Thanks John. We are happy to pick up new viewers but wish it didn't happen in such bad circumstances. Let's hope it all clears soon. The world can't afford to carry on like this for much longer.
Without this video (and the whole series) I would never had realised the great skill and ingenuity that builders. In all my years of working in an office, I never met anyone who had mastered their profession as fully as Roger knows his.
Hi I’ve been watching your videos and they are fantastic. The way you present them is 👍 great, thank you very much for giving us DIY people the information and confidence needed, cheers pal 👍👍
well done on another really helpful vid. im doing all the groundwork and prep/foundations by myself with a shovel (no diggers will be harmed in the digging of these foundations) as I need a to save a ton of money to complete my build your videos are the best well done and thanks again!
How right you are you should never stop learning never stop watching picking up little bits here and there and deciding if you can use it the person who knows everything knows nothing always leave your mind open to new ideas.
Very useful, as I intend to mark out the site for my self build project. Just one observation. Did the excavator driver swing the digger into the neighbours wall as it looks bent!
When Concreting the footing it’s better to be a tiny bit low than bang on right. So should have told them to stop the pump a little earlier. As a builder I come across this problem so often. Also if they say it flows and won’t move the wagon/ pump ask them to wet the mix down so it’s easier to poker/ vibrate or pull with a rake/shovel when you do need to pull it further down/ around the trench
Don't agree with his estimate either that an extra quarter cube was poured in the time the pump stopped. 1 quarter is over half a tonne. I've done countless pours where I've had to think on my feet(too much/too little)but always got over it especially if there's jumps.
Hia Rodger your vidioes are great and the ones with Robin your both very professional and both seem top lads be joy to work with for me Easier way of doing it put 2 by two in footings after pouriing 3 in each corner above height of finish floor then when come back to set out set your batterns on your profiles to top of concrete with Lazer then you can measure down and get block work bang on for slab also if using trench blocks usually allow ten mil more on gauge because easy to gain but nightmare to loose ☺️
Yeh .... I started at #10 and worked backwards ..... suitably Impressed, I have to say. Spent my working life on mainly sites, (perhaps 20% extensions), nice job all the way through :-)
I am cursed with that look-a-like but I certainly wouldn't treat people the way he does. If he worked on a building site rather than in a kitchen he would be taught some manners very quickly.
Great vidio Roger as for architects not putting measurements and then saying do not scale is pain happens all the time makes you wonder how we get anything done.
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Forrest Darren Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
This has been my favorite how to video for additions. Because 1:51 into it the guy is already ticked. I like the reasonable expectations he’s delivering 🤷🏼♀️😂
Hi there, Please advise what happens if the existing house wall that you’re measuring your string line from isn’t straight? Eg the front of the house is 218cm & the back is 219cm. How do you ensure your string line is straight to make a square extension
Hi bit of a weird questioned..... What paint do you use to paint your windows....as you want to privatise your home whilst building inside...... Thanks.....
Great Video. I'm getting to the point now where I'm not confident I can find a builder to build my extension for the money that my architect guesstimated my build to come in it. I'm honestly now considering project managing the build myself and do a lot of the work myself and maybe employ a builder and joiner to help me as and when required. Can I just ask, Obviously you have to dig your founds down to the required depth however is there a guideline for when the foundations end and you start your brickwork? How many courses would you typically look to lay to bring it up with your existing floor level of your current house?
Depends on what sort of floor your putting in ie block and beam as you’ll want air flow that will circulate out of the plastic air brick ...Also you’ll need pipe work to run so you’ll need some bricks from foundation to damp level.
i wouldn't project manage it yourself as it is probably one of the most important aspects of having a project run smoothly and not being left with a substandard build; plus it probably doesn't save you that much in the end. if i were you i would focus on trying to put together as detailed specification and drawings as possible to limit the amount of problems during the build. because if you specify everything down to the last detail then it means it can be priced very accurately and there is less chance of having unforeseen costs during the build.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk ua-cam.com/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/v-deo.html We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
I dug about 2 feet under the house footings (one corner of the house) to pour 40cm of deep concrete than put a concrete block 30cmx30cm of diameter to jack up the house levelling but at this depth clay is softer than where the original footing is. If l pour concrete than level it would it be ok or what is your advice? I need help. Thank you
Put your crosspiece on your profile leval with the dpc and your line will somewhere near right,then check the last coarse of brickwork with the dumpy leval
Hi.roger I liked ur videos quite interesting & helpful especially for those who want to learn more about extensions.& to reduce costs. You know all the prices. I am planning for an extension at the side of my flat. It’s four in a block cottage flat but through land registry I know this part of land belongs to me only .neighbour downstairs have own access to their main door. My question would I get permission for a 2 storey extension. How much it cost for permission? The extension I m thinking about 32 square metres. I asked couple of Builders quote me roughly £2000 to 2500 m2 double storey extension.roughly about £60,000 job. My budget is £40,000 . How can I reduce cost ? Which material to use or who to use to reduce labour cost & materials? Any suggestions will be appropriated ? I m in Glasgow,Scotland. Thanks
You are not wrong. I thought of doing that but I also thought that setting out both skins was worth the extra bit of string if only to reinforce the point. I am sure people will do it your way and maybe so would I.
Hi I love your videos and am thinking of building something similar but am a complete amateur, I just watched another video and another guy got absolutely slated for not putting rebar in the deep foundation he dug, am i blind or did you not do this? Also I do not have the option to do this with someone pumping concrete due to access, it looks amazingly quick but would it take for ever with a small mixer and manual labour?
I the structural engineer asks for rebar then you need it but these are big foundations onto a firm base. The existing house has stood on less for 60 years with no rebar. People tend to over-engineer these days to avoid litigation and in clay ground I would be looking for a different approach but this is sand.
Although concrete is strong in itself, there is always opportunity for strengthening, and steel fibre-reinforced concrete is one the popular choices for people who require a little extra resilience from their mix. But why is reinforced concrete used and what makes it such a useful product? We’re going to detail the benefits of this particular concrete, so you can find out if it’s right for you. Properties The addition of steel fibres to mortar delivers a drastic improvement to the strength of the mixture. Before reinforcement, the flexural strength of the concrete stands at around 25%. After steel fibres are added, this flexural strength is increased to 100%, depending on how many fibres have been incorporated into the mix. Saving time and money Strengthened concrete offers a number of benefits aside from the obvious increased strength, particularly in the area efficiency. These include: Wider joint spacing - joint forming costs reduced, less need for joint maintenance Reduced slab thickness - money saved on concrete and placement Simplified construction - joints are simpler, steel fabric positioning errors eliminated Construction process is sped up Technical benefits The risk of cracking is significantly reduced Reduced spalling at joint edges Stronger joints Greater impact resistance Greater fatigue endurance Reduced maintenance costs Longer useful life The fibres help improve resistance against tensile cracking, which is a problem that can befall concrete over time. In non-reinforced concrete, the concrete ‘beams’ can only withstand so much stress from bending before they break apart. By adding steel fibres to these beams, the resistance is significantly strengthened, allowing them to withstand much more greater loads before the first crack appears. Steel fibres are distributed randomly throughout the mix, too, so the increased strength is felt throughout the concrete, rather than concentrated in a specific area. Thanks to this, any micro cracks or potential cracks are neutralised before they can cause serious issues. Steel-reinforced concrete is an extremely effective product for heavy duty usage, where heavy loads are expected. From warehouses and factories to aircraft hangars and runways, the strength of this concrete means it can withstand far more than the average concrete mix.
Hi Roger I’m building a extension , but the costumer is asking me for warranty. How does it work? Do I give a warranty? Or do I buy the warranty to insurance company and give to them ? Looking forward to her from you
The warranty is implied under normal supply of goods and services. I understand he need to be protected but it rings alarm bells. The critical bits are inspected by Building Control and the rest of it is just the normal stuff. My concern is that she is lining up to hold payment. Did she ask for the warranty when she accepted your quote?
@@SkillBuilder I just gave the quote, it is accepted, I haven’t started work yet. But she is asking for warranty. I have said I can’t give warranty for foundation or brick wall, I’m building through building approval, and building inspector advise. How about this NHBC , do I have to be registered there to build extensions ? Thank you for replying 😊
Ste Smith All depends how big , what the ground report is , I.e the depth you have to dig out and also if done in the winter time , it will take slightly longer.
Yes you are right we should have done this when we did the concrete, but on a job like this you can measure out from the existing building and bang in a few steel pegs to give you the line. The foundation is twice as wide as the wall so if it runs off slightly it isn't the end of the world but I take your point. On a virgin site you would peg out properly.
@@SkillBuilder Wondered exactly this, as usual Roger's experience comes through. Never seen such a clear explanation of these setting out fundamentals. Thank you!
Also, you measured footings good, just lay the first brick/block and measure that to the wall and pull the lines off that, rather than mess about with profiles/levelling down blahblah
Does anyone know the best way to become a well rounded builder if you were starting out from fresh. I want to get involved with any many trades as possible. Any advice anyone?
My advice would be to specialise in something first to get your foot in the door and then try out other trades. I started out as a brickie and then taught myself plastering and cutting in roofs afterwards from working with others. It means you'll be known for being particularly good at one thing which I believe is always beneficial when getting work.
Why not rake back excess concrete and stick with original level? Surely there wasn't that much over to do this. Everybody has topped unlevel founds before but surely that could have been avoided.
To be fair, most people don't want to pay for a Construction Issue, they think Building Control drawings are job done. Forget As Built drawings as well they client is not interested.
hi I could listen to roger all day , and the bricklayer Mark; the way he lays his mortar bed is amazing!
Thanks. Nice straightforward and clear introduction.
Being off work I have just discovered these videos and I`ve found them so absorbing, and so well presented as other people have commented.
Thanks John. We are happy to pick up new viewers but wish it didn't happen in such bad circumstances. Let's hope it all clears soon. The world can't afford to carry on like this for much longer.
What does my builder mean when he says I will build the extension up to chamber?
Such clear concise and practical advice, Brilliant. Thanks
Without this video (and the whole series) I would never had realised the great skill and ingenuity that builders.
In all my years of working in an office, I never met anyone who had mastered their profession as fully as Roger knows his.
Hi I’ve been watching your videos and they are fantastic. The way you present them is 👍 great, thank you very much for giving us DIY people the information and confidence needed, cheers pal 👍👍
well done on another really helpful vid.
im doing all the groundwork and prep/foundations by myself with a shovel
(no diggers will be harmed in the digging of these foundations) as I need a to save a ton of money to
complete my build your videos are the best well done and thanks again!
great down to earth teacher ,i could work with thank's for the confidence.
Take time setting out. Best advice ever
Nice video. It's great to see some British building!
Been doing this for years but still learning all the skills great job
How right you are you should never stop learning never stop watching picking up little bits here and there and deciding if you can use it the person who knows everything knows nothing always leave your mind open to new ideas.
Hi, brilliant as ever thank you for taking the time to do what you do.
Thank God for a construction video that does not use only feet and inches in its explanation
This guy is an inspiration. I like his passion and knowledge is second to none. Would love to shadow a man like this.
Top stuff, apprentice electrician, thanks for showing us the setting out mate, I’ll keep up with the extension
Thanks Tony
Thanks Roger. Excellent as always.
Ive also being i the building line
For years but it's true we learn all the time , Well done mate very well explained Thank you brill vid
Very good. Very well done work, with attention to all the details. Congratulations!
Very clear instruction,cheers Roger.
Love your honesty and down to earth approach
Really interested in the extension build!! Thanks Rodger great content
Very useful, as I intend to mark out the site for my self build project. Just one observation. Did the excavator driver swing the digger into the neighbours wall as it looks bent!
GREAT STUFF YOU ARE THE BEST...KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Hey Roger, I really enjoyed that.
I look forward to watching more
rob songer a compliment by the the bricklaying legend himself! He should feel very lucky 👍🏼
P
I do really enjoy your videos.
Great presentation, really good to see how its done for a living, rather than your do it yourselver trying to be a expert !
These videos are great 👍 just great. A god send.
Expert mode fully enabled.
Brilliant video! Can't wait to get into my garage build!
Excellent explanations. Subscribed
You really need to create playlists for the series videos.
Gonna try this with my own extension. Thanks.
Brilliant video
When you said “2mm to you” how did you know your measuring stick was perpendicular to the existing wall you were measuring off?
When Concreting the footing it’s better to be a tiny bit low than bang on right. So should have told them to stop the pump a little earlier. As a builder I come across this problem so often.
Also if they say it flows and won’t move the wagon/ pump ask them to wet the mix down so it’s easier to poker/ vibrate or pull with a rake/shovel when you do need to pull it further down/ around the trench
When low it allows for the bricklayers to make up the height on their bed and get it bang on right on their first course
NO WAY IS ROGER A BUILDER !!!!!!!
Don't agree with his estimate either that an extra quarter cube was poured in the time the pump stopped. 1 quarter is over half a tonne. I've done countless pours where I've had to think on my feet(too much/too little)but always got over it especially if there's jumps.
I allways peg 470mm from bottam of splash courses gives 20mm buffer on trench blocks
Another great video Roger. Proper job.
start of spot on and it will turn out good enough, start of good enough and end up crap, I tell all my apprentices this...
Bloody amazing video
Hia Rodger your vidioes are great and the ones with Robin your both very professional and both seem top lads be joy to work with for me Easier way of doing it put 2 by two in footings after pouriing 3 in each corner above height of finish floor then when come back to set out set your batterns on your profiles to top of concrete with Lazer then you can measure down and get block work bang on for slab also if using trench blocks usually allow ten mil more on gauge because easy to gain but nightmare to loose ☺️
Good ideas Andrew. Thanks for your support
Yeh .... I started at #10 and worked backwards ..... suitably Impressed, I have to say. Spent my working life on mainly sites, (perhaps 20% extensions), nice job all the way through :-)
the line loop..old forgotten tip,,,brilliant
Great stuff Roger, love the project videos.
...quite like the review ones too :-)
Thank you Roger
excellent explanation
Wonderful video. Thanks.
You look like the builder equivalent of Gordon Ramsey with out the tantrums and swearing (on camera at least) 👍
I am cursed with that look-a-like but I certainly wouldn't treat people the way he does. If he worked on a building site rather than in a kitchen he would be taught some manners very quickly.
In my next life, I want to be his apprentice. Talk about a wealth of knowledge and humor. 🤣
2 or 3mm co.e back to the real world man we miss u
Do they put any steel in foundations
Great vidio Roger as for architects not putting measurements and then saying do not scale is pain happens all the time makes you wonder how we get anything done.
Ace keep up the good work
Very excited by this series!!!
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Kasen Tony Instablaster ;)
@Forrest Darren Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Forrest Darren It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out !
@Kasen Tony Happy to help xD
really nice introduction
This has been my favorite how to video for additions. Because 1:51 into it the guy is already ticked. I like the reasonable expectations he’s delivering 🤷🏼♀️😂
Hi there,
Please advise what happens if the existing house wall that you’re measuring your string line from isn’t straight? Eg the front of the house is 218cm & the back is 219cm. How do you ensure your string line is straight to make a square extension
Excellent video, keep them coming!
Thanks
@@SkillBuilder Can you draw a plan for an extension? and if yes, what will your chargers be?
How is it that you seeem to be the only builder on youtube that actually knows how to set out properly with offsets and profile boards..??
How do you know where the top of the footing should come up to? What is a datum?
Excellent Roger. Nice and simple setting out. Is that impact the Milwaukee hydro pneumatic impact driver? Sounds good.
Zed Man and were the screws reisser dry wall
Zed Man q
Time spent in preparation saves time in rectification!!
Absolutely brilliant thank you x x
Fantastic stuff 👍🏻
Great tips! Cheers
Fantastic Videos, great work, Thanks ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi bit of a weird questioned..... What paint do you use to paint your windows....as you want to privatise your home whilst building inside......
Thanks.....
Hi, please advise the make of the screw fixer in your battern at 5:15 minutes of your video. Thanks and regards, JB.
Thank you very much for the video can I use block and beam for second floor
Yes you can! If you can lift the beams it is a good solution
Great Video. I'm getting to the point now where I'm not confident I can find a builder to build my extension for the money that my architect guesstimated my build to come in it. I'm honestly now considering project managing the build myself and do a lot of the work myself and maybe employ a builder and joiner to help me as and when required.
Can I just ask, Obviously you have to dig your founds down to the required depth however is there a guideline for when the foundations end and you start your brickwork? How many courses would you typically look to lay to bring it up with your existing floor level of your current house?
Depends on what sort of floor your putting in ie block and beam as you’ll want air flow that will circulate out of the plastic air brick ...Also you’ll need pipe work to run so you’ll need some bricks from foundation to damp level.
i wouldn't project manage it yourself as it is probably one of the most important aspects of having a project run smoothly and not being left with a substandard build; plus it probably doesn't save you that much in the end. if i were you i would focus on trying to put together as detailed specification and drawings as possible to limit the amount of problems during the build. because if you specify everything down to the last detail then it means it can be priced very accurately and there is less chance of having unforeseen costs during the build.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk
ua-cam.com/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/v-deo.html
We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
Legend, great video
Great video. Anyone catch the name of the architect?
I dug about 2 feet under the house footings (one corner of the house) to pour 40cm of deep concrete than put a concrete block 30cmx30cm of diameter to jack up the house levelling but at this depth clay is softer than where the original footing is. If l pour concrete than level it would it be ok or what is your advice? I need help. Thank you
Now this I could watch!!
Put your crosspiece on your profile leval with the dpc and your line will somewhere near right,then check the last coarse of brickwork with the dumpy leval
Hi.roger
I liked ur videos quite interesting & helpful especially for those who want to learn more about extensions.& to reduce costs. You know all the prices.
I am planning for an extension at the side of my flat. It’s four in a block cottage flat but through land registry I know this part of land belongs to me only .neighbour downstairs have own access to their main door.
My question would I get permission for a 2 storey extension. How much it cost for permission?
The extension I m thinking about 32 square metres.
I asked couple of Builders quote me roughly £2000 to 2500 m2 double storey extension.roughly about £60,000 job.
My budget is £40,000 .
How can I reduce cost ? Which material to use or who to use to reduce labour cost & materials?
Any suggestions will be appropriated ?
I m in Glasgow,Scotland.
Thanks
When the next instalment?? Great video!
We are editing it right now so hopefully a week or so. Thanks for your support
Good job but why The 2 lines surely
plumb down the outside line to footing and just measure the 300mm back off it.must be more accurate.
You are not wrong. I thought of doing that but I also thought that setting out both skins was worth the extra bit of string if only to reinforce the point. I am sure people will do it your way and maybe so would I.
was this done under Permitted Development Rights?
Thanks
Do you need to apply for planning again if you add in a cellar?
Looks pretty good to me boss
When digging foundations for a house do I allow for soil waste electricity etc to go inside or outside of walls thanks
Hi I love your videos and am thinking of building something similar but am a complete amateur, I just watched another video and another guy got absolutely slated for not putting rebar in the deep foundation he dug, am i blind or did you not do this? Also I do not have the option to do this with someone pumping concrete due to access, it looks amazingly quick but would it take for ever with a small mixer and manual labour?
I the structural engineer asks for rebar then you need it but these are big foundations onto a firm base. The existing house has stood on less for 60 years with no rebar. People tend to over-engineer these days to avoid litigation and in clay ground I would be looking for a different approach but this is sand.
Although concrete is strong in itself, there is always opportunity for strengthening, and steel fibre-reinforced concrete is one the popular choices for people who require a little extra resilience from their mix. But why is reinforced concrete used and what makes it such a useful product? We’re going to detail the benefits of this particular concrete, so you can find out if it’s right for you.
Properties
The addition of steel fibres to mortar delivers a drastic improvement to the strength of the mixture. Before reinforcement, the flexural strength of the concrete stands at around 25%. After steel fibres are added, this flexural strength is increased to 100%, depending on how many fibres have been incorporated into the mix.
Saving time and money
Strengthened concrete offers a number of benefits aside from the obvious increased strength, particularly in the area efficiency. These include:
Wider joint spacing - joint forming costs reduced, less need for joint maintenance
Reduced slab thickness - money saved on concrete and placement
Simplified construction - joints are simpler, steel fabric positioning errors eliminated
Construction process is sped up
Technical benefits
The risk of cracking is significantly reduced
Reduced spalling at joint edges
Stronger joints
Greater impact resistance
Greater fatigue endurance
Reduced maintenance costs
Longer useful life
The fibres help improve resistance against tensile cracking, which is a problem that can befall concrete over time. In non-reinforced concrete, the concrete ‘beams’ can only withstand so much stress from bending before they break apart. By adding steel fibres to these beams, the resistance is significantly strengthened, allowing them to withstand much more greater loads before the first crack appears.
Steel fibres are distributed randomly throughout the mix, too, so the increased strength is felt throughout the concrete, rather than concentrated in a specific area. Thanks to this, any micro cracks or potential cracks are neutralised before they can cause serious issues.
Steel-reinforced concrete is an extremely effective product for heavy duty usage, where heavy loads are expected. From warehouses and factories to aircraft hangars and runways, the strength of this concrete means it can withstand far more than the average concrete mix.
Hi Roger
I’m building a extension , but the costumer is asking me for warranty.
How does it work? Do I give a warranty?
Or do I buy the warranty to insurance company and give to them ?
Looking forward to her from you
The warranty is implied under normal supply of goods and services. I understand he need to be protected but it rings alarm bells. The critical bits are inspected by Building Control and the rest of it is just the normal stuff. My concern is that she is lining up to hold payment. Did she ask for the warranty when she accepted your quote?
@@SkillBuilder I just gave the quote, it is accepted, I haven’t started work yet. But she is asking for warranty.
I have said I can’t give warranty for foundation or brick wall, I’m building through building approval, and building inspector advise.
How about this NHBC , do I have to be registered there to build extensions ?
Thank you for replying 😊
On the ball Roger
4:54 what were you driving the screws with? i can see your impact driver but looks like it doesnt have a bit in it?!!
small bit, no bit holder
@@SkillBuilder - Ha thanks! Must try that myself.
Very nice! But it looks so much work and time! Thats why I'm thinking about a low energy prefab house! Any thoughts?
Kits are good for new build but extensions are different. I like work so it doesn't bother me
You still have to square the slab up for prefab. Just as much work.
Fuck that. High carbon footprint mansion
If you can say, how much did if cost adding a cellar to the extension?
Maybe £4,000
Good video.. good skills
Good
could you tell me roughly how long the average extension takes you to build?
Ste Smith
All depends how big , what the ground report is , I.e the depth you have to dig out and also if done in the winter time , it will take slightly longer.
I think you should have put your profiles up when you done the concrete so your walls would have the right bearing on the footings??
Yes you are right we should have done this when we did the concrete, but on a job like this you can measure out from the existing building and bang in a few steel pegs to give you the line. The foundation is twice as wide as the wall so if it runs off slightly it isn't the end of the world but I take your point. On a virgin site you would peg out properly.
@@SkillBuilder Wondered exactly this, as usual Roger's experience comes through. Never seen such a clear explanation of these setting out fundamentals. Thank you!
Good
Also, you measured footings good, just lay the first brick/block and measure that to the wall and pull the lines off that, rather than mess about with profiles/levelling down blahblah
making it sound easy :)
Does anyone know the best way to become a well rounded builder if you were starting out from fresh. I want to get involved with any many trades as possible. Any advice anyone?
My advice would be to specialise in something first to get your foot in the door and then try out other trades. I started out as a brickie and then taught myself plastering and cutting in roofs afterwards from working with others. It means you'll be known for being particularly good at one thing which I believe is always beneficial when getting work.
Why not rake back excess concrete and stick with original level? Surely there wasn't that much over to do this. Everybody has topped unlevel founds before but surely that could have been avoided.
Hello I wish you were a woodwork teacher in college
To be fair, most people don't want to pay for a Construction Issue, they think Building Control drawings are job done. Forget As Built drawings as well they client is not interested.
From the thumb nail I thought gordon ramsay took up building haha
Put a bit holder in the drill 👀