G80 FIXED | Gov Lock that can roast tires and drift | Vega EP16
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- Опубліковано 21 чер 2020
- The GM G80 Automatic Locking differential is known by many names from Chevrolet to Volvo enthusiasts. It's known for not being able to do high speed burnouts or drifting and, for grenading into a million little pieces. The grenading is due to the very abrupt way it locks up and how that is not good when more horsepower is applied. We take a stab at fixing both of those problems inn this video. Enjoy the video and don't forget to hit the subscribe button!!
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burnoutsandrotorblades
burnoutsandrotorblades
#roastem #driftvega - Авто та транспорт
So much respect for wrecking and not making a click bait video. This video was filled with helpful knowledge and entertainment! Hard to find good youtube channels like this
That dad look had me rolling.
I never actually took the time to science this one out so I’m glad that you did. I’ll be doing this to the old short box chevy in a few days. I will say the g80’s feel amazing when they decide to hook up.
75 rpm as measured on one axle. The other axle is spinning at 75 rpm in the other direction. The difference in speed between the two is 150rpm.
This video was extremely helpful. I've heard of people modifying g80s but this is by far the best demonstration I've seen.
The other side was clamped down to prevent it from spinning.
This world needs more people like you. Thank you for making such an amazing video. You are so patient and have so much knowledge.
Thank you!
Volvo and Chevy guys gathering round just tryna do skids modding their G80s. Nice.
Damn man, I was wondering if there was a way to mod the G80 to keep it's function over 20mph and this is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of, instead of just welding it up like most people! Thanks so much for this, my 940 is going to fucking rip now.
There is a youtube channel called drifts and lifts I think, he regularly drifts a Volvo. Might be some good Volvo-specific stuff there for you. I hope I can keep you entertained over here too. Hope the mod helps you out!
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Thanks man, been watching Drifts N' Lifts since he started on youtube :) Glad I found your channel as you seem like a cool guy and I like your builds! Looking forward to seeing more of this Chevy!
Good video and research of an Eaton locking diff. Unfortunately I don't have a locking diff to modify so I'll get a Racing Diffs friction conversion kit to provide a pseudo Torsen action instead. I think it will be kinder for a street orientated application.
Excellent mod! Just now subbed. Thanks
Thanks for the sub!
One reason I think yours changed the speed drastically is it likely de-tempered the spring.
After reading the comments, I'd probably do it a bit different. I'd weld the disengagement block to only the diff or the weight, but tapped in as a wedge shape. Or just increase the disengage speed by drilling into the weight.
I'd also be curious if you could add weight to the engagement flywheel by drilling into them and pounding lead in, like mallory metal added to a crank. You could then tune it to your liking very easily.
It would put less weight into the diff - it might not be much given the diff's mass but I'd rather have a rotating assembly with better balance when possible.
de-tempering/annealing the spring is something I was nervous about. If the spring annealed, it would not return as snappy as it does. The process is all about what you want to achieve. I wanted a lockup at lower relative tire speed. Drilling the weight would make it lighter and it would engage at a higher RPM, or greater differential tire speed. this defeats the purpose for me since I don't want such a harsh engagement. Disengagement speed is not a concern for me at all though. I think the idea of adding led might work, but that seems more complicated than zapping a bit of weld to the weight.
This is awesome! I cant wait to do this on my gmc
I love your Vega!
I’ve seen this done a few times, great mod but if you ever drive where it’s icy be very careful, my buddy did this on his K1500 and one night he was cruising along about 45mph and hit a patch of black ice with just the pass side tire, which quickly accelerated with the loss of traction. This violent action caused the flyweight housing to crack and send the weights into the teeth of the ring and pinion gears, locking up the rear end and causing the truck to spin 180 and come to a stop, thankfully on its wheels. After this episode he went to a worm gear type LS from a Camaro and had no more worries.
The Vega is never getting driven in the ice. At least not as long as I own it. Thank you for the heads up through!
In some ways the E-locker is the best, because you can lock it when needed/want to. Yet so expensive.
thanx, good info, keep burnin!
excellent video! Very useful info!
Lol love the vid unedited and informative
How's the longevity been on your gov bomb? I put one in my rambler LS swap project, and am wondering how yours has held up. Love this video, and can't believe it doesn't have more views... Your presentation and the content is great!'I thought you were talking to a man' lol
Interesting... a L.L.L rear end. (Lincoln Locker Light) 🤣. I wondered if you could do something like this. Glad to know it works.
Haha nice Scam/virus
YESSS!! My gmc canyon thanks you!
Thxs you just caused the cost of a G80 to go up. That I use in my 78 sunbird and S10. :P But then I never blew one. Instead of welding weights. tweak the springs, It dont take much. I can get my G80 to lock with little over half a turn by hand on the tire. With that being said, I like the idea of welding the unlocking pawl. I cut the one on my sunbird. Go Go Hbody !
the unlocking pawl can be cut or welded as you know. It is just hard to cut in the car without making a huge mess. I wanted a repeatable process and adding weld to a particular area. It's not about how far the tire rotates, it's about the speed differential. it could rotate all day without locking if it did it slow enough. I was changing the speed.
So welding the bottom one stops it from disengaging after 20mph
I’ve always wondered if just removing the fly weight springs or adding in weaker ones would do the same thing so they fly out almost immediately instead of having to overcome the spring pressure
I mean that is what is holding them in there, so I would say yes, I think they should produce more spring and flyout weight options. I know it is all dendent on tire diameter too, but if someone could nail down that with options it would be well received.
Thank you for this vid. I still have the original G80 in my Chevy 1976 K20 pick-up and just tore it apart yesterday to take a good look at it. Everything surprisingly looks great! For years I have been running straight 80-90 wt gear oil in this unit. But now that I know what I actually have. Would you recommend adding a limited slip additive in the gear oil? or is that not necessary since these type of clutch packs don't chatter in the traditional way typical clutch operated LSD work?
The data from Chevrolet says very specifically, do NOT add limited slip additive.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Makes sense to me. Thank you sir.
I end up with gov lockers in pickups, but the harsh lockup leads to damaging axle hop and harsh shock to the drivetrain in even light to moderate offroading.
this mod looks great for people with the factory gov locker in their pickups. Seems like I'd have to tune my weights to act right for the application.
ps: it looks like you live in my mother in law's neighborhood (vegas/summerlinn, nv)
That is what I understood causes the failure, harsh lock-up. tuning them would be pretty tricky. It would take some time and patience. I lived in North Las Vegas when this was filmed. In San Antonio now.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades
Final thoughts after trying it: don't ajdust the weights on your daily driver, but the speed lockout mod was ok. my 1st attempt to tune it with weights was a failure. The dif was locking up bad in parking lots etc so it may as well have been a welded dif.
2nd time around i had to recontour the engagement teeth with a dremel and now it's alright. This mod will never feel like a proper clutch type differential, but for a budget option or a moderate off road rig it's okay if you dont mind taking it apart a few times to get it right.
@@SpecOpsGear that is some awesome follow up . Thank you.
I jacked my 02' Blazer ZR2 up after changing the rear driver's side wheel bearing & I discovered that I had a G80 Locker in mine.
With it jacked up, the passenger side spins in neutral & kicks that locker in & out.
I've never noticed chirping or anything but it seems to lock up at 100rpm or just a tad higher
But, in neutral it's below a 100rpm's but that pass side is spinning faster & it locks up, then I guess as it slows, it disengages, then it locks again & repeats.
I still have a bearing noise & most all of the noise is coming from that diff but everything in there looked great & was tight, no noise when I was spinning it by hand to pull that drivers axle out.
Maybe the pass side bearing is shot, there is in/out play on the pass side but no play on the driver's side because that axle fits very tight in that bearing. It has me baffled
Rearends are cheap from the junkyard. Snag a whole rearend, clean it up and rebuild it if necessary. If you're lucky you'll find a pristine one at the junkyard. Then swap it in at your leisure. Worst case scenario, the original can go back in if something with the replacement axle went wrong. It's also an opportunity if you want to try a gear change.
i bought a 1989 4x4 s10 blazer rear end with that Eaton set up to go in my 55 chevy truck, and could get it to lock by spinning the free axle by hand only. Just by a quick snap, like a seat belt locks.
that's the intent. its not the amount of time, but the speed of the movement that causes lock. Once a wheel breaks tractions the rear end will lock, allowing power to transfer to the tire with traction. It's mainly an offroad and snow aid by design.
Great video! So if I do actually want to fully weld my Gov lock , do I just weld the other side or how would I go about it?
There are a lot of videos about that. If I were to fully weld this, I'd remove the small crass shafts and weld a plate between the spider gears. That's what I did on my 240sx years ago.
👍👍
Hey I love the video, very informative, but how well does it disengage now? My example question would be: highway speed, curve in said highway?
in a straight line it's disengaged. I would say, any turn less than about 30 degrees is not going to engage it. More than that it's speed dependent.
I came across your handle name while searching g body swaps and 8.8 diffs. I just got this type of diff carrier along with GM 8.6 10 bolt from 2000's trailblazer. I was wanting to know if this model is more drag strip drift type mod or can be used safely on street since this video is older you have had time to give accurate information about it. Thanks and new sub' now.
The best for drag is going to be a full locker. Drifting is best with a tight clutch type LSD. An open diff is best for tire longevity. This is at best a compromise. I will say, It's working pretty well for the low power level I have in my light car. A heavier car with more power might destroy this thing. It does work well on the street and is working for drifting for me. Just know, you might have to do this occasionally if you beat on it like I plan to.
Best video I found my far. Do you think it would be worth to do in a daily driver 2500hd duramax? I have a g80 as well. Currently doesn’t engage at all. Need to take the cover off and see what’s up
I'd look at clutches in the rearend first.
In an off-road application do you think allowing the engagement to occur at a lower rpm would lend itself to greater reliability? I already blew a g80 up in my Colorado and want to make this one last but still wheel it hard. Also what was the weight you applied to allow the engagement you desired?
I wish I had the patience to pull everything apart and weigh it before and after the mod. However. . . . I do not. It wasn't much weld though. As for use in an off-road application, I don't see why it wouldn't work. I beat the tar out of this rear end in my Vega and it is still going strong.
Yes, per my comment on this channel, the earlier engagment should decrease the impact due to slower rpm engagement and make tackling offroad obstacles easier.
Definitely doing this to the g80 4:10 I got for my gmc envoy from the junkyard today
How interesting
@@HarrisPropertyMaintenance yes it is Evan
How did that go?
@@FATMIKED5183 it actually works out pretty good. only welding the plate that unlocks it after 20mph
I’ve got this same rear end in a GMC Sierra. The pen holding the lock broke. Is there anyway I can fix without replacing.
Removing it from the car will open up your options when trying to remove the broken piece.
Do you have to weld shut the unlock paw? I didn't quite understand why you did that. Great video. I got a 14 bolt with this locker and I want to do the same thing
The “unlock over 20 mph” is controlled by that counterweight. Welding it means it’ll have the ability to lock and stay locked at any speed. You can lop it off or weld it down to make it ineffective.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades oh I see. But it will unlock when you let go of the throttle?
@@cyberdel it will unlock when wheel speeds are within 150rpm. I say that because, let’s say for instance; you are driving downhill on an unpaved surface and you hit the brakes but for whatever reason, one side fails to apply and you go rolling downhill with one brake locked up and the other freewheeling. Once the rpm difference, from one side to the other, is up above the locking threshold, it will lock up even without throttle applied. The g80 doesn’t care about throttle, just differential rpm.
Have done this to two friends gov lock and it works. But if all you're doing is burnouts mini spools are cheap
Could you possibly use weaker springs on the engagement side and stronger springs on the disengagement side?
Just an alternative idea.
That is possible. However, The welder was right there and I don't want the high speed unlock feature to work ever again. #permanentsolution
I like your idea, but see a possible issue with the locker not being able to dis-engauge. You'd be able to change when the disengagement arm activates by where you place the weights on the arm. A weight at the tip would cause the arm to activate sooner while a weight from the heel to the middle would delay the activation of the arm.
This thing is awesome to drive. my only regret is that i didn't do it sooner.
Will it unlock when your going into a curve at like 45 or 50 or is it still dragging a tire
I drives very normal on the road. It is a bit touchy in a parking lot though.
Good work 💯💯🦾🤘
What was that pressurized red spray bottle you were using? I assume it allows you to use kerosene or turpentine for pennies on the dollar and can be pressurized with shop air? I want!
I fill it with brake-clean I buy in 5 gallon drums off amazon. It is pressurized with shop air and very handy.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Do you have a name or brand for the sprayer?
Hey just wondering if this mod will help my situation
Ls swap s10 with a 7.6” 3.73 that will spin both tires on even surface for 300ft but the slightest try of a donut and it kicks the wheel out
If I do this paw weld mod will it stay posi 100% or stay posi longer then usual but still work somewhat normal will driving ?
With the power an LS can make, it might be a better use of your resources to upgrade to a stronger axle completely. maybe an 8.8.
Did you end up putting weld on both the little counter weights or just one?
just the forward lock weight.
Would I be able to just weld a price on the bigger weight without messing with the smaller one or no? My 86 m1009 has the g80
The small one needs to be heavier to engage. The big one unlocks.
Yes, it will lock up the same but will not unlock at higher speed.
I have a 14 bolt g80 with the locker is there any way to remove the locker system, mines stays locked once in a while and tire start dragging.
tack weld the flyweights in.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades@ tiem to repalce? If tire starts dragging? Stay in lockedd
Great video man how is the locker holding up?
All good. I'm making a video to show how awesome it's being right now!!
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Great!
You should try using earth magnets instead of welding extra metal !
I bet it would work!
I'm a bit leery of having anything un-secured inside the rearend. plus, a bead of weld is inexpensive.
What spray bottle is that? I could really use one of those. Thank You !!!
I just ordered it generically off of Amazon.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades was that water or solvent
Just a quick question, Does it still unlock? And how does it unlock? Thinking about doing this to my car but i don't want it permanently locked though
It does still unlock. What I did was lock out the 20mph release mechanism and alter the speed differential. It still unlocks when the wheel speed matches. Mine is normal in parking lots and driving around town.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades If driving down a road at highway speeds, and you hit a slick spot that causes one wheel to spin, will it lock up?
@@ajroyle1075 Yes
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades And then it unlocks when the wheel speeds match again and there is no load on the mechanism.
IE you have a tire on ice and a tire on pavement and the unit is already locked. It will stay locked when loaded while on the ice yet the wheel speeds are the same.
Once you get off the ice it will unlock once you take the load off, but not after you've finished a turn, if you're in one. Just turning will load the mechanism and keep it locked.
I've had to stop halfway through a U turn and back up just a hair to unlock it because there was a tiny patch of ice at the begining but pavement the rest of the way and the inside tire was scrubbing. This is normal.
Find a Milwaukee Hole Hawg
I think a detroit locker would be better suited for what you're trying to do.
So I can do this to my 2002 avalanche the has g80?
If it looks and works the same way then I don't see why not.
Do you have any more information or did you find information on how to do this somewhere/what exactly you did? I'm guessing that you added weight to whatever governor weights the unit has in it but I'd bet that 99% of even gear heads don't know what's in a G80 gov lock. Did you mention that it doesn't work right in reverse?
I went deep down the rabbit hole of what to do to make this rearend work the way I wanted. Installing any other commercially available options was just too expensive. This was just the simplest solution I could find and since it was essentially free, it's pretty low threat if it doesn't work. If I had to do it over again, I would not add weight to the reverse flyweight. There is no reason to have it catch earlier in reverse.
In honesty the reason these G80s grenade is because the lockup at high rpm difference produces more impact on the assembly. So if they had just done this from factory it would be a more effective locker, and the chance of it grenading would be far less. I think the 20 mph thing is fine actually should be tuned to like 40 mph. Seems like someone or eaton should make different weighted parts so they can be swapped to a users desire.
honestly could be a very possible replacement to an E locker with tunablility.
As someone mentioned above, it's possible they did this so that it will never lock up if only one tire goes through a low traction surface at high speed (black ice, sand ect). If that happens without the 20mph lockout, it's possible it would do a lot of damage trying to lock up outta nowhere
@@antuanperez426 whatever the reason is they did that and I think you're definitely on to something it proves that they should not do this type of locker on street vehicles . It should be a locker where you select to lock it up for off-road purposes just like you select four-wheel drive to lock up when you're going to go off-road or just like you select your low range to go off-road these should be as simple as that and I'll say it this way Ford does it right in that case
@@kartboarder22g17 You got that right. Odd choice by GM, as usual
@@antuanperez426 I'll add, I believe the Colorado ZR2 offroad version now has selectable locker, so they have learned. I think the cost of this G80 being fully contained within the pumpkin and fully mechanical, is really a cost cutting method of telling the customer they get a locker.... They aren't necessarily lying, just it should be well advertised that people like us going the extra mile tell it on the mountain that these things are not as good as they may seem. So GM changes course. They have already done this with some of their AWD vehicles adopting an AWD system that is far better than what they have always sold and what they sell in their lesser vehicles today. Eventually GM will start to catch on
8:33 sounds like a squeeling belt!🤣
Great video! I have seen countless videos of idiots complaining about how bad they are. I loved my 79 k5 with cucv swapped differentials and the "gov locker"
So what would happen if you took the governor out completely??
I honestly have no idea. Best case, it would act like an open diff. worst case, it would not work or lock up while driving because some piece wasn't held in securely.
Does it have 373 gears as stock?
3.42 gears
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades@ 3:42 💪🏻👍
What about balance, wont this vibrate apart?
Hasn't yet.
How’s it holding up? Still going ?
Still in the car
Got same rear ended set up in my 92 Sierra c1500 honestly find that set up not worth a F*** on a sheet of ice tryed Forward & backwards with the brakes to lock it sitting on ice won’t lock but try in snow locks right up if I hit hard enough
Agree, i used one of the on a 84 c10, having issues to unlocking,,
So hows the road manners after this mod
It drives fine. It’s my street manners that are rough.
is the G80 supposed to make a clunk noise when it engages?
Supposed to or not, it does. It’s because of the violent lock-up.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Thanks. There has been a few times when I have heard / felt it engage and I let off the gas because I thought something broke. This is my first locker.
@@atxjax1 did you mod it like I did this one?
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades No. I am just trying to find out info in general since this is my first time owning a G80. I did do a fresh fluid change with SuperTech Synthetic 75W-90
So is it now allways locked?
Negative. Only locks when one is slipping.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades roger. I have g80 in my volvo 740 its bit different maybe. I think if i grind the counter weight would it work. I dont wanna weld my diff because yearly inspection🤔
Does this affect everyday driving, I’m sorry I know this is a stupid question
It's a great question. When I'm cruising I don't notice anything. Maneuvering in the streets or in a parking lot, there might be the occasional lockup and the inside tire chatters but it's rare. Going in or out of a parking spot there is a high likelihood of the rearend engaging. It's not perfect, but it is predictable.
Dude I never even saw you response and I was rewatching this video and saw this comment and was like oh shit I was wondering the same thing and like it took me a good 5 mins to realize it was me who asked it , but thank you so much dude I plan on doing this in my 97 tahoe I’m building to be a drift suv ! Thank you for your knowledge
That made my laugh 😂😂😂kids kids kids
How has it held up this far, anything you'd do differently? Thanks
I love it. Wouldn't change a thing.
Wouldn’t weakening the governor spring be easier and safer than welding? Likewise, put more tension on the lockout governor spring and you’ll get lockup above 20 mph.
It lacks the same tune-ability. Let’s say I made the lockup too aggressive. . . It’s a lot harder to re-harden the spring but I can ground off a bit of weld on a weight.
Interesting. Hadn’t thought of that.@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades
If Eaton wanted to help, they’d offer various springs.@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades
With the axles that these cars have if you weld the diff it will be impossible to remove the axles
yes, You just have to think about how the axles come out carefully, and not weld the wrong spots.
I build rear ends for racing and this G80 unit lever piece he is welding is basically a fulcrum lever to lock spider gears and cluthces to create posi effect. The piece welded is on a small rod with circlip holding on and doesn't block axle removal.
@@djrowe10 He is talking about welding the dif locking the spiders together...Not talking about welding the lockout feature to keep it from working...
How much horse power are you making
Probably not much. I am curious so I might have to get it dynoed. It's probably 250hp or so.
So when does it disengage?
when you let off the throttle basically.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades is there any downsides to this ?
@@DougL12 Yes! The overwhelming desire to absolutely shred tires doing burnouts and drifting!
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades LMFAO 🤣
I’ve never had any complaints about how fast it engages but that release has screwed me up many times.
That is a common complaint. I just augmented the lock-up speed so it wasn't so harsh on the diff in my application. It's working pretty well so far.
Good point, same here. I’ve just tried to drive mine forward and back, etc trying to break it loose. Is there any procedure to get it unstuck that you know of?
@@jimarmbrester1721 It should not remain locked. once you have a wheel speed differential that is less than 100rpm or the axle speed is over about 20 mph, the rearend should unlock. Also, when you come to a stop the flyweights should come back in and unlock. If not, there may be a problem with your diff.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades I’ve only had a couple times during the ownership of my GMC Canyon that it’s happened, but it’s always unlocked pretty soon after. Yesterday was one of those times. Locked in the snow pulling out of a parking space over a small hill of snow, then when I made a 90 degree turn on dry asphalt, I could feel that it was locked. It stayed locked as I turned to back into a different parking spot. I drove forward and back a couple times, then it was fine. It locks pretty frequently driving in snow, ice, mud, etc. I enjoy getting sideways without being rough on the truck. Considering the hundreds of times it has locked, and only briefly failed to unlock immediately, I think it’s not a big issue. I just wasn’t sure if there was a recommended way to get it to unlock if/when it happened again. I appreciate the reply. Thanks
You are shooting at the wrong target, the speeds are controlled by the spring pressure. If you increase the spring rate on the big weight and decrease the spring pressure on the small locking device, I think you would accomplish your goal. I believe there is a conventional 7.5" posi out there also. OEM somewhere in the past. And a cone type in place of clutch packs also OEM.
I considered the spring rate approach. However, messing with spring rates is not easier than adding a couple tacks of weld.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades I cannot argue with that.
Lighten the weights?
this is ironic mine will only cook one wheel from a dead stop but will spin both from a 40 roll
That is weird. Maybe it's not working properly. . . .
😂 whoops
A lot of chatter but I had a stock g80 that was a beast.
Why would you borrow someone's drill if you thought you were gonna trash it 😂
He was there with me and gave me one he didn't care about. I also bought him a replacement. Thise things are better kept behind the scenes though.
Just tack the flyweights together, open diff.
Used car possi. 88 and older Camaro, or any of the "G" bodit
The G body rearends are made of glass as well, and they are too wide. I have a GBody on the channel. I swapped that rear out for a foxbody mustang 8.8. The older Camaros had a torque arm rear which is not compatible with the early 4 link vegas.
id like to buld a vega with a 700r4
A 200r would be a much better option. All the same benefits in a lighter smaller package.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades i had a GMC 200 in one of my 82 TA it run good i wish i could find one agan
Quick fix. I welded mine and it eats tires
I had a 240sx years ago with a welded diff. I didn't want that for this car.
GM says 120 rpm differential speed.
Eaton says 100rpm.
www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/mlocker/PCT_2196713
A g80 in a 4door s10 blazer is pretty fragile huh? Lil 7.5 10 bolt 🤣
I swear 100% on a Lincoln Locked diff once you drive with a locked diff you wont settle for less G80 and others are a great choice also. Sir cool video Thumbs up, but trim that scroungy ass beard Sir ahaa haaa haaa haa..........
Don't hate the freedom beard. After 10 years active duty, this face will never see a razor again.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Naw just humor Im retired Army also.
a man's car always finds a way to knock him down a peg. be it dumping oil down the strip or almost perfectly executing a drift.
Rule #1 never shit where you lie your head down to sleep, you could pick a better spot for your burnouts besides your own neighborhood
My neighbors are all gear heads.
A few months that will explode. Lol
Its been getting the absolute crap kicked out of it for more than a year now.
It does not I repeat not have a clutch
Weird. Eaton, the manufacturer, seems to think it does have a clutch. Their brochure call it a "self engaging clutch system." They believe they have a clutch so much it's in all the GM, Volvo, and BMW service manuals labeled as a clutch.
chrome-www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/differentials-traction-control/mlocker/eaton-mlocker-brochure-2009-en.pdf
Here is a website that shows both the Illustrated parts breakdown, item 10, and the pictures of a guy replacing the clutch assembly.
offroadtb.com/rear-axle-g80-differential-rebuild/
I'll message Eaton immediately to let them know about your discovery.
Clutch style is 10x better
Detroit Truetrack is by far the best way to go. No noise, nothing to wear out and super smooth engagement. They used to be a bit on the weak side for drag racing but many have gone deep into the 8s with them on big tires with no issue.
@@littleherms3285 great point. Gov locks are junk.
@@rolltide9547 and how, I've broken 3 of them over the years with barely 300whp. It's a miracle I haven't broken the factory one in my 2011 Silverado yet.
Remove the gov lock and buy a different brand. These do not hold up to abuse.
It's just money right? Mine is still rockin' after years of abuse.
What the easier way to delete the govlocker, without removing it