Хатуль Мадан ты уж ржать можешь больше. Мы то всегда думали что эта кукорямба просто сапожный нож сделанный из подручных говна и палок а это оказывается высокое японское искусство ножедельства,крайне неудобное в бытовых реалиях.
You really don't need a template, just draw it by yourself with the dimension and th esize you like. If you have doubts, in 5 minutes you can make a wooden prototype and see how it fits in your hand.
James McGuire google "metal distributor near me" on google and you'll get places. 0 - 1 tool is also a good high carbon steel. Which I prefer because you can get a Sharper Edge than stainless steel and it's a lot easier to harden and temper
I see you tried making one of your blades appear forged, although this was not forging. Your fire was nowhere near hot enough to forge steel. When you heat treated the steel your color was way too low for a proper heat treatment. I could not see the quenching fluid you used so I have nothing to offer there. However, given the relatively low heat color of your steel at the time you quenched for heat treating, it's likely that the metal was still relatively soft before you tempered it in your oven. That looked almost like a tempering oven. However, when you tempered at 200º C, that heat range was also a bit too low. I usually heat treat my blades to a bright cherry red. When it's glowing evenly throughout the blades are quickly quenched in oil. Then I temper my blades in our kitchen oven at around 425ºF for about 10 minutes, or until the blades turn a pale straw color, then will shut the oven off and allow it to cool slowly. I usually wait until the end of the day before tempering my blades to allow the oven to remain shut as the knife blades cool. This evens the tempering throughout but also ensures that the center of the blade remains relatively flexible and softer than the surrounding steel. The slow cooling process normalizes the steel slightly, making a more flexible blade that still holds its edge in use. That said, had you brought the temp of the blades to a proper cherry red color, the tempering procedure you used would have left the blades too hard and brittle. As it is, your tempering color heat was too low and likely left the blades soft. Your tempering process would have softened the steel even more, making it difficult for the blade to hold an edge. I examined the photos of the spoon you were carving, and the cut-marks from your blades confirmed my suspicion that your blades are too soft and not holding an edge properly. It's my suspicion that while you were carving, the edge of your blades rolled and puckered as you sliced through the wood. There is an art to heat treating and tempering steel correctly. I still get it wrong from time to time, but not as often. Please don't be offended with my observations. I've been forging and making knives for almost 39, going on 40 years. I have a little bit of an understanding of the knifemaking processes. Regarding forging the blades... you need to keep the steel in the fire and allow it to soak long enough to turn a bright even yellow. When you start forging the steel should hold its color and cool gradually, and you should get roughly 40-50 seconds of forge time before you need to soak it in the forge fire again. Your ball pein hammer needs some attention and needs to be dressed. Sanding it on your sander to smooth away the dimples and hammering marks will allow for a much cleaner forge. That little belt sander you are using his hardly adequate for what you are trying to do. It might be worth your while to invest in a better one if you want to keep making knives. And, there are drilling hammers available in hardware stores for not a lot of money. A decent 2.5 pound or 3 pound drilling hammer or sledge hammer will do wonders. I have several. I ground one face flat and rounded the other face. I keep all my hammers shined and polished smooth because it offers better forging marks on the steel and requires less grinding to clean away hammering marks from forging. I also own several different size ball pein hammers and a cross pein hammer for my work, and I have about 7 pairs of tongs for my work. Like you, I have a Railroad Track Anvil, one that I made almost 20 years ago. That little chunk of RR track you have is perfect for making small knives. Find a way to make the front opening of your forge a little smaller. It's too big and allows for too much heat to escape. I know many people who use homemade forges like your little propane torch forge. They enclose the opening of their forge with fire bricks to hold in most of the heat. You did a nice job grinding the bevel on the Japanese Style Marking knives you made. It was a bold move grinding it on that electric sander. If that's all you have to use, then may I suggest switching out your sanding belts and use a fresh new one for your knifemaking. It will speed up the process and make it easier to shape the blades. Also, and this is more of a must than a suggestion... keep a bucket of cold water nearby so that you can quench the steel as you grind. Not quenching create hotspots in the steel and can burn and ruin a blade. This is because if the blade gets too hot while grinding, it burns out the carbon and you'll be left with a piece of steel that will never hold an edge no matter how you try heat treating and tempering. I'm glad to see that you have a decent pair of tongs. It might be worth it to invest in several other pairs, including a blade holding pair. There are numerous places available online where you could buy nice tongs for not a lot of money. Some are as little as $40-$45. Keep at it and don't give up.
Thank you for your comments, you're certainly more experienced than me. However, I have to correct you in a couple of points. I did not try to make it look like it was forged, I just added a hammered texture, both as an aesthetic decoration, and to improve the grip of the knife. And I succeeded, exactly as I wanted. Regarding the temperature of the heat treatment, there's no way you can judge the color of the steel from a video. It appears dark because the video is underexposed. You can get it from the fact that even the color of the forge is dark, and this is not possible. I use these knives for over a year now and are always sharp, so I can guarantee you that they are properly hardened. The tools I use are certainly not professional, but I do not make knives for a trade. I make a variety of different things, not just knives. Maybe I do a little 'more effort than necessary but I usually get the result. Keep watching :)
Not sure why he even bothered to heat it and hit it with a hammer other than to add a bit of texturing, but he could have done that cold....???? Didn't forge a thing, complete cut out stock removal, no skill really type piece...looks nice and will be functional if heat treated well, but wow, why bother even having a forge?
Speak man! Explain what you are doing. I've seen you throw slow motion and other such simple effects into your videos. Doing a little voice over to explain what/why you're doing is faster and easier than some of the other techniques you're using. So please give some instruction. OR SUBTITLES even. And/or at least post a link to your Instructable (which is how I found you). I wouldn't be so emphatic if your videos didn't have the *potential* to be SO good. A how to video with no explanation is like reading a book with no words.
Again thank you, I take care of your words. That of the voice over is an old issue: some likes it, others don't. I decided to avoid the voice over and use the Instructables to give more informations to people who want to learn something more. This doesn't mean I will not try something different in the future. For now I will add a link to the Instructable, as you suggest. Keep following me!
If you want some more deep instructions on how to make this knives, check this Instructable: www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Kiridashi-Knives/
I see that you used 5mm var stock could you do these with 2.7mm stock as I ordered some by accident and was hoping to make kiridashis out of it
@@ironkid8836 You can definitely use that thickness to make a lighter kiridashy!
@@VroladesignIta thanks for that I'll just be careful so also subbed to your channel gettin back into knife making forging thanks again
Awesome video. I'm glad to see others showing that you don't need amazing and/or expensive tools to do amazing work!
Thank you very much!
No paper cutting test? No arm hair cutting? You can't be a real knife maker! ;-)
(Great video, beautiful knives.)
Nice job! I recently used a similar method to make a dented knife blade.
Thank you
pretty sweet setup for the torch!
Ржал как конь. Мастерство ковки на уровне!😲 А гриндер просто чумовой!
Хатуль Мадан ты уж ржать можешь больше. Мы то всегда думали что эта кукорямба просто сапожный нож сделанный из подручных говна и палок а это оказывается высокое японское искусство ножедельства,крайне неудобное в бытовых реалиях.
*Excelente kiridashi. Like # 198. Saludos desde México...*
Thank you very much!
Sweet knives. Thanks for sharing.
Nice design I really like it. I will have to give that hammer texturing technique a try too.
Thank you! Yes, you should!
Wow! Very Cool Knives! Thanks for Sharing the process with us! Looking forward to seeing all your videos! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Thank you very much!
Very inspiring workshop for the DIY folks - nothing obscure or crazy. What's the anvil made of?
Great work!
Thanks, man!
made it !
this is so cool i can throw them at things
Nice!
thanks
how old r u? just asking to see if its possible for my age :)
Good Job man!
Thank you!
Dose double edge kogatana have microbevel "koba"?
Hi mate, can you please post a printable template for the knife? I am new and want to give this a go.
Thanks
You really don't need a template, just draw it by yourself with the dimension and th esize you like. If you have doubts, in 5 minutes you can make a wooden prototype and see how it fits in your hand.
dude, thats like that simplest shape knife out there
what type of steel and size,didn't catch it
Idk
where in the US can you get K720 (Aisi-O2) or something close?
SOrry but I can't help you! Maybe somebody else can...
James McGuire google "metal distributor near me" on google and you'll get places. 0 - 1 tool is also a good high carbon steel. Which I prefer because you can get a Sharper Edge than stainless steel and it's a lot easier to harden and temper
you should be on the radio
Ciao Guido mi chiamo enzo sono di napoli e costruisco coltelli da 7-8 anni. tu di dove sei? complimenti per il video
Ciao Enzo, grazie per il passaggio. Io sono di Belluno.
Your next knife will be a crooked knife for your spoon bowls!
Elaine D You are probably right! ;)
I see you tried making one of your blades appear forged, although this was not forging. Your fire was nowhere near hot enough to forge steel. When you heat treated the steel your color was way too low for a proper heat treatment. I could not see the quenching fluid you used so I have nothing to offer there. However, given the relatively low heat color of your steel at the time you quenched for heat treating, it's likely that the metal was still relatively soft before you tempered it in your oven. That looked almost like a tempering oven. However, when you tempered at 200º C, that heat range was also a bit too low.
I usually heat treat my blades to a bright cherry red. When it's glowing evenly throughout the blades are quickly quenched in oil. Then I temper my blades in our kitchen oven at around 425ºF for about 10 minutes, or until the blades turn a pale straw color, then will shut the oven off and allow it to cool slowly. I usually wait until the end of the day before tempering my blades to allow the oven to remain shut as the knife blades cool. This evens the tempering throughout but also ensures that the center of the blade remains relatively flexible and softer than the surrounding steel. The slow cooling process normalizes the steel slightly, making a more flexible blade that still holds its edge in use.
That said, had you brought the temp of the blades to a proper cherry red color, the tempering procedure you used would have left the blades too hard and brittle. As it is, your tempering color heat was too low and likely left the blades soft. Your tempering process would have softened the steel even more, making it difficult for the blade to hold an edge. I examined the photos of the spoon you were carving, and the cut-marks from your blades confirmed my suspicion that your blades are too soft and not holding an edge properly. It's my suspicion that while you were carving, the edge of your blades rolled and puckered as you sliced through the wood.
There is an art to heat treating and tempering steel correctly. I still get it wrong from time to time, but not as often. Please don't be offended with my observations. I've been forging and making knives for almost 39, going on 40 years. I have a little bit of an understanding of the knifemaking processes.
Regarding forging the blades... you need to keep the steel in the fire and allow it to soak long enough to turn a bright even yellow. When you start forging the steel should hold its color and cool gradually, and you should get roughly 40-50 seconds of forge time before you need to soak it in the forge fire again. Your ball pein hammer needs some attention and needs to be dressed. Sanding it on your sander to smooth away the dimples and hammering marks will allow for a much cleaner forge. That little belt sander you are using his hardly adequate for what you are trying to do. It might be worth your while to invest in a better one if you want to keep making knives. And, there are drilling hammers available in hardware stores for not a lot of money. A decent 2.5 pound or 3 pound drilling hammer or sledge hammer will do wonders. I have several. I ground one face flat and rounded the other face. I keep all my hammers shined and polished smooth because it offers better forging marks on the steel and requires less grinding to clean away hammering marks from forging. I also own several different size ball pein hammers and a cross pein hammer for my work, and I have about 7 pairs of tongs for my work. Like you, I have a Railroad Track Anvil, one that I made almost 20 years ago. That little chunk of RR track you have is perfect for making small knives.
Find a way to make the front opening of your forge a little smaller. It's too big and allows for too much heat to escape. I know many people who use homemade forges like your little propane torch forge. They enclose the opening of their forge with fire bricks to hold in most of the heat.
You did a nice job grinding the bevel on the Japanese Style Marking knives you made. It was a bold move grinding it on that electric sander. If that's all you have to use, then may I suggest switching out your sanding belts and use a fresh new one for your knifemaking. It will speed up the process and make it easier to shape the blades. Also, and this is more of a must than a suggestion... keep a bucket of cold water nearby so that you can quench the steel as you grind. Not quenching create hotspots in the steel and can burn and ruin a blade. This is because if the blade gets too hot while grinding, it burns out the carbon and you'll be left with a piece of steel that will never hold an edge no matter how you try heat treating and tempering. I'm glad to see that you have a decent pair of tongs. It might be worth it to invest in several other pairs, including a blade holding pair. There are numerous places available online where you could buy nice tongs for not a lot of money. Some are as little as $40-$45. Keep at it and don't give up.
Thank you for your comments, you're certainly more experienced than me. However, I have to correct you in a couple of points. I did not try to make it look like it was forged, I just added a hammered texture, both as an aesthetic decoration, and to improve the grip of the knife. And I succeeded, exactly as I wanted.
Regarding the temperature of the heat treatment, there's no way you can judge the color of the steel from a video. It appears dark because the video is underexposed. You can get it from the fact that even the color of the forge is dark, and this is not possible. I use these knives for over a year now and are always sharp, so I can guarantee you that they are properly hardened.
The tools I use are certainly not professional, but I do not make knives for a trade. I make a variety of different things, not just knives. Maybe I do a little 'more effort than necessary but I usually get the result. Keep watching :)
Not sure why he even bothered to heat it and hit it with a hammer other than to add a bit of texturing, but he could have done that cold....???? Didn't forge a thing, complete cut out stock removal, no skill really type piece...looks nice and will be functional if heat treated well, but wow, why bother even having a forge?
Its funny how knifemakers say diy like everyone has each and every single one of these tools
This is possible to make with simple tools tho. It will just take longer
Speak man! Explain what you are doing. I've seen you throw slow motion and other such simple effects into your videos. Doing a little voice over to explain what/why you're doing is faster and easier than some of the other techniques you're using. So please give some instruction. OR SUBTITLES even. And/or at least post a link to your Instructable (which is how I found you).
I wouldn't be so emphatic if your videos didn't have the *potential* to be SO good. A how to video with no explanation is like reading a book with no words.
Again thank you, I take care of your words. That of the voice over is an old issue: some likes it, others don't.
I decided to avoid the voice over and use the Instructables to give more informations to people who want to learn something more. This doesn't mean I will not try something different in the future. For now I will add a link to the Instructable, as you suggest. Keep following me!