Your video on this subject is superior to any other video. I spent hours trying to figure this out, looking at other videos, and your video was short, succinct, direct, and informative. I was able to go out and adjust the high RPM's in 5 minutes. Thank you so much!
100%. I too, have spent hours fiddling with it all to no success. Then I somehow did something and it worked, until I did another adjustment and ruined the setting again. After spending hours searching online for a fix, I finally stumbled across this video that is so simple and makes me feel like an idiot.
Thanks, really appreciate that! I try to focus on the subject, i hate to watch a video when someone has music playing in the background. Thanks for Watching!!!
Of all the web pages i've gone to and about 10 videos, THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST EXAMPLE OF HOW TO ADJUST THE GOUVERNOR ON A SMALL ENGINE. Thank you for making and sharing this video. I knew it was a simple process but could never get a straight forward example of how to do the actual adjustment, everyone wants to talk about springs and how to "jimmy" springs to control idle speed... thanks for the video two thumbs up!!
+doug h I appreciate that! I usually try to keep things as simple and to the point as i can. Yeah, sometimes you have to bend the tabs to fine tune speed, especially on generators. Your welcome!!! Thanks for Watching!!!
You have the BEST small engine repair videos. You cover all the experienced-based, necessary repairs. I feel majorly accomplished having used several of your video tutorials. You really show the important details that usually are intentionally omitted from the testimony. Outstanding !
I have watched others try to tell us how to adjust the governor on a motor. You are the only one that I have found that go straight to the subject. Most people do not know how to teach because they go through to much and get to complicated. Keep making videos.
Appreciate that, I try to keep my videos as simple as possible and to the point, I do get carried away or get off subject now and though haha Will do! Thanks for Watching!!!
I feel silly saying this but I have struggled with this for years.. You have made an AWESOME video .. the best and most simple explanation anyone could ask for.. I appreciate your time and effort..Cheers
This is by far, the best, straight to the point, clear video description I've seen yet. I've watched about 30videos or so. Just opened up my shop last year (2 more weeks is my 1 year anniv for opening. doing free labor all day for all 70 of my customers if they provide the parts.!) Couldn't ask for a better video, the most direct!
Jeff Fixererer Thanks, I really appreciate that! Glad to hear it helped out! Congratulations on your shop! I hope to one day have my own shop. haha i hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi there from Australia. Your videos are fantastic! They have given me the confidence to tackle things like this instead of paying big money for someone else to fix it. And by the way, my wife is quite impressed too. Thinks I am quite the handyman thanks to you! I owe you one😉 Just about to try process and adjust my govenor. I just fixed my one piece carburetor. I cleaned out all the jets but still wouldn't work. As it happened, it was the needle getting stuck and not dropping in and out properly. Not getting fuel. I had to drill it out slightly (in reverse) just to get a little bit more clearance. No amount of cleaning worked. Thanks heaps. Mick.
Hi! Appreciate that! Glad to hear! Thats why i make these videos to help people save money by doing repairs your self. haha i hear ya! I hear ya, sometimes they can be really bad. Your welcome glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
I have been searching for info on the throttle, choke, and governor on my riding mower. I am so glad that I found your videos. Just what I needed. You definitely do need to "keep them coming"!
Good job! As a note from a retired ASE Master but green Loctite is low strength and applied after a nut is installed. Now, I will do this to my tiller because it runs faster than normal and won't idle down. If I am throwing snow, I like to push the throttle down while the mail guy/gal shows up. I use plastic covers for manuals, but take photos to numbers of the snow machine, s/n, model and engine to. Clean & brighten photos & print them place these in the file cabinet as well. It helps 4-7 years later when things need adjusted or fixed. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, Retired. Thanks!
At 2:47 you explained my problem! I was having an issue with mice that chewed my plug wire down to bare wire and shorting out. I took head and carb off to check valves, but never touched the gov assembly. When I put it all back together, it was way over revving. I couldn't figure out what I did to make it rev up like that, but I knew the fix was resetting it. Not untill you explained that anytime you take the carb off, you should re-adjust your gov....I didn't know that! Thanks for the info! Great vid, bro!
Awesome video. I have been looking for a video like this for weeks. I called Briggs yesterday, and there engine support team wouldn't tell me how to do it. I was checking your channel out, and low and behold this was the first video. Thanks so much man. You don't know how much your videos help us out. Appreciate you taking the time to show us how to do this. My next goal is to get a tachometer to tune the carb. Trying to figure out how to tune it properly, with idle, and top no load.
Just wanted to say a quick thank you. I put a new short block in my rider (13.5hp B&S) and got it back running but couldn't figure out how to set the governor. It was running really high and would bog down with the engaging of the blades and going up a hill. I had looked for quite a while on the internet and couldn't really find what I needed. I found your video and couldn't believe how easy it was and I was a very skeptical. Well I went out and adjusted it and it worked great. Thanks!!!!!!
Dang ! That might explain why (after installing a new carb kit) the engine on my tiller is acting up. A simple adjustment that I never thought about. Thanks a million. I was about to buy another kit thinking it was a bad one. Thumbs up
Another great video Frank! You have the best small engine videos on You Tube. I always thought this was not adjustable. I have a 12.5 hp Briggs that is surging right now after a carb rebuild. I will bet that this is the problem. I will adjust the governor in the morning. Thanks so much for the timely video!
Excellent video. One of the best I've seen. Not a lot of wasted rambling on, just good information presented in a good fashion. Thank you very much. I'll be watching more of your vids.
+James Brown Thanks, appreciate that! Yeah i usually try to stay to the point, now and then I'll get sidetracked haha Your welcome, appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Between this video and the one that explains how the governor works where it was completely disassembled, I have a very good understanding of how to recognize and fix governor issues. I fixed my rototiller that was basically new, I bought from someone who couldn't fix it and now it runs like new! it was loping... Thank you sir!
This is the exact video I needed! I just bought an old murray riding mower and it has the 12.5 band g i/c motor. It runs very high rpm pretty much non stop and doenst have much of a change in the throttle,. it does surge in a rythmic fashion and blows a lot of oil/white smoke out of the exaust when it does the surge. lawn mower mechanic up the street said to try adjusting the governor. this video was perfect for showing me what to do. I just hope it does the trick once i actually do it.
You just saved me! I changed the carb on my B&G 9.5 snow blower engine and it was racing after I started it. I stopped it in a second or two. I thought I had a bad carb. I was extra careful not change anything but it turns out the governor was way out! Thank you!
@@grahamlocklin thank you! Im gonna set it today! Its my sons new tractor hes been building and he just got it running and it scared both of us when it took off at full speed lol
excellent! this is exactly how to adjust the governor. Normally you will not need to do this, but with old antique motors, these friction/clamp type fasteners get rusty and they slip. The other thing that can happen, and I want to mention this to anyone dealing with an older vintage motor is that the governor arm has a bushing type seal. This bushing type seal can build up lots of crude an dirt and that can cause the governor arm to get "stuck" or bind up in one range of motion. So before doing anything, spray some brake cleaner all over the governor arm bushing seal. Blast it with some compressed air, then coat it lightly with regular motor oil. (the brake cleaner will cause most rubber bushings and seals to dry out and then they can crack...so put some lube oil on it to prevent that. It's like how you wash your hair. shampoo to get rid of dirt and then a conditioner to prevent dry out. Same idea. also...on old vintage motors, springs rust out and break. Always check that ALL springs are intact, in the correct holes/positions, and replace them if they are weak or stiff. t
brotha, THANK YOU!!! I have never adjusted a governor before and I been needing to on an old 1982 JD214 garden tractor. This solved my problem! THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!
glad someone finally records a real how to video, very detailed, stays on topic,clearly speaks and demonstrates,no background bs like music,and he isnt trying to break into the acting career by dressing up as some bucktoothed idiot on other videos ive tried to watch and learn but couldnt because the acting was in the way...great job..and great teaching
Thanks for your videos! Between this one on adjusting the governor and your others on rebuilding and tuning the flowjet carbs, my old B&S powered mower is running perfectly. Thanks for take the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks. I had rebuilt a 30 year old Briggs, 1904oo series engine, on a Mighty Mac chipper, governor similar set up to this one, my engine is horizontal. My engine was way over revving, was driving me nuts right after a rebuild like that wanted to break engine in without throwing the rod out. I knew there was a governor adjustment of some sort on that shaft you worked on. Here I'd been trying to adjust my maximum governed speed with a nut which has s spring behind it, on my engine which is located behind the white (black on mine) plastic throttle slider, and sticks out toward the pto side. This spring / nut does not seem to be present on lawn mower application in video, at least that I could see. This WORKED, my engine now runs at a decent regulated speed not too fast like the Wright Brothers only caring if the engine lasted long enough for that first 59 second flight, lol. Engine purrs right along as it continues to settle in, undergoing break in from its rebuild. Chippers always run really fast, one reason chipper engines do not last. I still have not found out what the adjusting nut with spring behind it exactly does on my engine, but believe it may have something to do with running speed although does not allow you the wide a range you have on a lawnmower application. Way engine is mounted you can NOT safely make adjustments with engine running. Some differences on my chipper engine, are the white (or black) plastic square throttle slider on mine, you can NOT move. Also, look ma, no third hand required: did not need hold throttle wide open while turning governor shaft to the right, and tightening the clamp nut. My engine the linkage kept the throttle WIDE open for you. In fact idk what the idle screw even has got to do with anything on mine, only way that idle screw EVER touches, running or stopped is if you somehow override the throttle rod linkage manually. Good informative video, great pictures, and as another poster mentioned no music viewers may not like. Nice job!
Hi I’ve a Briggs quantum engine and I’ve cleaned the carb and replaced air filter and gaskets spark plug and governor spring and adjusted the governor arm as per video but still engine races ?
First off, fantastic explanation! I watched the video on what a governor does and then followed it up with this video. I have the opposite to your problem where it is surging at idle actually, hope this does the trick :)
Appreciate that, glad to help out! I hear ya, alot of times if they are running to lean it may be a carburetor issue causing that too. Thanks for Watching!!!
I think I see. Every day I feel a little closer to really understanding how the governor and autochoke work. My B&S has a similar setup. It has a half moon governor shaft. I'd like to have a special tool for that. I really don't quite understand the throttle + choke position of the throttle control though. There doesn't seem to be any connection from the throttle cable to the choke at all. The only linkage for the choke leads up into the engine near the muffler, I assume this being the heat controlled autochoke. I understand the governor action in the following way: For a given midrange throttle control position, when the oil slinger (or the air vanes) go faster, such as under a decreased load, the pin comes out (or the air arm moves out), which pulls the governor arm forward (to the right), which closes the throttle valve a little bit to slow the RPM down. Similarly, when an increased load slows the engine down, the governor arm moves to the rear (to the left), opening the throttle valve a little to increase engine RPM. I can understand that. Now when you adjusted the governor arm, you were effectively adjusting the governor up against it's closest position to either the oil slinger or the air vanes (depending on the type of governor). Taryl says to hold this shaft position, then adjust the governor arm so that the throttle is all the way open (as far away from the idle screw as it will go). Then he says to tighten the governor arm to the governor shaft while holding these two positions. This agrees with what you said. So that must be correct. The spring that rides on the throttle linkage, which connects the throttle to the governor, must only serve the purpose of keeping the linkage from falling apart, and performs no other function. My throttle cable is attached to a lever having a throttle control spring running to the governor arm. This spring must be the important one. I would also assume that the clamp holding the throttle cable down should be loosened, and with the throttle control in idle, the throttle cable should be adjusted in its clamp so that the throttle control spring is just at its limp position (no tension). At idle, the throttle control spring is limp, allowing the governor arm to rest against the stop, being held against the stop by an internal spring inside the engine I assume. Here is what confuses me: The choke seems to have no input from the throttle cable, its only connection being the autochoke linkage running up inside the engine cover near the muffler. But that doesn't seem right. Obviously, the choke comes on in this throttle control position because the engine won't start cold unless it is in that position. So what am I not seeing?
Thanks for showing how to do this. I have a Yamaha MT 110 2-stroke lawnmower motor and it was giving me all hell revving like it was going to take off whenever it feels like it. Well, just as you said: 5 minutes later the problem is fixed & it is running smoothly and solid. The throttle cable was replaced some time ago and ever since that it was uncontrollable but worked sort of.
Excellent videos (this one and throttle linkage one). Saved my butt! Just rebuild the LMT carb and couldn't get it to work properly. Overlooked governor adjustment like you said. Thank you so much!!!!
jj again. The air vane on my 6.75 just works the carb's choke butterfly. I believe it's Briggs' autochoke feature added some years ago to supposedly make for easier starting for the avg. homeowner; that is, no primer nor choke to fool with. The carb's inside butterfly (throttle) is operated by linkages routed from front to back finally disappearing through the crankcase. There is a bolt/jamb nut and shaft just like on a mechanical gov. Glad to send a picture if you will tell me how. Appreciate your patience; I've learned a lot from you.
I worked on those before, I don't care much for it, i'd rather have a manual choke or primer. that is a mechanical governor going to the inside, it should just have a air vane choke. it could very well be the slinger / gov is bad or just needs adjusted like i did in this video. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for your informational videos! I'm just learning small engine repair as a hobby and your videos are so informative, educational, and incredibly helpful!
Thank you so much for this video! I have recently taken off the carburettor and the engine's started surging since that. I will give this a go - I'm sure this is the cause. Thanks again!
Well here it is a few years after you so kindly made this video and I find that I should thank you,,,Thank You! It took me some time to find a video that is useful and detailed, I didn't even have to hear all about things that have nothing to do with the engine. Thank You again.
Just set my govner due to surging revs.( up and down) exact ally the way you showed. Everything on my 550 brig and strat was the same as video, mower runs better then new, in fact I'm concerned it revs too high lol. Fantastic information!
I have a briggs and stratton 15.5 motor on my riding mower. I recently had to replace the camshaft. After putting it all back together I find it runs rough . I also adjusted the valve lash. Still the same problem . I'm hoping the governor adjustment eill smooth it out. Thanks ron Mc.
+Ronald McCready I hear ya. It could be carburetor issues, assuming the cam was replaced to fix the compression release, but it could be the governor as well since it may have a different thickness gasket on the crank cover or something, sometimes it doesn't take much to throw it off. Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for the video ,i was beating my brains out trying to figure out why the surge ,I pulled the new carb off twice cleaning it and it didn't help I seen this video and in 3 minutes wah-la , ,,thanks again
Usually if this doesn't fix it, it can be a linkage bent or a spring that is to tight, usually from being installed in wrong hole on the arm or the arm is bent to much, worst case would be the internal governor part (oil slinger/governor weights) is bad or broke. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks. I hear ya, I didn't know about it either until about 3 years ago i think it was, had a 12 horse briggs that was surging no matter how i adjusted the carburetor, did some research and adjusted it, and it smoothed right out, wish i made a video on that motor. Thanks for Watching!!!
Just recently, I have a Briggs 331877-0869-g5, about 11 years old, I did some deck repairs, tested by mowing some lawn and worked fine, when I pulled into garage, started revving to max, now, if I start it, immediately goes to high rpms, governor arm doesn't move, but if I move it by hand it will slow down. I've drained oil, gas, took deck off, getting ready to tear into it, but if you have a different opinion, let me know. I need to fix quickly, cause spring is here and the grass grows fast. Thanks, Brian
+fnaguitarplayer9 Finally, a "UA-cam Expert" who actually knows what he's doing! I just remember to: "...move the governor arm to hold the throttle in the WFO ("wide f*****g open") and turn and lock the governor shaft the same direction as the gov. arm moved to open the throttle & tighten. I hope you're not like that moon-faced "donyboy73" kid who tells you to completely disassemble the starter from the blower housing to replace the rope and/or recoil spring on older Briggs'. I told him you don't need to EVER remove the pulley AT ALL unless to REPLACE that pulley. He cussed me out instead of thanking me. Of course, I've only been doing this "small engine repair" thing since October of 1973 so what do I know? On the 12**** series Briggs-powered lawn mowers, I got it down to where I never even had to remove anything to replace the rope. I mean, there are those decorative plastic round covers that come off w/no tools. That has to come off.
Appreciate that! I tried to explain it as simple as i could. I hear ya, I've watched alot of his videos he's good at it, but everyone has there own way of doing things. I know what you mean, your right, you don't ever have to take it off unless the spring is broke or its broke itself, you can wind the rope with it still in the shroud. Faster and easier. Sometimes the rope is to big and its hard to do though. Thanks for Watching!!!
If the rope is too big, go for smaller like 4 or 4.5. I like using the smaller because you can get more in and you don't pull out to the end and dislocate your shoulder. Besides, when I'm done working on something, all you have to do is pull the rope out like maybe 2 feet at most for 1 pull starts. Did you make a Briggs spring installing tool from an old 399671 starter clutch? You weld a shaft with a 'T' handle on the square trip after taking it apart. As a kid, I used to replace ropes on my 1970 Steens Taco 99 mini bike with it's 5 horse Briggs by taking the damn thing apart. Somehow, I'd get it back together w/o putting my eye out with the spring. That's the way stupid donyboy73 tells people how to replace a roe and/or spring. He's still young. ME? I'm 61 and still have the Taco 45 years later! Never had the engine open and it still starts first pull. I did replace the tank when I left some gas in it and it rusted out. I made a "Rat Bike" out of it. If you click on my name, a bunch of pictures should come up. I think I post some pictures of it. If not, I'll do that now. Later.
Yeah that would work too, i like the idea of having more rope on it, it does make a difference. No i didn't, i'll have to try that out. I hear ya! I hate messing with those springs. its a pain. I hear ya, i'll have to check that out!
Thanks! Really appreciate that! That probably is whats wrong with it. Thats how my rider was doing about 4 years ago, i thought it was in the carburetor all along haha That was pretty good timing haha no problem! thanks for watching!!!
OK so now I just replaced the carburetor and ignition coil on my craftsman YT 3000 tractor. It has a 21 hp single Briggs & Stratton so when I loosen that not do I turn left or turn right because my engine right now is a racing like hell.
+Jeff Kennedy Your welcome, glad to help out! Yeah alot of times this will cause a engine to seem weak, or a linkage not setup right, i worked on one a while back that the governor wasn't working at all, found out the linkage the governor spring connects was bent! Thanks for Watching!!!
My only experience has included go karts, and the governor worked against full throttle. With the generator starting at full throttle, then the gov closing it to regulate speed..I thought it might be wrong, but now I know what to look at. You saved one more vintage briggs from the scrap yard!
+Jeff Kennedy I hear ya! Glad to help out! I will be posting a couple generator videos here soon (not governor related but carburetor repair and info on getting a generator thats not generating to generate).
+Jeff Kennedy I hear ya! Glad to help out! I will be posting a couple generator videos here soon (not governor related but carburetor repair and info on getting a generator thats not generating to generate).
Thanks. Yeah i just put it up yesterday, thats funny because someone else said i put the video up at the right time as well haha. Thats crazy that they wouldn't tell you how to do it, but it really doesn't surprise me. Your welcome! I need to get a tach as well, it would be very handy to have. thanks for watching!!!
If the linkage is unhooked and its hard to move, the oil slinger/governor may be broken or stuck or possibly its way out of adjustment and needs to be adjusted like in this video. Rare problem, but it does happen. Thanks for Watching!
Thank you for this information...I'll try it this morning and see if it he's the surging on my older 8hp Briggs & Stratton. I've tried just about everything else I could think of.
Hey Partner! my 12.5 briggs is reved up and won't idle cleaned the card as instructed the throttle plate is closed with the governer arm from the motor is to the front of the motor with tension push it back a small amount and it over revs adjusted the governer as instructed. Ps thanks for the quick response yesterday I'm looking forward to the opposed briggs vids, TIA!
Jorge Lopez Hey! Have you checked the intake gasket, sometimes if there is a air leak there it will idle up really high. But there is also a chance that something is wrong with the internal parts of the governor, on the oil slinger, thats about the only thing thats left if the linkage moves free and the governor is adjusted correctly. Your welcome! Yeah, i plan on making a few on the opposed twins. Thanks for Watching!
have you adjusted the cable, loosen the clamp, set the throttle to fast then pull the plastic (or metal if its a older engine) all the way back? If you've done that, then you need a new governor spring, the one thats on it is stretched and needs replaced. Thanks for Watching!!!
Nice video. Thank you. But wish more governor adjustment videos online would simply describe the governor adjustment at the actuator shaft not clockwise or counterclockwise, or front/rear of engine, but simply turned as far as it will go in the SAME DIRECTION that the arm moves when moving throttle to to high speed. If the arm traveled to the left when moving the throttle to high, then the shaft is turned to left until it stops. Arm goes to the right when moving throttle to high? Turn gov actuator right till stop. Much easier to remember and applies to all engines. And hold that gov arm end with a little zip tie for heck's sake till the nut is tight. "securing end of control arm while adjusting governor on snowthrower engines" is listed at no.1,446,348 in the official wiki list of 3.24 billion (and growing) recommended uses for nylon zip ties :)
Your welcome! Out of curiosity, where did you get a new block for it? yeah they will do that, most common problem is surging up and down, which is very very annoying haha Yeah it does seem like its to simple but it works! no problem! thanks for watching!
sister machine,snapper ss822ex snowblower,8hp B&S engine,replaced primer bulb/cleaned carb,float,needle valve/new gas,starts but runs rough,will not idle up to full speed,even tried moving governor arm almost dies.Is this Governor problem or carb problem...Thanks for your help find your video's far more informative than any others. Bill
Sounds more like a carb problem since its dying when you override the governor, its probably trying to run to lean, it could be a clogged passages or the carb is just not adjusted right. It could also be weak spark causing that, check the plug if its yellow or orange spark or intermittent that could be the problem (either plug or coil). Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Hi, thanks for your answer, I replaced the plug and checked it plenty of spark,next tried to change out the needle valve/seat inlet, ordered parts carb 12A1 03 0148 E8 briggs and straton , my carb has brass seat inlet, looked it up and came across part #690577 seat-inlet but on website says not for my machine, chatted with rep at replacement parts and she said she talked to people there and it would work, got it and Not the right part.New part 690577 is longer/wider than one in my carb, i have a picture but no place to send it here(sorry).Now wondering if someone before had changed the carb out with a different one then belongs on machine,there is a number stamped on carb on side 216701...any idea's would be appreciated Thanks Bill
Your video on this subject is superior to any other video. I spent hours trying to figure this out, looking at other videos, and your video was short, succinct, direct, and informative. I was able to go out and adjust the high RPM's in 5 minutes. Thank you so much!
100%. I too, have spent hours fiddling with it all to no success. Then I somehow did something and it worked, until I did another adjustment and ruined the setting again. After spending hours searching online for a fix, I finally stumbled across this video that is so simple and makes me feel like an idiot.
excellent tutorial!! No loud music, foul language, or any non professional distractions to take away from the education.....great job!!
Thanks, really appreciate that! I try to focus on the subject, i hate to watch a video when someone has music playing in the background. Thanks for Watching!!!
Yeah, like hideous teeth in bad need for braces.
Of all the web pages i've gone to and about 10 videos, THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST EXAMPLE OF HOW TO ADJUST THE GOUVERNOR ON A SMALL ENGINE. Thank you for making and sharing this video. I knew it was a simple process but could never get a straight forward example of how to do the actual adjustment, everyone wants to talk about springs and how to "jimmy" springs to control idle speed... thanks for the video two thumbs up!!
+doug h I appreciate that! I usually try to keep things as simple and to the point as i can. Yeah, sometimes you have to bend the tabs to fine tune speed, especially on generators. Your welcome!!! Thanks for Watching!!!
You have the BEST small engine repair videos. You cover all the experienced-based, necessary repairs. I feel majorly accomplished having used several of your video tutorials. You really show the important details that usually are intentionally omitted from the testimony. Outstanding !
I have watched others try to tell us how to adjust the governor on a motor. You are the only one that I have found that go straight to the subject. Most people do not know how to teach because they go through to much and get to complicated. Keep making videos.
Appreciate that, I try to keep my videos as simple as possible and to the point, I do get carried away or get off subject now and though haha Will do! Thanks for Watching!!!
I feel silly saying this but I have struggled with this for years.. You have made an AWESOME video .. the best and most simple explanation anyone could ask for.. I appreciate your time and effort..Cheers
This is by far, the best, straight to the point, clear video description I've seen yet. I've watched about 30videos or so. Just opened up my shop last year (2 more weeks is my 1 year anniv for opening. doing free labor all day for all 70 of my customers if they provide the parts.!) Couldn't ask for a better video, the most direct!
Jeff Fixererer Thanks, I really appreciate that! Glad to hear it helped out! Congratulations on your shop! I hope to one day have my own shop. haha i hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi there from Australia.
Your videos are fantastic! They have given me the confidence to tackle things like this instead of paying big money for someone else to fix it. And by the way, my wife is quite impressed too. Thinks I am quite the handyman thanks to you! I owe you one😉
Just about to try process and adjust my govenor. I just fixed my one piece carburetor. I cleaned out all the jets but still wouldn't work. As it happened, it was the needle getting stuck and not dropping in and out properly. Not getting fuel. I had to drill it out slightly (in reverse) just to get a little bit more clearance. No amount of cleaning worked. Thanks heaps. Mick.
Hi! Appreciate that! Glad to hear! Thats why i make these videos to help people save money by doing repairs your self. haha i hear ya! I hear ya, sometimes they can be really bad. Your welcome glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
I love that you compared the governor adjustment to a front end alignment. It makes sense. Thanks again.
I hear ya, it is true, doesn't make much for things to get out of adjustment/alignment. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
I have been searching for info on the throttle, choke, and governor on my riding mower. I am so glad that I found your videos. Just what I needed. You definitely do need to "keep them coming"!
I hear ya, glad to help out! I try to upload a new video every other week but I'm limited on time. Thanks for Watching!!!
The best description I've seen for adjusting the governor on a small engine.
Thanks, yeah I figured I would make a video on this, there isn't to much out there on this since you hardly ever have to do it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Good job! As a note from a retired ASE Master but green Loctite is low strength and applied after a nut is installed. Now, I will do this to my tiller because it runs faster than normal and won't idle down. If I am throwing snow, I like to push the throttle down while the mail guy/gal shows up. I use plastic covers for manuals, but take photos to numbers of the snow machine, s/n, model and engine to. Clean & brighten photos & print them place these in the file cabinet as well. It helps 4-7 years later when things need adjusted or fixed.
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, Retired. Thanks!
At 2:47 you explained my problem! I was having an issue with mice that chewed my plug wire down to bare wire and shorting out. I took head and carb off to check valves, but never touched the gov assembly. When I put it all back together, it was way over revving. I couldn't figure out what I did to make it rev up like that, but I knew the fix was resetting it. Not untill you explained that anytime you take the carb off, you should re-adjust your gov....I didn't know that! Thanks for the info! Great vid, bro!
Awesome video. I have been looking for a video like this for weeks. I called Briggs yesterday, and there engine support team wouldn't tell me how to do it. I was checking your channel out, and low and behold this was the first video.
Thanks so much man. You don't know how much your videos help us out. Appreciate you taking the time to show us how to do this. My next goal is to get a tachometer to tune the carb. Trying to figure out how to tune it properly, with idle, and top no load.
Just wanted to say a quick thank you. I put a new short block in my rider (13.5hp B&S) and got it back running but couldn't figure out how to set the governor. It was running really high and would bog down with the engaging of the blades and going up a hill. I had looked for quite a while on the internet and couldn't really find what I needed. I found your video and couldn't believe how easy it was and I was a very skeptical. Well I went out and adjusted it and it worked great. Thanks!!!!!!
Dang ! That might explain why (after installing a new carb kit) the engine on my tiller is acting up. A simple adjustment that I never thought about. Thanks a million. I was about to buy another kit thinking it was a bad one. Thumbs up
Another great video Frank! You have the best small engine videos on You Tube. I always thought this was not adjustable. I have a 12.5 hp Briggs that is surging right now after a carb rebuild. I will bet that this is the problem. I will adjust the governor in the morning. Thanks so much for the timely video!
Excellent video. One of the best I've seen. Not a lot of wasted rambling on, just good information presented in a good fashion. Thank you very much. I'll be watching more of your vids.
+James Brown Thanks, appreciate that! Yeah i usually try to stay to the point, now and then I'll get sidetracked haha Your welcome, appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
These videos have been a life savor, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Between this video and the one that explains how the governor works where it was completely disassembled, I have a very good understanding of how to recognize and fix governor issues. I fixed my rototiller that was basically new, I bought from someone who couldn't fix it and now it runs like new! it was loping... Thank you sir!
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
This is the exact video I needed! I just bought an old murray riding mower and it has the 12.5 band g i/c motor. It runs very high rpm pretty much non stop and doenst have much of a change in the throttle,. it does surge in a rythmic fashion and blows a lot of oil/white smoke out of the exaust when it does the surge. lawn mower mechanic up the street said to try adjusting the governor. this video was perfect for showing me what to do. I just hope it does the trick once i actually do it.
You just saved me! I changed the carb on my B&G 9.5 snow blower engine and it was racing after I started it. I stopped it in a second or two. I thought I had a bad carb. I was extra careful not change anything but it turns out the governor was way out!
Thank you!
Did yours start up and go to full thottle? Mine is and i cant get my head around it...
@@dieselbossbrandon it did. It was because I didn’t set the mechanical governed correctly. I needed to do valve adjustment after.
@@grahamlocklin thank you! Im gonna set it today! Its my sons new tractor hes been building and he just got it running and it scared both of us when it took off at full speed lol
Over seven years and it was exactly what I was looking for today. Thank you, 7 years later!
I hear ya! glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
excellent! this is exactly how to adjust the governor. Normally you will not need to do this, but with old antique motors, these friction/clamp type fasteners get rusty and they slip. The other thing that can happen, and I want to mention this to anyone dealing with an older vintage motor is that the governor arm has a bushing type seal. This bushing type seal can build up lots of crude an dirt and that can cause the governor arm to get "stuck" or bind up in one range of motion. So before doing anything, spray some brake cleaner all over the governor arm bushing seal. Blast it with some compressed air, then coat it lightly with regular motor oil. (the brake cleaner will cause most rubber bushings and seals to dry out and then they can crack...so put some lube oil on it to prevent that. It's like how you wash your hair. shampoo to get rid of dirt and then a conditioner to prevent dry out. Same idea.
also...on old vintage motors, springs rust out and break. Always check that ALL springs are intact, in the correct holes/positions, and replace them if they are weak or stiff.
t
Your two govenor videos saved me from having to dismantle my genset. Thanks 👍
Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
brotha, THANK YOU!!! I have never adjusted a governor before and I been needing to on an old 1982 JD214 garden tractor. This solved my problem! THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!
glad someone finally records a real how to video, very detailed, stays on topic,clearly speaks and demonstrates,no background bs like music,and he isnt trying to break into the acting career by dressing up as some bucktoothed idiot on other videos ive tried to watch and learn but couldnt because the acting was in the way...great job..and great teaching
Appreciate the kind words, I put alot of work into my videos and try to stay on topic! Thanks again, and Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for your videos! Between this one on adjusting the governor and your others on rebuilding and tuning the flowjet carbs, my old B&S powered mower is running perfectly. Thanks for take the time to share your knowledge.
David Stonner your welcome! Glad to hear they have helped you! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks. I had rebuilt a 30 year old Briggs, 1904oo series engine, on a Mighty Mac chipper, governor similar set up to this one, my engine is horizontal. My engine was way over revving, was driving me nuts right after a rebuild like that wanted to break engine in without throwing the rod out. I knew there was a governor adjustment of some sort on that shaft you worked on. Here I'd been trying to adjust my maximum governed speed with a nut which has s spring behind it, on my engine which is located behind the white (black on mine) plastic throttle slider, and sticks out toward the pto side. This spring / nut does not seem to be present on lawn mower application in video, at least that I could see.
This WORKED, my engine now runs at a decent regulated speed not too fast like the Wright Brothers only caring if the engine lasted long enough for that first 59 second flight, lol. Engine purrs right along as it continues to settle in, undergoing break in from its rebuild.
Chippers always run really fast, one reason chipper engines do not last. I still have not found out what the adjusting nut with spring behind it exactly does on my engine, but believe it may have something to do with running speed although does not allow you the wide a range you have on a lawnmower application. Way engine is mounted you can NOT safely make adjustments with engine running.
Some differences on my chipper engine, are the white (or black) plastic square throttle slider on mine, you can NOT move. Also, look ma, no third hand required: did not need hold throttle wide open while turning governor shaft to the right, and tightening the clamp nut. My engine the linkage kept the throttle WIDE open for you. In fact idk what the idle screw even has got to do with anything on mine, only way that idle screw EVER touches, running or stopped is if you somehow override the throttle rod linkage manually.
Good informative video, great pictures, and as another poster mentioned no music viewers may not like. Nice job!
Another excellent video; clear and concise. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Thank you - step by step, methodical, and no distractions - thanks again Sir - V/r Steve
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
man I keep coming back to your vid they are the best on UA-cam very helpful. keep them coming they sure do help me I appreciate your time!!!!
I hear ya, i really appreciate that! I wish i had time to upload more than i do! Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video! Thanks. I've just rebuilt a Briggs and Stratton engine on a Husqvarna mower.
This video has helped so much! Thanks from Wales (UK)!!
Wyn Edwards Appreciate that, your welcome always glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi
I’ve a Briggs quantum engine and I’ve cleaned the carb and replaced air filter and gaskets spark plug and governor spring and adjusted the governor arm as per video but still engine races ?
Great video, helped me fix my genset. Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial.
Hey man, just wanted to drop a note to say I appreciate you doing this. Pretty sure this is the problem with what I'm dealing with.
First off, fantastic explanation! I watched the video on what a governor does and then followed it up with this video. I have the opposite to your problem where it is surging at idle actually, hope this does the trick :)
Appreciate that, glad to help out! I hear ya, alot of times if they are running to lean it may be a carburetor issue causing that too. Thanks for Watching!!!
Super video, someone who knows what he's talking about and makes it simple to understand,
Appreciate that, Thanks for Watching!!!
I think I see. Every day I feel a little closer to really understanding how the governor and autochoke work. My B&S has a similar setup. It has a half moon governor shaft. I'd like to have a special tool for that. I really don't quite understand the throttle + choke position of the throttle control though. There doesn't seem to be any connection from the throttle cable to the choke at all. The only linkage for the choke leads up into the engine near the muffler, I assume this being the heat controlled autochoke. I understand the governor action in the following way:
For a given midrange throttle control position, when the oil slinger (or the air vanes) go faster, such as under a decreased load, the pin comes out (or the air arm moves out), which pulls the governor arm forward (to the right), which closes the throttle valve a little bit to slow the RPM down. Similarly, when an increased load slows the engine down, the governor arm moves to the rear (to the left), opening the throttle valve a little to increase engine RPM. I can understand that. Now when you adjusted the governor arm, you were effectively adjusting the governor up against it's closest position to either the oil slinger or the air vanes (depending on the type of governor). Taryl says to hold this shaft position, then adjust the governor arm so that the throttle is all the way open (as far away from the idle screw as it will go). Then he says to tighten the governor arm to the governor shaft while holding these two positions. This agrees with what you said. So that must be correct.
The spring that rides on the throttle linkage, which connects the throttle to the governor, must only serve the purpose of keeping the linkage from falling apart, and performs no other function.
My throttle cable is attached to a lever having a throttle control spring running to the governor arm. This spring must be the important one.
I would also assume that the clamp holding the throttle cable down should be loosened, and with the throttle control in idle, the throttle cable should be adjusted in its clamp so that the throttle control spring is just at its limp position (no tension).
At idle, the throttle control spring is limp, allowing the governor arm to rest against the stop, being held against the stop by an internal spring inside the engine I assume.
Here is what confuses me:
The choke seems to have no input from the throttle cable, its only connection being the autochoke linkage running up inside the engine cover near the muffler. But that doesn't seem right. Obviously, the choke comes on in this throttle control position because the engine won't start cold unless it is in that position. So what am I not seeing?
Sir this was an outstanding straight to the point valuable tutorial. Appreciate you and ya earned a sub brother.
Thanks for showing how to do this. I have a Yamaha MT 110 2-stroke lawnmower motor and it was giving me all hell revving like it was going to take off whenever it feels like it. Well, just as you said: 5 minutes later the problem is fixed & it is running smoothly and solid. The throttle cable was replaced some time ago and ever since that it was uncontrollable but worked sort of.
Your welcome, glad it fixed your problem! Thanks for watching!
Excellent videos (this one and throttle linkage one). Saved my butt! Just rebuild the LMT carb and couldn't get it to work properly. Overlooked governor adjustment like you said. Thank you so much!!!!
Appreciate that, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you. I did need a 3rd hand but sorted the over-reving for me. Can go back to happily mowing and feeding the chickens the clippings.🙂
jj again. The air vane on my 6.75 just works the carb's choke butterfly. I believe it's Briggs' autochoke feature added some years ago to supposedly make for easier starting for the avg. homeowner; that is, no primer nor choke to fool with. The carb's inside butterfly (throttle) is operated by linkages routed from front to back finally disappearing through the crankcase. There is a bolt/jamb nut and shaft just like on a mechanical gov. Glad to send a picture if you will tell me how. Appreciate your patience; I've learned a lot from you.
I worked on those before, I don't care much for it, i'd rather have a manual choke or primer. that is a mechanical governor going to the inside, it should just have a air vane choke. it could very well be the slinger / gov is bad or just needs adjusted like i did in this video. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for your informational videos! I'm just learning small engine repair as a hobby and your videos are so informative, educational, and incredibly helpful!
Thank you so much for this video! I have recently taken off the carburettor and the engine's started surging since that. I will give this a go - I'm sure this is the cause. Thanks again!
Did the governor adjustment fix the problem?
@@MaxTurbocor Hi there, yes it did work!
Well here it is a few years after you so kindly made this video and I find that I should thank you,,,Thank You! It took me some time to find a video that is useful and detailed, I didn't even have to hear all about things that have nothing to do with the engine. Thank You again.
Your welcome, glad to help out! I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Just exactly what I have been needing ,to the point simple ,and short Taanks
Thanks man. I put a new carb on my old John Deere mower and couldn't figure out why it was revving so high.
Your welcome! I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Just set my govner due to surging revs.( up and down) exact ally the way you showed. Everything on my 550 brig and strat was the same as video, mower runs better then new, in fact I'm concerned it revs too high lol. Fantastic information!
I hear ya, glad to help out! If it is running to fast, you can adjust that out with the throttle cable. thanks for watching!!!
I have a briggs and stratton 15.5 motor on my riding mower. I recently had to replace the camshaft. After putting it all back together I find it runs rough . I also adjusted the valve lash. Still the same problem . I'm hoping the governor adjustment eill smooth it out. Thanks ron Mc.
+Ronald McCready I hear ya. It could be carburetor issues, assuming the cam was replaced to fix the compression release, but it could be the governor as well since it may have a different thickness gasket on the crank cover or something, sometimes it doesn't take much to throw it off. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you, again for an excellent explanation! I am really benefiting in maintaining my motors.
thanks for the video ,i was beating my brains out trying to figure out why the surge ,I pulled the new carb off twice cleaning it and it didn't help I seen this video and in 3 minutes wah-la ,
,,thanks again
Good & easy explanation of a little understood mechanism.
Thanks for Watching!!!
After using your info about adjusting governor I adjusted as you described and it still revving when throttle moved up to engage mower.
Usually if this doesn't fix it, it can be a linkage bent or a spring that is to tight, usually from being installed in wrong hole on the arm or the arm is bent to much, worst case would be the internal governor part (oil slinger/governor weights) is bad or broke. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video best so far straight to the point
Thank you for the information. Now I can adjust the governor on my Kohler 5400 series engine.
Thanks you made it look so simple my engine has been surging glad I found your video
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
nice one! I've been repairing mowers for years and didn't know about that adjustment.. Thanks :)
Thanks. I hear ya, I didn't know about it either until about 3 years ago i think it was, had a 12 horse briggs that was surging no matter how i adjusted the carburetor, did some research and adjusted it, and it smoothed right out, wish i made a video on that motor. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video. It helped and eliminated the surge!
Thanks, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks buddy for the great instructions. Well narrated and concise👍🏻
your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Just recently, I have a Briggs 331877-0869-g5, about 11 years old, I did some deck repairs, tested by mowing some lawn and worked fine, when I pulled into garage, started revving to max, now, if I start it, immediately goes to high rpms, governor arm doesn't move, but if I move it by hand it will slow down. I've drained oil, gas, took deck off, getting ready to tear into it, but if you have a different opinion, let me know. I need to fix quickly, cause spring is here and the grass grows fast. Thanks, Brian
Thanks, Much more helpful than the governor adjustment page on the Briggs website.
+Will M. Your welcome! I hear ya, it is weird how they explain it. Thanks for Watching!!!
+fnaguitarplayer9 Finally, a "UA-cam Expert" who actually knows what he's doing! I just remember to: "...move the governor arm to hold the throttle in the WFO ("wide f*****g open") and turn and lock the governor shaft the same direction as the gov. arm moved to open the throttle & tighten. I hope you're not like that moon-faced "donyboy73" kid who tells you to completely disassemble the starter from the blower housing to replace the rope and/or recoil spring on older Briggs'. I told him you don't need to EVER remove the pulley AT ALL unless to REPLACE that pulley. He cussed me out instead of thanking me. Of course, I've only been doing this "small engine repair" thing since October of 1973 so what do I know? On the 12**** series Briggs-powered lawn mowers, I got it down to where I never even had to remove anything to replace the rope. I mean, there are those decorative plastic round covers that come off w/no tools. That has to come off.
Appreciate that! I tried to explain it as simple as i could. I hear ya, I've watched alot of his videos he's good at it, but everyone has there own way of doing things. I know what you mean, your right, you don't ever have to take it off unless the spring is broke or its broke itself, you can wind the rope with it still in the shroud. Faster and easier. Sometimes the rope is to big and its hard to do though. Thanks for Watching!!!
If the rope is too big, go for smaller like 4 or 4.5. I like using the smaller because you can get more in and you don't pull out to the end and dislocate your shoulder. Besides, when I'm done working on something, all you have to do is pull the rope out like maybe 2 feet at most for 1 pull starts. Did you make a Briggs spring installing tool from an old 399671 starter clutch? You weld a shaft with a 'T' handle on the square trip after taking it apart. As a kid, I used to replace ropes on my 1970 Steens Taco 99 mini bike with it's 5 horse Briggs by taking the damn thing apart. Somehow, I'd get it back together w/o putting my eye out with the spring. That's the way stupid donyboy73 tells people how to replace a roe and/or spring. He's still young. ME? I'm 61 and still have the Taco 45 years later! Never had the engine open and it still starts first pull. I did replace the tank when I left some gas in it and it rusted out. I made a "Rat Bike" out of it. If you click on my name, a bunch of pictures should come up. I think I post some pictures of it. If not, I'll do that now. Later.
Yeah that would work too, i like the idea of having more rope on it, it does make a difference. No i didn't, i'll have to try that out. I hear ya! I hate messing with those springs. its a pain. I hear ya, i'll have to check that out!
Thanks! Really appreciate that! That probably is whats wrong with it. Thats how my rider was doing about 4 years ago, i thought it was in the carburetor all along haha That was pretty good timing haha no problem! thanks for watching!!!
Finally!! Just the video I was looking for !!
Great video, I will adjust mine in the morning.👍👍
OK so now I just replaced the carburetor and ignition coil on my craftsman YT 3000 tractor. It has a 21 hp single Briggs & Stratton so when I loosen that not do I turn left or turn right because my engine right now is a racing like hell.
I bought the short block from small engine supply. com. It was right about $300. Again, thanks so much!!!
Thanks for this video, Helped me set up my governor once and for all!
Your Welcome! heard that, they can be a pain when they are out of adjustment. Thanks for Watching!!!
You are a god thank you! never would have found that to be the problem
Thanks a lot for professional explanation. I salute you.
Excellent video! Thank you so much for posting this. Can’t wait to try it on my surging motor.
Thanks, your welcome, hopefully it comes in handy one day for ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Did it help stop the surging?
Right on! Thanks for the good information. I'll see if my "new" generator will compensate for electrical load with rpm after making this adjustment
+Jeff Kennedy Your welcome, glad to help out! Yeah alot of times this will cause a engine to seem weak, or a linkage not setup right, i worked on one a while back that the governor wasn't working at all, found out the linkage the governor spring connects was bent! Thanks for Watching!!!
My only experience has included go karts, and the governor worked against full throttle. With the generator starting at full throttle, then the gov closing it to regulate speed..I thought it might be wrong, but now I know what to look at. You saved one more vintage briggs from the scrap yard!
+Jeff Kennedy I hear ya! Glad to help out! I will be posting a couple generator videos here soon (not governor related but carburetor repair and info on getting a generator thats not generating to generate).
+Jeff Kennedy I hear ya! Glad to help out! I will be posting a couple generator videos here soon (not governor related but carburetor repair and info on getting a generator thats not generating to generate).
THANKS! You helped me to solve my mower problem.
your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for great short explanation
Thanks. Yeah i just put it up yesterday, thats funny because someone else said i put the video up at the right time as well haha. Thats crazy that they wouldn't tell you how to do it, but it really doesn't surprise me. Your welcome! I need to get a tach as well, it would be very handy to have. thanks for watching!!!
So simple to do when you know what to do, thanks.
+Fran Haydock Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey thanks for this! Helped me on my JD D110!
Great Video just what a needed. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thanks, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video will try adjustment today mine surges at idle but when I put a load on it it runs perfect
If the linkage is unhooked and its hard to move, the oil slinger/governor may be broken or stuck or possibly its way out of adjustment and needs to be adjusted like in this video. Rare problem, but it does happen. Thanks for Watching!
Excellent video for my Briggs and Stratton 19.5 engine governor lever. Thank you!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Very helpful and simple to understand.
Mike Nelson I try to make my videos as simple as possible. Thanks for Watching!!!
Fantastic! Just what I was looking for and great video.
Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for this information...I'll try it this morning and see if it he's the surging on my older 8hp Briggs & Stratton. I've tried just about everything else I could think of.
+David Struve Your welcome! It usually helps, made a big difference on a few 12HP motors i have. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey Partner! my 12.5 briggs is reved up and won't idle cleaned the card as instructed the throttle plate is closed with the governer arm from the motor is to the front of the motor with tension push it back a small amount and it over revs adjusted the governer as instructed. Ps thanks for the quick response yesterday I'm looking forward to the opposed briggs vids, TIA!
Jorge Lopez Hey! Have you checked the intake gasket, sometimes if there is a air leak there it will idle up really high. But there is also a chance that something is wrong with the internal parts of the governor, on the oil slinger, thats about the only thing thats left if the linkage moves free and the governor is adjusted correctly. Your welcome! Yeah, i plan on making a few on the opposed twins. Thanks for Watching!
thank ya soo much for this video now i can get my offroad mower project back up and running!
Thank you for your video now my ride on lawn mower runs great
Your welcome! Glad to hear it helped out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Man i never understood what was going on w that damn thing till now,,,man thanks alot..
I hear ya! Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for this Vid. Hard to find any DIY work for a Briggs 8.5 made in 99.
have you adjusted the cable, loosen the clamp, set the throttle to fast then pull the plastic (or metal if its a older engine) all the way back? If you've done that, then you need a new governor spring, the one thats on it is stretched and needs replaced. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks very much for your info. Great job
i'll have to check them out, thanks for getting back with me! no problem!
This was VERY helpful
Thank you
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Nice video. Thank you. But wish more governor adjustment videos online would simply describe the governor adjustment at the actuator shaft not clockwise or counterclockwise, or front/rear of engine, but simply turned as far as it will go in the SAME DIRECTION that the arm moves when moving throttle to to high speed. If the arm traveled to the left when moving the throttle to high, then the shaft is turned to left until it stops. Arm goes to the right when moving throttle to high? Turn gov actuator right till stop. Much easier to remember and applies to all engines.
And hold that gov arm end with a little zip tie for heck's sake till the nut is tight. "securing end of control arm while adjusting governor on snowthrower engines" is listed at no.1,446,348 in the official wiki list of 3.24 billion (and growing) recommended uses for nylon zip ties :)
Makes sense, good advise about a zip tie, that was annoying, most of the time i don't have that much trouble with one haha thanks for watching!
Your welcome! Out of curiosity, where did you get a new block for it? yeah they will do that, most common problem is surging up and down, which is very very annoying haha Yeah it does seem like its to simple but it works! no problem! thanks for watching!
thanks for the video,solved my my 11hp Briggs huntingg and surging
+James tuttle Your welcome! Glad to hear! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for your time and a well done video!!!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for making this tutorial!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
das video hilft mir gerade voll weiter,danke! ;D
sister machine,snapper ss822ex snowblower,8hp B&S engine,replaced primer bulb/cleaned carb,float,needle valve/new gas,starts but runs rough,will not idle up to full speed,even tried moving governor arm almost dies.Is this Governor problem or carb problem...Thanks for your help find your video's far more informative than any others.
Bill
Sounds more like a carb problem since its dying when you override the governor, its probably trying to run to lean, it could be a clogged passages or the carb is just not adjusted right. It could also be weak spark causing that, check the plug if its yellow or orange spark or intermittent that could be the problem (either plug or coil). Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Hi, thanks for your answer, I replaced the plug and checked it plenty of spark,next tried to change out the needle valve/seat inlet, ordered parts carb 12A1 03 0148 E8 briggs and straton , my carb has brass seat inlet, looked it up and came across part #690577 seat-inlet but on website says not for my machine, chatted with rep at replacement parts and she said she talked to people there and it would work, got it and Not the right part.New part 690577 is longer/wider than one in my carb, i have a picture but no place to send it here(sorry).Now wondering if someone before had changed the carb out with a different one then belongs on machine,there is a number stamped on carb on side 216701...any idea's would be appreciated
Thanks Bill