I bought this exact Lynx from this guy and i've used it for around 4000 km now and I can't emphasize this enough : this wheel is super reliable , not a single issue with it hardware wise , its a freaking tank and I love it . I had a ton of issues with my sherman-s but leaper kim really improved their designs with the lynx . Great wheel and great vendor :)
Excellent tutorial! Straight and to the point. Playing the video in reverse to show the reassembly was genius. I will save this video for future reference. Cheers!
Just a heads up. Make sure you pull apart the correct side. I didn't realise that I did the opposite side to him in the video and the last two screws for the mud guard cannot be undone from the right side of the wheel. Now I need to reassemble and redo everything 😂
I know there is me and my skill level which is decent but there is also the tire. My Kenda nobby still has quite a bit of wobble to it and it's a bit sketchy at about 40 miles an hour. Anyone have any thoughts on the Shingo 244? Thank you for this great straightforward video. I am no longer concerned about changing the tire myself.
@@boblatkey7160 My friend has the same problem with the Kenda, i have no problem riding at 40mph with the Shinko but it seems to eat about 20% of the range compared to the Michelin street
@@MathieuTechMoto oh cool, thanks for letting me know! I don't really like going super fast anyways and we have super nice dirt firebreak trails that I love blasting on so range isn't as important to me. Thanks again!
this is great for next time 🙂 I watched a different vid and they inserted the tube AFTER one side of the bead is in, that was hard on my fingers trying to get the valve in!
Oui L841 je cherchais justement le nom de ce pneu, si tu ne fais pas ou très peu de hors route prend le pneu street, il est silencieux, stable, maniable, et semble bien user !
Nice video but some critique, for important screws such as motor screws for example you need to apply Loctite and torque them to spec using a torque wrench, also need to be gentle screwing screws into plastic (and never use Loctite on plastic). The suspension clamp can easily dethread and you need to take great care torquing them bit by bit while making sure the clamp is straight.
@@MathieuTechMoto I see, easy to miss, torque specs are not in the manual though, community got them from replacement screws provided by LeaperKim, not trying to be difficult with you, just factually correct, these things are important IMO 😊
I bought this exact Lynx from this guy and i've used it for around 4000 km now and I can't emphasize this enough : this wheel is super reliable , not a single issue with it hardware wise , its a freaking tank and I love it . I had a ton of issues with my sherman-s but leaper kim really improved their designs with the lynx . Great wheel and great vendor :)
Thank you !
Excellent tutorial! Straight and to the point. Playing the video in reverse to show the reassembly was genius. I will save this video for future reference. Cheers!
Glad you you enjoyed , cheers !
Just a heads up. Make sure you pull apart the correct side. I didn't realise that I did the opposite side to him in the video and the last two screws for the mud guard cannot be undone from the right side of the wheel. Now I need to reassemble and redo everything 😂
I did that once, i was laughing of rage ...
I just found this out the hard way as well 🤦🏽♂️
2:00 you don’t have to remove the motor bolts. It’s always been my philosophy that any time you can avoid it it’s safer to. Great video!
You can remove the 4 smaller screws around the perimeter and the plastic part slides out.
Thank you for the tip !
ABSOLUTELY STUNNING! I did use baby lube and powder instead of soap, it was SO EASY!! Thank you!
Glad i could help, congrats !
3:34 - that’s right, apply that oil, but slower. Slooowwwwwweeerrrrrr
Great vid.
I'm sorry, i should have lit some candles with erotic music, damn why haven't i thought of that !
Hahahaha it took my 10 seconds to get the joke
You made it look so easy!! So good tutorial! It took me 1h to remove the tire from the rim on the v13!
It always look easier on video, but it was not so bad, it too like 15 minutes to remove and reinstall the new tire
@@MathieuTechMoto I just got mine a day ago. I notice you have an inner tube. I thought that the Lynx were tubeless or am I missing something?
@@RunnerTides75 I received mine with tube i just converted to tubeless Shinko 244
Such a well made simple tutorial. Thanks for this! You make me even more proud to own a Lynx
Thank you :)
Got mine on the way with street tire, will change to nobby soon, and this'll come in real handy!
Both tires are great !
such a well built wheel. cant wait for mine!
Indeed !
I just mine yesterday.
Bravo Mathieu, belle vidéo! Merci
Fait plaisir !
Thank for the nice tutorial! Why you went back to the nobby tier?
This was for someone who want to ride in the trails
I know there is me and my skill level which is decent but there is also the tire. My Kenda nobby still has quite a bit of wobble to it and it's a bit sketchy at about 40 miles an hour. Anyone have any thoughts on the Shingo 244? Thank you for this great straightforward video. I am no longer concerned about changing the tire myself.
@@boblatkey7160 My friend has the same problem with the Kenda, i have no problem riding at 40mph with the Shinko but it seems to eat about 20% of the range compared to the Michelin street
@@MathieuTechMoto oh cool, thanks for letting me know! I don't really like going super fast anyways and we have super nice dirt firebreak trails that I love blasting on so range isn't as important to me. Thanks again!
this is great for next time 🙂
I watched a different vid and they inserted the tube AFTER one side of the bead is in, that was hard on my fingers trying to get the valve in!
That's what i did first, there's no way my fingers would have made it without being injured
The handle on the trolly doesn't need to be completely removed, only the side you are working on :)
Thank you for the tip, i actually did that the second time
interesting, I didnt bother removing the mounting block that's on the rim cause afraid of ruining it, just the plastic bit that's on the outside
I don't understand, how could you remove only the plastic ? as it's under the mounting block
@@MathieuTechMoto yeah once you undo the screw to that plastic, it can just be pulled/pushed? and slide it out of the way
@@neo3exe Oh maybe gonna try that next time, thanks for the tip !
Bonjour Mathieu, c'est le pneu street L841 d'Ewheels? Alors tu préfères lequel comparé au Kenda?
Oui L841 je cherchais justement le nom de ce pneu, si tu ne fais pas ou très peu de hors route prend le pneu street, il est silencieux, stable, maniable, et semble bien user !
Nice video but some critique, for important screws such as motor screws for example you need to apply Loctite and torque them to spec using a torque wrench, also need to be gentle screwing screws into plastic (and never use Loctite on plastic). The suspension clamp can easily dethread and you need to take great care torquing them bit by bit while making sure the clamp is straight.
No need for torque wrench to unscrew, you probably didn't see that the reassembly is just the video in reverse
@@MathieuTechMoto for reassembly, of course.
@@RonnieRides You are right, that's why i left a note at 5:09 :)
@@MathieuTechMoto I see, easy to miss, torque specs are not in the manual though, community got them from replacement screws provided by LeaperKim, not trying to be difficult with you, just factually correct, these things are important IMO 😊
@@RonnieRides Thank you to help me improve my content !
Great video!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed !
Damn bro you are the best
Thank you !
What a right time! My lynx will be here this weekend and yes I'm changing tyre... This is so perfect 👍 thank you :)
Glad i've got the timing right !