Thanks for the tutorial. I've had the A8 for 2 months installed Marlin about a month ago. Manual bed leveling and keeping it level has always been one of my biggest pains. If I level the corners I do get excess in middle of bed and this would take care of that. Mostly affects adhesion and thin prints. I mounted the printer to a flat surface 2 weeks ago and that helped allot with it staying level. But still had to play with the middle or corner thing. Was thinking that's why they use glass. But that kinda scares me. Was looking though configuration.h but had no clue what "MESH_BED_LEVELING" was. Who knew you could fix it in the menu. :) Others who are new to this with an A8. Forget printing all the braces and stuff. Mount the printer securely to a flat but movable surface. That really did help from day one. Again thanks allot.
Followed your tutorial on flashing Marlin....had a driver issue and 'sync errors' while trying to upload. Looked at the option of using an arduino to flash - had same error and ended up downloading 'CH341SER' drivers for the chip on my clone Arduino. .... that made the Arduino work so I thought I maybe just had a driver error for the Anet board....Tried it with the CH341 drivers and bingo - uploaded and working. Made the levelling changes and re-uploaded and WOW. So much better than messing with a screwdriver or thumbscrews. Thanks for all the info!!!
I have been watching lots and lots of Utube videos on 3D printers the last 2 weeks, and IMHO your channel have the best balance between knowledge, experience and common sense. Yesterday I ordered my A8 clone and I've decided to subscribe to your channel - tada ! I also registered on Thingiverse.com as I'll need quite a few of the common hardware upgrades along the way. Thanks for all your videos, they are much appreciated, keep them coming :-)
Really nice to hear that you are joining the train. I also think that the Anet A8 is the best printer to learn how 3D printers work. It is certainly not the best printer and the Ender 3 is probably easier to build but it also is probably for a different target group. Anyway, keep upgrading that thing to the max. Happy printing!
You have saved me alot of headaches, thank you. I was re-leveling my bed on 4 points manually with thumbwheels every time but it wasn't a true indication of the bed plane. Since doing this I can print from cold start and don't need to touch the printer. I have just reflashed all 3 of my printers with this. Prints are turning out far better than before!!
Hi Daniel, "hallo!" may I say if I recognized correctly your german accent(!?). Anyway, you really rock as a teacher, with cristal clear explanations, and you have the hability (intelligence!) to clarify and simplify those complicated lines of commands in Marlin: just a thousand thanks for that! I know I'm coming really late after your video, but I only saw it 2 days ago... I have a precise question for you: I did all you described, also for the #986 (#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28). But I tried it (I have an Anet A8 with a V 1.5 board), the manual mesh leveling is perfect, and so are my prints afterwards! ---> BUT... if I shut off my printer, the next time I'm launching a new print...the bed is not leveled anymore....I must re-do the complete manual bed leveling again.... ---> it seems that the leveling is NOT written in the EEPROM, although I had uncomment the line #986 (#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28) and click on "Store settings" on the LCD panel.... ANY IDEAS? Thanks again, vielen Dank, hope you'll be able to see my questions and answer it...
i’ve watched a couple of these…and maybe it’s obvious so not stated…but it should be manually four corner leveled as close as possible prior to mesh probing…don’t think this is a substitute for getting your bed as square as possible to your machine…good video
Matteo Mazzolini, thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
it used to do this for me when i used bilinear bed leveling but now it doesnt even show an option to level the bed even with the bed leveling enabled in the code. When I have the mesh bed leveling it shows a level bed option but it doesn't actually level the bed when I press it, it just goes to home
Hi, crosslink. Love your channel. I've done many upgrades to my A8, and offcourse by watching many of your vids. One question: Did you remove your z anis end switch? Greetings
Hi Daniel further to my comment below, I hav done bed levelling as the video shown my text print cube of 20mm does x and y of 20mm but my z axis of 19.8mm, how can I adjust the z axis to make it rint 20mm also please
HI,good Video straight to the point. I do have question thiugh If sometime in feuture you install a bltouch do you have to disable it again or leave it alone
it looks like my Anet A8 doesn't save the auto leveling, when I press on store settings nothings happened and when I do a re-bed leveling it is always starts from the beginning! what am doing wrong?
Thanks for your great support, so I have an issue, My first point is off the Bed (nozzle is a little bit further to the front than my Heat Bed), I guess i have to align it somehow on the 0s of the machine, but i dont know how. PLEASE HELP!
Hey, awesome video. Sweet resource for anet a8 and plus owners! Do you happen to have a cura profile for petg on the plus? Having a very hard time dialing it in
Thanks for the tutorial, I performed this setup, but when I click the store settings, I don’t get a confirmation beep or anything. Ps I have the stock lcd display.
Is there a way to shrink the mesh size as the nozzle just misses the print bed edges when I level the bed, I have a 220 x 220 glass bed with corners cut (to clear the screws)
Hi! You mention a probe-offset in your automatic bed leveling videos, is there something like that in manual mode possible in marlin? I want to do manual mesh bed leveling with an dial gauge, but this dial gauge has an offset of 38mm on the y axis with respect to the nozzle. Help is very appreciated! Love your videos!
Hi, I have a problem with hitting the clips I have around my glass. Is there a way to adjust distance from all edges and keep all 9 points. What I tried to do is look at marlin software and saw a line that says inset from edges and tried to upload this to Machine But keep getting error 'Marlin' does not name a type can you help? thanks Bill
just use the menu to move the nozzle around all four edges. skip the points in between and adjust just the edge distance with the screws. Then repeat the mes bed leveling process and fine tune the distance with the menu. Will update this video soon with an easier process.
***UPDATE*** seems like I had to add "m420 s" to g-code, too...strange Does the "save settings" save the state of bedleveling, too? I mean if it's "on" or "off". That is the only explaination for me. That it was turned off and I saved. ***UPDATE*** Hey Daniel maybe you can help me. I have marlin 2.0 and the problem that it loads the data from the saved meshbedleveling after g28. But it's turned of and I have to turn it on by hand. If I forget -> scratched surface :/ So I need to home it by hand -> menuepoint appears to turn bedleveling "on" or "off" (before g28 it's not visible) -> turn to "on" -> it works on the next print. Just turn on no need to load settings by hand...loading seems to work.
Hi cross link, Got an error uploading the firmware with the changes for enabling mesh leveling. It says the file is too big and it errors sending to anet 1.0 Please help
In Configuration.h at around line 1075 you can configure the mesh granularity: #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited. #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
I'm getting a "Sketch too big error." How were you able to retain your SD Card Functionality without having too large of a sketch to upload to the ANET? I am able to upload my sketch with Mesh Bed Leveling enabled, but only if I disable SDCARD. Thanks.
Hi, Daniel, thanks for shared with us, i have a question, how can i check if the mesh bed leveling is active or working ?, i was follow your instructions step by step but when i shutdown my printer and starting new printting job the first layer has print wrong, can you help me?, regards...
This I would like to know as well. After performing a manual bed-leveling in the display it says somthing like bed-leveling activated (can't check the correct message actually because I'm printing). If I switch off Anet and switch it on and open bed-leveling menue, this message doesn't appear, not right away nor if I press load settings. How can I know if bed-leveling is still activated? Just trial and error, like it happened to Mauricio?
There is two ways to activate it. In the firmware you can activate RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. This means every time after you home with G28, basically every time a new print starts, the mesh is getting loaded automatically. If you don't switch that on you have to use the "M420 S" command right after G28 every time you start a new print. This should be put in your slicer startup gcode scripts section.
Don't forget to save the settings with the "Store settings" menu option after you do the leveling. Otherwise your settings are gone after powering down your printer.
@@Crosslink3D , thank you for your answer. But this you described already in the video. The question was more, if there is an indication, that after G28 Bed-Leveling is still active. Indication like after doing a new bed-leveling, when it's indicated in the marlin bed-leveling menu by the index "bed-leveling activated". I activated RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28, I save after leveling with the mentioned Store settings, but after any G28 or after switching printer off and on it doesn't tell me anymore that bed-leveling is activated. Should it do so, or do you have the same behaviour?
Ive had Marlin installed and have been using the bed leveling option in the menu on the stock lcd. I havent had a problem until this morning, when i was doing the bed leveling, after adjusting point 1/9, i click the ok button, then my lcd screen goes blank, and wont do anything, it gets kinda stuck instead of moving to point 2/9. Any ideas on why its doing this? EDIT: i wrote black instead of blank. The screen stays lit up, but shows no text of any kind.
What probe are you using if any? Are you doing manual or auto mesh bed leveling? How much vertical difference in mm is there between the probe triggering and the printer nozzle hitting the bed. Should be less than 2mm, this is set int the firmware. Diffs larger than 2mm also cause this.
@@Crosslink3D I posted this problem a few places inclusing Facebook and UA-cam, but forgot to post everywhere after I fixed it. I don't have a probe, I use the bed leveling option in the lcd menu, but adjust manually. I wasn't having an issue, then 1 morning, it started freezing like I explained in my comment. I tried to reflash Marlin firmware, but was getting a compilation error, which led me to believe that an issue was due to me using the Windows 10 Arduino app. Not the original. After I installed the Arduino IDE and reflashed Marlin, I haven't had a problem since. So for now, I've put it down to the crappy win 10 IDE. Hopefully this won't happen again, but time will tell. Thanks for replying though. You videos have been very helpful.
i am a bit confused with this what if i need to lower the nozzle at 1 or more points but the end stop is triggered? i cannot do it r am i missing something ? would i need the z stop lower than the bed? in order to be able to do this or does the nozzle lift up off the end stop before you start and you just lower it to where its needed?
no, you have a bit of play between when the endstop actually triggers and when it cannot be pushed further down. that is what you have to work with in terms of micro adjustments.
Hi man can you help. My. Saved settings in eeprom don't auto load once turned. Off I have to click on turn on bed leveling each time I have everything enabled you said hope you can help
@@Crosslink3D Hi man thanks for the reply i have it fixed now i did have every thing exactly as you said it was what i have to do is click save 3 times and it works dont know why but i have a new lcd screen coming soon and that has a buzzer on for confirmation thanks for the help. my channel ua-cam.com/users/Beta250trials
Hi mate. Just had a question if someone could help me out. Ive got an anet a8 with a warped heated bed. I have been able to get around the issue with glass and some clips to hold it in place, but levelling has been a constant issue. Ive updated the firmware to marlin 1.1, but am a little confused. If the printer homes all axis before starting the lcd bed leveling process, i think the nozzle would hit the bed or stop due to reaching the z limit switch. In the middle of your video, i think you were talking about this, but I have to be sure before starting. If i level the corners of the bed, so that its level and at z0, im guessing i would have to raise the z limit switch higher so that the nozzle could reach the lower points in the center of the bed, and then store those values in eprom as you mentioned? Meaning that in future, the firmware would just remember those values, and when homing the axis in future, it should never reach the limit switch, but return to the stored values from the lcd bed leveling process?
For anyone needing help for this problem in the future. Simply level you bed so that the nozzle is too low to get the paper underneath, but nit so low to damage the nozzle or bed, then use the bed leveling in the menu on the printer and move the z axis upwards to the correct height
Yes, this could work. In general it's a problem if you hit the z axis switch and don't have enough room to lower the nozzle. The only way to resolve this physical hard stop is to use another sensor like the inductive, capacitive or bltouch probes. The inductive is probably the easiest and cheapest solution. You can connect it to the board directly and it's very reliable unless you want to print on glass. There I would use the bltouch or 3d touch which works with any surface.
You mean the Mainboard version? I had to turn off some features to make it work. And you will need to flash the optiboot bootloader, which only works using a programmer.
![Manual Mesh Bed Leveling For Marlin Firmware [Fix For Warped Beds!]](/img/n.gif)
Three years of tinkering! Wish I found your channel back then! Thank you so much my prints have gone from possible to awesome
Thanks for the tutorial. I've had the A8 for 2 months installed Marlin about a month ago. Manual bed leveling and keeping it level has always been one of my biggest pains. If I level the corners I do get excess in middle of bed and this would take care of that. Mostly affects adhesion and thin prints. I mounted the printer to a flat surface 2 weeks ago and that helped allot with it staying level. But still had to play with the middle or corner thing. Was thinking that's why they use glass. But that kinda scares me. Was looking though configuration.h but had no clue what "MESH_BED_LEVELING" was. Who knew you could fix it in the menu. :) Others who are new to this with an A8. Forget printing all the braces and stuff. Mount the printer securely to a flat but movable surface. That really did help from day one. Again thanks allot.
I can relate , bed levelling is a nightmare!. xixixi!
Followed your tutorial on flashing Marlin....had a driver issue and 'sync errors' while trying to upload. Looked at the option of using an arduino to flash - had same error and ended up downloading 'CH341SER' drivers for the chip on my clone Arduino. .... that made the Arduino work so I thought I maybe just had a driver error for the Anet board....Tried it with the CH341 drivers and bingo - uploaded and working. Made the levelling changes and re-uploaded and WOW. So much better than messing with a screwdriver or thumbscrews. Thanks for all the info!!!
I have been watching lots and lots of Utube videos on 3D printers the last 2 weeks, and IMHO your channel have the best balance between knowledge, experience and common sense.
Yesterday I ordered my A8 clone and I've decided to subscribe to your channel - tada !
I also registered on Thingiverse.com as I'll need quite a few of the common hardware upgrades along the way.
Thanks for all your videos, they are much appreciated, keep them coming :-)
Really nice to hear that you are joining the train. I also think that the Anet A8 is the best printer to learn how 3D printers work. It is certainly not the best printer and the Ender 3 is probably easier to build but it also is probably for a different target group. Anyway, keep upgrading that thing to the max. Happy printing!
You have saved me alot of headaches, thank you. I was re-leveling my bed on 4 points manually with thumbwheels every time but it wasn't a true indication of the bed plane. Since doing this I can print from cold start and don't need to touch the printer. I have just reflashed all 3 of my printers with this. Prints are turning out far better than before!!
Absolutely helpful!
Keep on making videos
You got a subscriber
Thank you for giving me the key to mesh bed leveling. Subbed.
YesUCan, great comment! Thanks for being part of the community!
Hi Daniel, "hallo!" may I say if I recognized correctly your german accent(!?).
Anyway, you really rock as a teacher, with cristal clear explanations, and you have the hability (intelligence!) to clarify and simplify those complicated lines of commands in Marlin: just a thousand thanks for that!
I know I'm coming really late after your video, but I only saw it 2 days ago... I have a precise question for you: I did all you described, also for the #986 (#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28).
But I tried it (I have an Anet A8 with a V 1.5 board), the manual mesh leveling is perfect, and so are my prints afterwards!
---> BUT... if I shut off my printer, the next time I'm launching a new print...the bed is not leveled anymore....I must re-do the complete manual bed leveling again....
---> it seems that the leveling is NOT written in the EEPROM, although I had uncomment the line #986 (#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28) and click on "Store settings" on the LCD panel.... ANY IDEAS?
Thanks again, vielen Dank, hope you'll be able to see my questions and answer it...
This was actually very informative and helpful video, thanks!
Thanks! ❤️ Love to see all kinds of comments and suggestions
Best tutorial for noobs Thank YOU !
i’ve watched a couple of these…and maybe it’s obvious so not stated…but it should be manually four corner leveled as close as possible prior to mesh probing…don’t think this is a substitute for getting your bed as square as possible to your machine…good video
Absolutely adjust the corner distance before any further bed leveling. Also applies if you have a probe
I appreciate a lot your video 🦊
Thank you very much! I should enable it on my DIY 3D printer
I probably should have done this instead of ABL. ABL is often a headache for me. This makes manual bed leveling easy and gives better results.
Thank you bro !!! I do it in my CR10S !! Top !!!!
Matteo Mazzolini, thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
Keep the vids going!!
www.patreon.com/posts/23337031 soon 😁
I have just released my howto video how to fix broken bootloaders and other issues with firmware flashing: ua-cam.com/video/RQIizXtf9oo/v-deo.html
it used to do this for me when i used bilinear bed leveling but now it doesnt even show an option to level the bed even with the bed leveling enabled in the code. When I have the mesh bed leveling it shows a level bed option but it doesn't actually level the bed when I press it, it just goes to home
Tks man!
Hi, crosslink. Love your channel.
I've done many upgrades to my A8, and offcourse by watching many of your vids.
One question:
Did you remove your z anis end switch?
Greetings
Hi Daniel further to my comment below, I hav done bed levelling as the video shown my text print cube of 20mm does x and y of 20mm but my z axis of 19.8mm, how can I adjust the z axis to make it rint 20mm also please
HI,good Video straight to the point. I do have question thiugh If sometime in feuture you install a bltouch do you have to disable it again or leave it alone
it looks like my Anet A8 doesn't save the auto leveling, when I press on store settings nothings happened and when I do a re-bed leveling it is always starts from the beginning! what am doing wrong?
Hi how do you please do a home xyz please on the marlin 1.1.9 on Anet a8
Thanks for your great support, so I have an issue, My first point is off the Bed (nozzle is a little bit further to the front than my Heat Bed), I guess i have to align it somehow on the 0s of the machine, but i dont know how.
PLEASE HELP!
Hey, awesome video. Sweet resource for anet a8 and plus owners!
Do you happen to have a cura profile for petg on the plus? Having a very hard time dialing it in
My printer homed the z in mid air and is sitting there waiting for me to level it. Somewhere around 5 inches above the bed. Any advice?
Not having enough memory on the anet Board. Please help Daniel
Hey Daniel do you now what is the proper distance of the nozlle from the bed for the anet a8 .I want to mezure it with a prometer.Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the tutorial, I performed this setup, but when I click the store settings, I don’t get a confirmation beep or anything. Ps I have the stock lcd display.
Yes, that's normal unfortunately. The stock display has no beeper and there is no visual confirmation 😔
Ok thanks again for the tutorial:)
Is there a way to shrink the mesh size as the nozzle just misses the print bed edges when I level the bed, I have a 220 x 220 glass bed with corners cut (to clear the screws)
+1
Hi! You mention a probe-offset in your automatic bed leveling videos, is there something like that in manual mode possible in marlin? I want to do manual mesh bed leveling with an dial gauge, but this dial gauge has an offset of 38mm on the y axis with respect to the nozzle. Help is very appreciated! Love your videos!
Hi, I have a problem with hitting the clips I have around my glass. Is there a way to adjust distance from all edges and keep all 9 points. What I tried to do is look at marlin software and saw a line that says inset from edges and tried to upload this to Machine But keep getting error 'Marlin' does not name a type can you help?
thanks
Bill
very good info, but how can I adjsut the bed to make it flat (with the screws) with mesh bed leveling enabled ?
thanks.
just use the menu to move the nozzle around all four edges. skip the points in between and adjust just the edge distance with the screws. Then repeat the mes bed leveling process and fine tune the distance with the menu. Will update this video soon with an easier process.
hi cross link,
please help. i must make the file less heavy but dont know how
***UPDATE***
seems like I had to add "m420 s" to g-code, too...strange
Does the "save settings" save the state of bedleveling, too? I mean if it's "on" or "off". That is the only explaination for me. That it was turned off and I saved.
***UPDATE***
Hey Daniel maybe you can help me. I have marlin 2.0 and the problem that it loads the data from the saved meshbedleveling after g28. But it's turned of and I have to turn it on by hand. If I forget -> scratched surface :/
So I need to home it by hand -> menuepoint appears to turn bedleveling "on" or "off" (before g28 it's not visible) -> turn to "on" -> it works on the next print. Just turn on no need to load settings by hand...loading seems to work.
Maybe now I can get rid of the Bassalt plate and speed up my prints in Y again! Thank you. i3 Wanhao and new RAMPS_1.4
What is each number in bed z values? Like turning the nob to say 0.001 is how many mm? Thousandth?
Yes, the value is in mm
Hi cross link,
Got an error uploading the firmware with the changes for enabling mesh leveling. It says the file is too big and it errors sending to anet 1.0
Please help
if using a bed sensor add safe homing line 1144
That's right! Thanks for pointing that out.
Is there a way to make the mesh finer?
Instead of the default 3*3 maybe a 5*5?
Yes, there is a line called "#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X" there you can change the points per x axis
In Configuration.h at around line 1075 you can configure the mesh granularity:
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
@@Crosslink3D Thank you :)
thanks for helping out!
I'm getting a "Sketch too big error." How were you able to retain your SD Card Functionality without having too large of a sketch to upload to the ANET? I am able to upload my sketch with Mesh Bed Leveling enabled, but only if I disable SDCARD. Thanks.
Disable ARC_SUPPORT in configuration_adv and you should get back around 3kb of flash
Hi, Daniel, thanks for shared with us, i have a question, how can i check if the mesh bed leveling is active or working ?, i was follow your instructions step by step but when i shutdown my printer and starting new printting job the first layer has print wrong, can you help me?, regards...
This I would like to know as well. After performing a manual bed-leveling in the display it says somthing like bed-leveling activated (can't check the correct message actually because I'm printing). If I switch off Anet and switch it on and open bed-leveling menue, this message doesn't appear, not right away nor if I press load settings. How can I know if bed-leveling is still activated? Just trial and error, like it happened to Mauricio?
@@joelipps5703 Exactly is the same problem that i have
There is two ways to activate it. In the firmware you can activate RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. This means every time after you home with G28, basically every time a new print starts, the mesh is getting loaded automatically. If you don't switch that on you have to use the "M420 S" command right after G28 every time you start a new print. This should be put in your slicer startup gcode scripts section.
Don't forget to save the settings with the "Store settings" menu option after you do the leveling. Otherwise your settings are gone after powering down your printer.
@@Crosslink3D , thank you for your answer. But this you described already in the video. The question was more, if there is an indication, that after G28 Bed-Leveling is still active. Indication like after doing a new bed-leveling, when it's indicated in the marlin bed-leveling menu by the index "bed-leveling activated". I activated RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28, I save after leveling with the mentioned Store settings, but after any G28 or after switching printer off and on it doesn't tell me anymore that bed-leveling is activated. Should it do so, or do you have the same behaviour?
Ive had Marlin installed and have been using the bed leveling option in the menu on the stock lcd. I havent had a problem until this morning, when i was doing the bed leveling, after adjusting point 1/9, i click the ok button, then my lcd screen goes blank, and wont do anything, it gets kinda stuck instead of moving to point 2/9. Any ideas on why its doing this?
EDIT: i wrote black instead of blank. The screen stays lit up, but shows no text of any kind.
What probe are you using if any? Are you doing manual or auto mesh bed leveling? How much vertical difference in mm is there between the probe triggering and the printer nozzle hitting the bed. Should be less than 2mm, this is set int the firmware. Diffs larger than 2mm also cause this.
@@Crosslink3D I posted this problem a few places inclusing Facebook and UA-cam, but forgot to post everywhere after I fixed it. I don't have a probe, I use the bed leveling option in the lcd menu, but adjust manually. I wasn't having an issue, then 1 morning, it started freezing like I explained in my comment. I tried to reflash Marlin firmware, but was getting a compilation error, which led me to believe that an issue was due to me using the Windows 10 Arduino app. Not the original. After I installed the Arduino IDE and reflashed Marlin, I haven't had a problem since. So for now, I've put it down to the crappy win 10 IDE. Hopefully this won't happen again, but time will tell. Thanks for replying though. You videos have been very helpful.
If you dont have a limit switch or level sensor what's to keep it from crashing into the bed when you hit home?
For manual mesh bed leveling you still use the z-endstop switch for limiting.
i am a bit confused with this what if i need to lower the nozzle at 1 or more points but the end stop is triggered? i cannot do it r am i missing something ?
would i need the z stop lower than the bed? in order to be able to do this or does the nozzle lift up off the end stop before you start and you just lower it to where its needed?
no, you have a bit of play between when the endstop actually triggers and when it cannot be pushed further down. that is what you have to work with in terms of micro adjustments.
@@Crosslink3D oh I see now it makes sense
@@TotoGuy-Original hi bro im too confused.. where should I place the endstopper did you find any solution ?
Hi man can you help. My. Saved settings in eeprom don't auto load once turned. Off I have to click on turn on bed leveling each time I have everything enabled you said hope you can help
Hi, did you enable the #define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 feture?
@@Crosslink3D Hi man thanks for the reply i have it fixed now i did have every thing exactly as you said it was what i have to do is click save 3 times and it works dont know why but i have a new lcd screen coming soon and that has a buzzer on for confirmation thanks for the help. my channel ua-cam.com/users/Beta250trials
Nope, you do not need to heat hotend. Only bed. The paper is just enough to take into account the thermal expansion on the hotend, to set it to zero.
Hi mate. Just had a question if someone could help me out. Ive got an anet a8 with a warped heated bed. I have been able to get around the issue with glass and some clips to hold it in place, but levelling has been a constant issue. Ive updated the firmware to marlin 1.1, but am a little confused. If the printer homes all axis before starting the lcd bed leveling process, i think the nozzle would hit the bed or stop due to reaching the z limit switch. In the middle of your video, i think you were talking about this, but I have to be sure before starting. If i level the corners of the bed, so that its level and at z0, im guessing i would have to raise the z limit switch higher so that the nozzle could reach the lower points in the center of the bed, and then store those values in eprom as you mentioned? Meaning that in future, the firmware would just remember those values, and when homing the axis in future, it should never reach the limit switch, but return to the stored values from the lcd bed leveling process?
For anyone needing help for this problem in the future. Simply level you bed so that the nozzle is too low to get the paper underneath, but nit so low to damage the nozzle or bed, then use the bed leveling in the menu on the printer and move the z axis upwards to the correct height
Yes, this could work. In general it's a problem if you hit the z axis switch and don't have enough room to lower the nozzle. The only way to resolve this physical hard stop is to use another sensor like the inductive, capacitive or bltouch probes. The inductive is probably the easiest and cheapest solution. You can connect it to the board directly and it's very reliable unless you want to print on glass. There I would use the bltouch or 3d touch which works with any surface.
How you put this screen in anet a8? i need it!!!!!
Here is my video about how to do it: ua-cam.com/video/uMsIb4Gwm3o/v-deo.html ;-)
You have a config for me?
What controller are you using? I have V 1.7. Marlin 1.1.9 would not work with my board because of a lack of memory.
You mean the Mainboard version? I had to turn off some features to make it work. And you will need to flash the optiboot bootloader, which only works using a programmer.
Boy, I would love to know how to turn off some features in Marlin to reduce its size!!!!!
@@corlissmedia2.0 I have same problem I also like to know same
Arturo Mendéz you uncheck the features.
@@corlissmedia2.0 I guess I have to uncheck some features. Which features are recommended to disable?