In this video I will show you how to sharpen a dull bandsaw blade so it will cut better and faster than a new one.. The setup that I use makes it fast and easy.
Outstanding! As Knife Makers, we are now adding a mist system to our grinding wheels, to keep the steel cool, not disrupting the temper of the blade.... little messier, but worth it. I notice the tips of the teeth turning blue. At that point the original hardness has been decreased. A drip setup on the stone, may help keep the steel cool, thus making for a longer lasting blade. Just a suggestion and something to think about. Thanks for the video, Brian! I now have a new band saw blade sharpening project! Blessings! Hawk.
Thanks for the comment and a possible solution, Normally I am a little more gentle on the grind. but still some get blue when I am being careless, will try the drip system.
May be the difference of quite a few more cuts, Unless of coarse you just love sharpening blades! You taught me a lot! Lol! You taught me a lot, Brian! Thank You!!
-What grit is your wheel? Regarding the heat build up and the blueing of the teeth - would it help to have a slow speed grinder with an aluminum oxide wheel? These supposedly generate less heat. I wonder if you could rig this same concept up on a Tormek? It already has the water bath.
I think your suggestions are great. Slower speed would be a good idea. Not sure of the grit. It was one i found in a clearance bin. I banged and broke it. I think i will try a different one and put it on a 1750 motor.
Question: Can you sharpen the blade running (slowly) in your bandsaw by holding a grinding wheel against the blade? (I have done a treadmill conversion to my old Craftsman bandsaw, for speed control.... metals vs woods .... so I also have the capability to run it backwards against a grinding wheel, or even a stone). I have some old metal cutting blades that were dulled by it running too fast, and would love to resurrect them if possible.
Sorry I missed your question 2 years back. worth a try, just enough to hit the very tips, Trouble is it would make the top of the tip flat, changing the dynamics of how it cuts. May work on thin metal. If the tip has a flat spot on top, it will not allow the tooth to keep cutting, just skates along., maybe worse than a dull blade. just a plausible theory. proof will be in a experiment.
You could, and some people do that with a small rotary file, more difficult. The only part of the blade that cuts is the very tip, The gullet is only for collecting the sawdust, a lot can accumulate on thick piece of wood. Blades with few teeth cut faster as this area doesn't get clogged up. all you are trying to do is restore or make better the very tip. A sharpened blade cuts better that a factory one because they are just stamped out, I don't believe the teeth are ground out. If one is careful you can sharpen a blade a number of times before the gullet gets too small. Carbide tip table saw blades retain the tip sharpness, rip blades have fewer teeth and large gullets, Same principle. Conclusion, grinding the top to get a sharp tip is just easier and faster. There are a lot of teeth on a bandsaw blade, mine are 144 inches long, 4 teeth per inch, 576 teeth. one second per tooth 10 minutes possible
Should work even better, experiment, you can do it without the guard or tool rest I made, just touch the backside of each tooth to restore a sharp point. you can see it done with a regular grinder in this video ua-cam.com/video/UygEQ-079Ws/v-deo.html
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Mulțumesc! Foarte bine explicat, felicitări!
thank you for sharing.... im from Holland and we dont have this kind of snow anymore.... have fun
Outstanding!
As Knife Makers, we are now adding a mist system to our grinding wheels, to keep the steel cool, not disrupting the temper of the blade.... little messier, but worth it.
I notice the tips of the teeth turning blue. At that point the original hardness has been decreased. A drip setup on the stone, may help keep the steel cool, thus making for a longer lasting blade. Just a suggestion and something to think about.
Thanks for the video, Brian!
I now have a new band saw blade sharpening project!
Blessings!
Hawk.
Thanks for the comment and a possible solution, Normally I am a little more gentle on the grind. but still some get blue when I am being careless, will try the drip system.
May be the difference of quite a few more cuts, Unless of coarse you just love sharpening blades!
You taught me a lot! Lol!
You taught me a lot, Brian!
Thank You!!
Thanks for sharing. Very informative.
gefällt mir sehr gut, Sympatischer Mensch
Shoot fire that was great thank you sir very good
-What grit is your wheel? Regarding the heat build up and the blueing of the teeth - would it help to have a slow speed grinder with an aluminum oxide wheel? These supposedly generate less heat. I wonder if you could rig this same concept up on a Tormek? It already has the water bath.
I think your suggestions are great. Slower speed would be a good idea. Not sure of the grit. It was one i found in a clearance bin. I banged and broke it. I think i will try a different one and put it on a 1750 motor.
way better!
Question: Can you sharpen the blade running (slowly) in your bandsaw by holding a grinding wheel against the blade? (I have done a treadmill conversion to my old Craftsman bandsaw, for speed control.... metals vs woods .... so I also have the capability to run it backwards against a grinding wheel, or even a stone). I have some old metal cutting blades that were dulled by it running too fast, and would love to resurrect them if possible.
No.
Sure...once...
Sorry I missed your question 2 years back. worth a try, just enough to hit the very tips, Trouble is it would make the top of the tip flat, changing the dynamics of how it cuts. May work on thin metal. If the tip has a flat spot on top, it will not allow the tooth to keep cutting, just skates along., maybe worse than a dull blade. just a plausible theory. proof will be in a experiment.
Did you sharpen the back side ????
no, from what I have seen it is always the front side
So you make a great video but why not sharpen the face of the teeth like a power sharpener does?
You could, and some people do that with a small rotary file, more difficult. The only part of the blade that cuts is the very tip, The gullet is only for collecting the sawdust, a lot can accumulate on thick piece of wood. Blades with few teeth cut faster as this area doesn't get clogged up. all you are trying to do is restore or make better the very tip. A sharpened blade cuts better that a factory one because they are just stamped out, I don't believe the teeth are ground out. If one is careful you can sharpen a blade a number of times before the gullet gets too small. Carbide tip table saw blades retain the tip sharpness, rip blades have fewer teeth and large gullets, Same principle. Conclusion, grinding the top to get a sharp tip is just easier and faster. There are a lot of teeth on a bandsaw blade, mine are 144 inches long, 4 teeth per inch, 576 teeth. one second per tooth 10 minutes possible
Can I sharpen my blades on a CN wheel Brian?
Should work even better, experiment, you can do it without the guard or tool rest I made, just touch the backside of each tooth to restore a sharp point. you can see it done with a regular grinder in this video ua-cam.com/video/UygEQ-079Ws/v-deo.html
8:15 Next video: How to make a throat plate.
Thanks
Suman Mondal