0:00 Jimmy C4 14” ebike battery removal 0:06 the battery is hidden inside the frame and must exit the back so we have to remove the taillight assembly. 0:20 remove 2x small Phillips head screws, one on top and one on bottom. 1:54 this is the HobbyWing 9044 16a controller. 2::30 To get the battery out we need to remove as many if these wires as possible from the pathway. 2:55 disconnect the phase wire connector 3:08 No wait, lets disconnect the XT60 battery connector first so the controller has no power. 3:40 Whats this white wire? Temperature sensor? Did it get disconnected? Nope, just not used with this controller. 3:53 Ok now let’s disconnect the phase wire connector. 4:10 and next disconnect the hall sensor connector. 4:25 now the display connector 4:36 next PAS (3-wire) and then headlight (2-wire) connectors. 4:53 next we disconnect the charge port connector and the controller with taillight is free 5:28 remove cable protector from the motor cables and PAS cable. 5:54 now I pull the motor cables (phase and hall) out of the frame 6:28 Now the PAS cable is removed. 6:55 at this point rear brake cable, the display cable and the headlight cable are the only cables that the battery must be pulled over to get out 8:13 at first the battery flat spot is not aligned with the cables so the cables are blocking it, so i push it back in. 8:26 that blue ribbon is a pull strap on the battery. Without it getting the battery out would be a nightmare. Lol 12:38 tired of digging fkr that blue ribbon so I get a tie wrap to extend it out where i can grab it easier. 13:10 I realized I need to rotate the battery so that the flat spot is on the bottom so it can slide over the brake cable, and i must get the display and headlight cable neatly laying flat next to the brake cable, so I push the pack in and out while rotating my pliers clockwise 14:05 the pack uses hexagon arrangement, which would allow 7 cells, but one cell was omitted to allow for BMS and flat spot that allows it to come out past the cables. 14:09 now we can see the tube and wires the battery must slide past 14:16 the pack is 10s4p (40 cells) 18650, arranged in 6-cell sections, stacked 7 sections long. If I want to upgrade the battery with P30B, i can get 10s4p, 13s3p, or 20s2p. 14:20 here the flat side is clearly shown. Make sure its on the bottom during reassembly. 14:31 strange they have a water indicator but the battery and controller are 100% water proof. Lol 14:40 this controller is fully sealed. There is a video showing them submerging it in water and running the motor 15:04 XT 30 would have been more than enough. The XT60 is overkill lol. But these are from the RC world were XT60 on lipo packs are common.
0:00 Jimmy C4 14” ebike battery removal
0:06 the battery is hidden inside the frame and must exit the back so we have to remove the taillight assembly.
0:20 remove 2x small Phillips head screws, one on top and one on bottom.
1:54 this is the HobbyWing 9044 16a controller.
2::30 To get the battery out we need to remove as many if these wires as possible from the pathway.
2:55 disconnect the phase wire connector
3:08 No wait, lets disconnect the XT60 battery connector first so the controller has no power.
3:40 Whats this white wire? Temperature sensor? Did it get disconnected? Nope, just not used with this controller.
3:53 Ok now let’s disconnect the phase wire connector.
4:10 and next disconnect the hall sensor connector.
4:25 now the display connector
4:36 next PAS (3-wire) and then headlight (2-wire) connectors.
4:53 next we disconnect the charge port connector and the controller with taillight is free
5:28 remove cable protector from the motor cables and PAS cable.
5:54 now I pull the motor cables (phase and hall) out of the frame
6:28 Now the PAS cable is removed.
6:55 at this point rear brake cable, the display cable and the headlight cable are the only cables that the battery must be pulled over to get out
8:13 at first the battery flat spot is not aligned with the cables so the cables are blocking it, so i push it back in.
8:26 that blue ribbon is a pull strap on the battery. Without it getting the battery out would be a nightmare. Lol
12:38 tired of digging fkr that blue ribbon so I get a tie wrap to extend it out where i can grab it easier.
13:10 I realized I need to rotate the battery so that the flat spot is on the bottom so it can slide over the brake cable, and i must get the display and headlight cable neatly laying flat next to the brake cable, so I push the pack in and out while rotating my pliers clockwise
14:05 the pack uses hexagon arrangement, which would allow 7 cells, but one cell was omitted to allow for BMS and flat spot that allows it to come out past the cables.
14:09 now we can see the tube and wires the battery must slide past
14:16 the pack is 10s4p (40 cells) 18650, arranged in 6-cell sections, stacked 7 sections long. If I want to upgrade the battery with P30B, i can get 10s4p, 13s3p, or 20s2p.
14:20 here the flat side is clearly shown. Make sure its on the bottom during reassembly.
14:31 strange they have a water indicator but the battery and controller are 100% water proof. Lol
14:40 this controller is fully sealed. There is a video showing them submerging it in water and running the motor
15:04 XT 30 would have been more than enough. The XT60 is overkill lol. But these are from the RC world were XT60 on lipo packs are common.