I built a workshop in my garden with insulated panels and I'm so glad I did, excellent product, so much easier than a wood construction and probably cost me less as well.
@@jonmould2946 surely its fire rated to at least 15mins? Some kingspan quadcore has a fire rating of 245mins! All in all alot more fire proof then some dead untreated wood 👍
I fitted these over the summer after removing old cement/asbestos roof on a garage and they are the best easy to fit and creates insulated roof (no more condensation in the garage)!
I want to do the same on my single garage this summer. The asbestos roof has a metal structure that holds it up. Did you keep that and added OSB under the insulated panels or have you got any other recommendations? Thanks
@@christianu8023 Sounds very similar to our layout, when first put up i left the metal supports in however i then removed most of them (about 4 separate supports supporting old roof) as they are not needed the panels are strong enough without the under-supports. The only one i left was the front one to ensure that the panel was on a slope, so panels fitting at the front on old metal support then onto the concreate base at the back. I went with Kingspan Quadcore 80mm depth from the insulated Panel store and they are more than strong enough to hold my weight, am nearly 15stone so not light. Keep to smallest number of panels you can other than that its pretty straightforward, they not the cheapest but when costed OSB/Flat roof and even just plain metal sheets it was few hundred pounds more but fully insulated already and million miles easier than fitting flat roof. The Panel store were very helpful with recommending number of panels and all the flashings etc.
@@LythamTraderVegas Thanks Andrew. I am definitely considering them. What I am also looking into now is whether or not I want to put solar panels on the garage as I will also have to do the electrics and install a car charger. Hence, I may have to keep the structural support. Initially I just wanted to get rid of the asbestos and it now becomes a workshop project with so much more to consider… 😂
Our new 3 bay workshop for HGV's was made out of this stuff, but we didn't have the insulation. My god was it cold in winter and hot in summer. It was put up in 1989 and is still standing in Smiths of Bury in Pilsworth. Great material.
I clad the sides of my large 30x13ft concrete sectional garage years ago with Kingspan/Celotex and loglap, it totally transformed the look. I looked at fitting these insulated panels for the roof, but they were out of my budget at the time. Its been nearly 10 years now so may have to look at my options again. Thanks for the video as it answered some unknowns.
That roof looks great what a great product to use on garden rooms and sheds when they need a new roof upgrade I’ll definitely be looking at this for my shed 👍
One note on these panels is that they are incredibly loud inside the building in heavy rain, because the rain hits the metal and the sound transfers straight through. Maybe not a big deal in a workshop or garden shed, but if you're using them on a home office in the garden it can be quite annoying (especially if you spend a lot of time on the phone!). I have wondered about putting fake grass in the grooves, or some other material to 'break the fall' of the water and generally soften the sound. Having said that, they do make for a very warm room in the winter, provided the rest of your room is as well insulated.
@@gdfggggg Me too! For those afternoons when it's just me and my laptop the bring on the rain. It's the days when I'm trying to speak on the phone / conference calls that it's a struggle.
Mint job, excellent finish. Looks like garage will be getting done this year. But couldn't help noticing the solar set up next door, thumbs up that man.
Looks like a nice job. If you didn't have a rubber roof already would you put these panels directly on the rafters or would you put a membrane down first?
Thank you for videos, I am going to be doing 2 roof in the next few days :) it's just arrived, they forgot the stitching screws so off to find some now and some string.
CT1 yeah?! Stixall won’t be happy with you! 😅 But seriously what a great looking product… My workshops gonna get a new roof once the monsoon season is over! 😁
Had a large brick effect prefab double garage 23 foot by 21 foot 15 foot up and over door with a cement fibre apex roof that was cracking and letting in water, so had a roof panels like this with 4 inch insulation fitted that was about 10 years ago no more rain and with 4 inch no condension inside. Next door did he same .
Don't seal the capping foam down, it creates a dam area behind it that will rust out the top. Also you don't peal back the protective plastic just screw straight though it, makes it harder to peal off latter but still protects the from from the swarf. Most importantly vacuum, sweep and leaf blow the steel swarf off as soon as possible. But I do love this stuff, I would build a whole house of it given half the chance :)
@rastlach thanks for the suggestions. I am putting insulated panels on my cottage. It has a number of valleys given the roof lines. How do you tackle those?
My properties usually have RCC roof and I like flat roofs to walk and spend time on, but because one of my property is next to forest they dont allow RCC, this will be the first time I will have this kind of roof installed, your video gave me a good idea. Shame that i cannot be safe on rooftops to watch the sky at night or the leopards and hyenas at night, maybe i will build a platform
Great job! I can't see a single thing that can be done better and I especially like how you covered every trim piece that you need and that the vendor recommends you use! The only thing is that the roof is nice a modern and the building is far from it :)
I've rewatched several times and still don't understand the down slope end. Is the foam left exposed and does the water just run under the flashing? Where do the leaves and stuff go? Wouldn't it be better to get the end cap under the metal roofing? I must be missing something......edit: just watched another video where they undercut the foam. These appear to have done that just not showed. Also the other video they capped the foam end with a piece of flashing, can't tell if they did that here.
I'm intrigued as to what building regs might say to use this on the house instead of concrete tiles or slates.... has this kind of insulated roofing panels is used extensively in Scandinavia on modern buildings
Pharma Companies all over Ireland use similar products to Clad and Roof their Production, Utilities, and Office Buildings and have really stood the test of time mind you they are screwed through with those TEK screws onto steel structural elements... Obviously Building Regs would require a robust structural aspect, of Off Site pre fabricated structure of BOX section steel comes to mind in that regard and Bolt together...for a home structural element, then you would be good to go for that the cladding...
@Skillbuilder I have a P-shaped upvc conservatory with an aluminium perspex roof, it stretches almost 3m and the narrowest it is about 1.6m and have been contemplating to install these panels. But the problem I see is without first dismantling the roof structure, how to measure and order the right sized panels and secondly how to cut the P-shaped sections. It would be quite tricky to cut out the panels accurately on the ground before first installing them. Any advise on the best approach would be greatly appreciated.
Great video, I’ve priced up my new garden room roof with traditional wood joist frame/EPDM vs the Kingspan, the insulated panels slightly more expensive but a massive time saver, are the panels you fitted 80mm (111mm including ridges?)
Greetings! thanks for this informative video! I have one question: why did you apply those foam strips and glue to the root before applying the indicated panels? What is the function of that?
Im confused about the rubber profile parts for the roff capping; was the capping not in place, and just resting while you applied the bead of adhesive?
Question is there supposed to be air flow under those insulated panel’s to allow drying of water vapor? Does appear to be excelent product what is its fire rating.
@@SkillBuilder if insulation is placed below in the building the potential of vapor condensation is there. That metal skin is a vapor barrier that is why i asked that . Insulated panels and structures have been destroyed in buildings in particularly cold climates .
Can someone help me out? If this was used as the roof, rather than an overroof, where's the condensation line? As the insulation panel would be a warm surface on the inside (and therefore room moisture couldn't condensate out onto it) is there not one? I've fitted warm and cold roofs, so I'm used to knowing where the barrier is, and how to avoid condensation, but I haven't yet fitted one of these foam roofs, as I am ignorant of what happens on a cold day. Cheers.
no pasa nada, la condensacion sucede con la humedad tratando de entrar al frio , normalmente el frio estara afuera, pero el espsor de la epuma impide que haya choque termico
Hello. Please need expert's suggestions/advice. We hired a contractor for a mezzanine floor for our shop and our contractor by mistake/intentionally fixed 50mm PU sandwich panel on floor and finished concrete over it. We have mixed opinion about using sandwich panel as a floor. Our shop is going to open soon and our contractor is still very sure about it because he said sandwich panel has very good load bearing capacity. We are very confused and we do not have a time for re-work. Can anybody suggest me what to do in that case. Thank you
That is a standard floor construction and he is right to say that it is load bearing. If you have photographs of the construction this should help but it should have been done under building control and inspected.
@skillbuilder What thickness did you choose, 80mm or 137mm? I'm looking to install solar panels on top eventually so my immediate preference was 137mm, but if the strength across an 80mm x 3.6m span is sufficient I might be able to save some money.
The brackets for the solar panel rails would screw into the same rafters that the roof panels are screwed into so no real need for the roof panel to support the solar panels just the roof structure. Put the brackets for the solar panel rails on at the same time as attaching the roof panels then you will not need to remove the screws and have them a bit looser in the same holes or use longer screws to allow for the bracket thickness. Go for the thicker roof panels most of the cost is in the manufacture and facing the extra foam thickness only adds 10-20 % but give 50 % better insulation and a much stronger panel around double the strength.
My design doesn't have rafters as Kingspan suggest I don't need any for a sub 3.6m span. I asked @skillbuilder the question as the version he is using can support the weight of two people.
I am planning to use these for my new workshop - would it be possible to use sheet metal screws from underneath to fix them, so as not to have any holes in the upper side which may leak when the screw sealing ages?
Not a good plan the screws attach the overlap and trap the panel between the screw and the rafters. Just screwing from underneath would just attach the bottom cladding with only the bond to the foam and top cladding and you would still need to put screws in the top to join the overlap. The seal is on the peak and the sealing washer is good for the life of the roof. You could change the screws every 30 years in a few hours if it worries you. I would be more concerned about the 3 layers separating in high winds and getting wet from loosing the roof and no insurance will cover you if it was not installed as per manufacturers instructions.
No. If you get the correct thickness insulation you can use it on domestic, something like a barn conversion where it'd match in with the existing while improving the insulation value in the roof. I've actually got a roof to install where this stuff is specified.
Those washers might need replacing after 25 years but that is half an hours work. Even if the leaked minutely it would be a long time before it rotted the timber. If you don't screw it down it could end up in the neighbour's garden.
In this instance we were laying the panels on the existing roof which was really out of square. We were then able to push the panel up from the bottom until we were happy with the gutter line. If I had more time and money I would have demolished this building as there wasn't a straight line, walls are out of level and the roof was so out of square. However there has been significant rainfall since this was recorded and it remains water tight!
I’d be very interested in seeing how this would be done on a Victorian shaped UPVC conservatory and how you’d fix it down. Mine is freezing and let’s in water, this could be the ideal fix!!
The mini z was installed the wrong way the colour should face down and the fixings securing it should be hidden under the flashing the mini z is supporting , also fixing the ridge literally through the welt id just asking for leaks
I built a workshop in my garden with insulated panels and I'm so glad I did, excellent product, so much easier than a wood construction and probably cost me less as well.
Looks like it's not fireproof
@@jonmould2946and wood is?
@@jonmould2946 why would you think that? Definitely more fireproof then timber
@wadacalit looks like it's foam which is more flammable.
@@jonmould2946 surely its fire rated to at least 15mins? Some kingspan quadcore has a fire rating of 245mins! All in all alot more fire proof then some dead untreated wood 👍
I fitted these over the summer after removing old cement/asbestos roof on a garage and they are the best easy to fit and creates insulated roof (no more condensation in the garage)!
I want to do the same on my single garage this summer. The asbestos roof has a metal structure that holds it up. Did you keep that and added OSB under the insulated panels or have you got any other recommendations? Thanks
@@christianu8023 Sounds very similar to our layout, when first put up i left the metal supports in however i then removed most of them (about 4 separate supports supporting old roof) as they are not needed the panels are strong enough without the under-supports. The only one i left was the front one to ensure that the panel was on a slope, so panels fitting at the front on old metal support then onto the concreate base at the back. I went with Kingspan Quadcore 80mm depth from the insulated Panel store and they are more than strong enough to hold my weight, am nearly 15stone so not light. Keep to smallest number of panels you can other than that its pretty straightforward, they not the cheapest but when costed OSB/Flat roof and even just plain metal sheets it was few hundred pounds more but fully insulated already and million miles easier than fitting flat roof. The Panel store were very helpful with recommending number of panels and all the flashings etc.
@@LythamTraderVegas Thanks Andrew. I am definitely considering them.
What I am also looking into now is whether or not I want to put solar panels on the garage as I will also have to do the electrics and install a car charger. Hence, I may have to keep the structural support.
Initially I just wanted to get rid of the asbestos and it now becomes a workshop project with so much more to consider… 😂
Do you not still get condensation on these if the outbuilding has no heat source?
@@handle1196 heat is usually the cause of condensation. Warm air instead meets cold on the outside. Hot shower = condensation on your windows etc
This looks brilliant stuff. Looks like the stuff they make all the new warehouses with.
Nice to see Dylan presenting. 👍
yoou should see his appearance fee. It is eye watering
@@SkillBuilder 😂 brilliant!
Our new 3 bay workshop for HGV's was made out of this stuff, but we didn't have the insulation. My god was it cold in winter and hot in summer. It was put up in 1989 and is still standing in Smiths of Bury in Pilsworth. Great material.
You can use gauntlet work gloves to protect your lower arms rather than wear sleeves in hot weather and they are proper PPE.
I clad the sides of my large 30x13ft concrete sectional garage years ago with Kingspan/Celotex and loglap, it totally transformed the look. I looked at fitting these insulated panels for the roof, but they were out of my budget at the time. Its been nearly 10 years now so may have to look at my options again. Thanks for the video as it answered some unknowns.
Nice job and good to see Dylan doing a bit 😏🧱👍🏼
This is great - helped me with designing a set of seasonal pergola roof panels using 2x2 and corrugated polycarbonate …on in winter off in summer.
That roof looks great what a great product to use on garden rooms and sheds when they need a new roof upgrade I’ll definitely be looking at this for my shed 👍
People build masterpieces with that stuff and you poor people of the civilized countries are only talking about building caps for sheds 😄😄
One note on these panels is that they are incredibly loud inside the building in heavy rain, because the rain hits the metal and the sound transfers straight through. Maybe not a big deal in a workshop or garden shed, but if you're using them on a home office in the garden it can be quite annoying (especially if you spend a lot of time on the phone!). I have wondered about putting fake grass in the grooves, or some other material to 'break the fall' of the water and generally soften the sound. Having said that, they do make for a very warm room in the winter, provided the rest of your room is as well insulated.
Are you talking about the insulated panels?
@@SkillBuilder Yes. The top layer that faces the elements (the metal) is loud when it rains.
I love the sound of rain hitting the windows in my loft conversation. Very relaxing. I’d call that a bonus.
I find it vastly quieter on my workshop roof than a single skin tin roof! best thing about them is i now have no condensation
@@gdfggggg Me too! For those afternoons when it's just me and my laptop the bring on the rain. It's the days when I'm trying to speak on the phone / conference calls that it's a struggle.
Mint job, excellent finish. Looks like garage will be getting done this year. But couldn't help noticing the solar set up next door, thumbs up that man.
I used the same on a workshop/garage replacement
Looks like a nice job. If you didn't have a rubber roof already would you put these panels directly on the rafters or would you put a membrane down first?
As they are pre-finished both sides I don’t think you have to.
No you do not , they will not condensate on the inside
nice idea with the stringline . thanks
Thank you for videos, I am going to be doing 2 roof in the next few days :) it's just arrived, they forgot the stitching screws so off to find some now and some string.
CT1 yeah?! Stixall won’t be happy with you! 😅 But seriously what a great looking product… My workshops gonna get a new roof once the monsoon season is over! 😁
Had a large brick effect prefab double garage 23 foot by 21 foot 15 foot up and over door with a cement fibre apex roof that was cracking and letting in water, so had a roof panels like this with 4 inch insulation fitted that was about 10 years ago no more rain and with 4 inch no condension inside. Next door did he same .
Don't seal the capping foam down, it creates a dam area behind it that will rust out the top. Also you don't peal back the protective plastic just screw straight though it, makes it harder to peal off latter but still protects the from from the swarf. Most importantly vacuum, sweep and leaf blow the steel swarf off as soon as possible. But I do love this stuff, I would build a whole house of it given half the chance :)
@rastlach thanks for the suggestions. I am putting insulated panels on my cottage. It has a number of valleys given the roof lines. How do you tackle those?
interesting looking ct1 at the end there
slip of the tongue it was stixall!
@@SJWardBuilders Bang goes our Stixall sponsorship deal.
Tempted to buikd my whole workshop with these things. So nuch less hassle
Enjoyed that. A good job and well explained
question ?
when it rains how/were does the water run off to?
do you need to add traditional guttering ?
Thank you for this video. Cheers from New Mexico, USA.
My properties usually have RCC roof and I like flat roofs to walk and spend time on, but because one of my property is next to forest they dont allow RCC, this will be the first time I will have this kind of roof installed, your video gave me a good idea. Shame that i cannot be safe on rooftops to watch the sky at night or the leopards and hyenas at night, maybe i will build a platform
Excellent video, very detailed explanation. Thank you for taking the time to make it
Great job! I can't see a single thing that can be done better and I especially like how you covered every trim piece that you need and that the vendor recommends you use!
The only thing is that the roof is nice a modern and the building is far from it :)
How do you fit a gutter to that, not keen on it just running off to the ground.
It is actually very easy, The gutter goes underneath and is concealed
@@SkillBuilderAre you able to cover the gutter installation in another video please? Nice job 👍.
I've rewatched several times and still don't understand the down slope end. Is the foam left exposed and does the water just run under the flashing? Where do the leaves and stuff go? Wouldn't it be better to get the end cap under the metal roofing? I must be missing something......edit: just watched another video where they undercut the foam. These appear to have done that just not showed. Also the other video they capped the foam end with a piece of flashing, can't tell if they did that here.
You should have signed your name on the corner facia or put your company name. I do that for any work I'm proud of. This is fantastic work.
Really helpful, thank you. I am putting insulated panels on my cottage. It has a number of valleys given the roof lines. How do you tackle those?
I'm intrigued as to what building regs might say to use this on the house instead of concrete tiles or slates.... has this kind of insulated roofing panels is used extensively in Scandinavia on modern buildings
Pharma Companies all over Ireland use similar products to Clad and Roof their Production, Utilities, and Office Buildings and have really stood the test of time mind you they are screwed through with those TEK screws onto steel structural elements... Obviously Building Regs would require a robust structural aspect, of Off Site pre fabricated structure of BOX section steel comes to mind in that regard and Bolt together...for a home structural element, then you would be good to go for that the cladding...
I've just started this video, and found that it's not really for me.. but doesn't the bloke on the right do an excellent Keir Starmer impression?
Can you add (cosmetic) roof tiles over the top with basic battens if needed for planning (match surrounding roofs)?
That would look nice above my hot tub Sam 😊
@Skillbuilder I have a P-shaped upvc conservatory with an aluminium perspex roof, it stretches almost 3m and the narrowest it is about 1.6m and have been contemplating to install these panels.
But the problem I see is without first dismantling the roof structure, how to measure and order the right sized panels and secondly how to cut the P-shaped sections. It would be quite tricky to cut out the panels accurately on the ground before first installing them.
Any advise on the best approach would be greatly appreciated.
Problem i had at gutter overhang was water capillary re action bringing water back inside ,should have put a bed of mastic under sheet 😢
This seems a really good product and not that difficult to to install
Youd be surprised , i install this for a living , its harder than it looks , this guy has made so many mistakes
@@AK4ourty7even47 does the metal underside conduct the outside heat and cold into the interior? I am having trouble seeing how it wouldn't.
@@WTFUSERNAM44 NO is the answer , like the uploader said , this product is a great insulator
Can this work on a corrugated conservatory roof ?
Brilliant stuff , great job, lads 👍
Hi when you fitted the ridge flashing did you overhang them by anything or were they just butted up against each other
Nice job well done.
Is the amount of cut back for the gutter.
Never used those panels before.
Thanks for the video.
Very nice love from India🇮🇳
Great work looks like I'll be doing this to my shed
Great vid chaps 👍
Great work chaps. 🫡
Is there any provision to fit skylights or windows?. Standard sized window frames or similar provision? Thanks for the informative video.
No it would not work well to put a roof window in this system.
Very Nice, good woke, from Québec Canada
Surely that foam weather strip should go under the ridge plate to form a seal?
It does
Great video, I’ve priced up my new garden room roof with traditional wood joist frame/EPDM vs the Kingspan, the insulated panels slightly more expensive but a massive time saver, are the panels you fitted 80mm (111mm including ridges?)
Always check height regs before you install anything that "may" contravene said regs for the building/construction.
It doesn't we checked
@@SkillBuilder Hence the "May" for all your subs
Is this compatible for rainwater harvesting?
Yes the top sheet is the same as standard metal roof no water contacts the insulation that is what the cut away and flashing is for.
Greetings! thanks for this informative video! I have one question: why did you apply those foam strips and glue to the root before applying the indicated panels? What is the function of that?
because it need seal if the screw fail
Hey, Did you put anything under the apex and the ridgboard other than the Foam to block animals etc?
birds niche
Im confused about the rubber profile parts for the roff capping; was the capping not in place, and just resting while you applied the bead of adhesive?
It was just moved back 100 mm or 4 inches their were no screws in it yes just resting.
you guys actually seem really profesional
Question is there supposed to be air flow under those insulated panel’s to allow drying of water vapor? Does appear to be excelent product what is its fire rating.
Having an airflow beneath the insulation means you don't have insulation.
@@SkillBuilder if insulation is placed below in the building the potential of vapor condensation is there. That metal skin is a vapor barrier that is why i asked that . Insulated panels and structures have been destroyed in buildings in particularly cold climates .
Can someone help me out? If this was used as the roof, rather than an overroof, where's the condensation line? As the insulation panel would be a warm surface on the inside (and therefore room moisture couldn't condensate out onto it) is there not one? I've fitted warm and cold roofs, so I'm used to knowing where the barrier is, and how to avoid condensation, but I haven't yet fitted one of these foam roofs, as I am ignorant of what happens on a cold day. Cheers.
no pasa nada, la condensacion sucede con la humedad tratando de entrar al frio , normalmente el frio estara afuera, pero el espsor de la epuma impide que haya choque termico
Can I put this on a house?
Fantastic video, thanks .
what happened to your video after this one about building regulations/wars...taken down?
i guess he decided the comments were too political and decided to take it down
An I missing something, should the ridge foam seal go under the ridge cap.
It did! The ridge wasn't fixed down. Once the foam seals were stuck the ridge was moved into place and screwed down.
What is the cost for this product and how here can we buy it?
wish we had these on the other side of the pond.
Where to find insulated wall panels? Everywhere are only roof one?
You can use the roof ones for walls, they do this on big commercial fridges
What about gutterings?
Hello. Please need expert's suggestions/advice. We hired a contractor for a mezzanine floor for our shop and our contractor by mistake/intentionally fixed 50mm PU sandwich panel on floor and finished concrete over it. We have mixed opinion about using sandwich panel as a floor. Our shop is going to open soon and our contractor is still very sure about it because he said sandwich panel has very good load bearing capacity. We are very confused and we do not have a time for re-work. Can anybody suggest me what to do in that case. Thank you
That is a standard floor construction and he is right to say that it is load bearing. If you have photographs of the construction this should help but it should have been done under building control and inspected.
@skillbuilder What thickness did you choose, 80mm or 137mm? I'm looking to install solar panels on top eventually so my immediate preference was 137mm, but if the strength across an 80mm x 3.6m span is sufficient I might be able to save some money.
The brackets for the solar panel rails would screw into the same rafters that the roof panels are screwed into so no real need for the roof panel to support the solar panels just the roof structure. Put the brackets for the solar panel rails on at the same time as attaching the roof panels then you will not need to remove the screws and have them a bit looser in the same holes or use longer screws to allow for the bracket thickness. Go for the thicker roof panels most of the cost is in the manufacture and facing the extra foam thickness only adds 10-20 % but give 50 % better insulation and a much stronger panel around double the strength.
My design doesn't have rafters as Kingspan suggest I don't need any for a sub 3.6m span.
I asked @skillbuilder the question as the version he is using can support the weight of two people.
I could ask you to fit them on my roof to replace current ones....possible? In London.
I am planning to use these for my new workshop - would it be possible to use sheet metal screws from underneath to fix them, so as not to have any holes in the upper side which may leak when the screw sealing ages?
Not a good plan the screws attach the overlap and trap the panel between the screw and the rafters. Just screwing from underneath would just attach the bottom cladding with only the bond to the foam and top cladding and you would still need to put screws in the top to join the overlap. The seal is on the peak and the sealing washer is good for the life of the roof. You could change the screws every 30 years in a few hours if it worries you. I would be more concerned about the 3 layers separating in high winds and getting wet from loosing the roof and no insurance will cover you if it was not installed as per manufacturers instructions.
@@suncitybooksgeraldton335 Good advice thanks
Very cool!
❤Gracias por compartir brillante diseño
What cost are we looking at?
Is it possible to cover the roofs of residential buildings in this way in England?
Yes it has become quite popular
Got this on my new extension
any recommendation of a company that installs such roofs in the area of Leeds, West Yorkshire?
@@kuboncom7851 I did it myself
Hi does anybody know what those cost and where to buy them ?
Can you use them for walls too?
yes have a look here ua-cam.com/video/bXem-xRNEX4/v-deo.html
Can we find this insulating roof panels
in California. ????
15:25 that’s clearly not CT1😂
stixall!! a genuine slip of the tongue! Id planned to use ct1 but only had stixall but still said ct1!
Hybrid polymer adhesive so same difference really, just half the price
i don't like the screws through the metal, may create a leak later, the panels should slide together like a tongue and groove sealed by design.
yes but at some point they need to be fixed to the roof.
How did you locate the battens that you screwed into from above?
measuring
is it only good for garden rooms and garages?
No. If you get the correct thickness insulation you can use it on domestic, something like a barn conversion where it'd match in with the existing while improving the insulation value in the roof. I've actually got a roof to install where this stuff is specified.
This is a beautiful product!
Is it available in Canada?
there's a U.S. producer so probably at least via NAFTA
How much
ابدعتم... شكرا
The panels look fine but it’s the rubber washers and sealant that will eventually leak
Those washers might need replacing after 25 years but that is half an hours work. Even if the leaked minutely it would be a long time before it rotted the timber. If you don't screw it down it could end up in the neighbour's garden.
Where can you buy these panels
Is that your charging port ?
Impressive system
@ 8:20 Is there a reason for the six inch gap between panels at the ridge?
In this instance we were laying the panels on the existing roof which was really out of square. We were then able to push the panel up from the bottom until we were happy with the gutter line. If I had more time and money I would have demolished this building as there wasn't a straight line, walls are out of level and the roof was so out of square. However there has been significant rainfall since this was recorded and it remains water tight!
Salam dari Indonesia
Sticking the tape down on to dusty surfaces 👁🫦👁
at 150 a panel with VAT, that looks like it saves a fair bit of time (labour). Probably not as easy as they make it look, but nice product.
no lap tape ?
You don't need it
Anyone know if you can use these on a conservatory?
Yes for sure, they are used that way quite a lot
I’d be very interested in seeing how this would be done on a Victorian shaped UPVC conservatory and how you’d fix it down.
Mine is freezing and let’s in water, this could be the ideal fix!!
The mini z was installed the wrong way the colour should face down and the fixings securing it should be hidden under the flashing the mini z is supporting , also fixing the ridge literally through the welt id just asking for leaks
Go the extra mile and make the caulk color match the roof color😎
The rubber needs to be up tight to ridge that gaps just going to fill with warter when it rains
It is placed under the ridge flashing. The ridge wasn't fixed until the foam fillers were in place!
@SJWardBuilders I see! Thanks for clearing this up wouldn't of thought you left it that way. Good job
Keren sekali cara kerjanya
Guess gutters is the next show?
I installed this and now i feel like a
ROOOFAA 😂