Although superglue feels like a does-all-jobs kind of solution (it's called 'super' for a reason!) It's actually the last glue I'd use for most modelling jobs. It's such a brittle bond and you have to be so careful when handling it. When bonding plastikard to plastikard, I'd recommend the kind of glue that comes in airfix kits. I use Revell Contacta. It'll bond better and gives you some time to reposition. Plus it won't glue your fingers together! Rockit card glue from Deluxe Materials actually bonds a wide variety of materials and is very strong too. That's what I'd use for plastic to wood. Also, scoring plastikard lightly with a blade and 'snapping' it from the main sheet can result in a cleaner and straighter edge. Great video as ever. Good luck with your next one 😊
I've mentioned it before, but the way you include the "failures" is a massive reassurance to those of us who like to get a bit over dramatic when something doesn't work. Keep up the good work Charlie.
Thank you Charlie. Thank you most of all for not being perfect. As someone once told me. 'Try very hard to learn from the mistakes of others. You haven't got time to make them all yourself'. Bless you Steve.
I think the tiles are interesting and the fact they are easy broken lends itself to interesting weathering potentials especially if your making disused and abandoned tracks, you could always glue the tiles to a strip of plasticard for additional support underneath when used for platform edging and that way everything would be neat an straight.
Thanks Charlie, Hopefully Woodland Seanics will have a product you can use. I still enjoy your videos. For smoothing Smoothing plaster in the dental laboratory are used a Scotch-Brite sponge. The local Dental laboratory is a good place to get tools and ideas for modelling. Thank you, Charlie
Thank you very much for these videos. I’m 47 and just got back into trains after about a third of a century (now N gauge). They are extremely informative. Unlike some of the more melodramatic ones there is no superfluous flummery. I really enjoy these extremely well enunciated and clear tutorials
This is exactly why I love your channel Charlie, not only do you show your successes but you are not shy to show the failures as well, so we can all learn ... thank you, cheers, Garry from DownUnder
Absolutely brilliant video, and this is why I'm a patreon. I LOVE people who 1. credit and shout out to those who influence and inspire them. It shows class and respect. 2. show their mistakes. This is something that encourages and supports everyone to just keep on keeping on. Thanks Charlie, as always :)
Charlie, its good to see Im not the only one that is dealing with "oops's". Last couple of videos, things havent gone to plan. Thats model railroading....live, learn and pass on to the next guy.
I watch alot of model railway channels I just find them fascinating. As of yesterday Everard junction was my favourite until I stumbled across your channel now I'm binge watching your series..
Charlie for my latest platform rebuild I used the peco walls/edging which have built in copers. Please note the hornby platform gauge provides too larger gap to the platform edge which results in an over large gap between the following stock and the platform edge I 3D printed my own spacers with the correct edge distance
I have been so inspired by watching your videos that after 50 years of dreaming of building a model railway I have finally taken the first steps. I did dabble in a garden line in the early 1990s but that was short lived. I'm 60 now and semi retired, so no excuses to getting it started.
You lured me in there. I was thinking that your new platform was looking so much better than my Peco stuff and perhaps I should start again? Then, I thought those ceramic tile were a bit pricey but if Everard and Chadwick have got them…… ….and then reality struck! Thanks as ever for your honest thoughts, some new ideas but also some reassurance that mine aren’t too bad.
Oh Charlie that was tough, particularly after all that effort you put in. On the bright side we all know never to do that again so you can safely mark this video as educational content!
Dear Charlie Interesting video and well done for the warts and all approach. For my platforms, I am using Peco platform edge sections, screwing them down at the correct distances apart (after decorating and weathering them) and the using card to infill, cutting out wiring routes for platform lighting and then finishing off with modelling clay. The clay finish has the advantage in that it can be smoothed without it looking too smooth. I then paint it complete with a white platform edging. I also add strips of emery paper to simulate bitmac where repairs have taken place. Images available, if you are interested Rob Biggs
Hi Charlie, great video. I've been going through this process myself at the moment! The technique I've been using is the paper method for the brick effect and sealing it with a quality matt varnish to prevent the water from the ballasting process softening the paper it also protects from UV damage, I've then covered a strip of 2mm square balsa in brick capping paper and glueing this to the top of the platform edge, this sets the distance of the platform and carriage. The top of the platform is a strip of 3mm MDF cut to the shape and width of the platform this is then sanded with 180 grit paper, lightly wiped to remove any dust and painted in a suitably pleasing colour, this gives a nice asphalt appearance without mucking around with expense liquid systems. I've then routed a shallow step in the top edge (using a rabbet router) to fit Plasticard tile effect this could be substituted for the ceramic tiles in your video and would probably give a better fitment, the routed edge makes the tiles flush with asphalt surface. once I've completed this I'll post some pics to your FB page and Hornby modelling for beginner's page when I get chance. keep up the good work, god knows we need something to watch as the tv is completely banjaxed these days! all the best, if you read this far well done, and all the best from Steve in Australia
So many comments and suggestions all go to demonstrate the interest and appreciation for what you do. Not in any way a disaster, just a slightly steeper learning curve ..... an inspiration to a lot, if not most, of us. Thank you.
Hi Charlie, like you said I use scribed plastic card for the slabs and fine wet and dry for the tarmac. I use a cheap guillotine to cut the strips. Loved watching you do this as it was really informative 👍
It's always perversely reassuring to see that other modellers encounter such disasters. You are never alone. One of the many reasons that I have for basing my model railway on the old Highland Railway is that I didn't have to worry about overhanging platform edges.😀
For my platform top I used gray Elmer's Foam Board, 3/16in (4.8 mm) thick. Smooth gray surface, white foam core. I left the surface smooth but painted the edge a matching shade of gray. It looks like concrete. The base is foam insulation board cut to 9/16 in (14 mm) thick, also painted gray. The top overhangs the base on the platform side by 1/8in (3 mm).
I made my platforms with 3mm MDF cut in 18mm strips to build a frame then topped with 1mm grey card & used brick paper on the MDF. However, on my sea wall edge, I needed big stone block edging curving around the sea wall and for this I 3D printed edging strips with lines cut into the model for the joints between the blocks. This also allowed me to radius the front edge.
Evening Charlie, I am the young gentlemen who you were talking to at the Wells Show on Saturday while I was working on Moors View (the Snowy N gauge one). It was a pleasure to talk to you and it was good to get some questions answered, I hope you enjoyed the show. i think these platforms look excellent. We spent a long time trying to remember the last name of Richard from Everard Junction and discussing Richard Watson move from Hornby to Accurascale. I look forward to future videos.
Thanks Charlie for saving a great deal of my life. I too had seen Richard's video on this and was contemplating copying him...... I will have five 10 foot platforms to do in my new layout! Plasticard it is! I wonder if you are thinking of copying his tile grout idea.
After a vacation day filled with bricklaying - wich I hate and am really not good at, but I am too cheap to hire a bricklayer - a new video from Chadwick is just what the doctor prescribed to relax 😊👍.
It sure is. And entertaining. Don’t be sad because the tiles didn’t work for You. Richard does car bodywork repair for a living (so do I). We are used to fiddle in the 10th of a millimeter range and are a bunch of strange freaks. That’s why we a capable of laying these things straight. Tbh, I would go the plasticard route either.
I admire your patience and honesty about when it’s time to call it a day and think of another idea. Unfortunately I’m one of those Metcalf platform kit persons with some modern platform edge stickers which have the tactile edge and yellow lines which are available on a well known model site. Thanks for making these videos, every one of them will be of help to many modellers, Andy.
Hi Charlie it's a bind when after taking hours marking out platform edges and gluing down loads of tiles and it goes all to pot.. I had the same experience and in the end opted for metcalfe paving slabs.. they are great. Self adhesive no messy superglue etc.
Brilliant stuff from Nigel, I plan my layouts using SCARM so now I can design my platforms on the printout to ensure the correct placing for straight platform sections. Curved sections sadly require some testing using the old pencil on the longest coach method.
Charlie I made my platform edging from 1 mm thick basswood and burned the individual slabs into it with my diode laser they look great. Great video again
That’s shame how that worked out Charlie, however for the wrong reasons it was still another great video, “those that never err, never learn”!The idea looked good and I am sure in the right place the tiles will look good! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video, Charlie, and an interesting feature on the platform construction. Previously in 'OO" I have used MDF cut to the width of the finished platform (including overhang), turned it upside down and used a router to remove the amount necessary in several passes in order to obtain the depth of overhang and thickness of the coping slab necessary. I have recently been faffing around with laser-cut platform kits for my 'N' gauge build and have lost the will to live (far too much warpage on these very thin kits for N) and will revert to the same technique as for the OO. Looking forward to the next video.
More tips I've gotten from this video, now need a circular saw or after how I use my jigsaw. Cutting plasticard, I've noticed a metal ruler in The Range that has a handle attached to it. Think it was only a fiver but will double check at the weekend as I'm planning to cut very similar plasticard for my box file layout platform, but I'm doing n-gauge and I'm clumsly, and the first I'll realise I've cut myself, is when I'm stood in a pool of my own blood. Great video as always Charlie.
And I thought the ceramic tiles were looking good! Personally I went for a laser etched platform edge by Scale Model Scenery. Basically a strip of edging in thin card. It works but doesn’t like alcohol spilt on it… Another first class video Charlie.
That is so interesting, just in the process of designing a new track layout and this is going to be really helpful. Thanks for sharing, Great Video. Linda ~ Loweville Junction Railroad 🚂
I'm sure it's mentioned elsewhere, but I used laser cut "steam era" platform edging. They come in strips which makes them very easy to lay. As always a great video and it's comforting to know that advanced modellers don't always get it right.
Your videos are extremely useful and refreshingly honest Charlie. It’s good to have someone show things that don’t work, and why, as much as it is to see when things do work. It’s also reassuring that those of us that do struggle aren’t completely useless after all! Everyone has problems with their layout. Looking forward to round 2!
Fantastic content there Charlie! Another ‘live and learn’ lesson for us. Thanks for trialing the tiles for us all…….looking forward to seeing the next video with your preferred solution for the platforms.
Hi Charlie that brick work you are displaying is called English bond that is alternative courses of headers and stretchers, when i was an apprentice brick layer many years ago. Well Charlie your video couldn't have come at a better time as i am at the same stage as you so to speak. I said a while ago to you that you show all, warts an all when you make your videos { that is mistakes } and don't shy away from showing them, and how to put them right great stuff . That was a great tip regarding the distance between the platform wall and the edge of the sleeper ,LOVELY as you say. Thank you Charlie once again for showing me/us how to do it and not to do it. cant wait for the the next video.
Love your videos Charlie. Have you ever considered dust collection when cutting? I simply use a cheap wet and dry vacuum cleaner (literally worth £25). I connect the hose to whatever power tool I'm using and it does the job great. A cost effective method for those who don't require a true 'shop vac' as these can be very expensive. With no dust collection at all, even outdoors on a still day, as soon as you take your mask off, you will be inhaling wood dust. Even worse when you start considering MDF. Love your modelling, look after those lungs 🙂👍🏻
Yes, I do have one Gateshead north. However, I chose not to use it during that sequence to show the amount of dust that will come off of those tiles. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayHi Charlie, thank you for the speedy reply. Just to be clear, I was referring to the circular saw dust, the filing of the tiles was of no concern. Anyway, just some constructive feedback, been watching your videos from day one. Keep up the good work 😎👍🏻
Dear Charlie, on glueing the plasticard to plasticard, this mount is much easier to do with Bondene or any other plastic cement. To glue plasticard to plywood I would recommend to first seal the plywood with a water based polyurethane, then use the superglue, this will significantly improve the grab of glue bond. Mounting the widest sheet of brick plasticard first in the above mentioned method will allow for the upper layers of brick to be mounted staggered to the bottom sheets. This will further improve the strength of the platform sides, plus it will help to camouflage the butt joints between the different sheets of plasticard. Covering the top of the platform with a thin sheet of plasticard, may be the way to go for anyone who wants to use the ceramic tile product. Here too, seal the plywood first and then attach the plasticard with super glue. When slightly protruded over the upper layers of brick, this allows for another Bondene glue joint, which will make a super strong glue joint alongside the entire platform. The protrusion can also be used to support the ceramic product without having to leave such a large exposed overhang. But, of course the platform edge can also be modeled with a scribed plasticard edge in similar fashion. Sealing the top of the platform with plasticard will also smoothen the platform’s surface for better alignment of the tiles. Plus, it allows for a tacky glue to be used, which will provide a bit more leeway for leveling the tiles, if only for the longer ‘open time.’ Cheerio
Thanks Vincent, you are bang on the money. Those joins would’ve looked so much better if they were staggered if you could see them at all. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie. Great video warts and all. It's a shame that the platform edging didn't work out, but at least you gave it a try. Hopefully you can find another way of doing it that will work for you. Kind regards. Mark.
Charlie, you mentioned that the platform height should be 19 millimetres. This correct as you are using code 100 with thick sleepers. However, if you are modelling with fine scale track with thin sleepers (such as SMP) this height needs to be decreased or you would go dangerously close to the carriage doors not opening. . I have always used 17mm as the best height in fine scale. Enjoyed the video. Great and informative as always.
Once again and as usual, merci beaucoup, Charlie, for taking the time to make those videos where we can learn a lof of you and eventually with you! 😀 Cheers.
Charlie, I was wondering early on if you had allowed for the extra buts near the top edge! I only did that once! Great video, as always, and getting platforms that are long and uniformly flat is a real challenge!
Another great video Charlie which has generated a lot of interesting comments and information from others. Thanks for sharing your pain with us. It really is useful. Roy.
Very informative as always Charlie. As for covering the sides of the platforms you advised against using brick papers, as the paper discolours when it comes into contact with wet PVA used to fix the ballast. This is true if you don't spay Matt varnish onto the brick paper first. If sprayed with varnish then the paper won't discolour. I have numerous Scalescenes structures on my layout which are all brick paper covered and have ballasted up and around them without issue. Cheers Euan
I use 2mm MDF for the platform tops, scribe the flagstone edges, then mask and spray accordingly and weather similarly. Costs peanuts, is very durable and looks great. (plus if you want to put any cracks in the surface, very easy to cut them in with a scalpel before spraying) ( I model in O gauge though, so might need something thinner in OO ?)
For gluing plastic to wood I highly recommend canopy glue - its often used by luthiers to attach pick guards etc to guitars. Pity about the ceramic tiles - I was looking forward to seeing you grout the little buggars😂
Hi Charlie I dont always comment but have been watching you for quite a few years, Just getting back into it after health issue and being unable to do much for the last 2 years . Thank you for this episode While i am N scale , You have just answered my question on building a station , I always enjoy your channel Thank you for the inspiration Regards Greg
That’s a great money saving video! Thanks for the tips there Charlie. I’ve plenty of platform length to build myself, so a lot of useful pointers to take note of. My only problem is that one of the platforms is going to be on a curve, so am going to have to take edge clearances into account. I suppose the same if you’re approaching from a curve, also making allowances for clearance when using an end of platform head shunt. Very much food for thought! Looking forward to part two to this one. Excellent presentation again, much appreciated. dB.
Thank you Charlie that was another excellent video. A learning curve of some degree, but hey "c'est la vie". We've all been there! Because of the way you approach your videos, is why the reason they are so liked. Looking forward to part 2 Take care, mate!👍
I admire your dedication to accuracy and getting the scale just right - I;m still at the "that looks roughly right so it will do" stage. I have to say that yours looks by far the better!
Brilliant video Charlie. I could feel your frustration at the end. I also love that you include mistakes and problems in your videos. The one where you mention that you tubers spend ages getting their running sessions perfect and that in reality they get derailments and stalling etc saved me from giving up on my model railway. Many thanks again
Oh dear Charlie! Personally, I would try chiseling the slabs off and then sand off the superglue. The rest of the timber and the edging should be fine. One of the (many) things I like about your channel is the 'warts and all' approach. To many channels show a perfect process that we all know isn't a true reflection of reality! Yet another great video and I look forward to seeing your next attempt!
Thanks Charlie, a learning experience that has saved quite a few of us, wasted hours of toil. I have used various methods over the years but can’t really beat scribed plasticard for platforms.
Full respect for showing things that didn't work (for whatever reason). I am sure that helps modellers everywhere. Good to see the station being developed.
Charlie, on my two part August 2024 update, I've been rebuilding platforms 1 & 2, using the Scale model scenery platform kit. It's worth checking out. You have to buy the surfacing, and walls, separately, but there's different combinations you can make, and it's really good, once you take your time, which I didn't do the first time, hence why I had to rebuild! Links to the products are in the descriptions of the videos.
If you have a Silhouette or Cricut cutting machine, you can get it to scribe a piece of A4 1mm plasticard with your slabs. Paint them with an airbrush, snap them all up into individual bits and you can lay them like these ceramic tiles but without the brittleness. The colour variation from the airbrush also gives a very nice subtle variation from slab to slab. I just paved three whole platform tops this way and yes, it took ages, but it looks really good and basically only cost the price of 2 or 3 sheets of plastic. You can glue them down with PVA or copydex and fill any small gaps with grout.
Hi Charlie, I went the cheap and cheerful route and used Metcalfe cardboard kit as there is only me to see it Another great video , better luck next Charlie with your platform edge.
Thanks Charlie. I did wonder about those ceramic tiles before you started. The thought of sticking them down one at a time filled me with dread. I did think the wash was a really good idea and it looked good. Shame about the tiles. But you live and learn.
Aww deer! I'll stick to my strange mix of Hornby Scaledale station buildings and platform, + the Superquick stuff ! Still good information, re the platform height and distance from the edge of the sleepers and the platforms...
The tiles may not have worked for a layout that evolves or has some maintenance but this was a great education. Your attention to detail with the platform build was great for a total novice like me. Adding those extra strips of Plasticard really makes a difference to the realism. The end result may not have worked on this occasion but I'm sure it's helped a lot of modellers learn something from this. Trying out ideas even if they do not work is still an education as we hopefully learn from our and others mistakes.. Anyway it's another top video Charlie. Many thanks for sharing.
I’ve had success in the past with 18mm moisture resistant MDF. Use a paper trace over your tracks to get the full platform size including correct overhang then router the sides back to the supporting wall depth leaving a 2mm deep lip for the platform edge. (MR) mdf the green stuff, is super for this job and then can be fine sanded, painted or stuck too! Nice effort with the tiles, maybe glue them to a thin strip of plasticard first?
You and Richard at Everard have VERY different styles (Being the two You Tube model railway channels I watch without fail). He designs perfect layouts to watch. If something is a millimetre out he will pull it and start again. Materials have to look *just* right so they fit. You are making a layout to be "played". Perfection is not required, but provides opportunity to redevelop and improve. The model needs more durability that PERFECT will not give. Its nice to see you use his (and others) techniques, as it allows us to compare between "look, don't touch perfection" and "replay-ability perfection"
Well, then I'm not going to try this at least 😅 I would have thought being so small with such a low overhang that they would have been better. Thanks for showing us when things don't go as planned Charlie :) Thomas, GWR Norway division Tromsø
It's frustrating when it doesn't work out, but well done for having a go. I had a very similar experience on Frontington, where I used tiny individual tiles for the edges, and they ended up being such a mess that I tore them all up and used longer strips instead, which worked much better, so I would definitely recommend that approach. Thanks for sharing, I look forward to seeing your part 2!
hi Charlie, i was thinking of the video , and i recon you could use the damage edge tiles as its a disused track , have the platform layed as you done and leave the snaped as per video, then make up a fence to corden of the disused side , lay the track upto the throat but have it trunkated, its an idea , once again great content ,
Great session as ever, Charlie. For what its worth, I've had reasonable results starting with 18mm MDF (no splinters), routing out a rebate for the platform edge, doing the walls same as you with Plasticard, then using an angle section of StripStyrene for the platform edging, scoring out "mortar joints" along the edge. Asphalt top using grey paint applied with a kitchen sponge.
Been a long time since I made any platforms for British outline. Like 45-50 years, I think. So we didn't have all the stuff available today. But the method wasn't entirely dissimilar. Block of ply or planed timber for the core, grubby brick papers up the side (Bilteezi rings a bell), Test with widest locos and stock, especially if there are any curves. Hardboard top cut to overhang. Superquick pavement paper on the edges (and across the whole platform in places), inset with rectangles of fine black sandpaper for tarmac. Test with widest locos again. Paint on Board of Trade white line on the edge. Then shave off the bits which are being caught by locos and stock which have inexplicably grown in width since the last test, and retouch the white line. You've now got very thin MDF sheets that you could use for the top, maybe in a couple of layers overlapping to give a corbelled edge (if that's the word). I think there are paving slabs from Slaters Plasticard that you could use for the edges.
Many thanks for such an interesting comment, Andrew. Yes, things have now moved on considerably, with laser cut MDF throughly available. Stay tuned for part two, regards Charlie.
Although superglue feels like a does-all-jobs kind of solution (it's called 'super' for a reason!) It's actually the last glue I'd use for most modelling jobs. It's such a brittle bond and you have to be so careful when handling it.
When bonding plastikard to plastikard, I'd recommend the kind of glue that comes in airfix kits. I use Revell Contacta. It'll bond better and gives you some time to reposition. Plus it won't glue your fingers together! Rockit card glue from Deluxe Materials actually bonds a wide variety of materials and is very strong too. That's what I'd use for plastic to wood.
Also, scoring plastikard lightly with a blade and 'snapping' it from the main sheet can result in a cleaner and straighter edge.
Great video as ever. Good luck with your next one 😊
Thanks PG, for some sensible and sound advice. Regards, Charlie.
I've mentioned it before, but the way you include the "failures" is a massive reassurance to those of us who like to get a bit over dramatic when something doesn't work. Keep up the good work Charlie.
That’s most kind. Leaving in the mistakes is crucial to the learning process. Regards, Charlie.
Just love your honesty and advice on not what to do. You are proving a great service to modellers.
Thanks Pierre, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
brilliant video Charlie
Gosh mells you have been busy. Regards, Charlie.
Thank you Charlie. Thank you most of all for not being perfect. As someone once told me. 'Try very hard to learn from the mistakes of others. You haven't got time to make them all yourself'.
Bless you
Steve.
Thanks, Steve , that was very kind of you to say so, mate. Regards, Charlie.
And also: " the man who never made a mistake, never made anything."
Appreciate the honesty. Great video.
Thanks Rob, it was such a joy! Regards Charlie
Nothing's wasted Charlie, you got a lesson out of it and we got an entertaining lesson.
Thanks, Nigel, every day is a school day! Regards Charlie
I think the tiles are interesting and the fact they are easy broken lends itself to interesting weathering potentials especially if your making disused and abandoned tracks, you could always glue the tiles to a strip of plasticard for additional support underneath when used for platform edging and that way everything would be neat an straight.
Yes, TS, hopefully they’ll come in useful for a abandoned platform. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, Hopefully Woodland Seanics will have a product you can use. I still enjoy your videos. For smoothing Smoothing plaster in the dental laboratory are used a Scotch-Brite sponge. The local Dental laboratory is a good place to get tools and ideas for modelling.
Thank you, Charlie
Thanks Dom, much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
Thank you very much for these videos. I’m 47 and just got back into trains after about a third of a century (now N gauge). They are extremely informative. Unlike some of the more melodramatic ones there is no superfluous flummery. I really enjoy these extremely well enunciated and clear tutorials
Thanks Ian , it’s comments such as yours and make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.
Really interesting and useful references Charlie thanks. Im just working on some platforms at the moment so this really helped. Tom
Hopefully Tom next weeks video should be even better. Regards, Charlie.
This is exactly why I love your channel Charlie, not only do you show your successes but you are not shy to show the failures as well, so we can all learn ... thank you, cheers, Garry from DownUnder
Thanks Garry, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Absolutely brilliant video, and this is why I'm a patreon. I LOVE people who
1. credit and shout out to those who influence and inspire them. It shows class and respect.
2. show their mistakes. This is something that encourages and supports everyone to just keep on keeping on.
Thanks Charlie, as always :)
Thanks BC, that’s exceptionally kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie.
PJM Models make some lovely platform kits worth considering, if you haven't seen them already. Another absorbing video Charlie, keep em coming.
Thanks CC, they’re obviously worth worth a look then. Regards, Charlie.
Not the cheapest but very tempting if you're looking for a permanent , robust and authentic looking platform. All the best, Clive.
Charlie, its good to see Im not the only one that is dealing with "oops's". Last couple of videos, things havent gone to plan. Thats model railroading....live, learn and pass on to the next guy.
Yes, Ray, it’s always better to learn from someone else’s mistakes. Regards, Charlie.
Loved the sound of the DMUs traversing the board joints!
Thanks Peter, it does add to the realism. Regards Charlie
Thanks for the honest review. Another great video.
Thanks, Kris, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
I watch alot of model railway channels I just find them fascinating. As of yesterday Everard junction was my favourite until I stumbled across your channel now I'm binge watching your series..
That’s most kind, and it’s great to have you on board. Regards, Charlie.
Great video Charlie. I really enjoy watching your layout develop and feel reassured it isn't just me who makes mistakes. Many thanks
Rest assured David, you’re not on your own. In 1 hours time part two will be out! Regards Charlie.
I was today years old when I found out that the PECO track gauge was also a platform gauge.
Never forget, that every day is a school day, Mike. Regards, Charlie.
Me too!
Charlie for my latest platform rebuild I used the peco walls/edging which have built in copers. Please note the hornby platform gauge provides too larger gap to the platform edge which results in an over large gap between the following stock and the platform edge I 3D printed my own spacers with the correct edge distance
24 for me
Same! 😆
Awesome update Charlie. Thank you for taking the time for this video.
Thanks Bob, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
I have been so inspired by watching your videos that after 50 years of dreaming of building a model railway I have finally taken the first steps. I did dabble in a garden line in the early 1990s but that was short lived. I'm 60 now and semi retired, so no excuses to getting it started.
Good luck :)
I’m so pleased that you have found some inspiration in my channel W2271. Regards, Charlie.
You lured me in there. I was thinking that your new platform was looking so much better than my Peco stuff and perhaps I should start again?
Then, I thought those ceramic tile were a bit pricey but if Everard and Chadwick have got them……
….and then reality struck!
Thanks as ever for your honest thoughts, some new ideas but also some reassurance that mine aren’t too bad.
Oh Charlie that was tough, particularly after all that effort you put in.
On the bright side we all know never to do that again so you can safely mark this video as educational content!
We learn together and move on. Better luck next time, regards, Charlie.
Dear Charlie
Interesting video and well done for the warts and all approach.
For my platforms, I am using Peco platform edge sections, screwing them down at the correct distances apart (after decorating and weathering them) and the using card to infill, cutting out wiring routes for platform lighting and then finishing off with modelling clay. The clay finish has the advantage in that it can be smoothed without it looking too smooth. I then paint it complete with a white platform edging. I also add strips of emery paper to simulate bitmac where repairs have taken place.
Images available, if you are interested
Rob Biggs
Thanks Robert, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Another fantastic video update. Kind regards and have a great weekend
Thanks, Mark, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
Oops, oh dear, at least you spotted it early enough , superb video
Thanks, Colin, we live and learn. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, great video. I've been going through this process myself at the moment! The technique I've been using is the paper method for the brick effect and sealing it with a quality matt varnish to prevent the water from the ballasting process softening the paper it also protects from UV damage, I've then covered a strip of 2mm square balsa in brick capping paper and glueing this to the top of the platform edge, this sets the distance of the platform and carriage. The top of the platform is a strip of 3mm MDF cut to the shape and width of the platform this is then sanded with 180 grit paper, lightly wiped to remove any dust and painted in a suitably pleasing colour, this gives a nice asphalt appearance without mucking around with expense liquid systems. I've then routed a shallow step in the top edge (using a rabbet router) to fit Plasticard tile effect this could be substituted for the ceramic tiles in your video and would probably give a better fitment, the routed edge makes the tiles flush with asphalt surface. once I've completed this I'll post some pics to your FB page and Hornby modelling for beginner's page when I get chance. keep up the good work, god knows we need something to watch as the tv is completely banjaxed these days! all the best, if you read this far well done, and all the best from Steve in Australia
Thanks, Steve , I’m very interested to see the results. Regards, Charlie.
So many comments and suggestions all go to demonstrate the interest and appreciation for what you do. Not in any way a disaster, just a slightly steeper learning curve ..... an inspiration to a lot, if not most, of us. Thank you.
Thanks Steve, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Very refreshing to see something „not“ being recommended … 👍
Lovely honest review
Thanks Doug, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie. Not exactly a disaster (Charlie doesn't do disasters!) - just a learning experience (we can all learn something as we go through life).
Every day is a school day Paul!
Regards Charlie from
Hi Charlie, like you said I use scribed plastic card for the slabs and fine wet and dry for the tarmac. I use a cheap guillotine to cut the strips. Loved watching you do this as it was really informative 👍
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
It's always perversely reassuring to see that other modellers encounter such disasters. You are never alone. One of the many reasons that I have for basing my model railway on the old Highland Railway is that I didn't have to worry about overhanging platform edges.😀
Thanks Jon, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
Love it! I.ve made more errors than trials. Your honesty keeps it real. Good luck with the next attempt.
Thanks BS, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
If you learn something new each day, it's a day well spent. Loved the content on this video, Charlie 👍
ThanksJeff, that’s most kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie
Yes i did enjoyed it a lot i just looking at building my platfroms so you was helpful
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie another very good informative video
Thanks Dave, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks for trying the tiles for us all. I won't be using them either. I'm clumsy so they work for me.
Thanks Kieth, I’m so pleased you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
For my platform top I used gray Elmer's Foam Board, 3/16in (4.8 mm) thick. Smooth gray surface, white foam core. I left the surface smooth but painted the edge a matching shade of gray. It looks like concrete. The base is foam insulation board cut to 9/16 in (14 mm) thick, also painted gray. The top overhangs the base on the platform side by 1/8in (3 mm).
Thanks, Paul , for sharing your preference. Regards, Charlie.
I made my platforms with 3mm MDF cut in 18mm strips to build a frame then topped with 1mm grey card & used brick paper on the MDF. However, on my sea wall edge, I needed big stone block edging curving around the sea wall and for this I 3D printed edging strips with lines cut into the model for the joints between the blocks. This also allowed me to radius the front edge.
An interesting method Asis.
Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie. I would not consider this wasted time or effort but a valuable lesson for us all. Thanks again for all that you do 🚂👍
Thanks, Lindsey, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
as always charlie informative and entertaining
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
Evening Charlie, I am the young gentlemen who you were talking to at the Wells Show on Saturday while I was working on Moors View (the Snowy N gauge one).
It was a pleasure to talk to you and it was good to get some questions answered, I hope you enjoyed the show. i think these platforms look excellent.
We spent a long time trying to remember the last name of Richard from Everard Junction and discussing Richard Watson move from Hornby to Accurascale.
I look forward to future videos.
Yes, Charlie, it was great to have a decent chat. Good luck with your projects, and stay safe. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway And you, thank you!
Thanks Charlie for saving a great deal of my life. I too had seen Richard's video on this and was contemplating copying him...... I will have five 10 foot platforms to do in my new layout! Plasticard it is! I wonder if you are thinking of copying his tile grout idea.
I have a plan, but you’ll have to hang on until next week! Regards Charlie
After a vacation day filled with bricklaying - wich I hate and am really not good at, but I am too cheap to hire a bricklayer - a new video from Chadwick is just what the doctor prescribed to relax 😊👍.
I do so hope you find it interesting, Theo, after a busy week. Regards Charlie.
It sure is. And entertaining. Don’t be sad because the tiles didn’t work for You. Richard does car bodywork repair for a living (so do I). We are used to fiddle in the 10th of a millimeter range and are a bunch of strange freaks. That’s why we a capable of laying these things straight. Tbh, I would go the plasticard route either.
I'm sure you will find use for those broken tiles somewhere on the layout Charlie. Enjoyed the video, thank you.
Thanks Steve, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
I admire your patience and honesty about when it’s time to call it a day and think of another idea. Unfortunately I’m one of those Metcalf platform kit persons with some modern platform edge stickers which have the tactile edge and yellow lines which are available on a well known model site. Thanks for making these videos, every one of them will be of help to many modellers, Andy.
Thanks Andy, I admit that my platforms from Times gone by are somewhat simpler to assemble. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie it's a bind when after taking hours marking out platform edges and gluing down loads of tiles and it goes all to pot.. I had the same experience and in the end opted for metcalfe paving slabs.. they are great. Self adhesive no messy superglue etc.
Thanks, David, we will have our little challenges.
Regards, Charlie
Brilliant stuff from Nigel, I plan my layouts using SCARM so now I can design my platforms on the printout to ensure the correct placing for straight platform sections. Curved sections sadly require some testing using the old pencil on the longest coach method.
An excellent comment Andrew, I’m already dreading my curved platforms. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie I made my platform edging from 1 mm thick basswood and burned the individual slabs into it with my diode laser they look great. Great video again
Thanks Bob, I shall have to look into a diode laser. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I do a lot of laser and 3D work and have nearly everything on my layout made from one on or the other
That’s shame how that worked out Charlie, however for the wrong reasons it was still another great video, “those that never err, never learn”!The idea looked good and I am sure in the right place the tiles will look good! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Kevin, but I’m sure those tiles will come in handy elsewhere. Regards, Charlie.
Excellent video, Charlie, and an interesting feature on the platform construction. Previously in 'OO" I have used MDF cut to the width of the finished platform (including overhang), turned it upside down and used a router to remove the amount necessary in several passes in order to obtain the depth of overhang and thickness of the coping slab necessary. I have recently been faffing around with laser-cut platform kits for my 'N' gauge build and have lost the will to live (far too much warpage on these very thin kits for N) and will revert to the same technique as for the OO. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for your support H 66, better luck next time perhaps. Regards, Charlie.
Love your videos and frank assessment of results. This really helps novices like myself. (Doing my apprenticeship in my 70’s is interesting 😂).
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel, Fred. Regards, Charlie.
More tips I've gotten from this video, now need a circular saw or after how I use my jigsaw.
Cutting plasticard, I've noticed a metal ruler in The Range that has a handle attached to it. Think it was only a fiver but will double check at the weekend as I'm planning to cut very similar plasticard for my box file layout platform, but I'm doing n-gauge and I'm clumsly, and the first I'll realise I've cut myself, is when I'm stood in a pool of my own blood.
Great video as always Charlie.
You could trim the tiles down, or "damage" them.
Thanks O74, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Sarah btw
And I thought the ceramic tiles were looking good! Personally I went for a laser etched platform edge by Scale Model Scenery. Basically a strip of edging in thin card. It works but doesn’t like alcohol spilt on it…
Another first class video Charlie.
That’s probably my next option, Mark. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, I absolutely love your videos! So glad you show the failures
, as well as success
Thanks Vernon, that’s really kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
That is so interesting, just in the process of designing a new track layout and this is going to be really helpful. Thanks for sharing, Great Video. Linda ~ Loweville Junction Railroad 🚂
Thanks Linda, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Nice to see you working on the branch line station again
And lots more to come too Gary. Regards, Charlie.
I'm sure it's mentioned elsewhere, but I used laser cut "steam era" platform edging. They come in strips which makes them very easy to lay. As always a great video and it's comforting to know that advanced modellers don't always get it right.
Thanks DSJ, I’ll be using those next week. Regards Charlie
Your videos are extremely useful and refreshingly honest Charlie. It’s good to have someone show things that don’t work, and why, as much as it is to see when things do work. It’s also reassuring that those of us that do struggle aren’t completely useless after all! Everyone has problems with their layout. Looking forward to round 2!
Thanks mate, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Fantastic content there Charlie! Another ‘live and learn’ lesson for us. Thanks for trialing the tiles for us all…….looking forward to seeing the next video with your preferred solution for the platforms.
I’m pleased that you found it interesting, Adrian, regardless of the final outcome. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie that brick work you are displaying is called English bond that is alternative courses of headers and stretchers, when i was an apprentice brick layer many years ago. Well Charlie your video couldn't have come at a better time as i am at the same stage as you so to speak. I said a while ago to you that you show all, warts an all when you make your videos { that is mistakes } and don't shy away from showing them, and how to put them right great stuff . That was a great tip regarding the distance between the platform wall and the edge of the sleeper ,LOVELY as you say. Thank you Charlie once again for showing me/us how to do it and not to do it. cant wait for the the next video.
Thanks Tony, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Love your videos Charlie.
Have you ever considered dust collection when cutting? I simply use a cheap wet and dry vacuum cleaner (literally worth £25). I connect the hose to whatever power tool I'm using and it does the job great. A cost effective method for those who don't require a true 'shop vac' as these can be very expensive.
With no dust collection at all, even outdoors on a still day, as soon as you take your mask off, you will be inhaling wood dust. Even worse when you start considering MDF. Love your modelling, look after those lungs 🙂👍🏻
Yes, I do have one Gateshead north. However, I chose not to use it during that sequence to show the amount of dust that will come off of those tiles. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayHi Charlie, thank you for the speedy reply. Just to be clear, I was referring to the circular saw dust, the filing of the tiles was of no concern. Anyway, just some constructive feedback, been watching your videos from day one. Keep up the good work 😎👍🏻
Dear Charlie, on glueing the plasticard to plasticard, this mount is much easier to do with Bondene or any other plastic cement. To glue plasticard to plywood I would recommend to first seal the plywood with a water based polyurethane, then use the superglue, this will significantly improve the grab of glue bond. Mounting the widest sheet of brick plasticard first in the above mentioned method will allow for the upper layers of brick to be mounted staggered to the bottom sheets. This will further improve the strength of the platform sides, plus it will help to camouflage the butt joints between the different sheets of plasticard.
Covering the top of the platform with a thin sheet of plasticard, may be the way to go for anyone who wants to use the ceramic tile product. Here too, seal the plywood first and then attach the plasticard with super glue. When slightly protruded over the upper layers of brick, this allows for another Bondene glue joint, which will make a super strong glue joint alongside the entire platform. The protrusion can also be used to support the ceramic product without having to leave such a large exposed overhang. But, of course the platform edge can also be modeled with a scribed plasticard edge in similar fashion.
Sealing the top of the platform with plasticard will also smoothen the platform’s surface for better alignment of the tiles. Plus, it allows for a tacky glue to be used, which will provide a bit more leeway for leveling the tiles, if only for the longer ‘open time.’ Cheerio
Thanks Vincent, you are bang on the money. Those joins would’ve looked so much better if they were staggered if you could see them at all. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I have used Metcalfe card paving stones to edge my platform. After blowing a coat of matte lacquer, they work quite well 😊
Many thanks for your advice, William, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie. Great video warts and all. It's a shame that the platform edging didn't work out, but at least you gave it a try. Hopefully you can find another way of doing it that will work for you. Kind regards. Mark.
Thanks Stan, rest assured that I’m on the case for a better outcome.
Regards Charlie
Charlie, you mentioned that the platform height should be 19 millimetres. This correct as you are using code 100 with thick sleepers. However, if you are modelling with fine scale track with thin sleepers (such as SMP) this height needs to be decreased or you would go dangerously close to the carriage doors not opening. . I have always used 17mm as the best height in fine scale. Enjoyed the video. Great and informative as always.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting, and thanks for the info. Regards, Charlie.
Once again and as usual, merci beaucoup, Charlie, for taking the time to make those videos where we can learn a lof of you and eventually with you! 😀
Cheers.
Thanks Claude, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, I was wondering early on if you had allowed for the extra buts near the top edge! I only did that once! Great video, as always, and getting platforms that are long and uniformly flat is a real challenge!
Thanks for your support, Kingsview, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Another great video Charlie which has generated a lot of interesting comments and information from others. Thanks for sharing your pain with us. It really is useful. Roy.
Thanks Roy, that’s really kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Great video Charlie, mistakes are all part of the learning process, we all make them… thanks for sharing yours! Cheers from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks Greg, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Very informative as always Charlie. As for covering the sides of the platforms you advised against using brick papers, as the paper discolours when it comes into contact with wet PVA used to fix the ballast. This is true if you don't spay Matt varnish onto the brick paper first. If sprayed with varnish then the paper won't discolour. I have numerous Scalescenes structures on my layout which are all brick paper covered and have ballasted up and around them without issue. Cheers Euan
Thank you, Ewan, for a very interesting tip. Regards, Charlie.
I use 2mm MDF for the platform tops, scribe the flagstone edges, then mask and spray accordingly and weather similarly. Costs peanuts, is very durable and looks great. (plus if you want to put any cracks in the surface, very easy to cut them in with a scalpel before spraying)
( I model in O gauge though, so might need something thinner in OO ?)
My procedure in OO, will be very similar to yours in O. Regards, Charlie.
For gluing plastic to wood I highly recommend canopy glue - its often used by luthiers to attach pick guards etc to guitars. Pity about the ceramic tiles - I was looking forward to seeing you grout the little buggars😂
Thanks Hugh, I imagine disappointment happens to us all! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I dont always comment but have been watching you for quite a few years, Just getting back into it after health issue and being unable to do much for the last 2 years . Thank you for this episode While i am N scale , You have just answered my question on building a station , I always enjoy your channel Thank you for the inspiration Regards Greg
Thanks Greg, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
That’s a great money saving video!
Thanks for the tips there Charlie. I’ve plenty of platform length to build myself, so a lot of useful pointers to take note of. My only problem is that one of the platforms is going to be on a curve, so am going to have to take edge clearances into account. I suppose the same if you’re approaching from a curve, also making allowances for clearance when using an end of platform head shunt.
Very much food for thought! Looking forward to part two to this one.
Excellent presentation again, much appreciated. dB.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie that was another excellent video.
A learning curve of some degree, but hey "c'est la vie".
We've all been there!
Because of the way you approach your videos, is why the reason they are so liked.
Looking forward to part 2
Take care, mate!👍
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
I admire your dedication to accuracy and getting the scale just right - I;m still at the "that looks roughly right so it will do" stage. I have to say that yours looks by far the better!
Thanks JB, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Brilliant video Charlie. I could feel your frustration at the end. I also love that you include mistakes and problems in your videos. The one where you mention that you tubers spend ages getting their running sessions perfect and that in reality they get derailments and stalling etc saved me from giving up on my model railway.
Many thanks again
I couldn’t agree more David, the honesty on UA-cam is far from perfect. Regards, Charlie.
Oh dear Charlie! Personally, I would try chiseling the slabs off and then sand off the superglue. The rest of the timber and the edging should be fine.
One of the (many) things I like about your channel is the 'warts and all' approach. To many channels show a perfect process that we all know isn't a true reflection of reality! Yet another great video and I look forward to seeing your next attempt!
Thanks Al, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, a learning experience that has saved quite a few of us, wasted hours of toil. I have used various methods over the years but can’t really beat scribed plasticard for platforms.
Yes, I think you’re backing a winner there. Regards, Charlie.
We live and learn. Thanks for showing the pitfalls which is just as valuable as when it all turns out fine first time.
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
Full respect for showing things that didn't work (for whatever reason). I am sure that helps modellers everywhere. Good to see the station being developed.
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, on my two part August 2024 update, I've been rebuilding platforms 1 & 2, using the Scale model scenery platform kit. It's worth checking out. You have to buy the surfacing, and walls, separately, but there's different combinations you can make, and it's really good, once you take your time, which I didn't do the first time, hence why I had to rebuild! Links to the products are in the descriptions of the videos.
Thanks CBS, I shall check them out. Regards, Charlie.
If you have a Silhouette or Cricut cutting machine, you can get it to scribe a piece of A4 1mm plasticard with your slabs. Paint them with an airbrush, snap them all up into individual bits and you can lay them like these ceramic tiles but without the brittleness. The colour variation from the airbrush also gives a very nice subtle variation from slab to slab. I just paved three whole platform tops this way and yes, it took ages, but it looks really good and basically only cost the price of 2 or 3 sheets of plastic. You can glue them down with PVA or copydex and fill any small gaps with grout.
Great advice JG. Sadly I don’t own such machines. However, I’ll do it the hard way. Regards, Charlie.
“The female has the power; Nothing new there!” So prophetic. Wisdom of a happily married man. Cheers Charlie another great video.
Thanks Ken, I’m so pleased that you found it entertaining. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, there is a track with platform faces on both sides and where the doors open on both sides on the DLR at Canary Wharf.
Oh, that’s interesting, many thanks, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I went the cheap and cheerful route and used Metcalfe cardboard kit as there is only me to see it Another great video , better luck next Charlie with your platform edge.
Thanks Michael, I already have another plan! Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie. I did wonder about those ceramic tiles before you started. The thought of sticking them down one at a time filled me with dread. I did think the wash was a really good idea and it looked good. Shame about the tiles. But you live and learn.
Thanks Don, but it’s back to the drawing board on this one. Regards, Charlie.
Aww deer! I'll stick to my strange mix of Hornby Scaledale station buildings and platform, + the Superquick stuff ! Still good information, re the platform height and distance from the edge of the sleepers and the platforms...
Thanks Mike, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Another great video.
Hopefully you can save the brickwork, then all is not lost. Either way, it made a very entertaining video.
Back to the drawing board, Neil, regards Charlie
The tiles may not have worked for a layout that evolves or has some maintenance but this was a great education. Your attention to detail with the platform build was great for a total novice like me. Adding those extra strips of Plasticard really makes a difference to the realism. The end result may not have worked on this occasion but I'm sure it's helped a lot of modellers learn something from this. Trying out ideas even if they do not work is still an education as we hopefully learn from our and others mistakes.. Anyway it's another top video Charlie. Many thanks for sharing.
Thanks,Anthony, your support is much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
love the MOD ear defs Charlie
Bought at a car boot sale!
I’ve had success in the past with 18mm moisture resistant MDF. Use a paper trace over your tracks to get the full platform size including correct overhang then router the sides back to the supporting wall depth leaving a 2mm deep lip for the platform edge. (MR) mdf the green stuff, is super for this job and then can be fine sanded, painted or stuck too! Nice effort with the tiles, maybe glue them to a thin strip of plasticard first?
Thanks Jonah, for some sound advice. Regards, Charlie.
You and Richard at Everard have VERY different styles (Being the two You Tube model railway channels I watch without fail).
He designs perfect layouts to watch. If something is a millimetre out he will pull it and start again. Materials have to look *just* right so they fit.
You are making a layout to be "played". Perfection is not required, but provides opportunity to redevelop and improve. The model needs more durability that PERFECT will not give. Its nice to see you use his (and others) techniques, as it allows us to compare between "look, don't touch perfection" and "replay-ability perfection"
Thanks, Kieran for a very interesting comment. Please remember the perfect is the enemy of good enough! Regards Charlie.
Well, then I'm not going to try this at least 😅
I would have thought being so small with such a low overhang that they would have been better. Thanks for showing us when things don't go as planned Charlie :)
Thomas,
GWR Norway division Tromsø
Thanks Thomas, it was a difficult undertaking. Regards Charlie.
It's frustrating when it doesn't work out, but well done for having a go. I had a very similar experience on Frontington, where I used tiny individual tiles for the edges, and they ended up being such a mess that I tore them all up and used longer strips instead, which worked much better, so I would definitely recommend that approach. Thanks for sharing, I look forward to seeing your part 2!
Thanks Matthew, every day is a school day for us all. Regards, Charlie.
hi Charlie,
i was thinking of the video , and i recon you could use the damage edge tiles as its a disused track , have the platform layed as you done and leave the snaped as per video, then make up a fence to corden of the disused side , lay the track upto the throat but have it trunkated, its an idea ,
once again great content ,
Many thanks you were advised Tony, the same thought had occurred to me. However, I am going to scrap it. Regards, Charlie.
Great session as ever, Charlie. For what its worth, I've had reasonable results starting with 18mm MDF (no splinters), routing out a rebate for the platform edge, doing the walls same as you with Plasticard, then using an angle section of StripStyrene for the platform edging, scoring out "mortar joints" along the edge. Asphalt top using grey paint applied with a kitchen sponge.
Thanks, Alan, for sharing your methodology. Regards, Charlie.
Been a long time since I made any platforms for British outline. Like 45-50 years, I think. So we didn't have all the stuff available today. But the method wasn't entirely dissimilar. Block of ply or planed timber for the core, grubby brick papers up the side (Bilteezi rings a bell), Test with widest locos and stock, especially if there are any curves. Hardboard top cut to overhang. Superquick pavement paper on the edges (and across the whole platform in places), inset with rectangles of fine black sandpaper for tarmac. Test with widest locos again. Paint on Board of Trade white line on the edge. Then shave off the bits which are being caught by locos and stock which have inexplicably grown in width since the last test, and retouch the white line. You've now got very thin MDF sheets that you could use for the top, maybe in a couple of layers overlapping to give a corbelled edge (if that's the word). I think there are paving slabs from Slaters Plasticard that you could use for the edges.
Many thanks for such an interesting comment, Andrew.
Yes, things have now moved on considerably, with laser cut MDF throughly available. Stay tuned for part two, regards Charlie.
Model Railway a lot of trial and error sometimes.
All the best Charlie
Deano
Thanks Deano, it was a bit of a struggle. Regards, Charlie.