a point of non-useability regardless of how much cleaning is done. Looks like the ones in your video are still useable though. I've actually got a whole trailer I wish I could do this to but would obviously be hard to do with large objects.
interesting educational video, after reading about 1,000,000 of the comments, i didnt realize rust removal could be so controversial lol. u gotta be makin cash on those over 3,000,000 views!👍i liked it
There are too many extremely naive people making comments here. RESTORATIONS! That is the value in this. There are many many many various items made of metal that are collector pieces. These items hold value much better when they have original parts. Most folks who restore doit as a hobby and enjoy transforming a rusted heap into a beautiful bike, for example. There is a big dollar value in restoring original pieces.
There are two kinds of people. Those who solve problems with intricate and creative solutions, and those who solve it with money! You decide what you wanna be.
I just watched the video and read down this far. The comments all come from trolls and people who didn't actually read the information in the video. The whole point of the video was to demonstrate a method of rust removal that can be used on parts that cannot easily be replaced at a store. A method that does not take off any of the non-rusty metal. Useful, for example, on the inside of gun barrels. Sometimes we find a "deal" on a gun that has been stored poorly and needs loving care for restoration. This seems like a good method for that.
There are only 1 kind of person its called fixers. Fixers get you things you need. You can pay others to fix your stuff or fix it yourself. Sure its nice to fix every single thing out there on your own but why have to go through the trouble of knowing how to fix cars when you are a vet for instance and that is your main interest. You fix someones pet and they might fix your car simple exchange.
Ash Ketchum On the whole I agree with you but I guess the main reason why I study medicine so that I can cure my cat AND I enjoy learning how to remove rust from bolts is that KNOWLEDGE is power. To some it is trouble, to some, learning new stuff could be the hobby in itself. also, I know how to fix my car and yet I might still take it to the mechanic or I might take my cat to the vet, however in many cases I tell them what to do. Once the vet actually challenged me and he went to google to prove me wrong and guess what it was my article he picked up!!! yes I am a ghost writer and write about anything and if I challenge someone like a vet on something it might be because I own the search engines for the keyword! hahah.
I'm going to be using this same method on a 70 year old Briggs & Stratton engine. Thanks for the detailed video. Because new parts are not available or are very hard to find.
I just tried, because I had 50 pounds of citric acid in the garage that I use for zinc removal, to put very rusty horse shoes into a solution of water + citric acid. Evidently, thinking that it wouldn't do much since citric acid is rather weak, it totally worked and even removed the annoying black rust that is hard to remove most of the time. Electric removal is obviously the best choice but for those who can't get that done, can always go for citric acid. It will work within 48 hours or so and do a much better job than vinegar for example (and will not smell either).
Repairing is better than replacing. This video showed some old nuts and bolts but it is a great way to remove rust from irreplaceable mechanical components
Great video. After electrolysis I'd recommend bathing the metal parts in diluted muratic acid and then a neutralizing baking soda solution to remove the residual rust and dirt (WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!) before final treatment with WD-40 or other rust-inhibitive solvent. FYI, I've also used used motor oil on bare hardware such as outdoor furniture fasteners exposed to the weather, submerging the parts and then absorbing the excess with a rag, and I've had great results with it as a rust-inhibitor.
Wow, nice of you to do all of the steps needed to make it happen. The quick way to get rid of rust is using Blackstar Rust Converter - Spray on and your done.
Hey all of you dealing with corrosion problems and rust. As a professional fastener man I will strongly recommend all of you that plan a reuse of the bolts and nuts after having them de rusted in any way not to do so. The reason is simple. The rust may cause both surface and internal flaws to the bolts. A rust pit become a stress riser and will reduce the fatigue life of a bolt being exposed to dynamic forces. The same happens internally in the material under influence of corrosive environment and dynamic stress. The rust will penetrate deeper and deeper until the stress area of the bolt is to small to sustain the stress level felt by the bolt with havoc as a result. My good advice to you guys : throw all the old bolts away and buy some new with a protective coating or in a corrosion resistant material. Just look out for the right grade marking on the head or on the nut. Washers should not be made of mild steel. Have a nice day Olav Boee
to everyone that think acid is a better idea I dont recommend it. Acid gives off fumes that can be hazardous. My wife has been using electrolysiy for rust removal off old tools for some time now. She sells them in flea markets and they fetch a nice price...Most heve been free. She cleaned some horseshoes that were estimated to be 100 years old found in an old gold miners cabin...They did have pitting but were still pretty strong and had plenty of metal on them. As for cheaper to buy new bolts...of course it is..they were just used as an example...get real!!
Jimmy Tate - Cheaper, but less satisfying! If your metal is pitted, the acid (white vinegar) rust removal techniques will enlarge the pitting. Found that out on a piece of railroad rail.
Not a ping on the OP, but maybe if the title used words like 'antique' and 'restoration' there might be less confusion. Then again, people could take the time to watch the entire video and read the descriptions...
Love this technique, BTW. I have used electrolysis in the following projects: 1. Rust removal, as per video. 2. Making potassium perchlorate using carbon electrodes and salt substitute. Don't ask. 3. Metal contouring using selective anode-side etching. Sort of like reverse electroplating. Using the etching process, I made a series or knives and two swords. Cool thing about etching is that the base metal can be fully hardened and tempered! The process does not harm the metals grain-structure, unlike grinding [hot spots]. It is kind of slow, about 1/32 inch removal in 20 minutes. Then again, the removal is even across the entire work surface...
Greg Gallacci I like electrolysis compared to acid since you can turn it off and on and adjust the current as you like with a constant current setup. My late 1970's school project featured electrolytic etching of copper plated circuit boards using copper sulphate plus a final finish with ferric chloride. I also used sodium chloride to erode a stainless steel rod to fit a hole and I didn't have any tool to shape it then. I didn't know about chromium hazards then. This is about 2 decades before google/wikipedia.
u did this video very well but i gotta say man..do we live near a rail road or an old ship yard or an historic resadent cause i high doubt you will find random rusty bits layin around lol
I tried it, on an old, very old, irrepairable tractor, it works did a second stage, using zinc (roof flashing) sacrificial anodes after the parts were clean, now I have galvanised tractor parts, good for 50 more years,
Malt vinegar? And then it gets filtered through a sock, and used for salad dressing. On a more serious side, that is a really well thought out system. I have seen a 50/50 anti-freeze solution used in a heat treating shop as a rust stop after wet sand blasting steel parts. Again, a good and useful show.
Use care when doing this. Only perform this task outdoors. The hydrogen gas given off from this process easily explodes when near a flame or spark. I use an inflatable baby swimming pool to derust old moped rims. You can reverse this process using clean water and washing soda with a good sacrificial metal like a large chain and sometimes fill small holes in a part. I use Arm and Hammer washing soda for the solution. It is Carbonate of Soda. If you don't have any, dump a box of Bicarbonate of Soda on a cookie sheet and place in an oven at 375 degrees F. Stir the pile every 15 min. for a half hour to hour. Instead of a battery charger I use a 1o amp Astron power supply like used in CB or ham radio. Be careful and keep the area dry and use a GFCI for outside safety on your power cords.
For those who are fans of acid treatment. Yes, it works. Worked for me, especially concentrated sulphuric.. But it's acid, bad stuff. Phosphoric treatments are expensive for a tiny bottle. One major merit of this is that washing soda is acceptable for your drains, and safe.
HI Bob, thanks for your comment. 3 comments that I get from time to time for de-rusting methods. Here are the top three: 1.Muriatic acid, 2.Sand blasting, 3.Wire buffing wheel. All three method will do the job however they do have their disadvantages as you have pinpointed one regrading Muriatic acid. I will summarize again my past comments for the top 3 fans, as I get this comments again and again. 1.Muriatic acid, Danger of using chemicals such as Hydrochloric/Mutric acid, Very hazardous in case of skin contact, mist may produce tissue damage particularly on mucous membranes of eyes, mouth and respiratory tract. Skin contact may produce burns. Inhalation of the spray mist may produce severe irritation of respiratory tract, characterized by coughing, choking, or shortness of breath. Severe over-exposure can result in death. I prefer a safer method -;) 2.Sand blasting, Majority of the people don't have a sand blasting cabinet in their garage/shed and they are are definitely not going to buy one if they need to de-rust an object once a year. The electrolysis method offers a a quick and cheap solution for anyone that wants to get rid of the rust in a very efficient way. 3.Wire buffing wheel: with electrolysis rust removal process you are not limited to the size of the object to be De-rusted. You could actually De-rust big a car frame with this method. With wire wheel you are limited to small objects, its messy, you will scratch the work piece and you will not be able to remove rust from odd shaped objects. Wire wheel can remove too much material and cause damage, whereas electrolysis will not damage the metal of the original part. The bolts that I De-rusted in this video are EXTREMELY rusted. For light rust the process is effortless. Also with electrolysis rust removal process there is no limitation to the size of the object to be De-rusted. You could actually De-rust big a car frame with this method.
I have a buddy who does this & has cleaned engine parts with the system. It seems to work really well. I have built similar things myself too, though I was usually doing it to capture the hydrogen & oxygen gasses, not to clean rusty metal objects.
Great video! Thanks to share your method. I will use it in the future, saves me from huge expenses. And congratulation for your patient, to explain over and over again, the rusty bolts are just for explanation .
HCl is Muriatic Acid available from hardware stores. I use Sulfuric Acid drain cleaner available from Lowes, wear rubber gloves, make a dilute solution of it by adding small amounts to water (NEVER add water to acid), and it eats the rust away in minutes. You have to be very careful. Then I rinse thoroughly in baking soda solution, thoroughly dry, and coat with WD40
***** I Agree here . Also, the phosphoric acid In the cola will dissolve the rust, removing it in the process so you will lose material but this method converts the rust back into metal, thus you don't lose any material and therefore the strength of the original component is retained.
roythearcher Incorrect, the rust does not convert back to the part, thats impossible. But electrolysis will remove less parent material than an acid will...
YZFoFittie I would say, nothing is impossible but, granted, the process to convert the "rust" back to the original parent component would be too complex and difficult to be viable for this exercise.. but I bet there's a clever enough chemist out there, (not me!) who could do it...
That is a very clever way to waste electricity. All you need is acid of some sort. I have a very smooth 1/2" drive ratchet that was solidly rusted in place when I got it. Took it apart & soaked all the working end pieces in some CLR bathroom fixture cleaner for a while then sprayed it with baking soda water to neutralize the acid. Then I applied wd-40 to drive off the moisture. A little wire brushing followed by re-assembling the bugger with some axel grease stuffed into it & It's been my favorite as well as the smoothest operating 1/2" drive ratchet I've ever owned.
Buy a grinder from an estate sale for $10 and you will be able to do the same thing more or less, for some of your item at least. Good information though.
Hi Arthur, Thanks for your comment, using a grinder will damage the object to be de-rusted. Electrolysis rust removal method clears all the rust only and do not damage the item. For example if you had to restore some rusty vintage part, you wouldn't want to damage it with grinder.
***** I guest it depends on how long the item has rusted. If it is ten or twenty years, it may be ok. But if it is a hundred year old item, the rusted surface will not be smooth anyway, unless you have really high quality steel.
+Arthur Hau a Grinder would no matter how delicately handled will always damage the object regardless of age, electrolysis would only attack the rust and leave the object without any scratches, no matter how old the object is. So electrolysis is always the better option of the two. Hundred year old items are considered antiques in most cases in will always be treated with the most care and delicacy regardless, so electrolysis would always be your best bet, unless of course you don't care about the object. Grinding is always worse fr rust removal since you would always have to wear some form of protection as it makes for a lot of noise and not to mention a lot of dust. Grinding only makes sense when you are cleaning of slag from welding or have to grind or remove a lot of material fast. In the case of the video it would make no sense to even pick up a grinder since you'd pretty much make all the bolts useless, since you'd be damaging the threads on them, just my 2 cents on it.
The autobody repair industry uses something called Rust-Mort to 're-galvanize' body panels which have been sanded to bare metal. I have used Rust-Mort for nearly 40 years in a much simpler low voltage process. The rust is removed AND the fasteners are rust-proofed. I have fasteners in my bolts bins I did in the '80's which have been in unheated garages, in Oregon, since then. They STILL have never rusted. Also, as long as the fasteners are free of grease, I've never had to do any cleaning of dirt. It's gone after the process, and the fasteners are a grayish-green color, and completely clean when done. The process SHOULD generate some heat. Enough to warm the fluid used. I just used a stainless bowl, and clamped the power connector to a large bolt in the bottom, and dumped the fasteners on top, (after tumbling them in solvent t remove grease.) We used to get 5 gallon buckets of fasteners from a local auto wrecker. We traded sheet metal and other scrap parts for them. We bought a lot of parts from them for our body shop, so they were open to trading.
NEAT TRICK BUT THE BOLT THREADS ARE POROUS AND BRITTLE NOW, WILL NOT HOLD MUCH TORQUE AS A FRESHLY MADE UNRUSTED BOLT. ANY CASE HARDENING ON BOLTS WILL BE COMPROMISED. THIS IS ONLY GOOD FOR THINGS THAT ARE NOT GOING TO BEAR MUCH LOAD OR CRITICAL APPLICATIONS, JUST BASIC HARDWARE FOR LIGHT DUTY IS ALL. I WOULDN'T TRUST THOSE BOLTS ON MY ENGINE, OR BRAKES.
Thanks for your comment, trust me I will not use rusty bolts that went through electrolysis processes for any mechanical part. This process is mainly for restoration parts, rusty tools etc'.
OK, SO YOU WOULD USE IT ON A RUSTY TOO, THEN DEPEND ON THAT TOOL NOT TO BREAK OR SNAP UNDER LOAD OR CHIP AND SEND A SHARD INTO YOUR EYE OR FACE? Hmmm...
autoparts321 Judging from your name 'Autoparts' it would most likely be in your best interest for people to to buy new from you if applicable! Thank you for pointing out that one has to be careful, but your reply was unnecessary to be honest. You yourself said in your first post that "JUST BASIC HARDWARE FOR LIGHT DUTY IS ALL" And the caps lock key is on the left of the keyboard :)
I skip all of the hard labor and just spray on Blackstar Rust Converter. One hour later its done - no more rust, and I can go back to what I was doing. It looks like fun though what your doing in the video. Fun with chemistry!
Hi Aharon, doing some nuts and bolts mysel man, cleanin up the jeep and I use Molasses with the water. Saves all da lectric. mix the molasses 9:1 with the water - leave for 2 weeks in the bath - come out truly shining - no need hanging around, scrubbin and polishin man - all don when you get them out of the bath. like your video, and you have lots of time good
You missed the point of this video its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts. The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some old car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part, believe me this is as cheap as it gets, you should check with your electric supplier your bills as you might be overcharged "$20 dollars electricity bill" ;-)
soak in muriatic acid in a well ventilated area. wear gloves and eye protection and a respirator or hold your breath while around it. when you are done, you can neutralize the acid solution with regular baking soda until done bubbling. then it is safe to pour down drain. can be picked up at most hardware and pool supply stores.
Good vid.About three years ago I de rusted a Raglan lathe that I bought off ebay with this method.Process is a bit dirty, but it's effective and cheap.I had to resort to using our Rainwater Butt for the lathe bed,what a mess!.
You are paying to much for you vinegar and soda crystals if your spending $40. Plus many nuts and bolts with fine threads special sizes etc can cost $5 each or more.
You missed the point of this video its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts (BTW I don't know where you came with the $40 figure) . The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some old car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part, believe me this is as cheap as it gets ;-)
***** most times when you have corroded parts which need to be replaced, you are better off getting a new part as the integrity of the part is reduced due to corrosion.
Its cool but im not really that impressed. I could get the same results if i put it on a wire buffing wheel for a few seconds and then rinse it in gasoline
Hi Igor thank for your comment, If you look at my video at point (0;24) I did mention that the purpose of this video is to demonstrate a great rust removal method, its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts.
Igor Vidakovic hehehehe new bolts... how would people learn how to make such a procedure if they were always focused on buying the new stuff instead ....
+Lalaland i did and I went to store and back got my shine new bolt before this movie ended. I get the procedure but what I dont get that it is very useful for guy like me that need one bolt i a blue moon. It will cost me more battery charger and soda then my new bolt of few cents
New bolts are cheap....less than your time and supplies to do this. PLUS, threaded fasteners that are badly rusted have lost much material from the threads; they will not accept proper torque before they strip. Interesting science experiment, but not really feasible.
I use this non-stop now. Cheap. Easy. Effective, but mostly, and this is the best bit, lazy! Feel free to kit up and use a rotary wire wheel, I'll be drinking coffee. Thank you mr. AM.
+Chandraprakash G (சந்திரப்பிரகாஷ்) are you stupid, of course he can buy a new set, the purpose of this video is to show how de-rusting method works, and how to do it .
he bought new ones at the end for sure 100% u would never get them that clean unless new there gleaming black they were grey at start with rust now black . strange don't be fooled
Dillan kadri dont be an idiot and try it for yourself, i cleaned screws and bolts from an old motorcycle using this method,and works 100%, You can find many youtubers using the same method
I do not get it. This guy makes a great informative video that teaches you one way for removing rust and everyone needs to say that they can do it quicker? Is it not beneficial to know multiple ways of accomplishing your goals? How about just the value of learning something for free. I have been using this method for metal detecting finds for years. I assure you this is the best way to remove the rust and keep your piece in its close to original form. Great video! Rob The Plumber
Putting them in a bucket of molasses mixed down with water will give you the same results, soaked an entire john deere 48 inch deck in some and came out perfect. Finding farm grade molasses is probably hardest part though, Rural King or TSC is a good place to look.
Nice job man !. nice to see people recycling the old and making use for it all , most people would have put that in landfill which is a shame tbh. great work !
4:58 That *should* say make sure the parts you derusting are not touching both electrodes. You could throw the negative electrode (attached to the part) directly in the water, it won't hurt it.
Awesome Video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. I have a pair of harley tanks that have some light surface rust on the inside. This will do a superb job! =)
There are many video's on here covering the anodising process,the caswell inc video is a good one to watch ,they are a very helpful company with unbeatable knowledge of the process(and no i don't work for them lol)
Dude, I am impressed. This in my opinion is safer and doesn't remove any original metal. It just gets rid of the rust. At today's high prices for inferior tools made in China, I'd rather clean old and rusty American quality tools and make them as good as new. Never mind the haters, you have a fan in New York City.....
Dude the quality of washers and bolts is the same in both countries, the difference is it's a lot cheaper getting it from China because they're in their industrial revolution right now.
Anonymous Guy ❤️ please support my channel and subscribe ❤️ sir pls
ua-cam.com/video/rfNjmkamc-g/v-deo.html
For 45 years maintenance electrician, but this tip is new for me. I will absolutely try it!!
Thank You, great tip
To all the people saying just buy new; what if it's a specialized
fastener not available at all or quickly, this would be alife saver. As to other methods this actually reverses the process where various acid based will weaken the part as it removes metal.
Gee Roger, you're a genius! 1st of all, I cann't see where I typed in 'High Caps'. Secondly the suggested method in my comment is used because it DOESN'T remove any of the metal, and then your comment about this being to save parts that can't be purchased was simply the same as I wrote myself so a waste of time when it's clear you'd read my post! Finally, please explain how rust removal can be 'lifesaving' as you put it? Your entire post was a waste of people's time. This is what makes UA-cam suck sometimes. And would it REALLY be upsetting you IF I TYPED IN HI CAPS?
delivertotheliver
you have a bad temper... go for a walk on the beach mate. You'll find it's a waste of everyone's time reading your post not Roger's
Dale Broughton Oh okay. Gee you've got me all worked out!
It's just feeding the chemical companies buying anti rust stuff
wow I learn something new everyday!!! people throw away good expensive tools when there rusted... nice video thx.
I've never thought to use rebar as a sacreficial metal. I really like the setup as well with them all being linked with the framework.
Bro watch this ua-cam.com/video/biJ2a341FJU/v-deo.html
A very amazing bit of recycling. Should have 100% upvotes. Will put this into play at home for all rusty stuff to recycle and USE!!
Great science.
The point is not the bolts. It's to do with any old rusted item.
Great video.
ua-cam.com/video/y6PfCGgG9QA/v-deo.html
I've been restoring 100+ year old cast iron skillets with electrolysis for the past few years. It's not a perfect process as it's messy and does take some time, but the results are great! I love buying $300+ skillets for a few bucks then running them through the zap tank, it's always a surprise when you finally see what you've got.
Bro watch this ua-cam.com/video/biJ2a341FJU/v-deo.html
I have done this for the last two summers while restoring my old pickup truck. I generally let it run for 12 to 24 hours then follow with a water hose rinse and then 12 to 24 hours in Evaporust. I usually end up with silver-shiny metal, devoid of all rust and paint.
Always works like magic ;-)
The question you don't seem to ask yourself tough, is why you use several techniques which all remove rust by themselves combined.
- Electrolysis combined with baking soda does this (but in a rather weak way, requires quite a number of tools and leaves a mess)
- Vinegar does this (depending on the amount of acetic acid inside the vinegar (usually 10%) it can be quite powerfull and cheap, it does require some time to react with the rust)
- Cleaning the items with a steelbrush does it too (altough it's not an 'easy way')
So it would be better to state that you combine methods, and that your movie isn't very clear on that part.
+DePvdM. Why do you assume I don't ask myself that? I wondered that as soon as I began experimenting with electrolysis. However, when I followed up a run with Evaporust soak, the results were very good. Evaporust is reusable, so I am not out much beyond the initial cost of the fluid.
How much experience to you have with this technique? Perhaps you can solve my problems.
A wire brush is great but won't fit into every nook and cranny. It's great for bolts, washers, and the outsides of nuts.
Vinegar I have not tried.
Electrolysis I have done several times, following the exact advice in this and other videos, but only seems to loosen rust (great for removing paint though) just not remove so much of it.
@Patato
I am a mechanical engineer by trade. I design machines for a living.
Vinegar is deluted acidic acid and works great in combination with metal rust but takes time to react with it. It clings to the rust and changes it's properties, making it turn color (from brown to black) and fall off. Can be safely disposed of through sewers afterwards as it won't become toxic or hazardous. Do notice that any towel you might use to wipe off excess gunk will become so dirty you cannot re-use it afterwards (will stain heavily) and you might want to protect your clothing too.
.
Electrolysis combined with baking soda is as i said, a fairly weak way to remove rust, as well as that it does give a lot of additional challenges.
+DePvdM. Your career choice is impressive, I hope you make a good living at that but it didn't answer my questions.
Why did you assume I didn't ask myself that?
How much experience do you have with this (electrolysis) technique?
Sounds like Evaporust is a more effective method than vinegar albeit more expensive.
I have come to the conclusion that it's better to get a sand/media blasting cabinet if one can. I do not have the place to store such a thing so I had to resort to other methods.
Beautiful. And cost saving too. Few people take their time and fuel cost into consideration when buying new bolts but it adds up. Also reusing is way better than recycling. Scrap should always be the last resort. It's great to see old bolts get new life!
Hey Aharon ... Dude don't let these idiots get to you man... More than likely they are jealous because of your successful means of removing the rust... Some people are so jealous of other's success, even the small things, that they heva to find some way to criticize! Just so you know, It has helped me come up with some helpful alternatives,,, My Grandfather was a blacksmith and he liked to build and make things out of metal... Things you can't buy! So this method of cleaning will help me "bring to life" if you will... Several of his creations that have fallen victim to the annual rusting process... Gob's of hard rust where I found them in the ground. Anyway, just wanted to say: THANK YOU! I will try to let you know what I found (that he made). He was a very creative man and could make anything! Again, TY!
Joe H just
Thank you for sharing, ignore the people that have no mental capacity for anything and insist on nasty comments I am grateful for people like you,you took time to share
Thank You and continue your good work
Citric acid solution, is my favorite. Heating/boiling the solution makes it especially effective. Would not have even needed to pre-clean those bolts.
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Top job mate ,dad just gave me his father's and also his tools that they made ,my grandfather was a tool maker and I are about to start making jewellery, and I think that bringing back the good stuff that they made,may have been trying for ages to get some tools but now full on my first pieces of equipment like anvil, voices and I was absolutely thrilled to see that they made the perfect choice with accessories for a lathe I need ,so I'm over the moon. So thanks for your help and your knowledge about trusted tools that look brand new, maybe when I start to get a good business perspective I think that I have to do something to make it easier to get back to work like me
3 long years later (oesophagus ruptured and I was looking at death, doctors said I was critical after 10 days in a coma, so yeah I am sure I can get my life back. Watching how you brought the tools back to life I had to aswell. So great job🙂
You should have used a unique piece of metal to avoid all the useless comments about getting new bolts. Also you should have started the video by saying that Coke is acidic enough to remove light rust to avoid all the useless comments on Coke. Great demonstration.
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Very educational! The use of scraps etc., demonstrates an economical approach to the difficult process removal of rust for the hobbyist.
*For idiots commenting about the waste of time about these nuts and bolts. It's just an example for the process that it's applicable for some other items
👍
Very cool. I see the answer as to why this method is preferred over sandblasting. Great video.
Two days work for $10 worth of nuts and bolts, lol. Makes no sense to me but thanks for the great lesson! (I realize this could be useful for a lot of stuff.)
Hi Jeff thanks for your comment, the point of this video is not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts (its just an example for heavy rust). The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some vintage car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part and without damaging it, ;-)
*****
Yeah, this would certainly be the best if not only option for hard to replace parts. Unfortunately though you always lose some material as rust literally eats away the metal so I don't think I'd ever want to try and reuse a bolt which had serious rust issues. Certainly many get to a point of non-useability regardless of how much cleaning is done. Looks like the ones in your video are still useable though. I've actually got a whole trailer I wish I could do this to but would obviously be hard to do with large objects.
Jeff Chartier you keep writing about bolts....
Ok???
troll...
Outstanding! My father - in - law brought up removing rust with vinegar and I came across your video. Unreal! Great job on the video.
Thanks, I am happy you enjoyed the video.
interesting educational video, after reading about 1,000,000 of the comments, i didnt realize rust removal could be so controversial lol. u gotta be makin cash on those over 3,000,000 views!👍i liked it
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i havent messed around with this since i was kid ,but keeps your mind on something better than nothing .casting is a must sometimes
There are too many extremely naive people making comments here. RESTORATIONS!
That is the value in this. There are many many many various items made of metal that are collector pieces. These items hold value much better when they have original parts.
Most folks who restore doit as a hobby and enjoy transforming a rusted heap into a beautiful bike, for example. There is a big dollar value in restoring original pieces.
I'm from India. I salute you sir..You reduce my working time by half...
There are two kinds of people. Those who solve problems with intricate and creative solutions, and those who solve it with money! You decide what you wanna be.
I just watched the video and read down this far. The comments all come from trolls and people who didn't actually read the information in the video.
The whole point of the video was to demonstrate a method of rust removal that can be used on parts that cannot easily be replaced at a store. A method that does not take off any of the non-rusty metal. Useful, for example, on the inside of gun barrels. Sometimes we find a "deal" on a gun that has been stored poorly and needs loving care for restoration. This seems like a good method for that.
There are only 1 kind of person its called fixers. Fixers get you things you need. You can pay others to fix your stuff or fix it yourself. Sure its nice to fix every single thing out there on your own but why have to go through the trouble of knowing how to fix cars when you are a vet for instance and that is your main interest. You fix someones pet and they might fix your car simple exchange.
Ash Ketchum
On the whole I agree with you but I guess the main reason why I study medicine so that I can cure my cat AND I enjoy learning how to remove rust from bolts is that KNOWLEDGE is power. To some it is trouble, to some, learning new stuff could be the hobby in itself. also, I know how to fix my car and yet I might still take it to the mechanic or I might take my cat to the vet, however in many cases I tell them what to do. Once the vet actually challenged me and he went to google to prove me wrong and guess what it was my article he picked up!!! yes I am a ghost writer and write about anything and if I challenge someone like a vet on something it might be because I own the search engines for the keyword! hahah.
I'm going to be using this same method on a 70 year old Briggs & Stratton engine. Thanks for the detailed video. Because new parts are not available or are very hard to find.
I was waiting for eggs, screaming, and things being smashed but that's another guy who doesn't talk in his videos.
Yeah Australia is full of HowToBasics.
Jim Garrisonpo
Jim Garrison
I just tried, because I had 50 pounds of citric acid in the garage that I use for zinc removal, to put very rusty horse shoes into a solution of water + citric acid. Evidently, thinking that it wouldn't do much since citric acid is rather weak, it totally worked and even removed the annoying black rust that is hard to remove most of the time. Electric removal is obviously the best choice but for those who can't get that done, can always go for citric acid. It will work within 48 hours or so and do a much better job than vinegar for example (and will not smell either).
Thanks for sharing. This will come in handy for when I clean up my Dads old tools that his Dad gave him.
Repairing is better than replacing. This video showed some old nuts and bolts but it is a great way to remove rust from irreplaceable mechanical components
"...this just proves how efficient this method is."
Indeed
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Great video. After electrolysis I'd recommend bathing the metal parts in diluted muratic acid and then a neutralizing baking soda solution to remove the residual rust and dirt (WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!) before final treatment with WD-40 or other rust-inhibitive solvent. FYI, I've also used used motor oil on bare hardware such as outdoor furniture fasteners exposed to the weather, submerging the parts and then absorbing the excess with a rag, and I've had great results with it as a rust-inhibitor.
Definitely one of the best setups I've seen for electrolysis!
Some of what he has there iS expensive. Good job. I love seeing this kind of dedication to recycling.
Instructions unclear, i ended up summoning a demon!
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thanks for the video. I'm sure there are alot of people trying to restore things like classic cars and want to clean up parts that cannot be replaced.
Really cool! I'm gonna try that if I find some rusted stuff! Excellent video!
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Wow, nice of you to do all of the steps needed to make it happen. The quick way to get rid of rust is using Blackstar Rust Converter - Spray on and your done.
All I can say is "wow".
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I did this to some rusty saw blades. The rust came off. I am well pleased.
Hey all of you dealing with corrosion problems and rust. As a professional fastener man I will strongly recommend all of you that plan a reuse of the bolts and nuts after having them de rusted in any way not to do so. The reason is simple. The rust may cause both surface and internal flaws to the bolts. A rust pit become a stress riser and will reduce the fatigue life of a bolt being exposed to dynamic forces. The same happens internally in the material under influence of corrosive environment and dynamic stress. The rust will penetrate deeper and deeper until the stress area of the bolt is to small to sustain the stress level felt by the bolt with havoc as a result. My good advice to you guys : throw all the old bolts away and buy some new with a protective coating or in a corrosion resistant material. Just look out for the right grade marking on the head or on the nut. Washers should not be made of mild steel.
Have a nice day
Olav Boee
Thanks for the very clear instructions to suit all nationalities with eyes that see !!
to everyone that think acid is a better idea I dont recommend it. Acid gives off fumes that can be hazardous. My wife has been using electrolysiy for rust removal off old tools for some time now. She sells them in flea markets and they fetch a nice price...Most heve been free. She cleaned some horseshoes that were estimated to be 100 years old found in an old gold miners cabin...They did have pitting but were still pretty strong and had plenty of metal on them. As for cheaper to buy new bolts...of course it is..they were just used as an example...get real!!
Jimmy Tate - Cheaper, but less satisfying! If your metal is pitted, the acid (white vinegar) rust removal techniques will enlarge the pitting. Found that out on a piece of railroad rail.
such a gadget. world with be reallly boring place without the people like you.
Not a ping on the OP, but maybe if the title used words like 'antique' and 'restoration' there might be less confusion.
Then again, people could take the time to watch the entire video and read the descriptions...
Love this technique, BTW.
I have used electrolysis in the following projects:
1. Rust removal, as per video.
2. Making potassium perchlorate using carbon electrodes and salt substitute. Don't ask.
3. Metal contouring using selective anode-side etching. Sort of like reverse electroplating.
Using the etching process, I made a series or knives and two swords.
Cool thing about etching is that the base metal can be fully hardened and tempered!
The process does not harm the metals grain-structure, unlike grinding [hot spots].
It is kind of slow, about 1/32 inch removal in 20 minutes.
Then again, the removal is even across the entire work surface...
Greg Gallacci I like electrolysis compared to acid since you can turn it off and on and adjust the current as you like with a constant current setup. My late 1970's school project featured electrolytic etching of copper plated circuit boards using copper sulphate plus a final finish with ferric chloride. I also used sodium chloride to erode a stainless steel rod to fit a hole and I didn't have any tool to shape it then. I didn't know about chromium hazards then. This is about 2 decades before google/wikipedia.
Excellent! I have known of this method but never tried it. Your rig great...I will start building one right away THANKS!!
u did this video very well but i gotta say man..do we live near a rail road or an old ship yard or an historic resadent cause i high doubt you will find random rusty bits layin around lol
jerkygirlx - Take a walk sometime, in any populated area and be observant, you will be surprised at what you find.
I tried it, on an old, very old, irrepairable tractor, it works
did a second stage, using zinc (roof flashing) sacrificial anodes after the parts were clean, now I have galvanised tractor parts, good for 50 more years,
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Don't forget to wash your hands before eating
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Malt vinegar? And then it gets filtered through a sock, and used for salad dressing. On a more serious side, that is a really well thought out system. I have seen a 50/50 anti-freeze solution used in a heat treating shop as a rust stop after wet sand blasting steel parts. Again, a good and useful show.
Use care when doing this. Only perform this task outdoors. The hydrogen gas given off from this process easily explodes when near a flame or spark. I use an inflatable baby swimming pool to derust old moped rims. You can reverse this process using clean water and washing soda with a good sacrificial metal like a large chain and sometimes fill small holes in a part. I use Arm and Hammer washing soda for the solution. It is Carbonate of Soda. If you don't have any, dump a box of Bicarbonate of Soda on a cookie sheet and place in an oven at 375 degrees F. Stir the pile every 15 min. for a half hour to hour. Instead of a battery charger I use a 1o amp Astron power supply like used in CB or ham radio. Be careful and keep the area dry and use a GFCI for outside safety on your power cords.
DAVE WAYNE Reverse the process?? Sounds great 👍.
Do tell. 😅
Would a cell phone 120v input.....5v 1 amp DC charger output work??
For those who are fans of acid treatment. Yes, it works. Worked for me, especially concentrated sulphuric.. But it's acid, bad stuff. Phosphoric treatments are expensive for a tiny bottle. One major merit of this is that washing soda is acceptable for your drains, and safe.
HI Bob, thanks for your comment. 3 comments that I get from time to time for de-rusting methods. Here are the top three:
1.Muriatic acid,
2.Sand blasting,
3.Wire buffing wheel.
All three method will do the job however they do have their disadvantages as you have pinpointed one regrading Muriatic acid.
I will summarize again my past comments for the top 3 fans, as I get this comments again and again.
1.Muriatic acid,
Danger of using chemicals such as Hydrochloric/Mutric acid, Very hazardous in case of skin contact, mist may produce tissue damage particularly on mucous membranes of eyes, mouth and respiratory tract. Skin contact may produce burns. Inhalation of the spray mist may produce severe irritation of respiratory tract, characterized by coughing, choking, or shortness of breath. Severe over-exposure can result in death. I prefer a safer method -;)
2.Sand blasting,
Majority of the people don't have a sand blasting cabinet in their garage/shed and they are are definitely not going to buy one if they need to de-rust an object once a year. The electrolysis method offers a a quick and cheap solution for anyone that wants to get rid of the rust in a very efficient way.
3.Wire buffing wheel:
with electrolysis rust removal process you are not limited to the size of the object to be De-rusted. You could actually De-rust big a car frame with this method. With wire wheel you are limited to small objects, its messy, you will scratch the work piece and you will not be able to remove rust from odd shaped objects. Wire wheel can remove too much material and cause damage, whereas electrolysis will not damage the metal of the original part.
The bolts that I De-rusted in this video are EXTREMELY rusted. For light rust the process is effortless. Also with electrolysis rust removal process there is no limitation to the size of the object to be De-rusted. You could actually De-rust big a car frame with this method.
cool now how do i do this to my entire car?
dsouzand If you did that there would be nothing left
sandblast, if too rusty ; cut out and new metal > no other option!
Hahahhhh
Get a very big plastic bucket
alex1337bm bondo 🤔🤔
I have a buddy who does this & has cleaned engine parts with the system. It seems to work really well. I have built similar things myself too, though I was usually doing it to capture the hydrogen & oxygen gasses, not to clean rusty metal objects.
almost DIY porn...
so cool to see those bolts at the end.
Lol, Thanks for your comment ;-)
*****
I've watched some of the other videos on youtube about this method, and yours seems to have produced the best results..
Great video! Thanks to share your method. I will use it in the future, saves me from huge expenses. And congratulation for your patient, to explain over and over again, the rusty bolts are just for explanation .
Brand new as when it was bought 50 years ago.
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HCl is Muriatic Acid available from hardware stores. I use Sulfuric Acid drain cleaner available from Lowes, wear rubber gloves, make a dilute solution of it by adding small amounts to water (NEVER add water to acid), and it eats the rust away in minutes. You have to be very careful. Then I rinse thoroughly in baking soda solution, thoroughly dry, and coat with WD40
Why didn't you just soaked them in coca cola?
Very heavy rust, coca cola will not remove the rust properly. Coca cola is efficient for light rusty objects.
*****
I Agree here .
Also, the phosphoric acid In the cola will dissolve the rust, removing it in the process so you will lose material but this method converts the rust back into metal, thus you don't lose any material and therefore the strength of the original component is retained.
roythearcher Incorrect, the rust does not convert back to the part, thats impossible. But electrolysis will remove less parent material than an acid will...
YZFoFittie
I would say, nothing is impossible but, granted, the process to convert the "rust" back to the original parent component would be too complex and difficult to be viable for this exercise.. but I bet there's a clever enough chemist out there, (not me!) who could do it...
+WCephei77HD Cola? What on earth?
That is a very clever way to waste electricity. All you need is acid of some sort. I have a very smooth 1/2" drive ratchet that was solidly rusted in place when I got it. Took it apart & soaked all the working end pieces in some CLR bathroom fixture cleaner for a while then sprayed it with baking soda water to neutralize the acid. Then I applied wd-40 to drive off the moisture. A little wire brushing followed by re-assembling the bugger with some axel grease stuffed into it & It's been my favorite as well as the smoothest operating 1/2" drive ratchet I've ever owned.
Yeah, his electric bills must be astronomical. That's why I use a solar powered electrolysis bath.
60-80 watts per hour, same as running a fridge, I dont think he does this for a living, he might just do this once or twice a month
Not at all, I use this method maybe once or twice a year no impact over my electric bills believe me, 12V will not make you go bankrupt ;-)
Buy a grinder from an estate sale for $10 and you will be able to do the same thing more or less, for some of your item at least. Good information though.
Hi Arthur, Thanks for your comment, using a grinder will damage the object to be de-rusted. Electrolysis rust removal method clears all the rust only and do not damage the item. For example if you had to restore some rusty vintage part, you wouldn't want to damage it with grinder.
***** I guest it depends on how long the item has rusted. If it is ten or twenty years, it may be ok. But if it is a hundred year old item, the rusted surface will not be smooth anyway, unless you have really high quality steel.
+Aharon m i heard electrolysis makes the metal weaker
+Arthur Hau grinding sucks
+Arthur Hau a Grinder would no matter how delicately handled will always damage the object regardless of age, electrolysis would only attack the rust and leave the object without any scratches, no matter how old the object is. So electrolysis is always the better option of the two. Hundred year old items are considered antiques in most cases in will always be treated with the most care and delicacy regardless, so electrolysis would always be your best bet, unless of course you don't care about the object. Grinding is always worse fr rust removal since you would always have to wear some form of protection as it makes for a lot of noise and not to mention a lot of dust. Grinding only makes sense when you are cleaning of slag from welding or have to grind or remove a lot of material fast. In the case of the video it would make no sense to even pick up a grinder since you'd pretty much make all the bolts useless, since you'd be damaging the threads on them, just my 2 cents on it.
The autobody repair industry uses something called Rust-Mort to 're-galvanize' body panels which have been sanded to bare metal. I have used Rust-Mort for nearly 40 years in a much simpler low voltage process.
The rust is removed AND the fasteners are rust-proofed. I have fasteners in my bolts bins I did in the '80's which have been in unheated garages, in Oregon, since then. They STILL have never rusted.
Also, as long as the fasteners are free of grease, I've never had to do any cleaning of dirt. It's gone after the process, and the fasteners are a grayish-green color, and completely clean when done.
The process SHOULD generate some heat. Enough to warm the fluid used.
I just used a stainless bowl, and clamped the power connector to a large bolt in the bottom, and dumped the fasteners on top, (after tumbling them in solvent t remove grease.)
We used to get 5 gallon buckets of fasteners from a local auto wrecker. We traded sheet metal and other scrap parts for them. We bought a lot of parts from them for our body shop, so they were open to trading.
NEAT TRICK BUT THE BOLT THREADS ARE POROUS AND BRITTLE NOW, WILL NOT HOLD MUCH TORQUE AS A FRESHLY MADE UNRUSTED BOLT. ANY CASE HARDENING ON BOLTS WILL BE COMPROMISED. THIS IS ONLY GOOD FOR THINGS THAT ARE NOT GOING TO BEAR MUCH LOAD OR CRITICAL APPLICATIONS, JUST BASIC HARDWARE FOR LIGHT DUTY IS ALL. I WOULDN'T TRUST THOSE BOLTS ON MY ENGINE, OR BRAKES.
Thanks for your comment, trust me I will not use rusty bolts that went through electrolysis processes for any mechanical part. This process is mainly for restoration parts, rusty tools etc'.
OK, SO YOU WOULD USE IT ON A RUSTY TOO, THEN DEPEND ON THAT TOOL NOT TO BREAK OR SNAP UNDER LOAD OR CHIP AND SEND A SHARD INTO YOUR EYE OR FACE? Hmmm...
autoparts321 Judging from your name 'Autoparts' it would most likely be in your best interest for people to to buy new from you if applicable!
Thank you for pointing out that one has to be careful, but your reply was unnecessary to be honest. You yourself said in your first post that "JUST BASIC HARDWARE FOR LIGHT DUTY IS ALL"
And the caps lock key is on the left of the keyboard :)
No kidding, geez, "auto parts",lighten up!
In case you have forgotten it's generally consider rude to type in all caps as it is considered yelling
I skip all of the hard labor and just spray on Blackstar Rust Converter. One hour later its done - no more rust, and I can go back to what I was doing. It looks like fun though what your doing in the video. Fun with chemistry!
cheaper to buy new ones
It’s about techniques. This applies to parts that are difficult to replace.
Hi Aharon, doing some nuts and bolts mysel man, cleanin up the jeep and I use Molasses with the water. Saves all da lectric. mix the molasses 9:1 with the water - leave for 2 weeks in the bath - come out truly shining - no need hanging around, scrubbin and polishin man - all don when you get them out of the bath. like your video, and you have lots of time good
Soak a rusted part in white vinegar.
Why not acid
Anti oxidizing acid?
+Dingus Bloke That to.
How about zoidberg brand acid?
+Dingus Bloke Im not sure.
Lol don't you get the joke XD
Would be good for engine parts, in restoration or anything really.
It impressive how well the physics & chemical process has on the metals.
lol its $2 dollar scrap for $20 dollars electricity bill .
go way ye ejet
You missed the point of this video its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts. The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some old car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part, believe me this is as cheap as it gets, you should check with your electric supplier your bills as you might be overcharged "$20 dollars electricity bill" ;-)
soak in muriatic acid in a well ventilated area. wear gloves and eye protection and a respirator or hold your breath while around it. when you are done, you can neutralize the acid solution with regular baking soda until done bubbling. then it is safe to pour down drain. can be picked up at most hardware and pool supply stores.
WWI bolts and nuts! Highly historic value...lol.
Good vid.About three years ago I de rusted a Raglan lathe that I bought off ebay with this method.Process is a bit dirty, but it's effective and cheap.I had to resort to using our Rainwater Butt for the lathe bed,what a mess!.
This is too much work, use muriatic acid and then replate the nuts and bolts with zinc electrolysis.
Love this video.. no talking or bullshit music. Simples. Thanks
im just gonna spend $40 to clean old bolts because im to cheap to buy new bolts for $.30
lol
You missed the point... again.
You are paying to much for you vinegar and soda crystals if your spending $40. Plus many nuts and bolts with fine threads special sizes etc can cost $5 each or more.
You missed the point of this video its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts (BTW I don't know where you came with the $40 figure) . The purpose of this video is to introduce an excellent method of how to remove rust in a quick and very efficient way. For example If you had some old car part that you want to restore will you go and buy a new part? I think not, then you will look for alternative methods of cleaning the rusty part, believe me this is as cheap as it gets ;-)
***** most times when you have corroded parts which need to be replaced, you are better off getting a new part as the integrity of the part is reduced due to corrosion.
Very good guidance. Thank you! By the way, PC power unit can be used instead of car battery charger.
Its cool but im not really that impressed. I could get the same results if i put it on a wire buffing wheel for a few seconds and then rinse it in gasoline
there are some ...corners inside, that you cannot approach ! So, this is a good solution.
A good job for someone who's doing time!!
Cool video, but wouldn't it be cheaper and less time consuming to just get new boots
Dominique Haupt
NO IT WOULDN'T,the hardware he showed is worth a couple hundred dollars
+wayne smith where the hell do you live? A couple hundred dollars?!? Not so much, son.
+Dominique Haupt He was just using the nuts and bolts as examples. This is best for vintage parts no longer available, or expensive parts.
Or wd40 lol
+Dominique Haupt Read the yellow part at 0:23 then it should all make sense
it might cost alot to de-rust bolts but its also good for de-rusting small historical items like probably a metal dagger
this guy spend more time and other stuff then those bolts are worth? My opinion go and get new bolt unless it is one of a kind.
Hi Igor thank for your comment, If you look at my video at point (0;24) I did mention that the purpose of this video is to demonstrate a great rust removal method, its not about wasting time cleaning rusty bolts.
***** Very well said, sir.
Igor Vidakovic hehehehe new bolts... how would people learn how to make such a procedure if they were always focused on buying the new stuff instead ....
+Iggy rockabilly read the yellow box at 0:23 then it will all make sense. Read it
+Lalaland i did and I went to store and back got my shine new bolt before this movie ended. I get the procedure but what I dont get that it is very useful for guy like me that need one bolt i a blue moon. It will cost me more battery charger and soda then my new bolt of few cents
in north of england we put all rusty stuff in a bucket of malt vinager...overnite just stirring now and then ..works real well
New bolts are cheap....less than your time and supplies to do this. PLUS, threaded fasteners that are badly rusted have lost much material from the threads; they will not accept proper torque before they strip. Interesting science experiment, but not really feasible.
I use this non-stop now. Cheap. Easy. Effective, but mostly, and this is the best bit, lazy! Feel free to kit up and use a rotary wire wheel, I'll be drinking coffee. Thank you mr. AM.
Damn, for the cost he spend on cleaning them,
He could had bought 5 sets of new bolts and other pieces :|
+Chandraprakash G (சந்திரப்பிரகாஷ்) are you stupid, of course he can buy a new set, the purpose of this video is to show how de-rusting method works, and how to do it .
he bought new ones at the end for sure 100% u would never get them that clean unless new there gleaming black they were grey at start with rust now black . strange don't be fooled
Dillan kadri dont be an idiot and try it for yourself, i cleaned screws and bolts from an old motorcycle using this method,and works 100%, You can find many youtubers using the same method
Let me guess. You rode the short bus in school didn't you?
roast king
I do not get it. This guy makes a great informative video that teaches you one way for removing rust and everyone needs to say that they can do it quicker? Is it not beneficial to know multiple ways of accomplishing your goals? How about just the value of learning something for free. I have been using this method for metal detecting finds for years. I assure you this is the best way to remove the rust and keep your piece in its close to original form. Great video!
Rob The Plumber
This is very helpful if you can't find original parts.
Came for the rust removal, stayed for the Scooby-Doo scramble sound effects at 6:28.
I don't know why but this video makes me feel better
Putting them in a bucket of molasses mixed down with water will give you the same results, soaked an entire john deere 48 inch deck in some and came out perfect. Finding farm grade molasses is probably hardest part though, Rural King or TSC is a good place to look.
Nice job man !. nice to see people recycling the old and making use for it all , most people would have put that in landfill which is a shame tbh. great work !
Hi thanks for your comment, some peoples scarp is other people treasure :-)
4:58 That *should* say make sure the parts you derusting are not touching both electrodes. You could throw the negative electrode (attached to the part) directly in the water, it won't hurt it.
Awesome Video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. I have a pair of harley tanks that have some light surface rust on the inside. This will do a superb job! =)
unbelievable! thanks for taking the time to post this.
It's nice to tell you what devices you're using.
other videos don't have this
There are many video's on here covering the anodising process,the caswell inc video is a good one to watch ,they are a very helpful company with unbeatable knowledge of the process(and no i don't work for them lol)
For the final polishing, you should make a tumbler, put the parts in it with sand and let it tumble for a while.
Cool! One must respect the chemistry.
Cool very educational ... I file this in the library upstairs for future use ..
Thank you. Satellite antenna clamps were rusted, I cleaned.