I don't know about anyone else but I sure do miss Martin as I find some older videos and watching them. I can't help but think he is in heaven keeping all the rvers up and running. Makes me happy to think about it. 😊
Great information here Martin, thank you. We all need to know our personal limitations as well as the tool limitations we have to deal with. The hardest part for me is finding people who are knowledgeable and professional, Jamail's shop fits the bill here for sure!
Hello again, I just wanted to give you an update on my RV. Although I didn't do any of the work (rear rotors and new brakes and calipers all around). My incredible mechanic let me hover over the job and he told me what he was doing and how as I took notes and helped a little bit by handing him tools and parts. I did reinstall the stainless steel air valve extenders myself. I checked and rechecked and rechecked....for leaks, and then checked again after the tires were put back on. Over the course of several hours I checked the air pressure all was well and I am back on the road! Thank you again for your videos! Safe and happy travels!
Great report Lois and-way to go-to get in there and see how stuff works, maintained and took notes. Put all this info in your maintenance log book for future reference.
Martin...once again the video was great....I live 20 minutes from Jamail's and already made an appointment! I spent 43 years in the oil patch and know preventive maintenance will always save future time money and of course safety.....
Be sure to mention me when you visit. I get no referral fee or anything like that but that way they'll know it paid off letting me video what they did to our coach. They're a great bunch of folks there.
Was looking for information on those of us with the oil bath setup on our front bearings, and came across this video. I do my own maintenance on my vehicles, but like you, would outsource this job. Just did brakes on my pickup truck, and the wife's car, and when under our Phaeton doing a grease job, thought I should ask on the oil bath setup, but will try to ask that in another forum, for those that have the same setup. Great video, as there are always little tips one can pick up on them!
I’m thinking I have a bit of time before George needs this service. I’m so happy you outsourced this job…I’m sure you wanted to do it yourself but this was a wise decision! Hope to see you guys soon!!
Ya we'll be heading your way in late Sept. early Oct. and Joanie said you might or might not be there so we can visit and mooch dock. We'll see. 😍 Tell Sir Loyd Benson I miss him.
Ya we'll be heading your way in late Sept. early Oct. and Joanie said you might or might not be there so we can visit and mooch dock. We'll see. 😍 Tell Sir Loyd Benson I miss him.
Some of you may be surprised that I outsourced this work and didn’t do it myself. I could of done this myself, but it would of been a 2-3 day job getting all the tools and materials I needed, actually doing the job, rental fees, returning all the equipment and probably some scraped knuckles. 😜 I got this job done in a little over 4hrs. and all I had to do was hand over a credit card. With me getting older now, having a weak back, my schedule being full of other things I need to be doing and being full time, this was the best option for me at this time. I am not affiliated with Jamail's what-so-ever. For you younger bucks, or those who have all the tools on hand this is not that big of a job to do. The grease we used for my bearings and the brake caliper slide bolts are in my Amazon Store in the “Tires, Engine and Chassis Care” category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
I am the same way. I enjoy doing all my work .. but recently had to change my radiator.. which is around a 6 to 8 hr job. I contemplated whether i should do it or outsource it .. after doing inventory of tools i needed plus 100 plus degree weather in south texas . I decided to find a local shop to do the work.. i had all the stuff needed... 10 gallons of fluid and the radiator. Was in and out 5 hrs with 3 guys working on it ..
I just finished 3 episodes of Martinizing and I have to ask which you enjoy more, the actual work or helping us understand the work? It's clear you love both.
Well to be honest I like doing the work more. Once I see the need to do something I just get after it and usually have it done in no time. To create a video about it, it takes a whole lot more work, planning, getting stuff together, plus retakes to make sure I cover what needs to be shown, editing, fixing any audio issues and the list goes on. But....if it helps folks it's all worth it and especially if they take the time to comment and say so...like you did. Thanks Mark. 🔧👏
You've made up my mind I was thinking of doing it myself but I'm 66 already and not as strong as I was my coach has 23000K miles but it's a 96 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE so the grease is old already I'm sure it needs it mine also has the same chassis thanks my friend your awesome.
Thanks so much for another awesome video! I have learned so much from watching your videos. I am a do it yourself type of guy also. I was struggling a little bit the other day changing my air filter on my gas class A. So I went right to your playlist to see if you had one on air filter replacement. And bingo, there it was. That is when I learned I just needed to push it backwards a little to get it released. Did that ,and no problem! Just wanted to say thanks! You have been a lifesaver many times. I am slowly but surely, Martinizing my motorhome!
martin , another stamp of approval is given here , from seeing this , i am having my camping world do this, thank you for the video ,say hi to joannie for me , i have learned so much for your videos
Michael, IMO I would NOT have CW do this type of job. This requires mechanics who are qualified in detailed type chassis work. I'd find a good mid truck to large truck company with good reviews to do this type of job.
Found you today looking for info on leveling! Great! Subscribed and saw this one, the day before I’m taking my Georgie Boy to have the front bearings inspected/repacked. Like others, been doing automotive repairs since I was 15 (only 49 years ago) but recognized there was no way I can safely do these! Thanks for your videos and we’ll be buying stuff through your store!
Thank you Mike so much for the kind words, subbing and supporting us thru our Amazon Store. It means a lot to Joanie & I. It's folks like you that make our channel possible. 👍
Martin really good info...I like listening to a fellow veteran talk about PMI (periodic and preventive) maintenance. I worked on F-4's as an avionics guy. If I had seen this video a month ago I would not have had the misfortune of a failed wheel bearing at 65 MPH. (almost needed to buy new undies...) Fortunately, we made it off of the highway and was towed to an excellent repair facility in Clearfield, PA. The previous owners of our motorhome obviously did not perform any basic maintenance and I have been catching up since I bought the RV. (2004 E450 based Class C). Obviously, I did not check the wheel bearings as I should have and it ended up costing me nearly $1500 in repair. For All of you that have not inspected and repacked (or have had someone do it) your front wheel bearings, let my tale of horror at 65 MPH be a warning.
Nope I did not. I paid full price, but I did get access to film the process. But I do hear what I think you're saying. Good shops are hard to find. Just do your due diligence and you'll find a reputable place.
Just bought our second motorhome..it’s a 2009 F53 with the V10 ..I’ll be going through the complete chassis and doing all the maintenance myself..still need to sell our first motorhome but I’m gonna have to fix the brakes and generator before someone will buy it because no one wants to buy a project..if you can’t do it yourself you better have lots of money!..No Motorhome no matter how new or nice is maintenance free.
Your videos are priceless Martin. I have 02 F53 with 19.5” wheels and need this done. I’m thinking brakes too. Have you done brake video or had it done? I do most of my own work and I’m retired but live in house and part time Rv. Any idea of cost to have brakes done? In your opinion is it diy job? I have some brake rub noise and bearings not packed in 6 years I’ve had it. Thanks so much for any help.
You say it’s an F53 chassis? I didn’t think the F53 chassis came with the 22.5 wheels until this year? Did you upgrade it or was that factory? I’m new but I see the Alcoa wheels.
Haven't done a video on that but you'll probably find your parts at one of these places: Rockauto.com www.millsupply.com NAPA NOTE: I believe you have a P30 chassis. When GM made the motorhome chassis it was initially designated a P32 and was never really officially recognized as a P30 except for ease of conversation and convenience. Most publications, people and marketing types simply dropped off the "2" and the chassis became more commonly known in speech and print as a P30. The differences in between the P series is blurred and to a GM engineer there wasn't any difference between a motorhome chassis whether it is spoken about as a 30 or a 32 it was simply recognized as a P series. When WCC got the product the marketing efforts and literature pointed to a P32 Wide-Track designation however in reality to the technician types it was simply a P Series. Later we see the chassis guides dropping or never having mentioned 30 or 32 and simply describing the product as a P series.
Wow! Seals are usually reuseable if you gently tap the inner bearing out with a piece of wood. I place a plastic bowl and paper towels under the seal and bearing to catch them. I could never imagine paying over $250.00 for a front repack. It costs me about $20.00 to do the job. Knowing how to set the nut is very important. I don't like using the word "torque" when installing front wheel bearimgs. The left side will try to loosen and the right side will try to tighten slightly. Keep that in mind when installing the cotter pin. If you notice the brake pads need replacing keep in mind the rear brakes generally wear about the same as the front brakes on an F53 motorhome.
Hello, I just found your channel! Thank you so much! I'm about to have rear rotors replaced (breaks and calipers too) on my 2000 f53 Adventurer. I'll also have the bearings checked . I hope to apprentice this job with my mechanic so that I can do the job by myself if it ever has to be done again, at the very least I want to know how it all goes together. Thank you again, I can't wait to see your other videos, happy travels!
Thank you Lois so much. 😍 A great place to go to watch other videos on how to take care of your RV yourself is to go to my PLAYLIST page here: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Great Job Martin, some jobs are better to pay the Money and Leave it up too Professionals with the tools ! That 450 of torque is a little Crazy High even with a multiplier ! I had a Truck shop tell me once they thought 475lb was too much for 2003 workhorse, they only wanted to torque to 185, ( 475lb for Workhorse W-22 2003 chassis in Manual ), I had to show them in the manual, He thought it would snap the Bolt ! Not the Best Truck Shop in the World , LOL ! Hey , Hope all Is OK in RGV with the Border Situation ! Take Care !
Thanks Jeff. Yep, that's why everyone has-TO KNOW-their RV. 185' lbs. for your coach would of been WAY under torqued and dangerous. We're not in RGV now and the border situation has no effect down in the area where our winter spot is. Thanks for taking the time to chime in. 👍
For us Non-Mechanics... Why Front Only? What is different about the rear? I am sure you also checked your brake Pads too, how did they look after how many miles?
The rear bearings are lubed by oil in the rear differential. My brake pads were like new. Hardly used. 40K miles. I run our coach in tow haul mode all the time because we're always towing, therefore I'm always using downshifting to assist in slowing down. It will force the engine to increase its RPM's with the soul purpose of using the engines compression to act as a brake. Use this method for slowing down or descending down steep grades and you'll hardly use your brakes. Great for when in town driving too. Using this method-tow haul mode-you'll hardly use your brakes and you'll get 100K out of your brake pads easy. So in conclusion, if you use the Tow/Haul it will save your brakes.
@@RVstreet Hi Martin, love your videos. You mentioned using tow haul here. I am pretty new at Class A RVing. My only concern is the down hill decents going through the hills. It would be awesome if you did a video about useing tow haul on incline and decline driving for us rookies. The decilne is a thought that I wont lie, makes my palms sweat a little.
@@mickthedawg4575 Thanks Mick. Yeah I have thought about doing a video on that subject because I know a lot of folks don't understand how it works and how to use it. Since Joanie would have to be shooting while we're underway, I'll discuss it with her and see if she's comfortable and able to do it. I also have to overcome an audio issue with my mic when driving. But when we leave Maine, we'll be going back to RGV for the winter through upstate NY around and down thru OH and down thru MO thru the Ozarks. That would be a good place to demonstrate how tow haul works and how to use it. Descending can be a little frightening at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of cake. For right now-for you-as you peek at the top of a mountain and just start your descent allow your speed to get to about 45 or 50mph (or so depending on the grade) and then tap the brakes. That will down shift the tranny and the engine RPMs will go to about 3200 or so. You can usually leave it right there the whole descent and MAYBE tap the brakes once in awhile to control your downward speed. You're letting the tranny/engine do all the work of slowing you down and not hardly using your brakes at all. Just stay in the right hand lane and let everybody pass you. 👍
@@RVstreet to my fellow rvers here , martin and Joanie are straight up and honest people, I can sit and listen to him all day and take notes on rv issues and care,I'm new into rvs ,and my fiance Betty and I have the same rv has Martin,so that does make it easy because I can relate, I give Martin and Joanie alot of credit and respect for what they do And it's not often that I do
I was hoping to see how to properly torque the spindle nut (so the problem of a spinning inner race won't happen). Is it like any other castle nut? tighten then back off 1/4 turn? I wish this video was more DIY, but I understand you can't carry a good set of tools. Also, how safe would it be to use the leveling jacks to get such a job done? I'm guessing jack stands are still a must... but how many tons for a jack stand?
Yeah I wouldn't rely on leveling jacks for this. Like you said use jack stands and the tonnage will depend on the weight of each RV. On our coach I would use 2 - 6 ton jack stands.
@@RVstreet Thanks, that's good advice. On my car, I would never go under it without jack stands, but brake jobs don't require you to go under. However, on the F53 chassis, those are big hubs and the brakes are deep inside. I have a 99 bounder, F53, so I am guessing I can use the same 2x 6 ton jack stands. This just adds to the list of tools you can't be carrying.
Martin....was somewhat disappointed not seeing the mechanic "torque" the spindle nut up....I assume that he backed off the nut after the initial torque,then final torque.....david
I had the tire shop get them for me the first time I I replaced my rear dually's. They have easy access to them and they'll know the exact size to get for your type and size of wheels. I think they were something like $12 a wheel. So $48 or so total. Maybe it was cheaper than that. I don't remember. I'm not sure where you could get them on your own.
@@RVstreet okay...I see that the Valvoline is a higher temp grease (500) and the Mystk is only rated for (325). My family says to use the Valvoline for the bearings, what do you think?
At today's labor rate that would be a $2000 or more with parts. Since I do all my own work where possible, I would have to figure out a way to do it myself. I've greased a lot of bearings in my life the old-fashioned way. But love that grease machine.
Hi Martin, thanks for the great video. I have two questions. 1. I have a shop and would like to try and tackle this job myself. If you don't have a packing tool like Taylor is there a video on how to repack the bearing that you would recommend? 2. What are the specs on repacking rear wheel bearings. Thanks again, LOVE your channel, Frank Nabuurs, Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Thanks for the quick reply! Hadn't done my research on back bearings! Only half the job I thought it would be! Many thanks. P.S. you folks ought to visit Prince Edward Island and the Maritimes (Coastal Eastern Canada) in the summer. Some beautiful RVing experiences up here!!
Question for you Martin. Our Ford F53 24K chassis spec sheet. Chassis ratings: Front GAWR 9000, Rear 15,500, GVWR 24,000 Axle weight rating: Front 9000 Rear 17,500 We are UNDER on the GVWR, UNDER on the front GAWR and OVER on the rear GAWR but UNDER on rear axle weight rating. What’s the difference between the GAWR & the rear axle weight rating?
There is no difference between GAWR & the rear axle weight rating. They are the same things. GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Ratio. But from the numbers you posted above I'm not sure where you got the Axle weight rating of: Front 9000 & Rear 17,500, but your axle itself may be in fact rated for 17,500 but when mounted on your coach, the over all capacity is reduced with all the other weights and capacities considered by the coach manufacturer. *Your top Chassis rating numbers tell the real story:* Front GAWR 9000, Rear 15,500, GVWR 24,000. Your rear axle weight capacity *IS* 15,500. That total weight is divided between both rear set of dually's. *As another added piece of information*......So that means 15,500 divided by 2 is 7,750 each side of the axle and that 7,550 is again divided by 2-which is 3,875-because you have two tires handling that load. So the proper PSI you should be running in those rear tires is whatever your tire manufacturer calls for each tire at 3,750 cold pressure. Then add and additional 5% to 10% to account for varying temperature swings and possible weight creep. I explain this more in detail here: ua-cam.com/video/Q_NuEoBIxe8/v-deo.html
@@RVstreet We got the specs for our Ford manual that came with our coach. Confusing because the chassis number is 15,500 and the axle number is 17,500. Thanks for the info 👍👍👍
How do you choose a mechanic to work on your rig when you can not do the work? I hired a company to do a bearing/brake job in October. The Sunday before Thanksgiving we lost the passenger side bearings and the tire passed me on the on-coming traffic lane. We are now in the process of getting a second axel as the company assigned by our travel provider put a bad axel on, but told us to have an alignment and some welding done. Yet another company now has the unit having to find another axel and other repairs.
So you lost a tire one month after you had a bearing and brake job done? Just asking, the only way you could of lost a tire is if the lug nuts came loose and then everything unraveled from there. We're they torqued correctly? After you had the job done, did you come back after about 50-100 miles of driving and have them retorque the lugs one more time? Have contacted them about this? Something wasn't done right and they should be liable? What a PIA. WOW. I'd like to know more info about this, how it happened, what type of rig it is and the name of the company. It can be tough to find one sometimes for sure. The reason I chose Jamail's is because I had already done a test case with him on alignment the year prior. Because he passed with flying colors doing that I knew he was the shop for doing my bearings. The other thing I do is, I'm always reading online. ALWAYS. I read case studies, post of RVer's in RV forums, youtube videos, blogs etc. Over the years I have built a list of all sorts of different kinds of service shops that specialize in different tasks. Windshields, chassis work, replacing windows, fridge replacement, and so on. I have them sorted by states. It's not a real organized list like in a spread sheet but it's a list none the less and I understand it. Shops or mechanics that make this list are ones who have a proven record of expertise, good pricing and fair play. When you are full timing like we do-always being on the road-I feel you need a list like this JIC. Here's another overall, general purpose tool that may be of help to you. www.rvservicereviews.com In summary, if you've watched any of my videos in the past you know I cut all recommended maintenance schedules in half. I'm a real proactive guy. I perform PM items whether they need it or not OFTEN. I don't like surprises or down time if I can avoid it. Hope this helps 👍
@@RVstreet When I got the tire out of the tall grass and put out all coals from fires. The lug nuts were in place and properly torqued, when I got back to the trailer and checked the castle nut was partially melted, one u bolt was cut and the other was about 1/2 cut, the axel. Additionally, the brake drum was broken in places as well. The remaining brake parts were ground flat. Everyone I have shown pictures has stated the bearing was not properly replaced, one said it was too tight. I have started relearning to pack bearings and will be doing my own breaks and bearings from now on. Currently, I am getting all the information possible, names included to the Insurance company to get the trailer back on the road. The mechanic who installed the replacement axel while we were away from home told us to have the axel supports welded after a wheel alignment. The local major RV Dealership has told me they have to replace the axel because it is not a proper axel and the tires are riding on the inner edge of the tire. This has been a real frustrating process with more to come. Trying to find good Mechanics to work on my rig for things I can not do, but not willing to allow anyone to touch something I can easily do anymore.
@@johnbutler2231 Oh, ok, so this was a RV trailer not a motorhome. Since you commented on my motorhome wheel bearings video I thought you had one. That makes more sense. I don't understand the "one u bolt was cut and the other was about 1/2 cut" part though. There's a lot info out there on repacking trailer bearings and yes that can be much easier than on a rig like mine. Another thing a lot of trailer owners do is upgrade their leaf springs and other suspension parts. Factory suspension and gear on most frames usually just meets minimum requirements for rated loads. They're like 7K lb. axles. When your dragging these heavy things all over the country it's a really good idea to upgrade to the 8K moryde axles and suspension. Watch this video for more info: ua-cam.com/video/EWMVOm_JCaU/v-deo.html
@@RVstreet Sorry, yes we are in a travel trailer, but we still, need a reputable RV mechanic at times. How do we choose one once we are on the road in a few years now?
Good video but you missed something. The rear axle bearings........and differential. Pretty much NOBODY thinks of maintaining the rear end. But when she blows, it'll cost you thousands. It's an easy thing to do, easier than the front bearings unless you want to actually want inspect the axle bearings. Basically just changing the oil.
A shop you trust??? is there such a thing? The shop is there to take you as hard as possible. I know this because I have worked for several of them. I should have filmed me replacing my rear end bearings in a campground in Enterprise OR. Stangle's diesel charged me like 200$ a bearing because they knew I had no choice and then they wanted 300$ a side just in labor I suppose if you are filming the whole thing for you tube they won't try any funny stuff like 100% parts markups and so on. In the 7 years we have been F/T we have gone to 6 shops and ALL of them screwed us in one way or another.
Ya there is such a thing but hard to find for sure. This is the 2nd time I've been there. The first time was 2 yrs. ago to have my front end alignment checked. After having my coach an hour they brought it back out to me and said my alignment was spot on. No charge.
@@RVstreet We have a local shop that does the buses, fire trucks, etc. for the county. They are very good, and quite reasonable, with excellent reviews. So there are some of those shops around that don't gouge. And they work on Motorhomes too. They have gotten very good reviews from tourists who had to have emergency service, and all the comments were that they didn't try to overcharge. Less than 5 miles from the house which is a plus too. We just got a 2018 Winnebago Vista that is in decent shape, got it at a good price due to some roof radius damage that was repaired. Before we do a long trip I'm going to take it in and have the brakes and alignment checked.
"full timing " it should never mean not have a "home base" of operations or a home. even circus folk keep a place to land, regroup and take care of things like this. why on earth would you sell your home to travel? more likely you could not afford to live in a home "full time".
I don't know about anyone else but I sure do miss Martin as I find some older videos and watching them. I can't help but think he is in heaven keeping all the rvers up and running. Makes me happy to think about it. 😊
this comment made me smile. Thank you
That's great to know about an honest, conscientious business. I'm glad I watched this video.
Great information here Martin, thank you. We all need to know our personal limitations as well as the tool limitations we have to deal with. The hardest part for me is finding people who are knowledgeable and professional, Jamail's shop fits the bill here for sure!
Hello again, I just wanted to give you an update on my RV. Although I didn't do any of the work (rear rotors and new brakes and calipers all around). My incredible mechanic let me hover over the job and he told me what he was doing and how as I took notes and helped a little bit by handing him tools and parts.
I did reinstall the stainless steel air valve extenders myself. I checked and rechecked and rechecked....for leaks, and then checked again after the tires were put back on. Over the course of several hours I checked the air pressure all was well and I am back on the road!
Thank you again for your videos! Safe and happy travels!
Great report Lois and-way to go-to get in there and see how stuff works, maintained and took notes. Put all this info in your maintenance log book for future reference.
Excellent information 👍
Oh, man. Good call having this done. My husband was an awesome mechanic and so important to follow your instincts.
Martin...once again the video was great....I live 20 minutes from Jamail's and already made an appointment! I spent 43 years in the oil patch and know preventive maintenance
will always save future time money and of course safety.....
Be sure to mention me when you visit. I get no referral fee or anything like that but that way they'll know it paid off letting me video what they did to our coach. They're a great bunch of folks there.
Was looking for information on those of us with the oil bath setup on our front bearings, and came across this video. I do my own maintenance on my vehicles, but like you, would outsource this job. Just did brakes on my pickup truck, and the wife's car, and when under our Phaeton doing a grease job, thought I should ask on the oil bath setup, but will try to ask that in another forum, for those that have the same setup. Great video, as there are always little tips one can pick up on them!
I’m thinking I have a bit of time before George needs this service. I’m so happy you outsourced this job…I’m sure you wanted to do it yourself but this was a wise decision! Hope to see you guys soon!!
Ya we'll be heading your way in late Sept. early Oct. and Joanie said you might or might not be there so we can visit and mooch dock. We'll see. 😍
Tell Sir Loyd Benson I miss him.
Ya we'll be heading your way in late Sept. early Oct. and Joanie said you might or might not be there so we can visit and mooch dock. We'll see. 😍
Tell Sir Loyd Benson I miss him.
@@RVstreet Sir Lloyd Benson will be there…I will be in Vegas for the WSOP but you guys can definitely mooch dock and visit him!
Some of you may be surprised that I outsourced this work and didn’t do it myself. I could of done this myself, but it would of been a 2-3 day job getting all the tools and materials I needed, actually doing the job, rental fees, returning all the equipment and probably some scraped knuckles. 😜
I got this job done in a little over 4hrs. and all I had to do was hand over a credit card. With me getting older now, having a weak back, my schedule being full of other things I need to be doing and being full time, this was the best option for me at this time. I am not affiliated with Jamail's what-so-ever.
For you younger bucks, or those who have all the tools on hand this is not that big of a job to do. The grease we used for my bearings and the brake caliper slide bolts are in my Amazon Store in the “Tires, Engine and Chassis Care” category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
I am the same way. I enjoy doing all my work .. but recently had to change my radiator.. which is around a 6 to 8 hr job. I contemplated whether i should do it or outsource it .. after doing inventory of tools i needed plus 100 plus degree weather in south texas . I decided to find a local shop to do the work.. i had all the stuff needed... 10 gallons of fluid and the radiator. Was in and out 5 hrs with 3 guys working on it ..
@@ecuellar993 There ya go. Yep, sometimes it's just better to out source, especially for those big intensive jobs.
Thanks Martin, thanks Joni! I always learn something from you.
Love the channel bro. You are good. Always worth watching. Thanks for all the fantastic information.
You one Honest Man 👍🏽
I just finished 3 episodes of Martinizing and I have to ask which you enjoy more, the actual work or helping us understand the work? It's clear you love both.
Well to be honest I like doing the work more. Once I see the need to do something I just get after it and usually have it done in no time. To create a video about it, it takes a whole lot more work, planning, getting stuff together, plus retakes to make sure I cover what needs to be shown, editing, fixing any audio issues and the list goes on. But....if it helps folks it's all worth it and especially if they take the time to comment and say so...like you did. Thanks Mark. 🔧👏
I wish I could have met you and Martin. Martin thought so much like I do. I hope you keep your channel up for the long term.
God Bless .
Martin has 3 more videos scheduled to be released and I plan to leave RVStreet videos up forever
You've made up my mind I was thinking of doing it myself but I'm 66 already and not as strong as I was my coach has 23000K miles but it's a 96 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE so the grease is old already I'm sure it needs it mine also has the same chassis thanks my friend your awesome.
I think that is a good decision. Most things you can do on your own but the things you can't just leave to the professionals. Safe travels my friend.👍
Thanks so much for another awesome video! I have learned so much from watching your videos. I am a do it yourself type of guy also. I was struggling a little bit the other day changing my air filter on my gas class A. So I went right to your playlist to see if you had one on air filter replacement. And bingo, there it was. That is when I learned I just needed to push it backwards a little to get it released. Did that ,and no problem! Just wanted to say thanks! You have been a lifesaver many times. I am slowly but surely, Martinizing my motorhome!
Lots of little tricks taking care of these things. Glad it helped ya Sidney and thanks for taking the time to comment. 🔧 👍
Glad you’re back in Texas! You aren’t too far from home. We look forward to seeing you in the fall!
Thank You Doyle. We miss you guys. See ya around the end of Oct. or so. 😜
Excellent video. Great job as always. 👍
martin , another stamp of approval is given here , from seeing this , i am having my camping world do this, thank you for the video ,say hi to joannie for me , i have learned so much for your videos
Michael,
IMO I would NOT have CW do this type of job. This requires mechanics who are qualified in detailed type chassis work. I'd find a good mid truck to large truck company with good reviews to do this type of job.
@@RVstreet I thought that as well, bringing it to a ford dealership that does service class A rvs sir,thank you for the heads up
Found you today looking for info on leveling! Great! Subscribed and saw this one, the day before I’m taking my Georgie Boy to have the front bearings inspected/repacked. Like others, been doing automotive repairs since I was 15 (only 49 years ago) but recognized there was no way I can safely do these! Thanks for your videos and we’ll be buying stuff through your store!
Thank you Mike so much for the kind words, subbing and supporting us thru our Amazon Store. It means a lot to Joanie & I. It's folks like you that make our channel possible. 👍
You are very lucky to have found a mechanic who will work on RV'S. Most wont.
wishing I had some alco aluminum wheels about now
Go Browns!
Great video as usual
Martin really good info...I like listening to a fellow veteran talk about PMI (periodic and preventive) maintenance. I worked on F-4's as an avionics guy. If I had seen this video a month ago I would not have had the misfortune of a failed wheel bearing at 65 MPH. (almost needed to buy new undies...) Fortunately, we made it off of the highway and was towed to an excellent repair facility in Clearfield, PA. The previous owners of our motorhome obviously did not perform any basic maintenance and I have been catching up since I bought the RV. (2004 E450 based Class C). Obviously, I did not check the wheel bearings as I should have and it ended up costing me nearly $1500 in repair. For All of you that have not inspected and repacked (or have had someone do it) your front wheel bearings, let my tale of horror at 65 MPH be a warning.
OMG....Mike that must of been scary. Glad everything came out ok 🔧
Don't repack.
Buy new Timken bearings,not Chinese junk bearings.
I get the feeling you got a better deal than most of us would find anywhere else.
Nope I did not. I paid full price, but I did get access to film the process. But I do hear what I think you're saying. Good shops are hard to find. Just do your due diligence and you'll find a reputable place.
Just bought our second motorhome..it’s a 2009 F53 with the V10 ..I’ll be going through the complete chassis and doing all the maintenance myself..still need to sell our first motorhome but I’m gonna have to fix the brakes and generator before someone will buy it because no one wants to buy a project..if you can’t do it yourself you better have lots of money!..No Motorhome no matter how new or nice is maintenance free.
Guessing I won,t be doing this job either. I had thought about it but nope. Thank you
Your videos are priceless Martin. I have 02 F53 with 19.5” wheels and need this done. I’m thinking brakes too. Have you done brake video or had it done? I do most of my own work and I’m retired but live in house and part time Rv. Any idea of cost to have brakes done? In your opinion is it diy job? I have some brake rub noise and bearings not packed in 6 years I’ve had it. Thanks so much for any help.
You say it’s an F53 chassis? I didn’t think the F53 chassis came with the 22.5 wheels until this year? Did you upgrade it or was that factory? I’m new but I see the Alcoa wheels.
The F53 chassis comes in different weight classes. My chassis is a 22K chassis with a 228" wheel base. Therefore it comes with 22.5" from the factory.
I have a 1998 Chevy 454, 7,4 liter chassis on my Gulfstream, have you done a video on replacement of rear wheel bearing and the way to find the part
Haven't done a video on that but you'll probably find your parts at one of these places:
Rockauto.com
www.millsupply.com
NAPA
NOTE: I believe you have a P30 chassis.
When GM made the motorhome chassis it was initially designated a P32 and was never really officially recognized as a P30 except for ease of conversation and convenience.
Most publications, people and marketing types simply dropped off the "2" and the chassis became more commonly known in speech and print as a P30.
The differences in between the P series is blurred and to a GM engineer there wasn't any difference between a motorhome chassis whether it is spoken about as a 30 or a 32 it was simply recognized as a P series.
When WCC got the product the marketing efforts and literature pointed to a P32 Wide-Track designation however in reality to the technician types it was simply a P Series. Later we see the chassis guides dropping or never having mentioned 30 or 32 and simply describing the product as a P series.
Wow! Seals are usually reuseable if you gently tap the inner bearing out with a piece of wood. I place a plastic bowl and paper towels under the seal and bearing to catch them. I could never imagine paying over $250.00 for a front repack. It costs me about $20.00 to do the job. Knowing how to set the nut is very important. I don't like using the word "torque" when installing front wheel bearimgs. The left side will try to loosen and the right side will try to tighten slightly. Keep that in mind when installing the cotter pin. If you notice the brake pads need replacing keep in mind the rear brakes generally wear about the same as the front brakes on an F53 motorhome.
Hello, I just found your channel! Thank you so much! I'm about to have rear rotors replaced (breaks and calipers too) on my 2000 f53 Adventurer. I'll also have the bearings checked . I hope to apprentice this job with my mechanic so that I can do the job by myself if it ever has to be done again, at the very least I want to know how it all goes together. Thank you again, I can't wait to see your other videos, happy travels!
Thank you Lois so much. 😍
A great place to go to watch other videos on how to take care of your RV yourself is to go to my PLAYLIST page here: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Great job! I wish I had a good mechanic close to me.
Good video. I was going to repack my bearings but found out they are oil bath type. So I just changed my oil. 😁
Great Job Martin, some jobs are better to pay the Money and Leave it up too Professionals with the tools ! That 450 of torque is a little Crazy High even with a multiplier ! I had a Truck shop tell me once they thought 475lb was too much for 2003 workhorse, they only wanted to torque to 185, ( 475lb for Workhorse W-22 2003 chassis in Manual ), I had to show them in the manual, He thought it would snap the Bolt ! Not the Best Truck Shop in the World , LOL ! Hey , Hope all Is OK in RGV with the Border Situation ! Take Care !
Thanks Jeff. Yep, that's why everyone has-TO KNOW-their RV. 185' lbs. for your coach would of been WAY under torqued and dangerous.
We're not in RGV now and the border situation has no effect down in the area where our winter spot is. Thanks for taking the time to chime in. 👍
For us Non-Mechanics... Why Front Only? What is different about the rear?
I am sure you also checked your brake Pads too, how did they look after how many miles?
The rear bearings are lubed by oil in the rear differential.
My brake pads were like new. Hardly used. 40K miles. I run our coach in tow haul mode all the time because we're always towing, therefore I'm always using downshifting to assist in slowing down. It will force the engine to increase its RPM's with the soul purpose of using the engines compression to act as a brake.
Use this method for slowing down or descending down steep grades and you'll hardly use your brakes. Great for when in town driving too. Using this method-tow haul mode-you'll hardly use your brakes and you'll get 100K out of your brake pads easy. So in conclusion, if you use the Tow/Haul it will save your brakes.
@@RVstreet Cool Thanks additional info. Tow/Haul mode kinda sounds like gas engine version of a diesel engine Jake Brake - very handy indeed.
@@RVstreet Hi Martin, love your videos. You mentioned using tow haul here. I am pretty new at Class A RVing. My only concern is the down hill decents going through the hills. It would be awesome if you did a video about useing tow haul on incline and decline driving for us rookies. The decilne is a thought that I wont lie, makes my palms sweat a little.
@@mickthedawg4575 Thanks Mick. Yeah I have thought about doing a video on that subject because I know a lot of folks don't understand how it works and how to use it. Since Joanie would have to be shooting while we're underway, I'll discuss it with her and see if she's comfortable and able to do it. I also have to overcome an audio issue with my mic when driving. But when we leave Maine, we'll be going back to RGV for the winter through upstate NY around and down thru OH and down thru MO thru the Ozarks. That would be a good place to demonstrate how tow haul works and how to use it. Descending can be a little frightening at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of cake.
For right now-for you-as you peek at the top of a mountain and just start your descent allow your speed to get to about 45 or 50mph (or so depending on the grade) and then tap the brakes. That will down shift the tranny and the engine RPMs will go to about 3200 or so. You can usually leave it right there the whole descent and MAYBE tap the brakes once in awhile to control your downward speed. You're letting the tranny/engine do all the work of slowing you down and not hardly using your brakes at all. Just stay in the right hand lane and let everybody pass you. 👍
martin, i have just scheduled this for mine , even thou we have about 8k miles , i want to have it performed , and as always , a dozen thumbs up sir
1,000 👍 to you too. Thanks so much. Glad to have you aboard.
@@RVstreet to my fellow rvers here , martin and Joanie are straight up and honest people, I can sit and listen to him all day and take notes on rv issues and care,I'm new into rvs ,and my fiance Betty and I have the same rv has Martin,so that does make it easy because I can relate, I give Martin and Joanie alot of credit and respect for what they do
And it's not often that I do
Thanks! I should be MARTINIZING my life... Oh wait,, I'm over 75; it may be too late :)! Aloha
I was hoping to see how to properly torque the spindle nut (so the problem of a spinning inner race won't happen). Is it like any other castle nut? tighten then back off 1/4 turn? I wish this video was more DIY, but I understand you can't carry a good set of tools. Also, how safe would it be to use the leveling jacks to get such a job done? I'm guessing jack stands are still a must... but how many tons for a jack stand?
Yeah I wouldn't rely on leveling jacks for this. Like you said use jack stands and the tonnage will depend on the weight of each RV. On our coach I would use 2 - 6 ton jack stands.
@@RVstreet Thanks, that's good advice. On my car, I would never go under it without jack stands, but brake jobs don't require you to go under. However, on the F53 chassis, those are big hubs and the brakes are deep inside. I have a 99 bounder, F53, so I am guessing I can use the same 2x 6 ton jack stands. This just adds to the list of tools you can't be carrying.
How do we get chassis maintenance information ? We have a 2005 Tiffin Allegra with GM 8100 vortex work horse engine?
Download your manual online. I'd start with Tiffins website or email them.
Martin....was somewhat disappointed not seeing the mechanic "torque" the spindle nut up....I assume that he backed off the nut after the initial torque,then final torque.....david
This is why mechanical workshops exist. They have all the gear and expertise. You drive in and later drive out.
Martin where do I find self centering lugs for my 2016 ford53 chassis?
I had the tire shop get them for me the first time I I replaced my rear dually's. They have easy access to them and they'll know the exact size to get for your type and size of wheels. I think they were something like $12 a wheel. So $48 or so total. Maybe it was cheaper than that. I don't remember. I'm not sure where you could get them on your own.
We love your videos Martin....your a life saver! Which grease do we use for the front wheel bearings in your Amazon store noticed there were two.
Mystik in the red tube. If you click the text bubble above each product I describe what I use product thing for. 👍
@@RVstreet okay...I see that the Valvoline is a higher temp grease (500) and the Mystk is only rated for (325). My family says to use the Valvoline for the bearings, what do you think?
Never mind, Mystk is the one to use for the bearings. We read the spec's online.
@@jeepermomg4195 👍
At today's labor rate that would be a $2000 or more with parts. Since I do all my own work where possible, I would have to figure out a way to do it myself. I've greased a lot of bearings in my life the old-fashioned way. But love that grease machine.
Right on
@SKINLA682 4.5 hours? Maybe one handed, LOL!
Hi Martin, thanks for the great video. I have two questions.
1. I have a shop and would like to try and tackle this job myself. If you don't have a packing tool like Taylor is there a video on how to repack the bearing that you would recommend?
2. What are the specs on repacking rear wheel bearings.
Thanks again, LOVE your channel, Frank Nabuurs, Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Thanks Frank,
Pack them by hand.
The rear bearings are lubed by the oil in the diff so no repacking them.
Thanks for the quick reply! Hadn't done my research on back bearings! Only half the job I thought it would be! Many thanks.
P.S. you folks ought to visit Prince Edward Island and the Maritimes (Coastal Eastern Canada) in the summer. Some beautiful RVing experiences up here!!
Question for you Martin.
Our Ford F53 24K chassis spec sheet.
Chassis ratings:
Front GAWR 9000, Rear 15,500, GVWR 24,000
Axle weight rating:
Front 9000
Rear 17,500
We are UNDER on the GVWR, UNDER on the front GAWR and OVER on the rear GAWR but UNDER on rear axle weight rating. What’s the difference between the GAWR & the rear axle weight rating?
There is no difference between GAWR & the rear axle weight rating. They are the same things. GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Ratio.
But from the numbers you posted above I'm not sure where you got the Axle weight rating of: Front 9000 & Rear 17,500, but your axle itself may be in fact rated for 17,500 but when mounted on your coach, the over all capacity is reduced with all the other weights and capacities considered by the coach manufacturer.
*Your top Chassis rating numbers tell the real story:*
Front GAWR 9000, Rear 15,500, GVWR 24,000. Your rear axle weight capacity *IS* 15,500. That total weight is divided between both rear set of dually's.
*As another added piece of information*......So that means 15,500 divided by 2 is 7,750 each side of the axle and that 7,550 is again divided by 2-which is 3,875-because you have two tires handling that load. So the proper PSI you should be running in those rear tires is whatever your tire manufacturer calls for each tire at 3,750 cold pressure. Then add and additional 5% to 10% to account for varying temperature swings and possible weight creep.
I explain this more in detail here: ua-cam.com/video/Q_NuEoBIxe8/v-deo.html
@@RVstreet We got the specs for our Ford manual that came with our coach. Confusing because the chassis number is 15,500 and the axle number is 17,500. Thanks for the info 👍👍👍
@@RVstreet We did follow your video and split the difference between the 5%/10% and followed Michelin guidelines 👍👍👍
@@richardberger326 Ok well you should be good to go then. Thanks for your question so much. 👍
How do you choose a mechanic to work on your rig when you can not do the work? I hired a company to do a bearing/brake job in October. The Sunday before Thanksgiving we lost the passenger side bearings and the tire passed me on the on-coming traffic lane. We are now in the process of getting a second axel as the company assigned by our travel provider put a bad axel on, but told us to have an alignment and some welding done. Yet another company now has the unit having to find another axel and other repairs.
So you lost a tire one month after you had a bearing and brake job done? Just asking, the only way you could of lost a tire is if the lug nuts came loose and then everything unraveled from there. We're they torqued correctly? After you had the job done, did you come back after about 50-100 miles of driving and have them retorque the lugs one more time? Have contacted them about this? Something wasn't done right and they should be liable? What a PIA. WOW. I'd like to know more info about this, how it happened, what type of rig it is and the name of the company.
It can be tough to find one sometimes for sure. The reason I chose Jamail's is because I had already done a test case with him on alignment the year prior. Because he passed with flying colors doing that I knew he was the shop for doing my bearings.
The other thing I do is, I'm always reading online. ALWAYS. I read case studies, post of RVer's in RV forums, youtube videos, blogs etc. Over the years I have built a list of all sorts of different kinds of service shops that specialize in different tasks. Windshields, chassis work, replacing windows, fridge replacement, and so on. I have them sorted by states. It's not a real organized list like in a spread sheet but it's a list none the less and I understand it. Shops or mechanics that make this list are ones who have a proven record of expertise, good pricing and fair play. When you are full timing like we do-always being on the road-I feel you need a list like this JIC.
Here's another overall, general purpose tool that may be of help to you.
www.rvservicereviews.com
In summary, if you've watched any of my videos in the past you know I cut all recommended maintenance schedules in half. I'm a real proactive guy. I perform PM items whether they need it or not OFTEN. I don't like surprises or down time if I can avoid it.
Hope this helps 👍
@@RVstreet When I got the tire out of the tall grass and put out all coals from fires. The lug nuts were in place and properly torqued, when I got back to the trailer and checked the castle nut was partially melted, one u bolt was cut and the other was about 1/2 cut, the axel. Additionally, the brake drum was broken in places as well. The remaining brake parts were ground flat. Everyone I have shown pictures has stated the bearing was not properly replaced, one said it was too tight. I have started relearning to pack bearings and will be doing my own breaks and bearings from now on. Currently, I am getting all the information possible, names included to the Insurance company to get the trailer back on the road.
The mechanic who installed the replacement axel while we were away from home told us to have the axel supports welded after a wheel alignment. The local major RV Dealership has told me they have to replace the axel because it is not a proper axel and the tires are riding on the inner edge of the tire. This has been a real frustrating process with more to come. Trying to find good Mechanics to work on my rig for things I can not do, but not willing to allow anyone to touch something I can easily do anymore.
@@johnbutler2231 Oh, ok, so this was a RV trailer not a motorhome. Since you commented on my motorhome wheel bearings video I thought you had one. That makes more sense. I don't understand the "one u bolt was cut and the other was about 1/2 cut" part though. There's a lot info out there on repacking trailer bearings and yes that can be much easier than on a rig like mine. Another thing a lot of trailer owners do is upgrade their leaf springs and other suspension parts. Factory suspension and gear on most frames usually just meets minimum requirements for rated loads. They're like 7K lb. axles. When your dragging these heavy things all over the country it's a really good idea to upgrade to the 8K moryde axles and suspension. Watch this video for more info: ua-cam.com/video/EWMVOm_JCaU/v-deo.html
@@RVstreet Sorry, yes we are in a travel trailer, but we still, need a reputable RV mechanic at times. How do we choose one once we are on the road in a few years now?
@@johnbutler2231 Start accumulating a list of folks now like I do. There's no easy answer. Read, study, learn. It's just part of the RV life style. 👍
Good video but you missed something. The rear axle bearings........and differential. Pretty much NOBODY thinks of maintaining the rear end. But when she blows, it'll cost you thousands. It's an easy thing to do, easier than the front bearings unless you want to actually want inspect the axle bearings. Basically just changing the oil.
Thanks Trust Me,
But this video was about front wheel bearings. I've covered the diff and rear end in other videos.
Do you tow a vehicle and if so how?
Yes, Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/NUAvMV6SUGs/v-deo.html
Here's all my videos: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Seized bearings cause a lot of rv fires.
4:27 why do people feel as if " retiring" means not maintaining business' or just keeping them for passive income? just insane the laziness.
👍😎🍻🇨🇦
Why put the old races + bearings back in??? Been running in junk grease.
Don't be cheap,replace old bearings+ races.
just pay to have it done if you have to "rent" all that stuff.
That is exactly what we did, that is why the video is title is named I'm not doing it.
A shop you trust??? is there such a thing? The shop is there to take you as hard as possible. I know this because I have worked for several of them. I should have filmed me replacing my rear end bearings in a campground in Enterprise OR. Stangle's diesel charged me like 200$ a bearing because they knew I had no choice and then they wanted 300$ a side just in labor I suppose if you are filming the whole thing for you tube they won't try any funny stuff like 100% parts markups and so on. In the 7 years we have been F/T we have gone to 6 shops and ALL of them screwed us in one way or another.
Ya there is such a thing but hard to find for sure. This is the 2nd time I've been there. The first time was 2 yrs. ago to have my front end alignment checked. After having my coach an hour they brought it back out to me and said my alignment was spot on. No charge.
@@RVstreet We have a local shop that does the buses, fire trucks, etc. for the county. They are very good, and quite reasonable, with excellent reviews. So there are some of those shops around that don't gouge. And they work on Motorhomes too. They have gotten very good reviews from tourists who had to have emergency service, and all the comments were that they didn't try to overcharge. Less than 5 miles from the house which is a plus too. We just got a 2018 Winnebago Vista that is in decent shape, got it at a good price due to some roof radius damage that was repaired. Before we do a long trip I'm going to take it in and have the brakes and alignment checked.
@@RVstreet Well ok then, I stand astonished and corrected lol
"full timing " it should never mean not have a "home base" of operations or a home. even circus folk keep a place to land, regroup and take care of things like this. why on earth would you sell your home to travel? more likely you could not afford to live in a home "full time".
It was all about repacking the front bearings. He left our the torque spec for the axle nut. That's why I watched it. Wasted my time.