Hello from Europe brother, thanks for this video! This fix worked for me, Couple of things tho: 1. You dont need the constant power source, only the 2 other wires are needed. But i agree a kill switch is a good idea considering the car doesnt have an immo anymore. 2. This will work with an OBD2 ECU if you combine this bypass with the bypass inside the ECU (open the OBD2 ECU, locate the small board named "immo ao" and just remove it) 3. If you want to keep your plug intact, you can use a paper clip to bridge the connector. Ps. for european brothers, the wire colors in our cars will be different than in this video, but they are plugged the same, follow the wire location on the plug, not the wire color!! Thanks bro, couldnt have done this without you!!!
@@Moneygrip I want to clarify, i think the reason you thought you need the constant power source is because your key ignition was in the off position 👍 sick video tho bro, ive been driving all day in the spring weather thanks to you
@@NjoyMoney nah it was just how the attempt worked out. There was no write ups or anything so i had to figure it out on my own and this was the way i did it. I was under the assumption that the immobilizer box broke constant power to the ecu so i threw a kill switch in
The immobilizer sends a signal to the ECU allowing it to start or not start depending on if the ring reads the correct chip. The Chip in the key the immobilizer and ECU are all linked together. They are all a set, you can't just swap one without all 3. This may or maynot work but I have personally installed an OBD1 adaptor and P28/Hondata and it started just fine with no other modifications.
Jordan Distributors push to start is also another way to do it by zip tying the programmed key to the immobilizer and replacing it with their kit. You will lose the steering lock though if you mount the button in the key hole.
This works 100% with an s300.I have rewired my prelude completely and can confirm.If you're doing the same thing with a stock k24 ecu you need it chipped or k-tuned bypass module.But yeah essentially it just cuts the power n earths like he said.After that it matches the key signal to ecu and if they dont match it doesn't throw plug spark and other stuff.So there's 2 parts to ecu immobilizer(except obd1).So even if you bypass it without a chip.immobilizer bypass it will cry again.
Heyy, you literally saved my life with my RD1 CRV. I welded a few things over the weekend with the battery removed, and it killed the immo, finally found a good vid about the wiring because the 1300 page factory service manual says nothing about the immo box pinout
Good work I’ll keep that one in mind! But I got another problem and hope you can help! I did a AT to MT swap! But I can’t figure out the neutral safety switch! Thx
sick bro, i just had a locksmith reflash my immobilizer & program a new key he made because I lost all the keys, green key light doesnt flash anymore which i think means its programmed correctly, but now it just cranks, no start no spark, you think it could be an immobilizer issue or could it just be a crank/tdc sensor or spark issue?
yea green key turns on, then turns off, it ran good before the new key was programmed, it had a code for tdc no pulse but it was running with the code for a while before this happened
Aye brother so I’m basically having the same problem that your having, but there is a viper system installed on the car could that be causing me problems also. (Lost the viper fob). Should I or do I need to completely remove the viper
There should be no reason to feed power from A1 (always hot) to A4 (hot in run). The A4 is only there to give the immobox RUN power. It doesn't reverse it to power things externally. If you had to do this then it means you where having an issue with your RUN power feed. May want to look into that cause right now your powering it all from the immo's original always hot fuse.
I call bullshit on saying a chipped obd1 ecu won’t bypass an immobilizer. I’ve ran with an obd1 p28 for 7 years and lost my keys a ton of times and CAN still start my car without the key or triggering the immobilizer. Still a good and informative video.
The issue was the Immobilizer control unit itself in his car ended up with a problem that would kill power going to the ecu. In a vast majority of swap situations, it’d be like you said: OBD1 swap, Immobilizer Starter bypass to use any key if you choose, and start/run with no issues. However, the control unit is still in-line with the circuit. Since it is present and is still being powered in some capacity with relations to the ecu, a risk of problems in the future will be possible. Give current 5th gen owners who are stepped down to OBD1 another decade or two. Eventually, the Immobilizer control unit circuit boards will begin to show age and problems like he described will arise.
Then explain why my fix worked you saw it clear as day the car used to work just find then the immobilizer failed and heres the result it could vary year by year it could not this is what worked for me because i tried just having the immobilizer unplugged and then nothing worked at all. If you want to test it unplug your immobilizer and tell me if your car starts
Thanks for the video, I know this is a year old and you probably won’t see it but I am having a lot of trouble with my prelude. I just swapped in an engine and transmission, I even took the entire wire harness and installed it through the whole car. The key light flashes when I put in the key, so I tried this and still nothing. It’ll crank but it won’t start. Any suggestions?
I did this and now the car cranks but I’ve lost my fuel pump. Previously it couldn’t crank and wouldn’t spark with the starter jumped but I could head fuel pump in the on position. Fully stock 97.
Alr. So I have a em2 civic. And I have a key issue where I bought a new ignition assembly with a key, I went to the dealer to get it programmed to the ECU but still doesn’t crank it or start. I’m thinking maybe I can tap into the fuel pump and have a switch for it since the immo cuts off the fuel pump. Or would I have to tap into the relay for the fuel pump? I rlly need help bc it’s my only car
so i got it turning over again you wqere right about the fuse.i swapped in an obd1 ecu but im still not getting any spark if i ground out one of the sets you did it wont let the starter kick over
Hey so lost my keys and new ones made but they didn’t work because I needed the original keys to add new ones but I did this video step by step and now my car turns over but doesn’t wanna start what am I missing or doing wrong thank you ! 😎🙂
Will this also help woth the ignition recall, inhad the recall done and my car still cuts out while driving. I cant figure it out. Also replaced the recall ignition switch with another one amd had to chip the ecu to read my key. Ao if its chipped will this still work?
So I’m having an issue with my 98 prelude I just bought it off a guy he said it’s salvage due to theft . Everything in car is completely stock ! Guy stated that only thing they took was the ecu . Car used to not crank over . I repaired few power wires I changed spark plugs and wires that got car to crank over and turn on for about 3 seconds then car shuts off I got fuel coming in . Got spark , fuel and air . I checked distributor everything was fine timing was correct ECU is getting signal and ignition switch is fine . I’m beginning to think it’s the immobilized due to theft issue and having to put another ecu in it . . Would this possibly repair the car by passing immobilizer ? This my last solution
Code 9 on obd1 92-95 ecu means that the ecu part that controls code 9 is fried out, wire or plug is broke..or the sensor is bad(cyp) inside the distributor .those 3 is whats to check..now if youre using a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness then those ebay junk ones are wired/pinned wrong or the cable came loose ..so i highly recommend buying $100+ jumper harness or buy 3 cheap ebays til you get the right one to start your car
@ swapped everything potentially involved (ECU, immo box, and ignition with matching key to all) and now I’ve got crank but no start. Sounds like fuel pump is on for longer than intended on startup sequence. Next I’m gonna rip out the compustar in hopes that’s what’s keeping it from running at this point. Will keep updating as I attack this shit. If alarm removal doesn’t work, then I’ll be onto the P13 with Hondata
@@Moneygrip I tried the immo By-pass, then reverted back to replacing every correlating component of the system. You insist that I cannot simply replace all of the components from one of my parts cars? Kinda annoying that I have to go to a piggyback at least. At this point I’d almost rather save for a haltech
Okay tried it all it seems, looks like I’ll be converting to OBD1 if anyone has a P28 or P13 (preferably with an s300 v3) Willing to ship to Vancouver Canada asap.
1996-04 rl is the same way I hot a key made for 380$ the guy took the imobilizer and made a new key because my original key was I wish I saw this sooner
Dam you didn't have to cut the ignition switch wires all you had to do is by pass grey and blue wire from the immobilizer to send signal to the starter, I'm running a p28 ECU and use the HAmotorsports diagram and it worked great shot I'm even running a 4th gen ignition switch, unfortunately here in Nevada we have admissions so for a price of 99 bucks you can send out any ECU to them and they will remove the immobilizer with in the ECU this is for any one wanting to pass admissions and want to run stock, they will also show you how to by bas the immobilizer under the dash/steering wheel
its a 2000 acura 3.5rl, tried getting an aftermarket repair manual like clymer or haynes, they dont make one. the immobilizer is the exact part that you showed in your video, just with different colour coded wires. i tried looking under the dash for the ecu, no luck so far. hope you can help, other than losing the one key i had, car is in good shape@@Moneygrip
Hey man.. i was doing a manual swap from -97 auto to manual do i need to change the immoblizer too? I had manual ecu which has been changed already and i also have immoblizer from the manual car .... but that wont register the key right? The original immoblizer should work right... I didn't have any problems with the immoblizer with the car ....
Correct.automatic ecu is completely different from manual ecu..youre still at 0(homebase) ..after the ecu manual swap your suppose to bypass the inmobilizer or heres the better option get rid of the obd2 ECUs and go p28 obd1 tuner friendly ecu that did not come from honda with inmobilizer ..92-95 hondas had 0 anti theft..the only thing that was anti theft was the felony charges of the USA that was related to stealing 😂
@@Moneygrip but when I remove it from the ecu ground is turns over but the moment I put it back it won't let the starter go is there a chance you have any other social media I can get a hold of you on?
This video was the whole answer to the question your asking..so lets say its year 1997 and you was stuck in the middle of no where but somehow you had youtube this is what you would do.now if your building a racecar.then what he just showed in the video you dont have todo allyou gotta do is get a p28 obd1 ecu throw it in the car and thats it ..p28 obd1 ecu does not care about a chipped key .. @@AndrewSmith-hs1pu
Hey man the vid helped a lot, I had the same problem with having to bypass the immobilizer, but I had a push to start kit from JDI, if you use that and just connect the blue and grey wires together it works perfectly fine. I had to do this because I only had unprogrammed keys for my 01 prelude Edit- autocorrect error
Took it for a test drive (granted I stalled a few times cause I’m new to driving stick) it started back up with no problem each time, the only thing I’m trying to trouble shoot is the missing key light that keeps blinking
Well did you keep the immobilizer box in place bc that failed on mine and thats why i had to do this whole thing the blue and grey only do the starter circuit
@paulmendez2409 is this with stock obd2 ecu? I am looking at buying a prelude that has NO keys so I want to get the push to start kit and jump the gray and blue wires to see if it will start. Do you also need the immobilizer bypass chip on the ecu or did it work simply only jumping the wires?
@@celbiiallegedly zip tying the key to the immobilizer to give it a continuous signal is the way. You will need to get a key programmed for it plus body keys. The dealer can do it for you once you have proof you own the car.
I did eveything as in the video i got it to crank but the crank died out does anyone have an idea as to why that is so now i have no crank but i could hear the fuel pump that’s abt it
Does your still work? Mine just started happening. I have hondata s300 too and mine keeps kill the ecu power. Does the switch burn out? How much power u making
The car broke on the dyno was shooting for 700+ it made 570hp on 19lbs and hondata is hot garbage i threw mine out because it was dropping the voltage for the throttle position out the ecu failed along with my immobilizer failure
why did you by pass it, you don't need to you are wrong, only time you would need to is if you lost your key and wanted to use the key from another car, but if you have your key still and just want to swap the ecu then go check my video out, there is a small board in the ecu you just swap that over tot eh new ecu, all the immobilizer box does is pair the key to the immobilizer then send a signal to the ecu where the immobilizer board then check they all match so just swapping that board to another ecu is all you need to do
@@philoffhistree let me spell it out for you. My immobilizer box completely failed and was blowing the fuse for the ecu. I did it out of necessity. So tell me how im wrong again. My kill switch works just fine
There is a company that will remove the immobilizer out of the ecu for like $100, and you only need to jump a wire and unplug the immobilizer. But hey if you found a better way, i say do it.
Your interpretation of the wiring diagram is so completely wrong it hurts. Unplugging the immobilizer and tying the wires to the starter cut relay through in combination with an immo deleted ECU bypasses it If all it did was cut power to the ECU you could just connect those wires together and it would be bypassed on any 5g Prelude and we all know that doesn't work.
@@Moneygrip just because it worked doesn't mean your explanation of the system is correct in any way. Your explanation of the system was completely incorrect and your wiring diagram interpretation is laughable. The immo unit doesn't cut any power or ground to the ECM. Especially not ground.
![Honda Prelude Replaced ECU Now Car Wont Start [How To Fix] Immobiliser](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XgibiRNY0fE/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello from Europe brother, thanks for this video! This fix worked for me, Couple of things tho:
1. You dont need the constant power source, only the 2 other wires are needed. But i agree a kill switch is a good idea considering the car doesnt have an immo anymore.
2. This will work with an OBD2 ECU if you combine this bypass with the bypass inside the ECU (open the OBD2 ECU, locate the small board named "immo ao" and just remove it)
3. If you want to keep your plug intact, you can use a paper clip to bridge the connector.
Ps. for european brothers, the wire colors in our cars will be different than in this video, but they are plugged the same, follow the wire location on the plug, not the wire color!!
Thanks bro, couldnt have done this without you!!!
True
@@Moneygrip I want to clarify, i think the reason you thought you need the constant power source is because your key ignition was in the off position 👍 sick video tho bro, ive been driving all day in the spring weather thanks to you
@@NjoyMoney nah it was just how the attempt worked out. There was no write ups or anything so i had to figure it out on my own and this was the way i did it. I was under the assumption that the immobilizer box broke constant power to the ecu so i threw a kill switch in
@@Moneygrip I understand, thanks bro 🙂
@@NjoyMoney hit me up on instagram dawg trx.ron
The immobilizer sends a signal to the ECU allowing it to start or not start depending on if the ring reads the correct chip. The Chip in the key the immobilizer and ECU are all linked together. They are all a set, you can't just swap one without all 3. This may or maynot work but I have personally installed an OBD1 adaptor and P28/Hondata and it started just fine with no other modifications.
Not in this case the immobilizer is stand alone like I explained in the video
@@Moneygrip I jumped the wires like u said and it cranks now but no fuel or spark. With the factory 01 ecu… Any ideas?? Thanks!!
@@joshc7091 swap to an obd1 ecu or get a stand alone or a hondata
@@joshc7091 You need to remove immo chip from the original 01 ecu.
Jordan Distributors push to start is also another way to do it by zip tying the programmed key to the immobilizer and replacing it with their kit. You will lose the steering lock though if you mount the button in the key hole.
@@thatloudCG5 what about if the immobilizer just stops working 100% like in my case where it failed completely?
@@Moneygrip that, idk.
@@thatloudCG5 the push button would have been way cooler than cutting my factory body harness up
@@Moneygrip I guess after looking into it yourself, you're regretting it a little bit. But what's done is done.
@@thatloudCG5 no regrets here
This works 100% with an s300.I have rewired my prelude completely and can confirm.If you're doing the same thing with a stock k24 ecu you need it chipped or k-tuned bypass module.But yeah essentially it just cuts the power n earths like he said.After that it matches the key signal to ecu and if they dont match it doesn't throw plug spark and other stuff.So there's 2 parts to ecu immobilizer(except obd1).So even if you bypass it without a chip.immobilizer bypass it will cry again.
Thank you
Heyy, you literally saved my life with my RD1 CRV. I welded a few things over the weekend with the battery removed, and it killed the immo, finally found a good vid about the wiring because the 1300 page factory service manual says nothing about the immo box pinout
Also, greetings and big thanks from Hungary!
I have the same problem on my Crv when I put a chip ecu dit yours work whit this bypass
@@reginalddawikromo if you remove the EPROM from the ecu, the little vertical board, it should work
Thank bro! Hope this helps a lot of 5th gen guys using p28
Good work I’ll keep that one in mind!
But I got another problem and hope you can help! I did a AT to MT swap! But I can’t figure out the neutral safety switch! Thx
sick bro, i just had a locksmith reflash my immobilizer & program a new key he made because I lost all the keys, green key light doesnt flash anymore which i think means its programmed correctly, but now it just cranks, no start no spark, you think it could be an immobilizer issue or could it just be a crank/tdc sensor or spark issue?
Did it run before the spark issue? It should light up green and then shut off
yea green key turns on, then turns off, it ran good before the new key was programmed, it had a code for tdc no pulse but it was running with the code for a while before this happened
Aye brother so I’m basically having the same problem that your having, but there is a viper system installed on the car could that be causing me problems also. (Lost the viper fob). Should I or do I need to completely remove the viper
Remove the viper
Thanks for the fast reply so I can keep this day rollin man !
@@zekefox2173 i got you bro
There should be no reason to feed power from A1 (always hot) to A4 (hot in run). The A4 is only there to give the immobox RUN power. It doesn't reverse it to power things externally. If you had to do this then it means you where having an issue with your RUN power feed. May want to look into that cause right now your powering it all from the immo's original always hot fuse.
Possibly. I’m ripping all the oem wiring out i dont need it for the cars application anymore. You’re more than welcome to try it out.
Please please...will this help if I used the RED KEY TO start the car 😢😢 TY....btw...I subscribed!!!
I still have the red key and the black key, If that helps....
@@jhamilton497 no i dont understand the question?
😊
I call bullshit on saying a chipped obd1 ecu won’t bypass an immobilizer. I’ve ran with an obd1 p28 for 7 years and lost my keys a ton of times and CAN still start my car without the key or triggering the immobilizer. Still a good and informative video.
The issue was the Immobilizer control unit itself in his car ended up with a problem that would kill power going to the ecu. In a vast majority of swap situations, it’d be like you said: OBD1 swap, Immobilizer Starter bypass to use any key if you choose, and start/run with no issues. However, the control unit is still in-line with the circuit. Since it is present and is still being powered in some capacity with relations to the ecu, a risk of problems in the future will be possible. Give current 5th gen owners who are stepped down to OBD1 another decade or two. Eventually, the Immobilizer control unit circuit boards will begin to show age and problems like he described will arise.
Then explain why my fix worked you saw it clear as day the car used to work just find then the immobilizer failed and heres the result it could vary year by year it could not this is what worked for me because i tried just having the immobilizer unplugged and then nothing worked at all. If you want to test it unplug your immobilizer and tell me if your car starts
You just saved me 120 bucks thanks g
Thanks for the video, I know this is a year old and you probably won’t see it but I am having a lot of trouble with my prelude. I just swapped in an engine and transmission, I even took the entire wire harness and installed it through the whole car. The key light flashes when I put in the key, so I tried this and still nothing. It’ll crank but it won’t start. Any suggestions?
@@hechizo_coyote check to see if youre getting fuel and spark. Check to see if the engine is timed right with the cams and crank
I did this and now the car cranks but I’ve lost my fuel pump. Previously it couldn’t crank and wouldn’t spark with the starter jumped but I could head fuel pump in the on position. Fully stock 97.
Double check your wiring connections on everything
Alr. So I have a em2 civic. And I have a key issue where I bought a new ignition assembly with a key, I went to the dealer to get it programmed to the ECU but still doesn’t crank it or start. I’m thinking maybe I can tap into the fuel pump and have a switch for it since the immo cuts off the fuel pump. Or would I have to tap into the relay for the fuel pump? I rlly need help bc it’s my only car
so i got it turning over again you wqere right about the fuse.i swapped in an obd1 ecu but im still not getting any spark if i ground out one of the sets you did it wont let the starter kick over
The way i did it in the video is how i got it to work try double checking the wiring you got this man
Why not wire it to your ignition switch so it turns on and off with the key instead of a extra switch
Was just rushing to get the car running again and wanted to hide a kill switch
Hey so lost my keys and new ones made but they didn’t work because I needed the original keys to add new ones but I did this video step by step and now my car turns over but doesn’t wanna start what am I missing or doing wrong thank you ! 😎🙂
Double check all your connections and if you have the stock odb2 computer switch it out for an odb1 or hondata computer or stand alone ecu
I tried this on my 97 prelude I just got. It has an f20b blue top dohc swap on it and it still no crank no start. Please advise
Get an obd1 ecu or hondata or a stand alone
Will this also help woth the ignition recall, inhad the recall done and my car still cuts out while driving. I cant figure it out. Also replaced the recall ignition switch with another one amd had to chip the ecu to read my key. Ao if its chipped will this still work?
Replace the main relay
So I’m having an issue with my 98 prelude I just bought it off a guy he said it’s salvage due to theft . Everything in car is completely stock ! Guy stated that only thing they took was the ecu . Car used to not crank over . I repaired few power wires I changed spark plugs and wires that got car to crank over and turn on for about 3 seconds then car shuts off I got fuel coming in . Got spark , fuel and air . I checked distributor everything was fine timing was correct ECU is getting signal and ignition switch is fine . I’m beginning to think it’s the immobilized due to theft issue and having to put another ecu in it . . Would this possibly repair the car by passing immobilizer ? This my last solution
Is the green key light on the dash lighting up and shutting off?
Kicks over but doesn't start now. Advice? maybe time for me to get a new ECU?
Never mind it was my ignition switch not my immobiliser.
@1kbryy Have you had a problem with code 9 cylinder sensor cel on hondata s300?
@Moneygrip
Code 9 on obd1 92-95 ecu means that the ecu part that controls code 9 is fried out, wire or plug is broke..or the sensor is bad(cyp) inside the distributor .those 3 is whats to check..now if youre using a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness then those ebay junk ones are wired/pinned wrong or the cable came loose ..so i highly recommend buying $100+ jumper harness or buy 3 cheap ebays til you get the right one to start your car
I have ?
Mine has a box with two clips next to ecu what do I do with it??
@@rosaliodeharo5180 is yours a type sh?
06:16 damn I didn't know they had 4 slot spots for the fog light. I have the cubby one.
Oh yea?
Had fuel pressure and pump priming, did the wiring now it cranks but no fuel. Thinking I’ll have to wire a switch for fuel pump now?
Thats weird check the wiring
@ swapped everything potentially involved (ECU, immo box, and ignition with matching key to all) and now I’ve got crank but no start. Sounds like fuel pump is on for longer than intended on startup sequence. Next I’m gonna rip out the compustar in hopes that’s what’s keeping it from running at this point. Will keep updating as I attack this shit.
If alarm removal doesn’t work, then I’ll be onto the P13 with Hondata
@ use the p13 with Hondata you cant use the original computer
@@Moneygrip I tried the immo By-pass, then reverted back to replacing every correlating component of the system. You insist that I cannot simply replace all of the components from one of my parts cars?
Kinda annoying that I have to go to a piggyback at least. At this point I’d almost rather save for a haltech
Okay tried it all it seems, looks like I’ll be converting to OBD1 if anyone has a P28 or P13 (preferably with an s300 v3)
Willing to ship to Vancouver Canada asap.
d u only do that when u dont hace the original key?
Can this be done on a 1998 Honda accord with a JDI ghost key push start system? Thanks
Beats me man different chassis and different system id have to have to know
1996-04 rl is the same way I hot a key made for 380$ the guy took the imobilizer and made a new key because my original key was I wish I saw this sooner
The dealer wants 2800 for a new modual
Dam you didn't have to cut the ignition switch wires all you had to do is by pass grey and blue wire from the immobilizer to send signal to the starter, I'm running a p28 ECU and use the HAmotorsports diagram and it worked great shot I'm even running a 4th gen ignition switch, unfortunately here in Nevada we have admissions so for a price of 99 bucks you can send out any ECU to them and they will remove the immobilizer with in the ECU this is for any one wanting to pass admissions and want to run stock, they will also show you how to by bas the immobilizer under the dash/steering wheel
Yea i did i had no power to my ecu until i did this
i did what the video said. the car now turns over but wont start. is my fuel pump still immobilized?
What ecu are you using
its a 2000 acura 3.5rl, tried getting an aftermarket repair manual like clymer or haynes, they dont make one. the immobilizer is the exact part that you showed in your video, just with different colour coded wires. i tried looking under the dash for the ecu, no luck so far. hope you can help, other than losing the one key i had, car is in good shape@@Moneygrip
@@JerryClancy-p2x cant use the stock ecu need to get hondata or stand alone
sounds expensive, thx anyway@@Moneygrip
@@JerryClancy-p2x sorry man
Hey man.. i was doing a manual swap from -97 auto to manual do i need to change the immoblizer too? I had manual ecu which has been changed already and i also have immoblizer from the manual car .... but that wont register the key right? The original immoblizer should work right... I didn't have any problems with the immoblizer with the car ....
Plz reply ASAP if possible thankyou
You should have just ran your stock automatic ecu. There's zero difference on a manual car
Correct.automatic ecu is completely different from manual ecu..youre still at 0(homebase) ..after the ecu manual swap your suppose to bypass the inmobilizer or heres the better option get rid of the obd2 ECUs and go p28 obd1 tuner friendly ecu that did not come from honda with inmobilizer ..92-95 hondas had 0 anti theft..the only thing that was anti theft was the felony charges of the USA that was related to stealing 😂
when i try to do this i get nothing at all.the starter doesnt go or anything
Is the fuse blown?
@@Moneygrip but when I remove it from the ecu ground is turns over but the moment I put it back it won't let the starter go is there a chance you have any other social media I can get a hold of you on?
does this only work with a obd1 ecu or can you do this with a stock ecu
Only with an obd1 computer swap
You can modify stock ecu to work.
@@ecurepairhow do you modify your stock ECU. I have been trying to figure this out for weeks. My car is stuck
This video was the whole answer to the question your asking..so lets say its year 1997 and you was stuck in the middle of no where but somehow you had youtube this is what you would do.now if your building a racecar.then what he just showed in the video you dont have todo allyou gotta do is get a p28 obd1 ecu throw it in the car and thats it ..p28 obd1 ecu does not care about a chipped key .. @@AndrewSmith-hs1pu
So this guys97 prelude is now pretty much a 88-95 civic
Will this work on a stock 2000 prelude without doing anything else?
Needs a odb1 computer or a link ecu like i run or hondata something that has no immobilizer in the ecu itself
Hey man the vid helped a lot, I had the same problem with having to bypass the immobilizer, but I had a push to start kit from JDI, if you use that and just connect the blue and grey wires together it works perfectly fine. I had to do this because I only had unprogrammed keys for my 01 prelude
Edit- autocorrect error
Took it for a test drive (granted I stalled a few times cause I’m new to driving stick) it started back up with no problem each time, the only thing I’m trying to trouble shoot is the missing key light that keeps blinking
Well did you keep the immobilizer box in place bc that failed on mine and thats why i had to do this whole thing the blue and grey only do the starter circuit
@@Moneygrip no I took it out, to put the push to start button in place where the ignition slot is
@paulmendez2409 is this with stock obd2 ecu? I am looking at buying a prelude that has NO keys so I want to get the push to start kit and jump the gray and blue wires to see if it will start. Do you also need the immobilizer bypass chip on the ecu or did it work simply only jumping the wires?
@@celbiiallegedly zip tying the key to the immobilizer to give it a continuous signal is the way. You will need to get a key programmed for it plus body keys. The dealer can do it for you once you have proof you own the car.
Holy shit. That worked 😆
Yep
I have a 1998 lude, same issue, do i have to change anything with the stock ecu?
Has to odb1 or stand alone
Iam still not quiet clear...how do I get a hold of this dude to give him $20 for private chat
Whats the problem
In my opinion, is the best car honda ever made that is nit easy to steal it
Sadly thieves think it’s just like a civic and it will crank with a screwdriver (the reason mine is down)
I did eveything as in the video i got it to crank but the crank died out does anyone have an idea as to why that is so now i have no crank but i could hear the fuel pump that’s abt it
What ecu is in the car?
Is this the only way to bypass it and does this account for the wheel lock?
Thats a separate thing
Does this only work with the OBD1?
Or stand alone
What’s stand alone? I’ve got a 99 prelude automatic and I tried this and it doesn’t work
@@BellaAllan0320 oooooo none that i know of. I run a link hc96x idk if it has an auto trans controller
Is that only for the s300? I have a chipped p28 and didn’t have to bypass anything it starts right up
My immobilizer failed completely even though i was running hondata it cut power to the ecu
@@Moneygrip that’s weird my immobilizer isn’t even hooked or bypassed
@@raymondrios9474 yea idk i tried doing it the way people said worked and it didnt work so i did it this way oh well
Does your still work? Mine just started happening. I have hondata s300 too and mine keeps kill the ecu power. Does the switch burn out? How much power u making
The car broke on the dyno was shooting for 700+ it made 570hp on 19lbs and hondata is hot garbage i threw mine out because it was dropping the voltage for the throttle position out the ecu failed along with my immobilizer failure
@@Moneygrip acg-s is that just for the immobilizer or its for something else
Would this work with OEM ECU?
No you need a stand alone or odb1 computer
anyone know if this will work on a 2002 civic
@@noahjgd9782 is it the same style box
why did you by pass it, you don't need to you are wrong, only time you would need to is if you lost your key and wanted to use the key from another car, but if you have your key still and just want to swap the ecu then go check my video out, there is a small board in the ecu you just swap that over tot eh new ecu, all the immobilizer box does is pair the key to the immobilizer then send a signal to the ecu where the immobilizer board then check they all match so just swapping that board to another ecu is all you need to do
@@philoffhistree let me spell it out for you. My immobilizer box completely failed and was blowing the fuse for the ecu. I did it out of necessity. So tell me how im wrong again. My kill switch works just fine
fuck yeah dude i’m gonna try this
It wont work with the stock prelude computer you need to convert it to an obd1 computer or a plug and play stand alone
@@Moneygrip damn guess i gotta buy one of those now
@@TheMudkipzGames does your green key light still come on in the dash?
@@Moneygrip i don’t believe so
@@Moneygrip i’ll have to check again in the morning
That does not work. I did your bypass and car won't start
You have another issue then
There is a company that will remove the immobilizer out of the ecu for like $100, and you only need to jump a wire and unplug the immobilizer. But hey if you found a better way, i say do it.
Which company is this?
??
Didnt you hear? 😂
The prelude ecu doesnt have an inmobilizer its a igntion switch box that stops current flow til it sees a key
Help it didnt work for me
Get an obd1 ecu
@@Moneygripwym
@@1kbryy are you still using a stock ecu? If so swap it to an obd1 one or a standalone
@@Moneygripya ob2 but i this what you did in the video and now my fuel pump not working so i got a new pump and then it still wont kick on
@@1kbryy did you wire it wrong?
I'm making 525whp
Your interpretation of the wiring diagram is so completely wrong it hurts.
Unplugging the immobilizer and tying the wires to the starter cut relay through in combination with an immo deleted ECU bypasses it
If all it did was cut power to the ECU you could just connect those wires together and it would be bypassed on any 5g Prelude and we all know that doesn't work.
Hows it wrong if it works 😂😂😂 lmaooo
@@Moneygrip just because it worked doesn't mean your explanation of the system is correct in any way. Your explanation of the system was completely incorrect and your wiring diagram interpretation is laughable.
The immo unit doesn't cut any power or ground to the ECM. Especially not ground.
Heh.. B-plug🤘
LMAOOOO
THANKS!...❤