Sorry to see so many "experts" comment in a nasty way…anyway, I am a propane service technician and I can confirm for you that your 1" gas line is more that adequate for the Btu load your unit demands. The only change I would make in your plumbing is a drip leg/sediment trap prior to the point at which the hard piping transitions into the flex line. This can be achieved with a tee, a 6" nipple and a cap. Also, periodically have the regulator at the tank checked for proper flow, as the spring inside the diaphragm weakens over time reducing the volume of fuel downstream. Thanks for sharing on "the Tube"!
Your tip on downloading the manuals for the generator and panel is a real good point. My generac came with mine, but the website has them in color. You should always have the documentation for your whole power system both at the panel, but also inside somewhere you can find in a power outage. Another good tip is to have an emergency light wired in above your panel, so it turns on during an outage and makes trouble shooting at the panel much easier. These are LED fixtures with internal battery that flip on when the grid power is missing. It might be good to have a switchable one outside over the generator as well though that may be overkill if you have a magnetic flashlight you're good to go. ;)
Speak to the manufacturer. This power is Much better than my Generac GP7500E was, as I can see much less flickering of the lights. I did use the generac to power a desktop and a laptop with no problems. Test it first. On-Line UPS Technology is best because it will accept input power with relatively wide variations in voltage and frequency. An on-line UPS actually re-develops the waveform. The AC input from either the mains or a standby generator is first converted to DC by the rectifier.
I have the same unit. 9 years old. Battery died. Next: figure out how to open the hood, so I can change oil and filter and air filter. Service contractor wants 100 bucks service call and 100 bucks an hour to do the things described above. Thanks for the video.
So Happy To Hear that I can Help Someone! See my Tune Up Video on this unit and especially my Oil Change Video of this unit Here: ua-cam.com/video/DLo8gnjk_Io/v-deo.html
Watch Part -2: Ww Got Both Central Air Conditioning Compressors To Run on Generator Power. Successfully Powering most of the lights on the house as well as a 5 Ton AC Unit and a 3 1/2 Ton Unit and the appliances in the house. Fluke Multimeter said that the Generator was putting out 31 Amps which X 240 Volts is only 7,440 Watts which is less than half of what this generator can put out, which is 18KW on Natural Gas. This leaves plenty of reserve to help the Neighbors (if they're nice).
I am Noticing an Issue with the Exhaust. Even though the unit sits on a slab, it exhausts out the front and the exhaust has killed a swath of grass about two feet long by eight inches wide. I am looking into placing a metal plate near the bottom to funnel the exhaust upwards to protect the grass. Anyone else have a solution?
Just for comparison, the Generac (and the Honeywell branded ones available at Costco, but made by Generac) come with 200 amp transfer switches that look very similar to your B&S panel, but they come with an Overload shedding board in the ATS that will control/kick off 4 circuits... 2 of which are AC capable, and #3 and #4 that are just normal 120v controllers. Sounds like the GE panel may be similar.
Update: Clock on the Machine does not update for Daylight Savings Time. I therefore changed the Exercise Cycle to start one hour earlier, so that it starts at 11:00 or 10:00am depending upon DST. I left the incorrect hour on the time. I just felt that 12:00pm could be an issue with my family or a Neighbor eating lunch with that noise running. It's best to set exercising when people are generally at work. Of course we have had no blackouts since we installed this generator.
silverbankruptcy Well explained! Thank you. Where can I get the manual? I have the same unit and it is showing an error “Engine does not start” and I want to troubleshoot it. Thanks!
On the weekly exercise, I got two Errors: Low Voltage (Generator, FC_3) Low Frequency (FC_5) I thought that it might be a fuel issue, as I always had concerns that the 1 inch gas line that directly runs 40 feet from the meter, might be insufficient, but I couldn't imagine that it would give an error on low demand Idle. So I shut off the house power and generator started up in the 9 Degree weather and I loaded it with about 5KW of Demand by turning on all appliances and then I turned on the Gas Boiler all the way up, and two ovens as well to see if it was a gas starvation problem. My Gas meter Spun like a Top, but the Generator had No Problems at All. In fact the generator runs a drop rough on Idle, and I hear what Briggs Told me is a "Lean Miss" on Idle. The engine just isn't happy on Idle. When i put the Load on it, the engine Purred. I am a little puzzled and will keep an eye on it. Maybe it's weather related. Also to note, the All Weather Kit is Mandatory, even in New York, we have had single digit temps and below zero with windchill. The Kit makes the metal plate under the battery Too Hot to touch and also warms up the engine oil. Its Great, but I am sure it uses more than the 60 watts that Briggs Claims. I also wrapped the Battery in a thin fiberglass insulation blanket, to help keep it toasty warm. All of this complexity shows you the benefits of the simplicity of a converting a portable generator to Natural Gas, instead of this system which is wonderful but complex.
Your electrical installation is incorrect. You cannot sleeve romex through sealtite outside; all conduit outside of a building is considered a wet location, romex is listed for dry locations only.
@@mdrmoose you should read your code book than, journeyman. Check 334.12(B)(4) and 225.22 The inside of any conduit that is located outside is considered a wet location. NM is only listed for dry locations. I'm a master electrician and electrical instructor.
@@leesummers6979 IDK how you can call yourself a master electrician! Your making up code, NOWHERE does it say that the inside of a conduit is a wet location. Refer to 334.10(5), and 334.15 (B). You are explicitly allowed to install NMC in a conduit. Where do you teach? Stop lying to your students!
@@leesummers6979 I literally read them, and cited codes that specifically say you are allowed to use NMC in conduit. Maybe you should read them. Shame a master electrician doesnt know how to interpret the code book. Also please cite the code that says 'all conduit outside of a building is considered a wet location". Where do you teach because you are failing your students!
Thanks for your video, it’s very informative. I had a low voltage ready and decided to change the 5 year old battery. It had a Napa car battery and I wanted to improve that with a Duracell battery from Sam’s, but it had a cca of 800 and only 550 cca is needed. The fuse blew as soon as I tried to manually run it, after replacing the 15a fuse a few times I called Briggs, but they would not even discuss it, but wanted me to call Battery Plus. They said that too much cca could overwhelm the fuse. I then purchased new Napa battery exactly like the original and yes it’s cca was about 560, closer to what’s needed by generator. But it’s still blowing the fuse when I try to manually start it. Any ideas on what to check? It has been a very reliable Briggs 20 kw standby home generator. Model 40346.
I'm considering buying this generator, but am wondering if the output is stable enough to power battery UPS's like an APC smartups 1500. I have 2 generators, a 6500 watt gas and a 3000 watt inverter model. The 6500 watt model does not put out clean enough power for my UPS's, the 3000 watt inverter does. I have several servers that are connected to smartups 1000's and 1500's and would like to use this for standby power, but want to make sure it will power my UPS's without issue.
I'd have to go with the larger four cylinder, liquid cooled engine. The engine shown here is the equivalent to what I have on my riding mower...it's loud.
Your Right, It's Loud, Like a Lawnmower. See My 4 Cylinder 35KW Generator Video. Thats Loud as well, but in a Heavy Engine type way, not as high pitched. Its also much more reliable.
For a 20KW generator would you choose Briggs or Generac. Both being offered with 10yr warranty parts and labor. Well known large local installer. Thanks in advance!
Check out 11:00. Why would a genset pull fresh air into the engine via the battery compartment? Such a bad design flaw! During colder months (below freezing) this means freezing cold air is chilling, potentially freezing the battery. it would be smarter to segregate the battery compartment and avoid pulling cold, damp air across the battery. I would add extra insulation around the battery and if you have a battery heater, well, what's the point?
These types of issues are basically cost cutting to get a market price that people will pay. The owner should insulate and install a batter heater, though once the gen starts the battery is not used.
From what I see, all of these generators are very similar. In the 30KW and up they all use packaged engines from AC Delco and just attach their own computer. In the 20KW range they are all similar. I like B&S because they design engines themselves and they put the induction voltage measuring rings in the transfer switch and not shoved into the tight generator. I also see that B&S keeps everything as simple as possible. The switch and the computer have few options and are designed to remove anything that can cause a problem, there is also no gas pressure monitoring sensor that can cause generals to not work in lower gas pressure locations, like mine. Also on the 20KW Briggs mounts the steeper motor away from the generator, see my videos, that's a good way to preserve it. I see it as a simple and good design. I am familiar with B&S so its e as systems to stick with it as I know all of the possible issues when installing it. Generally though, 2OKW use a almost 1 Litre engine that operates on a suicide mission with a lifespan of just 3 months of continuous use at 3600 RPM, and so better to get a 35KW gen with a car engine running at 1800 RPM, see.my video.
So the 20K watt engine runs at 3600 rpm all the time even at half load..?? nobody will be running this thing 24/7 for 3 months... Yes they are made for power outages so worst case, they will run for 8 straight days until power is restored after hurricane or tornado or earthquake ... Thats 192 straight hours of use... 3 months time 24/7 is ~2160 hrs ... Are you saying that the life expectancy of these motors is 2160 working hours..?? Because now you just took 192 hrs away from its life leaving you with ~1968 hrs of use... Spending $5k+ on this unit does not seen like its worth the $$ when i expect it to stay the life of the home and to be there ready when needed... Sometimes i think its cheaper to get a portable 7k watt .. Maybe i am seeing this wrong..??
You are correct. It runs at 3600 RPM all the time, very Loud! 1800 RPM ones run all the time at 1800 RPM because they need the required number of cycles to keep up the voltage, regardless of load. I don't disagree regarding the portable unit, get a Winco or Honda unit, see my video on the portable generator workshop, but then again, its not auto startup. I want enough for my neighbors as well.
here is the deal... We are going to build a 5k sq ft home in 2019... I have a portable 7kW generator now in my current home. This new home is supposed to be our "retirement" home so we need a generator for back up power. I don't want to spend $5k+ on a 22kW generator that wont live with the house for ~30 yrs... Granted the power wont be going out all the time so the generator wont be used as much but i need to know if this 22kW generator can hold up for ~30 yrs and be there when needed. If not, then i will invest in a portable 10k watt generator and be done..
Yes. This was sold to a friend but I still change the oil for him. It runs well. Once we had an error, which was fixed by spraying sicone spray on the stepper motor and linkage. Its a good generator for a regular size house and uts very low maintenance. You Must change the oil every year since it gets dirty because the engine is less than car engine tolerances so the carbon gets into the oil. Its a good gen for an occasional outage.
it appears the issue is with the TX/RX and TXGND twisted pair cable. If this is shorted or shorted to gnd then the error occurs. This is suppose to be an interlock safety micro switch to protect utility workers when disconnecting incoming power such that the generator does not start. Although it is not documented in the manuals there is a "clear remote disable" option in the advanced programming mode. Check that this twisted pair is not shorted or shorted to gound. If you hold left Arrow/right Arrow and esc at the same time until "yes" appears. this is the advanced programming mode. The "yes" will be blinking. Hit the OK button. Adv to the next item come to the "clear remote disable" press left arrow, esc, right arrow should get place panel start up in auto or manual mode. However fixing the line will not clear the error. On B&S generators you must go into adv programming and clear the error message after fixing the problem. If you have not fixed the problem the error message will come back after you have cleared it. Best of Luck.
Get your hand and that pointer out of the panels!!!! Imagine someone watching, not knowing the hazards, and sticking their hand into a live panel because they saw you doing it.
I have the same model. It runs fine manually. When it does it’s weekly test run, it surges and starts, then revs very high and shuts down and pops a code “engine will not run”. I’ve had repair techs out 4 times and they say it’s fine and do nothing. I’m at a loss for what to do to repair it. Suggestions?
Open up the front and spray silicone lubricant on all parts of the linkage from into the stepper motor that's hidden on the right to all of the connection that the motor pushes to control the engine. I had the same exact problem on my 35KW. You're engine is hunting and failing. It turns out that exact problem on my 35KW was due to the engine heater failing. Do you have one? I can't explain why I had the same it works on manual but it's the heater. I had the same perplexing problem. I promise. Try heating up the engine with a block heater before the exercise mode time, and see if that helps.
My installation manual for the transfer switch says not to run cables into the top or bottom of the cabinet. I really need to go into the top for my indoor installation. Do you know why the instructions say not to?
Ignore the Instructions. Just make sure that the cables are held Tightly. I don't remember seeing that limitation. You may need to pop a hole on the bottom. See my 35KW Generator Installation video to see how its done.
are you talking about the LED Light inside the house? See this Video for my same wiring a similar Briggs generator, the wiring starts at 1:05: ua-cam.com/video/ZfQxptYsk0w/v-deo.html
Your info on the Generac isn't correct (maybe you had an old version?). I have a 17kW Generac set to run on NG (2014 model). The LCD menu has a easy setting process for picking the time and day of week to do weekly tests, as well as the option to do the 15 min tests as only 5 minutes, and to do it weekly, bi weekly, or monthly. Some even have a "quiet test" mode that runs at 1800 rpms instead of 3600 rpms, though its not a big deal.
Danger Will Robinson... That panel looks like a fire hazard ... Man what a mess of wires you got there... And at 23:05 you said 4 amps ... I don't think you realized that your fluke was set to read AC Voltage and it was reading ac voltage inductance from that clamp sensor ... Then you had the clamp meter on the 120V leg thinking you were reading amperage which you were not. Your red wire from the clamp sensor should have been plugged into the LEFT SIDE red port of 15A ( at 26:25) to get the amperage reading from the clamp sensor .. Thats when you realized something was wrong and you ended the video .. All you had to do was move that red wire to the 15A port and your amperage would have been shown on the meter ...
I actually thank you for advising me on how to measure inductive current. I am. Ot an electrician, just a guy with a multimeter. I will double check next time. The mess of wires are how this box comes from the manufacturer. It's really just a switch box. Much Appreciated and subscribe for updates!
I was talking about the breaker box ... That electrician did a scary job.. I am no electrician but i do know how it works and i do my own electrical work around the house.. But i would NEVER allow an electrician to leave my breaker panel looking like that, sure its safe and nothing will touch or arc, but its looks like a fire waiting to happen and that would bother the shit out of me every time i saw it ...
@@silverbankruptcy with all due respect, "guys with multimeters" get killed. You're dealing with serious hazards with your generator system. You need to have trained professionals working on your equipment. You are clearly not cut out for it based the fact that you can't even set your multimeter correctly to read your amperage. I don't say this to be rude, I say it to keep you safe. I've been installing generators for 10 years. Leave it to the pros.
My mom has this model. Replaced battery May 2019, stopped working this month. It is eating batteries! Do you know how to replace the battery charger, or can you point me to a manual? Authorized service rep is totally swamped, which I guess is fitting since we're in NOLA. But seriously, I am not comfortable with her electric being unreliable with hurricane season underway, so I am willing to risk messing with it myself. Thanks.
The issue is getting parts, I think the probably the Circuit Board at 3:51 I would call the Briggs and Stratton 800 number. They are very helpful, though getting service is impossible even on a good say. When replacing it. Take a video of the wiring first. Then change the wires one at a time. keep me updated!
My Briggs and Stratton generator came on this morning for its weekly test but promptly shut off after less than a minute. I checked it and and it said "Engine Over Speed." I did not try to restart it, yet. Does anyone know what causes this error and what the fix is? Thanks
I assume you had this unit for a long time and.it usually works well. Spray up the carb butterfly and linkage with WD40 and then some silicon lube on the linkage and.on the electric motor which is on the right compartment above the battery. Make sure that it moves as it could be stuck and overspeeding the engine. My experience is that this can happen but clears up after an error or two. Dont worry.tlyou won't damage anything.
He used this plastic piece with a metal connector inside that gets tightened with a Hex key. Incoming wire gets hexes tightened and the new wire gets tightened as well. Much like what you see right outside your house connecting the power line to the house line. Just look up.
@@jimmybeee5 See my Notes in the Video Text for details on the wiring. 12/2 for charging battery and cold start kit. 18 gauge is for low voltage communication only.
It Generally sounds like a Lawnmower in a Box. Not Terribly Loud, but Loud. One day it exercised in single Degree Temps outside, and it sounded like a Plane was Taking Off in my backyard. I have told my neighbors that in a blackout I will give them electricity if they have a long extension cord. That seems to have satisfied everyone.
A blown head gasket is one such possible cause, and it requires tear down, repair and reassembly of the engine. Other internal engine possibilities causing the oil problem include a damaged cylinder or worn cylinder rings. ... If they fail, oil can back up through the carburetor and into the air filter.
I just had the same generator installed and the briggs and stratton 200amp xfer switch doesn't communicate the xfer of power from the power service to the generator. The electrician says that i need a certified B&S dealer send someone out to tweak the communication SW on the generator. WHAT A SANDWICH!!! Has anyone heard of anything like this?
please tell me specifically what happens. do you have the LED light which shows the error codes on the gen? Is the Gen giving an error? My first guess is the wiring, connect the two wires on one side, and on the other side disconnect them from the generator and check continuity. Then check the Dip switches, they can change from the force of mounting the panel. Then shut off the Power on the Transfer switch for 10 seconds and it will Reset the Transfer Switch and check it again. Please Keep us Updated.
Briggs came and tried to adjust the communication board to xfer switch software. After hours they gave up and said I needed a new board. Problem is that the new board they installed didn't have the wire and mini connector to connect to the antenna on top of the generator cover. The technicians that took the old board with the com cable have no interest in wanting to help me connect to my remote again. Anyone know anything about this or how I can give it a DIY fix?
are the 12 gauge transfer switch wires already hooked up, or are they sitting in units breaker box, I was thinking all I had to do was hook my 4/3 feed going to transfer case
In this past installation they were hooked up. They attach from where the utility comes in and are needed to notify the generator when there is a power outage, as they go dead. They also supply the battery charger and heater. See my Generac 20KW generator video. This issue came up there. Thank you and Subscribe for updates.
Still Running. The house was sold, but the new owner reports that it's still working well. I did back when spray conformal coating on the wires to extra protect it and that ended up making the off switch not function anymore, but that button is not really used. So generator still runs but new owners are neglecting the oil changes. Not much I can do about that, even though I am tempted to change the oil myself.
Going off grid with any generator will cost 2x-3x the cost of grid power. If you burn 1 gal of fuel per hour for 12hrs per day, you’ll use 370 gallons of fuel. Multiply that by $3/gal and you’re pushing $1000/mo.
+Chaz 9791 I don't see why that would be a problem. Its basically a box of Relays. It may look funny, but if your cramped for space and there is no alternative, it makes sense. Also see my 35KW Generator with Transfer switch installation video. ua-cam.com/video/ZfQxptYsk0w/v-deo.html
Quiet is difficult when your creating Killowats of electricity by burning fuels to create physical energy. For occasional outages the noise tradeoffs are acceptable.
@@simongrech5689 that's how it works. Your panel effectively becomes a sub panel to the transfer switch which decides which electric source to feed the panel, Either utility or generator.
Aside from all the comments you've already received from electricians regarding NEC, the National Fire Protection Assn code NFPA 37, section 4.1.4 requires that generators be installed at a distance of at least 5 feet from structures. It looks like your generator may be much too close to your house.
RJ N this is not entirely true. there are two exceptions. 1. if the walls are 1 hour fire rated. 2. if the enclosure is fire rated. if either is true, there is no separation requirement, other than accessibility.
called b.s. tech to find info on wiring a.c. to b terminals of the power management system(symphony2 transfer switch) and they have no clue how or what im talking about help someone please
For More Info, See my 35KW Briggs & Stratton Generator Video, as it's all the Same Exact Wiring in detail. I checked the Transfer switch Terminals with a Multimeter. Manual says that Top one is Low voltage (to Interrupt the 24V wires leading to contactor (relay) on the Central AC Unit Outside). Manual says that The Bottom one is for up to 120V Appliances. My Testing Shows that the Bottom One Never Works, so Don't Use it. I use the Top one Successfully on Both Transfer switches in Both Videos for my 5 Ton AC Unit by interrupting 24 Volt Wires to delay it five minutes after generator turns on. My Second unit, a 3 1/2 Ton Unit is Not delayed so It runs upon load Transfer. The 20KW Generator is Large enough to handle both of these systems anyway, so I wouldn't sweat it. Basically, run two wires from the Two screws in the top terminal of the Transfer Switch. Then find the two low voltage wires leading to the AC Compressor outside. Cut ONE of the AC Wires and splice each side of the cut wire to the Two Wires that you brought from the Transfer Switch. Thats it DONE! If any problems, contact me.
Your best bet is to purchase a Briggs low voltage module and connected it in series with every device you need a time delay, you can connect up to 8 module 120/240 to generator and transfer switch.
derek brewer thats a Great Option. Reality is for 2 units just hook one AC up to the delay relay on the transfer switch and the generator can handle one AC unit on startup. For more, your advice is Excellent.
derek brewer Question. I did purchase a dual module for my AC units but the wiring directions seem a little vague. It say to just connect the control wire from the thermostat. But given multiple wires coming from the thermostat which one would be the control? Have you done it?
I thought it has to be at least 5 ft away from the window and at least 9 ft from the property line... NY codes see you have a islander shirt on,....lol
Thank You Inspector Clouseau! This unit has since been sold and removed so I can't measure it. I find that the video makes it look closer than I recall it was in real life, and I think it was about five feet away, anyway that's history. I hope that the video is helpful to anyone contemplating installing a generator.
I'm looking to get on myself but would have to put it by my detached garage no other spot to put it next to my house.... And i was asking a question in regards to where you were showing it ......
@@richardpietrafesa7972 no problem. These machines are like your oven They burn natural gas so they give off carbon dioxide and almost no carbon monoxide. So I wouldn't worry about safety. Most codes require it should be 5 feet from a window Distance from home depends upon building material. Dont worry, Just protect your family. Best of wishes
silverbankruptcy go to the advance menu by holding down the left, right and X button at the same time for afew seconds thwn scroll right to software version
ok, I may be able to go there in a few months. But why is this useful? Have there been changes to the firmware that make a difference? Can the End User update it himself?
silverbankruptcy my board came defective so I bought one from online and my technician told.mw that the software might be different t because its not acting right it's giving me errors, I'm not getting ac out the generator, and it only runs for about 10 seconds, revs all the way up and shuts down
The computer is very simple on these units, it basically replaces what could be handled by relays. The hardware is all the same, and I doubt that the software varies at all since it just keeps track of a few variables. I had the same problem with my generator, watch this video where I open the computer. Are you getting an Overspeed Error? The problem I had was exactly the same. I opened up the computer and saw that one wire from the computer on top (it detaches with 4 screws) was not connected to the Circuit Board underneath, with the same symptoms that you describe. Remove the Computer and Double Check the wires. Each wire is Numbered in a sequence that matches the circuit board underneath, if you look closely. Maybe a wire was swapped.
Follow my advice below and if it doesn't help, ask and I will give my email address. By the way, you look a little young. Does your mom know that you are working with 240 Volts?
People you can not spice in a panel or use the panel as a raceway these are code violations. You must feed the transfer switch directly from the meter then you can refeed your panel from the load side of the transfer switch relay .This so called electrician can not be licensed and they definitely did not get an inspection
Myron Smith yes, it was corrected. The video was just a temporary connection. The delay on transfer is an intentional setting of a moveable plug connection on the transfer switch. I want the gen to warm up for a minute before the load gets transferred onto it. I believe that the generator temp should reach operating temp on an idle first. Its like warming up your car before driving. People can disagree, but I let it warm up first. Thanks for your sharp eyed advice! See the other videos and subscribe!
It is not a violation to splice in the gutter space of the circuit panel as long as you do not use over 40%. However, you are correct about the feeders not coming directly from the meter. Here you have Service Entrance conductors and feeders in the same conduit, that is a problem. Also, if the Transfer Switch is now your Main Disconnect then the neutral and grounds have to be separated in the Circuit Panel. Not a fun scenario since there is no clearance to work. Then again, maybe this entire installation is in some location where they have not adopted any building or electrical codes. That would clearly explain away all of the violations.
So you can run your whole home on this generator but you can only enjoy it for a short period before your neighbour puts a round between your eyes. That's a noisy nasty unit.
I wouldn't be showing that abortion that is an embarrassment. If an electrician did that I'd be selling the house that whole panel looks like a homeowner cheapskate job!
I am not an electrician, I only play one on youtube. 240V X 80 Amps = 19,200 Watts, perfect for a 20KW Gen that at most generates 18KW (18,000 watts) on NG. 12/3 is all that is needed as there is little load on those 2 wires, those are just "Sense" wires for gen to see whether power went out. They only power the oil heater and the battery charger, probably no more than 100Watts, so it's fine.
I show people how to do it themselves and make it work and troubleshoot it. If you want an expert go hire one, but I don't see experts sharing this information on UA-cam, they are selfishly protecting their profits.
@@silverbankruptcy There are contractors sharing all one has to do is look. As a DIYer sharing that's fine, I have no qualms. Just do your homework and research befor you post inaccurate information.
Sorry to see so many "experts" comment in a nasty way…anyway, I am a propane service technician and I can confirm for you that your 1" gas line is more that adequate for the Btu load your unit demands. The only change I would make in your plumbing is a drip leg/sediment trap prior to the point at which the hard piping transitions into the flex line. This can be achieved with a tee, a 6" nipple and a cap. Also, periodically have the regulator at the tank checked for proper flow, as the spring inside the diaphragm weakens over time reducing the volume of fuel downstream. Thanks for sharing on "the Tube"!
Generator tech here. What a game what a day what a life
Just ordered a 20 KW (B&S) and I thank you for all the quality info. I just hope they get it installed before the next Dorian.
Good Choice! that is the purpose of my video!
I show the good and the not so good. You should enjoy your generator in good health and in safety!
HELLOOOOO can anyone hear 👂 me
My goodness that thing is loud
Good luck with the noise level
Just installed a 26KW Briggs with two Symphony II transfer switches. Works like a charm.
Glad to hear, a good choice! Interesting that they squeeze out 26KW out of the same 993CC engine as the 20KW one.
Hi why do you need two transfer switches. Also is 26kw overkill? I am comparing 20kw BS vs 26kw, we have a 3200 sq foot home Thanks
Your tip on downloading the manuals for the generator and panel is a real good point. My generac came with mine, but the website has them in color. You should always have the documentation for your whole power system both at the panel, but also inside somewhere you can find in a power outage.
Another good tip is to have an emergency light wired in above your panel, so it turns on during an outage and makes trouble shooting at the panel much easier. These are LED fixtures with internal battery that flip on when the grid power is missing. It might be good to have a switchable one outside over the generator as well though that may be overkill if you have a magnetic flashlight you're good to go. ;)
Speak to the manufacturer. This power is Much better than my Generac GP7500E was, as I can see much less flickering of the lights. I did use the generac to power a desktop and a laptop with no problems. Test it first. On-Line UPS Technology is best because it will accept input power with relatively wide variations in voltage and frequency. An on-line UPS actually re-develops the waveform. The AC input from either the mains or a standby generator is first converted to DC by the rectifier.
I don’t know but the Briggs really looks to be better quality
I have the same unit. 9 years old. Battery died. Next: figure out how to open the hood, so I can change oil and filter and air filter. Service contractor wants 100 bucks service call and 100 bucks an hour to do the things described above. Thanks for the video.
So Happy To Hear that I can Help Someone! See my Tune Up Video on this unit and especially my Oil Change Video of this unit Here: ua-cam.com/video/DLo8gnjk_Io/v-deo.html
I would recommend this to anyone
Nice video thank you! Running a gas line with galvanized pipe that's a No No! Black pipe only!
At least it will not rust?
Watch Part -2:
Ww Got Both Central Air Conditioning Compressors To Run on Generator Power.
Successfully Powering most of the lights on the house as well as a 5 Ton AC Unit and a 3 1/2 Ton Unit and the appliances in the house. Fluke Multimeter said that the Generator was putting out 31 Amps which X 240 Volts is only 7,440 Watts which is less than half of what this generator can put out, which is 18KW on Natural Gas. This leaves plenty of reserve to help the Neighbors (if they're nice).
I am Noticing an Issue with the Exhaust. Even though the unit sits on a slab, it exhausts out the front and the exhaust has killed a swath of grass about two feet long by eight inches wide. I am looking into placing a metal plate near the bottom to funnel the exhaust upwards to protect the grass. Anyone else have a solution?
Just for comparison, the Generac (and the Honeywell branded ones available at Costco, but made by Generac) come with 200 amp transfer switches that look very similar to your B&S panel, but they come with an Overload shedding board in the ATS that will control/kick off 4 circuits... 2 of which are AC capable, and #3 and #4 that are just normal 120v controllers. Sounds like the GE panel may be similar.
Also generac allows you to set your run time any day of the week as well
I have one They will finish the install tomorrow.
Great. Keep us updated if any issues arise.
Update: Clock on the Machine does not update for Daylight Savings Time. I therefore changed the Exercise Cycle to start one hour earlier, so that it starts at 11:00 or 10:00am depending upon DST. I left the incorrect hour on the time. I just felt that 12:00pm could be an issue with my family or a Neighbor eating lunch with that noise running. It's best to set exercising when people are generally at work. Of course we have had no blackouts since we installed this generator.
silverbankruptcy Well explained! Thank you. Where can I get the manual? I have the same unit and it is showing an error “Engine does not start” and I want to troubleshoot it. Thanks!
On the weekly exercise, I got two Errors:
Low Voltage (Generator, FC_3)
Low Frequency (FC_5)
I thought that it might be a fuel issue, as I always had concerns that the 1 inch gas line that directly runs 40 feet from the meter, might be insufficient, but I couldn't imagine that it would give an error on low demand Idle. So I shut off the house power and generator started up in the 9 Degree weather and I loaded it with about 5KW of Demand by turning on all appliances and then I turned on the Gas Boiler all the way up, and two ovens as well to see if it was a gas starvation problem. My Gas meter Spun like a Top, but the Generator had No Problems at All. In fact the generator runs a drop rough on Idle, and I hear what Briggs Told me is a "Lean Miss" on Idle. The engine just isn't happy on Idle. When i put the Load on it, the engine Purred. I am a little puzzled and will keep an eye on it. Maybe it's weather related. Also to note, the All Weather Kit is Mandatory, even in New York, we have had single digit temps and below zero with windchill. The Kit makes the metal plate under the battery Too Hot to touch and also warms up the engine oil. Its Great, but I am sure it uses more than the 60 watts that Briggs Claims. I also wrapped the Battery in a thin fiberglass insulation blanket, to help keep it toasty warm. All of this complexity shows you the benefits of the simplicity of a converting a portable generator to Natural Gas, instead of this system which is wonderful but complex.
Your electrical installation is incorrect. You cannot sleeve romex through sealtite outside; all conduit outside of a building is considered a wet location, romex is listed for dry locations only.
clown. so long as its in a conduit you can use romex. Journeyman Electrician here.
@@mdrmoose you should read your code book than, journeyman. Check 334.12(B)(4) and 225.22 The inside of any conduit that is located outside is considered a wet location. NM is only listed for dry locations. I'm a master electrician and electrical instructor.
@@leesummers6979 IDK how you can call yourself a master electrician! Your making up code, NOWHERE does it say that the inside of a conduit is a wet location. Refer to 334.10(5), and 334.15 (B). You are explicitly allowed to install NMC in a conduit. Where do you teach? Stop lying to your students!
I literally just showed you the code articles... maybe you should read them before running your mouth
@@leesummers6979 I literally read them, and cited codes that specifically say you are allowed to use NMC in conduit.
Maybe you should read them. Shame a master electrician doesnt know how to interpret the code book.
Also please cite the code that says 'all conduit outside of a building is considered a wet location". Where do you teach because you are failing your students!
Thanks for your video, it’s very informative.
I had a low voltage ready and decided to change the 5 year old battery. It had a Napa car battery and I wanted to improve that with a Duracell battery from Sam’s, but it had a cca of 800 and only 550 cca is needed.
The fuse blew as soon as I tried to manually run it, after replacing the 15a fuse a few times I called Briggs, but they would not even discuss it, but wanted me to call Battery Plus. They said that too much cca could overwhelm the fuse. I then purchased new Napa battery exactly like the original and yes it’s cca was about 560, closer to what’s needed by generator.
But it’s still blowing the fuse when I try to manually start it. Any ideas on what to check?
It has been a very reliable Briggs 20 kw standby home generator. Model 40346.
I'm considering buying this generator, but am wondering if the output is stable enough to power battery UPS's like an APC smartups 1500. I have 2 generators, a 6500 watt gas and a 3000 watt inverter model. The 6500 watt model does not put out clean enough power for my UPS's, the 3000 watt inverter does. I have several servers that are connected to smartups 1000's and 1500's and would like to use this for standby power, but want to make sure it will power my UPS's without issue.
I sure as hell want it, and I also sure as hell cant afford it. Nice vid :P
I'd have to go with the larger four cylinder, liquid cooled engine. The engine shown here is the equivalent to what I have on my riding mower...it's loud.
Your Right, It's Loud, Like a Lawnmower. See My 4 Cylinder 35KW Generator Video. Thats Loud as well, but in a Heavy Engine type way, not as high pitched. Its also much more reliable.
pmgodfrey ....cost
Hey Woody! COOL!
For a 20KW generator would you choose Briggs or Generac. Both being offered with 10yr warranty parts and labor. Well known large local installer. Thanks in advance!
Constant moving of the camera in fast motions hurts my eyes.
as in the blair witch project or any steven segal fight scene lol
Comm cable to remote please
Did you make a video of the oil change? I have a B&S Fortress 12kW with the Vanguard engine,10 yr warranty
yES, tHANK yOU!: ua-cam.com/video/oM8mpJBt0CY/v-deo.html
Check out 11:00. Why would a genset pull fresh air into the engine via the battery compartment? Such a bad design flaw! During colder months (below freezing) this means freezing cold air is chilling, potentially freezing the battery. it would be smarter to segregate the battery compartment and avoid pulling cold, damp air across the battery. I would add extra insulation around the battery and if you have a battery heater, well, what's the point?
These types of issues are basically cost cutting to get a market price that people will pay.
The owner should insulate and install a batter heater, though once the gen starts the battery is not used.
Why did you choose the briggs vs the genrac or kohler..??
From what I see, all of these generators are very similar.
In the 30KW and up they all use packaged engines from AC Delco and just attach their own computer.
In the 20KW range they are all similar. I like B&S because they design engines themselves and they put the induction voltage measuring rings in the transfer switch and not shoved into the tight generator. I also see that B&S keeps everything as simple as possible. The switch and the computer have few options and are designed to remove anything that can cause a problem, there is also no gas pressure monitoring sensor that can cause generals to not work in lower gas pressure locations, like mine. Also on the 20KW Briggs mounts the steeper motor away from the generator, see my videos, that's a good way to preserve it.
I see it as a simple and good design. I am familiar with B&S so its e as systems to stick with it as I know all of the possible issues when installing it. Generally though, 2OKW use a almost 1 Litre engine that operates on a suicide mission with a lifespan of just 3 months of continuous use at 3600 RPM, and so better to get a 35KW gen with a car engine running at 1800 RPM, see.my video.
So the 20K watt engine runs at 3600 rpm all the time even at half load..??
nobody will be running this thing 24/7 for 3 months... Yes they are made for power outages so worst case, they will run for 8 straight days until power is restored after hurricane or tornado or earthquake ... Thats 192 straight hours of use... 3 months time 24/7 is ~2160 hrs ... Are you saying that the life expectancy of these motors is 2160 working hours..?? Because now you just took 192 hrs away from its life leaving you with ~1968 hrs of use...
Spending $5k+ on this unit does not seen like its worth the $$ when i expect it to stay the life of the home and to be there ready when needed... Sometimes i think its cheaper to get a portable 7k watt ..
Maybe i am seeing this wrong..??
You are correct. It runs at 3600 RPM all the time, very Loud!
1800 RPM ones run all the time at 1800 RPM because they need the required number of cycles to keep up the voltage, regardless of load. I don't disagree regarding the portable unit, get a Winco or Honda unit, see my video on the portable generator workshop, but then again, its not auto startup. I want enough for my neighbors as well.
here is the deal...
We are going to build a 5k sq ft home in 2019... I have a portable 7kW generator now in my current home. This new home is supposed to be our "retirement" home so we need a generator for back up power. I don't want to spend $5k+ on a 22kW generator that wont live with the house for ~30 yrs... Granted the power wont be going out all the time so the generator wont be used as much but i need to know if this 22kW generator can hold up for ~30 yrs and be there when needed. If not, then i will invest in a portable 10k watt generator and be done..
Go with the Portable. See My Portable Video: ua-cam.com/video/L0453eMCat8/v-deo.html
Can you please give a 7-year update? I appreciate the video.
Yes. This was sold to a friend but I still change the oil for him. It runs well. Once we had an error, which was fixed by spraying sicone spray on the stepper motor and linkage. Its a good generator for a regular size house and uts very low maintenance. You Must change the oil every year since it gets dirty because the engine is less than car engine tolerances so the carbon gets into the oil. Its a good gen for an occasional outage.
good morning I present this fault Briggs & Stratton Standby Generator "Direct Power Remote Disable" error message how do I solve it
it appears the issue is with the TX/RX and TXGND twisted pair cable. If this is shorted or shorted to gnd then the error occurs. This is suppose to be an interlock safety micro switch to protect utility workers when disconnecting incoming power such that the generator does not start.
Although it is not documented in the manuals there is a "clear remote disable" option in the advanced programming mode.
Check that this twisted pair is not shorted or shorted to gound.
If you hold left Arrow/right Arrow and esc at the same time until "yes" appears. this is the advanced programming mode.
The "yes" will be blinking.
Hit the OK button.
Adv to the next item
come to the "clear remote disable"
press left arrow, esc, right arrow
should get place panel
start up in auto or manual mode.
However fixing the line will not clear the error.
On B&S generators you must go into adv programming and clear the error message after fixing the problem.
If you have not fixed the problem the error message will come back after you have cleared it.
Best of Luck.
Get your hand and that pointer out of the panels!!!! Imagine someone watching, not knowing the hazards, and sticking their hand into a live panel because they saw you doing it.
I have the same model. It runs fine manually. When it does it’s weekly test run, it surges and starts, then revs very high and shuts down and pops a code “engine will not run”. I’ve had repair techs out 4 times and they say it’s fine and do nothing. I’m at a loss for what to do to repair it. Suggestions?
Open up the front and spray silicone lubricant on all parts of the linkage from into the stepper motor that's hidden on the right to all of the connection that the motor pushes to control the engine. I had the same exact problem on my 35KW. You're engine is hunting and failing. It turns out that exact problem on my 35KW was due to the engine heater failing. Do you have one? I can't explain why I had the same it works on manual but it's the heater. I had the same perplexing problem. I promise. Try heating up the engine with a block heater before the exercise mode time, and see if that helps.
You can watch the similar problem in my 35kw problem video
My installation manual for the transfer switch says not to run cables into the top or bottom of the cabinet. I really need to go into the top for my indoor installation. Do you know why the instructions say not to?
Ignore the Instructions.
Just make sure that the cables are held Tightly. I don't remember seeing that limitation. You may need to pop a hole on the bottom. See my 35KW Generator Installation video to see how its done.
Which wire is for the remote in the house and where did you connect to? I REALLY NEED TO KNOW THIS PLEASE¡
are you talking about the LED Light inside the house? See this Video for my same wiring a similar Briggs generator, the wiring starts at 1:05: ua-cam.com/video/ZfQxptYsk0w/v-deo.html
Your info on the Generac isn't correct (maybe you had an old version?).
I have a 17kW Generac set to run on NG (2014 model). The LCD menu has a easy setting process for picking the time and day of week to do weekly tests, as well as the option to do the 15 min tests as only 5 minutes, and to do it weekly, bi weekly, or monthly. Some even have a "quiet test" mode that runs at 1800 rpms instead of 3600 rpms, though its not a big deal.
Отлично!!!
Спасибо!!!
Danger Will Robinson...
That panel looks like a fire hazard ... Man what a mess of wires you got there...
And at 23:05 you said 4 amps ... I don't think you realized that your fluke was set to read AC Voltage and it was reading ac voltage inductance from that clamp sensor ... Then you had the clamp meter on the 120V leg thinking you were reading amperage which you were not. Your red wire from the clamp sensor should have been plugged into the LEFT SIDE red port of 15A ( at 26:25) to get the amperage reading from the clamp sensor .. Thats when you realized something was wrong and you ended the video .. All you had to do was move that red wire to the 15A port and your amperage would have been shown on the meter ...
I actually thank you for advising me on how to measure inductive current.
I am. Ot an electrician, just a guy with a multimeter. I will double check next time. The mess of wires are how this box comes from the manufacturer. It's really just a switch box. Much Appreciated and subscribe for updates!
I was talking about the breaker box ... That electrician did a scary job.. I am no electrician but i do know how it works and i do my own electrical work around the house.. But i would NEVER allow an electrician to leave my breaker panel looking like that, sure its safe and nothing will touch or arc, but its looks like a fire waiting to happen and that would bother the shit out of me every time i saw it ...
@@silverbankruptcy with all due respect, "guys with multimeters" get killed. You're dealing with serious hazards with your generator system. You need to have trained professionals working on your equipment. You are clearly not cut out for it based the fact that you can't even set your multimeter correctly to read your amperage. I don't say this to be rude, I say it to keep you safe. I've been installing generators for 10 years. Leave it to the pros.
My mom has this model. Replaced battery May 2019, stopped working this month. It is eating batteries! Do you know how to replace the battery charger, or can you point me to a manual?
Authorized service rep is totally swamped, which I guess is fitting since we're in NOLA. But seriously, I am not comfortable with her electric being unreliable with hurricane season underway, so I am willing to risk messing with it myself.
Thanks.
The issue is getting parts, I think the probably the Circuit Board at 3:51 I would call the Briggs and Stratton 800 number. They are very helpful, though getting service is impossible even on a good say. When replacing it. Take a video of the wiring first. Then change the wires one at a time. keep me updated!
My Briggs and Stratton generator came on this morning for its weekly test but promptly shut off after less than a minute. I checked it and and it said "Engine Over Speed." I did not try to restart it, yet. Does anyone know what causes this error and what the fix is? Thanks
I assume you had this unit for a long time and.it usually works well.
Spray up the carb butterfly and linkage with WD40 and then some silicon lube on the linkage and.on the electric motor which is on the right compartment above the battery. Make sure that it moves as it could be stuck and overspeeding the engine. My experience is that this can happen but clears up after an error or two. Dont worry.tlyou won't damage anything.
This information is extremely helpful. Please tell me: How did you splice the #2 cable that had originally fed your main breaker?
He used this plastic piece with a metal connector inside that gets tightened with a Hex key. Incoming wire gets hexes tightened and the new wire gets tightened as well. Much like what you see right outside your house connecting the power line to the house line. Just look up.
Did you have the cold weather kit installed? I'm curious if the 18 guage utility cable is adequate to also run this kit.
@@jimmybeee5 See my Notes in the Video Text for details on the wiring. 12/2 for charging battery and cold start kit. 18 gauge is for low voltage communication only.
Yeah extremely helpful , I’ll make sure not to buy one to noisy
How loud is the standby generator compared to a lawnmower? Does the neighbor complain about the noise?
It Generally sounds like a Lawnmower in a Box. Not Terribly Loud, but Loud. One day it exercised in single Degree Temps outside, and it sounded like a Plane was Taking Off in my backyard. I have told my neighbors that in a blackout I will give them electricity if they have a long extension cord. That seems to have satisfied everyone.
Have a 20k generator that started blowing oil into the carburator, any suggestions on repairing it?
A blown head gasket is one such possible cause, and it requires tear down, repair and reassembly of the engine. Other internal engine possibilities causing the oil problem include a damaged cylinder or worn cylinder rings. ... If they fail, oil can back up through the carburetor and into the air filter.
I just had the same generator installed and the briggs and stratton 200amp xfer switch doesn't communicate the xfer of power from the power service to the generator. The electrician says that i need a certified B&S dealer send someone out to tweak the communication SW on the generator.
WHAT A SANDWICH!!!
Has anyone heard of anything like this?
please tell me specifically what happens. do you have the LED light which shows the error codes on the gen? Is the Gen giving an error? My first guess is the wiring, connect the two wires on one side, and on the other side disconnect them from the generator and check continuity. Then check the Dip switches, they can change from the force of mounting the panel. Then shut off the Power on the Transfer switch for 10 seconds and it will Reset the Transfer Switch and check it again. Please Keep us Updated.
Poor you that thing is loud
B&S really is BS SINCE they won't help me with this problem
Briggs came and tried to adjust the communication board to xfer switch software. After hours they gave up and said I needed a new board. Problem is that the new board they installed didn't have the wire and mini connector to connect to the antenna on top of the generator cover. The technicians that took the old board with the com cable have no interest in wanting to help me connect to my remote again.
Anyone know anything about this or how I can give it a DIY fix?
are the 12 gauge transfer switch wires already hooked up, or are they sitting in units breaker box, I was thinking all I had to do was hook my 4/3 feed going to transfer case
In this past installation they were hooked up. They attach from where the utility comes in and are needed to notify the generator when there is a power outage, as they go dead. They also supply the battery charger and heater. See my Generac 20KW generator video. This issue came up there. Thank you and Subscribe for updates.
Also see my briggs 35KW Generator installation video. The wiring is shown in detail.
thanks
how much did you pay for it
8 years later.....how's it holding up?
Still Running. The house was sold, but the new owner reports that it's still working well. I did back when spray conformal coating on the wires to extra protect it and that ended up making the off switch not function anymore, but that button is not really used. So generator still runs but new owners are neglecting the oil changes. Not much I can do about that, even though I am tempted to change the oil myself.
@@silverbankruptcy thanks for replying
@@rockystelone21 thanks for contributing. It's all good when your helpful.
i want to get rid of the lectric bill what should i use i want everything gas
+earl snow How Many Killowats does your house Use?
Look into the Generac EcoGen for Off Grid Use.
Going off grid with any generator will cost 2x-3x the cost of grid power. If you burn 1 gal of fuel per hour for 12hrs per day, you’ll use 370 gallons of fuel. Multiply that by $3/gal and you’re pushing $1000/mo.
Never ever put two wires under the same terminal you are asking for trouble.
Damn that is loud........I hope Generac is not that loud
Are there any issues (mechanical or electronic) if the transfer switch box is mounted sideways?
+Chaz 9791 I don't see why that would be a problem. Its basically a box of Relays. It may look funny, but if your cramped for space and there is no alternative, it makes sense. Also see my 35KW Generator with Transfer switch installation video. ua-cam.com/video/ZfQxptYsk0w/v-deo.html
silverbankruptcy watched it over and over but I'm getting low frequency and under voltage error
Is that 3600 or 1800 rpm engine?
It's a 2 cylinder 20KW 3600RPM. Basically anything larger is 4 cylinder running at 1800 RPM. See my video on the Briggs 35KW Generator.
You better find a different electrician
I saw about 6 code violations in about 10 seconds at your panel and Xfer switch
This unit was sold and removed. Everything worked well while it ran.
and as ever no one will sell a quiet generator, I will go with battery
Quiet is difficult when your creating Killowats of electricity by burning fuels to create physical energy. For occasional outages the noise tradeoffs are acceptable.
Did the breaker in the transfer switch came with it or you purchased it separate?
you get it together at electricgeneratorsdirect.com/
silverbankruptcy did you guys turn your main panel into a sub-panel?
@@simongrech5689 that's how it works.
Your panel effectively becomes a sub panel to the transfer switch which decides which electric source to feed the panel, Either utility or generator.
Aside from all the comments you've already received from electricians regarding NEC, the National Fire Protection Assn code NFPA 37, section 4.1.4 requires that generators be installed at a distance of at least 5 feet from structures. It looks like your generator may be much too close to your house.
***** My aunt just had a generator installed that close to her house in massachusetts. Pass permits with no issues and company warranties, insures it.
RJ N
this is not entirely true. there are two exceptions. 1. if the walls are 1 hour fire rated. 2. if the enclosure is fire rated. if either is true, there is no separation requirement, other than accessibility.
Everybody is an expert until they aren’t.
Ouchhh my ears 👂 dangggg
That thing is LOUD !!!!
called b.s. tech to find info on wiring a.c. to b terminals of the power management system(symphony2 transfer switch) and they have no clue how or what im talking about help someone please
For More Info, See my 35KW Briggs & Stratton Generator Video, as it's all the Same Exact Wiring in detail. I checked the Transfer switch Terminals with a Multimeter. Manual says that Top one is Low voltage (to Interrupt the 24V wires leading to contactor (relay) on the Central AC Unit Outside). Manual says that The Bottom one is for up to 120V Appliances. My Testing Shows that the Bottom One Never Works, so Don't Use it. I use the Top one Successfully on Both Transfer switches in Both Videos for my 5 Ton AC Unit by interrupting 24 Volt Wires to delay it five minutes after generator turns on. My Second unit, a 3 1/2 Ton Unit is Not delayed so It runs upon load Transfer. The 20KW Generator is Large enough to handle both of these systems anyway, so I wouldn't sweat it. Basically, run two wires from the Two screws in the top terminal of the Transfer Switch. Then find the two low voltage wires leading to the AC Compressor outside. Cut ONE of the AC Wires and splice each side of the cut wire to the Two Wires that you brought from the Transfer Switch. Thats it DONE! If any problems, contact me.
Your best bet is to purchase a Briggs low voltage module and connected it in series with every device you need a time delay, you can connect up to 8 module 120/240 to generator and transfer switch.
derek brewer thats a Great Option. Reality is for 2 units just hook one AC up to the delay relay on the transfer switch and the generator can handle one AC unit on startup. For more, your advice is Excellent.
derek brewer Question. I did purchase a dual module for my AC units but the wiring directions seem a little vague. It say to just connect the control wire from the thermostat. But given multiple wires coming from the thermostat which one would be the control? Have you done it?
FOGHORNNC do you have a heat pump or just air conditioner
10 kw briggs stratton natural gas.....cannot get it to start....no way no how
Can you post a video? It's either spark or fuel supply. Open the air filter box and Try spraying in 10w40 and see if the gen runs a little.
I thought it has to be at least 5 ft away from the window and at least 9 ft from the property line... NY codes see you have a islander shirt on,....lol
Thank You Inspector Clouseau! This unit has since been sold and removed so I can't measure it. I find that the video makes it look closer than I recall it was in real life, and I think it was about five feet away, anyway that's history. I hope that the video is helpful to anyone contemplating installing a generator.
I'm looking to get on myself but would have to put it by my detached garage no other spot to put it next to my house.... And i was asking a question in regards to where you were showing it ......
@@richardpietrafesa7972 no problem.
These machines are like your oven
They burn natural gas so they give off carbon dioxide and almost no carbon monoxide.
So I wouldn't worry about safety.
Most codes require it should be 5 feet from a window
Distance from home depends upon building material.
Dont worry, Just protect your family.
Best of wishes
Your to close to the house and your right under a window. That two code violations two minutes into the vid
Can anybody tell me whats the software version on this unit briggs and stratton 20kw
I don't have this unit anymore, but I may be able to check in a few months. How do I Look for it?
silverbankruptcy go to the advance menu by holding down the left, right and X button at the same time for afew seconds thwn scroll right to software version
ok, I may be able to go there in a few months. But why is this useful?
Have there been changes to the firmware that make a difference? Can the End User update it himself?
silverbankruptcy my board came defective so I bought one from online and my technician told.mw that the software might be different t because its not acting right it's giving me errors, I'm not getting ac out the generator, and it only runs for about 10 seconds, revs all the way up and shuts down
The computer is very simple on these units, it basically replaces what could be handled by relays. The hardware is all the same, and I doubt that the software varies at all since it just keeps track of a few variables. I had the same problem with my generator, watch this video where I open the computer. Are you getting an Overspeed Error? The problem I had was exactly the same. I opened up the computer and saw that one wire from the computer on top (it detaches with 4 screws) was not connected to the Circuit Board underneath, with the same symptoms that you describe. Remove the Computer and Double Check the wires. Each wire is Numbered in a sequence that matches the circuit board underneath, if you look closely. Maybe a wire was swapped.
is there any way i can contact u
Follow my advice below and if it doesn't help, ask and I will give my email address. By the way, you look a little young. Does your mom know that you are working with 240 Volts?
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍
Don’t by Briggs and Stratton standby generator junk can’t get parts for my 15 year old generator
What are you talking about BS by far has the most part availability of the big 3
People you can not spice in a panel or use the panel as a raceway these are code violations. You must feed the transfer switch directly from the meter then you can refeed your panel from the load side of the transfer switch relay .This so called electrician can not be licensed and they definitely did not get an inspection
Myron Smith i think the distance is further than what appears in the video. I cant check because that unit was sold and removed some time ago.
silverbankruptcy - I hope you got the violations corrected and that was a long delay for start up and transfer
Myron Smith yes, it was corrected. The video was just a temporary connection. The delay on transfer is an intentional setting of a moveable plug connection on the transfer switch. I want the gen to warm up for a minute before the load gets transferred onto it. I believe that the generator temp should reach operating temp on an idle first. Its like warming up your car before driving. People can disagree, but I let it warm up first. Thanks for your sharp eyed advice! See the other videos and subscribe!
silverbankruptcy- Good man.And I have subscribed
It is not a violation to splice in the gutter space of the circuit panel as long as you do not use over 40%. However, you are correct about the feeders not coming directly from the meter. Here you have Service Entrance conductors and feeders in the same conduit, that is a problem. Also, if the Transfer Switch is now your Main Disconnect then the neutral and grounds have to be separated in the Circuit Panel. Not a fun scenario since there is no clearance to work. Then again, maybe this entire installation is in some location where they have not adopted any building or electrical codes. That would clearly explain away all of the violations.
So you can run your whole home on this generator but you can only enjoy it for a short period before your neighbour puts a round between your eyes. That's a noisy nasty unit.
H
I wouldn't be showing that abortion that is an embarrassment. If an electrician did that I'd be selling the house that whole panel looks like a homeowner cheapskate job!
It has been sold and it continues to work well in its new home.
Number 4 copper is 80 amps bud.....plus your 12/3 on your loo amp brkr? Wtf hack electrician did you talk to.....
Lol lol
I am not an electrician, I only play one on youtube. 240V X 80 Amps = 19,200 Watts, perfect for a 20KW Gen that at most generates 18KW (18,000 watts) on NG. 12/3 is all that is needed as there is little load on those 2 wires, those are just "Sense" wires for gen to see whether power went out. They only power the oil heater and the battery charger, probably no more than 100Watts, so it's fine.
Misinformation. You're definitely not a qualified installing tech.
I show people how to do it themselves and make it work and troubleshoot it. If you want an expert go hire one, but I don't see experts sharing this information on UA-cam, they are selfishly protecting their profits.
@@silverbankruptcy There are contractors sharing all one has to do is look. As a DIYer sharing that's fine, I have no qualms. Just do your homework and research befor you post inaccurate information.
How not to do. lol. Horrible electrical installation. So many amature mistakes. No way was this inspected. Also. at 3:40-3:41. Did someone fart??
Briggs & Stratton junk