Steve, I am a retired Jet Engine Technician, USAF and we used peanut butter for lubrication of the bearings in our jet engines. You are the first civilian I have heard of using it for race bearings outside of the military. The engines I worked on spun at over 30000 rpm and I never had bearing seizures. Everything on Jet engines are wet torqued and I see automobile engines are dry torqued unless it's called for antiseize to be used. I am glad to see the care you take when assembling your engines! I would have every confidence running your engines at the rpm's and hp you built it for.
I work in oe engine reman world and i promise you every major OE manufacturer we deal with requires head and main bolts torqued with a lubricant. Now there a few headbolts that use a dry lube coating but its still a lube. Going in true dry is a recipe for a thread and final torque failure rate.
@@rojoe3455 incorrect. Kia specify 'dry, no lubricant' in the workshop manual for the head bolts on some of their V6 engines, with an aluminium cylinder block. Consequently, I do a lot of thread repairs for pulled threads, even on motors that have never been over heated, have only done low kms/ miles, and have never even had the rocker covers off. How do I know they haven't been over heated, the first thing we do is check the hardness of the block.
I like the sound of the Terminator movin around in the background. Makes it feel more like an actual working shop, instead of a magical world of make-believe where giant high powered engines jus seem to be "willed" into existence ; )
Ohhhh, I remember peanut butter from the Navy. That's cool 😎 good dog, supervision. I like the explanation on the cam bearings. I appreciate the detailed explanation 🤘🏻🇺🇸
Showing the issues you run into with a custom combination like this should help people understand why it costs so much to do. Thanks for sharing a real build where things don’t go perfectly through the magic of editing.
Just awesome. Love how high tech everything is, yet it’s all so simple common sense… Oil support rails always fail with big power high cylinder pressure… simple solution put a chunk of aluminum in the pin hole to support it solidly… so simple.
What did you think I meant about the big chunks of aluminum when I was referring to the oil ring support system… That idea should’ve been implemented in every race engine ever built with wrist pin interference since people have been modifying engines…
Always fun fitting new parts. I think it’s Detroit Diesel that makes the “peanut butter” though. I used to use it assembling 2 stroke Detroit’s. Cheers.
Yep you're right it's Detroit Diesel that makes the peanut butter I seen a video with a team putting together top fuel engine and that's exactly what they said too
I found you through Tom Bailey a couple years ago,i definitely have much respect for you. Your the man,you put cleeter on the map your high level sir,I hope for incredible success for you.
I know i’m not the only one blowing at the phone screen, triying to get the chips off the rod. 🤣 Thank you Mr Steve for showing us and explaining us the process of assembling one of these engines. Even tho most of us can’t afford one of these engines, a lot of the knowledge you are sharing with us can be applied to our applications.
Thank you Steve for being so confident in the quality of your product that you you show the build. Keep kicking ass brother. You deserve more followers, Keep working with Cleetus, I'm sure I speak for others when I say we like seeing you there.
If there is one take away from this is that there are no shortcuts in performance engine building it's the details that come back to bite you and it's experience that recognizes and fixes those details ...Thank you for leaving in the details most others would have cut out it really shows you are confident enough to not gloss thing over for a flashy perfect build video .
The videos you are now producing have gone beyond educational, and into the realm of ‘good for humanity’. You are showing future generations how to do it right to high tolerance, while making adjustments via skill and tools. Showing the detail of mock-up, clearancing as needed, assembly while still watching for appropriately tight tolerance, AND showing when not right make right by disassembly rinse/repeat - this is generational knowledge being shown and passed on. 🙏 and a Happy 4th of July to you and yours 👍👊🇺🇸🤘
Steve enjoy your little furry buddy as much as you can while you can. My pit-lab mix shop boss followed me everywhere for 15 years and spent every hour in the shop with me that I did. The last 2 years he has been retired to the house as he really struggled moving on the slick concrete anymore. Now I fear he is in his final days as I have to help him up all the time to get him moving. After all these years going to be super tough losing my shop boss. Best boss I ever had!
Excellent insight on issues can sometimes arise when new parts are utilized as was the case with the connecting rod clearances and the processes used to resolve them. As an aside, your knee mill's head needs some TLC. A company we utilize for everything Bridgeport parts related is H&W Machine Repair in Indiana. Great family owned small business to work with and they're always there to assist on the nuances in tear down and assembly when replacing worn parts. Cheers!
Doggo left you a present @ 9:30 in the video lol. I have worked in race / custom / hot-rod shops for a couple decades. I have been perpetually lucky over the years to have worked with some amazing people that have zero issue and go out of their way to share what they have learned. I have made it a point to do the same. The effort Steve is making, and the knowledge he is passing along shows how stand up he is. Remember people, he doesn't have to do this. I am sure the income from these videos isn't that profitable when you factor in the time and effort making the videos take. The best way to ensure that people will be building and racing rad cars for the years to come is hot-rodders supporting hot-rodders. So if you are one of the crusty f*cks who think there is some sort of advantage, benefit or "power" to not share what you have learned, or not help your fellow hot-rodders, you are the literal worse thing in the lifestyle. If you get some sort of enjoyment out of watching someone struggle, or do something incorrectly and sit back and say nothing so you can laugh about it afterwards - go trade your cool car in for a Kia Rio cause you and your small d*ck energy don't deserve this hobby / industry - period.
Its so crazy to watch how such a powerful engine goes back together with different engine builders. I was with Joe Gibbs Racing engine shop -Chevy and Toyota- for 14 yrs. The only thing we didnt make or alter was the block and crank. Maybe some pulleys. I mean we made everything. Its crazy and so much easier to see how all these 3rd party parts are so much easier. We had to hone the block, cylinders and cam tunnel. Hone all pistons for pin, hone bearing while in the rod by crank specs. Distributor housing, rocker arms and more probably. That was nothing compared to touching almost every part on that engine to make it better. It is so weird watching one man do this when it took us a week with 40 guys in individual rooms doing specific jobs. I love watching Steve work and learn things i didnt know.
thank you Steve for such an awesome informational video. although I stopped wrenching after my accident left me disabled I still love watching and learning how people do their own builds with their own personal touch. love your content
Thanks for having sleeves like that. Never understood why more guys don't. Coming from someone that used to hone blocks, sleeve blocks these type sleeves make the guy honing blocks life easier. 21-23* BTDC is peak cylinder pressure.
As a retired aircraft engine tech I believe BTDC is used for ingnition timing to allow flame front progress allowing for peak gas pressure to drive piston down. If peak gas pressure is to early the piston cannot move down pressure temp can cause instant detonation explosion....
Thank you for taking the time to show us some of your tips and tricks. Plus sharing your knowledge of the automotive engine. things not all engine builders would do
It's great to see you take attention to detail first. I'm a racer from the late sixty's early seventy's were speed parts were not plentiful and you had to make your own! just like you are doing today!!! keep up the great work!!!
Hey Steve, great video of your race engine building techniques! As an engine builder myself, when I'm assembling the oil ring rails... I found that by installing the top rail first you then have a guide to slide the bottom rail in without fighting getting caught on the expander rail as your installing the bottom rail. Another improvement we did was get a diamond grinding wheel for the total seal ring filer, much easier to cut those steel hard top rings and more consistent with amount removed on the ring butts.
watching cleeter beet er on the track allready, its cool to watch the scientist behind it all!! ill have to keep up with this guy now so i can be guessing what cleetus will get from him next!!
Lycoming aircraft engines use a similar setup with the buttons on the pins. Some are aluminum and some are bronze. Continental on the other hand uses a integrated button that's part of the pin out of aluminum. Only difference is that the pen sits below the oil control ring. The pins are held in by cylinder itself.
So much fun when you change one part, have to modify it and other things 3-4 times but dont realize whats needed at each modification point until you are deeper and deeper with the build lol, thats the issues that can cause delays that some customers dont comprehend and say....well its new parts and they should fit🤦🏻♂️
Man I wish I was over there at that shop because I could probably just learn a lot just by watching you guys Minds me when I was 16 doing that with my neighbor like that or actually 14 14s when I built my first motor
Dude you are awesome and so very knowledgeable. Love your videos. By the way I’m gonna go out on a limb and say those bearing sleeves are sets of 32. Keep up the good work brother.
I've watched and learned from your videos for years and I wanted to buy a hat so, I did a search for your website and found out you're located in Muskegon my home town ?! 🤯
Unless you are doing something proprietary in your surfacing it might be interesting for the guys to see some of the surfacing op going on in the background. I've seen it many times for a few minutes it's fascinating. It might help explain why you have to charge what you do for your work
Steve I would like to see how you determine piston rod and head and valve to determine engine horsepower and cubic displacement and all that fun stuff thank you for the videos
Would love to hear your thoughts on the Aussie ford Barra engine, have seen them with 500k + miles pulled out of taxis and turbod and make good power with some engine work. They seem to have a lot of potential for a stock block!
So just one small comment. You're right that it takes less force to completely shear a bolt than to "pull" it apart, but as I'm sure you know, Bolts STRETCH!!! So in comparison, it takes much more force to SHEAR a bolt off, especially when the connecting metals are right up against each other, like a GM LS Engine, compared to just stretching a bolt. Stretching requires much much less force. Back years ago, I used to see SBC head bolts stretch all the time, sometimes even just torquing them. That's why a lot of people went to studs, as they don't stretch due to the different material, however than "can" still stretch and usually will before snapping off. From you design, I'd take those main caps and extend the sides over to the edge of the block so you could still add in cross bolts which I would think would help to overall just increase the strength of the block. Just a thought.
Hey, you got my shirt on!👍 Every time the big brother Caprice puts another victim on the trailer, my Roadmaster struts around like a second grader who just got picked first in the latest dodge ball game.😁
Do you ever heat, cryo, etc. treat your moving parts? A Steve Tech video on coatings and treatments of moving parts would be cool. MotoIQ's Mike Kojima swears by treatments like WPC and others on his race engines.
Hello my name is joe from Peterborough England relay enjoy your show remembering wot i was tort 30 years ago at college love the in-depth tech i billed all my engines trying to get reliable and power for my land rovers keep experimenting with different things i pick up of shows like you i to have a dog she is with me 24/7 love of my life ps keep up the fantastic content
It wouldent wear a line on the bore as the 2nd ring and controll ring would swipe that spot. but its true that rings do rotate, Thats why 2 stroke engines have pins to stop the ring rotation as they have ports in the Cylinder.. Just came accross your chan today and love the content! Thank you. Im a mechanical engineer in the U.K just out of intrest what dose an engine like that cost? That billet engine most must cost a fortune? Theres not much af this sort of thing in the U.K
I'm sure it will never happen, but if that rod ever bends, things are going to even more "grenade like" than just your average peep hole into the block. Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but it makes me cringe a bit. Thank you Steve for the education, I have learned more from you than I could ever imagine, I am most grateful. Thank you sir!
I enjoy the sounds of the cnc's running in the back ground right at the 9min there was a long ball in the mill doing a semi ruff or a finish pass at a high feed rate. And at 14.28 mm he had a mill doing some ruffing with the deep growl. But Steve if you are looking for a shop to possibly do some production or proto typing work. Check out quest industries Inc there out of lapeer mi. May be able to get you a faster delivery time.
More times than not when I have had any internal component fail (push rod tip fail, piston delete itself, lifter fail, rocker arm, etc) I have had to replace cam, main, and rod bearings because “trash” from the failed part(s) had become embedded in the bearing. Additionally if the failed part is a hardened steel 99% of the the crank and or cam at the very least needs to polished. I also have used Detroit Diesel International Compound #2 aka “Peanut-Butter” (Detroit Diesel part # 5198563 in a 2Lb-10oz can) for several decades and is my fastener lube of choice. A buddy of mine purchased a can of it from Fitzgerald Truck parts last year and said it cost him 70 bucks which seems like a lot of money but unless you are rebuilding an engine a day it’s probably a life time supply. I have piece of 1.5 ID tubing about 3” long that I have weld a piece of 1/4 piece of steel to seal the bottom and formed a piece of thin sheet metal as a cap with an acid bush sticking through it to paint clean fasteners with a thin layer before assembly. Years ago I worked at a shop that had a squeeze tube crimping machine and the parts department used to fill 1/2, 1, 2, and 4 ounce “tooth paste” tubes with different things to control shop material costs as well as making them easily billable as well as sellable to other shops and customers off the street. Note if you have been using a different fastener lubricant you should seriously consider rechecking clearances because different lubricants can give different fasteners tightness as opposed to torque resulting in different bearing crush/clearances.
Steve great content as always. I just want to point out that I have never seen piston rings in any 2 cycle engine leave grooves in cylinders at the end gaps. They are pinned to keep them from rotating and snagging ports.
@@stevemorrisracing 2 cycles used steel sleeves long before chrome, nikosil, etc was invented. The Dykes type piston rings used in many early outboards and motorcycles increased tension with compression and left no end gap groove either. I am not saying that 4 strokes need pinned rings but I seriously doubt they would wear a groove if they didn't rotate. Your pistons might even benefit being pinned as it would keep the two weakest areas separated. The end gaps and the pin buttons. I think the pin Buttons would provide better ring support if they were a press fit too. However assembly would suck having to freeze them to Insert and would require a custom too to get them aligned. Have a wonderful day, you have some of the best content on You Tube for us motorheads.
Nice build! Why do the hoops go into the heads and the receiver groove in the block? Old way used to be to put the o- ring in the block and receiver groove the head. Thanks
Yeah I wonder if he re-balanced. I'm sure it didn't amount to much. This is an area I would like to be educated on. I recently was going to use a different rod bearing than what my rotating assembly was balanced with, and I thought I better weigh these things, and found out that just one half insert was 4 grams different. So I wonder how important this is, I know people turn cranks and renew bearings all the time with no re-balanced or ill effects. Of course the reciprocating weight vs rotating weight, one may be more important than the other.
@@joshr8680 yes rotating would stay balanced but I think you have to factor in the reciprocating weight and calculate bobweight to counter the counterweights.
Sure would like to know my way around power the way you n your people do Steve I've tried for years Every time I get close Life has had other plans for me I'm so about what you Folks do Enjoyed listening in🙂
At 13:08 Steve talks about shear VS tention load on bolts, I completely agree with him on that! The Industrial Fastener Institute (Inch Fastener Standards, 7th ed. 2003. B-8) states that shear strength is approximately 60% of the minimum tensile strength. “As an empirical guide, shear strengths of carbon steel fasteners may be assumed to be approximately 60 percent of their specified minimum tensile strengths.
Even in a high tech engine shop, you still have a shop dog. Man's best friend.
Steve demonstrating the old adage “trust but verify” in checking/measuring all the bearings. Attention to detail is the key with good engine building.
Big 10/4 on the ball mike, done it for years.
Steve, I am a retired Jet Engine Technician, USAF and we used peanut butter for lubrication of the bearings in our jet engines. You are the first civilian I have heard of using it for race bearings outside of the military. The engines I worked on spun at over 30000 rpm and I never had bearing seizures. Everything on Jet engines are wet torqued and I see automobile engines are dry torqued unless it's called for antiseize to be used. I am glad to see the care you take when assembling your engines! I would have every confidence running your engines at the rpm's and hp you built it for.
It was made by Detroit diesel popular among the diesel guys. Works excellent.
I work in oe engine reman world and i promise you every major OE manufacturer we deal with requires head and main bolts torqued with a lubricant. Now there a few headbolts that use a dry lube coating but its still a lube. Going in true dry is a recipe for a thread and final torque failure rate.
@@rojoe3455 incorrect. Kia specify 'dry, no lubricant' in the workshop manual for the head bolts on some of their V6 engines, with an aluminium cylinder block. Consequently, I do a lot of thread repairs for pulled threads, even on motors that have never been over heated, have only done low kms/ miles, and have never even had the rocker covers off. How do I know they haven't been over heated, the first thing we do is check the hardness of the block.
@@rojoe3455 exactly. The vast majority of the torque that gets applied is simply trying to overcome friction.
@@rojoe3455 there is absolutely nothing OEM about a billet block with no water passing between the deck and head with blind head stud holes.
I like the sound of the Terminator movin around in the background. Makes it feel more like an actual working shop, instead of a magical world of make-believe where giant high powered engines jus seem to be "willed" into existence ; )
Ohhhh, I remember peanut butter from the Navy. That's cool 😎 good dog, supervision. I like the explanation on the cam bearings. I appreciate the detailed explanation 🤘🏻🇺🇸
That engine top to bottom is pure artwork . Wish I could afford one . Lol
Showing the issues you run into with a custom combination like this should help people understand why it costs so much to do. Thanks for sharing a real build where things don’t go perfectly through the magic of editing.
Yes compared to those cookie Cutter engines
Well said and you are exactly right. I appreciate the Steve showing the issues and solutions that many would cut out of a video.
I love listening to Steve. He makes it easy for those of us who aren't MIT engineers! Happy 4th!
Thanks for sharing all this REAL information!!! You rock Steve!!!
And this is why this man has the best of the best.
4:44 Thats some first class branding on the side of that block!
Just awesome. Love how high tech everything is, yet it’s all so simple common sense… Oil support rails always fail with big power high cylinder pressure… simple solution put a chunk of aluminum in the pin hole to support it solidly… so simple.
What did you think I meant about the big chunks of aluminum when I was referring to the oil ring support system… That idea should’ve been implemented in every race engine ever built with wrist pin interference since people have been modifying engines…
I really liked the time lapses with the music 😎💪🏼
Always fun fitting new parts. I think it’s Detroit Diesel that makes the “peanut butter” though. I used to use it assembling 2 stroke Detroit’s. Cheers.
Yep you're right it's Detroit Diesel that makes the peanut butter I seen a video with a team putting together top fuel engine and that's exactly what they said too
Love the new intro! Looks much better than previous versions! Excellent product promotion !
Fire rings are often overlooked, but very important.
Never get tired of looking at billet parts
Very interesting to see this in an in-depth form. Not a lot of people post professional engine building videos. These details are very valuable!
I found you through Tom Bailey a couple years ago,i definitely have much respect for you. Your the man,you put cleeter on the map your high level sir,I hope for incredible success for you.
Such beautiful pistons/rods, such badassness
Those Vader Rods are nice looking. I love the world of readily available CNC machines and having so much high end custom product made in America.
I know i’m not the only one blowing at the phone screen, triying to get the chips off the rod. 🤣
Thank you Mr Steve for showing us and explaining us the process of assembling one of these engines. Even tho most of us can’t afford one of these engines, a lot of the knowledge you are sharing with us can be applied to our applications.
Steve, you elevate all of us through your videos, thank you for the education!
Thank you Steve for being so confident in the quality of your product that you you show the build. Keep kicking ass brother. You deserve more followers, Keep working with Cleetus, I'm sure I speak for others when I say we like seeing you there.
If there is one take away from this is that there are no shortcuts in performance engine building it's the details that come back to bite you and it's experience that recognizes and fixes those details ...Thank you for leaving in the details most others would have cut out it really shows you are confident enough to not gloss thing over for a flashy perfect build video .
The videos you are now producing have gone beyond educational, and into the realm of ‘good for humanity’. You are showing future generations how to do it right to high tolerance, while making adjustments via skill and tools. Showing the detail of mock-up, clearancing as needed, assembly while still watching for appropriately tight tolerance, AND showing when not right make right by disassembly rinse/repeat - this is generational knowledge being shown and passed on. 🙏 and a Happy 4th of July to you and yours 👍👊🇺🇸🤘
Great work Steve... wish I could afford to put it in my AMC Javelin..
Steve enjoy your little furry buddy as much as you can while you can. My pit-lab mix shop boss followed me everywhere for 15 years and spent every hour in the shop with me that I did. The last 2 years he has been retired to the house as he really struggled moving on the slick concrete anymore. Now I fear he is in his final days as I have to help him up all the time to get him moving. After all these years going to be super tough losing my shop boss. Best boss I ever had!
Yep a lost my last dog Axel from cancer. Total surprise, gone in 1 day from when we took him to vet.
Glad you got a good friend there.
I love this. It’s like horsepower tv from back in the day but with 4K hp lol. Thank for the content 🙏
🔥beautiful looking parts you have built and designed sm.. unreal the hp you are making out of the engines🔥👊🔥⚙️🔨🏍
Excellent insight on issues can sometimes arise when new parts are utilized as was the case with the connecting rod clearances and the processes used to resolve them.
As an aside, your knee mill's head needs some TLC. A company we utilize for everything Bridgeport parts related is H&W Machine Repair in Indiana. Great family owned small business to work with and they're always there to assist on the nuances in tear down and assembly when replacing worn parts. Cheers!
Doggo left you a present @ 9:30 in the video lol. I have worked in race / custom / hot-rod shops for a couple decades. I have been perpetually lucky over the years to have worked with some amazing people that have zero issue and go out of their way to share what they have learned. I have made it a point to do the same. The effort Steve is making, and the knowledge he is passing along shows how stand up he is. Remember people, he doesn't have to do this. I am sure the income from these videos isn't that profitable when you factor in the time and effort making the videos take. The best way to ensure that people will be building and racing rad cars for the years to come is hot-rodders supporting hot-rodders.
So if you are one of the crusty f*cks who think there is some sort of advantage, benefit or "power" to not share what you have learned, or not help your fellow hot-rodders, you are the literal worse thing in the lifestyle. If you get some sort of enjoyment out of watching someone struggle, or do something incorrectly and sit back and say nothing so you can laugh about it afterwards - go trade your cool car in for a Kia Rio cause you and your small d*ck energy don't deserve this hobby / industry - period.
Bro wtf. You sound psychotic..
If u only knew how cool it is that u r being so detailed the way u r. Learning so much. Thank u. Great videos.
Its so crazy to watch how such a powerful engine goes back together with different engine builders. I was with Joe Gibbs Racing engine shop -Chevy and Toyota- for 14 yrs. The only thing we didnt make or alter was the block and crank. Maybe some pulleys. I mean we made everything. Its crazy and so much easier to see how all these 3rd party parts are so much easier. We had to hone the block, cylinders and cam tunnel. Hone all pistons for pin, hone bearing while in the rod by crank specs. Distributor housing, rocker arms and more probably. That was nothing compared to touching almost every part on that engine to make it better. It is so weird watching one man do this when it took us a week with 40 guys in individual rooms doing specific jobs. I love watching Steve work and learn things i didnt know.
Time for another T-shirt or hat raffle for the Steve sleeve! Those connecting rods are insanely beautiful.
thank you Steve for such an awesome informational video. although I stopped wrenching after my accident left me disabled I still love watching and learning how people do their own builds with their own personal touch. love your content
Thanks for having sleeves like that. Never understood why more guys don't. Coming from someone that used to hone blocks, sleeve blocks these type sleeves make the guy honing blocks life easier. 21-23* BTDC is peak cylinder pressure.
As a retired aircraft engine tech I believe BTDC is used for ingnition timing to allow flame front progress allowing for peak gas pressure to drive piston down. If peak gas pressure is to early the piston cannot move down pressure temp can cause instant detonation explosion....
Thank you for taking the time to show us some of your tips and tricks. Plus sharing your knowledge of the automotive engine. things not all engine builders would do
It's great to see you take attention to detail first. I'm a racer from the late sixty's early seventy's were speed parts were not plentiful and you had to make your own! just like you are doing today!!! keep up the great work!!!
Hey Steve, great video of your race engine building techniques! As an engine builder myself, when I'm assembling the oil ring rails... I found that by installing the top rail first you then have a guide to slide the bottom rail in without fighting getting caught on the expander rail as your installing the bottom rail.
Another improvement we did was get a diamond grinding wheel for the total seal ring filer, much easier to cut those steel hard top rings and more consistent with amount removed on the ring butts.
6:18 "I think they're looking good" xD that aged well!
The guys know what he's talking about! Would love to have a Steve Morris engine some day!!! Keep on keeping on brother!
The attention to quality on all your parts is insane!
Those rods look so sick lol
Truly fascinating to watch a master at work. Coming from building automatic transmission I love the precision!
man I have used to much of that " peanut butter " building 71 series Detroits over the years, awesome to see it being used in other applications!
Thank you so much for all of the information you are teaching all of up
Outstanding job on that rod radius M²
watching cleeter beet er on the track allready, its cool to watch the scientist behind it all!! ill have to keep up with this guy now so i can be guessing what cleetus will get from him next!!
That engine block looks so beautiful 👍
Awesome, just Awesome, I can't wait to see how it's progressing and obstacles, that are encountered, all the best to you and your loved ones
Wow! Thanks Steve for the tips about the Cat lube ! Always used ARP but i sure now will give a shot to that Cat stuff !!
It is Detroit Diesel P/N 5198563
Lycoming aircraft engines use a similar setup with the buttons on the pins. Some are aluminum and some are bronze. Continental on the other hand uses a integrated button that's part of the pin out of aluminum. Only difference is that the pen sits below the oil control ring. The pins are held in by cylinder itself.
So much fun when you change one part, have to modify it and other things 3-4 times but dont realize whats needed at each modification point until you are deeper and deeper with the build lol, thats the issues that can cause delays that some customers dont comprehend and say....well its new parts and they should fit🤦🏻♂️
Man I wish I was over there at that shop because I could probably just learn a lot just by watching you guys Minds me when I was 16 doing that with my neighbor like that or actually 14 14s when I built my first motor
Pretty cool finish on the pistons
Another informative video. I was wondering about balancing , but after reading comments below apparently not a concern. Many thanks.
Learn something new everytime I watch Steven and son 😆
I love the amount of knowledge you are sharing!
Appreciate the candor Steve. Really enjoyed the video!
So much beautiful moto jewelry. Looks so valuable.
I love how Steve explains stuff not overly complicated but I don’t feel like I’m being talked down to
Dude you are awesome and so very knowledgeable. Love your videos. By the way I’m gonna go out on a limb and say those bearing sleeves are sets of 32. Keep up the good work brother.
I've watched and learned from your videos for years and I wanted to buy a hat so, I did a search for your website and found out you're located in Muskegon my home town ?! 🤯
Cool stuff STEVE THANKS FOR THE TECH PLEASURE WATCHING YOU WORK
Those Con rods look amazing !!!
parts are soooooo pretty , its almost a disgrace to bury them under all the beautiful engine block goodness
great video Steve like the step by step your doing
Unless you are doing something proprietary in your surfacing it might be interesting for the guys to see some of the surfacing op going on in the background. I've seen it many times for a few minutes it's fascinating. It might help explain why you have to charge what you do for your work
FREEKIN awesome, love to see the process!
Damn those main caps are thick son there's the beef...
Steve I would like to see how you determine piston rod and head and valve to determine engine horsepower and cubic displacement and all that fun stuff thank you for the videos
Good looking stacks from Clinton Aluminum!!
Would love to hear your thoughts on the Aussie ford Barra engine, have seen them with 500k + miles pulled out of taxis and turbod and make good power with some engine work. They seem to have a lot of potential for a stock block!
He's currently got a cylinder head for a barra engine
Dewey's awesome! Great shop dog!
So just one small comment. You're right that it takes less force to completely shear a bolt than to "pull" it apart, but as I'm sure you know, Bolts STRETCH!!! So in comparison, it takes much more force to SHEAR a bolt off, especially when the connecting metals are right up against each other, like a GM LS Engine, compared to just stretching a bolt. Stretching requires much much less force. Back years ago, I used to see SBC head bolts stretch all the time, sometimes even just torquing them. That's why a lot of people went to studs, as they don't stretch due to the different material, however than "can" still stretch and usually will before snapping off. From you design, I'd take those main caps and extend the sides over to the edge of the block so you could still add in cross bolts which I would think would help to overall just increase the strength of the block. Just a thought.
Your pup has a great name!
Absolutely great. Always so well ad clearly explained
Crazy looking Rods
Hey, you got my shirt on!👍
Every time the big brother Caprice puts another victim on the trailer, my Roadmaster struts around like a second grader who just got picked first in the latest dodge ball game.😁
I so wanted to see the car go yesterday! Dang storms ⚡️⚡️
An unclipped pitbull. I have one too. Currently in training as a service animal to my wife. Thank you for declining to cut him.
Great video...should you not rebalance the assembly after taking material off the rod...
Do you ever heat, cryo, etc. treat your moving parts? A Steve Tech video on coatings and treatments of moving parts would be cool. MotoIQ's Mike Kojima swears by treatments like WPC and others on his race engines.
Hello my name is joe from Peterborough England relay enjoy your show remembering wot i was tort 30 years ago at college love the in-depth tech i billed all my engines trying to get reliable and power for my land rovers keep experimenting with different things i pick up of shows like you i to have a dog she is with me 24/7 love of my life ps keep up the fantastic content
Small world, peterborough here as well
@@garyhowe88 yes usa have taken a lot of names from all over New York was new Amsterdam back in the day
@@josephdunham9067 no no, peterborough England as well🤣
@@garyhowe88 sorry i am having a moment good show i 187 as well
6:15 they looked so beautiful! unreal what happened to them in the last vid.
Another interesting video. Thanks for the upload!
Love the in-depth tech on the rebuild! I’d love to know where to get that “peanut butter” high pressure lube as google search failed me.
The dog has it figured out for sure. Hahaha. I'm on vacation for 2 weeks if you need someone to sweep the floor.
Great video steve, i really enjoy builds like this
It wouldent wear a line on the bore as the 2nd ring and controll ring would swipe that spot. but its true that rings do rotate, Thats why 2 stroke engines have pins to stop the ring rotation as they have ports in the Cylinder.. Just came accross your chan today and love the content! Thank you. Im a mechanical engineer in the U.K just out of intrest what dose an engine like that cost? That billet engine most must cost a fortune? Theres not much af this sort of thing in the U.K
I'm sure it will never happen, but if that rod ever bends, things are going to even more "grenade like" than just your average peep hole into the block. Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but it makes me cringe a bit. Thank you Steve for the education, I have learned more from you than I could ever imagine, I am most grateful. Thank you sir!
great video Steve! Good luck racing
I enjoy the sounds of the cnc's running in the back ground right at the 9min there was a long ball in the mill doing a semi ruff or a finish pass at a high feed rate. And at 14.28 mm he had a mill doing some ruffing with the deep growl. But Steve if you are looking for a shop to possibly do some production or proto typing work. Check out quest industries Inc there out of lapeer mi. May be able to get you a faster delivery time.
Steve Your a Hoot...
We should have a Drinking game were we all do a shot everytime you say Obviously.
More times than not when I have had any internal component fail (push rod tip fail, piston delete itself, lifter fail, rocker arm, etc) I have had to replace cam, main, and rod bearings because “trash” from the failed part(s) had become embedded in the bearing. Additionally if the failed part is a hardened steel 99% of the the crank and or cam at the very least needs to polished. I also have used Detroit Diesel International Compound #2 aka “Peanut-Butter” (Detroit Diesel part # 5198563 in a 2Lb-10oz can) for several decades and is my fastener lube of choice. A buddy of mine purchased a can of it from Fitzgerald Truck parts last year and said it cost him 70 bucks which seems like a lot of money but unless you are rebuilding an engine a day it’s probably a life time supply. I have piece of 1.5 ID tubing about 3” long that I have weld a piece of 1/4 piece of steel to seal the bottom and formed a piece of thin sheet metal as a cap with an acid bush sticking through it to paint clean fasteners with a thin layer before assembly. Years ago I worked at a shop that had a squeeze tube crimping machine and the parts department used to fill 1/2, 1, 2, and 4 ounce “tooth paste” tubes with different things to control shop material costs as well as making them easily billable as well as sellable to other shops and customers off the street. Note if you have been using a different fastener lubricant you should seriously consider rechecking clearances because different lubricants can give different fasteners tightness as opposed to torque resulting in different bearing crush/clearances.
Steve great content as always. I just want to point out that I have never seen piston rings in any 2 cycle engine leave grooves in cylinders at the end gaps. They are pinned to keep them from rotating and snagging ports.
They are a nicoseil cylinder sleeve. Very hard compared to us. Also much less tension.
Pardon the spelling
@@stevemorrisracing 2 cycles used steel sleeves long before chrome, nikosil, etc was invented. The Dykes type piston rings used in many early outboards and motorcycles increased tension with compression and left no end gap groove either. I am not saying that 4 strokes need pinned rings but I seriously doubt they would wear a groove if they didn't rotate. Your pistons might even benefit being pinned as it would keep the two weakest areas separated. The end gaps and the pin buttons. I think the pin Buttons would provide better ring support if they were a press fit too. However assembly would suck having to freeze them to Insert and would require a custom too to get them aligned. Have a wonderful day, you have some of the best content on You Tube for us motorheads.
6:38 "I think, are going to be pretty cool." I don't know about cool, but they make for a great episode of, "Hey, where did all eight of my rods go?"
Nice build! Why do the hoops go into the heads and the receiver groove in the block? Old way used to be to put the o- ring in the block and receiver groove the head. Thanks
Personal preference? Ease of machining operations?
Either way accomplishes the same thing.
When taking away material from the rods like you are to fit your application, do you weigh them or does it affect balancing?
Yeah I wonder if he re-balanced. I'm sure it didn't amount to much. This is an area I would like to be educated on. I recently was going to use a different rod bearing than what my rotating assembly was balanced with, and I thought I better weigh these things, and found out that just one half insert was 4 grams different. So I wonder how important this is, I know people turn cranks and renew bearings all the time with no re-balanced or ill effects. Of course the reciprocating weight vs rotating weight, one may be more important than the other.
Would theoretically be removing same weight from each rod. Balance would remain same if so
Did you watch his engine balancing video?! LOL He explains everything. Thanks Steve!
@@joshr8680 yes rotating would stay balanced but I think you have to factor in the reciprocating weight and calculate bobweight to counter the counterweights.
I just asked the exact same question. For his high revving engines, I thought grams matter for balance.
Sure would like to know my way around power the way you n your people do Steve
I've tried for years
Every time I get close
Life has had other plans for me
I'm so about what you Folks do
Enjoyed listening in🙂
At 13:08 Steve talks about shear VS tention load on bolts, I completely agree with him on that!
The Industrial Fastener Institute (Inch Fastener Standards, 7th ed. 2003. B-8) states that shear strength is approximately 60% of the minimum tensile strength. “As an empirical guide, shear strengths of carbon steel fasteners may be assumed to be approximately 60 percent of their specified minimum tensile strengths.