This is part 2 of a three part series on how I made a new lead screw and nut for a Harig grinder. In the video you will discover how I prep for the nut.
im not a machinist by any means but am facinated by the metal working process my father in law is a machinist im an electrician by trade im obsessed with tools thank you fot teaching me
Thanks for this series. Very instructional. I like how your vids are short and to the point, with tight editing and no long speeches. Cheers from Canada. Daniel
M.Dery, For sure, this presentation is very instructive. I was expecting that solution even if I expect that you will use a prefabricated nut. I never saw that kind of nut. And, for most, I did not expect that this nut should be inserted into that actual support. Also, I like that you explain that we need to square the support and how to do it. Many, many thanks to you. Warm regards
While I'm sure many would "just know" to do it; you didn't mention about making sure to lock the X&Y axis after doing such a good job of lining up your center point on the nut! Thanks for the vid - gives me more motivation to replace/rebuild the nuts on my 1984 lathe that are getting sloppy.
I'm actually doing the exact same job on a Niagra 10' shear with an adjustable back stop. The screws are in good shape but the nuts are destroyed. I had to opt for re-machining the entire nut thanks to it being one solid piece of bearing bronze and having another shaft perpendicular to the leadscrew thread integrated into the nut. An easy way to do the bore for those with a good lathe but without a mill (or a mill without a powered quill) is to bore/thread the nut using a 4 jaw on the lathe. Some aluminum or any other soft metal makes a great spacer for giving the chuck jaws a good register, in case they get hung up on the flange of the T. Great project!
...still on target and creating good helpful content. Good job Dale! I knew you could do this and know greater things are on the way once all of your machines, tools, and shop are in order.
I come from woodworking and watching your videos it`s getting damn hard not to get into machining, your videos are so interesting. Great content, thanks!
Thanks for your positive comment. I was a woodworker before a became a metal guy. But I need to worn you. The tools cost a lot more and they are real heavy lol 😀😀😀
Hi, just dicovered your videos a couple of days ago. Im learning a lot, Im a welder fabricator by trade, Your videos are very well explained, thanks again. By the way im in Canada near Montreal
I'm an apprentice toolmaker and one of our milling vices brass leadscrew nuts stripped out. My job was to completely replicate everything. I started with brass hex bar and bored and screw cut a square thread at 8tpi. I took the hex bar to the mill and clocked it up and milled the profiles. We thought putting an insert in would have compromised the strength of the nut. But because your leadscrew isn't clamping it should be alright. Have you had a similar experience of a vice nut stripping?
Very nice tutorial on setting up a casting for machining. In model engineering of small engines this is a challenge. Set ups may take much longer than actual machining.
I noticed you said you would glue the part with the threads in. It seems like all sorts of things are getting glued these days. I assume you will use loctitte. Will that be stronger than silver solder? I have a new boring head that I have not had the opportunity to use just yet. I guess I will have to invent some boring job. Thanks for sharing.
Great video Dale. A quick question in regards to your mill, how high is your riser? Just getting into machining and I bought a 10" riser for my Bridgeport, just wondering if it's maybe too much. Most of my work is on the large side, heavy equipment. Keep up the good work!
Hi. I'm trying to fabricate my own twin screw woodworking vice, I know there are a few on the market. But I'd like to build one with fast travel lead screws, preferably 1 inch. Do you have any suggestions for where I can buy the screws and nut and what thread? Too much info out there and find what I will work best for my application, as far thread tip. Thanx.
Cool....i would really like to see the different ways to find center on a milling machine using indicators and what not. Its something i am struggling with and my journeymen have been on me about outside of using my starretg wiggler.
As always Dale, great video...! Again, you have a trick which I never thought of. This time it was the dowel pin in a collet to square the work piece... Simple, elegant. However, I'm a little concerned about the blood splatter on the vise? Red Dykem perhaps? :-) Cheers, Daniel.
If you are using an Acme thread, why not split the nut on one side and use a pinchbolt to keep the tolerances tolerable as the thread wears? whyare some leadscrew nuts made of brass and others are not? Dale thanks for your efforts to enlighten us
Great questions. I thought of making the nut adjustable. But I didn't see that it would make the machine work better. The back lash is not that bad. Why I didn't use a brass nut. When you have two metals that slide on each other like a nut and screw you need to have one that is softer then the other. If you have two similar harness of materials they will bind and mar each other causing the parts to fail quicker. I used a soft acme thread so I could turn it down on the lathe, and a cast iron nut witch is harder then the screw. I feel this combination will last longer than a soft brass nut on a soft screw. Thanks for the question. Dale d
Dumb Question: Why not clamp the nut with the ground surface against the fixed jaw, and two 1-2-3 blocks on the flats, putting no pressure on the bore to distort it?
That's a good idea. One thing to lookout for is the quality of the casting if it is rough or the two sides are not parallel you might need to mill them down to insure a good tight clamp.
+Greg Koenig That is the way I would of done it, I think a bit more surface area, even I you had to mill the surface flat to get a seat. Both ways work though.
Dale------ I have always shrunk fit parts like the journal you soldered onto the shaft. I never thought to solder one on. Great idea! I also would have never thought to glue the new internal screw into the bored hole. I probably would have shrunk a sleeve into the freshly bored hole and turned the internal acme threads. What a waste of time for me. respectfully: Bob Z.
How much clearance between the major diameter of the thread and the bore you just made? (Essentially, what will be the wall thickness of the nut after machining?)
You could have used two 1-2-3 blocks to hold the base against the fixed jaw instead of making those two light cuts on the side. Are you a full time machinist or a hobbyist?
Another great video, thank you. One constructive criticism, though: There were too many camera cuts and it was a little hard to follow along at some parts.
Yes. well done but, what about my problem a have a Colchester master. lath that doesn't have the conventional two half huts, it one nut that rids on the upper half of the lead screw. & in my case ha never been fitted with a half nut or lead screw. I have to fit 8 trends to the 1" an unc led screw 1" in diameter & build a new half nut. with no paten to copy. but you have indeed given me a way to achieve. the result. i have no means. yet to cut a thread but i do have a 1" unc tap at 8 TPI so. tim to tap a hole. build the system from new. thankes. lad & No they don't mack part's now given it 150 years old. & only now getting a lead skew & nut. LOL .
good video i would have used 2 123 blocks and clamped it just like the 1st way you showed but using the 123 blocks sitting on the bolt flange. your way works but not super ridged. thanks for the video
Great video, Dale! Thanks for sharing with us. I always knew clamping a part deforms it a little, but never knew it was that critical. I mean, for the amount of pressure you applied on the part at the beginning, I'd assume a maximum of 1, maybe 2 thou. (Taking into account the part itself. It's not a thin-wall part by any means.) But 4?! Sheesh. I gotta reset my estimates. ;)
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) thats not the only splice i caught lol but hey I think wed all do it when we need to or have missing footage. keep up the strong work we appreciate your videos!
Would it not have made more sense to square off the new lead nut outside diameter and then make a new flat mount piece? TIG weld them together and face the flat piece of the mount as the last operation..
I would've done it differently... I would've put the nut in the vise on the flats, and milled it down to square specs... leaving the bottom side with a 1/4" key... then, mill a 1/4" keyway into the center of the plate, with the holes already drilled... and then, tig weld it down... and last, mill the bottom face flat, if the weld distorted it...
Nice video but, you sped up through the actual boring part. I know that's kind of slow for everyone but some of us have never used the boring head and would actually like to hear and see what it should sound like and hope that this doesn't come off as me being mean in any way. Thanks for the awesome video.
Gee, why not clamp it in your vice the way you had it a 1:15 and use a pair of steel bar spacers to apply clamping load onto the two flanges of your nut body? That's the right way to do it. The mounting face stays square with the vice jaws and mill axis.
Good question. The goal of this video is to think out side the box. What if you have a lathe with a worn lead screw. You cant use your lathe to cut a new lead screw. So what do you do. That is what this video is about. Plus the screw I bought was ground to .005" and I have no way to grind a screw to that torrence. I hope this anserws your question Kmal :-)
In most cases you are trying to get a machine back into service so you can make MONEY. Being a purist and making everything from scratch takes time and time is money.
Excellent. Clear, good pacing, good use of "200X". I think 10-11 minutes is the sweet spot for instructional videos like this.
Thanks, I agree with you. I like the shorter doing the shorter videos
I love the tip on centering the part to the bore, you have a way of simplifying things that I really appreciate.
Thank you very much for your complement
im not a machinist by any means but am facinated by the metal working process
my father in law is a machinist
im an electrician by trade
im obsessed with tools
thank you fot teaching me
+jhfenderr1
If you get into machine, I warn you. There are a lot of tools to buy
Hi Dale, please keep the vids coming, there is no substitute in the world for the passing on of knowledge.
Regards, Rich, UK.
Thank for your support it mean a lot.
Enjoyed the video. Great tip regarding the vise distorting the nut and the solution.
Thanks
Thanks for this series. Very instructional. I like how your vids are short and to the point, with tight editing and no long speeches. Cheers from Canada. Daniel
Thanks
Hi Dale, Nice Work, Looking forward to the next installment!
Hi Dale. I really like your channel, I learn a lot. Thank you.
M.Dery,
For sure, this presentation is very instructive. I was expecting that solution even if I expect that you will use a prefabricated nut. I never saw that kind of nut. And, for most, I did not expect that this nut should be inserted into that actual support. Also, I like that you explain that we need to square the support and how to do it. Many, many thanks to you. Warm regards
Next Friday you will see the conclusion of the repair.😀
Yesssss😸
Great job, Am looking forward to seeing how you put the threaded part back in. Thank you for sharing this with us.
That video will be up loaded next Friday 😀
While I'm sure many would "just know" to do it; you didn't mention about making sure to lock the X&Y axis after doing such a good job of lining up your center point on the nut! Thanks for the vid - gives me more motivation to replace/rebuild the nuts on my 1984 lathe that are getting sloppy.
+DrFiero
Im Glade I could help
I'm actually doing the exact same job on a Niagra 10' shear with an adjustable back stop. The screws are in good shape but the nuts are destroyed. I had to opt for re-machining the entire nut thanks to it being one solid piece of bearing bronze and having another shaft perpendicular to the leadscrew thread integrated into the nut. An easy way to do the bore for those with a good lathe but without a mill (or a mill without a powered quill) is to bore/thread the nut using a 4 jaw on the lathe. Some aluminum or any other soft metal makes a great spacer for giving the chuck jaws a good register, in case they get hung up on the flange of the T. Great project!
...still on target and creating good helpful content. Good job Dale! I knew you could do this and know greater things are on the way once all of your machines, tools, and shop are in order.
Thanks Jeffery! You are my favorite viewer, you are amazing. You always make the best comments. Keep up the great comment. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
I had thought that you would have put that piece in the four jaw. In the lathe . Thanks for all of your videos. There all great.
.....this is exactly what precision angle plates and blocks exist for.....if ya have one!.....well done.
That's a great point. There is always more then one way to clamp up something
I come from woodworking and watching your videos it`s getting damn hard not to get into machining, your videos are so interesting. Great content, thanks!
Thanks for your positive comment. I was a woodworker before a became a metal guy. But I need to worn you. The tools cost a lot more and they are real heavy lol 😀😀😀
It's called BORING for a reason. Nice video Sir!
Hi, just dicovered your videos a couple of days ago. Im learning a lot, Im a welder fabricator by trade, Your videos are very well explained, thanks again. By the way im in Canada near Montreal
+Bennett Daniel
Thanks for your comment :-)
Excellent video. Actually this is your best so far. Thanks for sharing !
Thank you very much.😀
Great project Dale -- you make some useful point. Look fwd to final stage.
Thanks 😀
The best! clear, explanatory, made simple, Thank you!
+Yoram Binur
thanks I glade you liked it.
Thank you for the effort showing us this
I'm an apprentice toolmaker and one of our milling vices brass leadscrew nuts stripped out. My job was to completely replicate everything. I started with brass hex bar and bored and screw cut a square thread at 8tpi. I took the hex bar to the mill and clocked it up and milled the profiles. We thought putting an insert in would have compromised the strength of the nut. But because your leadscrew isn't clamping it should be alright. Have you had a similar experience of a vice nut stripping?
I like it. Great job Dale. Wish I could have gotten to the Bash this year. Would like to meet you, RR, Stan, Tom, Adam, etc.
Very nice tutorial on setting up a casting for machining. In model engineering of small engines this is a challenge. Set ups may take much longer than actual machining.
I agree set almost alway takes longer then machine.
another great video dale......superb
Thanks
I noticed you said you would glue the part with the threads in. It seems like all sorts of things are getting glued these days. I assume you will use loctitte. Will that be stronger than silver solder? I have a new boring head that I have not had the opportunity to use just yet. I guess I will have to invent some boring job. Thanks for sharing.
Silver solder will hold it better then glue. I chose glue because it s a cold process, and will not distort the part.
Great video! Can't wait for part 3!
Thanks! Part 3 will be out next friday
thank you for your good explanations
Great video Dale. A quick question in regards to your mill, how high is your riser? Just getting into machining and I bought a 10" riser for my Bridgeport, just wondering if it's maybe too much. Most of my work is on the large side, heavy equipment. Keep up the good work!
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Hi. I'm trying to fabricate my own twin screw woodworking vice, I know there are a few on the market. But I'd like to build one with fast travel lead screws, preferably 1 inch. Do you have any suggestions for where I can buy the screws and nut and what thread? Too much info out there and find what I will work best for my application, as far thread tip. Thanx.
Very useful to me. Thank you very much.
Thanks Dale - great video.
Are you going to show turning down the nut and installing it in the bore?
Yes, Next Friday I will be showing you how I made and fit the nut to the house I just milled out. Next Friday.
Cool....i would really like to see the different ways to find center on a milling machine using indicators and what not. Its something i am struggling with and my journeymen have been on me about outside of using my starretg wiggler.
Good clamping advice. Of course, good work.
Great Job!
As always Dale, great video...! Again, you have a trick which I never thought of. This time it was the dowel pin in a collet to square the work piece... Simple, elegant. However, I'm a little concerned about the blood splatter on the vise? Red Dykem perhaps? :-) Cheers, Daniel.
If I'm not bleeding, I'm not working lol 😀
Nice touch with the masking tape annotations
Thanks
If you are using an Acme thread, why not split the nut on one side and use a pinchbolt to keep the tolerances tolerable as the thread wears? whyare some leadscrew nuts made of brass and others are not? Dale thanks for your efforts to enlighten us
Great questions. I thought of making the nut adjustable. But I didn't see that it would make the machine work better. The back lash is not that bad.
Why I didn't use a brass nut.
When you have two metals that slide on each other like a nut and screw you need to have one that is softer then the other. If you have two similar harness of materials they will bind and mar each other causing the parts to fail quicker. I used a soft acme thread so I could turn it down on the lathe, and a cast iron nut witch is harder then the screw. I feel this combination will last longer than a soft brass nut on a soft screw.
Thanks for the question.
Dale d
very good explanation, thank you a lot.
Reuben Boarman
Thxs for making this video it has been a great help
Dumb Question:
Why not clamp the nut with the ground surface against the fixed jaw, and two 1-2-3 blocks on the flats, putting no pressure on the bore to distort it?
+Greg Koenig
i'm not a machinist but would have done that is there a reason or is it a potato or potato thing
That's a good idea. One thing to lookout for is the quality of the casting if it is rough or the two sides are not parallel you might need to mill them down to insure a good tight clamp.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) Or use a pair of ball bearings.
+Greg Koenig That is the way I would of done it, I think a bit more surface area, even I you had to mill the surface flat to get a seat. Both ways work though.
I agree
If only we could bore at 200x!! Thanks for the video!
I agree. It would be fun.
very good tips !
nice, great job.
very practial, enjoyed
Thanks
Dale------ I have always shrunk fit parts like the journal you soldered onto the shaft. I never thought to solder one on. Great idea! I also would have never thought to glue the new internal screw into the bored hole. I probably would have shrunk a sleeve into the freshly bored hole and turned the internal acme threads. What a waste of time for me.
respectfully: Bob Z.
Thanks for the great videos sir.
when you bored it out, how did you determined how much to go beyond the old threads? great video.
I based on the old one lead screw.
Hey Dale! Would that work as well on a cross feed on a lathe? Enjoyed the video!
How much clearance between the major diameter of the thread and the bore you just made? (Essentially, what will be the wall thickness of the nut after machining?)
I don't have the part in front of me but here are some measurements I do know. The final hole is about 1" in dia, snd the acme thread Is 3/4".
So, about a 1/8" shell around the threads. That seems like enough. It was just hard to get the scale in the video.
great video, btw I loved t the clamping advice. I would have killed it for sure. give it th clamps! futurama reference lol
great work
+Shaun Tucker Thanks
I believe convention says that the two outer screws are gib adjustments and the centre one is for locking, if needed.
You could have used two 1-2-3 blocks to hold the base against the fixed jaw instead of making those two light cuts on the side. Are you a full time machinist or a hobbyist?
+TheMachiningman Exactly what I was thinking. That setup would be MUCH less likely to twist off axis during cutting.
I learned alot there. Thanks.
😀
I would have clamped it wrong so thanks. Why glue? Seems like it would not be the best choice for metal but?
Another great video, thank you. One constructive criticism, though: There were too many camera cuts and it was a little hard to follow along at some parts.
Yes. well done but, what about my problem a have a Colchester master. lath that doesn't have the conventional two half huts, it one nut that rids on the upper half of the lead screw. & in my case ha never been fitted with a half nut or lead screw. I have to fit 8 trends to the 1" an unc led screw 1" in diameter & build a new half nut. with no paten to copy. but you have indeed given me a way to achieve. the result. i have no means. yet to cut a thread but i do have a 1" unc tap at 8 TPI so. tim to tap a hole. build the system from new. thankes. lad & No they don't mack part's now given it 150 years old. & only now getting a lead skew & nut. LOL .
good video i would have used 2 123 blocks and clamped it just like the 1st way you showed but using the 123 blocks sitting on the bolt flange. your way works but not super ridged. thanks for the video
Great idea.
Nice job, positive.
well done
thanks, dale that's how . to do it when we have not got 1-2-3 blocks. i think you're saying welldon son. lol
Good Job buddy. I watched the Hole thing. LOL. Have a good Holiday, you home yet?
Randy
Thanks,
We are now in Sandpoint IDAHO were we lived before Atlanta.
ok...teaser...
where is the link to part 1 you said would be in the description?
ua-cam.com/video/moVDZrYGnyc/v-deo.html
Nice work hello from Europe Bosnia and Hercegovina you hawe golden hends fore metall work exelent video pozz ppn vitezovi
nice tutorial
Thanks
Great video, Dale! Thanks for sharing with us. I always knew clamping a part deforms it a little, but never knew it was that critical. I mean, for the amount of pressure you applied on the part at the beginning, I'd assume a maximum of 1, maybe 2 thou. (Taking into account the part itself. It's not a thin-wall part by any means.) But 4?! Sheesh. I gotta reset my estimates. ;)
I'm glad you liked the video.
+aryesegal1988 You can put over 4000 psi on the part with that vise. Parts distort more than you think.
Randy Richard True, the mechanical advantage due to the screw and levers are something I always forget to take into account. Thanks for replying. :)
at 5:50 could this have being done with a wiggler ? i mean to center align .
What kind of mill is that? Doug
Thanks for the info.
Can you use a boring head on a mill without an automatic down feed?
yes, but be careful it might grab and get away from you.
Great teach!
lol at the editing there Dale!
Did you catch my voice over saying "Boring head"? And my lips were not in sink.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) thats not the only splice i caught lol but hey I think wed all do it when we need to or have missing footage. keep up the strong work we appreciate your videos!
Why don’t you use an edge finder in the mill to find the center ?
what is the name of the device you use to level?
If norm had a metal shop.
Would it not have made more sense to square off the new lead nut outside diameter and then make a new flat mount piece? TIG weld them together and face the flat piece of the mount as the last operation..
I had the same thought about TIGing it.
I would've done it differently...
I would've put the nut in the vise on the flats, and milled it down to square specs... leaving the bottom side with a 1/4" key... then, mill a 1/4" keyway into the center of the plate, with the holes already drilled... and then, tig weld it down... and last, mill the bottom face flat, if the weld distorted it...
Nice video but, you sped up through the actual boring part. I know that's kind of slow for everyone but some of us have never used the boring head and would actually like to hear and see what it should sound like and hope that this doesn't come off as me being mean in any way. Thanks for the awesome video.
Sorry about that, but I do it to save time. Maybe I'll do a video on boring and not speed it up😀
I would have clamped it with the base against the back jaw with 2 pieces of metal to go from the base to the adjusting jaw.
thanks for the tip
I'd have used the existing bolt holes to bolt it to a 90 degree angle plate.
Gee, why not clamp it in your vice the way you had it a 1:15 and use a pair of steel bar spacers to apply clamping load onto the two flanges of your nut body? That's the right way to do it. The mounting face stays square with the vice jaws and mill axis.
+billsixx go check out my Q&A video for the series, it will answer your question
you went "nuts"
You picked a hard project. You also made it extra difficult by not having me as your teacher.
Nice video, but that editing lol
😀
u destroy things to do another things!!!!
why don't u make what u need from raw materials?
u already have needed tools!!!!
Good question. The goal of this video is to think out side the box. What if you have a lathe with a worn lead screw. You cant use your lathe to cut a new lead screw. So what do you do. That is what this video is about.
Plus the screw I bought was ground to .005" and I have no way to grind a screw to that torrence.
I hope this anserws your question Kmal :-)
In most cases you are trying to get a machine back into service so you can make MONEY. Being a purist and making everything from scratch takes time and time is money.
ty guys
I got it.