For a toilet flange to work properly and not leak, it first must be installed properly according to manufacturers specs. Meaning toilet flanges sit on top of the finished floor level, NOT FLUSH OR EQUAL TO THE FINISH FLOOR LEVEL, as your cutaway depicts. Most are about 1/4 inch thick which puts the top of the flange surface (where the wax ring sits) 1/4 inch above the finish floor in a level plane. Then it MUST BE screwed or bolted down to the sub floor structure with 4 brass or stainless steel fasteners (through the always provided holes in every flange), so that when the 2 closet bolts tighten down to compress the wax seal it is also being drawn down to the building structure and NOT simply attaching the toilet to the flange/piping. You should be familiar with that theory of transferring the load to the structure. All toilets are designed so that the horn (the lower outlet where waste exits) actually protrudes a slight amount down into the flange itself, same as when using a funnel to pour gasoline. Here's a good cut away example of how the flange/toilet work together, minus the wax ring filling in the void between the two. Note how the horn of toilet protrudes down into the flange. The toilet never touches the flange, just the wax and closet bolts. Toilet bowl bases are often cast with a not so flat/level base bottom and some tile floors are not always so smooth and level, so when they meet, you get a rocky toilet. Then it is up to the craftsman installing the toilet to shim it as needed to get it level and solid once the closet bolts are tightened. Some plumbers use a quick setting Plaster of Paris smeared under the base rim to fix this ..... I prefer to custom cut sheet lead shims inserted around/under the base to get it solid and level. .... from a 30 year retired plumber.
Thanks for the lead sheets shim idea I've use washers and I rarely see toilet flanges sitting on top of finished flooring unless they are the ones that are almost even with the floor anyway. Why, because you can add another wax ring if it's to low, but if they're to high, then the toilet will need shims or will rock from side to side. I'm also not a fan of the plaster of paris, because I've seen it crumble.
80% of the time we see the toilet flange(s) not fastened properly or at all IPC 402.6.3 402.6.2.. The percentage goes up to 90% on a slab (not tiled correctly). Our recommendation through the finished floor whether its tile, hardwood, engineered, LPV etc. We see this from licensed plumbers to builders to "DIYERS. The closet/toilet flange is the ONLY mechanical bond securing the toilet-the wax seal or another seal is ONLY for sewer gas/vapor. Silicone and caulk are only aesthetics- they should not be applied for a mechanical bond, seal, or entire permitter of the toilet base.
Can you provide us with the International Plumbing Code (IPC) reference number, I've never ever seen the toilet flange screws run through the finish flooring like tile. And thanks for the great tip about checking the toilet flange to make sure it's secured with screws to foundation.
@@proanswers Thanks for the response and I checked it out also. If you can, edit your comment to eliminate any confusion for viewers who don't read this. Great comment and thanks for sharing.
I can only offer video suggestions. If the toilet leaks after flushing, then it might be the wax ring, but you also need to check the water supply lines for leaks.
For a toilet flange to work properly and not leak, it first must be installed properly according to manufacturers specs. Meaning toilet flanges sit on top of the finished floor level, NOT FLUSH OR EQUAL TO THE FINISH FLOOR LEVEL, as your cutaway depicts. Most are about 1/4 inch thick which puts the top of the flange surface (where the wax ring sits) 1/4 inch above the finish floor in a level plane. Then it MUST BE screwed or bolted down to the sub floor structure with 4 brass or stainless steel fasteners (through the always provided holes in every flange), so that when the 2 closet bolts tighten down to compress the wax seal it is also being drawn down to the building structure and NOT simply attaching the toilet to the flange/piping. You should be familiar with that theory of transferring the load to the structure.
All toilets are designed so that the horn (the lower outlet where waste exits) actually protrudes a slight amount down into the flange itself, same as when using a funnel to pour gasoline. Here's a good cut away example of how the flange/toilet work together, minus the wax ring filling in the void between the two. Note how the horn of toilet protrudes down into the flange. The toilet never touches the flange, just the wax and closet bolts.
Toilet bowl bases are often cast with a not so flat/level base bottom and some tile floors are not always so smooth and level, so when they meet, you get a rocky toilet. Then it is up to the craftsman installing the toilet to shim it as needed to get it level and solid once the closet bolts are tightened. Some plumbers use a quick setting Plaster of Paris smeared under the base rim to fix this ..... I prefer to custom cut sheet lead shims inserted around/under the base to get it solid and level. .... from a 30 year retired plumber.
Thanks for the lead sheets shim idea I've use washers and I rarely see toilet flanges sitting on top of finished flooring unless they are the ones that are almost even with the floor anyway. Why, because you can add another wax ring if it's to low, but if they're to high, then the toilet will need shims or will rock from side to side. I'm also not a fan of the plaster of paris, because I've seen it crumble.
Excellent video as usual!😊
@gregvancom: Thank You. This is a superb explanation, and for the helpful commenters -- you know who you are, thank you too.
Wow! Thanks so much for this!!
Good follow up video.
More to come!
80% of the time we see the toilet flange(s) not fastened properly or at all IPC 402.6.3 402.6.2.. The percentage goes up to 90% on a slab (not tiled correctly). Our recommendation through the finished floor whether its tile, hardwood, engineered, LPV etc. We see this from licensed plumbers to builders to "DIYERS. The closet/toilet flange is the ONLY mechanical bond securing the toilet-the wax seal or another seal is ONLY for sewer gas/vapor. Silicone and caulk are only aesthetics- they should not be applied for a mechanical bond, seal, or entire permitter of the toilet base.
Can you provide us with the International Plumbing Code (IPC) reference number, I've never ever seen the toilet flange screws run through the finish flooring like tile. And thanks for the great tip about checking the toilet flange to make sure it's secured with screws to foundation.
@@proanswers Thanks for the response and I checked it out also. If you can, edit your comment to eliminate any confusion for viewers who don't read this. Great comment and thanks for sharing.
Can you tell me what is causing the leak in the bottom back of the commode. It doesn't leak when the water is off. Is it still the base or the wax?
I can only offer video suggestions. If the toilet leaks after flushing, then it might be the wax ring, but you also need to check the water supply lines for leaks.
Like 👍 all your videos
Always good to hear.