The Secret to No-Jig Dowel Joinery //woodworking
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- Опубліковано 5 гру 2020
- #woodworking #joinery #tips
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In this week’s video, I demonstrate my method for dowel joinery without the use of a jig. This method requires the use of a brad point drill bit, which is the same diameter as the dowel used on your project. The real secret is how to accurately mark and drill one part of your project so that the adjoining parts can be accurately marked for the receiving holes. This process involves knowing how to dry fit as you progress through your project before the final assembly and glue-up. This system will work on almost any dowel joined piece of furniture with excellent results. You don't need a dowel jig.
DISCLAIMER: My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt to do anything that is shown in my videos. Woodworking and Metal Working are very dangerous activities and should only be performed by trained professionals.
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Hello Friends! Here is a side tip for actually drilling the holes: When you make your initial center mark using the brad point drill bit, you may still want to follow up with an awl to make the center mark deeper. This will make it much easier to drill your adjoining part and will help prevent the deflection. Also, when starting a hole, do not run the drill at full speed. Start the hole slowly, again, to avoid any misalignment or drift.
Another great video!
I gave up on dowel joinery a very long time ago. Now I'm thinking about trying again.
I think a lot of people give up on it. Especially after buying a jig and still having no luck. I know I've been there.
Love the angry troll bit
It depends a lot on the wood you are using. For example with douglas fur the difference in hardness between the growth rings is very high. It tends to not let you drill straight but deflect your drill bit.
It more has to do with the moisture content than the grain on doug fir. That is why it is important to use an awl to mark up your hole centers, even after using the brad point drill bit to mark the center. Also avoid running the drill at full speed at the beginning or you can get drift regardless of the species.
Hey, Why dont you mark your holes positions, fit the parts together and maintain with clamps then drill through the front plank?
I have done that in the past. Here's what can happen: When you are drilling the holes with the force of the drill and the rotation of the bit, your parts can slip out of alignment without you noticing. The only way I find that method works is when you brad nail the parts together, which I have also done. The safest system I found is the method in this video. Marking the parts using the actual bit will not shift anything out of alignment when you dry clamp it together, thus giving you perfectly centered holes for the adjoining parts.
@@EricSorensenCanada that sounds right, and if parts are too large to be clamped, this method is also accurate. The only thing is to be perpendicular to the surface.
Mant thanks for your answer and your videos ! 👍
My pleasure! Cheers🍺.🙂
Interested
thanks for your video. I use a spade bit to make kids chairs and im having trouble consistently producing back supports to leg joints because i've not used any jig, i think i need a custom jig. I use a spade bit, am i doing it wrong?
Get yourself a Forstner bit instead. It's like a whole new world. You'll never use spade bits again after that.🙂. Then, you could try making a pattern template out of thick plywood, so you can get your holes to line up consistently on each chair.
One potential problem I have is centering the drill bit to the tiny punched center. Sometimes I pre-drill a 1/8 hole, which is easy to center, and follow up with a larger bit because I don’t have a brad bit. This means I don’t need to clamp the wood with the larger bit because it finds it’s center easily. Not sure if that is good practice or not? Any comments?
Get yourself a good awl for marking your centers. That in combination with the brand point drill bit makes it easy to line everything up.
We didn't have you tube, phillips head screws, electric combination mitre saws, cordless variable speed drills etc.
Good point! All we really had was Popular Woodworking Magazine and a few other publications. I used to spend hours looking for books at the public library and used book stores. Incidentally, my college mate was a farm boy and learned all his basic woodworking tricks from his Dad and Grandfather.
Newbie here!
Do we need to use 9.5 mm drill bit for 9.5mm dowel or is it okay to use 10mm bit. Which is the best?
I have used 9.5 drill bit which gives me very tight fit however it is VERY difficult to remove the dowels after dry fit test. Your response is very much appreciated. Thanks!
It depends on the style of dowel you're using. You need room for glue if it's a permanent joint. Spiral dowelling are better for a snug fit and they allow for an even portion of glue contact (match the diameter). If you are just using plain dowelling, you may need a bit of room to fit. If it is too snug, roll a bit of 120 grit sandpaper around it and do a bit of light sanding. It doesn't take much.
How do you determine where the holes are going to be placed. Divide 3 ( holes) by width of board? Thanks
You do that by plotting your center marks on a grid. In my case I measured 1-1/8 inch from the edge on either side to get my vertical lines. Then I measure 1-1/8 from the top and bottom for the first two holes, and then two inches on center from the middle hole to the top and the bottom holes. Then you just punch a center mark at each line intersection with an awl.
Gr8 video,i use nipples that mark the other piece when no jig dowel joinery
For a, let’s say 3/8 dowel, what size of drill bit do you use. The same, 3/8 or slightly bigger ? 😊
It's best to use the matching size drill bit to the dowel. I recommend using dowel pins that are pre-cut that are fluted (channels for allowing more glue). Or you can buy plain dowel rods cut them to length and use a pair of serrated pliers to add the fluted surface yourself.