Even though I was NOT the one talking in class (it was Bobby Cotton) and I had to stay after class, I am glad I did have to as that was a great trick to learn for the center drilling. However I will be totally PO'd for about a week for having to stay after class as it has smeared my polished reputation.
Mr. Pete, every young man has a favorite teacher from high school, myself included. I think it’s pretty neat that 40 years later I’ve found another teacher that matches him in wit and ability to get a lesson across. Thank you for all the hard work you do to make these videos both educational and entertaining. A rare talent and one that I appreciate greatly.
I doubt I will ever make this, but I am still learning so many things by watching the series. You have so much good information to share. I'm not a big fan of big tech companies ruling the planet, but I am grateful that UA-cam will be hosting these videos long after both of us are food for worms. Keep sharing what you know! And keep being a bit (or a lot?) cantankerous! Your personality and demeanor, even your alter ego, is one of the reasons I love learning from you. Your former classroom students should feel honored to have had you as a teacher.
Brilliant as always Mr Pete!!! In many ways little dodges and how-tos such as centring tapped holes through two surfaces and especially the jig for centring a hole down a narrow threaded shaft are the most important lessons to learn. Thank you so much for passing these on!
This series will be great for anyone wanting a crash course in lots of operations and techniques. Whether they build the actual gear cutter or not. I especially like the hole centering doo dad.
I need to build a spider for my lathe and couldn't figure out a good way to make brass tipped screws. That trick you showed at the end looks like a great solution. Thank you for that! Have a great Sunday
Premo idea on the end drilling for the brass insert. I use the match drill method all the time. Can't miss .I don't want to go home either, I still have a half cup of coffee left.Great stuff,as always.
As always you have done a great video and something that is useful in the workshop. Good to see that you are still making videos, have been enjoying your work for many years.
Very enjoyable project Mr. Pete. You reminded me of a story about "idiot proofing": Every time someone screwed something up in the facility I worked at the owner would tell us in maintenance to "idiot-proof it so it won't happen again". One day I asked him; "who keeps hiring bigger idiots"? He stomped away angrily but quit asking us to idiot proof stuff.😂
Lyle - Glad I stayed after school. I'm going to second Alfonse's comment - coupling nut idea is great. I'm designing a dial indicator holder to measure carriage movement on my lathe, combining some different ideas/designs that I've seen. Two things i had to figure out how to do you presented good ideas on today. Since I have a mill I will never make this gear cutting fixture but I always watch all the videos. Two new ideas and problems solved. This 73 year old retired engineer has to keep learning. Thanks.
I've often wondered what it would have been like to have Mr Pete as a teacher! And now I'm on the other side of the Atlantic wondering about sharing Egg Sandwiches and Coca Cola. Thanks
Thank you Mr Pete. I liked the whole thing but I especially like the way you solved the problem of drilling the knob. I'm not sure what I did, but I had to stay after. My mom said "that's ok.... You can get into mischief next week to make up for it". Have a great week.
I love your videos!! It's amazing, I happened to watch some of your very early videos and you have brightened your demeanor so much! You are like a fine wine! You just get better and better!! I wish I had seen that extra credit many years ago.
One of your best videos Mr Pete, very informative, very funny, well paced, well filmed. I learned a lot and enjoyed the experience, what more can a man wnat?
I have used the companion method of mating parts for years and there is nothing better for the home gamer. The coupling nut trick is a new one on me. Keep 'em coming Mr. Pete.
I'm glad I stuck around for the extra credit. I'm not sure I will need such a jug but it would sure be handy if I did, Great video Mr. Pete, first channel I watch when checking into You Tube if there is something new on.
Your videos are just perfect. Just like being back in school learning a trade again. I often use the tips and tricks you provide when I'm machining something on my little Boxford lathe (Southbend model A clone) Greetings from Denmark.
I really like the tip for installing the brass plug in the locking knob. Thanks for sharing that idea. My dad used to work at Fisher Body in Baltimore. He learned from other employees about a drill stop that was kinda available there. Employees would use a door lock button that was installed on the inside of the door next to the side glass. They were designed to be put on what was either an 8-33 threaded lock rod protruding through the window garnish molding. They would drill from the bottom through the top of the button exposing only the length needed for repeat holes.This button also protected the surrounding metal from drill damage. Of course your range of bits was limited with this method, the button shaft was 3/8". Since Fisher Body became Eastern Aircraft during the war, it is possible this is a carryover from drilling aluminum sheet and using what was available during those years. Now, these buttons sell for about $8.00 a piece and newer models went to all plastic which didn't work as well as the earlier ones. My dad used to have at least one drill bit in the basement with a lock button on it for working around the house. He never owned a drill with a chuck that had greater than 1/4" capacity.
On drilling and tapping those 4 holes. I would have left the setup in place until the job was done. The clearance hole could be drilled with the quill stop just into the aluminum and would be a 1/2 to 1 thread bevel. With the setup undisturbed then an endmill could be used for the counterbore positioned with the DRO. And tapping is much easier with a spring loaded tap follower (always the first project for a new machinist) mounted in the quill.
Such a simple solution to drilling center of a threaded rod. Glad I stayed after…even though I was wasn’t the problem. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
Not only very instructional but also very entertaining video. I must admit I not only miss out too often from class but also from my homework. Wich is even worse.
I'm going to make one of these but modify one end to fit my dividing head and set it in my vise on my mill and my lathe to make setup easier and most of my gears will be one of each size . I'm really enjoying this !! Thank you !
Lyle, I took have a small collection of knobs. I'm replenishing mine as I sold a bunch at the Thresherman's Reunion at a local historical society flea market. I have both sae and metric. I've got a couple trays full of them. My first year at the flea market, a guy said he lost the seat knob from his riding mower. I'm glad I had what he needed.
Lotsa neat tricks Mr. Pete! However... you have taught us many times to use the mill (not powered) and a spring tap guide to tap holes! I.E. tap the square piece while it was still in the vise.
I stayed after class to see how close my hack was to your ( *far more elegant & accurate* ) solution. I used a coupling nut as you did but I chinced with a close fitting scrap box bushing. Recently, I had to drill the centers of my old Tundra 2000 wiper posts. It's the same wiper transmission that the old girl came with. They were frozen dry and I didn't want it to happen again. The center drilling was needed to create grease channels for future lubing. BTW, the coupling nut also serves as the grease gun adapter. I either pressed or JB Welded a Zerts grease fitting to it. Pete, thinking back on this I think I was being very optimistic if you get my drift. Hell, I'm damn near as old as you! 🤔 Wakodahatchee Chris
This is a great project and set of teaching videos! I wonder if 3D printing a plastic gear (or index wheel) and transferring a gear to metal using this jig would work. That might be a relatively inexpensive metal gear making technique for those lacking a rotary table or dividing head.
I have a Lufkin wiggler set. I got it after finding a problem seeing a normal edge finder. I had to speed up the edge finder to see it move, at my normal speed I wouldn't see it move. So I bought a Lufkin wiggler.. it has 2 of those ball with pointers. A larger and a smaller .. I do like the wiggler, it's much easier to see it go off. And it also reaches further down or around a larger round.
I like your drilling fixture for the threaded shaft. Simple, trick, but effective. I also like your drill set up for matching hole centers. I was taught standard bolt hole clearance for multiple fasteners when in drafting 101. Looking that hole clearance up for a four bolt hole of pattern would be extra safety. I use variations of your process successfully all the time, but keying orientation as you showed is likely necessary without the extra bolt clearance. I have used the drill counter bore method, but since you have the milling machine already set up, squaring the counter drilled hole bottom with an end mill would be an improvement (when lacking a counter bore). I am interested in what you plan for using for your master indexing gear since the SB gears you plan to remake are so trashed. The climb/conventional mill slot size and finish issue might be safely improved by a skim pass with the same tool and only stepped over enough for clearance. I wonder why the drawing calls out for square slot ends? That seems unnecessary.
Even trashed gears can be used for indexing as long as the wear is even. Also the wider the indexing pin the more the wear variation is averaged out. But any gear with the right number of teeth (or an even multiple thereof) can be used for indexing.
Thanks for this interesting serie of videos. No drawings needed just to pick up the idea and "do it my way", and have fun. Smart jigg for drilling a hole in a bolt. But.... If You can clamp that long 6 sided nut in the vise wouldn't it be possible to find the center a drill the bolt without the little drill guide? Assume a mill and DRO is at hand.
Your comment about the bull's a$$ during blow fly season cracked me up. My dad used to say when something was tight - it's tighter than a Crab's a$$, and that's water tight.
Another option for the drill pattern is to use your edge finder inside the hole to find the center of the bore and just move equal distances around the bore for the drill center diameter, or of course use the drill hole pattern on the DRO. Yes, edge finders can find the center of bores and holes. This would also allow you to make quite precise drill patterns if you do not assemble the parts for drilling and drill them separately.
Hi Mr.Pete. Thank you so much for all of your videos. I've learned so much from you and truly appreciate you. My question doesn't have anything to do with this video series but I figured with the amount of comments you get the newer videos probably get the most of your attention (kinda sneaky ony part and apologize in advance). Also I don't think you've made a video regarding my questions that I could comment on. Can you please make a video on setting up and using a centering scope?
@@mrpete222 dang I was afraid of that. Well maybe if you ever pick one up at one of the many auctions you attend you'll then make a video. Thanks for responding 🙂
I also made a Atlas Gear Cutting Fixture. It worked great to make several gears. I came up with a indexing method of using a aluminum disk from a old hard drive with lines on printed on label paper attached to it and a pointer. It is documented on the Machinist Web forum under the title of Making a Atlas Gear Cutting Attachment. One issue with the drawing is if making smaller gears you will need the collar on the end of the shaft to be smaller in diameter and longer than is on the print. Otherwise, the gear cutter will hit the collar and possible the end of the main body of the fixture.
Very interesting. Originally I was going to show some alternate ways of index figure including 3-D printed discs, and a few other ideas. I already finished a two video series on cutting and gear. It worked quite well. The videos will not be published for about a month and finally, I did cut a groove in the main body to allow for the interference on smaller gears
@@mrpete222 Didn't think about cutting a groove in the main body. The gear that I had issue's with was a 20T one on the reversing tumbler. The miner diameter was 1.125 and the collar in the drawing is 1.250 so I just made the collar longer and smaller diameter. The indexing does work good using worn gears as the master also. Also on drilling the 1" hole in the guide slide I did do that on the lathe in the 4 jaw chuck. I kept the length long until after I drilled and bored it so I could hold it with all 4 jaws.
Why does the brass piece have to be set into the knob screw? Wouldn't a little pellet just dropped in the hole loosely work fine, as long as the knob is not removed? Great series, Mr. Pete, thanks.
The soft brass will deform and stick in the threads. If you ever have to remove it, you'll wish you had done this. I'm working on a taper attachment for a Logan lathe. It uses a dovetail spigot like the South Bend for the compound. It has pins that lock on the angle. I wanted to add that brass tip to the set screws that hold them. Perfect timing to see how to get that done. The old pins were deformed by the hardened screws and I had to drill them out. Messy job.
I expect that this series will allow ‘fool’ proof gear cutting on a mill without a dividing head as I only need one or two gears but they need to be exact copies of the Enco gear train. Even proficient fools can skip a tooth and go back without counting holes in an index plate. Turning the blank can be done without consulting the handbook for OD, PD, CP and so on.
These are nice, well delivered Utube short course channel for students to follow and they get to make something useful as well... I might have drilled & tapped for a locating screw between the aluminium boss and the hot rolled section... ☹🇬🇧
I have never cut a slot with a satisfactory finish for the reason you described, but you gave me an idea that might help. Suppose after cutting the 11/32 slot you used the same cutter to enlarge the slot one side at a time?
beyond this project would be a gear cutting jig made for use in the shaper. comparing results between that and mill cut gears on the optical comparitor might prove interesting. it's said that the action of rolling the blank as it goes through the cut gives the gear teeth a true involute form
Re counterboring with a drill but needing a flat bottom. I measured the depth of the drill cutting edge, swapped out the drill bit for an end mill and took it down that far. Extra steps but it worked.
I love it! "Go home and tell mom...." I'm looking for those newer prints and not finding them. I dug all over My Heap and no joy. Will they eventually head over there? Thanks Professor Pete. Very enjoyable. PS is that the old 1920's Coca Cola? With the fo' sho' cocoa in it??? 😉
On the coupling nut drill jig. I would have cut the bolt very short then put the coupling nut the the 3 jaw, drilled out a thread or two so the bolt would bottom out on the head and then drill the guide hole. The coupling nut is much more secure in the chuck than a short piece of bolt. The intact bolt won't get stuck in the coupling nut and the head of the bolt leaves a longer guide hole which makes drilling easier.
It’s funny how people think differently. I don’t like using cold rolled because of the warping. It’s true that HRS doesn’t have finished surfaces from the mill, but CRS isn’t accurate either. Good idea about drilling that hole in the screw. I hadn’t thought of that. I’m going to steal the idea for my own use. Don’t tell anybody.
Another trick to prevent damage from bolts and setscrews. On cup point set screws fill the little cup with silver solder. This also works on bolt ends but not quite as easy since there’s no cup to fill.
Even though I was NOT the one talking in class (it was Bobby Cotton) and I had to stay after class, I am glad I did have to as that was a great trick to learn for the center drilling. However I will be totally PO'd for about a week for having to stay after class as it has smeared my polished reputation.
lol
The coupling nut drill centering jig at the end is absolutely genius!
😀
Attendance should be mandatory.
@@BMGRDNRJJ I completely concur!
Did you notice the benefit of being in the bad boys group? Talk about negative reinforcement - that tip is worth the whole series! 😉
Agreed!
Mr Pete you are the greatest shop teacher ever. Too bad they don't teach this in school any more.
Thanks very much
Great project I will be following to the end. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I am a 71-year-old machinist and I learned two things from you today that’s pretty damn good.
👍👍👍
Mr. Pete, every young man has a favorite teacher from high school, myself included. I think it’s pretty neat that 40 years later I’ve found another teacher that matches him in wit and ability to get a lesson across. Thank you for all the hard work you do to make these videos both educational and entertaining. A rare talent and one that I appreciate greatly.
👍👍👍😀😀😀
I doubt I will ever make this, but I am still learning so many things by watching the series. You have so much good information to share. I'm not a big fan of big tech companies ruling the planet, but I am grateful that UA-cam will be hosting these videos long after both of us are food for worms. Keep sharing what you know! And keep being a bit (or a lot?) cantankerous! Your personality and demeanor, even your alter ego, is one of the reasons I love learning from you. Your former classroom students should feel honored to have had you as a teacher.
Thank you very much for those kind words
I completely concur!
Brilliant as always Mr Pete!!!
In many ways little dodges and how-tos such as centring tapped holes through two surfaces and especially the jig for centring a hole down a narrow threaded shaft are the most important lessons to learn. Thank you so much for passing these on!
Thanks 👍
This series will be great for anyone wanting a crash course in lots of operations and techniques. Whether they build the actual gear cutter or not. I especially like the hole centering doo dad.
👍👍
I need to build a spider for my lathe and couldn't figure out a good way to make brass tipped screws. That trick you showed at the end looks like a great solution. Thank you for that! Have a great Sunday
Thank you for your service Mr Pete 🤓
👍👍
Great session Mr Pete. My Mom is really upset I had to stay late & miss my bus. She’ll call the principal tomorrow. John
Sounds like what I experienced hundreds of times
Thank you for the video! I never would have thought of that tip for the brass tip.
Premo idea on the end drilling for the brass insert. I use the match drill method all the time. Can't miss .I don't want to go home either, I still have a half cup of coffee left.Great stuff,as always.
👍👍
It's looking great and I love that jig you made to drill out that knob, that was brilliant!
I'm glad I was bad and had to stay after class; that centering technique is great!
😀😀
As always you have done a great video and something that is useful in the workshop. Good to see that you are still making videos, have been enjoying your work for many years.
Thanks 👍
Very enjoyable project Mr. Pete.
You reminded me of a story about "idiot proofing": Every time someone screwed something up in the facility I worked at the owner would tell us in maintenance to "idiot-proof it so it won't happen again". One day I asked him; "who keeps hiring bigger idiots"? He stomped away angrily but quit asking us to idiot proof stuff.😂
lol
This is a great series Lyle.
LOL I just got through with two fried egg sammiches while watching you.
Thanks Mr. Pete.
Regards,
Duck
Lyle - Glad I stayed after school. I'm going to second Alfonse's comment - coupling nut idea is great. I'm designing a dial indicator holder to measure carriage movement on my lathe, combining some different ideas/designs that I've seen. Two things i had to figure out how to do you presented good ideas on today. Since I have a mill I will never make this gear cutting fixture but I always watch all the videos. Two new ideas and problems solved. This 73 year old retired engineer has to keep learning. Thanks.
👍👍
I've often wondered what it would have been like to have Mr Pete as a teacher! And now I'm on the other side of the Atlantic wondering about sharing Egg Sandwiches and Coca Cola. Thanks
Thanks for another great video. The extra credit was worth it. Thanks for the video again Mr. Pete.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you Mr Pete. I liked the whole thing but I especially like the way you solved the problem of drilling the knob. I'm not sure what I did, but I had to stay after. My mom said "that's ok.... You can get into mischief next week to make up for it". Have a great week.
I enjoy all the tips you provide. The one for inserting brass rod in bolts was great! Thanks!
Glad to help
Very good. He just keeps going.
Great tip! Love your videos, best shop teacher ever!
Wow, thanks!
I love your videos!! It's amazing, I happened to watch some of your very early videos and you have brightened your demeanor so much! You are like a fine wine! You just get better and better!! I wish I had seen that extra credit many years ago.
Thank you so much!!
Great video! Loved your energy! Nice tip on drilling in the center of threaded component.
One of your best videos Mr Pete, very informative, very funny, well paced, well filmed. I learned a lot and enjoyed the experience, what more can a man wnat?
Many thanks!
I have used the companion method of mating parts for years and there is nothing better for the home gamer. The coupling nut trick is a new one on me. Keep 'em coming Mr. Pete.
Thanks
Learn something every time!!
Thank you
I'm glad I stuck around for the extra credit. I'm not sure I will need such a jug but it would sure be handy if I did, Great video Mr. Pete, first channel I watch when checking into You Tube if there is something new on.
Thanks 👍
This series is SO informative Mr Pete, thank you very much indeed for sharing your expertise!
I was so much trouble. They didn't want me to stay after. Thank you Mr. Pete.
lol
Great tip and i love the tool advertisement at the end,
Thanks 👍
Your videos are just perfect. Just like being back in school learning a trade again. I often use the tips and tricks you provide when I'm machining something on my little Boxford lathe (Southbend model A clone)
Greetings from Denmark.
Great to hear!
I have one also ex English army from a woodworker in England
Loved the extra credit. Thanks for the tip; it will be very useful to me.
I really like the tip for installing the brass plug in the locking knob. Thanks for sharing that idea.
My dad used to work at Fisher Body in Baltimore. He learned from other employees about a drill stop that was kinda available there. Employees would use a door lock button that was installed on the inside of the door next to the side glass. They were designed to be put on what was either an 8-33 threaded lock rod protruding through the window garnish molding. They would drill from the bottom through the top of the button exposing only the length needed for repeat holes.This button also protected the surrounding metal from drill damage. Of course your range of bits was limited with this method, the button shaft was 3/8". Since Fisher Body became Eastern Aircraft during the war, it is possible this is a carryover from drilling aluminum sheet and using what was available during those years. Now, these buttons sell for about $8.00 a piece and newer models went to all plastic which didn't work as well as the earlier ones. My dad used to have at least one drill bit in the basement with a lock button on it for working around the house. He never owned a drill with a chuck that had greater than 1/4" capacity.
Thank you, that is really a neat story
On drilling and tapping those 4 holes. I would have left the setup in place until the job was done. The clearance hole could be drilled with the quill stop just into the aluminum and would be a 1/2 to 1 thread bevel. With the setup undisturbed then an endmill could be used for the counterbore positioned with the DRO. And tapping is much easier with a spring loaded tap follower (always the first project for a new machinist) mounted in the quill.
I even finished the extra credit. All work was well done with great craftsmanship.😊😊😊😊😊😊
Good tip on drilling the knob. Always learn from & enjoy your vid's.
Such a simple solution to drilling center of a threaded rod. Glad I stayed after…even though I was wasn’t the problem. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
Mr Pete I always love to watch you in the shop.I always learn a tip or 2 from you...Thank you for sharing.....
Absolutely brilliant idea, I have to give the coupling nut jig a try! Thanks so much for sharing and take care!!
Have fun!
Your "alter ego" voice gagged me upp. Keep it up Pete!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for all the great tips Mr. Pete yo uare the best teacher a student could have.
Wow, thanks
Love that alter ego , funny stuff . Always learn from your videos
Glad you enjoyed it
Mr. Pete must have been a real hit at faculty meetings.
Thank you for continuing the build Mr. Pete 🥳
Not only very instructional but also very entertaining video.
I must admit I not only miss out too often from class but also from my homework. Wich is even worse.
Come on over. We can study the homework at my house. Shop's open and the way oil smells amazing.
Ahh, an egg sandwich...
Liked the way you drilled those four holes.
Great tips Pete, I'm in the process of building me one of those..
👍👍👍👍
I'm going to make one of these but modify one end to fit my dividing head and set it in my vise on my mill and my lathe to make setup easier and most of my gears will be one of each size . I'm really enjoying this !! Thank you !
Cool idea
awesome tip on getting that hold centered up on the knob. will deff have to try to remember that tip
The whole thing is very interesting and very appreciated.Wait for part 3.
Lyle, I took have a small collection of knobs. I'm replenishing mine as I sold a bunch at the Thresherman's Reunion at a local historical society flea market. I have both sae and metric. I've got a couple trays full of them. My first year at the flea market, a guy said he lost the seat knob from his riding mower. I'm glad I had what he needed.
👍👍👍
You tube unsubscribed me without my knowledge kinda irritating. I look forward to your videos Mr pete thanks for all you do.
Welcome back! I wonder if a lot of people are being unsubscribe and that is why my viewership is so bad?
I don't have telegram Mr pete do I need to go there?
Very good video.
thank you Mr Pete
well done Mr Pete. I have 2 of those wigglers one is a Lufkin and the other is a Starrett. thanks
Awesome tip at the end. Another classic example of, "why didn't I think of that?"
Glad you liked it!
Lotsa neat tricks Mr. Pete! However... you have taught us many times to use the mill (not powered) and a spring tap guide to tap holes! I.E. tap the square piece while it was still in the vise.
I stayed after class to see how close my hack was to your ( *far more elegant & accurate* ) solution. I used a coupling nut as you did but I chinced with a close fitting scrap box bushing. Recently, I had to drill the centers of my old Tundra 2000 wiper posts. It's the same wiper transmission that the old girl came with. They were frozen dry and I didn't want it to happen again. The center drilling was needed to create grease channels for future lubing. BTW, the coupling nut also serves as the grease gun adapter. I either pressed or JB Welded a Zerts grease fitting to it.
Pete, thinking back on this I think I was being very optimistic if you get my drift. Hell, I'm damn near as old as you! 🤔
Wakodahatchee Chris
😀😀😀
This is a great project and set of teaching videos! I wonder if 3D printing a plastic gear (or index wheel) and transferring a gear to metal using this jig would work. That might be a relatively inexpensive metal gear making technique for those lacking a rotary table or dividing head.
This stuff where you are making chips is the best.
Mr. Pete hopped up on Coca-Cola is the best Mr. Pete.
That is a good tip for drilling a hole in the end of a bolt. Don’t through it away just put it back with the rest of the coupling nuts.😊
How did you know that I have a whole drawer of them?
@@mrpete222 :>D
I have a Lufkin wiggler set. I got it after finding a problem seeing a normal edge finder. I had to speed up the edge finder to see it move, at my normal speed I wouldn't see it move. So I bought a Lufkin wiggler.. it has 2 of those ball with pointers. A larger and a smaller .. I do like the wiggler, it's much easier to see it go off. And it also reaches further down or around a larger round.
👍👍
I like your drilling fixture for the threaded shaft. Simple, trick, but effective.
I also like your drill set up for matching hole centers. I was taught standard bolt hole clearance for multiple fasteners when in drafting 101. Looking that hole clearance up for a four bolt hole of pattern would be extra safety. I use variations of your process successfully all the time, but keying orientation as you showed is likely necessary without the extra bolt clearance.
I have used the drill counter bore method, but since you have the milling machine already set up, squaring the counter drilled hole bottom with an end mill would be an improvement (when lacking a counter bore).
I am interested in what you plan for using for your master indexing gear since the SB gears you plan to remake are so trashed.
The climb/conventional mill slot size and finish issue might be safely improved by a skim pass with the same tool and only stepped over enough for clearance. I wonder why the drawing calls out for square slot ends? That seems unnecessary.
Hello Paul. Glad you like the video.
Even trashed gears can be used for indexing as long as the wear is even. Also the wider the indexing pin the more the wear variation is averaged out. But any gear with the right number of teeth (or an even multiple thereof) can be used for indexing.
Another excellent video, thank you
I like the brass insert Drill jig idea Thanks for the video
Du har mycket intresanta avsnitt,tack och fortsätt!
28:09 this is what Joe Pie calls 'shop gems' lol. Machinist wisdom you don't often come across
Awesome tip at the end!!! Thank You!!!
Like the method of drilling the hole centered in the stud.
Thanks for sharing
At 0:11 Yay! Mr Pete in 5 or maybe 6 part stereo.
Thanks for this interesting serie of videos. No drawings needed just to pick up the idea and "do it my way", and have fun.
Smart jigg for drilling a hole in a bolt. But.... If You can clamp that long 6 sided nut in the vise wouldn't it be possible to find the center a drill the bolt without the little drill guide? Assume a mill and DRO is at hand.
Entertaining video and thank you. Staying late to watch how you center drill that knob.
Your comment about the bull's a$$ during blow fly season cracked me up.
My dad used to say when something was tight - it's tighter than a Crab's a$$, and that's water tight.
lol
Another option for the drill pattern is to use your edge finder inside the hole to find the center of the bore and just move equal distances around the bore for the drill center diameter, or of course use the drill hole pattern on the DRO. Yes, edge finders can find the center of bores and holes. This would also allow you to make quite precise drill patterns if you do not assemble the parts for drilling and drill them separately.
Excellent content
Much appreciated
Hi Mr.Pete. Thank you so much for all of your videos. I've learned so much from you and truly appreciate you. My question doesn't have anything to do with this video series but I figured with the amount of comments you get the newer videos probably get the most of your attention (kinda sneaky ony part and apologize in advance). Also I don't think you've made a video regarding my questions that I could comment on. Can you please make a video on setting up and using a centering scope?
I do not have one
@@mrpete222 dang I was afraid of that. Well maybe if you ever pick one up at one of the many auctions you attend you'll then make a video. Thanks for responding 🙂
I also made a Atlas Gear Cutting Fixture. It worked great to make several gears. I came up with a indexing method of using a aluminum disk from a old hard drive with lines on printed on label paper attached to it and a pointer. It is documented on the Machinist Web forum under the title of Making a Atlas Gear Cutting Attachment. One issue with the drawing is if making smaller gears you will need the collar on the end of the shaft to be smaller in diameter and longer than is on the print. Otherwise, the gear cutter will hit the collar and possible the end of the main body of the fixture.
Very interesting. Originally I was going to show some alternate ways of index figure including 3-D printed discs, and a few other ideas. I already finished a two video series on cutting and gear. It worked quite well. The videos will not be published for about a month and finally, I did cut a groove in the main body to allow for the interference on smaller gears
@@mrpete222 Didn't think about cutting a groove in the main body. The gear that I had issue's with was a 20T one on the reversing tumbler. The miner diameter was 1.125 and the collar in the drawing is 1.250 so I just made the collar longer and smaller diameter. The indexing does work good using worn gears as the master also. Also on drilling the 1" hole in the guide slide I did do that on the lathe in the 4 jaw chuck. I kept the length long until after I drilled and bored it so I could hold it with all 4 jaws.
That coupling nut centering trick is slicker than eels in a bucket of snot.
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Why does the brass piece have to be set into the knob screw? Wouldn't a little pellet just dropped in the hole loosely work fine, as long as the knob is not removed? Great series, Mr. Pete, thanks.
The soft brass will deform and stick in the threads. If you ever have to remove it, you'll wish you had done this.
I'm working on a taper attachment for a Logan lathe. It uses a dovetail spigot like the South Bend for the compound. It has pins that lock on the angle. I wanted to add that brass tip to the set screws that hold them. Perfect timing to see how to get that done. The old pins were deformed by the hardened screws and I had to drill them out. Messy job.
I was wondering how you were going to drill the brass dogpiont on center. That was a clever idea. I will have to remember it.
With the added reach on the lathe!maybe a reduction gear train for your bandsaw
I expect that this series will allow ‘fool’ proof gear cutting on a mill without a dividing head as I only need one or two gears but they need to be exact copies of the Enco gear train. Even proficient fools can skip a tooth and go back without counting holes in an index plate. Turning the blank can be done without consulting the handbook for OD, PD, CP and so on.
These are nice, well delivered Utube short course channel for students to follow and they get to make something useful as well...
I might have drilled & tapped for a locating screw between the aluminium boss and the hot rolled section...
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I have never cut a slot with a satisfactory finish for the reason you described, but you gave me an idea that might help. Suppose after cutting the 11/32 slot you used the same cutter to enlarge the slot one side at a time?
Yes, that would work. But it is more difficult to machine the slot to an accurate dimension.
beyond this project would be a gear cutting jig made for use in the shaper. comparing results between that and mill cut gears on the optical comparitor might prove interesting. it's said that the action of rolling the blank as it goes through the cut gives the gear teeth a true involute form
Re counterboring with a drill but needing a flat bottom.
I measured the depth of the drill cutting edge, swapped out the drill bit for an end mill and took it down that far. Extra steps but it worked.
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Thanks for the video
I love it! "Go home and tell mom...." I'm looking for those newer prints and not finding them. I dug all over My Heap and no joy. Will they eventually head over there? Thanks Professor Pete. Very enjoyable. PS is that the old 1920's Coca Cola? With the fo' sho' cocoa in it??? 😉
Yes, I am working on it. I have been in touch with him.
@@mrpete222 Thank you!
I use springs between the parallels to hold them in place.
Great idea
On the coupling nut drill jig. I would have cut the bolt very short then put the coupling nut the the 3 jaw, drilled out a thread or two so the bolt would bottom out on the head and then drill the guide hole. The coupling nut is much more secure in the chuck than a short piece of bolt. The intact bolt won't get stuck in the coupling nut and the head of the bolt leaves a longer guide hole which makes drilling easier.
Excellent refinement to an already good idea.👍
It’s funny how people think differently. I don’t like using cold rolled because of the warping. It’s true that HRS doesn’t have finished surfaces from the mill, but CRS isn’t accurate either. Good idea about drilling that hole in the screw. I hadn’t thought of that. I’m going to steal the idea for my own use. Don’t tell anybody.
I agree that cold rolled is problematic.
Another trick to prevent damage from bolts and setscrews. On cup point set screws fill the little cup with silver solder. This also works on bolt ends but not quite as easy since there’s no cup to fill.
This whole project ie turning out slicker than owl snot.