NEVER USE HIGHER AMP BREAKER FOR CABLE THAT CAN NOT HANDLE THE LOAD. Braerks are meant to cut power before the cable melts. You put a 50 amp break on a cable that does not have the proper gauge. You now have the possibility of a fire.
Exactly, this is electrical 101, please pin this comment and make an edit/correction to the video please. It's one thing to put your life in danger, completely different if a bunch of people follow this as a go-by for their installation.
Correct. When the store was out of 40A double pole breakers, he needed to temporarily use a 30A or 20A breaker, not 50A. It reminds me of when I replaced a fuse in a 1972 Subaru with a paper clip, around 1978. As a 21 year old, my reaction time was quick enough to let go of it before it could embed molten metal into my fingers. Luckily, it melted so quickly that it didn't have time melt or set on fire the car wiring, which it could have.
This low cost high frequency inverter doesn't even have an output transformer. Without an iron core, copper wound transformer to provide galvanic isolation, they typically only last 2-3 years. No thanks!
well if that's the case that they only last 2-3 years. it will be under warranty since it comes with 5 year warranty. wich makes me wonder if your comment has any truth to it.
@@prepsolar787 Search Google or UA-cam for the term EG4 6500EX fail if you have doubts about what I'm saying. Insofar as the 5 year warranty is concerned, why would you want to go to all the trouble of taking your inverter off the wall and pay to ship it back at year 2-3 to have it repaired under warranty? I know this to be true because I've been in the inverter repair business for over 24 years. High frequency, transformerless inverters simply don't last.
@@diggerbrass I'm the source. I have been in the inverter repair industry for over 24 years and have repaired thousands of inverters both high frequency and low frequency. 8 out of every 10 inverters that we provide repair quotes for are high frequency inverters.
It's the most popular because of those breakers and the simplicity of setup. Blue Brand and competitors better be taking notes. I'm about to pull the trigger on an all EG4 system because of just how stupidly easy it all is.
Thanks for the detailed video - I am considering getting one of these for the reason you said - to run a mini split. Most of the mini splits that I am looking at need 240v - for the high efficiency heating models.
Quick question, do you have two pv arrays on the input? And if so are they exactly the same size and brand of panel? In the manual it says you have to use the same size and brand. I’m not sure why that would matter. I was going to put in second array but I don’t have the room to make same size array that I already have
I got my EG4 system back in last August. It came with the trouble plagued 6500EXs. I traded them in for two 6000XPs. I got used to the lights flickering but they made the UPS on my computer and RV system click so much I had to remove those. That and the 6500EXs have to be phased to get 240v. If one went out I would not be able to run my deep well pump. The 6000XPs each make 240v and with two paralleled they can support each other and keep voltage fluctuations control ed.
Me too on the 6500 ex got two just ordered the 6000 x. Just makes me angry that I had to spend another crapload of money because their design blew. Cest la vie though.
If I want to connect 24kw of solar, I will need 3 of these units? Or is there a convenient way to add just mppts? My final system should have 36kw of solar but I don’t need more than 6kw of inverter output
If you don't need extra inverter power then personally i would use this system with 2x 4kw of solar. Then i would get a separate MPPT charge controller and connect the rest of the solar to it. such as the victron signaturesolar.com/victron-smartsolar-mppt-rs-450-200-tr/?ref=bkpkbxde If you have that much solar, and also need more inverter power. I would just get the 18kpv or two of them. signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kpv-hybrid-inverter-all-in-one-solar-inverter-eg4-18kpv-12lv/?ref=bkpkbxde
@@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk If you want to account for everything, you'd need monitoring on the other MPPT controller(s) and aggregate the numbers yourself. Or there are other ways to approximate it. For instance, say you have 6 equal arrays with 2 going to the 6000XP and 4 going elsewhere but eventually to the same battery bank. Just swap around which pair of arrays are on the 6000XP to check how nearly identical their input is over the course of a day/week/month/whatever to see if you have a shading/orientation/performance difference or not. Maybe even swap around different combos to make up your 3 most equal pairs. Then just monitor the one pair and multiply by 3. ;-) You can also do a sanity check on it by monitoring input energy vs output energy. You can find the ratio without the extra input, then assume the ratio remains the same. I guess it all comes down to whether you just want the system to work well enough to meet your needs (including spotting future problems) or whether you want to account for every kWh in and out accurately without approximating anything via making sound engineering assumptions. Personally, I'd be fine with just swapping PV cables to monitor different pairs of identical arrays, and then if needed, using that data to account for different arrays having different performance relative to each other, due to shading by time/season/whatever.
Thanks for this. Good review. I just installed two in parallel with 40kWh LiTime battery bank and 8kW array. I use it to power a critical loads panel to reduce PG&E cost (currently $0.41/kWh). I also have some GroWatts powering my well pump, but these inverters are working like champs. New subscriber.
a suggestion to use a plastic pen as a pointer and not a screwdriver. fumbling the screwdriver can get nasty. nice video and good work and review thanks
I have been generating my own power for the last few years with a traditional style system. Components fail and mistakes happen. Whats the game plan when a function of that all in one fails? Oh and will the additional inverter be compatible with the older one in the future?
I think you want an earth ground rod connected only to wherever you bond ground and neutral. If you go putting ground rods to other locations, you can create currents and voltages through the bare ground wire under normal operation. There should only be current in it when there is a short or other ground fault, not during normal operation. You want all the difference in current between the two legs, to return via the neutral. For a pure 240V load, the leg currents are equal, so no neutral is required, and again, nothing in the ground wire unless you have current leaking/shorting to it.
QUESTION: If I have the pv power on , but the Unit is not on cuze no load need. only use it for Ev charge. Would it work with just pv input to charge battery? or the whole unit Must be on in order for the solar to charge the battery? my EV not charge daily. (currently have EG4 6500 one blown not sure what wrong. still under contact with SigS for solution. my 6500 EX less than 2 years old.... thanks for reply
the AC output does not need to be on to charge the battery, but the unit does need to be on for the PV charging system to work. They are two different switches
Do you have to run eg4 server rack batteries with this inverter or can I use 4 CHINS LiFePO4 Battery 12V 280AH Lithium Battery - Built-in 200A BMS in series to get 48v
If those batteries support being in parallel configuration, they can run the inverter. Whether or not that they will get you the rated specs due to the BMS / Cell perfromance that's a different story. Either way if you have to use 'USE' settings which are user input and configure the battery parameters manually, ,bc you don't have battery communcations
Is it possible that when my batteries are filled up. I can stop using the battery power, and just switch over to the grid or just PV power, and preserve my battery power for when i need it?
Yeah 50 amp is good if you’re going to do ac bypass or generator boost. But in my application where I would never come across that I would really never exceed 25A (6000/240) for continuous load
That bond needs to be done in your main service panel, but that’s only if you’re using it to power things in your house or else you could create a very dangerous situation with Power going to ground
We run our grid at 230/400V here in the Netherlands. Our connection does 27kW and when solar is going we can charge cars/batteries with 50kW. That's some serious juice.
Yes they have quality equipment. I have used multipluses and currently have smaller charge controller and a 1200va phoenix inverter as a portable power source. For home use in the USA they are a pain If a person needs to meet code though. Not to mention some of their pc software is not up to modern UI standards. In the US parts need UL listing. Then finding listed bus bars, fusses, disconnects .........etc... This makes units like this appealing. If Victron built an all in one like the eg4 units but with their gear and got it listed they would get my attention.
I’m using eg4 lifepower4 and solution batteries. signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=bkpkbxde And aolithium.com/products/51-2v-100ah-server-rack-lithium-lifepo4-battery
Watch "6000xp is not UL9540 certified. YOU CANNOT LEGALLY install in the US along with solar panels" on UA-cam to learn why you might want to reconsider buying this inverter.
What are you talking about? I have this exact inverter paired with the EG4 wall mount battery connected to 3200watts of Solar. Maybe you need to clarify your comment. I “think” you mean it can’t be on grid due to the lack of UL rating. Which is why it’s an off grid system… But it’s Completely legal, at least in VA.
If installing in Maricopa County (Phoenix area) with solar panels the full system being installed requires permits even though it will not be "tied" to the grid. The permits will require everything to meet NEC and must have UL9540 certification. The EG4 wall mount battery system that can be bought with the EG4 6000XP in a nice package is 9540 certified BUT not the EG4 6000XP! I have read online that the same issue exists in California. So no 9540 certification, no pass with permits.
This low cost transformerless inverter is OK for wimpy low surge loads, but it can't start a 6,000 Watt inductive load like a 6kW water pump or a 6kW AC unit.
@@GetReal77 Dream on fool. I've repeatedly asked SS and their affiliate advertisers to produce a video showing this low surge inverter starting a 6kW inductive load and so far, no show. And you know why? Because it can't. LOL! 🤣
@@solarcharging9743 You are mistaken, an XP 6000 at full throttle will generate a black hole and destroy the entire planet. I wanted 2 Victron 5000's but they are not UL listed, then I was going to get a Schnieder 6848 but hear customer support is really lacking so I ended up with a EGboy. What about a SMA 6048 US or what do you recommend? No a HF will not do near what a good LF will do but the latest EG4 stuff is getting good reviews for what it is...
The high frequency, 6000XP is not UL9540 certified. YOU CANNOT LEGALLY install this inverter in the US with solar panels, so you'll never get it permitted.
@@Bigshow857 I thought it was certified. But all it means if it's not is that you can't get it permitted for on grid installation. Most people use it separately from grid/off grid
This inverter is for off grid and is one of the best out their for that purpose.. I run an lv 6548 and it has been great but will be switching to this for the 240 volts
NEVER USE HIGHER AMP BREAKER FOR CABLE THAT CAN NOT HANDLE THE LOAD. Braerks are meant to cut power before the cable melts. You put a 50 amp break on a cable that does not have the proper gauge. You now have the possibility of a fire.
Exactly, this is electrical 101, please pin this comment and make an edit/correction to the video please. It's one thing to put your life in danger, completely different if a bunch of people follow this as a go-by for their installation.
Correct. When the store was out of 40A double pole breakers, he needed to temporarily use a 30A or 20A breaker, not 50A. It reminds me of when I replaced a fuse in a 1972 Subaru with a paper clip, around 1978. As a 21 year old, my reaction time was quick enough to let go of it before it could embed molten metal into my fingers. Luckily, it melted so quickly that it didn't have time melt or set on fire the car wiring, which it could have.
This low cost high frequency inverter doesn't even have an output transformer. Without an iron core, copper wound transformer to provide galvanic isolation, they typically only last 2-3 years. No thanks!
Could you backup your claim by citing your source?
well if that's the case that they only last 2-3 years. it will be under warranty since it comes with 5 year warranty. wich makes me wonder if your comment has any truth to it.
Not this bot douche again...🙄
@@prepsolar787 Search Google or UA-cam for the term EG4 6500EX fail if you have doubts about what I'm saying. Insofar as the 5 year warranty is concerned, why would you want to go to all the trouble of taking your inverter off the wall and pay to ship it back at year 2-3 to have it repaired under warranty? I know this to be true because I've been in the inverter repair business for over 24 years. High frequency, transformerless inverters simply don't last.
@@diggerbrass I'm the source. I have been in the inverter repair industry for over 24 years and have repaired thousands of inverters both high frequency and low frequency. 8 out of every 10 inverters that we provide repair quotes for are high frequency inverters.
It's the most popular because of those breakers and the simplicity of setup. Blue Brand and competitors better be taking notes. I'm about to pull the trigger on an all EG4 system because of just how stupidly easy it all is.
agreed
Thanks for the detailed video - I am considering getting one of these for the reason you said - to run a mini split. Most of the mini splits that I am looking at need 240v - for the high efficiency heating models.
You may want to mask over your wifi dongle serial and pin since that allows people to add your device to their control website...
Thanks for the tip
Shhhhhhh
@@The_Defiant_One LOL. "Nothing to see here, move along!"
True. I was kinda surprised at how Signature Solar was able to log in and see my 6000XP.
How many solar panels and batteries are you running with your setup and what size panels and output. Great video!! Thanks!
Quick question, do you have two pv arrays on the input? And if so are they exactly the same size and brand of panel? In the manual it says you have to use the same size and brand. I’m not sure why that would matter. I was going to put in second array but I don’t have the room to make same size array that I already have
I got my EG4 system back in last August. It came with the trouble plagued 6500EXs. I traded them in for two 6000XPs. I got used to the lights flickering but they made the UPS on my computer and RV system click so much I had to remove those. That and the 6500EXs have to be phased to get 240v. If one went out I would not be able to run my deep well pump. The 6000XPs each make 240v and with two paralleled they can support each other and keep voltage fluctuations control ed.
Me too on the 6500 ex got two just ordered the 6000 x. Just makes me angry that I had to spend another crapload of money because their design blew. Cest la vie though.
Why don't you show us how much you saved? Last year July bill to this year July bill?
In the sub panel, can i run a 240 load out (well pump) along with a couple 120 circuits?
yes
If I want to connect 24kw of solar, I will need 3 of these units? Or is there a convenient way to add just mppts? My final system should have 36kw of solar but I don’t need more than 6kw of inverter output
If you don't need extra inverter power then personally i would use this system with 2x 4kw of solar.
Then i would get a separate MPPT charge controller and connect the rest of the solar to it.
such as the victron signaturesolar.com/victron-smartsolar-mppt-rs-450-200-tr/?ref=bkpkbxde
If you have that much solar, and also need more inverter power. I would just get the 18kpv or two of them.
signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kpv-hybrid-inverter-all-in-one-solar-inverter-eg4-18kpv-12lv/?ref=bkpkbxde
@@tgbatg how would you handle the system monitoring? Battery capacity and solar input would not show up at the inverter.
@@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk If you want to account for everything, you'd need monitoring on the other MPPT controller(s) and aggregate the numbers yourself. Or there are other ways to approximate it. For instance, say you have 6 equal arrays with 2 going to the 6000XP and 4 going elsewhere but eventually to the same battery bank. Just swap around which pair of arrays are on the 6000XP to check how nearly identical their input is over the course of a day/week/month/whatever to see if you have a shading/orientation/performance difference or not. Maybe even swap around different combos to make up your 3 most equal pairs. Then just monitor the one pair and multiply by 3. ;-) You can also do a sanity check on it by monitoring input energy vs output energy. You can find the ratio without the extra input, then assume the ratio remains the same. I guess it all comes down to whether you just want the system to work well enough to meet your needs (including spotting future problems) or whether you want to account for every kWh in and out accurately without approximating anything via making sound engineering assumptions.
Personally, I'd be fine with just swapping PV cables to monitor different pairs of identical arrays, and then if needed, using that data to account for different arrays having different performance relative to each other, due to shading by time/season/whatever.
Thanks for this. Good review. I just installed two in parallel with 40kWh LiTime battery bank and 8kW array. I use it to power a critical loads panel to reduce PG&E cost (currently $0.41/kWh). I also have some GroWatts powering my well pump, but these inverters are working like champs. New subscriber.
Thanks, and welcome aboard
WTF it’s 12c per KWH in Texas. Glad I don’t live in CA anymore.
@@Kenriko It's .68 per KWH on my plan in SoCal from 4 PM to 9 PM from June 1st till the end of Summer. It's BS I tell ya.
👍
a suggestion to use a plastic pen as a pointer and not a screwdriver. fumbling the screwdriver can get nasty.
nice video and good work and review thanks
Thanks for the tip!
I have been generating my own power for the last few years with a traditional style system. Components fail and mistakes happen. Whats the game plan when a function of that all in one fails? Oh and will the additional inverter be compatible with the older one in the future?
Why didn't you ground the subpanel to Rod?
I think you want an earth ground rod connected only to wherever you bond ground and neutral. If you go putting ground rods to other locations, you can create currents and voltages through the bare ground wire under normal operation. There should only be current in it when there is a short or other ground fault, not during normal operation. You want all the difference in current between the two legs, to return via the neutral. For a pure 240V load, the leg currents are equal, so no neutral is required, and again, nothing in the ground wire unless you have current leaking/shorting to it.
QUESTION: If I have the pv power on , but the Unit is not on cuze no load need. only use it for Ev charge. Would it work with just pv input to charge battery? or the whole unit Must be on in order for the solar to charge the battery? my EV not charge daily. (currently have EG4 6500 one blown not sure what wrong. still under contact with SigS for solution. my 6500 EX less than 2 years old.... thanks for reply
the AC output does not need to be on to charge the battery, but the unit does need to be on for the PV charging system to work. They are two different switches
Do you have to run eg4 server rack batteries with this inverter or can I use 4 CHINS LiFePO4 Battery 12V 280AH Lithium Battery - Built-in 200A BMS in series to get 48v
If those batteries support being in parallel configuration, they can run the inverter. Whether or not that they will get you the rated specs due to the BMS / Cell perfromance that's a different story.
Either way if you have to use 'USE' settings which are user input and configure the battery parameters manually, ,bc you don't have battery communcations
Nice video. I am currently using LV6548 to power 110 but need 230v to run 2hp well pump. This looks like a good solution for $1400.
Is it possible that when my batteries are filled up. I can stop using the battery power, and just switch over to the grid or just PV power, and preserve my battery power for when i need it?
Very thorough install and explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
That was very helpful. Great explanations and helped me make my decision. 5 of 5 stars
It was my understanding that the breaker size for the inverter feed into the panel was 50 amps?
Yeah 50 amp is good if you’re going to do ac bypass or generator boost. But in my application where I would never come across that I would really never exceed 25A (6000/240) for continuous load
As long as you use 6g wire 50 is good. 40 would be better for 8g wire
That bond needs to be done in your main service panel, but that’s only if you’re using it to power things in your house or else you could create a very dangerous situation with Power going to ground
I’ll probably put it back in the main panel when rebuilding the system.
Can it do ac input 240v single phase?
How long will this inverter last?
At least the length of the warranty…
Toche!@@tgbatg
How many batteries are u using ??
Great video. New sub. thank you --- been looking at the EG4 6000 XP as I grow my solar array
Welcome aboard!
What size are the grommets
❤video
My victron inverter runs any load problemless.
It has a proper transformer and AC filter to store that few joules our loads take when kicking in.
We run our grid at 230/400V here in the Netherlands.
Our connection does 27kW and when solar is going we can charge cars/batteries with 50kW. That's some serious juice.
Yeah Victron makes good stuff.
Yes they have quality equipment. I have used multipluses and currently have smaller charge controller and a 1200va phoenix inverter as a portable power source.
For home use in the USA they are a pain If a person needs to meet code though. Not to mention some of their pc software is not up to modern UI standards.
In the US parts need UL listing. Then finding listed bus bars, fusses, disconnects .........etc... This makes units like this appealing. If Victron built an all in one like the eg4 units but with their gear and got it listed they would get my attention.
What battery are you using?
I’m using eg4 lifepower4 and solution batteries. signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=bkpkbxde
And
aolithium.com/products/51-2v-100ah-server-rack-lithium-lifepo4-battery
Learned a lot. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
These Inverters have got to be more quiet.
If you want quiet, need to go Victron
@@tgbatg Ok thank you
@@tgbatg Any model you recommend?
You said not to touch anything in the panel then you go poking and touching everything with the screwdriver.
Watch "6000xp is not UL9540 certified. YOU CANNOT LEGALLY install in the US along with solar panels" on UA-cam to learn why you might want to reconsider buying this inverter.
What are you talking about? I have this exact inverter paired with the EG4 wall mount battery connected to 3200watts of Solar. Maybe you need to clarify your comment. I “think” you mean it can’t be on grid due to the lack of UL rating. Which is why it’s an off grid system… But it’s Completely legal, at least in VA.
If installing in Maricopa County (Phoenix area) with solar panels the full system being installed requires permits even though it will not be "tied" to the grid. The permits will require everything to meet NEC and must have UL9540 certification. The EG4 wall mount battery system that can be bought with the EG4 6000XP in a nice package is 9540 certified BUT not the EG4 6000XP! I have read online that the same issue exists in California. So no 9540 certification, no pass with permits.
We don’t need no stinking’ permits, brah!
@@jamesbeaudin1939 Isn’t everyone moving out of Maricopa County because of those Liberal Communist Rules… Might as well be in California or New York.
The 6000XP is not a grid tie inverter, UL certified doesn't apply here. You can absolutely install these in the US
This low cost transformerless inverter is OK for wimpy low surge loads, but it can't start a 6,000 Watt inductive load like a 6kW water pump or a 6kW AC unit.
If you don’t need to start something like that, then it’s a good option
You're full of crap, why an XP6000 can start the universe if need be...
@@GetReal77 Dream on moron. The 6000XP can't even start a 6000 Watt inductive load without overloading. .
@@GetReal77 Dream on fool. I've repeatedly asked SS and their affiliate advertisers to produce a video showing this low surge inverter starting a 6kW inductive load and so far, no show. And you know why? Because it can't. LOL! 🤣
@@solarcharging9743 You are mistaken, an XP 6000 at full throttle will generate a black hole and destroy the entire planet. I wanted 2 Victron 5000's but they are not UL listed, then I was going to get a Schnieder 6848 but hear customer support is really lacking so I ended up with a EGboy. What about a SMA 6048 US or what do you recommend? No a HF will not do near what a good LF will do but the latest EG4 stuff is getting good reviews for what it is...
The high frequency, 6000XP is not UL9540 certified. YOU CANNOT LEGALLY install this inverter in the US with solar panels, so you'll never get it permitted.
So is it unsafe with panels...
@@Bigshow857
I thought it was certified. But all it means if it's not is that you can't get it permitted for on grid installation. Most people use it separately from grid/off grid
This inverter is for off grid and is one of the best out their for that purpose.. I run an lv 6548 and it has been great but will be switching to this for the 240 volts