Can you elaborate on the c taper hack? Thanks! Also about the ticking, I've read that they usually use low power op amps. Like tl022 or maybe try using tl062.
Yes, I've read this also. In fact when I was filming I did talk about that as a possible 4th tweak if the others hadn't completely cured the ticking. (I cut it out in the edit though.) It makes sense, since a low current op amp also usually has a very modest slew rate, so it can't physically source the current in the first place, plus its output is slower to shift each time it flips. I did actually try an LT1475 (ultra low current device) that I found, but since it was a true rail to rail, the tremolo sound was significantly altered, since the LEDs were turning on a bit brighter. To make another op amp work would have meant breadboarding the circuit again, and the LM358 was just fine. It has a fairly modest current draw and slew rate anyway. FWIW, getting the LEDs to match also took some tinkering. I really wanted to use a 3mm as the status light, to match the other lolly tin pedals. I probably should have just started with a matching pair of 3mm LEDs and made the isolator with one of them. Thanks for watching my channel!
Oh, and the pot hack was simply that I needed a C50k (reverse audio taper), but only had a dual gang C100k. By wiring the two gangs in parallel, a C50k was achieved. IOW, the two left lugs were joined, the two wipers were joined and the two right hand lugs were joined. In this situation, the taper stays the same. FWIW, I have an old video with some other pot hacks... ua-cam.com/video/iCUOVOOc5WY/v-deo.html
My trem pedal had these out in the open. So I took electrical tape and covered them all and it actually made quite a difference in how the thing sounds.
Well the clean boost was for sure a response to the JHS Solo Boost, although I'd always had a nice clean boost pedal on the list of projects for the channel. This one not at all, just a coincidence. I really love the tremolo effect, and was always going to have one on my lolly tin pedal board. Thanks for your kind words, Joe. Glad you like my content.
Thanks mate. I'm glad you like my stuff. I think you'd have to find a good consistent source of opto isolators. The LDRs i bought did vary quite a bit. Then batch test them and adjust the circuit from there or create a trimmer circuit and alignment procedure for consistency. Also I never tested or even simulated the circuit at 18v for example. I doubt the oscillator would work as intended with 18v. So a zener or reg or something would be need for the pedal to be idiot proof.
I can suggest to use separate grounds for generator and audio path, especially if wave control has opto-coupler. This will reduce dramatically leaking of generator frequency into audio path. Also adding a high path filter on the end stage of U1 with frequency roll-off around 50-100Hz will greatly reduce that generator frequency sound at amplifier side.
Hi, I've tried building this tremolo from ur schematic, and even though i created separate grounds etc. this ticking sound is still very present. I really don't know what should could I do about it. Is there anyone who could help?
Can you elaborate on the c taper hack? Thanks!
Also about the ticking, I've read that they usually use low power op amps. Like tl022 or maybe try using tl062.
Yes, I've read this also. In fact when I was filming I did talk about that as a possible 4th tweak if the others hadn't completely cured the ticking. (I cut it out in the edit though.) It makes sense, since a low current op amp also usually has a very modest slew rate, so it can't physically source the current in the first place, plus its output is slower to shift each time it flips. I did actually try an LT1475 (ultra low current device) that I found, but since it was a true rail to rail, the tremolo sound was significantly altered, since the LEDs were turning on a bit brighter. To make another op amp work would have meant breadboarding the circuit again, and the LM358 was just fine. It has a fairly modest current draw and slew rate anyway.
FWIW, getting the LEDs to match also took some tinkering. I really wanted to use a 3mm as the status light, to match the other lolly tin pedals. I probably should have just started with a matching pair of 3mm LEDs and made the isolator with one of them. Thanks for watching my channel!
Oh, and the pot hack was simply that I needed a C50k (reverse audio taper), but only had a dual gang C100k. By wiring the two gangs in parallel, a C50k was achieved. IOW, the two left lugs were joined, the two wipers were joined and the two right hand lugs were joined. In this situation, the taper stays the same. FWIW, I have an old video with some other pot hacks... ua-cam.com/video/iCUOVOOc5WY/v-deo.html
Very inspirational brother I like the way you're thinking on that reverse approach
My trem pedal had these out in the open. So I took electrical tape and covered them all and it actually made quite a difference in how the thing sounds.
Great project, Rob. Many thanks!
Thanks Raymond. I'm glad you liked it. The pedal sounds really nice. I'm pleased with it for sure...
Not sure if you're intentionally following JHS content with how the mentioned circuits are sometimes made, but this is two in a row. Great build Rob
Well the clean boost was for sure a response to the JHS Solo Boost, although I'd always had a nice clean boost pedal on the list of projects for the channel. This one not at all, just a coincidence. I really love the tremolo effect, and was always going to have one on my lolly tin pedal board. Thanks for your kind words, Joe. Glad you like my content.
Well done, again ! Very nice ! Congratulations
:)
This is such high quality content! Love your videos!
What would it take to make it commercial grade?
Thanks mate. I'm glad you like my stuff. I think you'd have to find a good consistent source of opto isolators. The LDRs i bought did vary quite a bit. Then batch test them and adjust the circuit from there or create a trimmer circuit and alignment procedure for consistency. Also I never tested or even simulated the circuit at 18v for example. I doubt the oscillator would work as intended with 18v. So a zener or reg or something would be need for the pedal to be idiot proof.
thanks
I can suggest to use separate grounds for generator and audio path, especially if wave control has opto-coupler. This will reduce dramatically leaking of generator frequency into audio path. Also adding a high path filter on the end stage of U1 with frequency roll-off around 50-100Hz will greatly reduce that generator frequency sound at amplifier side.
sweet
Hi, I've tried building this tremolo from ur schematic, and even though i created separate grounds etc. this ticking sound is still very present. I really don't know what should could I do about it. Is there anyone who could help?
Did you ever get this sorted?
@@-______-______- sadly no
16:10 Hello. Would a small *hot glue gun* be efficient there if I haven't any *CA Glue* ?
👍👍👍
🤘🤘🤘
That is a vibrato, not a tremolo (in spanish:eso es un vibrato no un tremolo)