After going on a used engine hunting odyssey, I've come to the conclusion that horizontal shaft V-twins are horrendously marked up for no other reason than 'just because'. You can get the same vertical shaft engine of any variant of another for 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of a horizontal shaft. Just on Monday, I came across a guy that wanted $500 for TWO Vanguards, but they were both verticals; one was definitely a parts status, but the other was primo. I was tempted to fabricate a dry sump oil system for them but ended up going the 18hp Duromax route to repower a '77 214. Doing an engine plate seemed a lot easier to deal with for a winter project that will be taking place outside for the most part because too slender of a door to get the tractor inside.
Saved my 49 from a dumpster at work, we were stripping old scrap down in back. I tore it down to just the case and pitched it all. Next day I got the bright idea to build a 49 to swap in place of the 40. That 49 had under 100hrs on it and they had governor issues on generator applications. It rained all night and the cylinders had a nice surface rust coating. Slapped some oil on it ,brought it to the shop that night and cleaned em up enough so it didn't get worse. Hot tip , I saved about an ounce per cylinder by using the early 40 rods in a "late" 49 block. I used my 40 crank, as the 49 crank was tapered. So , early 40 rods and wrist pins in a 49 will save you almost 30 grams per hole. She sure does rev up nice now. Edit: 40/44/49 is an Intek, not a Vanguard 😁 And 40/44/49 all have the same stroke, it's the piston diameter that gives the size difference.
22:30 when we used vannies in powr-gard standby generators, they routed the ignition kill thru the oil pressure switch. Haha every time after an oil change you'd crank them a good 6-10 seconds before they'd build up enough pressure to allow spark.
Just had to do the same thing to a 16 horsepower Onan on a Lincwelder 225. I used a wooden stick to get most of the rust out after I added marvel Mystery oil.
Make sure to use some oil when honing cylinders. A little motor oil, wd40, etc. My favorite is transmission fluid, since it’s a detergent it cleans really well.
I can't believe that rusted side has enough compression to run. I'm tinkering with a 16hp with a 23 hp cam. Got the block back together, went up a size in the jet and thinking about a 12v fan on top instead of the flywheel fan. I'll probably have to rig up an automotive style alternator but we'll see.
Surprised I haven't seen you either do the benzomatic alumiweld MAPP gas rod stuff or even better like a aluminum hobart 4043 arc welder rod... or like ideally someday... the TIG cast aluminum weld repair. On another note, reminded me too about a video I found recently detailing very well the conversion of a vertical shaft to horizontal shaft OHV engine by Dtaylo titled "How to convert a OHV vertical shaft engine to run horizontally for Go Kart, Drift trike or mini bike" Awesome rebuild!
4:37 I've heard the ally rockers are better than the stamped steel ones and thought I've heard the racers prefer those. Only thing is I've never weighed them, I'd go for the lighter ones. I do suspect the ally ones are a little more precise though.
I have some old red 18hp one of these with electric start. I bought it used knowing it didn’t run but it ended up also having a broken con rod (lol) The thing used to turn over freely with compression… I’m wondering though if parts are still readily available? How would I even id what variant I have?
What would cause a vtwin to run on one cylinder? Mine has spark but at low rpm only one cylinder fires.. i know they both have spark. I have a carb issue right now and my friend thinks it could be a head gasket
Redneckcomputergeek, So you just kept honing that cylinder out until the low spot was gone? And used the 18hp piston? Or another piston? I got cheated buying an old DR wood chipper with an 18 hp vanguard that had damage to the cylinders from water leaking in to the carb and cylinders and having one cylinder rust where the rings sat causing erosion of the cylinder walls. The guy had it running when I picked it up, but I realized the problem the next day when I found water contaminating the new oil from the oil change I had just done. It had pooled up in the breather housing. I bore scoped it then and saw the damage. 😶 Anyway, I have a 23hp duromax waiting to replace it, but was going to keep running the old one till it blew up or just failed to run. But recently I've been wondering about resleeving, etc. and saving the engine. So any info you have would be appreciated. It would be nice if I could get oversized pistons and hone it like you did.
Same pitons and rings as came out of it. Running a very thick 20-50 oil to get it to reseat the rings after. Its not a perfect fix but depending on skill and tools on hand less then $100 to give it a shot and see if you get more time out of it.
@@redneckcomputergeek thanks, I doubt I'd be any better off honing/boring it out with same pistons as things are. It's running "fine" as far as I can tell, at least from the perspective of running the chipper. I expect I'm getting blow-by with fuel contamination, carbon, etc. Can't be any worse, I think, than having an oversize bore and a sloppy piston. I'll have to check into getting oversize pistons... Interesting video, will be interested to see what kind of life you get. Also, protect your ears!
That's called how NOT to repair a engine OMG scary. Especially when the flywheel comes blowing apart or a rod goes through the block. These were never intended for anything above 4K max! Anything beyond that point, you are playing Russian roulette with your face or body! 😂😅
After going on a used engine hunting odyssey, I've come to the conclusion that horizontal shaft V-twins are horrendously marked up for no other reason than 'just because'. You can get the same vertical shaft engine of any variant of another for 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of a horizontal shaft. Just on Monday, I came across a guy that wanted $500 for TWO Vanguards, but they were both verticals; one was definitely a parts status, but the other was primo. I was tempted to fabricate a dry sump oil system for them but ended up going the 18hp Duromax route to repower a '77 214. Doing an engine plate seemed a lot easier to deal with for a winter project that will be taking place outside for the most part because too slender of a door to get the tractor inside.
Saved my 49 from a dumpster at work, we were stripping old scrap down in back.
I tore it down to just the case and pitched it all.
Next day I got the bright idea to build a 49 to swap in place of the 40.
That 49 had under 100hrs on it and they had governor issues on generator applications.
It rained all night and the cylinders had a nice surface rust coating.
Slapped some oil on it ,brought it to the shop that night and cleaned em up enough so it didn't get worse.
Hot tip , I saved about an ounce per cylinder by using the early 40 rods in a "late" 49 block.
I used my 40 crank, as the 49 crank was tapered.
So , early 40 rods and wrist pins in a 49 will save you almost 30 grams per hole.
She sure does rev up nice now.
Edit: 40/44/49 is an Intek, not a Vanguard 😁
And 40/44/49 all have the same stroke, it's the piston diameter that gives the size difference.
Thank God for people like you, Your awesome !
Great video! John has inherited your creativity.
That sounds like a strong motor and John's creation it does look like a dinosaur are we ready to go racing
22:30 when we used vannies in powr-gard standby generators, they routed the ignition kill thru the oil pressure switch.
Haha every time after an oil change you'd crank them a good 6-10 seconds before they'd build up enough pressure to allow spark.
There is a tool called a ridge reamer for cleaning up the top of cylinders. Great video. always enjoy your content.
Just had to do the same thing to a 16 horsepower Onan on a Lincwelder 225. I used a wooden stick to get most of the rust out after I added marvel Mystery oil.
Make sure to use some oil when honing cylinders. A little motor oil, wd40, etc. My favorite is transmission fluid, since it’s a detergent it cleans really well.
I can't believe that rusted side has enough compression to run. I'm tinkering with a 16hp with a 23 hp cam. Got the block back together, went up a size in the jet and thinking about a 12v fan on top instead of the flywheel fan. I'll probably have to rig up an automotive style alternator but we'll see.
The tool you need is a cylinder ridge reamer, cleans up the edge when disassembling a worn engine.
Thank you. Will look into one for future engine builds
Another great video, another notch on the belt! Knowledge abound..That's one heckuva engine there! Blessings and respect!
Hang in there young John mr. camera man / puppeteer
Surprised I haven't seen you either do the benzomatic alumiweld MAPP gas rod stuff or even better like a aluminum hobart 4043 arc welder rod... or like ideally someday... the TIG cast aluminum weld repair. On another note, reminded me too about a video I found recently detailing very well the conversion of a vertical shaft to horizontal shaft OHV engine by Dtaylo titled "How to convert a OHV vertical shaft engine to run horizontally for Go Kart, Drift trike or mini bike" Awesome rebuild!
Great job on your puppet best use I've seen of sandwich carrier are best two all of you peace
Hello from Detroit Michigan brother thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise and for what you do and GOD-BLESS
brother, thank you for the videos :) Do you have ear protection ? Save your hearing for conversations with your grand kids :)
4:37 I've heard the ally rockers are better than the stamped steel ones and thought I've heard the racers prefer those.
Only thing is I've never weighed them, I'd go for the lighter ones.
I do suspect the ally ones are a little more precise though.
Keep em coming have a 18hp vanguard on my club car ds
Haha that’s the spirit lol at the beginning good luck with the motor
THE KING OF EGINE🏆🏆🏆
Use paddle wheel to remove enough rust to get piston out
It's a ridge reamer it just cuts the top of the cylinder where the piston stops at
I'm amazed that it ran :)
Man..👍 That puppet is cold👍😁🐕
With all these v twins you got? Is there any possibility you can do an engine swap in a Geo tracker or something?
I have some old red 18hp one of these with electric start. I bought it used knowing it didn’t run but it ended up also having a broken con rod (lol)
The thing used to turn over freely with compression… I’m wondering though if parts are still readily available? How would I even id what variant I have?
Also, how safe is to really just bypass the Gov without modifying anything?
that motor is going to be a unit!!!
Buenos días ablo español necesito saber la causa, porque tira aceite por la parte de arriba del carburador
What would cause a vtwin to run on one cylinder? Mine has spark but at low rpm only one cylinder fires.. i know they both have spark. I have a carb issue right now and my friend thinks it could be a head gasket
It’s going to run again
Wow spectacular job Brother 👏
Is that the same flywheel you use?
Sir, I'm looking for Briggs & Stratton Vanguard V-Twin 18 HP, Petrol Engine.
Audio was fine when I listened And watch
That's a very video. The only thing, might be concerned about, is the rust in the cylinders. It might need over
sized pistons.
Got news for ya. Aluminum is metal too
Great content
What size of bore?
Because i want to buy a pistong ring of that engine?
That is 16 hp right?
I restarted the video there is audio now
Your carb gasket link has either changed to something else or u posted wrong link on accident.
Fixed. Thank you for letting me know. During all the Holiday sales junk Amazon can get a bit unstable about links.
Now I have audio. Close and refresh
YT had a review error should be fixed now
Redneckcomputergeek,
So you just kept honing that cylinder out until the low spot was gone? And used the 18hp piston? Or another piston?
I got cheated buying an old DR wood chipper with an 18 hp vanguard that had damage to the cylinders from water leaking in to the carb and cylinders and having one cylinder rust where the rings sat causing erosion of the cylinder walls. The guy had it running when I picked it up, but I realized the problem the next day when I found water contaminating the new oil from the oil change I had just done. It had pooled up in the breather housing. I bore scoped it then and saw the damage. 😶
Anyway, I have a 23hp duromax waiting to replace it, but was going to keep running the old one till it blew up or just failed to run.
But recently I've been wondering about resleeving, etc. and saving the engine. So any info you have would be appreciated. It would be nice if I could get oversized pistons and hone it like you did.
Same pitons and rings as came out of it. Running a very thick 20-50 oil to get it to reseat the rings after. Its not a perfect fix but depending on skill and tools on hand less then $100 to give it a shot and see if you get more time out of it.
@@redneckcomputergeek thanks, I doubt I'd be any better off honing/boring it out with same pistons as things are. It's running "fine" as far as I can tell, at least from the perspective of running the chipper. I expect I'm getting blow-by with fuel contamination, carbon, etc.
Can't be any worse, I think, than having an oversize bore and a sloppy piston.
I'll have to check into getting oversize pistons...
Interesting video, will be interested to see what kind of life you get.
Also, protect your ears!
Don’t you have a ridge reamer
What size is your parts cleaner? I've been looking at them and am trying to decide on how many litres I need.
I put a link in the video description incase others want the info also.
Thank you so much
Domde. Emcuentro. Los. Rrepuestos. Estoy em peru
Sound check no sound on your side 🥺
YT had a review error should be fixed now
@@redneckcomputergeek okay thanks for letting us know about that matter young man 👍😎
I have no audio. Is it just me
YT had a review error should be fixed now
Get some ear pro please.
No audio
YT had a review error should be fixed now
There is no sound
YT had a review error should be fixed now
No sound
YT had a review error should be fixed now
That's called how NOT to repair a engine OMG scary. Especially when the flywheel comes blowing apart or a rod goes through the block. These were never intended for anything above 4K max! Anything beyond that point, you are playing Russian roulette with your face or body! 😂😅