Well done got my omphobby m1 & m2 servos justed now it flies great nice and level thanks for posting your video this going to help out everyone out there
thank you for the video, I have the t6 transmitter but I also have a spektrum dx8 and futaba t10j with the remote receivers.I like the bigger hefty transmitter, how dl you bind or link the heli with the remote to the heli.
Dear Buddy RC, thank you for this great video. I got my M1 yesterday from a friend and the M1 was already in use. When I press the set-button 10 times to make a factory reset is the servo trimming (servo-arm position) also reset to factory values or does a factory reset only affect the setup for aileron, rudder, yaw and their values for agility, speed, gain and gyro? Thank you very much and have a nice day. Best regards, Markus.
DO NOT try to correct drift using servo setup mode. that's not what it's meant for. Servo setup mode is for levelling the swash and setting zero pitch. Once you have levelled the swash and got pitch to zero test fly it. If (in stability mode) it still drifts then do a 'de-bugging' calibration flight. like this: ua-cam.com/video/qMdz5uakF9w/v-deo.html The guy in this video is the engineer who designed the M2/M1 so he should know!
You are correct, I followed this video to center the servos as the new arms were off by one tooth. Then, I followed the 'debugging' video and my Heli no longer drifts. Can anyone explain how to center the pitch so it is symmetrical on both positive and negative sides. I understand the flight controller pitch adjustments allow increase/decrease the pitch span. In IdleUp2 3D mode (gyro off, -100 to +100), I have -9.5 degrees and +12 degrees, swash plate not perfectly leveled? I saw some say in the Tx16S, move the PPM Center in OUTPUTS. Thanks!
@@ytr4 have it on the ground, hold elevator all the way down for a few seconds it then blinks the red light, take off carefully for a hover and nudge it to staying in one spot best you can. land, elevator down again for a few seconds to save.
How do you do the pitch? that part was confusing. When I move throttle up/down it just goes up down it doesn't get any more than the range it started with.
Hello, thanks. So when I move my cyclic and let it go, will the servo arm stay in that position Even though the cyclic will return to center? Also, with this, basically eliminate the need for levelling the swash plate since you will have set the service at 90° or should you make final adjustments with the ball links afterwards? Finally, do you think there is any value in doing the trim flight with the radio where you hold down the cyclic until the light flashes, and then hover before saving the settings? Finally, my helicopter seems to be relatively stable though I noticed I don’t have 0° pitch at mid stick. How important is that? I heard it is not quite as important on a smaller machine. I know I asked a few different questions, but any input would be appreciated. Thank you.
Great video - but I need to do the same thing on a first version M2 with the original flight controller. I think at one time I saw a video on how to do this on the OMP Hobbies site... can anyone advise? Thanks!
I crashed my M2 V1 and replaced a bunch of part including the swashplate. I can't seem to figure the right approach out with the T6 radio to get the swashplate leveled - anyone gone through this process? Is there a best practice way to get things all set up correct before you start messing with the debug process?
Thx for great video. I’ve been flying the M2 V2 for about a month, and recently it’s having problems spooling up on take off. It cogs, or won’t spin at all unless nudged. Any ideas ??
Had this on my M1 after 2 flights. Convinced it was a dodgy motor - turned out it was just a loose screw (only 1/8 turn!) where the power leads joins to the flight controller board. Easy fix for me fortunately.
So if I get into the programming mode, I’ve got the stick moved left and forward since mine needs right and aft in flight. The fact that it’s opposite makes sense to me since we’re moving the neutral point that would result from zero stick input. So far so good. But if I’m understanding correctly, I *THINK* I should have to hold that input while pressing the set button so that the new neutral gets memorized….Except that I don’t think I saw you do that. It looked like you did some input, then let it go, then got out of the set mode. I’m not sure that would provide a new neutral point. Am I messed up on this? Ok, quick edit: Now I saw what happened. Nudging the stick slightly makes a change and it stays in. Then press setup and see if it took.
@@lasersbee never use trim on a FBL heli. Trim does not 'go to the servos'.. the servos on a FBL heli are not directly controlled by the Tx, they are controlled by the FBL to achieve the roll pitch rates commanded by the Tx.. very different thing. You can see this if you simply move the cyclic stick (say) 1/4 of the way over. The servos wont just go to 1/4 travel, they will progressively move further and further over until they are at full range, even though the stick is only 1/4 way over.
Well done got my omphobby m1 & m2 servos justed now it flies great nice and level thanks for posting your video this going to help out everyone out there
Enjoy it
Thanks. Worked pretty decent after several adjustments.
Nice I've done a few of these tech videos. I love the omp helis. Great job
thank you for the video, I have the t6 transmitter but I also have a spektrum dx8 and futaba t10j with the remote receivers.I like the bigger hefty transmitter, how dl you bind or link the heli with the remote to the heli.
Dear Buddy RC, thank you for this great video. I got my M1 yesterday from a friend and the M1 was already in use. When I press the set-button 10 times to make a factory reset is the servo trimming (servo-arm position) also reset to factory values or does a factory reset only affect the setup for aileron, rudder, yaw and their values for agility, speed, gain and gyro? Thank you very much and have a nice day. Best regards, Markus.
DO NOT try to correct drift using servo setup mode. that's not what it's meant for. Servo setup mode is for levelling the swash and setting zero pitch. Once you have levelled the swash and got pitch to zero test fly it. If (in stability mode) it still drifts then do a 'de-bugging' calibration flight. like this: ua-cam.com/video/qMdz5uakF9w/v-deo.html The guy in this video is the engineer who designed the M2/M1 so he should know!
You are correct, I followed this video to center the servos as the new arms were off by one tooth. Then, I followed the 'debugging' video and my Heli no longer drifts.
Can anyone explain how to center the pitch so it is symmetrical on both positive and negative sides. I understand the flight controller pitch adjustments allow increase/decrease the pitch span.
In IdleUp2 3D mode (gyro off, -100 to +100), I have -9.5 degrees and +12 degrees, swash plate not perfectly leveled? I saw some say in the Tx16S, move the PPM Center in OUTPUTS. Thanks!
how do you set zero pitch?
Thanks, super helpful!
Glad to hear it!
Wouldn’t debug mode be more effective instead of trial and error you suggest?!?
Could you explain how to do that? I'm assuming you mean you can adjust the trim in mid flight and then save it right?
@@ytr4 m.ua-cam.com/video/qMdz5uakF9w/v-deo.html
@@ytr4 have it on the ground, hold elevator all the way down for a few seconds it then blinks the red light, take off carefully for a hover and nudge it to staying in one spot best you can. land, elevator down again for a few seconds to save.
Just got a OMP M1 EVO with the pocket control
Seems to be a lot of dead stick on cyclic at mid stick
Can you fix this?
How do you do the pitch? that part was confusing. When I move throttle up/down it just goes up down it doesn't get any more than the range it started with.
Thanks for helping
Happy to help
Can you revisit the pitch setting, I would like to tame the pitch down as a beginner
Thank you in advance
Hello, thanks. So when I move my cyclic and let it go, will the servo arm stay in that position Even though the cyclic will return to center? Also, with this, basically eliminate the need for levelling the swash plate since you will have set the service at 90° or should you make final adjustments with the ball links afterwards? Finally, do you think there is any value in doing the trim flight with the radio where you hold down the cyclic until the light flashes, and then hover before saving the settings? Finally, my helicopter seems to be relatively stable though I noticed I don’t have 0° pitch at mid stick. How important is that? I heard it is not quite as important on a smaller machine. I know I asked a few different questions, but any input would be appreciated. Thank you.
Great video - but I need to do the same thing on a first version M2 with the original flight controller. I think at one time I saw a video on how to do this on the OMP Hobbies site... can anyone advise? Thanks!
I crashed my M2 V1 and replaced a bunch of part including the swashplate. I can't seem to figure the right approach out with the T6 radio to get the swashplate leveled - anyone gone through this process? Is there a best practice way to get things all set up correct before you start messing with the debug process?
Do you do this setting in idle up and without stabilizing mode and the throttle stick in the middle position?
Thx for great video. I’ve been flying the M2 V2 for about a month, and recently it’s having problems spooling up on take off. It cogs, or won’t spin at all unless nudged. Any ideas ??
That sound like the motor or esc has gone bad.
Had this on my M1 after 2 flights. Convinced it was a dodgy motor - turned out it was just a loose screw (only 1/8 turn!) where the power leads joins to the flight controller board. Easy fix for me fortunately.
I just received my M1. Was just wondering why the blue light on the Heli is solidly lit, and the red light is flashing?
Receiver connected and stability is off.
Thanks!
How long does it take to charge the transmitter?
Depends on how much battery is left
So if I get into the programming mode, I’ve got the stick moved left and forward since mine needs right and aft in flight. The fact that it’s opposite makes sense to me since we’re moving the neutral point that would result from zero stick input. So far so good. But if I’m understanding correctly, I *THINK* I should have to hold that input while pressing the set button so that the new neutral gets memorized….Except that I don’t think I saw you do that. It looked like you did some input, then let it go, then got out of the set mode. I’m not sure that would provide a new neutral point. Am I messed up on this?
Ok, quick edit: Now I saw what happened. Nudging the stick slightly makes a change and it stays in. Then press setup and see if it took.
Looks like you just answered one of my questions. Thanks 👍
Why can't you use the radio Trim switches to get rid of drift ?
Because your programming the flybarless unit trim
@@douglasbooth1948 Same thing... Trim goes back to the Servos.
@@lasersbee never use trim on a FBL heli. Trim does not 'go to the servos'.. the servos on a FBL heli are not directly controlled by the Tx, they are controlled by the FBL to achieve the roll pitch rates commanded by the Tx.. very different thing. You can see this if you simply move the cyclic stick (say) 1/4 of the way over. The servos wont just go to 1/4 travel, they will progressively move further and further over until they are at full range, even though the stick is only 1/4 way over.
👍👍