About the top of the obelisk - the pyramid top is hollow with hollow stud, right? Maybe the harpoon (18041) can work as a point if inserted through the stud?
I thought the same thing. The pyramid top is a blocked open stud, but with a 3mm drill that should be no problem, it isn't a genuin lego part anyway. The harpoon 57467a would be better since it's available in chrome silver and the capstone is made of aluminium!
I think this technique looks pretty solid!! Especially since this is a micro scale build (which is crazy to say with how big the obelisk is) I think it’s totally fine to have small gaps in between the tiles. And don’t beat yourself up- Luca is a better builder than all of us 😅
It looks like you've currently got room for 49 flag poles with one stud between each (you currently have 98 studs, based on a quick count from the video at 05:35-ish), Another circle would be too large though since it would add about six more studs to the circle. You might reach the 50 poles/100 studs with some small adjustment in the middle to push the rings outward just a little. Some of the inner rings would then also grow by an extra stud. I love the tiling idea that you've applied here - it's a great project!
Wow that is an absolutely genius idea. I will need to get more of those parts now lol. The way you figured out how to add those tiles for the base with a very tight gap is insane. It’s so worth it being subscribed to this channel. For anyone who reads this and isn’t subscribed, SUBSCRIBE. It’s so so worth it.
That looks absolutely amazing! I really like how it allows the dark rings to be flush with the rest of the base and not stick out like with my design. For the flags, I did the math: A ring with a circumference of 125 studs would not only be very close to the scale of the obelisk, but it would also allow you to place 50 flagpoles at equidistant intervals of 2.5 studs (using jumper plates).
@@bricksculpt 125➗️pi = 39.7887... so you would end up a diameter of ~40 studs Probably a stud or two more as you have some wiggle room between layers
@@galileopersons2045 actually, the right formula in this case is 1/tan(π/125)≈39.7804 studs, because it's a 125 sided regular polygon and not a circle.
@@lucahermann3040 good point! since the ring added in the video has exactly 98 studs it seems like 99 more rings would have 126 studs and we would be off by 1 this could be fixed by fudging some of the rings, which is going to have to happen anyways to deal with the ring gaps, but is slightly frustrating that the last ring won't be one of the perfect rings (assuming Brick Sculpt goes for this idea)
@@galileopersons2045 it's always an option to make a chain that's twice as long and fold it up like an accordion to make a ring with a thickness of 2 studs. Such a ring can then be pulled apart to get the desired length without creating any noticeable gaps.
for the tip, you can use either a bird, part 58176 bar with light bulb cover, available in flat silver, or the 24482 spear tip with fins, available in white.
Instead of the cap, if you ran a bar through the open stud on top, just slightly sticking out, you could bring it to a somewhat more accurate point than where it is currently.
Dude, that's based (pun 100% intended) But jokes aside, it does look really good. And about the tip - being that this is the LEGO universe's version of the Washington Monument, I think there is something to having the tip being a LEGO stud, being that it's the most foundational part of the LEGO brick.
So I was thinking about the IDS building this morning, and decided to look it up, and then found out about another building near it called the Foshay Tower, which was said to be modeled after the Washington Monument, and is called an Obelisk Skyscraper!
Honestly even if the pyramid piece fit on the top stud I think I wouldn't like it as much. Even with builds this advanced and this tiled off, I still believe it is neat if you show at least one visible stud to remind us that it is indeed a Lego build. R.R Slugger made a video talking about that once.
At just after 8:30 in I made an audible annoyed "Awwwr 😠" sound when I saw that the top of the 2x2x2 75 degree slope wasn't flush with the 1x1 pyramid. LEGO is full of these quirks, haha. Beautiful circular (and legal!) tiling, though! Side note, I did a bit more research on the slope (ID 3688) and I can't seem to find any sets that feature it in white. Really makes me wonder where it came from, because I know that during LEGO outsourcing some molds that they had issues with factory workers sneaking out marbled bricks, but I'm just not finding any information on the 2x2x2 75 degree slope in white! Have you asked your supplier where they got it from?
I’m not steeped in advanced Lego modeling, so I have to ask you guys, is there a reliable computer-based Lego modeling program? It’d seem that there must be one by now, that: 1) has a complete library of every type of piece, 2) allows you to mockup models more quickly than brute force modeling (one that uses a modular building interface, so you don’t have to always build it one piece at a time), and most importantly, 3) is true enough in its tolerance values, that it can correctly simulate the bending, “illegal” connections, and other unorthodox scenarios that I’ve seen many master builders use. If not, what’s the next best thing? And why is no one making one? ABS plastic is already a very simulat-able material, and LEGO already uses very strict manufacturing processes. So it ought to be fairly straightforward to modeling some of the wild ideas that builders come up with, without having to spend $1000 just to try out a new method.
Have you put any thought into representing the difference in color between the first and second phases of construction of the monument, reflecting the different marble sources? Can't remember if you've mentioned it. I'm not sure what's available for lego colors. Maybe if you had a bunch of tile that had been yellowed somehow, ha.
You can avoid the small gaps, by making it one looooooong spiral. the beginning hidden under that 10x10 base of the obylix so that it doesn't look like it starts as a spiral. Just as I typed this up you say you don't want it XD
this might be stupid and its completely unnecessery but i think you could put a cone piece on top and maybe a short bar inside of that if you wanted to make it as pointy as possible
I really hope that the finished product could be an official set. Imagining what it could look like just off of the bits and pieces you've shown makes me really want to have a build like this. I love the more historical Architecture sets (especially ones like the Capitol Building) and I feel like this set would look really cool in some sort of collection. Even if it couldn't be a official set, I'd love to build this for myself.
All around the left two thirds of the circle the pattern lines look so neat and amazing… but then, somehow, as you approach back round to the top (going counter clockwise) the pattern seems to mess up a little and get slightly wrinkly… the symmetry starts breaking down, but I can’t understand why!? Some weird Lego math going on…
That's just concentric circles for you. Two consecutive rings have a difference in radius of 1 stud, and thus will have a difference in circumference of 2*pi*1stud = 6.283studs. And sadly that's not close enough to an integer number. You could probably solve it if you made the difference in radius between consecutive circles 6/(2*pi)=0.959 or 7/(2*pi)=1.114studs. The first seems impossible as LEGO pieces have only a 0.2mm gap on a 8mm stud distance, so the closest you can get them is 7.8/8 = 0.975studs, and that's ignoring the curvature. So you'd need to stick something with the thickness of 0.114studs = 0.114*8mm=0.913mm (or a bit less because of the curvature) in between the layers. That's about 15 sheets of paper.
Why is the base not just one continuous spiral? The distribution of studs will be based on the golden ratio iirc, making the pattern seem natural and random.
About the top of the obelisk - the pyramid top is hollow with hollow stud, right? Maybe the harpoon (18041) can work as a point if inserted through the stud?
They don't make those in white afaik unfortunately
Oh, how about the white unicorn horn?
I thought the same thing. The pyramid top is a blocked open stud, but with a 3mm drill that should be no problem, it isn't a genuin lego part anyway. The harpoon 57467a would be better since it's available in chrome silver and the capstone is made of aluminium!
@@gegessen159 isnt the current top a genuine lego piece, but a non release one (from legoland or smth)?
@Sopsy_Hallow maybe I missed it, I thought it was from wobrick
I think this technique looks pretty solid!! Especially since this is a micro scale build (which is crazy to say with how big the obelisk is) I think it’s totally fine to have small gaps in between the tiles. And don’t beat yourself up- Luca is a better builder than all of us 😅
That's the truth he's hard to beat lol
Hard to beat doesn't mean can't be beat
It looks like you've currently got room for 49 flag poles with one stud between each (you currently have 98 studs, based on a quick count from the video at 05:35-ish), Another circle would be too large though since it would add about six more studs to the circle. You might reach the 50 poles/100 studs with some small adjustment in the middle to push the rings outward just a little. Some of the inner rings would then also grow by an extra stud. I love the tiling idea that you've applied here - it's a great project!
I will likely build it from the outside in to get the number right.
the 0:50 - 1:20 live assembly + pre assembly + editing was beautiful
Thanks!
You should put a clear red one on top to look like the bright red light it emits to scare off airplanes
Wow that is an absolutely genius idea. I will need to get more of those parts now lol. The way you figured out how to add those tiles for the base with a very tight gap is insane. It’s so worth it being subscribed to this channel. For anyone who reads this and isn’t subscribed, SUBSCRIBE. It’s so so worth it.
Wow thank you so much for your support!!!
That looks absolutely amazing!
I really like how it allows the dark rings to be flush with the rest of the base and not stick out like with my design.
For the flags, I did the math:
A ring with a circumference of 125 studs would not only be very close to the scale of the obelisk, but it would also allow you to place 50 flagpoles at equidistant intervals of 2.5 studs (using jumper plates).
125 would be a good goal I will have to see how big the diameter would be to see if it fits well. Thanks Luca!
@@bricksculpt 125➗️pi = 39.7887... so you would end up a diameter of ~40 studs
Probably a stud or two more as you have some wiggle room between layers
@@galileopersons2045 actually, the right formula in this case is
1/tan(π/125)≈39.7804 studs,
because it's a 125 sided regular polygon and not a circle.
@@lucahermann3040 good point!
since the ring added in the video has exactly 98 studs it seems like 99 more rings would have 126 studs and we would be off by 1
this could be fixed by fudging some of the rings, which is going to have to happen anyways to deal with the ring gaps, but is slightly frustrating that the last ring won't be one of the perfect rings (assuming Brick Sculpt goes for this idea)
@@galileopersons2045 it's always an option to make a chain that's twice as long and fold it up like an accordion to make a ring with a thickness of 2 studs. Such a ring can then be pulled apart to get the desired length without creating any noticeable gaps.
for the tip, you can use either a bird, part 58176 bar with light bulb cover, available in flat silver, or the 24482 spear tip with fins, available in white.
'Bout that base? No trouble!
'Cause every brick of it is perfect from the bottom to the top... o II ^ 😁
Love this lol
Incredible build, Chris! I can't wait to see it when it's finished!
Thank you so much!
Try the unicorn horn.
Even with the piral texture i think it could have the right angle
THAT BASE!!!!! This is looking amazing. Great design.
Glad you like it, thanks!
This is going to look beautiful!
Consider alternating the direction of the rings and/or using two or 3 different starting points.
Yeah I'm thinking different start points
That little pyramid piece at the top made me think of a little baby Goa'uld Pyramid Ship from Stargate. 😊
Instead of the cap, if you ran a bar through the open stud on top, just slightly sticking out, you could bring it to a somewhat more accurate point than where it is currently.
It's a blocked stud :(
@@bricksculpt Ah! That's too bad.
A good backup for the pyramid top might be 98138. The flat 1x1 plate in white.
I already love this one so much, so curious what Luca's looks like!
It will likely be seen around some point here.
I love how frequently you upload!
Thanks, it's been a grind trying to do everyday but it keeps me going!
@@bricksculptdon't wear yourself out, please! 😮
Dude, that's based (pun 100% intended)
But jokes aside, it does look really good. And about the tip - being that this is the LEGO universe's version of the Washington Monument, I think there is something to having the tip being a LEGO stud, being that it's the most foundational part of the LEGO brick.
Thanks! Yeah I agree a stud on top is perfect.
Man this is gonna look great!
Thanks!
looks great
Thanks!
That looks really good!
Thanks!
Now you need that giant pool with the cherry trees 😂. Nice work!
Yeah pretty much
thanks for showing the 1x1 pyramid piece i was wondering how it fits, it looks ridiculous 😭
No problem!!
So I was thinking about the IDS building this morning, and decided to look it up, and then found out about another building near it called the Foshay Tower, which was said to be modeled after the Washington Monument, and is called an Obelisk Skyscraper!
Nice, I want to see a moc of it!
We thought the series was dead. But then it lived!
Woah! The base is good!
Thanks!
Honestly even if the pyramid piece fit on the top stud I think I wouldn't like it as much. Even with builds this advanced and this tiled off, I still believe it is neat if you show at least one visible stud to remind us that it is indeed a Lego build. R.R Slugger made a video talking about that once.
That's a good point!
@ or _lack_ of a _point_ 😉
I would pay for a parts list for this whole build🙏..it is great!
Maybe when it's done
how about using the triangle piece used on the roof of the assembly square modular?
Would like to see the obelisk body be built in sections about 10 inches tall. And connect each section like you connect the top
It would be if made into a set. Easy to do with this build. But much more satisfying to connect the large sections :P
@bricksculpt indeed 😊😊 I only meant if you submit to Lego for consideration. 😊
Might happen in the future!
The base is looking great! Cant wait to vote for this on Lego ideas if you decide to put it up for submission!
unless I've missed something there's some illegality in the sides of the obelisk
@ there is, but the Lego group typically cleans up things like that
they will probably clean it up at expense of it looking as good as it does
Hopefully someday soon!
At just after 8:30 in I made an audible annoyed "Awwwr 😠" sound when I saw that the top of the 2x2x2 75 degree slope wasn't flush with the 1x1 pyramid. LEGO is full of these quirks, haha. Beautiful circular (and legal!) tiling, though!
Side note, I did a bit more research on the slope (ID 3688) and I can't seem to find any sets that feature it in white. Really makes me wonder where it came from, because I know that during LEGO outsourcing some molds that they had issues with factory workers sneaking out marbled bricks, but I'm just not finding any information on the 2x2x2 75 degree slope in white! Have you asked your supplier where they got it from?
It likely came from a Legoland in the UK.
Great stuff!
Thanks!
I’m not steeped in advanced Lego modeling, so I have to ask you guys, is there a reliable computer-based Lego modeling program? It’d seem that there must be one by now, that: 1) has a complete library of every type of piece, 2) allows you to mockup models more quickly than brute force modeling (one that uses a modular building interface, so you don’t have to always build it one piece at a time), and most importantly, 3) is true enough in its tolerance values, that it can correctly simulate the bending, “illegal” connections, and other unorthodox scenarios that I’ve seen many master builders use. If not, what’s the next best thing? And why is no one making one? ABS plastic is already a very simulat-able material, and LEGO already uses very strict manufacturing processes. So it ought to be fairly straightforward to modeling some of the wild ideas that builders come up with, without having to spend $1000 just to try out a new method.
Lego studio 2.0 is the current go to. It's a free download available on bricklink.
Have you put any thought into representing the difference in color between the first and second phases of construction of the monument, reflecting the different marble sources? Can't remember if you've mentioned it. I'm not sure what's available for lego colors. Maybe if you had a bunch of tile that had been yellowed somehow, ha.
Yeah yellowed would be the only way so no I'm not going to have that detail incorporated but yes I had considered it.
You need the 1x1 cone on top.
No thanks I'm good with it how it is.
You can avoid the small gaps, by making it one looooooong spiral. the beginning hidden under that 10x10 base of the obylix so that it doesn't look like it starts as a spiral.
Just as I typed this up you say you don't want it XD
Yeah the serial will make the flags, the benches, and the dark stripes look bad.
this might be stupid and its completely unnecessery but i think you could put a cone piece on top and maybe a short bar inside of that if you wanted to make it as pointy as possible
I FORGOT ABOUT UNIKITTYS HORN. i dont know if it comes in white but if it does you could use that instead of a bar piece as well
I thought about that but I'm good with it the way it is.
Based 🗿
Very nice. You've made me curious, where can I view Luca Hermann's design?
Should be on the discord server under the obelisk channel.
reads the title, starts humming 'All About That Bass' by Meghan Trainor
Yeah it's definitely a pun referencing it ^^
I really hope that the finished product could be an official set. Imagining what it could look like just off of the bits and pieces you've shown makes me really want to have a build like this. I love the more historical Architecture sets (especially ones like the Capitol Building) and I feel like this set would look really cool in some sort of collection. Even if it couldn't be a official set, I'd love to build this for myself.
We will see maybe someday!
Off topic, but what are you thinking about streaming? I think people would enjoy that.
I haven't explored that yet. I'm not sure if I want to do that or not.
isnt there a 1x1 cone? maybe that one will fit?
watch the end ! or do you mean the round cone ?
A white wand (36752) would create a nice narrow tip.
@@elricthebald or make it silver for accuracy, even tho another comment on an older video mentioned you wouldnt see the aluminum cone in this scale
@@Frosch1220 Cones are always round
All around the left two thirds of the circle the pattern lines look so neat and amazing… but then, somehow, as you approach back round to the top (going counter clockwise) the pattern seems to mess up a little and get slightly wrinkly… the symmetry starts breaking down, but I can’t understand why!? Some weird Lego math going on…
Now that I've read your comment, I can't unsee it! 🤣 I think it's what printers call "rivers".
Yeah it's got strange patterns in it for sure.
That's just concentric circles for you. Two consecutive rings have a difference in radius of 1 stud, and thus will have a difference in circumference of 2*pi*1stud = 6.283studs. And sadly that's not close enough to an integer number.
You could probably solve it if you made the difference in radius between consecutive circles 6/(2*pi)=0.959 or 7/(2*pi)=1.114studs. The first seems impossible as LEGO pieces have only a 0.2mm gap on a 8mm stud distance, so the closest you can get them is 7.8/8 = 0.975studs, and that's ignoring the curvature. So you'd need to stick something with the thickness of 0.114studs = 0.114*8mm=0.913mm (or a bit less because of the curvature) in between the layers. That's about 15 sheets of paper.
wahoo
Why not just do a spiral chain instead of rings?
Dark grey ring, benches, and flag would not work with spiral.
This is based
Instructions please!!!!!
Maybe when complete
@@bricksculpt thank you!!!
Hi
Hi
Guess it is time for BS to come up with a new way to create an accurate top that would hold the pyramid piece
Why is the base not just one continuous spiral? The distribution of studs will be based on the golden ratio iirc, making the pattern seem natural and random.
Nevermind you answered my question in the video
First!!
If you ain't first you're last!