I’ve purchased those, exactly the same 15mm and 20mm. The person who’s installing them told me today that the front rims rubs on those grey nots threaded and the he cannot install them. Bonoss rep is not responding but I’m afraid they sent me the wrong ones 😭
The 10mm bolt can be removed from the hub. All car manufacturers use them to mount the hub in the factory for convenience. The brake caliper and rotor holds it in place if it’s removed.
@@jesseesierra Yeah I don’t know how to explain it properly in English but the thing where you put the bonoss bolts, stands out a little bit and the rim touches it. Yes they did remove that little assembly screw
I know if you have performance, which I don’t believe you do cause I looked at your channel, you need 18mm front/20mm rear because the performance brakes push the hub out
What wheels are you running? Stock aero wheels? On Bonoss website they state “If the thickness of the wheel spacer is smaller than the length of the original studs, the rims used must allow for small hockets in the mounting surface of the rim. If using rims without enough hockets, the stock studs should be shortened so that they do not extend beyond the thickness of the spacer”
Cutting the stock lugs down is not ideal and irreversible. I did not have to modify my stock studs, they had cut outs that didn’t touch, it’s close but as long as they don’t touch.
The 2018 Tesla Model 3 offered LR RWD but was discontinued. It was the best EPA MPG so Tesla discontinued to make everyone pay that dual motor cost for LR. Otherwise everyone would’ve bought it for cheaper price.
So regarding torque spec, you did 103 spacer to hub, and 129 wheel to spacer? I read the forum and watched a few install videos, and many said to do the opposite. This is confusing, and logically speaking, wouldn’t it make sense to torque on to the wheel hub at OEM recommendation of 129, and then from wheel to spacers, using the spacer’s recommendation at 103? Because shouldn’t the torque spec be based on the bolt? What’s the reasoning behind doing it the other way around? Thanks!
My logic was, if you tighten the spacer nuts to the wheel hub at 129, you risk damaging the aluminum spacer/acorn seat where the nuts sit if it digs in too much. I wasn’t going to under-tighten my wheels to the spacer at 103 though. This is what I felt made the most sense. Anecdotally, I’ve put around 15k miles on with these spacers, tire rotations every 5k miles and checked torque specs, no issues. There’s always a risk running spacers and any modification that isn’t OEM, it’s all about risk management.
@@jesseesierra I see your point of view. Sorry for the long reply. I did talk to Bonoss’ rep regarding the torque on Teslas, and the way they explained it to me was the studs on their spacers have a spec of 103.5 ft lbs, same for their nuts. Tesla’s studs and nuts are 129 ft lbs. The ideal clamping force has to do with the mounting surface, so the same torque on different surfaces wouldn’t have the same clamping force. Tesla wants you to torque the wheels onto the OEM studs on the hub at 129 ft lb. And the OEM nuts are rated to take over 129 ft lb. But, because the spacers nuts aren’t OEM, Bonoss only guarantee it at 103.5 ft lb. Bonoss requires you to torque no more than 103.5 ft lbs on their studs to create the ideal clamping force. That’s why it’s correct to mount the wheels onto the spacers at 103.5, and both the studs and the OEM nuts are strong enough for it. Here’s the main issue, while the OEM studs are rated to take 129 ft lb, Bonoss’ provided nuts aren’t according to them. That’s why they limit that portion to 103.5. But I did check their nuts’ grade and spec, and it actually goes much higher than 140 ft lb. So because of this, I’d feel safe torquing their nuts to 129 onto the OEM studs, so it can create the ideal clamping force. However if you reversed this, I’m not so sure you can put 129 ft lb of force onto Bonoss’ studs even thou they are probably strong enough as well, but because you are putting too much clamping force onto the spacers when they recommend 103.5, and not enough onto the OEM studs which is 129. Again, same amount of torque does not create the same amount of clamping force on different surfaces. I do agree with the possibility of damaging the acorn seats, but wouldn’t putting too much force on the surface of the spacers create the same risk? I’ve seen people torque wheels on cheap spacers and they cracked the surface. And that’s what lead me to ordering the 7075-T6 version of the spacers from Bonoss directly, it’s way overkill in strength and the wheels will have to fail before the spacers do. I’ll probably follow OEM spec on the OEM studs, and the recommended specs on the spacers’ studs.
@@sganet_ read this thread on the forum. teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/requesting-blox-spacers-reviews-inputs.156918/page-6 I made this video before the posts on the 6th page were made that I’m referencing. Someone made a similar conclusion as me and probably where I gathered my initial info from previous posts in that thread. They have an email from Bonoss but the interpretation is still up for debate. They even reference RPMTesla saying to do 100ft lbs of torque on both spacers and wheels.
@@jesseesierra I see your post in there, and if you look at the earlier reply where someone had the Bonoss rep’s comments in there saying “…we recommend 103.5 for M14x1.5 thread based on international standard, but most of customers use factory torque to install the wheel spacers…” So he basically said it’s fine to use OEM torque spec when installing the wheel spacer to the hub. But I’m trying to say that 129 ft lb is Tesla’s spec when mounting to the OEM stud, that’s the torque it needs to stay secure under load. Putting only 103 ft lb may not be enough. It probably won’t come off easily, I just think there’s an increased risk to under torque it by that much. I’ve had wheels not torqued properly by a tire shop and the wheel started walking off the hub on the freeway. Also since both studs (hub and spacer) have the same grade and size, essentially both can take over 140 ft lb. So that means 129 is not an issue. It’s also very difficult for 6061-T6 to break.
@@jesseesierra there are several factors that will lead to stripping the nuts. 1. not using extension bar while using a torque wrench. 2. Using Spline socket instead of 6 point ones. 3. putting acorn nuts reverse If you do one of those 3, you will damage the nuts. Wheels are only held by those nuts and they are life savers and they need to be torqued at 129.
Why didn’t you use thread locker when installing them? At minimum, hand tool strength blue thread lock. It’s kind of dangerous not to use thread locker.
I’ve watched a spacer install by Ken Gushi who used some basic blue thread locker on the OEM studs to mount the spacers, but not the studs to mount the wheels. He also used anti seize on the back of spacers. That’s basically how I’ve done all my spacer installs in the past, spacers were all removed down the road without issues. I think re-torquing after 100-200 miles is probably more important.
Yeah, that could happen because you’re creating more drag with a lower offset but I don’t track my range like that. I just drive and charge when needed.
what do you do with the 10mm bolt that you remove? is it needed if you were to remove the spacers later?
I left mine off. It’s used by the factory during assembly to hold the rotor to the hub. The brake caliper hold its in place.
So that bolt is totally fine too remove? Makes me nervous to remove a bolt.
I’ve purchased those, exactly the same 15mm and 20mm. The person who’s installing them told me today that the front rims rubs on those grey nots threaded and the he cannot install them. Bonoss rep is not responding but I’m afraid they sent me the wrong ones 😭
The 10mm bolt can be removed from the hub. All car manufacturers use them to mount the hub in the factory for convenience. The brake caliper and rotor holds it in place if it’s removed.
@@jesseesierra Yeah I don’t know how to explain it properly in English but the thing where you put the bonoss bolts, stands out a little bit and the rim touches it. Yes they did remove that little assembly screw
I know if you have performance, which I don’t believe you do cause I looked at your channel, you need 18mm front/20mm rear because the performance brakes push the hub out
What wheels are you running? Stock aero wheels? On Bonoss website they state “If the thickness of the wheel spacer is smaller than the length of the original studs, the rims used must allow for small hockets in the mounting surface of the rim. If using rims without enough hockets, the stock studs should be shortened so that they do not extend beyond the thickness of the spacer”
Cutting the stock lugs down is not ideal and irreversible. I did not have to modify my stock studs, they had cut outs that didn’t touch, it’s close but as long as they don’t touch.
I didn’t know there was such thing as a model 3 long range with rwd. I thought all the long range models come with awd?
The 2018 Tesla Model 3 offered LR RWD but was discontinued. It was the best EPA MPG so Tesla discontinued to make everyone pay that dual motor cost for LR. Otherwise everyone would’ve bought it for cheaper price.
What is the factory offset, and with the spacers...what is it now?
Factory specs for aero wheels is 18x8.5”, +40 offset. With the spacers I’m at Front: +25 & Rear: +20
So regarding torque spec, you did 103 spacer to hub, and 129 wheel to spacer? I read the forum and watched a few install videos, and many said to do the opposite. This is confusing, and logically speaking, wouldn’t it make sense to torque on to the wheel hub at OEM recommendation of 129, and then from wheel to spacers, using the spacer’s recommendation at 103? Because shouldn’t the torque spec be based on the bolt? What’s the reasoning behind doing it the other way around? Thanks!
My logic was, if you tighten the spacer nuts to the wheel hub at 129, you risk damaging the aluminum spacer/acorn seat where the nuts sit if it digs in too much. I wasn’t going to under-tighten my wheels to the spacer at 103 though. This is what I felt made the most sense. Anecdotally, I’ve put around 15k miles on with these spacers, tire rotations every 5k miles and checked torque specs, no issues. There’s always a risk running spacers and any modification that isn’t OEM, it’s all about risk management.
@@jesseesierra I see your point of view. Sorry for the long reply. I did talk to Bonoss’ rep regarding the torque on Teslas, and the way they explained it to me was the studs on their spacers have a spec of 103.5 ft lbs, same for their nuts. Tesla’s studs and nuts are 129 ft lbs. The ideal clamping force has to do with the mounting surface, so the same torque on different surfaces wouldn’t have the same clamping force.
Tesla wants you to torque the wheels onto the OEM studs on the hub at 129 ft lb. And the OEM nuts are rated to take over 129 ft lb. But, because the spacers nuts aren’t OEM, Bonoss only guarantee it at 103.5 ft lb.
Bonoss requires you to torque no more than 103.5 ft lbs on their studs to create the ideal clamping force. That’s why it’s correct to mount the wheels onto the spacers at 103.5, and both the studs and the OEM nuts are strong enough for it.
Here’s the main issue, while the OEM studs are rated to take 129 ft lb, Bonoss’ provided nuts aren’t according to them. That’s why they limit that portion to 103.5. But I did check their nuts’ grade and spec, and it actually goes much higher than 140 ft lb. So because of this, I’d feel safe torquing their nuts to 129 onto the OEM studs, so it can create the ideal clamping force.
However if you reversed this, I’m not so sure you can put 129 ft lb of force onto Bonoss’ studs even thou they are probably strong enough as well, but because you are putting too much clamping force onto the spacers when they recommend 103.5, and not enough onto the OEM studs which is 129. Again, same amount of torque does not create the same amount of clamping force on different surfaces.
I do agree with the possibility of damaging the acorn seats, but wouldn’t putting too
much force on the surface of the spacers create the same risk? I’ve seen people torque wheels on cheap spacers and they cracked the surface.
And that’s what lead me to ordering the 7075-T6 version of the spacers from Bonoss directly, it’s way overkill in strength and the wheels will have to fail before the spacers do. I’ll probably follow OEM spec on the OEM studs, and the recommended specs on the spacers’ studs.
@@sganet_ read this thread on the forum.
teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/requesting-blox-spacers-reviews-inputs.156918/page-6
I made this video before the posts on the 6th page were made that I’m referencing. Someone made a similar conclusion as me and probably where I gathered my initial info from previous posts in that thread. They have an email from Bonoss but the interpretation is still up for debate. They even reference RPMTesla saying to do 100ft lbs of torque on both spacers and wheels.
@@jesseesierra I see your post in there, and if you look at the earlier reply where someone had the Bonoss rep’s comments in there saying “…we recommend 103.5 for M14x1.5 thread based on international standard, but most of customers use factory torque to install the wheel spacers…”
So he basically said it’s fine to use OEM torque spec when installing the wheel spacer to the hub. But I’m trying to say that 129 ft lb is Tesla’s spec when mounting to the OEM stud, that’s the torque it needs to stay secure under load. Putting only 103 ft lb may not be enough. It probably won’t come off easily, I just think there’s an increased risk to under torque it by that much. I’ve had wheels not torqued properly by a tire shop and the wheel started walking off the hub on the freeway.
Also since both studs (hub and spacer) have the same grade and size, essentially both can take over 140 ft lb. So that means 129 is not an issue. It’s also very difficult for 6061-T6 to break.
@@jesseesierra there are several factors that will lead to stripping the nuts.
1. not using extension bar while using a torque wrench.
2. Using Spline socket instead of 6 point ones.
3. putting acorn nuts reverse
If you do one of those 3, you will damage the nuts.
Wheels are only held by those nuts and they are life savers and they need to be torqued at 129.
Why didn’t you use thread locker when installing them? At minimum, hand tool strength blue thread lock. It’s kind of dangerous not to use thread locker.
I would never use thread locker on lug bolts. I torqued to spec and check every tire rotation.
I’ve watched a spacer install by Ken Gushi who used some basic blue thread locker on the OEM studs to mount the spacers, but not the studs to mount the wheels. He also used anti seize on the back of spacers. That’s basically how I’ve done all my spacer installs in the past, spacers were all removed down the road without issues. I think re-torquing after 100-200 miles is probably more important.
Did it made any difference to handling?
I didn’t notice a difference. Running camber would impact handling more.
I installed mine about a month ago but it seems like my driving range has decreased by 10 miles at 80% SOC
Yeah, that could happen because you’re creating more drag with a lower offset but I don’t track my range like that. I just drive and charge when needed.
what's ur camber specs tho?
I didn’t adjust camber. You wouldn’t notice a difference with this size spacers.
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