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Fiting Joists & Steels | Extension #6
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- Опубліковано 2 бер 2018
- In Part 6 of The Extension series, which follows the build of a side and rear extension on a semi-detached property, we see the joists and steels slotted into position in preparation for the removal of a load bearing wall at the back of the house.
The wall is being knocked out to extend the existing kitchen and create a kitchen/diner on the ground floor and an additional bedroom on the first floor.
This episode includes:
- Cutting joists to fit the steel beam
- Spacing the joists out with noggings and the challenges associated installing joists and steels.
- Using Strongboys to support the outer and inner skin at the same time
- Trimming the existing floor joists so they can sit in the web of the steel beam
- Cutting out the brickwork
- Lining up the holes of the two steel beams
- Bolting timber on to the steel beam for the jiffy hangers
- Expansion joints
- Insulation
- Using jiffy haners/joist hangers
This episode features products from: Evolution; Snickers Workwear; Milwaukee; Fein; Bosch; Arbotech; Stabila; Ecotherm; Teco and Rhino Scaffolding.
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Love watching this I retired at 56years old was a plumber once now I just like to watch. Thanks.
Builders with knowledge and attention to detail.. Your detailed videos are great for someone like me with an interest in construction & DIY but who isn't a professional tradesman.
It amazes me that non builders would dare to do a project such as this,the knowledge needed is immense.
I am guilty of that. I would have a go at anything. The important thing is to watch as many videos as possible and read up as well. Mark, for example, was not happy with the whole way we went about this and he said he would have tackled it in a completely different way.
The only other way Mark, would be to the pub!
Thank you Roger, i am 50 and i have been involved in plastic windows, conservatories, orangeries and now i am with a company who do single, double storey extensions, and all the interior kitchens .
, bathrooms, decorating, rendering etc they employ all their staff so it works well, i am in Knowsley Liverpool. I just wanted to say your channel is helping me mightily, i want to understand planning, drains, building regulations, roofing, everything to help me give customers confidence and to help me sell, ps that is what i am a salesman. Great programme thanks Lee
Recently found your videos Roger as im a DIYer who frequently turns to UA-cam! It's awesome how down to earth you are and take the time to explain things. Many professional builders I have met seem to dislike explaining things, almost like it's their special super power not to be shared!
I also notice you are not afraid to acknowledge that sometimes people show different opinions (ie, one of your videos where you mention plasterers disagreeing) which is an admirable trait!
Andy
You can understand why builders like to keep their information close to their chests but nobody can stop information being shared and in the end a lot of people will still hire a professional but they will have enough to take an interest in the job and maybe spot where things can go wrong.
Thanks a lot, I am an architect and enjoy watching your channel
I hope you watch tonight's video, there are some comments about architects.
Your videos are absotly great and i learned alot, Please look forward to upload more videos. Have a great one .
We have over 800 videos on the channel so hopefully you will watch a few more.
The production quality on these videos is great, as is the content.
Very enjoyable, great voiceover!! Informative and comedic
I don't think you could ever pay me enough to be a builder in the UK. I've done reno's on buildings in the US and in Aus, but the detail and trades needed in a UK build are just crazy, not to mention the weather! Great that you include the goofs, dirty level and whoops we're all on the wrong side of this beam! Come on if your really in the trade, we've all done it, so might as well have a laugh about it.
Brilliant Roger great helpful video 👏👏👏
Thanks for the great video. You rightly point out that dwangs or noggins need to be full depth in order to stop the floor joists twisting. Especially here at the bearing on the steel these need to be full depth if not on joist hangers. The joists spanning tables from Trada provide further details.
the old mend and blend....nice job sir. you seem to be a good guy to work for.
Just so you know Rog they are PODGERS NOT BODGERS Awesome vids bud keep them up.
Your videos are helping me a lot with my uni course keep up the hard work🙏🏼
Happy to hear that!
Great vid as normal. I miss those days of putting joists into walls. In Suffolk its been against building regs since about 2003. We can only use masonry hangers or fixed wall plate. The only time we can do it is in special circumstances like a curved wall with lots of silicone after its bricked in
Lee Burwood
Hi Lee
The drawing showed masonry hangers but, where possible I would rather build them in because they are less bouncy. We will have to take a chance on the building inspector being happy. We have let the mortar and timber shrink for a while so it is now time to gun some Blower Proof or similar in around all those joists. You can get plastic pockets to house them in. We have 90mm of Ecotherm behind the joists so they shouldn't get damp.
building the exact same thing... brilliant video and tips
Nice shear load explanation regarding how seemingly small diameter nails are OK to hold the metal joist wall hangers in place (designed such that no bending moment acts on nails, just shear)!
Yes, you are right
Nice size extension, will be a big house when finished
Keep them coming Roger.
Thanks Roger great video.
Love the annotation!
Pedantic I know but there is a max gap between end of joist and back of hanger,its 6mm.
Kick ass. Looks great. Keep the bids coming. Lates
My nuts were sweating while watching your video. Phew! Great work lads!
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!
Pro workmanship
Nicely done... like the music as well
looking forward to see the rest off this project enjoyed the video.
Great video
reminds me when i was an apprentice helping to erect a steel roof structure onto wooden joists and struts connected to the old Victorian factory brick exterior wall to add a third floor ( roof floor ) to flat conversions
I've always wondered about the joist hangers too roger! Mark wasn't a happy bunny. U need to take him for a pint to let off some steam.
So clearly explained. Great channel 👍
Some great tips again thanks
very educative, thank you
solid build👌👌
9:40 nail thickness and strength is way more important than length indeed
Is it not a Podger spanner rather than Bodger?
Yes it is, you are right and my brain is getting old.
Very informative video, thank you, could you please answer. If I am replacing an old timber lintel for an RSJ do I need planning. Thanks again, look forward to your reply.
Great video, very informative. Nice hammer 😁
This is phenomenal work so impressed
Fantastic, got a T steel to fit here on a corner wall.
Send us some pictures or video. We love seeing other projects
people moan why extensions cost so much money to build when its just a few bricks blocks and timber not realising in their ignorance the amount of planning problem solving and intuition that goes into making it all come together, another example of easier said than done.
girlsdrinkfeck
Never a truer word said!
Quite right, this video is exceptional as it shows you just how skilled, knowledgable and conscientious you have to be as a building professional. This is a technical project and I take my hat off to the fellas that pulled it off. Classy job.
I agree, but none of them got on helmets
R-77 £75k
your amazing, new subscriber
top notch video i like all the information
Was it easy drilling holes in the steel? What drill bits/method do you use.
Great vid. Exelent work thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Knocking them nails in those hangers Roger, you should get Milwaukee to give you the M12 palm nailer to have a go with, where you not got room to swing your hammer they are great.
I have a Bostich palm nailer and Milwaukee sent one down recentely
Mark looks like a gears of war character.
Great infomation! 👍
Great video Roger ,I'm a little worried ,my daughters house the kitchen living room extension been there late 90s ,where the back door window frame patio door it looks like a lintel not rsj is this safe .thanks.
Mark your tremendous at this game m8
Have a look at this Full Renovation video: ua-cam.com/video/i7SQuXlgWiY/v-deo.html
Love the informative video... I'm having a beam put in for my extension and from day dot I told the structural engineer and builder that I want the joining room ceiling to be flush. Not being told the beam is to deep and cannot be flush as it hits the floor upstairs. Do I have any options?
Drop ceiling height a little bit
Hi, please can you link me up with a company that build steels I operate one of the machine in Dubai. I need a job please reach me on my email fredbayus@gmail.com or whatsapp me +2348028974627
I actually had a carpenter show up with a 4oz hammer while building a addition I still have it as a memento.
Brilliant as ever :)
trinitysmate
Thanks, we like you
Great videos.
How come those steels run inside the brickwork of the original house like that? (The area that the acro’s are propping up)
Is it just easier than pocketing all the joists into the brickwork separately? Or is it serving another purpose as well?
Thanks 👍
My thoughts to? Is this a must or what is it's full purpose?
Thanks for the vids as always Roger but why not just fit full depth blocking to help stiffen the joist web? If memory serves any span over 2300 needs them and they’d only take slightly longer than the noggins. If you want space for services then do herring bone or even the metal off the shelf herring bone ties.
Big fan anyway and thanks for taking the time to set up, film, and edit. As a chippy and builder you’d think I’d see enough at work.
Ah! Steven, you stole my thunder. I have now fitted the mid-span full-depth blocking and one more idea that helps take the whip out. I am told that herringbones beat blocking because blocking shrinks and herringbone tightens.
Skill Builder Sounds about right. Hard to get the time for herring bone nowadays but so much better. Allows air flow and leaves plenty of room for running services.
Brilliant bud
Am so sad am this age, if i was 20 again i would track this man down and work for him for free, i admire his enthusiasm and joy for his profession he has, you would have to be a complete idiot not to listen and take in what he says, im afraid i was a arse hxxe when younger thought i knew it all, please dont underestimate power of knowledge, ps are you jimmy bullards love child
tigertruckerman lol
Good news.. I ve found the damp problem
Bad news.. you need to knock the house down!
good job
Little toffee hammer for the twist nails 😉😂😂
10:00 Even so, I still can't believe how these hangers manage to comfortably resist downward shearing either.
Nice video! That 'twist' in the joists is called lateral torsional buckling. If the joists have been designed to have have noggins, they should be full height noggins at 1/3 spacing so the floor/roof acts as one system, not individual members.
Very interesting to see your temp works there though! What are those brackets coming out the brickwork bolted to the scaffold pole? never seen them before. Cheers :)
“Ball-ache” Classic Trade speak
Is this your daughters place? It looks it from her videos.
yes
@@SkillBuilder
Awesome. Good job by yourself and the lads. Gave me a lot of inspiration for my double storey extension.
Stabila best you can get
a professional i could trust,,,i think there is less and less of them
fewer
What is the full extent of the steel off the corner of the existing build into the new extension? Is it a must for this type of wrap around extension?
Yes you need to hold up the corner of the building to this 'T' steel arrangement is common.
Is the steel beam a concealed beam for the finished look? Do you have pictures/videos of the finished look of the ceiling where the ceiling opens up? Also in the finished look, were there nibs pertruding from the inner walls to support the steel beams?
No nothing to see it is all hidden.
Whats the thickness of the beam?
Great video. You need a new hammer though. LOL
You would have found it easier if the connecting bolts didn’t have the nuts welding on.
Could you not have those joists end scribed into the steel beam rather than using the joist hangers?
we do that sometimes, it all depends in what order the construction is done. The walls went up before the knock through
When you hear people chatting shit about Robots building houses 3D printing etc.....just look at how much know-how you need to do this kind of thing...
overhand bricklaying should not be allowed but above head hight ???
What size of that steel beam please?
Great work Rodger...I like your hard hat..what make is it? and where did you get it?
Hi, just a quick question. You mention towards the end that you were considering notching and slotting the joist directly into the steel beam but you didnt as you only had an inch of flange.
If you were to rest joist directly on a steel beams flange, how much of the joist needs to rest on it?
Thanks in advance
I would like a 2 inch bearing but would settle for 40mm with solid blocking in between each joist to eliminate and sideways movement.
@@SkillBuilder thank you, Much appreciated!
Got a similar project, do the joists that sit in the internal web not have joist hangers
Would appreciate your help
You don't need a joist hanger if they sit in the web but you need to bolt some timber noggins in between each joist so you can fix them in place.
Lovely job hour doing there. why captive nuts at the steel intersection as opposed to a clearance hole, nut and washers? Would make fitting a damn sight easier.
It would but the steel could move on the bolts and that would cause the masonry above to crack
Nice part👍, what hammer you using, I need replace my 😀
Why did you stand the joists on wood? Is this a requirement or to make up her?
Just a packer
Blimin Eck - You got a bit excited with that Music didn't you? .........
What size is that beam, thank
Roger,I am being overly picky here. How fiddly is to insert PIR insulation into the cavity when the wall ties are in the way? Especially when you need a snug fit for T & G. To me, there is very small wiggle space to insert the insulation when the walls are already erected? Great job as always, btw!
So how did you get around using smaller joists? They look like they’re sat on something built int block work?
They are one inch shallower because the floor build up has underfloor heating so they will end up as 9inch.
Skill Builder thanks
Is it true, that brick,is stronger,than blocks for load bearing, ?
You can check out the strength of all bricks and blocks. The blocks used here are 3.5 Nm. That is strong enough for houses.
Good video , only question I have is how come you used engineers for the steel an not have a steel post underneath to hold the steel ?
sometimes you use a steel post and sometimes not. I like a post but an engineering brick pier is how they always used to do it. Look at the all the old railway bridges built to take a steam train. They all use steel on engineering brick. The weight those steels are holding up is hardly anything in the great scheme of things
Skill Builder yeah when I was younger we always built brick piers , lot of inspectors we use know like a post , brick pier with pad just as strong tho
sorry (from UK) does a building inspector check that joists and beams are installed correctly?
yes they should check everything that is structural. It is all about making sure the building is safe.
@@SkillBuilder cheers..
he he, we get very lonely .... here .. in the studio on our own
god i wish you had built my extension
What are the best bricks for load bearing purposes,?
Engineering bricks are the best for any load bearing. They are used on railway viaducts.
👍👍
Good stuff, now give the apprentice his hammer back!! A proper hammer should sink those nails in two - three hits max!! Lol 🔨
Nathan Brown
Yeah, I picked it up and tapped it in for the picture and my cameraman said "Why don't you use a grownups hammer". I said "No I'll use this and see the comments". Truth is I have a Paslode PPN but couldn't be bothered to get it out and find the gas and nails.
Nathan Brown it’s not the speed it’s the accuracy
Kind of nice of your wife to let you use her picture hanging hammer there at the end)
That is a sexist remark, my wife has a much bigger hammer than that. The hammer you see there belongs to my 5 year old grandson and he wants it back, he has stuff to do and it ain't putting in picture hooks, it is cracking toffee
Skill Builder hahahahaha too funny 😂
Haha skill builder. Love your typical building site quick witted banter
Nice safety helmets!...
Can you tell me the purpose of 2 steels side by side please?
It is often done to reduce the weight. One steel is heavy and you need a large plate above it to support the cavity wall so 2 steels gives you the wider support.
Skill Builder thanks, I need a steel to go on at my extension, it’s 9m long, 300x300mm and 2.1 tonne :(
I can have lighter steel if I have it in 2 parts with a post in the center but we want it open plan, I thought what you did may be a way round it but at the end of the day it’s down to the structural engineer I guess lol
Good channel by the way
That's a podger ya bodger
You are right. I got it wrong but you don't win a prize because loads of people got there before you.
Should you not have a compressible filler to the expansion joints? Also, are expansion joints required to the internal skin as the NHBC guidance doesn't require them I think?
Yes you can buy a foam strip to put in there but we just foamed it up with gun foam. There is a render bead over it. There is no movement joint on the internal skin.
Thank you. Very quick response and love your videos, I am finding them very useful for my self build :)