How to Sharpen Jointer Knives In Place
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2016
- This video describes and demonstrates how to sharpen jointer knives without removing them from the jointer. Removing and replacing the knives involve setting the tool up which can be difficult and take a lot of time. This method is quick and easy.
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Thanks for this, I bought one of these (UK) many years ago, it had no instructions with it and I never really knew how to use it until now. Have to give it another go. I have a Startrite 10x6 thicknesser/planer and hate changing blades.
Thanks very much, great help:) I bought the Axminster Tools UK version of this tool. An excellent way to always have razor sharp blades. I expect you knew but didn't mention, for reasons of video brevity, lock the head. Also always a wise move, slip on a pair of cut resistant safety gloves when doing this type of job but remember to take off when using any machine.
Thanks for the info going to give it a try as hate taking them out and sending off for sharpening .
Thanks alot for sharing.. I could make this sharpening jig at my shop.
Isn't the center of the blade getting twice as much sharpening as the outer edges? This might not make a difference the first or second time, but gradually as you sharpen more I think the blade would get shorter in the middle region. Still, I think it is great that people are willing to test gear and share their results. Thank you!
Really great point! I have not noticed any problems since it is just a few swipes to tune up an edge. A simple solution would be to back the fence away and just make s full stroke in one direction.
Yep. When you know enough how things work, you will just adjust the pressure when you do it. Favor towards the end of the sharpening block on the stroke, then reverse the other way.
I dont think so. it's a flat surface to a flat surface. The middle might sharpen faster but you're not going to get a concave blade.
Where did you get those sharpeners from sir. I like that very much, ind fact, I have never seen no one showe that type of sharpening joinerblades. Regards, Júlíus
Picked it up at a Woodcraft store in Delaware. You can order it from them online as well's called a Jointer and Planer Knife Hone and it comes in 2 different versions. The first is an Aluminum Oxide sharpener that costs about $25 and the other is a Diamond Sharpener that costs about $37.
Thank you for your for you answering me cuicly. 99.99% stores in Americ do not send goods too Iceland where I live, but thank you very much, I like your videos, and love whatching them. From Island I bid you good night. Júlíus
It would a lot easier and faster to do all the sharpening operations per blade, thus one complete rotation vs four.... :) Oh, and like Jim said, lock the head... and maybe better just to go in one direction, instead of back and forth.....
How do you know which side is 300 and which side is 600? I have that sharpener and it's not labeled. Both sides feel and look identical.
Great question. If you gently move a fingernail laterally across the surface you can feel a difference between the grits. Once you identify it is a good idea to mark which is which on the wood for future reference. Hope this helps.
One can feel the difference, then use a sharpie to mark them...
this process should also work on planer knives right?
Great question. It all depends on whether or not you can gain unobstructed access to the blades or not. I have a DeWalt 735 planer and it is tough if not impossible to get to the knives with the tool. I just pop out the blades, sharpen and re-set the blades. Remember jointer knives can be difficult and time consuming to re-set while most planer blades are really easy to put back in place. This is why I demonstrated this technique for a jointer and not a planer. On a jointer you are looking right at the blade you are sharpening while on a planer you might be working blind. Not a good thing when it comes to a razor sharp blade. Hope this helps.
Dave's Woodshop x
Russell Linger I
Nice idea but as you were going back and forth the tool was moving a lot so there is no way it worked well way to unsteady of a method in my opinion
Although there is sometimes a slight wobble in the cutter head the tool locks onto the blade by design. You can just steady the cutter head with your other hand or a wedge if you desire. I sometimes do this but it really is not necessary.
Were could I buy one of these
I purchased mine at Woodcraft.
Why rotate every time, and not just go through each blade entirely?
You could do it that way. Just make sure to keep an accurate count of the strokes in order to keep the blades balanced.