My friend, I am not a photograph or having a studio, just was interested to see how this process work because I want to do one large panorama photo of Miami in that style. You are one of the best presenters of your profession and skills, super interesting to watch and listen, and what is most important, someone who is literally sharing all of his great knowledge with a people for free, which is in today's world very rare. Thank you very much, this are great videos, and if I decide to make my photo face-mounted to acrylic you will be the one who will get the job. Best regards from Belgrade, Serbia. Mirko
I'm curious. In Korea, these acrylic frame manufacturing methods are divided into two. 1. Apply glue to acrylic, glue the image, and attach it to dibond when it is dried. 2. Use a double-sided film and tape like drytec. Is there a reason why your company has a better manufacturing method? Is there a phenomenon that it turns yellow over time? I'd like to get advice on this part.
in 44th and 45th second you are speaking about what is the white material on the actryl.. I dont really understand what it is. Could you please response me what it exactly is? Thank you very much, Eduard
First of all sorry for my English.I just bought drytac optical clear film.on the video i have seen your photograph is glossy just before the film was applied.I used many papers Luster glossy matte,but not good results.I can see the tiny point of the paper surface metallized points.Please,can you suggest the best paper brand and surface? Someone says Polypropilene paper.Thank you in advance.Alessandro from Capri in Italy.
I'm curious if he has a page or website i need info from this man I got a question and none of the so called professionals can answer my question, lol🤣💯
What papers do you recommend for Face Mounting? I would appreciate brand and type if possible. I use an Epson 9900 printer, therefore I am looking for digital papers.
from my experience most smooth glossy photo paper work. I like the heavier paper as they are easier to handle. As for printing on Epson, am not sure of your paper name because I'm a Canon guy. However, you will want to use a smooth paper to minimize silvering.
To adhere the image to the dibond, as shown in the video about 7 minutes in, you use a doble sided adhesive. About 7:50 in you will see David pull back a release liner, the double sided adhesive was already applied to the dibond. The double sided adhesive to use will depend on your hanging system. If you are using standoffs like David shows in the final product, you can use SureTac which he used. If you are doing a cleat/ floating hanging system, you will need a higher shear strength double sided adhesive which would be FaceMount, or OptiTac will also work. Do not use OptiTac for the face image as you will want the highest grade optically clear mounting adhesive for that which is FaceMount.
I can't decide whether to start selling facemount acrylic prints or flatbed uv printed acrylic for my new art business, can you help me out? Im gathering a lot of info but I would love to hear your thoughts
My thoughts on direct print to acrylic vs. Face-Mounted images to Acrylic. When direct printing to acrylic, there are some things to consider, for instance the inks themselves. UV inks are typically more topographic or 3 dimensional. This effect created by the layering of the inks can cause a halo of trapped air in the high to low areas. This will cause an area of what in the industry is called silvering. This is where there is not any contact between the adhesive and the inks / image. You may be able to get these with another pass of the laminator, or more direct pressure with a burnishing felt squeegee. Whatever you mount this to, you must make sure you use an adhesive that will support the weight of the acrylic to the backer. You should know that Acrylic front and acrylic back makes for the most stable finished piece because both the front and back will acclimate to the environment equally. If you have an Acrylic front and rigid backer like Dibond, you could have issues with adhesion later due to temperature and humidity which will affect the Acrylic, but not the Dibond. I am not sure how much depth you get with UV inks direct printed on Acrylic vs Face Mounted images. Face Mounted images can have different finishes to the print themselves like the metallic papers. Some printers do offer the metallic inks not too, so that is a bonus. Face Mounted Images are like the UV direct print in only one way. You are looking through the Acrylic to the image. Face Mounted images will be printed on a media of preferable glossy finish with a smooth RA ( Roughness Average). It is like sandpaper the lower the number the rougher it is. The smoother the finish of the media, the better results you will get. A rougher RA will result in silvering, which is not a desirable finished product. There are several media to choose from but know that a paper-based material may fail in this process dependent on how thick of Acrylic you use, temperature and humidity will affect it as well. I have seen where there have been flexing issues due to Acrylic front, Dibond backer, and paper media. The paper separated, ½ was still stuck to the Acrylic, and ½ was stuck to the Dibond. If you are going to go the paper process, I suggest speaking with the manufacturers about what process you are going to use the images/paper for. There are synthetic papers out there as well, which will not separate. If you are only going to use a UV printer for this process, then I would suggest getting a sample roll of FaceMount, print media, and some practice acrylic to test what your result will be before purchasing an entire stock of material. I work with Latex and Eco Solvent printers mainly here, but a lot of people in the art industry are using Aqueous printers. I believe because they are less expensive, but there only a few companies out there providing material for these printers. Drytac does not carry a many Aqueous products. Whatever process you choose, you must use a high-quality high shear strength double sided adhesive like FaceMount. This product was designed for this process, as it has a very high shear strength. You want this so your images do not slide down the backer or separate from the backer. Remember that the best result will always be the Acrylic front and backer. - Steve Y.
@@DRYTAC Thanks a LOT on this reply Stevem. It is really hard to find good information on this matter, mostly comes out of experts like you. I am still looking into ways to produce the product and one of those now is company in NL which has 40 years of experience in printing. They use the facemount + dibond combination you are talking about. They have offered that for a long time so I will ask them their experience with humidity etc. Shouldn't be that much of a problem here in the Netherlands in someones home or office. They also offer glossy and metallic paper, metallic is a bit more expensive. I will go to their showroom to see the differences. Ill look for another supplier which is a bit cheaper who does facemounting first, in Europe. But it is REALLY hard to find. I also need to see if I can find the right buyers and sellers in this market
@@DRYTAC One last thing, this is what I also find on supplier websites sometimes. But what do they mean with printing directly on the backside of clear acrylic? The pictures look like it is facemounted. But this is not how it sounds.: ''Seamless process By printing directly on the backside of clear acrylic, your photo will appear in its purest form. After printing we seal the print with a white rigid backing. This not only protects your print but ensures longevity. For a finishing touch, we polish the edges to create a seamless and luminous look. Hanging your print For your convenience, prints come ready to display with an aluminium hanging system. This backing is easy to hang and creates a freefloating effect. Technical details 4mm thick acrylic with 3mm white AluDibond backing Always direct print on acrylic for best results''
@@richburmond6761 Direct printing to Acrylic is done with a UV printer and it prints directly onto the Acrylic on a flatbed printer. The UV inks are layered, so it can get a 3d effect to the inks which can be hard to mount to as this can create a halo of trapped air around an image. They are then mounting that Acrylic to a white Dibond (aluminum, polypro, aluminum sandwich). This white backer is eliminating them needing to print white ink which is expensive, time consuming, and white inks have been known to be brittle in the UV printers due to the high Titanium Dioxide. Here is a conversation about this method from a highly reputable applications expert.: Please keep in mind that traditional face-mounting typically uses a glossy, extremely smooth image. When trying to achieve the same look by printing directly onto a surface, you are creating your own “nightmare”.
We are all aware that UV cured inks set in an uneven pattern depending on the color. These peaks and valleys are the major cause for the failure.
I have tested various, comparatively, higher coat-weight adhesives and seen the same symptom issue of uneven adhesion which eventually can cause a failure.
This is not an easy one to resolve.
A few suggestions … Allow the inks to gas out (as we all know, this helps a lot). Apply a vinyl film (with compatible adhesive, of course) onto the inks, then continue the process using Facemount. This method offers an improved bond.
After the image is printed, flood coat white onto the inks, allow to gas out, then run tests with Carrier-free Optitac.
Please note: when laminating/mounting on UV cured inks, regardless of the mounting system used, the shear between the adhesive and the inks will be less than when mounting onto a smooth surface.
Kevin Rosinbum The product we are promoting in this video is Drytac's Facemount (visit: www.drytac.com/facemount.html) which is a registered trademark.
I love that type of wall mount. You are a great presenter, always smiling and yet professional. Thanks for sharing!
Outstanding presentation and exemplary communication skills! Extremely well done in all regards. Picked up some great tips here.
My friend, I am not a photograph or having a studio, just was interested to see how this process work because I want to do one large panorama photo of Miami in that style. You are one of the best presenters of your profession and skills, super interesting to watch and listen, and what is most important, someone who is literally sharing all of his great knowledge with a people for free, which is in today's world very rare.
Thank you very much, this are great videos, and if I decide to make my photo face-mounted to acrylic you will be the one who will get the job. Best regards from Belgrade, Serbia. Mirko
Why did I never find this till now. Awesome info beautifully shot and so clear and concise. THANK YOU!
Excelente
I know it’s old but fascinating stuff!
This video deserves a million like! Thanks for sharing!
By far the best videos to this topic. Thank you very much!
El mejor
PROFESSIONAL!!! thank for showing us..
Great video that shows how easy something very tricky can look when done properly!
+Thomas Giantomaso Thank you!
Great video. Thank you! The only thing I couldn't find is what adhesive you used on Dibond for attaching backing?
Thank you for all the detailed steps!!! Glad I found this video! I Just subscribed! AWESOME!
I love this, it’s so explanatory.
Fantastic job: Thanks for sharing your technics.
outstanding. thanks for a very good demo. now i understand the process very well.
Very good job sir, thank you for sharing
I love it great job sir!
Hello Sir
I'm Leonard from cameroon
Please which paper did you use for your digital print?
I'm curious.
In Korea, these acrylic frame manufacturing methods are divided into two.
1. Apply glue to acrylic, glue the image, and attach it to dibond when it is dried.
2. Use a double-sided film and tape like drytec.
Is there a reason why your company has a better manufacturing method?
Is there a phenomenon that it turns yellow over time?
I'd like to get advice on this part.
Really liked this video valuable lesson love it
Very good job sir thank you
I have a question: is there any adhesive on the surface of the paper that helps it stick to the acrylic sheet?
in 44th and 45th second you are speaking about what is the white material on the actryl.. I dont really understand what it is. Could you please response me what it exactly is? Thank you very much, Eduard
Excelente trabajo, muy bueno
First of all sorry for my English.I just bought drytac optical clear film.on the video i have seen your photograph is glossy just before the film was applied.I used many papers Luster glossy matte,but not good results.I can see the tiny point of the paper surface metallized points.Please,can you suggest the best paper brand and surface? Someone says Polypropilene paper.Thank you in advance.Alessandro from Capri in Italy.
I'm curious if he has a page or website i need info from this man I got a question and none of the so called professionals can answer my question, lol🤣💯
Can you please tell me what was used to make the table top in the training videos. Fantastic Teacher.
Can this process be done on a framed canvas, where I have done a painting?
What is the release material used in that “sled”?
Great video!
Do I need a laminator to mount to acrylic?
Good Job Pro :)
What papers do you recommend for Face Mounting? I would appreciate brand and type if possible. I use an Epson 9900 printer, therefore I am looking for digital papers.
from my experience most smooth glossy photo paper work. I like the heavier paper as they are easier to handle. As for printing on Epson, am not sure of your paper name because I'm a Canon guy. However, you will want to use a smooth paper to minimize silvering.
will you please tell where to buy plexi glass acrylic, they are too many of them. i want to buy to the right place.. thanks
Make sure it is extruded, not cast acrylic. Plexiglas comes from Evonik. You can find it under other brands though.
Hello, how do you glue the photo to the acrylic and the acrylic to the dibon? It´s double side optical clear adhesive?
To adhere the image to the dibond, as shown in the video about 7 minutes in, you use a doble sided adhesive. About 7:50 in you will see David pull back a release liner, the double sided adhesive was already applied to the dibond. The double sided adhesive to use will depend on your hanging system. If you are using standoffs like David shows in the final product, you can use SureTac which he used. If you are doing a cleat/ floating hanging system, you will need a higher shear strength double sided adhesive which would be FaceMount, or OptiTac will also work. Do not use OptiTac for the face image as you will want the highest grade optically clear mounting adhesive for that which is FaceMount.
@@DRYTAC Please brief me paper details and pasting material details if possible sir
very good video ..... I am rizal from Indonesia where I can buy plastic material to attach the image to acrylic ... thank you
Hi! Please contact bristol@drytac.com and they would be happy to help with the material you are looking for.
www.drytac.com/product/facemounthighquality/#1528743135810-22d14ded-797f
www.drytac.com/
Great video. Where can i find those stand offs.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LE1HH54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Please brief me paper details and pasting material purchase place sir
I can't decide whether to start selling facemount acrylic prints or flatbed uv printed acrylic for my new art business, can you help me out? Im gathering a lot of info but I would love to hear your thoughts
My thoughts on direct print to acrylic vs. Face-Mounted images to Acrylic.
When direct printing to acrylic, there are some things to consider, for instance the inks themselves. UV inks are typically more topographic or 3 dimensional. This effect created by the layering of the inks can cause a halo of trapped air in the high to low areas. This will cause an area of what in the industry is called silvering. This is where there is not any contact between the adhesive and the inks / image. You may be able to get these with another pass of the laminator, or more direct pressure with a burnishing felt squeegee. Whatever you mount this to, you must make sure you use an adhesive that will support the weight of the acrylic to the backer. You should know that Acrylic front and acrylic back makes for the most stable finished piece because both the front and back will acclimate to the environment equally. If you have an Acrylic front and rigid backer like Dibond, you could have issues with adhesion later due to temperature and humidity which will affect the Acrylic, but not the Dibond. I am not sure how much depth you get with UV inks direct printed on Acrylic vs Face Mounted images. Face Mounted images can have different finishes to the print themselves like the metallic papers. Some printers do offer the metallic inks not too, so that is a bonus.
Face Mounted Images are like the UV direct print in only one way. You are looking through the Acrylic to the image. Face Mounted images will be printed on a media of preferable glossy finish with a smooth RA ( Roughness Average). It is like sandpaper the lower the number the rougher it is. The smoother the finish of the media, the better results you will get. A rougher RA will result in silvering, which is not a desirable finished product. There are several media to choose from but know that a paper-based material may fail in this process dependent on how thick of Acrylic you use, temperature and humidity will affect it as well. I have seen where there have been flexing issues due to Acrylic front, Dibond backer, and paper media. The paper separated, ½ was still stuck to the Acrylic, and ½ was stuck to the Dibond. If you are going to go the paper process, I suggest speaking with the manufacturers about what process you are going to use the images/paper for. There are synthetic papers out there as well, which will not separate.
If you are only going to use a UV printer for this process, then I would suggest getting a sample roll of FaceMount, print media, and some practice acrylic to test what your result will be before purchasing an entire stock of material. I work with Latex and Eco Solvent printers mainly here, but a lot of people in the art industry are using Aqueous printers. I believe because they are less expensive, but there only a few companies out there providing material for these printers. Drytac does not carry a many Aqueous products.
Whatever process you choose, you must use a high-quality high shear strength double sided adhesive like FaceMount. This product was designed for this process, as it has a very high shear strength. You want this so your images do not slide down the backer or separate from the backer. Remember that the best result will always be the Acrylic front and backer.
- Steve Y.
@@DRYTAC Thanks a LOT on this reply Stevem. It is really hard to find good information on this matter, mostly comes out of experts like you. I am still looking into ways to produce the product and one of those now is company in NL which has 40 years of experience in printing. They use the facemount + dibond combination you are talking about. They have offered that for a long time so I will ask them their experience with humidity etc. Shouldn't be that much of a problem here in the Netherlands in someones home or office.
They also offer glossy and metallic paper, metallic is a bit more expensive. I will go to their showroom to see the differences. Ill look for another supplier which is a bit cheaper who does facemounting first, in Europe. But it is REALLY hard to find. I also need to see if I can find the right buyers and sellers in this market
@@DRYTAC One last thing, this is what I also find on supplier websites sometimes. But what do they mean with printing directly on the backside of clear acrylic? The pictures look like it is facemounted. But this is not how it sounds.:
''Seamless process
By printing directly on the backside of clear acrylic, your photo will appear in its purest form. After printing we seal the print with a white rigid backing. This not only protects your print but ensures longevity. For a finishing touch, we polish the edges to create a seamless and luminous look.
Hanging your print
For your convenience, prints come ready to display with an aluminium hanging system. This backing is easy to hang and creates a freefloating effect.
Technical details
4mm thick acrylic with 3mm white AluDibond backing
Always direct print on acrylic for best results''
@@richburmond6761 Direct printing to Acrylic is done with a UV printer and it prints directly onto the Acrylic on a flatbed printer. The UV inks are layered, so it can get a 3d effect to the inks which can be hard to mount to as this can create a halo of trapped air around an image. They are then mounting that Acrylic to a white Dibond (aluminum, polypro, aluminum sandwich). This white backer is eliminating them needing to print white ink which is expensive, time consuming, and white inks have been known to be brittle in the UV printers due to the high Titanium Dioxide.
Here is a conversation about this method from a highly reputable applications expert.:
Please keep in mind that traditional face-mounting typically uses a glossy, extremely smooth image.
When trying to achieve the same look by printing directly onto a surface, you are creating your own “nightmare”.
We are all aware that UV cured inks set in an uneven pattern depending on the color.
These peaks and valleys are the major cause for the failure.
I have tested various, comparatively, higher coat-weight adhesives and seen the same symptom issue of uneven adhesion which eventually can cause a failure.
This is not an easy one to resolve.
A few suggestions …
Allow the inks to gas out (as we all know, this helps a lot).
Apply a vinyl film (with compatible adhesive, of course) onto the inks, then continue the process using Facemount.
This method offers an improved bond.
After the image is printed, flood coat white onto the inks, allow to gas out, then run tests with Carrier-free Optitac.
Please note: when laminating/mounting on UV cured inks, regardless of the mounting system used,
the shear between the adhesive and the inks will be less than when mounting onto a smooth surface.
Where can I get that tray for the DRS roller? Drytac says they don't offer it!
Brian Valente We can advise on purchasing the tray. Please email us at marketing@drytac.com for more information.
www.amazon.com/Dust-Removal-System-Roller-Kit/dp/B07CSGX59G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=drs+roller&qid=1549976593&s=office-products&sr=1-1-catcorr
nice
I WNT TO PURCHASE THIS MACHINE PLEASE GUIDE ME
Hi! Please email customerservice@drytac.com.
GR8
Are you serious that you have actually trademarked the term "Facemount"? That seems awfully excessive.
Kevin Rosinbum The product we are promoting in this video is Drytac's Facemount (visit: www.drytac.com/facemount.html) which is a registered trademark.