I didn't change out the control levers to a SAE 2 joystick setup. With the modifications and additions I've already made I'm close to or over $5000. I had to replace the original bucket as it broke. I took the new bucket to a local welding shop and had them beef it up to make it stronger. I bought another bucket and cut the teeth off making it a smooth lip bucket for trenching in soft soil or dredging ditches. I dig french drains and I like the smooth lip for that because it leaves a nice smooth bottom in the trench. I also bought some Case backhoe outrigger feet and bolted them to a piece of angle iron so I could bolt them to the part of my outriggers that sink into the ground. This works well for not tearing up a lawn when crabbing it into position and for working on asphalt or cement drives. Someone saw my little backhoe and offered me $4800 for it, but that wouldn't cover the parts and labor that I have in it. So that may be something to keep in mind if you get one of these things to use for a while with the intention of selling it later. You can spend a lot of money very quickly modifying this thing.
7:10 talking about if he changes the control valve body... It doesn't need new hoses. They make adapters from metric hose to SAE valve body ports. Need 8 of the things, but cheaper than new hoses. I would like electric start for my backhoe but not enough to pay for a new engine while this one works fine. I do plan to get the upgrade pump. My option for the extra wheels is I bought one of Harbor Freight's small 40 X 48 trailer kits. Making a deck with an adapter plate to cradle the front of the backhoe and tow it. I'll copy this set of square tubes to store the outriggers though. I'm also deleting the boom lock. It's too weak to do anything other than break if you forget to unlock it. Just pull the cotter pin and take it off. If you want to lock the boom, use a chain. You'll see that before you start pulling levers.
that 13-horse engine can easily run a 6 gpm hydraulic pump... which, allows you to use one function very fast ... two functions fast to moderate ... three functions will all run at the original speed of just one function .... and you can actually use all four functions, but it is agonizingly slow ...... the original speed of functions was, for me, painfully slow. if you do use the 6 gpm pump you will really need to learn to use several functions at the same time because it gets jumpy and will slam you around and throw you off of the machine if you get too aggressive with your dig . a real blessing of having the increased speed , is being able to shake the bucket clean when you are digging wet material
If I get a harbor freight back hoe I will move the swing valve to the floorboard on the right and put the bucket valve down on the left side that way it will operate better. I ran a Gradall for years and it was a breeze to operate that would give your feet something to do and all you would have up top is the boom levers you could make rocker pedals for your foot valves
Unfortunately, the 4-valve body in the Harbor Freight unit can't be reasonably separated to mount one valve on the floorboard. so it's a somewhat expensive modification.
This is a good one. I've got an older Kabota cylinder tractor. Have been thinking about building a front end loader for it. Wanted a backhoe as well. When I got it the 3point was missing. It's not hard to make , but have always wanted a smaller backhoe , since using a terormite. Anyway have thought about getting one of these and mounting it under that little Kabota , coming off the backhoe frame with the loader frame. Mounting it all to every possible axle , Bell housing front axle Mounting place on the tractor. Not welding the front end loader to the backhoe frame , but make good bolting mounts to it and also to the tractor , to make it all Ridgid together. Most addon backhoes I've seen destroyed the tractors in little time. Also add on hydraulic stabilizer arms. Do you think this would be a decent idea??? As I said it is a smaller Kabota 18 HP , about the size of a Farmall Cub Lowboy. Or a little smaller. But Bigger than a Cub Cadet.
You want a loader AND a backhoe for an old tractor... you'll make a nightmare if you do it yourself, or cost as much as a good used tractor that already has the loader and backhoe. So, just sell the current tractor and buy a good used one that already has what you want. You'll be getting a slightly larger tractor. I know this is a late reply... but hopefully it helps someone not make a bad choice.
I have one I've done lots of upgrades Bigger Hydraulic Pump I went to a 4point 1 It has 2point 7 which is ok but weak I put golf cart canopy on it Bigger hoses feed an return removable tow hitch 4 wheels like youres I put washers on floor boards were outriggers pin to But one thing I did was the feed lines That feed into cylinders I open the hose Side that supply more fluid to cylinders I put tractor seat on it Next I swamp the dipper arms to make Bucket so reach out better
Question aboot the grease fittings on the pivot pin. Are you able to replace them with extended fittings? Or would they break off when the boom swings?
Too easy to break a normal zerk. The needle zerks are not a problem to grease. Cheap adapter. I now have 3 grease guns... Boat (marine grease), normal zerk and needle zerk. I didn't try removing one of the needle zerks from a pin, but I have a broken pin and could try it. (If I ever remember to look back here after trying... I get zero notifications of replies to comments.)
Several videos have the part number for the upgrade pump. Just search: "Harbor Freight Backhoe pump upgrade." He mentions the brand and that it is 4.X gpm (it's 4.2 gpm for one that brand which I know gets used) There's a little machine shop .. or back yard milling... work to do on the pump to engine coupler. Not hard. Can be done with a step drill.
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I didn't change out the control levers to a SAE 2 joystick setup. With the modifications and additions I've already made I'm close to or over $5000. I had to replace the original bucket as it broke. I took the new bucket to a local welding shop and had them beef it up to make it stronger. I bought another bucket and cut the teeth off making it a smooth lip bucket for trenching in soft soil or dredging ditches. I dig french drains and I like the smooth lip for that because it leaves a nice smooth bottom in the trench. I also bought some Case backhoe outrigger feet and bolted them to a piece of angle iron so I could bolt them to the part of my outriggers that sink into the ground. This works well for not tearing up a lawn when crabbing it into position and for working on asphalt or cement drives. Someone saw my little backhoe and offered me $4800 for it, but that wouldn't cover the parts and labor that I have in it. So that may be something to keep in mind if you get one of these things to use for a while with the intention of selling it later. You can spend a lot of money very quickly modifying this thing.
Thanks for taking your time to make this video. I appreciate the insights.
7:10 talking about if he changes the control valve body... It doesn't need new hoses. They make adapters from metric hose to SAE valve body ports. Need 8 of the things, but cheaper than new hoses.
I would like electric start for my backhoe but not enough to pay for a new engine while this one works fine.
I do plan to get the upgrade pump.
My option for the extra wheels is I bought one of Harbor Freight's small 40 X 48 trailer kits. Making a deck with an adapter plate to cradle the front of the backhoe and tow it. I'll copy this set of square tubes to store the outriggers though.
I'm also deleting the boom lock. It's too weak to do anything other than break if you forget to unlock it. Just pull the cotter pin and take it off. If you want to lock the boom, use a chain. You'll see that before you start pulling levers.
That was a damn good detailed review
I want to dig a 10' x12' root celler with mine. My ground is primarily sand. Whatcha think? Dandahermit.
I made the same modification to the locking pin on my boom. It was easy, just moved the lever the wrong way.
Funny, I bent the locking point post the second day I had mine.
Still faster than a shovel
that 13-horse engine can easily run a 6 gpm hydraulic pump... which, allows you to use one function very fast ... two functions fast to moderate ... three functions will all run at the original speed of just one function .... and you can actually use all four functions, but it is agonizingly slow ...... the original speed of functions was, for me, painfully slow.
if you do use the 6 gpm pump you will really need to learn to use several functions at the same time because it gets jumpy and will slam you around and throw you off of the machine if you get too aggressive with your dig .
a real blessing of having the increased speed , is being able to shake the bucket clean when you are digging wet material
Northern Hydraulic has a towable 15hp two valve backhoe for same price
you could make up a ripper blade to cut tree roots
You can buy a ripping blade for the roots
I have heard a Kubota ripper exists that fits.
Thanks for the info, I plan on implementing all of the great ideas that you shared. What is the PVC pipe extension on the fluid cap for?
Bravo Ottimo Lavoro
If I get a harbor freight back hoe I will move the swing valve to the floorboard on the right and put the bucket valve down on the left side that way it will operate better. I ran a Gradall for years and it was a breeze to operate that would give your feet something to do and all you would have up top is the boom levers you could make rocker pedals for your foot valves
Unfortunately, the 4-valve body in the Harbor Freight unit can't be reasonably separated to mount one valve on the floorboard.
so it's a somewhat expensive modification.
This is a good one. I've got an older Kabota cylinder tractor. Have been thinking about building a front end loader for it. Wanted a backhoe as well. When I got it the 3point was missing. It's not hard to make , but have always wanted a smaller backhoe , since using a terormite. Anyway have thought about getting one of these and mounting it under that little Kabota , coming off the backhoe frame with the loader frame. Mounting it all to every possible axle , Bell housing front axle Mounting place on the tractor. Not welding the front end loader to the backhoe frame , but make good bolting mounts to it and also to the tractor , to make it all Ridgid together. Most addon backhoes I've seen destroyed the tractors in little time. Also add on hydraulic stabilizer arms.
Do you think this would be a decent idea??? As I said it is a smaller Kabota 18 HP , about the size of a Farmall Cub Lowboy. Or a little smaller. But Bigger than a Cub Cadet.
You want a loader AND a backhoe for an old tractor... you'll make a nightmare if you do it yourself, or cost as much as a good used tractor that already has the loader and backhoe.
So, just sell the current tractor and buy a good used one that already has what you want.
You'll be getting a slightly larger tractor.
I know this is a late reply... but hopefully it helps someone not make a bad choice.
I have one I've done lots of upgrades
Bigger Hydraulic Pump I went to a 4point 1
It has 2point 7 which is ok but weak
I put golf cart canopy on it
Bigger hoses feed an return removable tow hitch
4 wheels like youres I put washers on floor boards were outriggers pin to
But one thing I did was the feed lines
That feed into cylinders I open the hose
Side that supply more fluid to cylinders
I put tractor seat on it
Next I swamp the dipper arms to make
Bucket so reach out better
Not sure what to think of this harbor freight backhoe? From the videos I've watched, most people have made some pretty expensive modifications.
Yes, but they were able to use the backhoe while getting and maki g the mods. And learn what needed to be change for they're ease of operation.
that a good job
Can you tell where you got the pump and a part number? Thanks.
Question aboot the grease fittings on the pivot pin. Are you able to replace them with extended fittings? Or would they break off when the boom swings?
Too easy to break a normal zerk.
The needle zerks are not a problem to grease. Cheap adapter.
I now have 3 grease guns... Boat (marine grease), normal zerk and needle zerk.
I didn't try removing one of the needle zerks from a pin, but I have a broken pin and could try it.
(If I ever remember to look back here after trying... I get zero notifications of replies to comments.)
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What pump did you use, I'm trying to find a compatible pump for mine
Several videos have the part number for the upgrade pump. Just search: "Harbor Freight Backhoe pump upgrade."
He mentions the brand and that it is 4.X gpm (it's 4.2 gpm for one that brand which I know gets used)
There's a little machine shop .. or back yard milling... work to do on the pump to engine coupler. Not hard. Can be done with a step drill.