The Strength You Need to Climb the Hardest Grades (9C Test)
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- This week we are seeing how strong Louis ACTUALLY is with the 9c Strength Test created by Stian Christopherson and Martin Mobraten with the points system below!
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Team:
Louis Parkinson - / captaincutloose
Sam Douglas-Jones - / samdj_
Edit by Solomon Stott - / solomon.films
Filmed at Vauxwall West Climbing Centre in London, U.K.
00:00 Intro
02:45 Max Pull Ups
06:20 Max Finger Strength
10:36 Core Strength
11:50 Hang from Bar
13:22 Outro
Points:
40=9c // 39=9b+ // 38=9b // 37=9b // 36=9a+ // 35=9a+ // 34=9a // 33=9a // 32=8c+ // 31=8c+ // 30=8c // 29=8c // 28=8b+ // 27=8b+ // 26=8b // 25=8b // 24=8a+ // 23=8a+ // 22=8a // 21=8a // 20=7c+ // 19=7c+ // 18=7c // 17=7c // 16=7b+ // 15=7b+ // 14=7b // 13=7b // 12=7a+ // 11=7a+ // 10=7a // 9=7a // 8=6c+ // 7=6c+ // 6=6c // 5=6c // 4=6b // 3=6b // 2=6a // 1=6a //
Exercise 1/4: Max pull-up (one rep)
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 2/4: Max finger strength; Approximately 20 mm crimp for 5 seconds
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 3/4: Core strength
1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
7 Points = 5 sec front lever
8 Points = 10 sec front lever
9 Points = 20 sec front lever
10 Points = 30 sec front lever
Exercise 4/4: Hang from bar
1 Point = 30 sec
2 Points = 1 min
3 Points = 1,5 min
4 Points = 2 min
5 Points = 2,5 min
6 Points = 3 min
7 Points = 3,5 min
8 Points = 4 min
9 Points = 5 min
10 Points = 6 min
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/ @catalystclimbing - Розваги
Just remember, Adam Ondra can’t even do a front lever. So if you score terribly on this test it is no way a determining factor in your ability to chase high grades. And the same can be said in reverse. No matter how wel you do on the test it won’t make up for terrible flexibility, route reading, and other factors that the test can’t analyze
This is an interesting part of Silence. Ondra got around doing a front lever by essentially doing a human flag on the upsidedown bit. There are ways around it. On Silence in particular, the majority of his weight was on his foot once he got into position. In other routes on overhang, it might not be possible.
Jonny Dawes is a bang average climber according to these tests.
@@matemindak384 the whole test is stupid not just the front lever part lol
People are really missing the "STRENGTH" component in this. This test was, more of a fun than an entirely serious and scientific, way of testing if you have the STRENGTH needed to climb certain grades.
So, by that theory, Louis is STRONG enough to climb a 9a sport. I fully agree, I don't doubt he'd have any issues in the power department, especially as a boulderer. Hell, I reckon he'd flash 8a-8b sport even without extra endurance draining, just from his climbing style and power.
As someone who can't do a front lever and is particularly aware of my weaknesses, front lever is absolutely indicative in some ways how strong your lats, shoulders, abs, and hip flexors are. All of these are particularly weak for me. It may not be completely indicative of climbing ability, but not being able to hold somewhat flat for a long time is indicative of weaknesses that you should fix and see benefits from. I've already worked on this for 2 weeks and I've already started climbing up a grade from V3 to V4. Getting my legs up onto overhang holds has gotten easier, and keeping my hips into the wall without getting so exhausted has also gotten easier. (btw Adam ondra can't do a strictly level front lever but he can hold almost level for a long time)
Louis please contact Storror to collab with them! They've been doing a bit of it outside, and you would be the perfect person to guide them around a gym, especially with your dynamic style which will suit them.
seconding this, it'd be an incredible collab!
the energy from both channels would be good together too!
Yes, I've been asking Storror to collab with Louis too, would be a brilliant video! Especially now that they need to beat the Bobats the next time they go buildering, they could use some technique drills!
Agreed! What a fun colab
This would be my favorite UA-cam video ever made! Please someone make this happen!
now we just need ink's 9C strength test!
Ink has nothing to prove, he's a cat!
Important note about the 9C test, the maximum grade assumes PERFECT technique.
So 100% max effort & zero wasted energy ~= the assigned grade.
Yes, or in other words the test only shows you if you have the physical strength required for those grades. And it at least suggests that if you're not actually reaching those grades, the solution is improving technique, and not adding more strength.
63kg + 60kg pull up is insane and puts into perspective how weak I am 😅
*how strong Louis is! Youre not weak (:
Remember that Will Bosi just about pulled 170% bw shortly after doing bourden of dreams...
Louis is so goofy and entertaining! Thanks for all the great content!
Great video Louis! Love your content.
thank you for sharing that you had a cold for a week :) i am at the exact same point and need motivation to get going again now :)
Let's see some 8c+ route attempts!
Well done Louis!
This test is cool, but it heavily favor's gym-bro calisthenics people like myself. So I have been climbing for about 8 years but have done like 25 years of weight and calisthenics training, so my physical strength far outclasses my actual climbing ability. I scored a 28, or an 8b+ on this test, which in our American terms is a 5.14a, but I have never climbed harder than a 7c, or 5.12c, which is a huuuuge difference.
Now I know the test technically just estimates what your maximum potential is according to your physical limits, which may be slightly more accurate if you have 'perfect' climbing form (as if that is really definable). It is a fun test none-the-less.
Louis can literally do a pullup pulling him and my body weight at the same time and I can't even do a bodyweight pullup😂
The pull up pass criteria should change. I would use chest to bar as the benchmark (mostly engaging your lats) instead of chin over bar (engaging shoulders/uneven pulling).
crazy that lois can pullup that much weight after a week of being sick! such a beast😄
Great you guys shot another video years after part 1, great update
7:02 THATS SO SMART WHY HAVENT I THOUGHT OF THAT
Literally gonna start doing it 😂
Well done on the gains! Do you feel like they have translated to the wall?
I love how Louis’ definition of rested is ‘I’ve been ill and haven’t trained for a week’
Wow really impressive lever! Better form than them all.
well done on the new pb! Why not come and compete in the Tor over in MK's Big Rock if your around, you know you love to crush new gyms!
Cool video, but isn't the Hangboard test supposed to be done on Half-crimp? Thanks again for the content!
So strong! But I'd love to see more of Ink and his climbing progress.
And how’s the camera man’s climbing profession too??
What trousers are you wearing? They look really cool.
Is that a grunge chalk bag ? Own one myself and love it
Would love to see you do a video with Magnus
I would love a video of Louis lead climbing…
Hi Louis, how much could you half crimp block pull off the ground please?
For me I found that this is quite accurate to my strength for dynos but for static climbs my strength is actually quite a bit higher in climbing
According to the scores I should be doing 7b. I did 7a+ once but anything 7a or better is still very hard for me.
Very random question, but how tall are you Louis?
wasnt the 9c test created by magnus?
Not sure how to interpret my test results. My max route is 7b, on vert.
I got 16pts, so 7b+. So it would suggest I am a bad climber, in the sense that I can't optimise my physical strengths.
But where it gets interesting is that I could only do bodyweight on the 20mm. Given that all my proj are crimpy, that would suggest I m climbing stronger than what my fingers should allow.
So, am I shit or just weak? 😂
Are you sure about edge you hanging on? Cause my 1000 beastmaker low side edges have 15mm😅
Or you desided to make test harder?
The best predictor of performance is performance itself... :) Has the hardest grade you can climb gone up since the last series of tests, and does that grade equate with the prediction from the tests?
Great effort!
The front lever is an impressive skill...but is more of a lat than a core exercise.
You can't do a front lever without a strong core though, but yeah it works a bunch of muscles
That's the emptiest I've seen Vauxwall.
Funny thing the small thumbnail made me do a double take, it looked like Louis had water coming out his pants at first
great video as always!
Nice one
but to be honest 4:14 is not a proper pull up, eh? ;)
Why do you have Ghisolfi with a "9a+" in the thumbnail? The guy climbed Bibliographie...
Those grades are based on their results of the 9C strength test…
@@CatalystClimbing Ah ok. Nevermind me.
Emil crushed Louis in the previous video where they climbed together and yet scores much worse in these metrics than him.
Keep in mind that Louis is 5"XX, if you're taller than 6"you might have a stronger core than him but you're loooong legs will make it muuuuuuuuch harder for you to front lever. Adam Ondra can't do a front lever.
fınger strength part isnt that half crimp or any type of hanging is ok ?
i think its a 20mm edge for 5 secs
20 mm
but he is half crimping?
@@Lumi_nance no he isnt some fingers bend
@@Oguzhandogada yes, thats why it is called (half)crimp, otherwise it would be open hand
Why are your weights so ridiculously large for their weight?
alright alright I'm happy with that but errrghhhh
I just scored 19 points and I barely climb 6c 😭😭
Louis kinda reminds me of W2S😅
8b+ in reality 7b sport v10 boulder lol
bro can pull as much as me while being 30kg lighter lmao
STORROR ARMY
This man is 33?
for the pull ups. I totally disagree with you. You may be able to lift (almost) 50K and more but only once. And using your lower body to attach all the weight is not right, imagine the stress you put on the middle of your body, the spine and all. A person may have strong legs and a strong upper body but if the middle is injured somehow, you are useless. Why not using a weighted vest, let say 25K and do 20 pull up. Don’t you think this will classify for a 9C test.
First 😂
Voldemort!
Voldemort!