Arne, thank you for the thorough and clear video explanation. Very helpful in explaining for a new sailor like myself! Just to let you know, your English is quite good and far better than the average American today!
Hi great video and as another "expert" I would like to add that a loose footed main has the draft all the way to the foot, IF your foot is in a sail track then yes your sail plan is correct, good luck and keep those videos coming
@@martvaljamae3214 IOM is a tight game! to make a fast sail is realy easy but to make the fastest is sooo hard! the limitations help a lot and plenty of research is avaliable. things to consider: the sharper the sail the higher and faster you can go, the flater the sail the less drag it has. the deeper the more powerfull, the rounder the entry the more forgiving and easy to sail on the edge. luffcurve is a private thing: mainsail: a lot of tention in the mast can be rock solid to sail but if you bend the mast the mainsail needs to fit that. sail for the jib: if you run a negative or positive curve can both have good and bad impect but its always between + and - 5mm. do you want a hard forestay or a loose one, do you runin waves or flat water. most flat water a loos jib can realy power up your boat but is super twichy on windshifts- can be good and bad - you feel it fast but you stop fast
Hi I sail an IOM. CAN YOU TELL ME AN IDEAL CORD DEPTH AS A PERCENTAGE OF THE CORD WIDTH FOR THE MAINSAIL AND JIB. MAIN IS A 4 panel sail and jib is a 3 panel sail. I have enjoyed this tutorial very much. Well done. Thx Rob
I'll get back to you with an answer. Right now I can not be exact enough for a good IOM sail. Those sails are super tried and tested and cheap to buy all over the world
I'd like to discuss one tricky point: I see you set the max draft of the upper main sail panel at something similar to the jib. I believe the reasoning is that you set let's say 35% for the jib and you think that at the top of the main, the main shall have the same draft to the one of the jib - right? Some sailmakers are saying that the main sail curves the wind in front of the boat in such a way that the flow hitting the jib is bent upwind - this is why the draft is further in the front so as to give e fuller entry matching the flow hitting the jib. But there is no such phenomenon at the top of the main. Moreover the top of the sail is moving in all sorts of direction due to the waves - this would lead to making a deeper and more tolerant top main sail - which you achieve with a draft positioned further back. On my dinghy for instance the best main sails have a draft position set at 50%. At the 35% the sail works only in very specific conditions in flat water (no waves) and very accurate tuning... I'd like to know your point of view. (In model boats I sail RG65, Marblehead and 10 Rater).
Hallo Arne, sehr schoen fuer Profilevel. Ich brauche nur so einen ungefaehren Schnitt fuer ein Testmodel. Segelgroesse ein bischen kleiner als dein Beispiel, sagen wir mal 120cm Vorlieklaenge.... Wo finde ich denn einen Schnitt fuer ca. 5-6 Panele? Gruesse Sam
Das kommt auf das Boot an. Jedes Boot ist etwas unterschiedlich. Also start würde ich 3 bahnen mit ca 8 bis 20° wählen. Je nach dem, wie sehr die Schablone gebogen ist. Sage mir ob es klappt
@@carbonarne675 Hallo Arne, Danke fuer die rasche Antwort. 8-20grad ist der Anfangswinkel der Bahnenkante von der Horizontalen..... Ich bin erst in der ersten Konzeptphase, es wird noch ein bischen dauern, bis ich soweit bin. Ich habe mal grob geschaut, im Internet finde ich da sage und schreibe Nichts ! also so ein Beispiel Schnittmuster.... damit es halt nicht komplett flach ist das Segel. Gruesse S
@SamuelLanghorn wichtig ist, die Bahnen alle ca 25mm größer zu lassen und nach dem kleben gerade zu schneiden, so wie du es brauchst. Das grošsegel muss die Biegung vom Mast übernehmen. Die Vorderkante ist also nicht gerade wie ein Lineal sondern etwas gebogen. Der Bauch vom vorsegel ist weit vorne, ca bei 18%, der Bauch vom großsegel eher bei 30 bis 45% je nach Boot. Die Ecken muss man mit Klebeband verstärken. Also Baumaterial eignet sich Schablonenfolie von amazon
Yes that's right! The Sailmaterial is not stiff enough to hold its shape that hard. It just 'plps to the other side and is comeatly identical. That plop is supported by the wind that pushes the sail to the other side.
Search for extra strong extra thin 6mm double-sided tape. 3M is not really what you are looking for. You will find it in your country as sailmakers tape or 6mm double-sided tape. Should go for around 6€/ roll
@@jasonboyd5220 there is stuff on eBay and Amazone and so on. A lot of different stuff work really well. There is nothing specific I have used 5 different tapes and found them to be all working ok. Some are a little harder to handle some a little cheaper. All held up so far
It's not boring! Many of these techniques are new to me, and very interesting! I just started with a working (rough) 2ch trimaran prototype.. It works, and now I'll redifine the sails and make a turtle 😀
Das kommt auf das Boot an. Jedes Boot ist etwas unterschiedlich. Also start würde ich 3 bahnen mit ca 8 bis 20° wählen. Je nach dem, wie sehr die Schablone gebogen ist. Sage mir ob es klappt
I am confused regarding your method for determining the angle that the two surfaces of the turtle make for each seam. We know that the camber "sewn into" each seam is independent of the seam length and only dependent on the angle between the two surfaces of the turtle. The method you have shown to determine this angle (at the 16:00 mark) means that you would be decreasing this angle as you go from the bottom seam up the sail to the top seam. This means you are actually reducing the camber in each seam as you travel up the sail. Isn't this just the opposite of what you really want? You want to increase camber as you travel from bottom to top of the sail.
It hardly depends what your goal is. A maximum power sail will have a lot more depth in the top this catamaran sail got mot of its power in the bottom and from mast bend. I am working on a new sailmaking video for new boats. One for a trimaran one for RG 65 one for IOM one for the big boat
If you want a sail with a lot of power and drag you can make it deeper. The faster a boat is the flatter you can go. Goal is to go as shallow as possible to point higher and sail faster with less drag. (slow lightwind keel boat against foiling catamaran) Pointing higher is the important point: if you have a lot of twist in your mainsail you would have a deep sail in the wind and might be to deep for the angle of attaack up there. I hope that helps
@@carbonarne675 Yes, I do understand that drag increases faster than lift increases as you increase camber. My question concerns your use of the diagram at the 16:00 min mark which clearly shows you are decreasing the camber in the sail as you go from the bottom seam to the top seam of the sail. This is contrary to modern sailmaking practice, where camber increases as you ascend from the foot of the sail to the head. I am not aware of any sailmaker for RC sailboats, that actually decreases camber from the foot to the head of the sail.
@@richardhunter5734 not really. With this sail material a lot of shape comes from the bottom and highest seam. Imagin bottom and top seam to be at 7° what would happen if you put a large flat section in between with no camber? It will still be bend as dose the second. It's just a large second.
Arne, thank you for the thorough and clear video explanation. Very helpful in explaining for a new sailor like myself!
Just to let you know, your English is quite good and far better than the average American today!
Thanks for a good tutorial
Thank you for saying thank you!
Hi great video and as another "expert" I would like to add that a loose footed main has the draft all the way to the foot, IF your foot is in a sail track then yes your sail plan is correct, good luck and keep those videos coming
Thanks, why that? Can you explain more?
This was really useful Video, thank you so much Arne.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. This summer I plan to make sails my 2meter trimaran.
Would really be interested in a video detailing the design side of sail making and how to calculate all the measurements needed.
That's a topic it self. But why not. I'll put it on my list
@@carbonarne675 Thanks a lot. I'm new to making molded sails (for IOMs in my case) and these videos really help.
@@martvaljamae3214 IOM is a tight game! to make a fast sail is realy easy but to make the fastest is sooo hard! the limitations help a lot and plenty of research is avaliable. things to consider: the sharper the sail the higher and faster you can go, the flater the sail the less drag it has. the deeper the more powerfull, the rounder the entry the more forgiving and easy to sail on the edge. luffcurve is a private thing: mainsail: a lot of tention in the mast can be rock solid to sail but if you bend the mast the mainsail needs to fit that. sail for the jib: if you run a negative or positive curve can both have good and bad impect but its always between + and - 5mm. do you want a hard forestay or a loose one, do you runin waves or flat water. most flat water a loos jib can realy power up your boat but is super twichy on windshifts- can be good and bad - you feel it fast but you stop fast
Hi I sail an IOM. CAN YOU TELL ME AN IDEAL CORD DEPTH AS A PERCENTAGE OF THE CORD WIDTH FOR THE MAINSAIL AND JIB. MAIN IS A 4 panel sail and jib is a 3 panel sail. I have enjoyed this tutorial very much. Well done. Thx Rob
I'll get back to you with an answer. Right now I can not be exact enough for a good IOM sail. Those sails are super tried and tested and cheap to buy all over the world
Do you have to put panels on the jip , And what about curviture on the jip?
Luff curve is a game. It really depends on the style of sail an boat. If you ask more specific I can help
I'd like to discuss one tricky point: I see you set the max draft of the upper main sail panel at something similar to the jib. I believe the reasoning is that you set let's say 35% for the jib and you think that at the top of the main, the main shall have the same draft to the one of the jib - right?
Some sailmakers are saying that the main sail curves the wind in front of the boat in such a way that the flow hitting the jib is bent upwind - this is why the draft is further in the front so as to give e fuller entry matching the flow hitting the jib. But there is no such phenomenon at the top of the main.
Moreover the top of the sail is moving in all sorts of direction due to the waves - this would lead to making a deeper and more tolerant top main sail - which you achieve with a draft positioned further back. On my dinghy for instance the best main sails have a draft position set at 50%. At the 35% the sail works only in very specific conditions in flat water (no waves) and very accurate tuning...
I'd like to know your point of view. (In model boats I sail RG65, Marblehead and 10 Rater).
Great video, thx for your effort.
A good video
Thanks buddy
Kannst Du auf die Segelplanung mit Fusion 360 detaillierter eingehen? Gibt es darüber eventuell schon ein Video?
J kann ich machen, ist alles schon gedreht aber noch nicht geschnitten
@@carbonarne675 dann bin ich mal gespannt wenn es kommt
Hallo Arne,
sehr schoen fuer Profilevel.
Ich brauche nur so einen ungefaehren Schnitt fuer ein Testmodel.
Segelgroesse ein bischen kleiner als dein Beispiel, sagen wir mal 120cm Vorlieklaenge....
Wo finde ich denn einen Schnitt fuer ca. 5-6 Panele?
Gruesse Sam
Das kommt auf das Boot an. Jedes Boot ist etwas unterschiedlich. Also start würde ich 3 bahnen mit ca 8 bis 20° wählen. Je nach dem, wie sehr die Schablone gebogen ist. Sage mir ob es klappt
@@carbonarne675 Hallo Arne, Danke fuer die rasche Antwort. 8-20grad ist der Anfangswinkel der Bahnenkante von der Horizontalen.....
Ich bin erst in der ersten Konzeptphase, es wird noch ein bischen dauern, bis ich soweit bin.
Ich habe mal grob geschaut, im Internet finde ich da sage und schreibe Nichts ! also so ein Beispiel Schnittmuster.... damit es halt nicht komplett flach ist das Segel.
Gruesse S
@SamuelLanghorn wichtig ist, die Bahnen alle ca 25mm größer zu lassen und nach dem kleben gerade zu schneiden, so wie du es brauchst. Das grošsegel muss die Biegung vom Mast übernehmen. Die Vorderkante ist also nicht gerade wie ein Lineal sondern etwas gebogen. Der Bauch vom vorsegel ist weit vorne, ca bei 18%, der Bauch vom großsegel eher bei 30 bis 45% je nach Boot. Die Ecken muss man mit Klebeband verstärken. Also Baumaterial eignet sich Schablonenfolie von amazon
Willst du ein einrumpfboot oder ein Trimarans bauen?
I am slightly confused how does the sail behave on its opposite side does the curve reverse itself on the boat on tacking ?
Yes that's right! The Sailmaterial is not stiff enough to hold its shape that hard. It just 'plps to the other side and is comeatly identical. That plop is supported by the wind that pushes the sail to the other side.
@@carbonarne675 Thank you I am converting Robe Dolphin from slotted aluminium Mast, & booms to Carbon Mast/Boom and Mylar sails soon hopefully.
@@BrianRamseysg01 that's a great project! Are you interested in 3d printing? I can teach you how to make a new ruder
By using the turtle you are creating a symmetrical wing, airflow across whole sail is even.
What do you mean airflow is even? The airflow on a sail is all over the place! So many things to consider!
Hi When u join the two panels what happens to the over lap that 4 mm that is not on the double sided tap
Can you explain further? What do you mean?
Nothing happens!... You can precut it or just let it be as it is
@@carbonarne675 Thanks
Can you please tell me the number for the thin 2 sided 3M tape? Thanks.
Search for extra strong extra thin 6mm double-sided tape. 3M is not really what you are looking for. You will find it in your country as sailmakers tape or 6mm double-sided tape. Should go for around 6€/ roll
Did you get something?
@@carbonarne675 Not yet. I’m hoping a local kite supply store has some. Thanks again.
@@jasonboyd5220 where are you from?
@@jasonboyd5220 there is stuff on eBay and Amazone and so on. A lot of different stuff work really well. There is nothing specific I have used 5 different tapes and found them to be all working ok. Some are a little harder to handle some a little cheaper. All held up so far
i got coments that its realy boring to watch- like this comment if you feel the same! and comment how you would like it
It's not boring! Many of these techniques are new to me, and very interesting! I just started with a working (rough) 2ch trimaran prototype.. It works, and now I'll redifine the sails and make a turtle 😀
@@InYourDreams-Andia great to hear that! Do you build a Mod 40? Do you have pictures somewhere?
Das kommt auf das Boot an. Jedes Boot ist etwas unterschiedlich. Also start würde ich 3 bahnen mit ca 8 bis 20° wählen. Je nach dem, wie sehr die Schablone gebogen ist. Sage mir ob es klappt
I am confused regarding your method for determining the angle that the two surfaces of the turtle make for each seam.
We know that the camber "sewn into" each seam is independent of the seam length and only dependent on the angle between the two surfaces of the turtle. The method you have shown to determine this angle (at the 16:00 mark) means that you would be decreasing this angle as you go from the bottom seam up the sail to the top seam. This means you are actually reducing the camber in each seam as you travel up the sail. Isn't this just the opposite of what you really want? You want to increase camber as you travel from bottom to top of the sail.
It hardly depends what your goal is. A maximum power sail will have a lot more depth in the top this catamaran sail got mot of its power in the bottom and from mast bend. I am working on a new sailmaking video for new boats. One for a trimaran one for RG 65 one for IOM one for the big boat
If you want a sail with a lot of power and drag you can make it deeper. The faster a boat is the flatter you can go. Goal is to go as shallow as possible to point higher and sail faster with less drag. (slow lightwind keel boat against foiling catamaran)
Pointing higher is the important point: if you have a lot of twist in your mainsail you would have a deep sail in the wind and might be to deep for the angle of attaack up there. I hope that helps
@@carbonarne675 Yes, I do understand that drag increases faster than lift increases as you increase camber. My question concerns your use of the diagram at the 16:00 min mark which clearly shows you are decreasing the camber in the sail as you go from the bottom seam to the top seam of the sail. This is contrary to modern sailmaking practice, where camber increases as you ascend from the foot of the sail to the head. I am not aware of any sailmaker for RC sailboats, that actually decreases camber from the foot to the head of the sail.
@@richardhunter5734 not really. With this sail material a lot of shape comes from the bottom and highest seam. Imagin bottom and top seam to be at 7° what would happen if you put a large flat section in between with no camber? It will still be bend as dose the second. It's just a large second.