Insulation, Interior Walls & Painting | How to paint OSB Walls | Garage Build Series Part 6
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Insulation and vapour barrier goes up and I tackle the priming and painting of the OSB walls. All the final gas line alterations are completed as well.
Priming and painting OSB is tough work but the right materials and prep can make the work and final product much better.
1. On raw OSB, it's going to push the suggested primer square footage coverage to the max. Plan to overbuy primer by 20%.
2. If you want a smooth finish once you're done painting OSB, you will need to fill and sand the surface multiple times, and/or find a primer and paint with heavy self levelling attributes.
3. OSB strands will come loose. Use any flat tool to knock off strands that are poking out. If they stick out now, they will never stay down later.
4. If you are only priming, or only planning on painting 1 coat after primer, you should do 2 coats of primer. Keep in mind 2nd coats of the same primer/paint typically only consume 60% of what the first coat used.
5. Be generous with primer application. It will naturally fill the deeper, porous holes in the OSB sheeting which will make final paint coverage more effective and it will give you a more even finish.
Nice video! Kinda covered what I anticipated to come across when I decide to paint the shop at the house we just bought.
I plan on using Zinsser’s Bullseye Oil Based Primer and probably a semi-gloss paint as well. I’m hoping it will help reflect a lot of the light back and keep the area brighter for woodworking projects. For me, it’s always nice having your own little space that feels clean, neat and tidy.
I did a shed like this (10x8). I'm going to spray paint mine. I have large gaps too, and will fill the gaps, and maybe do some trim in the corners. Great video
I agree with you 100% on OSB for garage walls for the same reasons plus it adds a lot of strength, especially if you go horizontal with the sheets and stagger them, so then you don't need the sway braces taking up space anymore either that way. However, people with attached garage have no choice for the wall that joins the house. It must be plaster board and often thick for fire purposes.
I notice that you didn't but the 1/8" gap between the boards that they recommend and I'm thinking about not adding the 1/8" also.
One thing very different between the way you are doing it and I will be doing it. I will be simply doing the vertical walls and be using oil-based semi-gloss polyurethane right over the OSB. I get the natural look of wood and imperfections don't show. I don't have trusses or ceiling, and simply some 4x8s on rafters that covers the back half of a 2 1/2 stall hip roof garage that I use for seasonal storage. It has 7' studs with the standard double 2x4x7' studs on 24" centers and double 2x4s for the top and bottom plates with the bottom ones being creosoted. I have a gas furnace and 80 gallon air compressor and welder, but I also don't spend much time out there so I can't make a case for insulation or a ceiling.
You are right about the bottom of the garage falling apart. It's brick in the front, but the sides and back are black plasterboard. Also, critters gnaw through plasterboard like it's nothing. Before I put vinyl siding on it, I cut the bottom 2' off and went around it with plywood and foamed the seam and along the bottom on the inside. That has held up perfectly over time.
dam thats almost the exact lay out of my garage lol thx for the video very helpful
I've watched about a half-dozen UA-cam videos on "how to paint OSB", and this is the first one that actually tells you how to paint OSB! Very informative, thank you.
In Canada, does OSB have a rough side and a shiny side? If so, which side did you paint? The OSB I have doesn't have printing on it, but one side definitely has a slightly rougher surface and a side that is almost shiny. I'm tempted to have the shiny side facing in, but wondered if the paint would have a key to stick to, or would end up peeling off later.
Oh, and I had just one observation - don't point to what you are talking about. ;-) The camera focuses on your finger and the thing you're pointing at goes blurry. We have a joke in the UK, "Do you see that nail?", and it reminded me of that. ;-)
Ha! I'll remember the nail thing. Fair. The steepest part of the learning curve YouTubing is certainly the use of filming equipment and editing; not screwing with the lens focus being a part of that.
It's a good question about the OSB surface. I can't recall noticing one side of the material being any different than the other but for what it's worth, I absolutely remember how raw the wood strands were on the painting surface. It was rough enough to scrape your skin if you ran your hand along it. That said, a good primer should be able to penetrate and cover damn near any surface and from what I read prior to doing my owner project, people often opt for 2+ coats of just the primer. And, those primers are designed to bond. I'd be skeptical of a peeling scenario, but hey, I don't know how stuff works on that side of the pond.
@@FigureItAudi Thanks for the reply. The OSB I have seems very different from the stuff you see cladding the outside of new homes in construction - it's much smoother on both sides. Although one side is definitely smoother, the rough side is also pretty smooth, too, with very little evidence of strands. I might give it a light sanding as you suggest. The supplier says he ships it in from Scandinavia, so maybe I'll do a bit of research to see if it's a special kind.
In a lot of the US UA-cam videos, people referred to the "outside side" of the OSB (supposed to be installed facing away from the house), and the "inside side". Other than the difference in how it looks, nobody said why it's supposed to be installed that way.
Good luck with the UA-cam channel! I appreciate how much work people put in to making a decent video, and it's such a great source of useful information.
Borrow or rent an airless paint sprayer with a job that big, and simple color mix.😎👍 you would have spent more time letting paint dry then painting it.
Good tips! OSB walls, screws or nails in your opinion?
I'm looking into finishing the interior of a 24x26 double doors and attic space of 7x24
I think I might put some 1x3 on top of the insulation to have some proper screw/nail area and decent sheets joints..
But yeah, would you go screw a bunch or nailgun your life? 😆
Thanks
Secret door #3 (and keep in mind this is just me relaying what the installers told me when I asked about the fastening): Staples. These sheets are held in by large staples that are probably 2-3 inches long, shot into the framing. I'm not sure why they prefer it but I'm guessing the added surface area of the staple pinning the sheet down is somehow more secure than the other options. Probably worth some Googling. Thanks for the question, Bruno.
Wonder if it would look better if you rounded over all the corners of the OSB before putting it up so you have a consistent shadow line around each panel.
Hmmm,,,, interesting idea.
I probably would have spray gunned it, also i would have drywalled up high and used plywood down low.
Are you doing anything for a shop heater?
Great garage project, looking forward to the work benches amd interior stuff. What the next job on the B7? Have you done a carbon clean?
Ha, I'll tell you right now that the cash flow already dried up before I got to adding nice new work surfaces and storage. @BendPak , I could use some (a lot) of help over here.
It's a tough call on the next project. I have tons of part installs to choose from but winter is coming and I want to be sure that whatever I do next is very measurable and testable on the street. I won't be taking the B7 out of the garage after October, probably. I've got a nice chunk of billet I want to put in :).
If you painted your "man door" according to your wife's decision, you just converted it to a woman door!
Any rate, thanks. As you guessed, t was in fact confused about all the contradictory information on painting OSB, searching for some clarity. Your insight and visuals have been helpful.
Semi gloss is not passe , it does have it purposes like the one you mentioned.
Great job. I have almost done my basement gym. Used osb for same reasons you did. But - You just confirmed all my issues. Now if i were to do over i might not use osb. But if i did i would have used zinnser BIN shellac primer - exclusively. I used it to spot prime the printing but wish i had done the whole project. Super expensive but - Its one coat and done and no bleed through. My project is smaller so i caulked seems and screw heads. Re painting, i would swirl with the roller to get the inevitable holes - then straight roll over too. Doing final coats shortly. Project from hell. But many thanks.
Spray gun, could have given it 3 coats in 1 day and still had time to relax
For a garage that's about 1/3 or 1/4 the size of yours, would you have preferred to go with hardwood plywood? I do wonder if the cost of paint means that for smaller garages you can even go with something like veneered plywood.
Hey Phil - You raise an interesting question. Cost aside, there's usually some balance between form and function that works best for the space and for your personal tastes. Ex. A smaller garage might feel that much smaller with veneered plywood where its natural color comes through. Painting (a lighter color) helps reflect a lot of light, highlight items in the foreground, and [paint] may offer a different type of humidity/water control. I imagine the surface texture would be a little different across those different materials, too. Personally, I wouldn't have had it any other way. Just bigger :)
Hi. Did you do a lot of sanding on the osb?
Nope, basically none. In hindsight, all I would have done is a quick, rough pass to knock off any loose strands that would later come off during painting. I don't think OSB benefits from any real sanding.