Hi, I don't have the big fancy lamination machine, however Drytac ML-25 Manual Table-Top Laminator (25.5"). I noticed in this video he's using heated roller (@ 109f). Is the heat necessary and if why, also is there a facemount that does't require heat to apply and get excellent results.
Hello Anthony, Heat is not absolutely necessary, but it helps "wet out" the adhesive. This makes it softer and makes contact better. If you have an image that is not completely smooth, then you will get tiny little air bubbles called silvering. On the smaller Laminators, it will be difficult to get pressure, because going more than 1/2 turn past contact can cause damage to the unit. If you have any other questions - www.drytac.com/contact-us/, our technical department would be happy to help!
Great series thanks. Do you finish the edges of the acrylic prior to face mounting or After? I noticed you finished the acrylic edges before mounting, but during your face mount video it appears the edge is not finished, the paper is still completely on
Excellent videos! I bought a Drytac 26" laminator because of these videos, now I need to start using it :-) Can you tell me about the table you're using? Is it a custom table or something that can be purchased?
The print media and the acrylic has to be absolutely smooth and non porous. Photo Metallic paper works. Smooth gloss films work, fujiflex paper. If you are getting silvering it could be that the print needs to sit for 24 hours to go away or the acrylic is not smooth.
It's like he found immortality! You didn't need to explain this long. It's a pretty simple thing. You are exaggerating so that no one will learn about this business.
Are you able to use the same release liner from the face mount adhesive (without pulling off the one side) or is it a different product. Obviously, its white. . . so didn't know what I needed to pick up.
Hello, I am trying to laminate a 24 inch x 24 inch picture and always get wrinkles after the facemount pases through the laminator. What am I doing wrong? Need urgent assistance.
Wrinkles are caused by uneven pressure of the rollers or by a print not started nice and straight on the leader board. The print must conform to the roller to prevent air entrapment or the image from wrinkling when it is being pulled through the rollers.
Thank you. What procedure should I follow to prevent this? You are saying that the print is not started nice on the leader board. What video should I watch to see the correct procedure?
I am always using a sled. The problem is that the wrinkles appear when laminating. My laminator is a jm-26 and it does not have the upper that the one in your video has to place the tube on, so I am not using any tube. What can I do?
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El mejor
The plastic tube trick is GENIUS!
Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge. =)
what is the name of the double sided film you are using. I am having trouble finding a supplier to get started.
what kind of the roller that you use for removing dust from the image?
Holy Jason Bateman!
Love your videos!
Where can I get that DRS ROLLER??
Hi, I don't have the big fancy lamination machine, however Drytac ML-25 Manual Table-Top Laminator (25.5"). I noticed in this video he's using heated roller (@ 109f). Is the heat necessary and if why, also is there a facemount that does't require heat to apply and get excellent results.
Hello Anthony,
Heat is not absolutely necessary, but it helps "wet out" the adhesive. This makes it softer and makes contact better. If you have an image that is not completely smooth, then you will get tiny little air bubbles called silvering. On the smaller Laminators, it will be difficult to get pressure, because going more than 1/2 turn past contact can cause damage to the unit. If you have any other questions - www.drytac.com/contact-us/, our technical department would be happy to help!
is this double sided facemount???
Great series thanks. Do you finish the edges of the acrylic prior to face mounting or After? I noticed you finished the acrylic edges before mounting, but during your face mount video it appears the edge is not finished, the paper is still completely on
Brian Valente Yes, the edge of the acrylic should be finished beforehand in most circumstances.
Excellent videos! I bought a Drytac 26" laminator because of these videos, now I need to start using it :-) Can you tell me about the table you're using? Is it a custom table or something that can be purchased?
It is a completely custom table that the person in the video made for his needs.
Hello Anil, have you had any luck with the drytac laminator? I havent been able to succesfully laminate large images without getting wrinkles.
Hi, could you specify which paper you use? I tried "epson premium glossy" but still got a very small amount of "silvering". Thanks for your answer
The print media and the acrylic has to be absolutely smooth and non
porous. Photo Metallic paper works. Smooth gloss films work, fujiflex
paper. If you are getting silvering it could be that the print needs to
sit for 24 hours to go away or the acrylic is not smooth.
can you suggest a home laminator? thanks
hi, where do i get the rule for the crte. Thank you
It's like he found immortality! You didn't need to explain this long. It's a pretty simple thing. You are exaggerating so that no one will learn about this business.
Hi mister can i ask you about this project i likte to work on it can you help.me ?!!!
What is the material used to create the sled? The non-stick?
Hi Brain! We use the release liner from a double-sided adhesive to clear the non-stick portion of the sled.
Are you able to use the same release liner from the face mount adhesive (without pulling off the one side) or is it a different product. Obviously, its white. . . so didn't know what I needed to pick up.
You can! I would recommend a cheaper one so you can save your Facemount for your work! Any double-sided mounting adhesvie + release liner would work.
Hello, I am trying to laminate a 24 inch x 24 inch picture and always get wrinkles after the facemount pases through the laminator. What am I doing wrong? Need urgent assistance.
Wrinkles are caused by uneven pressure of the rollers or by a print not started nice and straight on the leader board. The print must conform to the roller to prevent air entrapment or the image from wrinkling when it is being pulled through the rollers.
Thank you. What procedure should I follow to prevent this? You are saying that the print is not started nice on the leader board. What video should I watch to see the correct procedure?
Watch chapter 3 again for more information and use a sled.
I am always using a sled. The problem is that the wrinkles appear when laminating. My laminator is a jm-26 and it does not have the upper that the one in your video has to place the tube on, so I am not using any tube. What can I do?
Is there any way I can send you a video of what I am doing so you can tell me what part of my process is wrong, and how can I improve it?
With all the equipment required it's no wonder that in the U.K virtually no company does face mounting.
It's clear mounting film search in Google
Optical clear mounting / c2c clear mounting film
@@bigbulltrade12 Is that your reply to my question, because it doesn't make sense.