at work I have an Escalade that intermittently has the left rear wheel locked up when turning left, so its hopping. This Video made me understand how this works. thanks for posting.
People who end up breaking the g80 rear locker have never changed the diff fluid or they were burning rubber on the street....I learned the hard way on the proper/unproper ways of using the G80.....one time I braked torqued the wheels one to many times and did one to many massive burnouts.....And Boom the G80 exploded on the tarmac!!. Anyways when i did used it correctly the G80 rear locker worked great in getting the truck thru offroad obsticles that would get any other truck with open diffs stuck.....the G80 is flawless in offroad conditions and will never break due to the lose terrain in offroad conditions..but even on regular tarmac the g80 can help you with traction but just make sure to go easy on the gas pedal, street tarmac provides way more grip than unpaved dirt roads.
@tubeoverton My truck see's its fair share of mud and slick stuff, so i know eaton did something right. The locker is best used for me when crossing a ditch, because it throws one wheel up in the air and tucks the other one in the fender well, but with the g80 it keeps on going. My dad has a 2000 2wd silverado 1500 with 165K miles on it and im pretty sure it has a g80 and it has absolutely no problems once so ever.
Thanks for the feedback! I also have one in my 04' Trailblazer. It's the best vehicle I've ever owned, got 125,000 on it and have used the lock up feature many times and like you, I haven't had any trouble. I serviced the fluid in it @ 75,000 and probably will again @ 150,000. I plan on doing a video of that service when I do it and will share with you guys. Granted, I don't do the "off-road, try to tear something up stuff ", but it worked really well in the 6" of snow we had recently.
i know it will eventually break but so far mine has not failed....i run 37" OZ's 350 sm465 divorced np205........but im always in compound gear or 4 low when im running it in the sticky stuff so i doubt it ever disengages after its locked......we'll have to see when it breaks.....i picked up an open diff carrier for a grizzly or detroit locker
I know it's more complex that a conventional limited slip differential for sure. Surprisingly enough though, we haven't seen much trouble out of these units. I believe that in all the years of it's inception that I have only seen 2 come into our shop with an issue. I agree that simplicity is golden and that if you have had good luck with something, stay with it. Thanks for the feedback.
So in theory, if I put a heavier spring, OR turn added some turns onto the existing spring on the counter weight you could have you the differential remain locked longer?
I don't think that if you were going up an icy upgrade @ 40 mph that you would have to worry bout slipping. However, if you did begin to slip your upward speed would theoretically decrease until the speed at which the locking feature was re-enabled. At that point, you would have normal locking capability.
@CowboyPenner The locking action of the differential doesn't kick in at an exact speed. It begins to lock whenever there is a difference in speed between the left and right axles of about 150 rpms. However, the locking feature is mechanically disabled at speeds above 25 mph for safety purposes. (cornering at speeds above 25 mph with locked rear end could cause severe "fish tailing" and loss of vehicle control).
Thanks for the nice explanation and graphics. One question. What causes the mechanism to disengage? I've looked everywhere and most explanations stop after lockup. If you could explain what causes it to unlock that would be appreciated. Thanks.
When the differential side gears approach the same speed (in other words the wheels are rotating at the same speed) there will be little to no axial force between the side gears and the clutch packs. Once the axial force decreases and less force is applied to the clutch packs, the differential will act more like an open differential instead of being locked up. (refer to the video at 1:07 and 3:50 for visuals)
So at high speeds the locking mechanism does not engage because the centrifugal force pulls the pawl away from the fly weights, did I understand that correctly? So say you're going 40mph and on an icy upgrade then the differential would act as an open differential, correct?
I think the easier way to get what you want is just cut a bunch of mass off the counterweight, then it probably would lock up at any speed. However, it won't help much because if you are doing >25 MPH you are either not stuck or too inexperienced to get unstuck. But, it would make driving on icy roads at high speeds quite interesting.
@Metallica1071991 I think if you made the counter spring stronger it would probably raise the speed at which the locking feature becomes disabled...? So I think this wouldn't necessarily make it stay "locked" longer, just have the ability to "lock" at higher vehicle speeds...?
from what i see once it locks it will remain locked now matter what speed is reached. the lockout flyweight is there so it doesn't lockup at high speed.
@tubeoverton In northern minnesota (Duluth) where we experience a lot of hills, I do often find myself in situations where I could be going 50+mph and hit an incline where I need to maintain my momentum, but since it is ice the traction is near nil so even at those speeds you tend to spin your tires a good amount. In theses cases it would be ideal for the driver to have maximum traction in order to maintain the current momentum. I don't see it as ideal that I need to reduce my momentum.
@brandon54321att It is true that this video is not as exciting as your xbox, but I can't take credit for making it, just posting it. And don't worry about not being able to understand it now, maybe when you get a little older you'll be able to figure it out....?
i was off road with my 98 tahoe with a 3.73 rear and auto diff locker, to make a long story short the wheel came off the truck because the c clip failed or something else happend causing the shaft that connects the diff and wheel together to come out of the diff,the truck is off road where tow trucks can't get ,s just the c clip bad or could something in the diff be bad as well? can i just buy a new c clip and put it on?
I've one f these in my97 K1500 Suburban. Actually I just bought it, with the understanding that, the rear diff was toast. Yeah, it was a the G-80. It was several screwed. But, it didn't need to be. At some point, both axle seals began leaking, ran low on lube, and tore itself up. I can't blame that, on the differential, or, Eaton. That was someone who wasn't too keen on repairing their vehicle! I bought a complete diif from a guy for $200, and had it swapped in a day working on it myself. Backlash on the replacement was about 8 thou, s,o I'm good to go. At some point, I intend to replace this, with a Detroit Locker, because I want to use it for hunting, and serious work and play.
I have a stock G80 on a 02' Trailblazer with 220k miles. It's not bad if you rotate the fluid and respect what it's for. I can't imagine it not doing what you want. Just respect it and it's fucking awesome. I live in Minnesota so my biggest worry is dry pavement to ice patches. Be mindful of the slip and keep the fluid fresh. The only other thing, after a fluid change, take it out and give her some hell to force the new fluid. I didn't have to do that when it was new but as it's aging I notice some locking when I don't want it to. GL.
nix tux speaking of ice patches, i was coming home late at night and some water had froze on the road. i was making a right hand turn from a stop sign and as i accelerated reasonably the inside wheel hit the ice and spun causing the g-80 to lock and break the outside wheel loose, causing the ass end of the truck to spin out, i immediately began to counter steer and bring it back straight but i could see where a less seasoned driver may have seriously lost it. thankfully i was the only one at the 4 way stop or it would have been a trip to the body shop for my truck. it did the same thing a few weeks later on a wet, sharp turn on a country road. this time it was partly due to my driving style. when approaching a turn i slow down to a speed i feel comfortable making the turn then apply a little gas to maintain speed through the turn or even accelerate coming out. if i would have coasted through the turn it wouldn't have been a problem.
I don't notice those issues on turns. It seems to lock and straighten out when I have slip in turns. I guess the initial slip can throw it in a bit, but I haven't noticed it getting out of control.
It's probably due more to the higher labor rates that we charge, that's true. I think it's round $90 and hour. Anyway, you have raised my curiosity about em. We have a 4x4 shop on the other side of town that we have a purdy good relationship with. I'll drop in on those guys sometime and see what they know bout em. I thought about you when I went to sleep last night for some reason when I said my prayers. I wasn't sure why, don't know what you got going on in your life, but I prayed for you.
The left side gear planetary has a 2 pieces lobe wheel wich is moved when the barrel counter weights locks .Then press the friction clutches .That is ok. What i don understand is how are pressed or released the clutches wich are behind the right planetary gear,cause this does not have a lobe wheel...
Sounds like, to me, that the G80 works just like the Eaton No-Spin diff / Detroit Locker...However, the G80 is a lot more complex in design / function. Because of the more complex design / function, i'm not too sure that I like it! Think i'll stick to a Eaton No Spin / Detroit Locker!
Backing up on wet grass I heard a loud boom. My g80 engaged and blew up. Service mgr. at Chevrolet told me it was normal. Everything is norman when under warranty.
As a general rule, I would not recommend pavement burnouts with a G80, the are known to boom under heavy abuse. They generally don't let loose very easily once they lock up. But I haven't really done high speed long burnouts with them, so maybe they would let loose if the speed got high enough. I think if that is your intent, both yours and my ideas would do what you want, but at the risk of more dangerous handling on slippery roads. This is what happens under heavy use: /watch?v=xr_00EQBx7I
The G80 Mlocker is indeed a glorified limited slip differential. At a predetermined RPM a speed sensitive flyweight system and pawl engage or disengage a clutch pack very similar to a "limited slip" differential. It has clutch packs folks. Use a GL-5 synthetic w/ LS on the label. Don't add any other FM's. You'll be fine.
Willard Eisenhouser I have intensionally locked my g 80, one tire on ice one on pavement. It locked both Axle shafts. It works nothing like a limited slip. A LSD will slip in the same situation. I tried it with my car.
I put one tire on ice and one on pavement. When the G 80 locked, Both tire's spun equally. And when I drove away and made a turn, the inner tire was squeeling, the diff was still locked which is a trait of the G80. I tried the same with my car with a limited slip, the tire on the ice broke free and the axle made a loud groaning sound. Yes, the G 80 is a LOCKING differential and it works!!
@@philllsxga.7737 The additive is for the clutch packs to stop them from dragging when not engaged. Most likely your truck manual specifies a particular oil which has the additive in it. Without said additive limited slip units tend to chatter around corners. The G80 acts both as a limited slip as well as a locker. Used to rag on this thing hard when I worked in powertrain, but understanding it (IE - Don't do a standing burnout on dry pavement) the design is absolutely ingenious.
@@shadowwolfmandan my car takes the additive my truck doesn't. My car's owners manual tell to add the additive, my trucks does not. .and as you know If you have a truck with a G 80 and it locks, sometimes it stays locked for a few minutes after a on tire drag's in a turn.
I know it's more complex that a conventional limited slip differential for sure. Surprisingly enough though, we haven't seen much trouble out of these units. I believe that in all the years of it's inception that I have only seen 2 come into our shop with an issue. I agree that simplicity is golden and that if you have had good luck with something, stay with it. Thanks for the feedback.
You said you have only seen 2 in your shop with problems can you possibly say what problems you encountered with them if you don’t mind ? We have a unit with a rattling noise and a clunking when it engages and we can’t really see any damages to unit parts and can you affirm if an additive has to add to the lubricant ? Any mortal of experience would highly appreciated.
@@mikewatkins3346 The only problem I've seen is with the cam plate engagement mechanism (see video at 2:37). The issue then leads to other busted parts and pieces, in both cases it was the spider gears and spacer block that blew. This differential, as well as, almost ALL RWD limited slip and locking differentials utilize some sort of friction additive in the differential in addition to the differential fluid.
Does the lockout mechanism have enough force to *unlock* the diff at speed? Or can it only prevent lockup at speed? It looks like the engagement pawls should have enough leverage to remain engaged to prevent the lockout mechanism from rotating away once engaged.
Thank you, that was exactly what I was looking for explained perfectly and without any bs at all.
at work I have an Escalade that intermittently has the left rear wheel locked up when turning left, so its hopping. This Video made me understand how this works. thanks for posting.
So I opened it up and found damaged teeth on the cam plate and missing teeth on the engagement mechanism or governer.
WOW, I was LOST!!! Just glad it works....lol
Lmao
People who end up breaking the g80 rear locker have never changed the diff fluid or they were burning rubber on the street....I learned the hard way on the proper/unproper ways of using the G80.....one time I braked torqued the wheels one to many times and did one to many massive burnouts.....And Boom the G80 exploded on the tarmac!!.
Anyways when i did used it correctly the G80 rear locker worked great in getting the truck thru offroad obsticles that would get any other truck with open diffs stuck.....the G80 is flawless in offroad conditions and will never break due to the lose terrain in offroad conditions..but even on regular tarmac the g80 can help you with traction but just make sure to go easy on the gas pedal, street tarmac provides way more grip than unpaved dirt roads.
Come on... It's a shit design, and you know it. Wait... you're a subaru guy... you live for shit designs...
excellent video, is there a way to test if a G80 is operating correctly; by jacking up the rear end and spinning the tires?
@tubeoverton My truck see's its fair share of mud and slick stuff, so i know eaton did something right. The locker is best used for me when crossing a ditch, because it throws one wheel up in the air and tucks the other one in the fender well, but with the g80 it keeps on going. My dad has a 2000 2wd silverado 1500 with 165K miles on it and im pretty sure it has a g80 and it has absolutely no problems once so ever.
Thanks for the feedback! I also have one in my 04' Trailblazer. It's the best vehicle I've ever owned, got 125,000 on it and have used the lock up feature many times and like you, I haven't had any trouble. I serviced the fluid in it @ 75,000 and probably will again @ 150,000. I plan on doing a video of that service when I do it and will share with you guys. Granted, I don't do the "off-road, try to tear something up stuff ", but it worked really well in the 6" of snow we had recently.
Just got a PLM rear diff cover put on the 04 TB - at 240 K - and I did not even KNOW about the clutch packs inside these limited slip diffs. amazing.
I have a 99 blazer LT with the g80 and 3.42 gearing. Thing has 260k (highway) and the locker is still working
i know it will eventually break but so far mine has not failed....i run 37" OZ's 350 sm465 divorced np205........but im always in compound gear or 4 low when im running it in the sticky stuff so i doubt it ever disengages after its locked......we'll have to see when it breaks.....i picked up an open diff carrier for a grizzly or detroit locker
I know it's more complex that a conventional limited slip differential for sure. Surprisingly enough though, we haven't seen much trouble out of these units. I believe that in all the years of it's inception that I have only seen 2 come into our shop with an issue. I agree that simplicity is golden and that if you have had good luck with something, stay with it.
Thanks for the feedback.
So in theory, if I put a heavier spring, OR turn added some turns onto the existing spring on the counter weight you could have you the differential remain locked longer?
Solid video 👊
I like the jungle music.
I don't think that if you were going up an icy upgrade @ 40 mph that you would have to worry bout slipping. However, if you did begin to slip your upward speed would theoretically decrease until the speed at which the locking feature was re-enabled. At that point, you would have normal locking capability.
@CowboyPenner The locking action of the differential doesn't kick in at an exact speed. It begins to lock whenever there is a difference in speed between the left and right axles of about 150 rpms. However, the locking feature is mechanically disabled at speeds above 25 mph for safety purposes. (cornering at speeds above 25 mph with locked rear end could cause severe "fish tailing" and loss of vehicle control).
The video literally says 100rpm amd 20mph
i'm guessing thats wat in my 2009 gmc serria z71
Hello,
Does any body know if you take out the engagement mechanisme, you can say its now an open carrier?
Yes.
Thanks for the nice explanation and graphics. One question. What causes the mechanism to disengage? I've looked everywhere and most explanations stop after lockup. If you could explain what causes it to unlock that would be appreciated. Thanks.
When the differential side gears approach the same speed (in other words the wheels are rotating at the same speed) there will be little to no axial force between the side gears and the clutch packs. Once the axial force decreases and less force is applied to the clutch packs, the differential will act more like an open differential instead of being locked up. (refer to the video at 1:07 and 3:50 for visuals)
@@tubeoverton Thank you. That is helpful.
So at high speeds the locking mechanism does not engage because the centrifugal force pulls the pawl away from the fly weights, did I understand that correctly? So say you're going 40mph and on an icy upgrade then the differential would act as an open differential, correct?
@meandatoilet its in all the gm trucks and suvs
I wonder what the acceleration and de-acceleration setting is on this id love to know
120 RPM
I think the easier way to get what you want is just cut a bunch of mass off the counterweight, then it probably would lock up at any speed.
However, it won't help much because if you are doing >25 MPH you are either not stuck or too inexperienced to get unstuck.
But, it would make driving on icy roads at high speeds quite interesting.
@Metallica1071991 I think if you made the counter spring stronger it would probably raise the speed at which the locking feature becomes disabled...? So I think this wouldn't necessarily make it stay "locked" longer, just have the ability to "lock" at higher vehicle speeds...?
from what i see once it locks it will remain locked now matter what speed is reached. the lockout flyweight is there so it doesn't lockup at high speed.
@tubeoverton In northern minnesota (Duluth) where we experience a lot of hills, I do often find myself in situations where I could be going 50+mph and hit an incline where I need to maintain my momentum, but since it is ice the traction is near nil so even at those speeds you tend to spin your tires a good amount. In theses cases it would be ideal for the driver to have maximum traction in order to maintain the current momentum. I don't see it as ideal that I need to reduce my momentum.
@brandon54321att It is true that this video is not as exciting as your xbox, but I can't take credit for making it, just posting it. And don't worry about not being able to understand it now, maybe when you get a little older you'll be able to figure it out....?
i was off road with my 98 tahoe with a 3.73 rear and auto diff locker, to make a long story short the wheel came off the truck because the c clip failed or something else happend causing the shaft that connects the diff and wheel together to come out of the diff,the truck is off road where tow trucks can't get ,s just the c clip bad or could something in the diff be bad as well? can i just buy a new c clip and put it on?
I would say yes, but I could be mistaken.
I think you could just zip tie the flyweights closed and you'd probably have what you want.
I've one f these in my97 K1500 Suburban. Actually I just bought it, with the understanding that, the rear diff was toast.
Yeah, it was a the G-80. It was several screwed.
But, it didn't need to be. At some point, both axle seals began leaking, ran low on lube, and tore itself up. I can't blame that, on the differential, or, Eaton. That was someone who wasn't too keen on repairing their vehicle!
I bought a complete diif from a guy for $200, and had it swapped in a day working on it myself. Backlash on the replacement was about 8 thou, s,o I'm good to go.
At some point, I intend to replace this, with a Detroit Locker, because I want to use it for hunting, and serious work and play.
I have a stock G80 on a 02' Trailblazer with 220k miles. It's not bad if you rotate the fluid and respect what it's for. I can't imagine it not doing what you want. Just respect it and it's fucking awesome. I live in Minnesota so my biggest worry is dry pavement to ice patches. Be mindful of the slip and keep the fluid fresh. The only other thing, after a fluid change, take it out and give her some hell to force the new fluid. I didn't have to do that when it was new but as it's aging I notice some locking when I don't want it to. GL.
nix tux speaking of ice patches, i was coming home late at night and some water had froze on the road. i was making a right hand turn from a stop sign and as i accelerated reasonably the inside wheel hit the ice and spun causing the g-80 to lock and break the outside wheel loose, causing the ass end of the truck to spin out, i immediately began to counter steer and bring it back straight but i could see where a less seasoned driver may have seriously lost it. thankfully i was the only one at the 4 way stop or it would have been a trip to the body shop for my truck. it did the same thing a few weeks later on a wet, sharp turn on a country road. this time it was partly due to my driving style. when approaching a turn i slow down to a speed i feel comfortable making the turn then apply a little gas to maintain speed through the turn or even accelerate coming out. if i would have coasted through the turn it wouldn't have been a problem.
+ihearvoices22 my father own's an 07 Silverado with the g80 and the same thing happens it's normal
I don't notice those issues on turns. It seems to lock and straighten out when I have slip in turns. I guess the initial slip can throw it in a bit, but I haven't noticed it getting out of control.
It's probably due more to the higher labor rates that we charge, that's true. I think it's round $90 and hour. Anyway, you have raised my curiosity about em. We have a 4x4 shop on the other side of town that we have a purdy good relationship with. I'll drop in on those guys sometime and see what they know bout em. I thought about you when I went to sleep last night for some reason when I said my prayers. I wasn't sure why, don't know what you got going on in your life, but I prayed for you.
Wow the electronic locker is much simpler and it ain't that hard to activate.
The left side gear planetary has a 2 pieces lobe wheel wich is moved when the barrel counter weights locks .Then press the friction clutches .That is ok.
What i don understand is how are pressed or released the clutches wich are behind the right planetary gear,cause this does not have a lobe wheel...
Sounds like, to me, that the G80 works just like the Eaton No-Spin diff / Detroit Locker...However, the G80 is a lot more complex in design / function. Because of the more complex design / function, i'm not too sure that I like it! Think i'll stick to a Eaton No Spin / Detroit Locker!
yes it is.
i think i perfer the clutch type diff dont kno why but yeah
@meandatoilet Yes.
Backing up on wet grass I heard a loud boom. My g80 engaged and blew up. Service mgr. at Chevrolet told me it was normal. Everything is norman when under warranty.
@tubeoverton Bingo. But I'm not about to try it on my truck.
من طرف أبو ريم الميكانيكي الحبّاب
-إبليس مر من هنا.
As a general rule, I would not recommend pavement burnouts with a G80, the are known to boom under heavy abuse.
They generally don't let loose very easily once they lock up. But I haven't really done high speed long burnouts with them, so maybe they would let loose if the speed got high enough.
I think if that is your intent, both yours and my ideas would do what you want, but at the risk of more dangerous handling on slippery roads.
This is what happens under heavy use:
/watch?v=xr_00EQBx7I
if it has a g80 code in the glove box yes
The G80 Mlocker is indeed a glorified limited slip differential. At a predetermined RPM a speed sensitive flyweight system and pawl engage or disengage a clutch pack very similar to a "limited slip" differential.
It has clutch packs folks. Use a GL-5 synthetic w/ LS on the label. Don't add any other FM's. You'll be fine.
Willard Eisenhouser I have intensionally locked my g 80, one tire on ice one on pavement. It locked both Axle shafts. It works nothing like a limited slip. A LSD will slip in the same situation. I tried it with my car.
I put one tire on ice and one on pavement. When the G 80 locked, Both tire's spun equally. And when I drove away and made a turn, the inner tire was squeeling, the diff was still locked which is a trait of the G80. I tried the same with my car with a limited slip, the tire on the ice broke free and the axle made a loud groaning sound. Yes, the G 80 is a LOCKING differential and it works!!
My owners manual says nothing about an additive in my truck and I have a G80..
@@philllsxga.7737 The additive is for the clutch packs to stop them from dragging when not engaged. Most likely your truck manual specifies a particular oil which has the additive in it. Without said additive limited slip units tend to chatter around corners.
The G80 acts both as a limited slip as well as a locker. Used to rag on this thing hard when I worked in powertrain, but understanding it (IE - Don't do a standing burnout on dry pavement) the design is absolutely ingenious.
@@shadowwolfmandan my car takes the additive my truck doesn't. My car's owners manual tell to add the additive, my trucks does not. .and as you know If you have a truck with a G 80 and it locks, sometimes it stays locked for a few minutes after a on tire drag's in a turn.
no problems with mine 190K miles with original transmission and motor and no problems!!
That proves your smart enough to understand what it's use was intended for and, not abuse it.
I'm thinking more like burnouts on dry tar, no mud. Truck gets sideways and bam it's suddenly boiling one tire.
Thanks for your explanation that even a spoiled Brat twenty year old could understand that it's not indestructible....
You'll have to admit that a child could choke on the small parts.
An adult would choke on the larger parts.
مافهمت ولا شي
G 80
eaton is my last name
shame
Chevy dealer
unsafe to hard work
jeep QuadraDrive go better
UNO page 🤞🚬🔩
I know it's more complex that a conventional limited slip differential for sure. Surprisingly enough though, we haven't seen much trouble out of these units. I believe that in all the years of it's inception that I have only seen 2 come into our shop with an issue. I agree that simplicity is golden and that if you have had good luck with something, stay with it.
Thanks for the feedback.
You said you have only seen 2 in your shop with problems can you possibly say what problems you encountered with them if you don’t mind ? We have a unit with a rattling noise and a clunking when it engages and we can’t really see any damages to unit parts and can you affirm if an additive has to add to the lubricant ? Any mortal of experience would highly appreciated.
@@mikewatkins3346 The only problem I've seen is with the cam plate engagement mechanism (see video at 2:37). The issue then leads to other busted parts and pieces, in both cases it was the spider gears and spacer block that blew. This differential, as well as, almost ALL RWD limited slip and locking differentials utilize some sort of friction additive in the differential in addition to the differential fluid.
Does the lockout mechanism have enough force to *unlock* the diff at speed? Or can it only prevent lockup at speed? It looks like the engagement pawls should have enough leverage to remain engaged to prevent the lockout mechanism from rotating away once engaged.