A lot of us look at your entire videos my friend so I personally want to thank you for your time and efforts, believe me they do not go unnoticed......
I don't care what anyone else thinks or says, the proof is in the pudding and your models are top notch. Others may like a different product for how they are comfortable with its application but if they are going to argue about it, then they should show their work. Thanks for the great informative and entertaining videos. Glad your back.
I watched the entire video, great reviews of all the products, I APPRECIATE THAT. I went and bought a bottle of the MIRROR, for what I build it will be awesome. Thank you for showing that.
I always enjoy your videos, Frank. That period of time when you had been injured had me worried, concerned about your welfare. It wasn't natural for you to go so long without a video, and I look forward to them. (Selfish on my part? Maybe.) I'm glad you're back. This video has been incredibly informative. I thought it was ME and my application of Molotow that made it nondurable. Surprise to me! Nature of the beast. I've used BMS since I learned of it. I've had varying success with it. I don't use it exclusively, mainly because it can be frustrating. I appreciate the fact (which you mentioned) it's forgivable. Gaps and layers are almost completely invisible. I HAVE to mention the Mustang looks indescribably amazing!!!! Love your paint work, anyway, and that really goes over the top!!! Thank you for your videos, Frank, and I, for one, DO watch them to the end. I also look forward to your FB posts.
I am forever a fan just for the opening of this video. I have not laughed that hard in years. It sums up how I feel every time there is a chrome trim post. Its either Molotow or Silver Sharpie. You have mad skills and great videos. Thanks for doing your thing. I use the SMS Hyperchrome. I am aware its not chrome enough for some. But for me it does the job and seems to be fairly durable but still doesn't like being clear coated.
Great video, and you are 100% correct, about NOT clear coating over bare metal foil or chrome. Plus it seems to me that the point of the chrome trim is to highlight & contrast the body color…( not making the trim appear the same luster as the paint ) I actually want the chrome to appear as a “different” ( separate ) “piece” from the painted body, so I don’t know why anyone would clear coat over chrome. My problem & challenge is to keep the chrome trim SMOOTH enough…….while the body is primed and painted. I have had some “rough primer” showing through on my chrome trim before BMF. Great video - love your channel keep it up 👍👌
As a kid, silver paint was as close as I could get to chrome. Getting back into modeling now, I looked at a few options. That's very disheartening about Bare Metal Foil as I spent some money on it, but haven't tried to use it. I did try to use a roll of what turned out to be like mylar or plastic to try to line a headlight bucket. One of four looked okay - lots of application issues. On another model, I sprayed AK Extreme Metal "bright chrome" but it looked more like satin aluminum. In fairness, I need to try again prepping correctly with black base. I don't think Revell spray is available in Europe and they won't ship spray cans from the US (I am actually from Texas, just work here). Thanks for tutorial. I watched every second of it to the end. Cheers.
Wow, I spent a ton of money today. I found a shop in Belgium that carries Revell chrome spray, 20€, and then 20€ shipping to Poland. To make the shipping worthwhile, I added some other stuff, including 2 kits. One thing they do have in Europe is Zero Paints. I like MCW and ScaleFinishes, especially for older US colors, but Zero Paints are spot on accurate to real colors. MCW and SF were only off slightly, on one color (B5 blue). I tried 4 colors of Splash, not even remotely close on any color. Their B5 Blue is almost purple. The ZP are great for modern paints, but can't do (even by special order) classic US colors like 1969 Q5 Seafoam Turquoise or 1968 Ford F Gulfstream Aqua. They had a ZP chrome paint kit for 18€, but I'd already spent way too much. If the Revell works, I don't see what the 3 part ZP chrome process gets me. Thanks again for your video. Very helpful.
great video frank,im with you with the bmf! i apply it the same way as you and i got the new improved stuff in the zip lock bag...and it still wont stick!!
Thank you for sharing all the knowledge in your videos that you do I have learned a lot more than I ever thought possible watching your videos I appreciate your desire to help the community by providing your experiences and results with the different products I truly appreciate your time and efforts Again I Thank You for all you do and All the videos you provide God Bless and Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays to you and your family 👍🏽👍🏽
Love your videos and I was unfortunately ( but not really) born with the same sense of humor. I am just getting back into modeling now that I have retired and your videos have saved me a lot of time. Unfortunately, my skill level is about the same as when I was 12. One more thing, you mentioned that the Stuart Semple Mirror paint was on sale for $36 but I couldn't find the link? I am sure it is my 70+ year old eyes but could you share it assuming that it is still on sale.
Thanks, I had seen that link but thought that I had it wrong because it was not on sale. That's me, "a day late and a dollar short". Thanks for taking the time to respond and thank you for your videos.
Frank you have the patience of a saint !! I see and feel the fustration with foil i always screw it up i think paint is the best I had a 68 roadrunner that green I wait for the end
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in the work. The clean shaven amongst us appreciate you. SO Looking forward to the rant video. The neck beards will be running for their razors. Perhaps a Harry's sponsorship is in order...
i use silver SharPei then dip the whole thing in Future and let it drip dry in the oven at 350 for 15min 🤣 ok, back to reality.. i appreciate your sense of humor and thanks for your videos!
Very good video Frank. Thank you for sharing your experience. Chrome is still a sensitive/not a simple step to do. I have to try that Revell chrome…I’ve watched all kinds of reviews and all the conclusions lead to be sensitive to the touch and not that great when clear coating is applied.
Well Frank, you know I have a neck and a beard. Enough said about that! Awesome video, cant wait for the Rant video. I did make it to the end while I was editing that next 2.5 trillion view video that I will make $10 bucks on in the first year. Big time Frank... 😁 I'm not going to tell you what I use and how you should too because I use AK-47, I mean AK Super Chrome and you should too! 😁 Just say! Anyway thanks for all the links in the description that is going to suck up all my next SSI check, thanks pal... 🤣 Anyway, Be Well and I WILL BE BACK... LLAP 🖖
Nice comparison. I was a molotow person. Before that, Testors silver brush painted. No where near steady enough of a hand for that. I just bought my first sheets of BMF to try out 😬.
I use AK masking foil, aluminum as an alternative to Bare Metal Foil, looks very much like chrome. In the future I might try the new Tamiya foil. I will use Molotow on very small things like door locks, or scripts.
Frankie love that mod top on the blue charger.can I buy a couple of you for my future builds.great job.i needed sun glasses to look at that mustang.thats shiny
You see, in an alternate universe you did not mask off the trim. And you accidentally picked up that one and used it for the rest of this video. I got your back!😜
I've never tried BMF. Back in the day, I used either Model Master Chrome Silver Trim and Testors Chrome. I haven't been brave enough to use BMF. Trimming it on a nicely painted body would scare the bejeezus out of me. I also agree on Revell Chrom spray. Out of the can, it is fantastic stuff. Haven't tried decanting it, though. (Yes, I did watch all 1 hour and three minutes!)
I have used moltov, bare metal foil, mirror, a silver sharpie, testors silver, and had decent results with all of them, but they all have drawbacks. Mirror is great, but very watery and it never seems to cure. Bmf requires patience, and a very steady hand. It is also inconsistent in quality. Moltov and sharpie are good for thin areas like wheel well trim. I put Molotov on trim before clear and then after for the shine, and handle it not! Testors silver is good but you need to either mask to paint it or a steady hand to brush. Plus you might have to do it twice. I want to try recall decanted. I wonder if it can be brushed and retain chrome finush, and if adding Gardner to it will help durability?
Hey Frank, I watched all 1:03:04 of the video! Thank you for all the information you've been providing on your channel. Of all the trim options you explained, I was impressed most by the Hasegawa Mirror Finish and - from your earlier video - the Revell Chrome Spray. Lol, "I've been model building for 60 years", but I've never tried either of those two products, and I do intend to try them now, as I begin transitioning back into building kits. (full disclosure: I stopped building models when I was finishing high school, and I've been retired now about 20 years, so 60 years of modeling was a stretch! 😆😉) I do want to ask one question, about something not covered in your video, to get your opinion. I've had a couple of model builders over the years tell me they've used household aluminum foil in place of the "bare metal foil" product. I'm skeptical, have never tried it. Have you? Do you think it would work? By accident, my household purchasing agent has amassed far too much Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil than will ever be used in my lifetime. So I'm wondering if burnishing aluminum foil on models is even a possibility.
@@rayrussell6258 it’s a possibility, but it likely won’t work well. It’s very thick and tough to burnish down well enough to be passable. Plus, it’s isn’t chrome, so it will have a dull sheen.
@@FranksModelWorks if it will stick, I may give it a try then. One side of the foil I have is very shiny, the back side is a bit dull. Eisenhower may have been President when this roll I have was made. 😉
Frank I'm with you 100% on BMF ugh. like you BMF has never been a friend of mine. I too get anxiety but that occurs when I need to use an x-acto blade on my freshly painted cut and buffed body, why don't I just get a root canal at the same time as well. I have used the Revell chrome with really good results never decanted though, going to give that a try. But no matter how long you let the Revell dry still be hands off because it will dull . I can remember back in the days of a company called Chrome-Tech that would re-chrome model car parts but of course that didn't apply to trim and moldings. I have always been a custom car builder so pretty much all of my builds are smoothed and filled with very very little chrome. And don't get me wrong, sometimes I would like to have maybe a chrome trimmed windshield and back glass but like you have said "is it really worth the risk". I know that there are builders who do masterful jobs with BMF but I'm not one. I just want you to know that I really enjoy watching your videos and I truly appreciate the sincere passion you have for our hobby , Thank you...and what's up with the PSA 7 shirt , 43 pct here.
@@69airride3 it’s PSA 1…my nephew got on in 2022 and works there. He did the Cadet Corps for 2 years in the 60th, then got bounced to housing out of the academy because a kid had a hook. My days in were limited to two years in the Cadet Corps (7th in 1994 and TD30 after the merge in 1995) then into the academy after I graduated from college, but was invited to “pursue another career” within a few months. Oopsie.
The Horror Frank 🤣, Another great knowledge filled video thank you Frank, I find bare metal foil works great on aircraft canopies I have the older versions as i got a deal about 10 years ago so iam set for many years to come i was not aware they had a new improved version i will have to pick up a sheet of the new stuff. Keep im coming Frank .
I've used car rep 2k clear over chrome trim with great results, but its expensive and its made in the uk but tropical glitz sells it. another thing is that you can not decant this clear. The company has some type of technology in the can which allows the hardner to activate only when its sprayed from the can, which allows for a long shelf life of the 2k clear.
I agree to be Frank! Don’t you just love when someone asks your opinion, then will argue the answer!😵💫 I have done paint clinics years ago, with a jerk in the crowd that would waste time arguing! 🙃 Biggest problem i notice is people pulling the foil off the sheet and pulling it back on itself! Effectively permanently wrinkling the foil! Have you ever tried silver leaf? I have used it! With great results! Dang Frank that 3 color mustang is beautiful! Thanks for the great humorous video!! 💯👍🏻🙃🫡🇺🇸
Well, I am very sorry Frank, I am going to have to disappoint You. Yes, I have to agree with many of the statements You made. I believe You satisfactorily show through actual use of said products to effectively shown factual results. Which in its own right showed no favoritism . I find no fault with Your demonstrations. having said that, to all those who say foul, I reply with, "poo poo!" Really, I appreciate that You took the time and consideration, not to mention the cost, to show Us out here what the end results are with these products! Thank You Frank! The top on the Dodge, hey, it is Your build, right? The colors on the mustang are sweet! I am really liking the wild cherry candy! That looks killer! I don't like the molotow, there are some paints that were close, and I have been using the bare metal foil for some time now. Yes, it has it's issues, arrgh! I "do" watch the videos completely, that is how, I have found, a person can, might and will, learn something from someone else. Hey, it is a great video, really, there is information in there, a person only needs to watch. Thank You for sharing with Us here in tubeland. I am looking forward to the next video! Take Care, Be Safe, God Bless, Later Say, could I get a shop card from You??
Oh oh oh can i get in on the "gatekeeper" video lol. Im with you bud i hate that crap! Love the video very informative. That brush on mirror is awesome but yeah its not chep
Thanks for Sharing Frank-O, You could be like me and just Despise the Look of Chrome on cars and Bare metal foil To stimulate is even Worse. I Hot Rod Every build and what's chrome on a kit, I'll replace with, Gunmetal, Burnt Iron, Brass, etc. I'll Never build Stock. That's my weird ass though. Hot Roding model car kits to me is Pure Americana. Thanks Again, I Really Enjoy your content Frank, Keep Knock'em Out. Oh, Love that Candy Cherry/ Sunburst Orange paint job on your Mustang. Nice
Thanks for the information. I'm interested in the Stuart Sample mirror chrome at $37, however the link in the description has the price at $50. Looks like it's already gone up.
@@robs4516 It might have been a Black Friday sale. If I recall correctly, when I bought it, it was two bottles for $79. I still haven’t opened the second bottle and it has been at least 4 years. I’m about halfway through the first bottle and I use it on just about every model I build.
Thanks Frank for the video. All 3 trims look good, but the sprayed on trims look outstanding! Only question i had was once you decant the revell spray did you mix any self leveling thinner with it? I saw the bottle in your paint booth is why I'm asking.
@@DracoMeadors no thinner was used for the decanted Revell Chrome. The thinner was probably still there from when I base coated the black on the trim. That was mixed with Leveling Thinner
I have tried them all except the Revell chrom. I wonder if after declaring it if it can be brushed and retain the chrome look, and if adding a hardener to it will increase durability?
@@dennissebranek543 Generally, yes. You can spray anything over anything else so long as what you’re painting over is fully cured. Sharpie ink is solvent based, but mild enough that it plays well with whatever it goes over, and is resilient enough to handle proper applications of lacquer. Water based acrylics will be fine, as will enamels if applied properly. 2K will be ok with a primary mist coat, 10 minute wait, then subsequent coats. I don’t know what Rustoleum, Krylon, Duplicokor, etc will do because I don’t use those products. The clear over the Sharpie will make it look like gloss aluminum. It will not make it look like chrome.
I feel your frustration with various products to recreate chrome trim. Durability and repeatable results are still lack luster with any of the alternatives. Similar to you, I tried $100's on various methods with mixed results. Barbados Rex didn't help with that. The only thing I could say is between all the various methods, there is no perfect alternative, but some work better in certain areas than others. That is a decision for the individual to decide. That aside, the decanted Revell chrom was a PITA, was it worth the trouble to decant to spray the trim?
@@ericterry5025 results wise, it was. Economically, decanting it was wasteful. Then again, you waste a lot spraying it out of the can. It’s like there’s no all-positive way to do it.
@FranksModelWorks FWIW, you mentioned the AK Super Chrome as another alternative yet to be tested. My experience is that it's okay. It doesn't require a black base, seems to lay out similar to Revell Chrom, but didn't have the same brilliant chrome like appearance. I may try it again at some point to see if the results are better. Maybe it was an operator error. Again, no perfect product to do any and all chrome tasks.
You briefly put up a picture of a Dodge Superbee you built. Was that the Monogram 1/24 Superbee? You went into detail about fixing issues with Revell Charger bodies, and I was wondering if you found any comparable issues with the Monogram body, if that was what you used.
Yup, that was the Monogram Superbee. There's a feature video on my channel with all the deets. I didn't note any issues with the Monogram body like I did with the 68 Charger body.
@@FranksModelWorksgreat! I will go watch that now. I ordered this kit the other day. Thanks for all these videos, they really are helping me, and not just in spending more money. My paint work and finish is improving in large part to your taking the time to share your expertise and demonstrate.
Thanks, Frank! That was a great video! I'm back in the hobby after 20 years! Thanks for introducing me to a lot of new building options for model kits. Are you planning to build a Dukes of Hazzard Doge Charger 69 from a 1/25 scale Revell kit in the future?
i stopped using bare metal foil long ago because of the sticking problems, i use either a sharpie or havent tried it yet but the molitov chrome which here in Canada is hard to fine but i finally got my hands on 1. great video i always watch the whole video and Frank lots of people bitch in the comments dosent matter what the topic is about.
So heres a long comment and question. But i watched all 902 minutes so i feel you owe me😂.....you talked about brush painting the trim, do you just go at it Freehand or do you tape the edges of the trim just in case..i feel like if i would tape then a brush it might have a tendency to bleed under the tape ? Maybe i need to be a litte less heavy handed with the brush? If you could comment on your experience doing this way id appreciate it.....btw great video, good to have you back
@@Chris-d8f6p when I said I was going to brush paint it, it was out of anger and frustration. But if I HAD to do it, I would mask off the trim, I shit you not, with Bare Metal foil. It sticks like crap to trim, but is actually pretty good as a masking material.
What about the Molotow pen? 🤓 JK. Sorry, I just had to. When You use the Revell chrome through an airbrush, did You thin it? If so what thinner did You use? I haven't tried it yet, but now I'm most definetely going to.
@@Tess_untamed the only thing that is chrome is the plating. Bumpers on cars of the30’s, 40’s, 50’s, 60’s and into the 70’s were steel that were plated with chrome. Depending on the manufacturer, the trim could be chrome plated steel, polished stainless steel, occasionally plated plastic and yes, plated aluminum. Bare aluminum would oxidize quickly if used as trim. Could you cite some specific examples of cars that are equipped with aluminum trim?
@@FranksModelWorksmy 1974 Mustang II used chrome plated steel trim, as you wrote. Originally a northern car (road salt 🤬) I had to replace most of it. The Ford letters on nose piece (fiberglass) and galloping horse on the grill were some sort of white metal or pot metal with little pimples of corrosion, but not aluminum, far too heavy. The grill was chromed plastic. My 1984 Ford Bronco II also had chrome plated steel trim. I don't recall about my '82 Datsun King Cab, but my two 1984 Mazda RX-7s had blackened (painted or powder coated) steel trim, but only very little. All my later cars used black plastic.
Barbados rex just did a chrome test with a paint from Etsy and it's legit and you can clear over it think we might of found the holy grail lol but it too is really expensive
@@ruckusrodkustom8140 that’s the problem…they’re only “good sheets” for what seems like 47 minutes after they arrive at my local hobby shop…drives me crazy.
I am surprised UA-camrs in the modeling genre don't make April fools videos. Could totally see someone carefully brushing on the silver Never Zees paste for the chrome bombers and trim in an April Fools video.
I think I may have detected a slight hint of agitation in your voice. Seriously though, you may want to ignore the negative comments. Your content stands on its own and I for one look forward to your next video each time you post one.
@@wisner6 UA-cam has a wonderful feature called “hide from channel”…it’s like a shadow ban. Once I hide someone from the channel, they think they’re posting comments as THEY can see them, but no one else can, including me. They get the smug satisfaction of what they think is shutting me up, meanwhile, I never even see their posts. And it’s one and done. When they make a mean comment, they’re gone. I’m more angry at the damage those idiots do on forums and Facebook groups.
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣 In the first 2 seconds!!! (Wait that's about how long that stuff stays chrome for me too). An excellent expose on gatekeeping. Just last week I went off on 2 tw@ts that were adamant that gloss coating a model is absolutely required for good decal adhesion (doesn't do $#!+ for adhesion, just helps with silvering), and literally used the exact phrase "We've been building for over 60 years so we know what we are talking about" and one claimed that the other was "one of the greatest model builders in the history of the hobby...." so everyone needed to shut up and respect their authority. Freaking neckbeards... I didn't know Tamiya came out with a foil. Pffft... It took me 3 years just to get to the point that I could start getting paid my 35 cents a video lol. I agree we definitely aren't making a living, It's a labor of love. Are you thinning the Revell with anything or is it just decant it into a bottle and let it gas off? I didn't see the link to the high school graduation.
@@JHartModelworks no thinning of the Revell Chrom is necessary. Unfortunately, my HS graduation video was on a BBS hosted by Earthlink. I tried to punch it up on the Ask Jeeves, and couldn’t find it. It’s for the best…I was BOMBED at my high school graduation.
Greetings from the 51st State 🤣It is great to have you back online. Yup I agree, BMF is a no go for me. I have used Bare Metal Foil glue, as you did, but stayed clear of BMF. I used the very thin metal wrappers from certain chocolate bars: the foil is much thinner than BMF, easier to burnish, and to cut. I have never used Revell Chrome so am going to pick a can up. Here is some insanity for my Southern neighbor: Tamiya spray cans are now banned in Canada, as of December 31, 2024!!!! Yup, Governor Trudeau is a supreme clown.
Game on, again! I was about to give up on 3D printing due to the inability to print the glass pieces. Then, I stumbled across this video. The vacuum former is only $100, allegedly, and it completes the parts list. ua-cam.com/video/5D0gpPcnCqo/v-deo.html So, I'm back on track to get into the 3D aspect of things. Again, Thank you Frank for being a guiding light.
I’ve found if you mask with Bare Metal Foil, then apply some Testors Silver Chrome Trim, rub your fingers all over it (only after it has dried for 2 weeks), then apply some heavily stretched Hasegawa Mirror Chrome, the results are… Wait, what was this video about? Oh yeah, masking Mod Tops with even more Bare Metal Foil. Did those really come on Chargers? I have no idea, but I’ll leave my gate open if you wanna stop by. You can help me organize my stash while we sniff chrome paint to figure out which ones are “enamely”. No, that’s a terrible idea. Video on!
@@timkustom I say enamel-y because I don’t like saying “Naptha”. It reminds me of having a lisp and trying to say “Napster” with a NY accent….kinda like the people who don’t like the word “moist” or “wedge”.
Another great video! Just my opinion but, I think you need to stop focusing so much about the comments section and just do what you do. I'm afraid it will burn you out and make you stop making videos and that loss of knowledge being passed on will be a loss to the community.
@@stevearms1321 I would, but I have to read the comments to answer people’s questions. Or they email me. Or message me on other social media. They’re energy vampires, and they can be relentless. I want to be able to interact with the people who watch my content, and believe me…they know that…which is why some of them do what they do. If I were to stop responding altogether, then they’ll scour the comment section and start with other commenters. If it’s annoying, I usually just ignore it. There are about 50 people who are blocked from this channel for the despicable things they’ve said here.
A neck beard is someone who is like the “Comic book store guy” on The Simpsons…basically a know it all who’s just here to spot errors and correct them…not to worry anyone, but to demonstrate their magnificence. Sometimes it’s inaccuracies, others it’s flaw-spotting. Most can’t help it, but it doesn’t make them less annoying.
When it comes to joints in the bare metal foil (yes I do strips. I'm not wasting my money tracing tiny trim out of 2 square inches of this stuff) they never bothered me. Look at real trim. Does it come as one piece on a real car? Hell no. If you want to get fussy then you should have joints. So now be prepared for a magnifying glass looking to make sure you have joints in the right places. And not having joints counts against you.
@@BigSkyModelWorkshop that is where most of it takes place. There’s some here, but it’s easily avoidable…most people don’t read the comments here, and as content creators, we can just ignore trolls, or hide them. Gatekeeping is what killed special interest forums for the most part. Facebook offered a one-stop shop for gatekeepers to troll numerous special interests in one place.
Great video. Here's the link to the holy grail of chrome lol and yes I haven't used it lol looks good on video lol ua-cam.com/video/bcbNlbwULlU/v-deo.htmlsi=hSyCBvcl-EOxrmFr
Aluminum tape. The chrome pens are just okay. But aluminum tape, if you do it correctly, is the BEST option for all chrom trim on models. Full stop. Been building for just over 37 years, and I can easily say there is nothing that can compete. Cut to size, apply, polish, and clear on you will have the most amazing looking chrome trim you can have.
A lot of us look at your entire videos my friend so I personally want to thank you for your time and efforts, believe me they do not go unnoticed......
Just 3 days and it's already your second most popular video. For good reason: a wealth of info about something many, especially me, struggle with.
I'm still watching and enjoying the video. looking forward to the rant video. lol
I don't care what anyone else thinks or says, the proof is in the pudding and your models are top notch. Others may like a different product for how they are comfortable with its application but if they are going to argue about it, then they should show their work. Thanks for the great informative and entertaining videos. Glad your back.
Yes , but can he talk and work on cars while he talks ?
We have to listen to ramble on , and lose interest and stop watching.
Great techniques for applying chrome finishes! 💯🔥🙌🏾
I still love my MM Silver Chrome Trim paint for some applications and any BMF is great for masking, when it sticks. Keep up the great videos!
I watched the entire video, great reviews of all the products, I APPRECIATE THAT. I went and bought a bottle of the MIRROR, for what I build it will be awesome. Thank you for showing that.
I always enjoy your videos, Frank. That period of time when you had been injured had me worried, concerned about your welfare. It wasn't natural for you to go so long without a video, and I look forward to them. (Selfish on my part? Maybe.) I'm glad you're back. This video has been incredibly informative. I thought it was ME and my application of Molotow that made it nondurable. Surprise to me! Nature of the beast. I've used BMS since I learned of it. I've had varying success with it. I don't use it exclusively, mainly because it can be frustrating. I appreciate the fact (which you mentioned) it's forgivable. Gaps and layers are almost completely invisible. I HAVE to mention the Mustang looks indescribably amazing!!!! Love your paint work, anyway, and that really goes over the top!!! Thank you for your videos, Frank, and I, for one, DO watch them to the end. I also look forward to your FB posts.
I am forever a fan just for the opening of this video. I have not laughed that hard in years. It sums up how I feel every time there is a chrome trim post. Its either Molotow or Silver Sharpie. You have mad skills and great videos. Thanks for doing your thing. I use the SMS Hyperchrome. I am aware its not chrome enough for some. But for me it does the job and seems to be fairly durable but still doesn't like being clear coated.
Great video. Love the mod top. A lot of very good information to unpack. Thank you.
Great video, and you are 100% correct, about NOT clear coating over bare metal foil or chrome. Plus it seems to me that the point of the chrome trim is to highlight & contrast the body color…( not making the trim appear the same luster as the paint ) I actually want the chrome to appear as a “different” ( separate ) “piece” from the painted body, so I don’t know why anyone would clear coat over chrome. My problem & challenge is to keep the chrome trim SMOOTH enough…….while the body is primed and painted. I have had some “rough primer” showing through on my chrome trim before BMF. Great video - love your channel keep it up 👍👌
As a kid, silver paint was as close as I could get to chrome. Getting back into modeling now, I looked at a few options. That's very disheartening about Bare Metal Foil as I spent some money on it, but haven't tried to use it. I did try to use a roll of what turned out to be like mylar or plastic to try to line a headlight bucket. One of four looked okay - lots of application issues. On another model, I sprayed AK Extreme Metal "bright chrome" but it looked more like satin aluminum. In fairness, I need to try again prepping correctly with black base. I don't think Revell spray is available in Europe and they won't ship spray cans from the US (I am actually from Texas, just work here). Thanks for tutorial. I watched every second of it to the end. Cheers.
Wow, I spent a ton of money today. I found a shop in Belgium that carries Revell chrome spray, 20€, and then 20€ shipping to Poland. To make the shipping worthwhile, I added some other stuff, including 2 kits.
One thing they do have in Europe is Zero Paints. I like MCW and ScaleFinishes, especially for older US colors, but Zero Paints are spot on accurate to real colors. MCW and SF were only off slightly, on one color (B5 blue). I tried 4 colors of Splash, not even remotely close on any color. Their B5 Blue is almost purple. The ZP are great for modern paints, but can't do (even by special order) classic US colors like 1969 Q5 Seafoam Turquoise or 1968 Ford F Gulfstream Aqua. They had a ZP chrome paint kit for 18€, but I'd already spent way too much. If the Revell works, I don't see what the 3 part ZP chrome process gets me.
Thanks again for your video. Very helpful.
Thanks, Frank!! That was a great video! It introduced me to a lot of new options for doing my chrome.
great video frank,im with you with the bmf! i apply it the same way as you and i got the new improved stuff in the zip lock bag...and it still wont stick!!
Thank u for the tips the builds are awesome I watch the entire video it help full, keep on building thank u for the links thumb up
Thank you for sharing all the knowledge in your videos that you do I have learned a lot more than I ever thought possible watching your videos I appreciate your desire to help the community by providing your experiences and results with the different products I truly appreciate your time and efforts Again I Thank You for all you do and All the videos you provide God Bless and Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays to you and your family 👍🏽👍🏽
Love your videos and I was unfortunately ( but not really) born with the same sense of humor. I am just getting back into modeling now that I have retired and your videos have saved me a lot of time. Unfortunately, my skill level is about the same as when I was 12. One more thing, you mentioned that the Stuart Semple Mirror paint was on sale for $36 but I couldn't find the link? I am sure it is my 70+ year old eyes but could you share it assuming that it is still on sale.
@@barryconn4613 the sale is over, but here’s the link:
www.culturehustleusa.com/products/mirror
Thanks, I had seen that link but thought that I had it wrong because it was not on sale. That's me, "a day late and a dollar short". Thanks for taking the time to respond and thank you for your videos.
@@FranksModelWorksDoh!
I appreciate the effort and information you give in your videos a ton! Thank you for doing so, keep up the great work brother!😊
Great tutorial Frank. Keep up the great videos, I appreciate your sense of humor.
Wow!!!!!! That cherry is awesome!!!!!!!!
I use molotow and similar pens for areas that won't be touched. Interior trim and door handles, windows cranks, and the like
Thank you for all the information. That alone is priceless.
Frank you have the patience of a saint !! I see and feel the fustration with foil i always screw it up i think paint is the best I had a 68 roadrunner that green I wait for the end
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in the work. The clean shaven amongst us appreciate you. SO Looking forward to the rant video. The neck beards will be running for their razors. Perhaps a Harry's sponsorship is in order...
i use silver SharPei then dip the whole thing in Future and let it drip dry in the oven at 350 for 15min 🤣 ok, back to reality.. i appreciate your sense of humor and thanks for your videos!
Very educational video. Love the humor. I want to try bare metal foil I just really nervous about cutting into the model and messing up the paint job
Very good video Frank. Thank you for sharing your experience. Chrome is still a sensitive/not a simple step to do. I have to try that Revell chrome…I’ve watched all kinds of reviews and all the conclusions lead to be sensitive to the touch and not that great when clear coating is applied.
Well Frank, you know I have a neck and a beard. Enough said about that! Awesome video, cant wait for the Rant video. I did make it to the end while I was editing that next 2.5 trillion view video that I will make $10 bucks on in the first year. Big time Frank... 😁
I'm not going to tell you what I use and how you should too because I use AK-47, I mean AK Super Chrome and you should too! 😁 Just say! Anyway thanks for all the links in the description that is going to suck up all my next SSI check, thanks pal... 🤣 Anyway, Be Well and I WILL BE BACK...
LLAP 🖖
Thank you,keep up with the great work Frank 👍
Thank You Franck. Very Informative. Keep On Modeling!
Nice comparison. I was a molotow person. Before that, Testors silver brush painted. No where near steady enough of a hand for that. I just bought my first sheets of BMF to try out 😬.
@@BigGuyModelworks I wish you luck!
I use AK masking foil, aluminum as an alternative to Bare Metal Foil, looks very much like chrome.
In the future I might try the new Tamiya foil.
I will use Molotow on very small things like door locks, or scripts.
Frankie love that mod top on the blue charger.can I buy a couple of you for my future builds.great job.i needed sun glasses to look at that mustang.thats shiny
was very informative and entertaining hour thank you for all!!!
Frank, you make me laugh. And your videos are great. Keep up the good work
You see, in an alternate universe you did not mask off the trim. And you accidentally picked up that one and used it for the rest of this video. I got your back!😜
I've never tried BMF. Back in the day, I used either Model Master Chrome Silver Trim and Testors Chrome. I haven't been brave enough to use BMF. Trimming it on a nicely painted body would scare the bejeezus out of me. I also agree on Revell Chrom spray. Out of the can, it is fantastic stuff. Haven't tried decanting it, though. (Yes, I did watch all 1 hour and three minutes!)
I have used moltov, bare metal foil, mirror, a silver sharpie, testors silver, and had decent results with all of them, but they all have drawbacks. Mirror is great, but very watery and it never seems to cure. Bmf requires patience, and a very steady hand. It is also inconsistent in quality. Moltov and sharpie are good for thin areas like wheel well trim. I put Molotov on trim before clear and then after for the shine, and handle it not! Testors silver is good but you need to either mask to paint it or a steady hand to brush. Plus you might have to do it twice. I want to try recall decanted. I wonder if it can be brushed and retain chrome finush, and if adding Gardner to it will help durability?
Hey Frank, I watched all 1:03:04 of the video! Thank you for all the information you've been providing on your channel. Of all the trim options you explained, I was impressed most by the Hasegawa Mirror Finish and - from your earlier video - the Revell Chrome Spray. Lol, "I've been model building for 60 years", but I've never tried either of those two products, and I do intend to try them now, as I begin transitioning back into building kits. (full disclosure: I stopped building models when I was finishing high school, and I've been retired now about 20 years, so 60 years of modeling was a stretch! 😆😉)
I do want to ask one question, about something not covered in your video, to get your opinion. I've had a couple of model builders over the years tell me they've used household aluminum foil in place of the "bare metal foil" product. I'm skeptical, have never tried it. Have you? Do you think it would work? By accident, my household purchasing agent has amassed far too much Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil than will ever be used in my lifetime. So I'm wondering if burnishing aluminum foil on models is even a possibility.
@@rayrussell6258 it’s a possibility, but it likely won’t work well. It’s very thick and tough to burnish down well enough to be passable. Plus, it’s isn’t chrome, so it will have a dull sheen.
@@FranksModelWorks if it will stick, I may give it a try then. One side of the foil I have is very shiny, the back side is a bit dull.
Eisenhower may have been President when this roll I have was made. 😉
Frank I'm with you 100% on BMF ugh. like you BMF has never been a friend of mine. I too get anxiety but that occurs when I need to use an x-acto blade on my freshly painted cut and buffed body, why don't I just get a root canal at the same time as well. I have used the Revell chrome with really good results never decanted though, going to give that a try. But no matter how long you let the Revell dry still be hands off because it will dull . I can remember back in the days of a company called Chrome-Tech that would re-chrome model car parts but of course that didn't apply to trim and moldings. I have always been a custom car builder so pretty much all of my builds are smoothed and filled with very very little chrome. And don't get me wrong, sometimes I would like to have maybe a chrome trimmed windshield and back glass but like you have said "is it really worth the risk". I know that there are builders who do masterful jobs with BMF but I'm not one. I just want you to know that I really enjoy watching your videos and I truly appreciate the sincere passion you have for our hobby , Thank you...and what's up with the PSA 7 shirt , 43 pct here.
@@69airride3 it’s PSA 1…my nephew got on in 2022 and works there. He did the Cadet Corps for 2 years in the 60th, then got bounced to housing out of the academy because a kid had a hook. My days in were limited to two years in the Cadet Corps (7th in 1994 and TD30 after the merge in 1995) then into the academy after I graduated from college, but was invited to “pursue another career” within a few months. Oopsie.
The Horror Frank 🤣, Another great knowledge filled video thank you Frank, I find bare metal foil works great on aircraft canopies I have the older versions as i got a deal about 10 years ago so iam set for many years to come i was not aware they had a new improved version i will have to pick up a sheet of the new stuff. Keep im coming Frank .
I've used car rep 2k clear over chrome trim with great results, but its expensive and its made in the uk but tropical glitz sells it. another thing is that you can not decant this clear. The company has some type of technology in the can which allows the hardner to activate only when its sprayed from the can, which allows for a long shelf life of the 2k clear.
I agree to be Frank! Don’t you just love when someone asks your opinion, then will argue the answer!😵💫
I have done paint clinics years ago, with a jerk in the crowd that would waste time arguing! 🙃
Biggest problem i notice is people pulling the foil off the sheet and pulling it back on itself! Effectively permanently wrinkling the foil! Have you ever tried silver leaf? I have used it! With great results! Dang Frank that 3 color mustang is beautiful! Thanks for the great humorous video!! 💯👍🏻🙃🫡🇺🇸
Well, I am very sorry Frank, I am going to have to disappoint You. Yes, I have to agree with many of the statements You made. I believe You satisfactorily show through actual use of said products to effectively shown factual results. Which in its own right showed no favoritism . I find no fault with Your demonstrations. having said that, to all those who say foul, I reply with, "poo poo!" Really, I appreciate that You took the time and consideration, not to mention the cost, to show Us out here what the end results are with these products! Thank You Frank! The top on the Dodge, hey, it is Your build, right? The colors on the mustang are sweet! I am really liking the wild cherry candy! That looks killer! I don't like the molotow, there are some paints that were close, and I have been using the bare metal foil for some time now. Yes, it has it's issues, arrgh! I "do" watch the videos completely, that is how, I have found, a person can, might and will, learn something from someone else. Hey, it is a great video, really, there is information in there, a person only needs to watch. Thank You for sharing with Us here in tubeland. I am looking forward to the next video! Take Care, Be Safe, God Bless, Later Say, could I get a shop card from You??
@@russellpoland6637 sure, just email your address to franksmodelworks@gmail.com
Thanks for the info frank and I love a good rant!
Oh oh oh can i get in on the "gatekeeper" video lol. Im with you bud i hate that crap! Love the video very informative. That brush on mirror is awesome but yeah its not chep
I am putting my glass in place first and then foiling, makes it a lot easier when you attack that frustrating A pillar area….
I appreciate your efforts sir, thank you
Thanks you Frank, very good video on chrome.
BUUUUUUT FRANKKKK You couldnt get a Mod top on a chargerrrrr (I had to sorry lol).
Very awesome stuff, looking forward to more!
Thanks for Sharing Frank-O, You could be like me and just Despise the Look of Chrome on cars and Bare metal foil To stimulate is even Worse. I Hot Rod Every build and what's chrome on a kit, I'll replace with, Gunmetal, Burnt Iron, Brass, etc. I'll Never build Stock. That's my weird ass though. Hot Roding model car kits to me is Pure Americana. Thanks Again, I Really Enjoy your content Frank, Keep Knock'em Out. Oh, Love that Candy Cherry/ Sunburst Orange paint job on your Mustang. Nice
Thanks for the information. I'm interested in the Stuart Sample mirror chrome at $37, however the link in the description has the price at $50. Looks like it's already gone up.
@@robs4516 It might have been a Black Friday sale. If I recall correctly, when I bought it, it was two bottles for $79. I still haven’t opened the second bottle and it has been at least 4 years. I’m about halfway through the first bottle and I use it on just about every model I build.
The tamiya foil has the same setnof problems with that of bmf as well! adhesion problem is one
Thanks Frank for the video. All 3 trims look good, but the sprayed on trims look outstanding! Only question i had was once you decant the revell spray did you mix any self leveling thinner with it? I saw the bottle in your paint booth is why I'm asking.
@@DracoMeadors no thinner was used for the decanted Revell Chrome. The thinner was probably still there from when I base coated the black on the trim. That was mixed with Leveling Thinner
Great video. Ordered some Mirror paint. Made it to the end and disappointed I couldn’t find a link to your HS graduation.
@@KitchenTableScaleModels it’s a VHS recording hosted on an EarthLink BBS. I was bombed during the whole thing!
Sweet Frank looks great
I have tried them all except the Revell chrom. I wonder if after declaring it if it can be brushed and retain the chrome look, and if adding a hardener to it will increase durability?
Decanting it that is
@@dmgscalemodels2825 it probably won’t work to brush paint Revell Chrom. I don’t know of a hardener that would affect it either.
great video frank. watched the whole thing. A 69 Charger didnt come with a mod top. molotow is a great option for chrome.
That's a lotta links Frank... I bought a can of Revell Chrom after your video, but so far I've only used Bare Metal...
Can you clear over the silver sharpie
@@dennissebranek543 Generally, yes. You can spray anything over anything else so long as what you’re painting over is fully cured. Sharpie ink is solvent based, but mild enough that it plays well with whatever it goes over, and is resilient enough to handle proper applications of lacquer. Water based acrylics will be fine, as will enamels if applied properly. 2K will be ok with a primary mist coat, 10 minute wait, then subsequent coats. I don’t know what Rustoleum, Krylon, Duplicokor, etc will do because I don’t use those products.
The clear over the Sharpie will make it look like gloss aluminum. It will not make it look like chrome.
Well done
Thank you, good video.....
I feel your frustration with various products to recreate chrome trim. Durability and repeatable results are still lack luster with any of the alternatives. Similar to you, I tried $100's on various methods with mixed results. Barbados Rex didn't help with that. The only thing I could say is between all the various methods, there is no perfect alternative, but some work better in certain areas than others. That is a decision for the individual to decide. That aside, the decanted Revell chrom was a PITA, was it worth the trouble to decant to spray the trim?
@@ericterry5025 results wise, it was. Economically, decanting it was wasteful. Then again, you waste a lot spraying it out of the can. It’s like there’s no all-positive way to do it.
@FranksModelWorks FWIW, you mentioned the AK Super Chrome as another alternative yet to be tested. My experience is that it's okay. It doesn't require a black base, seems to lay out similar to Revell Chrom, but didn't have the same brilliant chrome like appearance. I may try it again at some point to see if the results are better. Maybe it was an operator error. Again, no perfect product to do any and all chrome tasks.
You briefly put up a picture of a Dodge Superbee you built. Was that the Monogram 1/24 Superbee? You went into detail about fixing issues with Revell Charger bodies, and I was wondering if you found any comparable issues with the Monogram body, if that was what you used.
Yup, that was the Monogram Superbee. There's a feature video on my channel with all the deets. I didn't note any issues with the Monogram body like I did with the 68 Charger body.
@@FranksModelWorksgreat! I will go watch that now. I ordered this kit the other day. Thanks for all these videos, they really are helping me, and not just in spending more money. My paint work and finish is improving in large part to your taking the time to share your expertise and demonstrate.
Thanks, Frank! That was a great video! I'm back in the hobby after 20 years! Thanks for introducing me to a lot of new building options for model kits. Are you planning to build a Dukes of Hazzard Doge Charger 69 from a 1/25 scale Revell kit in the future?
The General Lee has been done enough that I don't think there's anything else I can add to the subject.
i stopped using bare metal foil long ago because of the sticking problems, i use either a sharpie or havent tried it yet but the molitov chrome which here in Canada is hard to fine but i finally got my hands on 1. great video i always watch the whole video and Frank lots of people bitch in the comments dosent matter what the topic is about.
Hey Frank, do you have to thin that revell and what size needle and what psi.
@@harveykeeler2661 it doesn’t need to be thinned, and I shot it out of a .3mm airbrush at 17 psi
So heres a long comment and question. But i watched all 902 minutes so i feel you owe me😂.....you talked about brush painting the trim, do you just go at it Freehand or do you tape the edges of the trim just in case..i feel like if i would tape then a brush it might have a tendency to bleed under the tape ? Maybe i need to be a litte less heavy handed with the brush? If you could comment on your experience doing this way id appreciate it.....btw great video, good to have you back
@@Chris-d8f6p when I said I was going to brush paint it, it was out of anger and frustration. But if I HAD to do it, I would mask off the trim, I shit you not, with Bare Metal foil. It sticks like crap to trim, but is actually pretty good as a masking material.
What about the Molotow pen? 🤓 JK. Sorry, I just had to. When You use the Revell chrome through an airbrush, did You thin it? If so what thinner did You use? I haven't tried it yet, but now I'm most definetely going to.
When decanted, I spray it without any thinner through a .3mm double action at 17 psi. Decanting it is a messy pain in the neck though.
Thinking of chrome, the only thing that is chrome is the bumpers. The other metal parts are "aluminum" parts.
@@Tess_untamed the only thing that is chrome is the plating. Bumpers on cars of the30’s, 40’s, 50’s, 60’s and into the 70’s were steel that were plated with chrome. Depending on the manufacturer, the trim could be chrome plated steel, polished stainless steel, occasionally plated plastic and yes, plated aluminum. Bare aluminum would oxidize quickly if used as trim.
Could you cite some specific examples of cars that are equipped with aluminum trim?
@@FranksModelWorksmy 1974 Mustang II used chrome plated steel trim, as you wrote. Originally a northern car (road salt 🤬) I had to replace most of it. The Ford letters on nose piece (fiberglass) and galloping horse on the grill were some sort of white metal or pot metal with little pimples of corrosion, but not aluminum, far too heavy. The grill was chromed plastic. My 1984 Ford Bronco II also had chrome plated steel trim. I don't recall about my '82 Datsun King Cab, but my two 1984 Mazda RX-7s had blackened (painted or powder coated) steel trim, but only very little. All my later cars used black plastic.
Barbados rex just did a chrome test with a paint from Etsy and it's legit and you can clear over it think we might of found the holy grail lol but it too is really expensive
I use Molotow! Just kidding. I actually don’t use it but in small areas. My go to is still BMF that is if you can get a good sheet
@@ruckusrodkustom8140 that’s the problem…they’re only “good sheets” for what seems like 47 minutes after they arrive at my local hobby shop…drives me crazy.
Great tutorial Frank
I am surprised UA-camrs in the modeling genre don't make April fools videos. Could totally see someone carefully brushing on the silver Never Zees paste for the chrome bombers and trim in an April Fools video.
@@ChoppersModelworks shhhh! They’ll hear you and do it!
I think I may have detected a slight hint of agitation in your voice. Seriously though, you may want to ignore the negative comments. Your content stands on its own and I for one look forward to your next video each time you post one.
@@wisner6 UA-cam has a wonderful feature called “hide from channel”…it’s like a shadow ban. Once I hide someone from the channel, they think they’re posting comments as THEY can see them, but no one else can, including me. They get the smug satisfaction of what they think is shutting me up, meanwhile, I never even see their posts.
And it’s one and done. When they make a mean comment, they’re gone. I’m more angry at the damage those idiots do on forums and Facebook groups.
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣 In the first 2 seconds!!! (Wait that's about how long that stuff stays chrome for me too). An excellent expose on gatekeeping. Just last week I went off on 2 tw@ts that were adamant that gloss coating a model is absolutely required for good decal adhesion (doesn't do $#!+ for adhesion, just helps with silvering), and literally used the exact phrase "We've been building for over 60 years so we know what we are talking about" and one claimed that the other was "one of the greatest model builders in the history of the hobby...." so everyone needed to shut up and respect their authority. Freaking neckbeards...
I didn't know Tamiya came out with a foil.
Pffft... It took me 3 years just to get to the point that I could start getting paid my 35 cents a video lol. I agree we definitely aren't making a living, It's a labor of love.
Are you thinning the Revell with anything or is it just decant it into a bottle and let it gas off?
I didn't see the link to the high school graduation.
@@JHartModelworks no thinning of the Revell Chrom is necessary.
Unfortunately, my HS graduation video was on a BBS hosted by Earthlink. I tried to punch it up on the Ask Jeeves, and couldn’t find it. It’s for the best…I was BOMBED at my high school graduation.
Fenderlips....didn't he beat up Rocky?? 🤔🤔🤭😄😉
@@mikekuczaboski8313 I once knew a girl….
Nevermind😂
@FranksModelWorks 🤣😂
Greetings from the 51st State 🤣It is great to have you back online. Yup I agree, BMF is a no go for me. I have used Bare Metal Foil glue, as you did, but stayed clear of BMF. I used the very thin metal wrappers from certain chocolate bars: the foil is much thinner than BMF, easier to burnish, and to cut. I have never used Revell Chrome so am going to pick a can up. Here is some insanity for my Southern neighbor: Tamiya spray cans are now banned in Canada, as of December 31, 2024!!!! Yup, Governor Trudeau is a supreme clown.
Game on, again! I was about to give up on 3D printing due to the inability to print the glass pieces. Then, I stumbled across this video. The vacuum former is only $100, allegedly, and it completes the parts list. ua-cam.com/video/5D0gpPcnCqo/v-deo.html So, I'm back on track to get into the 3D aspect of things. Again, Thank you Frank for being a guiding light.
I’ve found if you mask with Bare Metal Foil, then apply some Testors Silver Chrome Trim, rub your fingers all over it (only after it has dried for 2 weeks), then apply some heavily stretched Hasegawa Mirror Chrome, the results are… Wait, what was this video about? Oh yeah, masking Mod Tops with even more Bare Metal Foil. Did those really come on Chargers? I have no idea, but I’ll leave my gate open if you wanna stop by. You can help me organize my stash while we sniff chrome paint to figure out which ones are “enamely”. No, that’s a terrible idea. Video on!
@@timkustom I say enamel-y because I don’t like saying “Naptha”. It reminds me of having a lisp and trying to say “Napster” with a NY accent….kinda like the people who don’t like the word “moist” or “wedge”.
You do fantastic work Frank. Bare metal foil stresses me out too. I might get better at it some day.
It's not us, Tim. It's the product.
Another great video! Just my opinion but, I think you need to stop focusing so much about the comments section and just do what you do. I'm afraid it will burn you out and make you stop making videos and that loss of knowledge being passed on will be a loss to the community.
@@stevearms1321 I would, but I have to read the comments to answer people’s questions. Or they email me. Or message me on other social media. They’re energy vampires, and they can be relentless.
I want to be able to interact with the people who watch my content, and believe me…they know that…which is why some of them do what they do.
If I were to stop responding altogether, then they’ll scour the comment section and start with other commenters.
If it’s annoying, I usually just ignore it. There are about 50 people who are blocked from this channel for the despicable things they’ve said here.
New to the channel, lovin it!! But what is neck beard? 😂😂
A neck beard is someone who is like the “Comic book store guy” on The Simpsons…basically a know it all who’s just here to spot errors and correct them…not to worry anyone, but to demonstrate their magnificence. Sometimes it’s inaccuracies, others it’s flaw-spotting. Most can’t help it, but it doesn’t make them less annoying.
@@FranksModelWorks ok thank you lmao!!
When it comes to joints in the bare metal foil (yes I do strips. I'm not wasting my money tracing tiny trim out of 2 square inches of this stuff) they never bothered me. Look at real trim. Does it come as one piece on a real car? Hell no. If you want to get fussy then you should have joints. So now be prepared for a magnifying glass looking to make sure you have joints in the right places. And not having joints counts against you.
Thank you Frank for all of your information!!
They all look great but I can't wait to see the candy cherry and sunset orange Mustang finished. It's already beautiful.
The gatekeeping is why I left Facebook and came here. Too much negativity there.
@@BigSkyModelWorkshop that is where most of it takes place. There’s some here, but it’s easily avoidable…most people don’t read the comments here, and as content creators, we can just ignore trolls, or hide them.
Gatekeeping is what killed special interest forums for the most part. Facebook offered a one-stop shop for gatekeepers to troll numerous special interests in one place.
Great video. Here's the link to the holy grail of chrome lol and yes I haven't used it lol looks good on video lol
ua-cam.com/video/bcbNlbwULlU/v-deo.htmlsi=hSyCBvcl-EOxrmFr
Aluminum tape. The chrome pens are just okay. But aluminum tape, if you do it correctly, is the BEST option for all chrom trim on models. Full stop. Been building for just over 37 years, and I can easily say there is nothing that can compete. Cut to size, apply, polish, and clear on you will have the most amazing looking chrome trim you can have.
@@gazeldiron6908 cool. Thanks for not watching the video.