Try cooling the oil directly. Firstly by putting fins directly onto the sump, for passive cooling, then by fitting an external cooler and finally by forcing air through the cooler, using a fan. You’ll get the oil to stay cool, which will increase your range, but eventually the cylinders will overheat where they’re close to each other, inside the block.
That Cylinder head and then the top of the cylinders is the hot spot. The temperature gauge should be monitoring the middle of the head. And much colder spark plugs.
Makes sense. If they soldered diretcly to the cylinder a LOT of fins and put 2 fans on each side that could have worked. I think it's still better to hook 3 oil coolers and that'll do the job!!!!
Most of the heat in an engine is concentrated in the head because the cylinders and the pistons have a constant supply of oil, the mixture is compressed against the head, the burning of the fuel mostly happens at the top of the cylinder against the head, and finally all of the exhaust needs to go through the head. Basically, the further down the cylinder you go, the less time the metal is exposed to hot gasses, while the head is constantly exposed. This is why there is a significant benefit in using aluminum heads, because the aluminum conducts the heat better. This is also probably why the previous experiment did better, because there was a constant flow of air through the head but this time they focused on the cylinders. Like was said before, try using a turbo run by the exhaust to blow through the cooling passages instead of blowing into the intake.
This was a really fun episode! My personal favorite so far. My advice would be to add as many cooling fins to the head as possible. Bottom end is much more effectively cooled by oil. Top end deals with exhaust and constant high speed friction. I'd be willing to bet, if you added cooling fans to the oil pan, at high way speeds the oil would probably stay within reasonable temperatures.
most aircooled engines employ the oil for pulling heat, if there's an oilcooler or the oil cooling is integrated into block fins and such is then is an another matter.
I'm guessing you've got about the same mount of cooling fin area as a 200cc single cylinder motorcycle engine, and most of that is on the block and not on the head where the majority of the heat is initially produced. As oil temp goes up, it's ability to carry heat away decreases and you get thermal runaway. You need to cool the head with lots of fins, much smaller in thickness and closer together than what you put on the block, and you need to keep fresh, cool air moving across them. And a big oil cooler would help too.
Air-cooled engines usually have an oil cooler. And I believe that for correct cooling, large spaced aluminum fins are needed. A solid block of aluminum will only hold heat for so long. As space is limited, I believe the solution would be sealed copper piping to conduct heat to an air radiator at the front of the vehicle. It is not necessary to fill the copper tube with any gas or liquid, just ordinary oxygen will produce a heat conduction reaction within it.
I think a giant oil cooler with its own fan would be worth a try. Installing some type of heatsinks/fins on the oil pan, valve cover, and lower end of the engine block should also help. The cooler you can keep the oil, the more heat it will be able to remove from the block, head, pistons, cylinders, etc as it flows through. The oil is normally cooled by the relatively cool coolant flowing through the block and head, but since there is no coolant in the engine, you will have to cool the oil some other way.
They make pans that have fins for cooling. As you drive the air keeps the temperature down. Never heard of needing a fan in that area. Think of high revving motorcycle engines. 17,000 rpm, never a fan. Air cooled or a radiator.
@@Mr.Robert1 I have seen those, some cars actually come with them from the factory. As for the fan, I was talking about putting one on a large radiator style oil cooler behind the grill. Normally a fan isn't needed on an oil cooler since the speed is normally high enough for plenty of wind in performance applications, but since they are driving at such low speeds and stopping all the time and there's no coolant to cool the oil, ram air certainly wouldn't be adequate on its own.
@averyalexander2303 Yes I've never seen a fan used on a motorcycle oil cooler before but all coolant radiators have an electric or mechanical fan of some sort fitted to them. Keeps temps down in traffic or else they could boil over. Liquid cooled engines are way more susceptible to overheating and head gasket damage than air/oil cooled motors.
@@packerbrewerbuck Oil coolers don't normally have fans because, assuming the primary cooling system works as intended (unlike his), the conditions which could overheat the oil (sustained high RPMs under a heavy load) would also mean lots of airflow from driving at a reasonably high speed. Stock vehicles won't overheat the oil at idle or while driving at 10-20 MPH, but his car obviously does. Just like a coolant radiator, the airflow while stopped and at such low speeds wouldn't adequately cool the oil cooler by itself, a fan would be needed in his application to ensure that the oil cooler always has good airflow regardless of speed.
Use an oil cooler and mount it on the intake of one of the fans blowing on the fins. It will heat the air up some but not enough to prevent it from cooling. In theory.
There is not enough air flow over the cooling fins, you'd need to make ducts for the air to leave the engine compartment, then the old hot air can go out letting new fresher, cooler air to enter, perhaps make air scoops in front to channel more airflow over the fins too. As many have pointed out, an oil cooler would be needed also. I love the work performed at Garage 54, it's like the mechanics version of Car 54, except we know where you are, could only happen in mother Russia! 😜
There is a lot of room to add more cooling fins, look at the amount of fins a motorcycle engine has. It is more fins than engine, so weld on a lot more cooling fins, in almost every space you can find. If you had tried this in winter, with a few more fins, it might have survived. Try an oil cooler for the oil.
Try again in the winter when it's really cold! Can confirm it works then, no modifications needed 😅 I once drove an old car of mine (03 Chevy Impala 3.4) 3 hours with not a drop of coolant. Head gasket blew and I had to get home! Watched the remaining coolant pour out of the engine, then got on the highway. Temp gauge fluctuated a bit as the remaining coolant boiled away, then settled in just above normal. Did fine until I got off the highway, had to drive several miles in town. It was smoking, chugging and ticking when I got home 😂 A week later and a head gasket set and it was good to go!
Next step would be to slap on a fuel/oil heat exchanger that puts some of the heat from the oil into the fuel that's about to be burned in the engine (just like in an airplane). Requires a fairly inefficient engine that burns a lot of fuel. Fortunately, it's a Lada so that particular feature comes pre-installed from the factory.
Try cleaning the cylinder barrels with acid before pouring in the aluminium. The rust and crud on the cylinders would act like insulation. You need to remove that.
Greetings from Ireland. Very interesting. How about an external oil cooler. How about making a big stirling engine to run a car, they did experiment a bit with this idea in the US back in the '70's.
By pouring such aluminum on this block, you certainly did not get good adhesion and thus heat dissipation. In addition, the ribs you welded did not increase the surface area that much compared to the factory cylinder surface. Just look at a 400cc air-cooled motorcycle engine, you need 4 times as many fins as it has. In addition, as I mentioned in the previous video, you must use an oil cooler with a possible second circuit with an additional pump pouring oil under low pressure in a large amount to the top of the head, so that it spits back into the bowl and receives additional heat.
this was a nice try very interesting , if u had more cooling fins on block that could have helped and maybe a oil cooler external . maybe nitrogen pumped into the block or head , anyway u had fun u guys never fail to entertain kudos to u all.
Only You need is 2 forced air system look a 913 DEUTZ MOTOR air ventury colling system. 👌 And cooling system for oil 🌟 For example a oilcooler of Fiat Palio 1.9D 👌
Excellent !. Try copper plating. 9:22 Partial seize ? tight. MORE fins dudes !!!! Next time remove rust from the iron bores. perhaps just an oil cooler too . :)
have you tried to send air from a fan through the cooling circuit.The air enters from the pipe where the water pump is housed and exits from the thermostat or vice versa. and all this without making any changes to the cylinder block
Old aircooled motorbikes were Air & Oil cooled, so, as well as fins on the cylinders, there was an oil cooler/radiator... This might help keep temps down 🤔😏 😎🇬🇧
As a pilot, we learnt that air cooling is a function of airflow/speed raised to the fifth power. Double air speed and the cooling effect is increased to 32 times. (Why air cooling is more efficient in some metal processing.)
Fin both oil pan and valve cover with a remote oil cooler like a 300d turbo diesel 123 . A small shroud from the vac form and a fan . Now you take a belt drive for a large ac unit , say a.75-1 meter diameter squirrel cage and chain it to the crank and use duct to cool pan valve cover and the other fins . You can get huge air from that size fan and if you increase the flow enough it will get cold. Or maybe drive a couple of blowers and then intercooler that and let it expand blowing on surfaces
Hey Vlad .. Something for you to experiment with.. How about running an engine lean then add C02 to bring the ratio back into line for safe running ? Will the C02 also have a cooling effect?. Best Regards Ian
Maybe pre-manufacture the aluminum cooling fins so you can have a higher number of thinner fins that stick out further with more surface area. Bolt them together with spacers in a stacked configuration & set them into the poured molten aluminum before it solidifies. Remove the bolts & spacers used to hold the fins together after the metal cools. Presto! also weld/solder fins to the valve cover & oilpan.
Possibly ring end-gaps are binding. Also, the cylinder head is where the majority of heat is at, not so much in the cylinder walls. Need fins on the head, and an oil cooler.
Very neat cooling system arrangement, what else to do to that block huh?, is there enough engineering thought for another conversion from 4-stroke to 2-stroke?, I know the lower end is slightly different, and giving it a loop charge arrangement could be difficult with all that aluminum in the way,....
That was fun to watch, though the "air cooling" was nowhere near enough. Look at how the original VW beetle boxer engine or the air cooled porche engine works; all cylinders have cooling fins and the oil is cooled by a small radiator on top of the engine. Thats just the cooling parts of the engine, the shroud over the top of both engines has air sucked into it with the fan system and directed through the oil cooler and past the cylinders. Regardless of their origin, the VW beetle and porshe engines were genius and WORKED
Needs an external oil cooler. Might also try circulating something through the head to keep the combustion chamber cooler. Maybe seal off the heads coolant passages at the head gasket surface and use the water jackets to circulate the engine oil through as well.
Use a copper or aluminum based oil cooler, . And if redoing pouring aluminum in the block gotta make sure there are no air spaces in the coolant ports. In the video it appeared there was air spaces in coolant ports leading up to the head.
It would be cool to make an oil cooled engine. Let the oil pump pump the oil through the block/head first, then through an oil cooler and into the normal oil passages last. Maybe use a high pressure/high flow oil pump
It would be interesting to see integrating a room air conditioner ( if not already done) for engine cooling, using a propane operated ( and perhaps modifying it to us vehicle’s fuel source)one for RV’s
It wouldn't work. I'd be surprised if it could even cool the engine at idle. A large portable AC is around 12,000 BTUs, which is only around 4.6 HP of cooling. As a very general rule of thumb, an engine requires at least as much cooling capacity as its power rating. For example, a 100 HP engine's radiator would have to be capable of dissipating a minimum of around 100 HP of heat while under full load. That's obviously a very rough rule of thumb, but it shows how much heat engines generate.
@@averyalexander2303 you're right, and there is more simple explanation: ACs are designed to cool primarily "passive" heat,where no new heat is generated, nothing like burning engines 😂
An idling engine sitting in someone's living room will make it unbearably hot long before the ac even has a chance to get going. Liquid is far better than gas for cooling applications.
Need to have the air blowing between the cylinders too, and have an oil cooler setup as well, cos aircooled car engines always have oil coolers in order to not burn the oil, as well as act as a coolant to stop the engine overheating... :P
Man, those lada engines can take a beating. You should apply the fins directly to the cylinder walls and inner surface of the head just like air cooled engines do by design.
Engineers could design a same size and horsepower engine with air fin cooling if they wanted. One good thing where you live is a good heater, which is easy with a water/coolant cooled engine. The old VW cars had cuffs on the exhausts that did not work very well.
We have a duetz fhar aircooled tractor that uses a high speed fan to cool the head’s and oil. A tractor has a very low rpm but the cooling fan spins insanely fast. all propelled by the engine and not an electric motor. Standing next to the output of the fan while in operation can knock you over and the output area is small you can guess the amount of cooling it is capable of producing
Increase the surface area as much as possible with fins while keeping the mass as low as possible. If you look at the jugs of a motorcycle engine the fins are long and there is only enough mass for the sleeve in the cylinder and the fins.
The hottest part of an engine is the head, it needs someway to radiate the heads. Look at a vw aircooled motor, the top of the cylinders of a lot bigger fins than the lower. and the heads are aluminum and even bigger. You also need to cool the oil and run more oil through.
Need more surface area. Even if its passive with no fan, put fins everywhere! On the valve cover, oil pan, block and head. And wherever there is not a fin, drill a hole if something won't leak out. It may get to the point it is not strong enough and crack and it will look like swiss cheese but it just may work.
Less molten aluminum but keep the fins and add a lot more fan ducting and baffles to run air directly past each piston like the DEUTZ air cooled diesels with the big belt driven fan
Only in Russia and countries similar to it like Lithuania, Latvia, Romania, etc. you would find a state of the art exclusive repair autoshop that you would think would be only settled in the middle of a city or something, but actually as you step out of it a few feet, all the broken down slums with dogs tied to fence start to appear and the environment transforms to the stalin era lol In my country where I live same thing, we have this amazing new shoping center that is the size of a football field, and then 10 meters away from it a wooden shack probably 120 years old where a baba yaga still lives lol
External oil cooler with a fan. I suspect the fuel is also boiling in the carb causing the no power issue, be sure the timing is advanced enough or will run too hot. Use a phenolic spacer on the carb. There needs to be airflow around the cylinders and head, best is with a shroud to contain and direct the airflow. Maybe an air/water intercooler system with a pump to chill the air may work.
making pistons from multiple metals/alloys like aluminum and copper maby lead i dont know what else but hope you guys could figure whats a best mix. to use
It may have worked better if the aluminum had been poured so that it would protrude from the block and the fins would be formed by cutting slits into the aluminum rather than welding them on. The welded on fins were also very roughly tacked on which did not make for the best thermal conduction.
Fill the head with aluminum after you clean it and weld heat sinks on it also Add the manual fan back to the front of the Motor and Add a Oil cooler inline with the Oil filter it will then work......
When I was a teenager, my Ford Pinto with a 289 v8 used to run at 180 degrees F. Are you measuring temperature in Centigrade? How 'bout removing the water jacket completely and welding iron or steel fins all around. Run brass oil lines to the top of the valve train. Build a manifold to weld around the holes drilled in the head and use a fan to force pressurized air through the head. Remove the grille to allow more air flow...
hey vlad love the videos 🤙 i wonder if nitrogen cooling the cylinder block would work like using temp sensor hole in head to inject nitrogen with a exhaust filter or breather in rear of the head
place an electric fan where the radiator normally goes, just to blow air on the fins welded to the side of the block. Next, install an oil cooler, to keep the oil temp under control.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Next time try to use a radiator to cool the oil. And add a fan to help the air flow through the radiator fins.
I was thinking this but actually route the oil through the cooling circuit too, so the water pump also pumps oil
Yeah because "air cooled" engines really use the oil as a type of coolant. Sort of...
Intresting!
Replace the water/antifreeze in the cooling system with used motor oil and see what happens?
@@K-Effect Well no I mean literally make the cooling system part of the oil system, have the water pump draw from the oil pan, etc.
You guys do more interesting novel ideas more than any other mainstream youtube channel. Its really cool.
It’s hot
Try cooling the oil directly.
Firstly by putting fins directly onto the sump, for passive cooling, then by fitting an external cooler and finally by forcing air through the cooler, using a fan.
You’ll get the oil to stay cool, which will increase your range, but eventually the cylinders will overheat where they’re close to each other, inside the block.
Aluminum is better at absorbing and releasing heat but there is too much mass. Not enough cooling fins and surface area for the heat to dissipate
That Cylinder head and then the top of the cylinders is the hot spot. The temperature gauge should be monitoring the middle of the head. And much colder spark plugs.
Makes sense. If they soldered diretcly to the cylinder a LOT of fins and put 2 fans on each side that could have worked. I think it's still better to hook 3 oil coolers and that'll do the job!!!!
Last time they did this there was snow and ice on the ground, that had to of helped
@@gabrielv.4358 The problem with that is the fact they filled both the water and oil passages with the aluminum
@@billyjackson5799 The oil passages were not filled with aluminum. Or the engine would have seized from oil starvation.
Most of the heat in an engine is concentrated in the head because the cylinders and the pistons have a constant supply of oil, the mixture is compressed against the head, the burning of the fuel mostly happens at the top of the cylinder against the head, and finally all of the exhaust needs to go through the head. Basically, the further down the cylinder you go, the less time the metal is exposed to hot gasses, while the head is constantly exposed. This is why there is a significant benefit in using aluminum heads, because the aluminum conducts the heat better. This is also probably why the previous experiment did better, because there was a constant flow of air through the head but this time they focused on the cylinders. Like was said before, try using a turbo run by the exhaust to blow through the cooling passages instead of blowing into the intake.
This was a really fun episode! My personal favorite so far.
My advice would be to add as many cooling fins to the head as possible. Bottom end is much more effectively cooled by oil. Top end deals with exhaust and constant high speed friction. I'd be willing to bet, if you added cooling fans to the oil pan, at high way speeds the oil would probably stay within reasonable temperatures.
most aircooled engines employ the oil for pulling heat, if there's an oilcooler or the oil cooling is integrated into block fins and such is then is an another matter.
I'm guessing you've got about the same mount of cooling fin area as a 200cc single cylinder motorcycle engine, and most of that is on the block and not on the head where the majority of the heat is initially produced. As oil temp goes up, it's ability to carry heat away decreases and you get thermal runaway. You need to cool the head with lots of fins, much smaller in thickness and closer together than what you put on the block, and you need to keep fresh, cool air moving across them. And a big oil cooler would help too.
Try adding a oil cooler to the system and also a hub or thermo fan to the front to get constant airflow. Would love to see the difference it makes.
Air-cooled engines usually have an oil cooler. And I believe that for correct cooling, large spaced aluminum fins are needed. A solid block of aluminum will only hold heat for so long.
As space is limited, I believe the solution would be sealed copper piping to conduct heat to an air radiator at the front of the vehicle. It is not necessary to fill the copper tube with any gas or liquid, just ordinary oxygen will produce a heat conduction reaction within it.
It's amazing to see how much punishment these engines take !
I’m genuinely surprised the engine did not seize the pistons to the bores.
I think a giant oil cooler with its own fan would be worth a try. Installing some type of heatsinks/fins on the oil pan, valve cover, and lower end of the engine block should also help. The cooler you can keep the oil, the more heat it will be able to remove from the block, head, pistons, cylinders, etc as it flows through. The oil is normally cooled by the relatively cool coolant flowing through the block and head, but since there is no coolant in the engine, you will have to cool the oil some other way.
They make pans that have fins for cooling.
As you drive the air keeps the temperature down. Never heard of needing a fan in that area. Think of high revving motorcycle engines. 17,000 rpm, never a fan. Air cooled or a radiator.
@@Mr.Robert1 All the high revving sport bike engines are liquid cooled with a radiator and fan, some have an oil cooler too
@@Mr.Robert1 I have seen those, some cars actually come with them from the factory. As for the fan, I was talking about putting one on a large radiator style oil cooler behind the grill. Normally a fan isn't needed on an oil cooler since the speed is normally high enough for plenty of wind in performance applications, but since they are driving at such low speeds and stopping all the time and there's no coolant to cool the oil, ram air certainly wouldn't be adequate on its own.
@averyalexander2303 Yes I've never seen a fan used on a motorcycle oil cooler before but all coolant radiators have an electric or mechanical fan of some sort fitted to them. Keeps temps down in traffic or else they could boil over. Liquid cooled engines are way more susceptible to overheating and head gasket damage than air/oil cooled motors.
@@packerbrewerbuck Oil coolers don't normally have fans because, assuming the primary cooling system works as intended (unlike his), the conditions which could overheat the oil (sustained high RPMs under a heavy load) would also mean lots of airflow from driving at a reasonably high speed. Stock vehicles won't overheat the oil at idle or while driving at 10-20 MPH, but his car obviously does. Just like a coolant radiator, the airflow while stopped and at such low speeds wouldn't adequately cool the oil cooler by itself, a fan would be needed in his application to ensure that the oil cooler always has good airflow regardless of speed.
Use an oil cooler and mount it on the intake of one of the fans blowing on the fins. It will heat the air up some but not enough to prevent it from cooling. In theory.
A majority of the heat is in the head/exhaust port area. Cooling the cylinders helps, but the head needs some sort of cooling.
There is not enough air flow over the cooling fins, you'd need to make ducts for the air to leave the engine compartment, then the old hot air can go out letting new fresher, cooler air to enter, perhaps make air scoops in front to channel more airflow over the fins too. As many have pointed out, an oil cooler would be needed also. I love the work performed at Garage 54, it's like the mechanics version of Car 54, except we know where you are, could only happen in mother Russia! 😜
Next 2-stroke lada engine!!!
Yesss that would be awesome
Great idea
Great idea
Then try using RC nitro fuel to see the fuel can produce more power.
There is a lot of room to add more cooling fins, look at the amount of fins a motorcycle engine has. It is more fins than engine, so weld on a lot more cooling fins, in almost every space you can find. If you had tried this in winter, with a few more fins, it might have survived. Try an oil cooler for the oil.
Put a big fat oil cooler on it next
Try again in the winter when it's really cold! Can confirm it works then, no modifications needed 😅 I once drove an old car of mine (03 Chevy Impala 3.4) 3 hours with not a drop of coolant. Head gasket blew and I had to get home! Watched the remaining coolant pour out of the engine, then got on the highway. Temp gauge fluctuated a bit as the remaining coolant boiled away, then settled in just above normal. Did fine until I got off the highway, had to drive several miles in town. It was smoking, chugging and ticking when I got home 😂 A week later and a head gasket set and it was good to go!
The cylinder head needs some sort of cooling too. The head has to deal with a good portion of the combustion heat, as well as the exhaust heat.
Next step would be to slap on a fuel/oil heat exchanger that puts some of the heat from the oil into the fuel that's about to be burned in the engine (just like in an airplane).
Requires a fairly inefficient engine that burns a lot of fuel. Fortunately, it's a Lada so that particular feature comes pre-installed from the factory.
Try cleaning the cylinder barrels with acid before pouring in the aluminium.
The rust and crud on the cylinders would act like insulation. You need to remove that.
At first glance, I was expecting the molten alu to explode. Then realized, the block was pre-heated. They were lucky.
That first plug on 0:13 is the moment when you know what's gonna happen and getting ready to say oh crap not again
Greetings from Ireland. Very interesting. How about an external oil cooler. How about making a big stirling engine to run a car, they did experiment a bit with this idea in the US back in the '70's.
By pouring such aluminum on this block, you certainly did not get good adhesion and thus heat dissipation. In addition, the ribs you welded did not increase the surface area that much compared to the factory cylinder surface. Just look at a 400cc air-cooled motorcycle engine, you need 4 times as many fins as it has. In addition, as I mentioned in the previous video, you must use an oil cooler with a possible second circuit with an additional pump pouring oil under low pressure in a large amount to the top of the head, so that it spits back into the bowl and receives additional heat.
7:50...😄 Little doggo gets triggered, boss man laughs.
this was a nice try very interesting , if u had more cooling fins on block that could have helped and maybe a oil cooler external . maybe nitrogen pumped into the block or head , anyway u had fun u guys never fail to entertain kudos to u all.
Only You need is 2 forced air system
look a 913 DEUTZ MOTOR air ventury colling system. 👌
And cooling system for oil 🌟 For example a oilcooler of Fiat Palio 1.9D 👌
Excellent !. Try copper plating. 9:22 Partial seize ? tight. MORE fins dudes !!!! Next time remove rust from the iron bores. perhaps just an oil cooler too . :)
This might have worked if you had more surface area for the aluminum to shed heat.
I think that engine just wanted to yell "GO TO HELL VLAD!!" 🤣🤣🤣 poor little bastard
You and team work like oil mechanics congratulations keep up good job
have you tried to send air from a fan through the cooling circuit.The air enters from the pipe where the water pump is housed and exits from the thermostat or vice versa. and all this without making any changes to the cylinder block
Great video!
Let me ask which temperature was there outside?
Maybe you should repeat the test in the middle of the winter!
Old aircooled motorbikes were Air & Oil cooled, so, as well as fins on the cylinders, there was an oil cooler/radiator... This might help keep temps down 🤔😏
😎🇬🇧
As a pilot, we learnt that air cooling is a function of airflow/speed raised to the fifth power. Double air speed and the cooling effect is increased to 32 times. (Why air cooling is more efficient in some metal processing.)
wow these guys are taking crazy creativity to boss level!
Drill holes through the aluminum between the cylinders and add scoops to direct the airflow through the engine with a fan for idle purposes
Fin both oil pan and valve cover with a remote oil cooler like a 300d turbo diesel 123 . A small shroud from the vac form and a fan . Now you take a belt drive for a large ac unit , say a.75-1 meter diameter squirrel cage and chain it to the crank and use duct to cool pan valve cover and the other fins . You can get huge air from that size fan and if you increase the flow enough it will get cold. Or maybe drive a couple of blowers and then intercooler that and let it expand blowing on surfaces
I’m wondering if you make a large oil cooler could you achieve the same outcome ? Something using the AC to super cool the oil?
Try to use a mechanical fan directly to the cylinder block, exactly as it works on a aircool engine like porche 911.
Beetle too
Hey Vlad I am wondering if you could actually keep a motor cool with just extreme oil coolers just an experiment I was thinking about
You can cool an engine with oil, it's been done. Suzuki's GSXR750 was predominantly oil cooled, as are some BMW motorcycle engines.
Try using a big oilcooler + coolingfins on the oilsump
Hey Vlad .. Something for you to experiment with.. How about running an engine lean then add C02 to bring the ratio back into line for safe running ? Will the C02 also have a cooling effect?. Best Regards Ian
Maybe pre-manufacture the aluminum cooling fins so you can have a higher number of thinner fins that stick out further with more surface area. Bolt them together with spacers in a stacked configuration & set them into the poured molten aluminum before it solidifies. Remove the bolts & spacers used to hold the fins together after the metal cools. Presto! also weld/solder fins to the valve cover & oilpan.
plz do an experiment with pure oxygen in the induction
Possibly ring end-gaps are binding.
Also, the cylinder head is where the majority of heat is at, not so much in the cylinder walls.
Need fins on the head, and an oil cooler.
Always nice to watch your videos!
Very neat cooling system arrangement, what else to do to that block huh?, is there enough engineering thought for another conversion from 4-stroke to 2-stroke?, I know the lower end is slightly different, and giving it a loop charge arrangement could be difficult with all that aluminum in the way,....
keep in mind an air cooled engine tends to run much hotter than a liquid cooled one not only that but most air cooled are oil cooled as well
That was fun to watch, though the "air cooling" was nowhere near enough. Look at how the original VW beetle boxer engine or the air cooled porche engine works; all cylinders have cooling fins and the oil is cooled by a small radiator on top of the engine.
Thats just the cooling parts of the engine, the shroud over the top of both engines has air sucked into it with the fan system and directed through the oil cooler and past the cylinders.
Regardless of their origin, the VW beetle and porshe engines were genius and WORKED
Garage 54, where Ladas go to die a sometimes hideous death in the name of science 😂
bigger oil coolers with fans on the oil coolers. A big rad type fan would help push air over the motor too.
Needs an external oil cooler. Might also try circulating something through the head to keep the combustion chamber cooler. Maybe seal off the heads coolant passages at the head gasket surface and use the water jackets to circulate the engine oil through as well.
Use a copper or aluminum based oil cooler, . And if redoing pouring aluminum in the block gotta make sure there are no air spaces in the coolant ports. In the video it appeared there was air spaces in coolant ports leading up to the head.
I really love those Lada cars thay are just bullet proof I wish I could find one hear in Minnesota 😁
It would be cool to make an oil cooled engine. Let the oil pump pump the oil through the block/head first, then through an oil cooler and into the normal oil passages last.
Maybe use a high pressure/high flow oil pump
I didn't see your comment, but yeah, that should work very well.
It would be interesting to see integrating a room air conditioner ( if not already done) for engine cooling, using a propane operated ( and perhaps modifying it to us vehicle’s fuel source)one for RV’s
It wouldn't work. I'd be surprised if it could even cool the engine at idle. A large portable AC is around 12,000 BTUs, which is only around 4.6 HP of cooling. As a very general rule of thumb, an engine requires at least as much cooling capacity as its power rating. For example, a 100 HP engine's radiator would have to be capable of dissipating a minimum of around 100 HP of heat while under full load. That's obviously a very rough rule of thumb, but it shows how much heat engines generate.
@@averyalexander2303 you're right, and there is more simple explanation: ACs are designed to cool primarily "passive" heat,where no new heat is generated, nothing like burning engines 😂
An idling engine sitting in someone's living room will make it unbearably hot long before the ac even has a chance to get going. Liquid is far better than gas for cooling applications.
Need to have the air blowing between the cylinders too, and have an oil cooler setup as well, cos aircooled car engines always have oil coolers in order to not burn the oil, as well as act as a coolant to stop the engine overheating... :P
Why not aluminum oil can too plus heating exchangers like the engine and a fan for there too?
I think you should try it again next winter at negative 30.
Man, those lada engines can take a beating. You should apply the fins directly to the cylinder walls and inner surface of the head just like air cooled engines do by design.
Add an auxiliary oil cooler with a fan. That should help dissipate the heat. BTW that's 1 tough LADA! Almost reminds me of a Chevrolet.
I like the aluminum fill, should add a ton of boost, Stout con. Rods 😂
Engineers could design a same size and horsepower engine with air fin cooling if they wanted. One good thing where you live is a good heater, which is easy with a water/coolant cooled engine. The old VW cars had cuffs on the exhausts that did not work very well.
“It did get somewhat hot” needle fucking buried past the red
We have a duetz fhar aircooled tractor that uses a high speed fan to cool the head’s and oil. A tractor has a very low rpm but the cooling fan spins insanely fast. all propelled by the engine and not an electric motor. Standing next to the output of the fan while in operation can knock you over and the output area is small you can guess the amount of cooling it is capable of producing
Increase the surface area as much as possible with fins while keeping the mass as low as possible. If you look at the jugs of a motorcycle engine the fins are long and there is only enough mass for the sleeve in the cylinder and the fins.
I see a new post here and think "Time for another Crazy Ivan!"
You guys should make your own core box and pour an aluminum block of your own installing sleeves etc...
With the aluminum fins, how would it work with ducts and a shroud using the factory crank fan to push the air over the fins
Next try an oil cooled lada engine! It would be cool!!
The hottest part of an engine is the head, it needs someway to radiate the heads. Look at a vw aircooled motor, the top of the cylinders of a lot bigger fins than the lower. and the heads are aluminum and even bigger.
You also need to cool the oil and run more oil through.
Need more surface area. Even if its passive with no fan, put fins everywhere! On the valve cover, oil pan, block and head. And wherever there is not a fin, drill a hole if something won't leak out. It may get to the point it is not strong enough and crack and it will look like swiss cheese but it just may work.
Less molten aluminum but keep the fins and add a lot more fan ducting and baffles to run air directly past each piston like the DEUTZ air cooled diesels with the big belt driven fan
Only in Russia and countries similar to it like Lithuania, Latvia, Romania, etc. you would find a state of the art exclusive repair autoshop that you would think would be only settled in the middle of a city or something, but actually as you step out of it a few feet, all the broken down slums with dogs tied to fence start to appear and the environment transforms to the stalin era lol In my country where I live same thing, we have this amazing new shoping center that is the size of a football field, and then 10 meters away from it a wooden shack probably 120 years old where a baba yaga still lives lol
you guys should try to create a VTEC lada engine
Add an oil cooler !
what if you now added a big ass oil cooler? That would be interesting. and more fins or maybe shrouding over the fins?
You should see how much Bhp and speed you can get out of a lada engine with tuning
Try an air ram that leads to the cooling fins. With an exit and isolation over the cooling fins
External oil cooler with a fan. I suspect the fuel is also boiling in the carb causing the no power issue, be sure the timing is advanced enough or will run too hot. Use a phenolic spacer on the carb. There needs to be airflow around the cylinders and head, best is with a shroud to contain and direct the airflow. Maybe an air/water intercooler system with a pump to chill the air may work.
Honda does that spacer i think
You guys are awesome! What about just leaving the cylinders free without anything surrounding them?
Always awesome videos!!
Put a heatsink on the head too and use a transmission cooler to cool the engine oil
making pistons from multiple metals/alloys like aluminum and copper maby lead i dont know what else but hope you guys could figure whats a best mix. to use
Put a fan cooled oil cooler on it. Air cooled engines have large oil coolers on them
Do it again without filling the water jacket with aluminum, then use a very powerful squirrel cage fan to blow air across the cylinders. 😃
That's what they did with the first test. The blower they used is a heater blower, they move a lot of air when used bare like they did.
Replace engine coolant with fuel. Pre-heat the fuel to see if engine makes more power. If fuel can cool the engine
It may have worked better if the aluminum had been poured so that it would protrude from the block and the fins would be formed by cutting slits into the aluminum rather than welding them on. The welded on fins were also very roughly tacked on which did not make for the best thermal conduction.
Rebuild the top end and build a triple expansion steam engine. Having issues with heat? Perfect.
I think it will work if you put more aluminum fins or weld aluminum pipes to bigger fins for more heat dissipation
Fill the head with aluminum after you clean it and weld heat sinks on it also Add the manual fan back to the front of the Motor and Add a Oil cooler inline with the Oil filter it will then work......
What happens when you replace engine coolant with freon?
That was aLada heat 🔥🔥
Install several large oil cooling radiators!! Take as much heat out of the oil as you can 👍
When I was a teenager, my Ford Pinto with a 289 v8 used to run at 180 degrees F. Are you measuring temperature in Centigrade? How 'bout removing the water jacket completely and welding iron or steel fins all around. Run brass oil lines to the top of the valve train. Build a manifold to weld around the holes drilled in the head and use a fan to force pressurized air through the head. Remove the grille to allow more air flow...
hey vlad love the videos 🤙 i wonder if nitrogen cooling the cylinder block would work like using temp sensor hole in head to inject nitrogen with a exhaust filter or breather in rear of the head
place an electric fan where the radiator normally goes, just to blow air on the fins welded to the side of the block. Next, install an oil cooler, to keep the oil temp under control.
More cooling fins and an electric fan upfront to keep air moving. Most small air cooled engines have some kind of fan