I would add a little bit from my experience: 1) If you shoot at lower than native ISO, it's better to use the same shutter speed, aperture and ND settings and bring up your ISO to a native value. You will be capturing so much more of color information, just leave it overexposed while shooting. 2) If you use a denoiser such as a Neat Video, don't take the darkest part as a sample of noise. It is better to use a grey or a dark grey part. 3) You should denoise first then grade 4) For the most part in prosumer cameras more ISO = more noise suppression in camera, if you can expose brighter via ISO and don't lift your gain in post - you better do it. 5) Try to use denoiser only for dark parts of your image via Luma key.
There's few ways I get clean footage with my fx30, whom it might help. 1) Cine EI allows you to use 800 and 2500 only, and Cine EI allows you to change the "exposure" of your lcd screen. Therefore, when you stop down the EI to 400 (ISO 800), 1250 (ISO 2500), you are forcing yourself to let in more light to get a proper exposure which allows you to stop it down 2 stops that you overexpose slog 2. I have a video on my channel going over it. 2) False color is your best friend. Skin tones lie around 45-62 ire depending on your subjects skin color. EL Zone is even better if you learn it
We just recorded a project in ProRes Raw on the FX30. I was shocked by the noise in some of the clips. We were working on a tight schedule and didn't have enough time to play with the equipment and I didn't understand until later how much internal noise reduction Sony does that is lost on external recordings. Davinci's noise reduction helped a lot but man it is really resource intensive
Increasing the iso does not increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. It does increase the sensitivity, but no more physical light is actually getting to the sensor. That's why I try to teach newer videographers that there is no exposure triangle. It's either more or less light using light control, aperture, shutter, or ND.
I think another video idea you could do is showcase your bitrate settings for Premiere! I think some of us struggle with exporting at the correct bitrate. Even though other filmmakers like WhoIsMatt have made videos about it, would love to see your export settings! Both for UA-cam and social media.
I used Neat Video on a documentary. I thought I had enough light for the main interviews, but I didn't. I was also using iPhones and the DJI Osmo Pocket. So I was already in a situation that was less than ideal, but in the end the project turned out pretty decent. For my normal stuff, I don't worry about noise that much. The exposure is usually fine. Especially at home.
Looking at how he didn't like/comment here that he's busy with the new A7SIII update. Impressive video, indeed. I personally tend to go with HLG/HLG3 as it can retain shadows more cleanly and has great color depth/dynamic range. Maybe not as good dynamic range as SLog3, maybe a fraction less, but much safer. I think HLG/HLG3 is perfect for wildlife and run&gun, and SLog3 is great in extremely bright and contrast situations + controlled setup. A7SIII overall has amazing dynamic range in either mode.
There wasn’t much noise in my shot. It was almost impossible to find a noisey shot because I don’t get much noise as I use all these techniques to avoid it
@@JasonMorrisphotocinema In that case I think it would have been better to shoot an intentional noisy shot to make for a more effective demonstration.
0:09 How is that look? Watching it at 4k, It looks worse, because the noise was preventing the ugly 8bit banding from showing up all over the place, which is very distracting. Not sure if that's a problem with my monitor or with youtube, however.
Great video! Super informative. False colour is so useful! Shame it isn't built into Sony cams. Did you know you can set WB and exposure on the grey lens cap of Sony cams as it's middle grey :)
Hey Jason, I’m facing a very tricky shot: i need a pov shot walking behind a talent into a museum with daylight outside, the inside is insanely dark and i can only rely on a colbor 220x bounced off the ceiling which is definitely not enough to counter the sunlight outside. How would you set an fx30 (unfortunately that’s all I have at my disposal) to properly expose the outside and the inside as I walk in? Nd? No nd?
Thank you Jason for this excellent video. As usual, I always learn something from your tip. It's strange that you don't mention El Zone here. It's being supported by at least 2 popular external video monitor brands: Atomos, and SmallHD. I would appreciate if you would do it in the future at your convenience. I prefer to learn it from you, a reliable source for me. Thanks again.
Wait, I'm confused, earlier in the video you show a graphic to set zebras 48-52% to expose for skintone, but then you say you expose at 41% middle grey for skin? - I've seen other creators recommend 68% +/- 1% for skin tones, but this looks a tad bright. I know it's a bit of an individual thing, but I'm struggling a bit to pick the correct value here, any other tips to get this right? (for a talking head in studio)
Following... Somehow my skin tone after color grading just to white-ish. I'm asian and yes I'm more white than yellow but still it's just to white. Idk if this is because of my grading or exposure problem but it would be nice to know
Sir can you pls reply if we have shutter speed 1/16(60ms) and read out speed (rolling shutter ) is 1/48(20ms) then frame is becoming from information 0 to 60ms or 0 to 20ms pls reply
I used to love Neat Video but in the latest build of premiere it always crashes my premiere or slows it down to unusable. I’ve switched to using Davinci for noise reduction simply to save time and headache. I’m on an M1 Max Mac Studio and it drives me nuts how poor it works in premiere now. 😢
There's few ways I get clean footage with my fx30, whom it might help. 1) Cine EI allows you to use 800 and 2500 only, and Cine EI allows you to change the "exposure" of your lcd screen. Therefore, when you stop down the EI to 400 (ISO 800), 1250 (ISO 2500), you are forcing yourself to let in more light to get a proper exposure which allows you to stop it down 2 stops that you overexpose slog 2. I have a video on my channel going over it.
I don't have Cine Ei on my a6700. But I only shoot at iso 800 and 2500, when it's to bright, I can use nd filter to adjust the exposure or reduce my lighting
Variable ND filter. I would recommend shooting at either base iso and trying to avoid other iso values unless absolutely necessary. Ive tested zv e1 and around 2000 all the way up to 10k the image was very noisy. At 12800 is was clean and even at 25k/32k the image was totally usable w a little noise reduction and was superior to the noise in the image at 2k to 10k iso values. When shooting in other picture profiles the image was significantly noisier at higher iso values (the dual native iso values are different for each picture profile). Saying that especially w a fast lens there are very few environments where u will need higher iso values. I haven't tested these other cinema cams other than black magic 4k (which many don't recognize as cinema quality) but I have a hard time imagining better noise performance 12k up 25k/30k though 14k to 16 bit may allow way more flexibility to push around in post to mitigate noise. I'm no expert but I would imagine a smaller form factor 14 bit camera would have been utilized in the creator vs fx3 if it's lowlight was that much better and the form factor wasn't much larger. Until I see a thorough test I guess we won't know. People have claimed same thing w bm6k. Personally I like colors out of bm better and raw is super helpful if u expose wrong but I'm not sure about these claims
*No Lie I've Always relied on ISO if it wasn't bright enough so I'd always use the exposure tool. Also I forgot; what does M.M mean? is that Multi Meter?*
I would add a little bit from my experience:
1) If you shoot at lower than native ISO, it's better to use the same shutter speed, aperture and ND settings and bring up your ISO to a native value. You will be capturing so much more of color information, just leave it overexposed while shooting.
2) If you use a denoiser such as a Neat Video, don't take the darkest part as a sample of noise. It is better to use a grey or a dark grey part.
3) You should denoise first then grade
4) For the most part in prosumer cameras more ISO = more noise suppression in camera, if you can expose brighter via ISO and don't lift your gain in post - you better do it.
5) Try to use denoiser only for dark parts of your image via Luma key.
There's few ways I get clean footage with my fx30, whom it might help.
1) Cine EI allows you to use 800 and 2500 only, and Cine EI allows you to change the "exposure" of your lcd screen.
Therefore, when you stop down the EI to 400 (ISO 800), 1250 (ISO 2500), you are forcing yourself to let in more light to get a proper exposure which allows you to stop it down 2 stops that you overexpose slog 2.
I have a video on my channel going over it.
2) False color is your best friend. Skin tones lie around 45-62 ire depending on your subjects skin color. EL Zone is even better if you learn it
This is the video I have been waiting for. Thank you Jason for uploading it!!!
Thanks for watching
We just recorded a project in ProRes Raw on the FX30. I was shocked by the noise in some of the clips. We were working on a tight schedule and didn't have enough time to play with the equipment and I didn't understand until later how much internal noise reduction Sony does that is lost on external recordings.
Davinci's noise reduction helped a lot but man it is really resource intensive
Increasing the iso does not increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. It does increase the sensitivity, but no more physical light is actually getting to the sensor. That's why I try to teach newer videographers that there is no exposure triangle. It's either more or less light using light control, aperture, shutter, or ND.
I think another video idea you could do is showcase your bitrate settings for Premiere! I think some of us struggle with exporting at the correct bitrate. Even though other filmmakers like WhoIsMatt have made videos about it, would love to see your export settings! Both for UA-cam and social media.
I used Neat Video on a documentary. I thought I had enough light for the main interviews, but I didn't. I was also using iPhones and the DJI Osmo Pocket. So I was already in a situation that was less than ideal, but in the end the project turned out pretty decent. For my normal stuff, I don't worry about noise that much. The exposure is usually fine. Especially at home.
Did your computer blow up? 😅
Looking at how he didn't like/comment here that he's busy with the new A7SIII update. Impressive video, indeed. I personally tend to go with HLG/HLG3 as it can retain shadows more cleanly and has great color depth/dynamic range. Maybe not as good dynamic range as SLog3, maybe a fraction less, but much safer. I think HLG/HLG3 is perfect for wildlife and run&gun, and SLog3 is great in extremely bright and contrast situations + controlled setup. A7SIII overall has amazing dynamic range in either mode.
Jason, there is almost no difference between your "noisy" shot, and your clean shot. Maybe the footage got UA-cam'd?
There wasn’t much noise in my shot. It was almost impossible to find a noisey shot because I don’t get much noise as I use all these techniques to avoid it
You legend!@@JasonMorrisphotocinema
@@JasonMorrisphotocinema In that case I think it would have been better to shoot an intentional noisy shot to make for a more effective demonstration.
great video! My tip is better overexposing the footage in darker scenes and then lowering the exposure in post
0:09 How is that look? Watching it at 4k, It looks worse, because the noise was preventing the ugly 8bit banding from showing up all over the place, which is very distracting.
Not sure if that's a problem with my monitor or with youtube, however.
Great video! Super informative. False colour is so useful! Shame it isn't built into Sony cams. Did you know you can set WB and exposure on the grey lens cap of Sony cams as it's middle grey :)
Hey Jason, I’m facing a very tricky shot: i need a pov shot walking behind a talent into a museum with daylight outside, the inside is insanely dark and i can only rely on a colbor 220x bounced off the ceiling which is definitely not enough to counter the sunlight outside. How would you set an fx30 (unfortunately that’s all I have at my disposal) to properly expose the outside and the inside as I walk in? Nd? No nd?
Thank you Jason for this excellent video. As usual, I always learn something from your tip. It's strange that you don't mention El Zone here. It's being supported by at least 2 popular external video monitor brands: Atomos, and SmallHD. I would appreciate if you would do it in the future at your convenience. I prefer to learn it from you, a reliable source for me. Thanks again.
2. Base Iso for the A7RV is 3200
that screenshot at 7:10 though ❤
FX3
ISO menu indicates 640. I just had some issues with Real-estate shots introducing noise due to attempting to not clips the windows 🤷🏽♂️
Wait, I'm confused, earlier in the video you show a graphic to set zebras 48-52% to expose for skintone, but then you say you expose at 41% middle grey for skin? - I've seen other creators recommend 68% +/- 1% for skin tones, but this looks a tad bright. I know it's a bit of an individual thing, but I'm struggling a bit to pick the correct value here, any other tips to get this right? (for a talking head in studio)
Following...
Somehow my skin tone after color grading just to white-ish. I'm asian and yes I'm more white than yellow but still it's just to white. Idk if this is because of my grading or exposure problem but it would be nice to know
Sir can you pls reply if we have shutter speed 1/16(60ms) and read out speed (rolling shutter ) is 1/48(20ms) then frame is becoming from information 0 to 60ms or 0 to 20ms pls reply
I used to love Neat Video but in the latest build of premiere it always crashes my premiere or slows it down to unusable. I’ve switched to using Davinci for noise reduction simply to save time and headache. I’m on an M1 Max Mac Studio and it drives me nuts how poor it works in premiere now. 😢
Great tips but don’t forget about us poor A7iii users with the ISO base levels ;)
please export settings for youtube
I feel exposed lol Thank you for this.
Thank you so much 🙏🏾👍
Sony zv1 here...video look dark, grainy, and just bad what am I doing wrong
👍 Thanks Jase!
wait... the zv e10 has a dual base ISO.. I didn't know
Thank you!!
When 800 is not enough and 12800 is way to much. How is flexible iso at like 2000 iso? Can you do a video flexible iso vs cine ei??
There's few ways I get clean footage with my fx30, whom it might help.
1) Cine EI allows you to use 800 and 2500 only, and Cine EI allows you to change the "exposure" of your lcd screen.
Therefore, when you stop down the EI to 400 (ISO 800), 1250 (ISO 2500), you are forcing yourself to let in more light to get a proper exposure which allows you to stop it down 2 stops that you overexpose slog 2.
I have a video on my channel going over it.
use a nd filter
I don't have Cine Ei on my a6700. But I only shoot at iso 800 and 2500, when it's to bright, I can use nd filter to adjust the exposure or reduce my lighting
Cine EI is literally opposite of a flexible ISO
Variable ND filter. I would recommend shooting at either base iso and trying to avoid other iso values unless absolutely necessary. Ive tested zv e1 and around 2000 all the way up to 10k the image was very noisy. At 12800 is was clean and even at 25k/32k the image was totally usable w a little noise reduction and was superior to the noise in the image at 2k to 10k iso values. When shooting in other picture profiles the image was significantly noisier at higher iso values (the dual native iso values are different for each picture profile). Saying that especially w a fast lens there are very few environments where u will need higher iso values. I haven't tested these other cinema cams other than black magic 4k (which many don't recognize as cinema quality) but I have a hard time imagining better noise performance 12k up 25k/30k though 14k to 16 bit may allow way more flexibility to push around in post to mitigate noise. I'm no expert but I would imagine a smaller form factor 14 bit camera would have been utilized in the creator vs fx3 if it's lowlight was that much better and the form factor wasn't much larger. Until I see a thorough test I guess we won't know. People have claimed same thing w bm6k. Personally I like colors out of bm better and raw is super helpful if u expose wrong but I'm not sure about these claims
ISO BASE 2 FOR A7CR IS 3200
I literally saw no difference in the intro video, UA-cam compression sure is something else😂
*No Lie I've Always relied on ISO if it wasn't bright enough so I'd always use the exposure tool. Also I forgot; what does M.M mean? is that Multi Meter?*
man, i cant see it? youtube compression kills what your explaining.
Love u sir 💕
There is almost no difference, because YT ruins everything. Especially the phone app 🤯
Noisy? Really?
How can u talk so much and say nothing 😂
Did you even pay attention? 😂