***Attention*** Make sure your saddle has genuine suede before doing this. Bonded leather can look a lot like suede, but washing it can ruin it if you’re not careful. Contact the saddle maker if you’re not sure whether it’s suede or bonded leather.
I finally cleaned my saddle after years of heavy use from drill team. Sadly, I think the suede on my seat is stripped (some parts have no fuzzy texture) so using the dremel piece was just scratching it up in spots (I tested a small area first). The roughout cleaning part on your other video worked WONDERS though. My saddle looks 10 times better than it did before. Wish I'd known how to take care of it better until now. Thanks for your informational videos!
I just want to say Thank You So Much for making this video! There is so little information out there on this specific topic, and this video was a godsend! A friend recently loaned me a saddle that has been sitting in a barn for ages, without being cared for. After giving the whole thing a thorough washing I'm using this method to restore the seat and it is looking almost good as new already!❤
Great videos! Do you have any tips/recommendations for offering a saddle cleaning service? What are the legal aspects that need to be considered? Do you have to have a contract with each client? Thank you! 😊
Good question. I highly recommend liability insurance, and I don't personally do contracts. But I do keep the customer updated through the entire process to make sure everything is being done to their satisfaction.
Good question! I use a course grit. My Dremel kit came with a 60 grit sandpaper, which is what I used in the video. Course grit grabs the fibers of the suede better and pulls them up. Just remember to sand it by hand. DO NOT use it while it’s on the Dremel, that will ruin the leather in the blink of an eye.
Is suede as durable as top grain leather. I am new to this and stitching new buckets seats for my 67 C10. I would be nice to know what products you used. All I have is original "Mink Oil" and still not sure to use in the center of my seats. Two reasons; First, I work on vehicles for 40+ years and sick of "Mono-Tone" interiors. Suede slight darker brown or slightly lighter would give a pleasant contrast to the buckets. This will be my daily driver, a childhood salute to the 65 Apache C10. The body is a medium copper with clear, white top. With few A/C vehicles, white reflects heat, but a period correct look. Please comment as info is learning regardless of age. I have decades behind me as an ASE Master Tech but sew, build, fabricate, body and paint. Well, just for me at this time! Thanks for the video info! Have a lucky one!
I believe suede is not as durable as top grain. But I would recommend reaching out to an upholstery specialist for more info. Thank you for your interest!
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning Thank you for this info. Even in Omaha bigger than St. Louis yet I have to purchase leather or suede from an internet company. I want a contrast in the seats, yet a long, durable product. Like rubber air bags that may last 3-5 yrs. yet coil springs are much cheaper and last 50yrs. Thanks!
Thank you! I like the sand paper to be really coarse. I think this one is 60 grit. Just note, please don't use the actual dremel tool or you'll damage the leather. Just sand it carefully by hand. :)
Could I use Leather new oil on the suede? Also why does the oil have to be warm? Does it help penetrate the material better? Thank you for your video. Amazing difference! I was worried about working on the suede seat on my saddle and your video gave me the confidence and knowledge I needed 😀
Hi! Thanks for watching! That's a great question. Personally I'm not a fan of leather new or any "all in one" type products. I recommend a pure oil to start with and then a conditioner afterwards to interact with the oil and help soften the leather. In this video I use extra virgin olive oil, but PURE neatsfoot oil is also great. The reason I heat the oil before hand is it penetrates the into the leather pores much better than cold oil will. Also the heat will thin the oil enough to keep you from over oiling the leather (especially suede) :)
I am following your method to clean a black suede saddle seat. I have just finished the first sanding and given it one coat of oil. It's looking a lot better already, but there's still one smoother area than the rest. After I condition it, should I still do a second sanding? I am just concerned about finishing it in deep black rather than sanding it to a lighter color, such as your demonstration on the brown suede seat. Many thanks!
Good question! It really depends on what's going on with the suede. If the smooth spot on the suede is actually wearing thin, then it will wear smooth due to the nap fibers being worn away. This cannot be helped without replacing the seat. But if the smooth area is still in great shape and just stuck down, then sanding it again should be fine. As far as the color goes, suede is generally dyed all the way through. So the color should stay consistent despite sanding. However, Black is one of the toughest dye colors to keep from fading or wearing away. Just keep an eye on it as you clean and sand it. Hope this helps! Thanks! -HASC
I actually did not sand the pommel at all since that is slick leather. This saddle just has been used heavily, so it appears really patchy when the leather is dried out.
How can I lighten my chaps to a more natural look? They are factory dyed tan now. Not sure I like the rodeo chap look as I just needed work chaps and a little weathered and blotchy is kinda cool.
Hi, so i followed these directions to a T, but my roughout looks super blotchy. Any advice? I know i didnt oil or condition too heavy, i was very sparing.
It will usually look blotchy at first, but over time that should even out. Also the "fluffier" the roughout nap is, the less blotchy it will look. So if you nap is really short, then it will look more uneven at first.
Yes! As long as it is genuine leather, and not bonded. Lexol "All Leather Conditioner" is the one I recommend in the video, and neatsfoot should be just fine for the seat so long as it's not applied too heavily :) Happy cleaning!
Check with your manufacturer to know for sure. Suede seats are usually thinner leather that is sewn in and padded. Rough out is the full hide, and much heavier.
I assume it’s rough out. But without seeing the saddle, I would advise you to google the difference between split leather and rough out. That might help give you an idea. The process for cleaning rough out is very similar to cleaning suede.
You'll find that most leather products say they are "not recommended" for suede. However, I've found that the Lexol All Leather Conditioner works very well due to its non-greasy finish. There are lots of other products and methods that may work, but this is what has worked well for me. Good luck!
I've recently purchased a rough out saddle with an ivory sueded seat. It's used and needs cleaning. I also want to stain the seat darker, chocolate brown or at least a chestnut color. What dyes can a person use, how do you do it and do you have a video about it?
I've never used mink oil cream, but any creamy/waxy substances I would steer clear from for suede. They often have a bad habit of sticking the nap back down again. Hope this helps!
How do you the oil out of it, if a spot got too much oil ? I have a saddle that looks like one spot near the edge got too much oil and I cant figure out had to soak it out. I tried washing it with dawn and its didnt help
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
***Attention*** Make sure your saddle has genuine suede before doing this. Bonded leather can look a lot like suede, but washing it can ruin it if you’re not careful. Contact the saddle maker if you’re not sure whether it’s suede or bonded leather.
Thank you for this comment! We checked ours and it’s bonded. Great video!
@@TraditionalFaith Oh good! I'm so glad you were able to catch that!
Nice I learned something
I finally cleaned my saddle after years of heavy use from drill team. Sadly, I think the suede on my seat is stripped (some parts have no fuzzy texture) so using the dremel piece was just scratching it up in spots (I tested a small area first). The roughout cleaning part on your other video worked WONDERS though. My saddle looks 10 times better than it did before. Wish I'd known how to take care of it better until now. Thanks for your informational videos!
I just want to say Thank You So Much for making this video! There is so little information out there on this specific topic, and this video was a godsend!
A friend recently loaned me a saddle that has been sitting in a barn for ages, without being cared for. After giving the whole thing a thorough washing I'm using this method to restore the seat and it is looking almost good as new already!❤
I'm so glad this video was helpful! There's nothing like seeing suede come back to life :)
Wow! This looks amazing!!!
Thank you so much :)
Awesome job!
Thank you!
Thank you for this advice.
Thank you for sharing your technique, well done!
Thank you! I hope it was helpful 🤞
Good job! I'm going to do mine now😊
Awesome! Hope it turns out great!
Great videos! Do you have any tips/recommendations for offering a saddle cleaning service? What are the legal aspects that need to be considered? Do you have to have a contract with each client? Thank you! 😊
Good question. I highly recommend liability insurance, and I don't personally do contracts. But I do keep the customer updated through the entire process to make sure everything is being done to their satisfaction.
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning Good to know! Thank you! Any tips for finding clients?
@@heyitsrachelgrace start with people in your circle and work your way outwards. Advertising everywhere you can.
A very informative video, thanks. Can you provide a video tutorial for cleaning rawhide stirrups please?
Thank you! Yes, I've actually got one in the works that I hope to release sometime soon.
This is great thank you 🤗
Thank you! 🙏
Can you do a video on cleaning a slick leather seat? Mine is a yellow color and I’m not sure how to make the color more even 😅
I do plan on doing more videos soon. Thank you for the suggestion!
What grit on sandpaper please😊
Good question! I use a course grit. My Dremel kit came with a 60 grit sandpaper, which is what I used in the video.
Course grit grabs the fibers of the suede better and pulls them up.
Just remember to sand it by hand. DO NOT use it while it’s on the Dremel, that will ruin the leather in the blink of an eye.
@Hanging Arrow Saddle Cleaning Thanks so much for your quick response, I'm looking forward to using your techniques.
Is suede as durable as top grain leather. I am new to this and stitching new buckets seats for my 67 C10. I would be nice to know what products you used. All I have is original "Mink Oil" and still not sure to use in the center of my seats.
Two reasons; First, I work on vehicles for 40+ years and sick of "Mono-Tone" interiors. Suede slight darker brown or slightly lighter would give a pleasant contrast to the buckets. This will be my daily driver, a childhood salute to the 65 Apache C10. The body is a medium copper with clear, white top. With few A/C vehicles, white reflects heat, but a period correct look. Please comment as info is learning regardless of age. I have decades behind me as an ASE Master Tech but sew, build, fabricate, body and paint. Well, just for me at this time! Thanks for the video info! Have a lucky one!
I believe suede is not as durable as top grain. But I would recommend reaching out to an upholstery specialist for more info. Thank you for your interest!
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning Thank you for this info. Even in Omaha bigger than St. Louis yet I have to purchase leather or suede from an internet company.
I want a contrast in the seats, yet a long, durable product. Like rubber air bags that may last 3-5 yrs. yet coil springs are much cheaper and last 50yrs. Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching! Hope it’s helpful.
Ur a magician! Whats the grit you use on the dremel sander?
Thank you! I like the sand paper to be really coarse. I think this one is 60 grit. Just note, please don't use the actual dremel tool or you'll damage the leather. Just sand it carefully by hand. :)
Could I use Leather new oil on the suede? Also why does the oil have to be warm? Does it help penetrate the material better?
Thank you for your video. Amazing difference! I was worried about working on the suede seat on my saddle and your video gave me the confidence and knowledge I needed 😀
Hi! Thanks for watching! That's a great question. Personally I'm not a fan of leather new or any "all in one" type products. I recommend a pure oil to start with and then a conditioner afterwards to interact with the oil and help soften the leather.
In this video I use extra virgin olive oil, but PURE neatsfoot oil is also great.
The reason I heat the oil before hand is it penetrates the into the leather pores much better than cold oil will. Also the heat will thin the oil enough to keep you from over oiling the leather (especially suede) :)
I am following your method to clean a black suede saddle seat. I have just finished the first sanding and given it one coat of oil. It's looking a lot better already, but there's still one smoother area than the rest. After I condition it, should I still do a second sanding? I am just concerned about finishing it in deep black rather than sanding it to a lighter color, such as your demonstration on the brown suede seat. Many thanks!
Good question! It really depends on what's going on with the suede. If the smooth spot on the suede is actually wearing thin, then it will wear smooth due to the nap fibers being worn away. This cannot be helped without replacing the seat. But if the smooth area is still in great shape and just stuck down, then sanding it again should be fine.
As far as the color goes, suede is generally dyed all the way through. So the color should stay consistent despite sanding. However, Black is one of the toughest dye colors to keep from fading or wearing away. Just keep an eye on it as you clean and sand it. Hope this helps! Thanks!
-HASC
Is neadsfoot oil a good option to use on the suede?
Yes! Just make sure the oil is really warm, and only do a light coat
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning thank you!
Can you also tell me how you sanded down the tooled area of the pommel on this saddle?
I actually did not sand the pommel at all since that is slick leather. This saddle just has been used heavily, so it appears really patchy when the leather is dried out.
How can I lighten my chaps to a more natural look? They are factory dyed tan now. Not sure I like the rodeo chap look as I just needed work chaps and a little weathered and blotchy is kinda cool.
I wouldn't recommend stripping the factory dye as you'll likely damage the leather. The more you use them, the more "weathered" they'll start to look.
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning Thank you
Hi, so i followed these directions to a T, but my roughout looks super blotchy. Any advice? I know i didnt oil or condition too heavy, i was very sparing.
It will usually look blotchy at first, but over time that should even out. Also the "fluffier" the roughout nap is, the less blotchy it will look. So if you nap is really short, then it will look more uneven at first.
Do you think Lexol Leather Tack Cleaner is different than Lexol All Leather Cleaner?
Yes, all leather cleaner is a little less greasy in my opinion. But both should do just fine.
Can I use the Lexol #2 conditioner on the seat? Or neatsfoot oil?
Yes! As long as it is genuine leather, and not bonded. Lexol "All Leather Conditioner" is the one I recommend in the video, and neatsfoot should be just fine for the seat so long as it's not applied too heavily :) Happy cleaning!
Perfect! ❤
So glad it was helpful :)
Are the sponges damp or dry when applying oil and conditioner?
Nope!
They are dry
Thank you wonderful 😂
Yay! So glad it was helpful!
What oil did you use?
Extra virgin olive oil, but pure neatsfoot oil works well too.
How do you know if you have a suede seat or roughed out seat?
Check with your manufacturer to know for sure. Suede seats are usually thinner leather that is sewn in and padded. Rough out is the full hide, and much heavier.
I have an aussie stock saddle and on the underside of the stirrup leathers I can't tell if it's suede or rough out. How do I tell?
I assume it’s rough out. But without seeing the saddle, I would advise you to google the difference between split leather and rough out. That might help give you an idea.
The process for cleaning rough out is very similar to cleaning suede.
I did your recommendation and bought Lexol #1 & #2 for you. It states that it is NOT recommended for suede,
You'll find that most leather products say they are "not recommended" for suede. However, I've found that the Lexol All Leather Conditioner works very well due to its non-greasy finish. There are lots of other products and methods that may work, but this is what has worked well for me.
Good luck!
I've recently purchased a rough out saddle with an ivory sueded seat. It's used and needs cleaning. I also want to stain the seat darker, chocolate brown or at least a chestnut color. What dyes can a person use, how do you do it and do you have a video about it?
I have not stained suede before, but my favorite dye is Fiebings Pro Dye.
Fiebings also make suede dye.
can mink oil cream be used on suede?
I've never used mink oil cream, but any creamy/waxy substances I would steer clear from for suede. They often have a bad habit of sticking the nap back down again. Hope this helps!
@@hangingarrowsaddlecleaning Thanks so much!
❤
How do you the oil out of it, if a spot got too much oil ? I have a saddle that looks like one spot near the edge got too much oil and I cant figure out had to soak it out. I tried washing it with dawn and its didnt help
Hard to know without looking at it, but dawn is usually a good start. Also massaging and flexing the leather to spread the oil out can help.