My Suzuki Bandit 1200 project | Part 2 (removing the carbs)
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- I bought a cheap road legal 2003 Suzuki GSF1200S Bandit project that initially wasn't running.
In this series I will take you on a journey of how I'm going to get this bike looking and running great on a tight budget.
Part 2 is about how to remove the bank of carbs. Actually a lot easier than you'd think if you're an average non-qualified "motorcycle mechanical enthusiast"!
Enjoy! - Авто та транспорт
So many older bikes here in NZ, seem to suffer the same fate, back yard bodgers. I'm restoring an 87 FZR1000 at the moment and the horrors that it had been put through by previous owners was alarming.
One was a amateur auto electrician, who thought it was a good idea to bypass the thermo switch for the cooling fan, and fit a manual switch, he used home electrical gauge wire, and a giant switch bock from Dick Smith😆, I knew things were going to be really bad, when i found loads of wood screws and decking screws holding things on. 😫
I should have started with a much better bike, would have saved a ton of money, but to late now.🤷♂
Oh I've seen that sort of bodgy fixes so many times on my bike projects I've bought !
Reinstall, attach throttle cables before inserting carb bank from right hand side, choke later. Removal, pull out and remove cables outside the frame. Allows better technique doing up the lock nuts on cables correctly. Its a Haynes tip. Its worked for me several times.
Thanks for the tip. The cables came out pretty easily with the carbs inside the frame but definitely reckon not the way back in. I have to a buy a new set first though! Thanks for watching 🙂
Another good little tip is to put some rubber grease on the side cover grommets, (or any rubber grommets) stops the plastics from binding and potentially breaking off the lugs.
I watched a "how to" vid of such a hamfisted attempt, I was yelling at the screen. I was triggered by the simple act of removing the tank.......without undoing and removing the fuel tap first. Nor did they put a block of wood under the tank to remove the fule and vacuum pipes. It was total carnage of metal to paint contact the whole time...lol.
I recommend using some kind of fishtape or a zip tie to snake ur throttle cable straight down. Then u can jam ur hand inthere and wiggle it over the next obstruction with ur nimble fingers. After that get urself a long 12" pair of needle nose pliers and a headlight so u can get the end of the cable where it needs to go. This is the way to hook up that pesky open cable.
u cn lern to spel properly cuz you look like a git udderwyze.
With a couple of shortcuts and some practice, this job can be a LOT easier. I have owned a 1999 GSF1200 for 10 years, and I can have the carbs out and on the table within ten minutes. Jets cleaned-out and the bank back in the bike within another 20 mins.
@888jackflash - in my later video I replace the throttle cable. Definitely now 10 minutes for me too! Actually quite surprised now how easy it is! Thanks for watching my video 🙂
Greetings from New York! A big fan of NZ.. went through very quickly once, hope to return someday. Yup, pulling the carbs on and off can be done fairly quickly with some practice- I think easier for me as my '99 has no PAIR systems nor other clutter. I actually only run a PULL throttle cable (have done so for many years on most of my bikes to no detriment)... so that's a help. Pop the seat off, rear bodywork, two bolts for the tank... I don't run clamps on the top of my fuel line or the vacuum line, so they push off easily with a long flat screwdriver. Then pop the lid off the back of the airbox, knock the filter loose with your flat screwjie and remove the two airbox mounting screws. Loosen all eight Intake clamps screws... pull the airbox rearward away from the carb mouths.. yank the bank UP and BACK out of the intake boots then the carbs UPWARDS through the frame at a slight angle. Put a thick rag underneath them while loosening the throttle cable's 10mm nuts, use a needle nose to pull the cable knob/end loose... then the carbs are in your hands. Turn them upside down to drain them at angles 'til empty. For re-mounting, re-attach the cable(s) first, make sure the rubber intake boots are WARM, (hair dryer or heat gun best), makes it a LOT easier. Spray a light mist of silicone into the forward intake boots.. and they'll pop right in. Do NOT spray silicone onto the airbox-side boots! It will make a slippery mess. But they should be warm also. Reach through the airbox and finger the rubbers so they're not folded inwards... wiggle the airbox gently until the boots all fully seated. Then, HOLDING the carbs forward from backing out, get the outer two airbox boot clamp screws tightened so the bank won't move, then do the inner two. Then replace the airbox mount screws, air filter.. and make sure all 8 clamp screws are tight. Then just pop the tank, rear bodywork and seat back on. Easy-Peasy, once you practice! I've had my carbs off... oh, about a hundred times over 175,000 miles now.
@@888jackflash ha that's exactly how I do it, almost word for word from what you said. I didn't bother with the return cable either. The carb springs are pretty damn strong already!! The only thing I tried and failed was putting the throttle cable in with the carbs installed. Definitely not recommended!! My hands had bruises for ages 🤣. Be good to see what you think of my #7 video. And if you ever get to NZ and Christchurch I'll shout you a beer 🍺
@@888jackflash This is golden advice for another 1999 GSF1200 owner prepping for first-time carb service (myself!)
@@Grunchy005 A lot of Bandit owners go nuts with the jetting, putting "pod" individual filters on the carbs and throw huge jets in there. While you MIGHT get screaming power at full throttle, the rest of the range will suffer, barking, spitting and bad flat-spots. With a simple aftermarket exhaust can, all you need is a set of good needles (I use Ivan's Performance)... drill 20 1/2" holes in the airbox lid (remove the snorkel), go 37.5 on the Pilot jets, 117.5 (okay maybe 120) Main jets... float levels at 14.5mm... and 3 to 3-1/2 turns out on the Fuel screws, depending upon your altitude. STAY WITH THE OEM SUZUKI AIR FILTER. Aftermarkets filters simply don't work with this bike, trust me. This will give you clean, fat power across the range without dips and gliches and sh*tty idling. It's what I'm running in my own '99 B12 right now, and it's crisp. Of course, make sure your valves are adjusted, then, AT THE VERY END, do a proper carb sync. Bob's Yer Uncle.
Gday mate I'm down here in Invercargill I'm looking getting myself a Bandit in the next few months I've been chomping at the bit wanting to get back riding poor health put a stop to that for awhile
@BarnyG6804 - they are a lot of bike for not a lot of $$$. If you haven't already, check out my Part 1 video where I did a walk around of mine. Fun project and super easy to work on. Do get a Bandit 1200, even to chuck in the back of the garage for now. Thanks for watching my video 😎
I'm in Taranaki, and have been think about getting either an GSX1200 Inazuma or XJR1300, (I like the twin shock look on this type of bike) I have a 01 YZF-R1 that ive owned since new but its getting too uncomfortable to ride any distance. Either one of those, (or a CB1300 or GSX1400) would suit me perfectly.
@@uhtred7860 I'd go for the GSX1400. The best value of all of them.
Good step by step. A little bit of a better view where your hands are working would help, but good. Thanks.
@artcianfanojr - yes, totally agree. One of my earlier videos and I've had to take the carbs out yet again so will be posting way better footage. All going well, be this weekend.
I have a 2001 Bandit that I will be working on and these step by step videos help alot.@@motorcyclingkiwistyle
Do you still have the bandit ? I’m hoping to buy 1 ASAP , where are you in Nz approx ?
@andyheels6041 - I do but it's a long term project.