I’m so pissed 😤 now I WILL !!!… Any company that waste my money or waste my time I will go for kamikaze on them, suicidal bomber to lose them money like they lose me, or my customers money . I believe in an eye 👁️ for an 👁️ eye. First testament Bible, following Jahari revenge Against companies to lose, or piss me off . For every dollar a company cost me in losses I will make sure I lose them 1000 or $10,000 for everyone I lose in time or direct financial losses . That’s a good thing about the power of media, UA-cam, Twitter, Reddit Facebook . If a company screws over their customers, a customer can take revenge and get back at them .
Wow I never knew this and have been buying these cheap condensers from rock auto. Most of the cars I did with these cheap condensers didn’t perform as well as the oem stuff. Thanks for your knowledge, keep up the good work.
Can I ask a question? You purchase them, but your technicians are the ones installing them . They don’t give you no feedback when the mounting brackets don’t quite fit right they have to force them bend them, or oval them out ? They’ve never noticed sometimes when you attach the middle line to some aftermarket condensers, it’s not a slightly different angle, so the metal line will ride up and rub against the sheet metal where it passes through . It does no damage now but a year and a half and from now it becomes a rub through. ? Your technicians have never brought up the fact to you that the OEM might have the foam that is attached all the way around the condenser to stop hot air bleed by from the engine compartment in reheating to refrigerant. Gas is missing on the aftermarket ones. ? Or maybe they don’t even know what this is for and do not think it’s important, so they just never mentioned it to you. ?
look at the shipping weight when buying a condenser on-line, I'd go for the "heavier" condenser.....I know it sounds crazy, but I'd rather get a used ultra low mile OEM condenser off say a 9,400 mile car vs new aftermarket....same for AC compressors and headlamp assemblies. Great video!!!
Oh, when somebody pisses me off and waste my time and money, I will make sure they lose 1000 times more that’s the only way you can speak the language of large corporate companies. They only know when they lose money they pay attention and change their ways . If you keep quiet like a little sheep and bend over and take it from the big companies, they will keep giving it to you .
Yes, do you remember back when Honda had the radiator on the right side and the condenser on the left side a little square ones. The cheap aftermarket radiators would work good in cold climates here in California like San Francisco. But in the summertime when the customer would go and drive like down to Los Angeles and it was 110° and they would try to pull up a large he’ll like the grapevine they would blow engines left and right head gaskets galore off from aftermarket radiators . Other cars did it too but that small Hondas were the most notorious and sensitive . All that caused by cheap economy parts
The video is much appreciated. Bought one of these, it's otw as we speak expected to arrive Tue. Started feeling like I should research this brand cos it was only $78. After seeing this, ordering an OEM Condenser, probably gonna go with a genuine VW one tbh to save myself the headache and stop acting like a cheap asshole.
Got my VW condenser and compressor installed. AC is ice cold and doesn't take a few minutes to kick in. I turn the AC on and it turns on immediately. Cos I returned that bootleg condenser. Thank you for the heads up.
Hey Tom, I had a question about replacing a condenser. When you replace a condenser, I know you're supposed to add a certain amount of oil back in, but is there a general rule of thumb you use for how much to add back in? Say, something like 20% of the total required refrigerant oil for the system? I'm working with a receiver-dryer expansion valve system btw.
All this information is in the manufactures instructions in the service manuals that need to be looked at because it could occasionally be different than the rule of thumb When most of the manuals were written, average, Refrigerant charges were 2.2 pounds or more and most cars had 7 ounces to 10 ounces of oil. They still re-print and re-publish the same old stuff for today’s cars when some cars only have 2.5 ounces of refrigerant oil total system, oil capacity and only 12 ounces of refrigerant. How can one rule of thumb be correct for all of them? I’ve read manuals that say condensers are 1 ounce I have read manuals that say condensers are 45 mL Which would make it 1.5 ounces. I’ve read service manual bulletins that say the condenser takes 2 ounces Some compressors will only have about an ounce inside the compressor may be a hair more and the other 2 1/2 to 3 ounces will be spread throughout all the other components Some compressors have 6 ounces inside the sum of the compressor all by itself Some may have 3 ounces in the cumulator Some manufacture say 2 ounces for evaporator another manufacturer, said 3 ounces for a evaporator . I’ve heard service manual say 1 ounce refrigerant Hose or line that’s incredibly way too much . There’s never an ounce of oil inside of a refrigerant house.. Unless it was a hose in an Escalade SUV, going from the rear evaporator all the way to the front of the engine to the compressor then I can see an ounce inside a hose . This is why you read the specific manuals for vehicles nowadays we need to cut off the thumbs of people who use rule of thumb .
@@coldfinger459sub0 That is a good answer. My manual for my 1998 Dodge B1500 van has that info. So many people have told me to just pour out the oil from the old condenser and add that amount into the new one but, like most folks, I am replacing this condenser because it was leaking. It had been leaking oil out of it before I bought the van, and for a week or two after so, probably not much oil in it now and no gas charge at all. Very educational video, thank you.
Q: if I had dodge ram 2014 151000km High pressure 150 psi Low pressure 20 psi Ambient 43°c (109 f) While the repair manual High pressure side 350 to 430 low pressure 40 to 50 psi In 43°c Does that mean the compressor is bad and need to be replaced? is it worth to charge with refrigrant (for test)?
Sounds like you’re low on refrigerant. I would recover all the refrigerant out of it, put it on the vacuum pump for an hour at least . If it’s your own personal vehicle, and you have all the Time in the world, no rush, leave it on the vacuum pump overnight or even 24 hours the more vacuum the better.. And then charge it up by weight only by the recommended manufacturers specifications . And then retest
Some of the Orion‘s are available from aftermarket source is cheaper through parts houses like Motorcraft or AC Delco for General Motors products DENSO for a lot of Japanese products But if you have a really old vehicle that was back in the days of 12 refrigerant and you don’t want to get one of those OEM you want to upgrade to a new modern microchannel parallel flow condenser, even if it is one of the cheaper aftermarkets with a microchannel it will definitely be better than the old Tube and fin
These companies need to be exposed like this. It's amazing how many other UA-camrs out there will not mention brands. Like why?
I’m so pissed 😤 now I WILL !!!…
Any company that waste my money or waste my time I will go for kamikaze on them, suicidal bomber to lose them money like they lose me, or my customers money .
I believe in an eye 👁️ for an 👁️ eye.
First testament Bible, following Jahari revenge
Against companies to lose, or piss me off .
For every dollar a company cost me in losses I will make sure I lose them 1000 or $10,000 for everyone I lose in time or direct financial losses .
That’s a good thing about the power of media, UA-cam, Twitter, Reddit Facebook .
If a company screws over their customers, a customer can take revenge and get back at them .
Wow I never knew this and have been buying these cheap condensers from rock auto. Most of the cars I did with these cheap condensers didn’t perform as well as the oem stuff. Thanks for your knowledge, keep up the good work.
Can I ask a question?
You purchase them, but your technicians are the ones installing them .
They don’t give you no feedback when the mounting brackets don’t quite fit right they have to force them bend them, or oval them out ?
They’ve never noticed sometimes when you attach the middle line to some aftermarket condensers, it’s not a slightly different angle, so the metal line will ride up and rub against the sheet metal where it passes through . It does no damage now but a year and a half and from now it becomes a rub through. ?
Your technicians have never brought up the fact to you that the OEM might have the foam that is attached all the way around the condenser to stop hot air bleed by from the engine compartment in reheating to refrigerant. Gas is missing on the aftermarket ones. ? Or maybe they don’t even know what this is for and do not think it’s important, so they just never mentioned it to you. ?
look at the shipping weight when buying a condenser on-line, I'd go for the "heavier" condenser.....I know it sounds crazy, but I'd rather get a used ultra low mile OEM condenser off say a 9,400 mile car vs new aftermarket....same for AC compressors and headlamp assemblies. Great video!!!
Go my mentor. Blast them garbage out of the market
Oh, when somebody pisses me off and waste my time and money, I will make sure they lose 1000 times more that’s the only way you can speak the language of large corporate companies.
They only know when they lose money they pay attention and change their ways .
If you keep quiet like a little sheep and bend over and take it from the big companies, they will keep giving it to you .
It's the same with cheap aftermarket radiators too.
Yes, do you remember back when Honda had the radiator on the right side and the condenser on the left side a little square ones. The cheap aftermarket radiators would work good in cold climates here in California like San Francisco.
But in the summertime when the customer would go and drive like down to Los Angeles and it was 110° and they would try to pull up a large he’ll like the grapevine they would blow engines left and right head gaskets galore off from aftermarket radiators .
Other cars did it too but that small Hondas were the most notorious and sensitive .
All that caused by cheap economy parts
The video is much appreciated. Bought one of these, it's otw as we speak expected to arrive Tue. Started feeling like I should research this brand cos it was only $78. After seeing this, ordering an OEM Condenser, probably gonna go with a genuine VW one tbh to save myself the headache and stop acting like a cheap asshole.
Got my VW condenser and compressor installed. AC is ice cold and doesn't take a few minutes to kick in. I turn the AC on and it turns on immediately. Cos I returned that bootleg condenser. Thank you for the heads up.
Hey Tom, I had a question about replacing a condenser. When you replace a condenser, I know you're supposed to add a certain amount of oil back in, but is there a general rule of thumb you use for how much to add back in? Say, something like 20% of the total required refrigerant oil for the system? I'm working with a receiver-dryer expansion valve system btw.
All this information is in the manufactures instructions in the service manuals that need to be looked at because it could occasionally be different than the rule of thumb
When most of the manuals were written, average, Refrigerant charges were 2.2 pounds or more and most cars had 7 ounces to 10 ounces of oil.
They still re-print and re-publish the same old stuff for today’s cars when some cars only have 2.5 ounces of refrigerant oil total system, oil capacity and only 12 ounces of refrigerant.
How can one rule of thumb be correct for all of them?
I’ve read manuals that say condensers are 1 ounce
I have read manuals that say condensers are 45 mL
Which would make it 1.5 ounces.
I’ve read service manual bulletins that say the condenser takes 2 ounces
Some compressors will only have about an ounce inside the compressor may be a hair more and the other 2 1/2 to 3 ounces will be spread throughout all the other components
Some compressors have 6 ounces inside the sum of the compressor all by itself
Some may have 3 ounces in the cumulator
Some manufacture say 2 ounces for evaporator another manufacturer, said 3 ounces for a evaporator .
I’ve heard service manual say 1 ounce refrigerant Hose or line that’s incredibly way too much . There’s never an ounce of oil inside of a refrigerant house..
Unless it was a hose in an Escalade SUV, going from the rear evaporator all the way to the front of the engine to the compressor then I can see an ounce inside a hose .
This is why you read the specific manuals for vehicles nowadays we need to cut off the thumbs of people who use rule of thumb .
@@coldfinger459sub0 That is a good answer. My manual for my 1998 Dodge B1500 van has that info. So many people have told me to just pour out the oil from the old condenser and add that amount into the new one but, like most folks, I am replacing this condenser because it was leaking. It had been leaking oil out of it before I bought the van, and for a week or two after so, probably not much oil in it now and no gas charge at all. Very educational video, thank you.
Q: if I had dodge ram 2014 151000km
High pressure 150 psi
Low pressure 20 psi
Ambient 43°c (109 f)
While the repair manual
High pressure side 350 to 430 low pressure 40 to 50 psi
In 43°c
Does that mean the compressor is bad and need to be replaced? is it worth to charge with refrigrant (for test)?
Sounds like you’re low on refrigerant.
I would recover all the refrigerant out of it, put it on the vacuum pump for an hour at least . If it’s your own personal vehicle, and you have all the Time in the world, no rush, leave it on the vacuum pump overnight or even 24 hours the more vacuum the better..
And then charge it up by weight only by the recommended manufacturers specifications .
And then retest
@@coldfinger459sub0 I forget to mention that the static pressure 125 psi while it should be around 150 psi
@@coldfinger459sub0 also it has contaminated refrigrant r134a and r1234yf
@@abdullwwful sounds like a lot of vapor and No liquid refrigerant..
Gotta find that leak
@@coldfinger459sub0 ok thanks
DAM i JUST BOUGHT ONE AS I ASSUMED BECAUSE THEY MAKE HP RADIATORS THAT IT WOULD BE OK. ICOULDNT FIND OEM WHOS DECENT?
Some of the Orion‘s are available from aftermarket source is cheaper through parts houses like Motorcraft or AC Delco for General Motors products DENSO for a lot of Japanese products
But if you have a really old vehicle that was back in the days of 12 refrigerant and you don’t want to get one of those OEM you want to upgrade to a new modern microchannel parallel flow condenser, even if it is one of the cheaper aftermarkets with a microchannel it will definitely be better than the old Tube and fin