Great video. I'm a retired Honda Automotive Master Tech. I got a hack that may help you on oil filter change. Instead of blue paper towels you can use a individual sheet of Reynolds wrap that can be bought almost anywhere. Put the sheet under the filter and when you remove the filter it will run outside of the cowl into you drain pan. We used this hack daily. Hope it might help you !
Great video, getting a DF30 soon and this really helped. How did you get the engine data on the display? Is it just the 4 pin to nmea cable on the engine?
Hi thanks for the video very helpful . I just removed the air filter from my df30a and noticed some oil on the bottom of the case is that something to worry about please
First thing, awesome video! Secondly, how did you connect the Raymarine display to the outboard? That is a slick setup. Maybe do a video on how to setup the outboard with the Raymarine. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked the video and that's a great idea for a future one.. Long story short, the outboard has a diagnostics port under the cowling. You can purchase a cable from Suzuki that plugs into the port and will give you all the engine data for the sensors your outboard comes with. That cable is then connected to a NMEA 2000 hub and a NMEA 2000 cable plugs into the back of the Raymarine display with the info.. Its plug and play and is easy to do. My engine doesn't have a ton of sensors on it, but I do get RPM, temperature, engine hours, and fuel consumption.. Let me know if you have any questions on it...
Just came across your video, I have a DF30A that has been giving me issues. The first 20 hours was fine, I took it in for maintenance, but after I got it back, it started it to bog down, shake really bad, and then shut off. I took it to two different shops and they can't figure it out. I've had plugs changed, filter, new fuel line from tank to engine, and I use ethanol free gas in it. I talked to a friend of mine and he said that there is some tiny piece the gets pinched or something near the VST but he can't remember what it is. Any help would be appreciated in fixing this. Great video and easy to undertsand.
I had a similar issue at about 120 hours with mine.. I even had to get towed in.. Thanks BoatUS (they were awesome)!!! My issue ended up being the high pressure fuel filter. This outboard actually has two fuel filters under the cowling. The first is the low pressure one that you see when you first take the cowling off. This one was not plugged on mine. To get to the high pressure one, you have to take the side cover off the right side of the engine. There is a small filter just prior to the fuel injection rail that has a much finer filter element than the other one. Once I changed this filter out, it ran great again. This is supposed to be a 1,000 hour filter, but I change it out religiously once a year now and haven’t had another problem. Hope this helps….
Hi. I have a DF30A as well. This is the most extensive maintenance video I’ve seen. I can tell from your garage you’re a super organized guy. Thanks for sharing. I’m saving this video for future reference. I’ve done minor maintenance, changing the engine oil and filter and gear oil every year in the Fall. I have question about the prop assembly. When inspecting, did you happen to take pictures, or notice the number of washer’s (spacers) that were installed? I’ve taken mine off and it seems like I’m missing something? When I reinstalled the prop, the nut is not aligned with the hole for the lock pin. It’s screws on way pass the hole. I should have taken pictures of the assembly before removing the prop. Any help appreciated. ua-cam.com/users/shortsc72tAwOEpeM?si=knRIh-d1ZURKPXUX
Thanks for the comment... I wasn't sure on the terminology of the parts so I had to look them up.. ha ha.. If you are putting the prop back on, the sequence should be, sliding the stopper on the shaft, then the propeller, then the spacer, the washer next(single washer only), then the nut. The nut should not go way past the hole when everything is assembled. The books lists the tightening torque at 18 foot lbs. I hope this helps.. UA-cam won't let me attach an image to my comment.. If you need a picture send me you email and I will get one to you... Hope this helps...
@@pacificadventure5792 Thank you for responding. I have it assembled in the right sequence but in order for the nut to line up correctly, I have to reverse the spacer which doesn’t seem right. I agree pictures would help. But if you have the parts diagram handy, I have part #24 (spacer) with the narrow end facing the washer. This doesn’t seem right? Is yours is assembled this way?
The service manual shows the narrow end facing the prop, not the washer... I double checked my outboard and I also have it installed with the narrow portion facing the prop, not the washer.. @@jasper60103
A very informative video about this engine, probably the only one on UA-cam, thank you! I'll be waiting for a video about replacing the timing belt.
Great video. I'm a retired Honda Automotive Master Tech. I got a hack that may help you on oil filter change. Instead of blue paper towels you can use a individual sheet of Reynolds wrap that can be bought almost anywhere. Put the sheet under the filter and when you remove the filter it will run outside of the cowl into you drain pan. We used this hack daily. Hope it might help you !
That is an awesome idea!! Im going to use that next time. Thanks for the tip!!
Thank you very much. This video is very informational and the only one I could find to show where the spark plugs are located.
Hey, thanks for this interesting video. It's a shame, that it gets so little attention.
I would also like to see more videos from your boat trips.
Thanks for the comment!! I have a ton of video content of fishing, diving and boating... I need to go through it and put some more videos together..
Great video, getting a DF30 soon and this really helped. How did you get the engine data on the display? Is it just the 4 pin to nmea cable on the engine?
Just what I needed, thanks
Many thanks. Great video. Glenn Australia
Hi thanks for the video very helpful . I just removed the air filter from my df30a and noticed some oil on the bottom of the case is that something to worry about please
First thing, awesome video! Secondly, how did you connect the Raymarine display to the outboard? That is a slick setup. Maybe do a video on how to setup the outboard with the Raymarine. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked the video and that's a great idea for a future one.. Long story short, the outboard has a diagnostics port under the cowling. You can purchase a cable from Suzuki that plugs into the port and will give you all the engine data for the sensors your outboard comes with. That cable is then connected to a NMEA 2000 hub and a NMEA 2000 cable plugs into the back of the Raymarine display with the info.. Its plug and play and is easy to do. My engine doesn't have a ton of sensors on it, but I do get RPM, temperature, engine hours, and fuel consumption.. Let me know if you have any questions on it...
awesome, would you be able to show it on video ! :) @@pacificadventure5792
What service interval requires the maintenance you completed in this video? Every x months? Every x hours? Year? Thanks for the help!
If you look in the owner's manual it should list the maintenance schedule for your outboard. For me this was a 2 year or 200 hour service.
Just came across your video, I have a DF30A that has been giving me issues. The first 20 hours was fine, I took it in for maintenance, but after I got it back, it started it to bog down, shake really bad, and then shut off. I took it to two different shops and they can't figure it out. I've had plugs changed, filter, new fuel line from tank to engine, and I use ethanol free gas in it. I talked to a friend of mine and he said that there is some tiny piece the gets pinched or something near the VST but he can't remember what it is. Any help would be appreciated in fixing this. Great video and easy to undertsand.
I had a similar issue at about 120 hours with mine.. I even had to get towed in.. Thanks BoatUS (they were awesome)!!! My issue ended up being the high pressure fuel filter. This outboard actually has two fuel filters under the cowling. The first is the low pressure one that you see when you first take the cowling off. This one was not plugged on mine. To get to the high pressure one, you have to take the side cover off the right side of the engine. There is a small filter just prior to the fuel injection rail that has a much finer filter element than the other one. Once I changed this filter out, it ran great again. This is supposed to be a 1,000 hour filter, but I change it out religiously once a year now and haven’t had another problem. Hope this helps….
what lower unit adapter is that for the pump?
Hi. I have a DF30A as well. This is the most extensive maintenance video I’ve seen. I can tell from your garage you’re a super organized guy. Thanks for sharing. I’m saving this video for future reference.
I’ve done minor maintenance, changing the engine oil and filter and gear oil every year in the Fall.
I have question about the prop assembly. When inspecting, did you happen to take pictures, or notice the number of washer’s (spacers) that were installed? I’ve taken mine off and it seems like I’m missing something? When I reinstalled the prop, the nut is not aligned with the hole for the lock pin. It’s screws on way pass the hole. I should have taken pictures of the assembly before removing the prop. Any help appreciated.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsc72tAwOEpeM?si=knRIh-d1ZURKPXUX
Thanks for the comment... I wasn't sure on the terminology of the parts so I had to look them up.. ha ha.. If you are putting the prop back on, the sequence should be, sliding the stopper on the shaft, then the propeller, then the spacer, the washer next(single washer only), then the nut.
The nut should not go way past the hole when everything is assembled. The books lists the tightening torque at 18 foot lbs. I hope this helps.. UA-cam won't let me attach an image to my comment.. If you need a picture send me you email and I will get one to you... Hope this helps...
@@pacificadventure5792 Thank you for responding. I have it assembled in the right sequence but in order for the nut to line up correctly, I have to reverse the spacer which doesn’t seem right.
I agree pictures would help. But if you have the parts diagram handy, I have part #24 (spacer) with the narrow end facing the washer. This doesn’t seem right?
Is yours is assembled this way?
The service manual shows the narrow end facing the prop, not the washer... I double checked my outboard and I also have it installed with the narrow portion facing the prop, not the washer.. @@jasper60103
@@pacificadventure5792 Thankyou for confirming. That’s a great help. Something is wrong with my setup.
Anytime... I hope you get it figured out..@@jasper60103