Sharpen & Install Jointer Blades - Making & Using Jigs
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- I’ve put it off for far too long, time to sharpen my jointer blades. Check out how I build a jig to sharpen jointer (and planer) blades, then reinstall them using the foolproof Jointer Pal jig.
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I have that same jointer. I don't have a Jointer Pal, but to align the knives, I lay a ruler across the outfeed table and over the cutter head. I adjust the leveling screws to raise each knife until the knife just kisses the edge of the ruler. Then tighten the wedge. I do this for both set screws under each knife. This ensures that the knives are held firmly in position, by the wedges on the face, and by the leveling screws below.
It's like a new machine when your blades are sharp! I have a couple sets of blades that way I can take them to be sharpened by a local sharpener shop. It costs something like $7 and is well worth it in my opinion. After tuning up the blades when installing etc the planer is a pleasure to use... good job!
Thanks Chris! I think I will buy another set or two so that I never run into a sharpening emergency.
I just bought that exact same jointer off of craigslist! It too needs a good sharpen. I will be making one of those jigs for sure! Thanks for the vid!
Damn...seems to be a good bit of people who have my same jointer. Pretty cool to know that.
If you didn't know how old it is, I've been told the one I have was used during WWII.
My original motor is burnt out, but that's the beauty of belt driven tools...I'm literally operating mine with a right angle drill for now, at least until I find another washing machine motor, or any other motor that I can mount the pulley to.
No clue as to how the original motor was mounted, since the parts were missing from day one, but some flat iron with a bit of angle iron welded to the edge as a clamping point for a motor, and a spring loaded door hinge got the job done for me.
Any tool that can be repaired with scrap metal and junk...is a 5 star design in my eyes.
Wow small world. Just inherited the very same jointer, working with oak, and going through the same process of figuring out sharpening blades and setup. Like the jig for setting blades. Thanks!
Lot easier to push the wood through the jointer too...that was my biggest surprise. Good timing, have a video coming out about setting blades today too...different method so perfect!
Honesty, the first thing I noticed was how different it sounded! I can't wait to see your setting method. I really like your work Tyler, and I'm honored that you stumbled onto my channel!
I like the jig but it would help me a lot to know the overall size. Length, width height ? Thanks bill
Awesome, you’ve just put me on the right track👍
nice video! sharpened blades makes an easy life
Great job, no one in the UK seems to have info on how to sharpen power planer blades principle seems to be to same as your planer but they are a lot shorter in length open to suggestions. Thank's for the share.
The jig design resembles a Duelan (sp?) jig. I bought one on-line after seeing a video. Being that the body was wooden I checked for parallel on my granite reference surface. The blade slots were out of parallel. I contacted the vendor and he swapped it out. I had the same problem with the second one. I checked my reference table and found it to be flat. I returned the jig for a refund. I then machined a set (one ea. For my jointer & planer). No problems now and touching up the blades is a very quick process.
that jig is pretty cool.
Great video. Awesome camera settings and shots in this.
Boom ! Dude, You just taught my Old Arz something. Ya know I'm gonna try your Jig. Oh and Btw,,, My Spindle Gouges and Skews are Way Sharper these days Thanks Again Bro!
I'm glad I could help Joe!
This jig and that made by you and DIY Tyler is a diy copy of the Deulen Tools jig. I am not throwing shade, just answering the "I don't knows" in the various videos of people using it. There are detailed manufacturer videos of how to use this jig. They make different lengths of jig and you have made a long one as you would need for planer knives. What you could do to save time, and the Deulen guy admitted this to me, is take a long planer jig, like yours, and place two shorter jointer knives in one side and place the third in the other side (I would guess about half way down would make it more stable) and avoid the extra work of the 3 card monte you go through sharpening them two at a time per grit.
One note of caution...whoever makes one of these saw your kerf at the angle of your knives. I bought the Deulen (makes them only miles away and I bought a blem for cheap) and while really sweet, the angle did not match my knife angle. Just something to be careful about. FWIW
Nice jig.
I guess if one put a stip of paper in the grove after sharpening, it'd create a micro bevel angle?
All depends on the time you want to spend.. I would spend almost 2 hours 2 get at the blades..we ran skeleton crew on Saturday i would have somebody pull the blades & i would work them over the weekend.. My big problem is wearing uneven..no matter how we varied wood going through my planer ..so i had to work the outsides down just to square them then i sharpened them by hand on a big wet stone..then a granite block also for sharpening..when i gave it back you could shave with it.. I covered it on return so nobody got hurt reinstalling it..we had superduper use because we bought from the saw and the lines were big.
What angle do you make your cuts at for the blades so the angle will be correct (flat) when you sharpen?
Hey do I set the table saw to 45 ? Like measure with a Protractor to make sure? I’m going on this epic rebuild of my old workshop of me and my fathers. I actually just rebuilt my jointer, and made a new side fence for it for safety. I’m also building this massive table sled. And on the far end up the sled it opens up like 3” so that a board can sit in there I’m also doing t slot on the whole thing as well. It’s gonna be insane. Idk I made some wild finger joint jig for the table saw as well. Have a good one hope to hear back
I'm sure you found out by now. But use a speed square. A good one. There are also woodworker squares.
@@maxwellbarnhart1375 see the part wherr I said I rebuilt machines, I obviously understand the 45. I was meaning very precise like down to a tenth of a degree but already made all that shit to.
1:10 Cut another slot further in, and use longer screws higher up to reach it. (jig might need to be wider to do that). Then you would be able to sharpen 3 blades at once.
I was wondering about that. Still trying to visualize putting in a third slot. Just to make sure all is even, if you know what I mean
make the same jig from a piece of oak breadloaf handrail. cut 45 deg. slots in it and stick the planer blade in then you can use thin shims to hold it in or even drill holes through that coincide with the blade holes and use screws to hold it. set a metal blade in your tablesaw at 90 deg and run it through just skimming the blade edge. i just push and pull back and forth til the resistance eases up. you cant ask for sharper planer knives.
Damn it, now I need a planer
Great video, thanks for sharing. I actually have the same jointer! Pretty sure it's eligible for the Smithsonian Institute, but it still works wonders. :)
Got the same one, myself. My aunt gave it to me after my uncle passed away...Claiming it and my lathe to be from around the years of WWII
I like it dude.
I just finished a stair retrofit and your jig looks a lot like oak rail.. Guess what im doing with my leftover. Thanks for simple solutions
Haha, sounds look a good use of resources!!
Excellent video Mark! They keep getting better. I need to build this jig and give it a go. Did you get a piece of dead flat marble locally?
That chunk of granite is actually something my brother left behind after he lived with me for a short time when he finished college. I don't know where he got it, but I would think any place that sells granite counters would have a small chunk they would sell to you cheap.
Scott Kershaw
Just a tip, unless you buy a surfaced edge piece of stone, it is not flat. Often people consider granite tiles flat or even glass. They are not by nature but the exception always exists.
You can simply use three different pieces of cast iron rounds bought from McMaster Carr.
Note:
Tom from the UA-cam channel "OxTools" has. Pretty good video explains how to make your own lapping plates. As with most any form of mechanical methods of calibrating exactness, one must use Three units to perform the job.this can produce amazing results. A unique and unnoticed by-product is the more the lapping plates are used, the more they become accurately flat. Machinists use high accurate gauge blocks. These blocks are so flat they create a vacuum of surface tension between them when put together. Most of use need not worry about this in wood working of course. But the point here is that one can effectively true a block of any stone or glass for that matter. Thick glass can be found from portholes. Amateur astronomers use them to fashion their own mirrors for their homemade telescopes.
To bring a finer edge, use ordinary piece of newspaper or cardboard as a strap. The paper contains clay, the very thing that dulls your knife, scissors etc. puts a finished edge on the blade.
I'll have to try that. Good tip!
nice job my friend those blades came out all lot better than they looked originally. By the way what degree angle did you make your cuts at too house the blades?
I just went with 45. It doesn't quite match up perfectly, but it's close enough.
Nice use of the wood taps!
add some water to your sandpaper, it makes it easier when you wet sand.
Does the jointer pal set the blades so you have any snipe? I use a metal ruler on my jointer (a little older but same brand as yours) and I do not get ANY snipe, but its a real pain in the butt.
muy buen video, tengo una duda cual es el angulo para incrustar la cuchilla, y cual es el angulo de filo de la cuhilla gracias
Are "disposable" Dewalt planer blades sharpenable or not? Some say yes but for only one sharpening. If this is true, why is it so?
Disposable blades can be resharpened. The number of times you can do it depends on how heavy handed you are while sharpening them. The difference in the Dewalt blades, and the blades in the video shown here, is that in the Dewalt, they are "keyed" or "indexed" by pins that hold them in a specific position relative to how far out they protrude. Sharpening them too much would make them shorter with no way to extend them so that they're all the same height. William Ng has an excellent video on another method for creating a sharpening jig, and he discusses sharpening "disposable" blades like the Dewalt has.
ua-cam.com/video/pUoEPgcqUFc/v-deo.html
heck yeah. ive sharpened sets 4 or 5 times before the retainer bolts hit my material. then i went and got lower profile screws and counter sank the screw holes in the blade retainer piece so no screw head was able to touch my material. lol. works awesome. just dont bottom out everything.
@@cowdough94 Thanks, would you buy this jig? www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs?sid=V9146?PL&gclid=CjwKCAiA767jBRBqEiwAGdAOrxnhqa5PLGfmls4Wxaw38k1UKt1hU6zIgXIos2S00YXertvK5P_PAhoCuNkQAvD_BwE
lol! thats almost identical to my jig. i swear ive never even seen that. if i hadnt made one id buy it.
@@cowdough94 Thanks Josh. I found the same product on the Woodcraft site for just a bit less along with a UA-cam video for it: ua-cam.com/video/IgaDpbDhlss/v-deo.html
Awesome video = Do you have plans for this Jig?
Nope, I just made it up as I went. DOY Tyler made a very similar one and he might have plans for it.
I didn't see anything about what grit paper you are using or how you glued it down
Question, if you made your jig 12" inches long (for planer blades) why not put two of the 6" blades end to end on one side and then the other blade centered on the opposite side. Seems to me you could eliminate having to switch blades out that way.
That's a good idea. I might have to change my holes up a little bit to lock in all the blades, but I will have to give it a try.
Do you cut 45 degree angled slots or 50 degrees?
I have that exact same jointer model. Have you ever had issues with the result of the plane "rippling" on your finished piece? What hp motor is driving your jointer. Thanks.
I got the same one as well. Been running it with a Dewalt right angle drill since the motor burnt up (Gotta love belt driven tools). That rippling is likely from having the infeed table set too deep, and/or slightly high set blades. Take a straight edge from a combination square and hold it on edge on the outfeed across the blade, rotate the head by hand, and your blade should move the straight edge about 16th of an inch, measurable by using the edge of the outfeed as your point of interest. check both sides of the blade and do the same for the second blade. If you're motor is bogging down as you cut, with sharp blades, raise the infeed.
It could also be human error, if you're possibly passing the wood too fast. I think my original motor was 1/2 HP, but I'm not sure if it was original to the jointer.
I been doing it that way for a few years. I do 2000 for last step. I do those grits to get to the 2000
what angle did you use to make the cuts in the jig. did you take the angle of the blades with a protractor and match
I just went with 45 degrees. It doesn't quite match the blade angle perfectly, but it is really close. And after enough times of sharpening this way I will just end up changing the blade's angle to 45.
FWIW Most granite counter top shops throw out pieces of stone that make good flat surfaces.
I had a buggar of a time getting my blades out. But then, they had been in there 38 years! Dull wasn't even a good word to describe their condition. Anyhow, I had to remove the blade holder. Not fun, there are snap rings on the shaft, between the holder and each bearing. Once the assembly was out, I got the wedges loose. No rust, just residue from the wood. Possibly sap. And the shaft is soft, even using a brass bar, the outboard end of the shaft got dinged. I have new bearings on order. ($18.00, VXB.com) .
Sounds like an ordeal! But at least you are getting it sorted out.
It's all back together, I added a plywood box to collect the shavings. It cuts superb !
What are the screws your using in this jig?
I’m looking for a replacement drum for my Grizzly jointer that has the elliptical carbide cutters. More costly but they last far longer and can be rotated 4 times before sharpening becomes mandatory. I have their planer with those carbide cutters and after a year of use, still haven’t gone beyond 2 sides.
Yea those helical heads look like a great answer for a lot of reasons. I keep shopping around and one day I hope to upgrade my jointer and planer.
What angle do you make the jig for the jointer blades ?
I just made it at 45. it doesn't match the blades exactly, but it's close enough to get them sharp.
if you have carbide blades the same rules apply but use a tile saw blade in your tablesaw. you gotta use diamond on carbide. dont breathe the dust needless to say. wear a mask
How do you do the third blade
how did you make those push pad of yours?
That was actually the first vide I ever made. Check it out ua-cam.com/video/gXETMEknfVg/v-deo.html
How do you know what angle to sharpen them.
Honestly I just took my chances with 45 degrees because it was easy to build that way and its working great for me.
45
Most common home workshop planers and jointers use 45 degree bevel on the blades. Expensive pro shop ones are sometimes different.
Do these blades not have carbide edges on them? If not, how do they stay sharp for very long? I'm using a Makita rotary water stone machine, and my blades are way thicker and heavier with carbide edges.
No carbide on them. That's why its important to be able to sharpen them easily so you can do it more often.
Jim Davis most jointer and planer blades are made of HSS (High Speed Steel) primarily because of cost. Some blades are laminated as well utilizing standard tool steel& a cutting edge of HSS.
I tried this. Rubbed it maybe 50-70 strokes on each sanding paper and the blades were not sharp. hmmm
hmmm, I'm not sure what to tell you. It really worked well for me.
Did you check to see if the slot cut for the blades was a good depth? Too deep or too shallow will change the angle and not get a sharp edge.
Ondrej Roberto
If you didn't get the angle of the jig right, you may be grinding the bevel, not the edge. If you don't know about removing a burr from an edge, that could also be the problem.
очень плохо выставлены ножи.. ножи стучат по заготовке. плохой заход. ножи должны быть чуть чуть выше принимающего стола. а они выставлены в уровень. потому ступень на входе и волна при обработке на 3х ножах!!! кроме основной заточки, нужно снимать микро фаску, как на стамесках. хотя ни кто меня будет читать, я же по русски написал ))
I know it's not perfect, but it is a huge improvement over the way it cut before. I can tell I have some fine tuning to get it set exactly right, but I'm figuring things out as I go.
Your video is the only one I found that has what I think is the same jointer as mine. (113.20650) I can't get the blade blocks out for the life of me. I need to replace my blades. I've drenched them with liquid wrench & they still won't budge. HELP!!!!
Hey Tiffany, I don't have an answer for you off the top of my head. Send me an email (gunflintdesigns@gmail.com) so I don't loose track of you in the comments, and I'll look into it.
Gunflint Designs I actually got them off the day I commented. I used some 3in 1. Thanks for replying. I totally forgot to comment back.
why not just let a tool sharpening business sharpen all your tools so it’s done correctly and you support a local business.
it’s so inexpensive.
Butter doesn’t cut at all.
!!!.
Keine verdammte scheisse geht ohne Werbung Werbung Werbung Werbung Werbung Werbung Werbung Werbung ....
eeo....
Not good that way , buy tormek t8.