A question for you. How do you seal the hatch that comes with the kit? I instead use a flat clear sheat of lexan cut to the shape of the opening and and use electrician tape for ZERO WATER COMING THROUGH. Hundred percent watertight.
On this video you will see that I built up a 3/8" wide styrene wall around the hatch hole and I was currently using a white computer foam packing material which keeps water out. I am currently using believe it or not a cut up piece from a blue rubber flip flop that you can buy even from the dollar store. It replaced the packing foam I was using on this video. All you need to do is buy the largest size flip flop and cut it just a tad bigger than the hatch hole for it to be press fit. You will not even need to make a wall like I did if you don't want to. You can see the build on my Instagram 01viper27. I do not know where you are located but electrical tape does not work for me when I sail in winter.
I cut a 3 mm acrilic, released the original parts that attaches the original hatch, and I got a perfect seal. I also used liquid electric tape to isolate the servos.
@@potopoton I use GOOP silicone to seal my servos and wires. Same silicone I use on my gas boats. I am sure yours will work as I have tried that route my self. I like my current set up as it also acts a floatation device. On another note if you are interested in keeping your SEAWIND afloat in an emergency, you might want to get an empty 1 liter IV (intravenous) bag and fill it with air then seal it with a plug (air bag). The trick is to empty the IV bag, cut one end off and insert a1/8" OD x 8" long plastic hose on the cut nipple and insert the deflated IV bag in the front cavity of the boat. Once there, you can blow it up just enough that it doesn't make the deck bulge out but it can still expand when the weather is hot but not enough to separate the deck and hull apart. When you have blown it up, simply plug the hose and it will hold air forever. I use the same floatation device for my gas boats and sailboats. If you are interested.
@@fredrikg934 HK Monsoon was first. As much as I liked it, I sold it after 6 months and got myself the TT ETNZ. You will find that I modified that heavily as well on my videos here. Sails even better with a heavier keel. I sailed it for a long time until it died. It was the poor man's IOM of the time. The DF95 is now the current poor man's IOM in my honest opinion. I like my SEAWIND better just because it is more scale and handles even better.
Love it man...Nice work.
Thank you sir.
thanks for sharing the video, and the bulb idea.
Thank you.
A question for you. How do you seal the hatch that comes with the kit?
I instead use a flat clear sheat of lexan cut to the shape of the opening and and use electrician tape for ZERO WATER COMING THROUGH. Hundred percent watertight.
On this video you will see that I built up a 3/8" wide styrene wall around the hatch hole and I was currently using a white computer foam packing material which keeps water out. I am currently using believe it or not a cut up piece from a blue rubber flip flop that you can buy even from the dollar store. It replaced the packing foam I was using on this video. All you need to do is buy the largest size flip flop and cut it just a tad bigger than the hatch hole for it to be press fit. You will not even need to make a wall like I did if you don't want to. You can see the build on my Instagram 01viper27. I do not know where you are located but electrical tape does not work for me when I sail in winter.
I cut a 3 mm acrilic, released the original parts that attaches the original hatch, and I got a perfect seal. I also used liquid electric tape to isolate the servos.
@@potopoton I use GOOP silicone to seal my servos and wires. Same silicone I use on my gas boats. I am sure yours will work as I have tried that route my self. I like my current set up as it also acts a floatation device. On another note if you are interested in keeping your SEAWIND afloat in an emergency, you might want to get an empty 1 liter IV (intravenous) bag and fill it with air then seal it with a plug (air bag). The trick is to empty the IV bag, cut one end off and insert a1/8" OD x 8" long plastic hose on the cut nipple and insert the deflated IV bag in the front cavity of the boat. Once there, you can blow it up just enough that it doesn't make the deck bulge out but it can still expand when the weather is hot but not enough to separate the deck and hull apart. When you have blown it up, simply plug the hose and it will hold air forever. I use the same floatation device for my gas boats and sailboats. If you are interested.
I had a Thunder Tiger ETNZ too. It sailed even better with a heavier bulb.
Which one do you prefer? The ETNZ or the Seawind?
@@fredrikg934 HK Monsoon was first. As much as I liked it, I sold it after 6 months and got myself the TT ETNZ. You will find that I modified that heavily as well on my videos here. Sails even better with a heavier keel. I sailed it for a long time until it died. It was the poor man's IOM of the time. The DF95 is now the current poor man's IOM in my honest opinion. I like my SEAWIND better just because it is more scale and handles even better.
we also changed the sails. we bought from spain . but a friend made them from a material called mylar, not so preatty but he is faster.
My sails are Mylar as well and bigger than the stock dimensions. Watch my other video on open salt water sailing.
Leach is too long with too much sag and twist.
Mine has More changes in the sails movement AND servos. We are about 15 seawinds AND compete mostly saturdays
Nice, mine Is alike except the bulb. But with no other seawind racing. You cant compare.
your bulb remind me the fly emirates bulb
@potopoton flip your ballast front to back and you will see that it will handle much better.
yes, most of my friends did that. but i did not. sorry my inglish is not good enough. changes the center of gravity backwards.
@@potopoton Thats the idea. It planes better.
Shame very por video
here it is now... ua-cam.com/video/RNxopwTLvJA/v-deo.html