Built a number of LS motors and this is actually pretty common on OEM timing sets. GM uses the same timing set for both aluminum and iron blocks but aluminum blocks grow about 2x as much as iron blocks. So the chain has to have alittle slack as the block grows as it warms up.
Normal, adding a tensioner does nothing other than make you feel better. The effective timing is always on the leading side of the rotation anyway. Put it together and run it.
I agree with the comment below,that's if the sprockets are used that usually is wear on both the chain & sprockets. There is a bracket available which screws onto the camshaft retainer plate which saves drilling holes into the engine block,it enables an LS2,LS3,etc timing to be used on the LS engine blocks which doesn't have the threaded holes to mount it. I need to get a decent scan tool for the LS1 engine in my car as I think that a P0336 code may be getting set in mine but I need to confirm that before replacing the timing chain.
The slack is fine if it's under 3/8" yours looks fine as the engine temp rises the block expands and the tension reduces so you need that much slack or the chain would snap. Run it. And as for your lifter trays, the comment that says they are upside down in wrong, they are fine. They need to look like you're looking into the wide end of a funnel so they taper down to the lifter so when you install the push rods they follow the taper to the center of the lifter and you don't have to worry about if it is centered or not. I don't know who's putting in there lifter trays the other way but that would make it really difficult to get your pushrods in. You're doing fine trust your instinct.
Mr Taylor Texas. Helped my sons friend out with iron block 5.3L to replace front seal and modify his oil pump. He bought all dealer parts in Jan 2020 and they where loose as well. The exact same in the video. The engine was on a stand so we addressed several things, including shining the oil pressure relief valve and smoothed the oil pumps inlet, rounded the exit 90degree outlet angle and oblongEd the iron exhaust manifolds end hole, ground a smooth pad on top for flat washer so bolts don’t break. Use a “Rat Tail” file in a drill w/4” gas pipe & hold-guide with using reverse & forward to get an extra 3/16” of room. I did this at the dealer on another brand for over a hundred plus vehicles. Never fails and yes, still can happen on headers w/thick steel flange on an aluminum head.
the specs for the engine slack is in the technical manual.. states i believe no more that either 3/8 or 5/8 of an inch slack.. more than that can be detrimental to the engine.. get your self a haynes manual for chevrolet trucks.. 99-2004. it gives you all the engine specs
This information is from a contributing author in a Haynes manual as it is not published in GM’s service information. I worked with still active GM techs and they simply say if it has never been open (And it’s Easy to Tell) they will replace it at 250k miles or if they are in there and slack can be felt or seen on the crank gear at the 6:00 PM location. They note there is no nylon jacketed teeth like the old days or the aftermarket “Duel Row” T-Chains that work great but won’t last 100,000 miles as they stretch too much real quick. Plus 6 of these techs have a combined 200 years of GM dealer experience have never seen a broken cam bolt or have one break during service.
So Was This Way Too Much? Or Normal? I Got A 3.8 V6 (totally different I know) That's Got New Gears And Double Timing Chain That Has About The Same Amount Of Slack With Only Like 500 Miles. My Guess Is It's Just Cus The Cam Can Freely Move It Can Make Chain Slack Look Extreme.
when the engine is at operating temperature, slack of timing chain decreases, but I don't know, how much slack is in your engine, when is cold, maybe i'ts written in manufacturer's service manual ?
Built a number of LS motors and this is actually pretty common on OEM timing sets. GM uses the same timing set for both aluminum and iron blocks but aluminum blocks grow about 2x as much as iron blocks. So the chain has to have alittle slack as the block grows as it warms up.
Normal, adding a tensioner does nothing other than make you feel better. The effective timing is always on the leading side of the rotation anyway. Put it together and run it.
I agree with the comment below,that's if the sprockets are used that usually is wear on both the chain & sprockets.
There is a bracket available which screws onto the camshaft retainer plate which saves drilling holes into the engine block,it enables an LS2,LS3,etc timing to be used on the LS engine blocks which doesn't have the threaded holes to mount it.
I need to get a decent scan tool for the LS1 engine in my car as I think that a P0336 code may be getting set in mine but I need to confirm that before replacing the timing chain.
That's about how much play is in mine I just installed knew gear and LS9 cam in my motor
The slack is fine if it's under 3/8" yours looks fine as the engine temp rises the block expands and the tension reduces so you need that much slack or the chain would snap. Run it. And as for your lifter trays, the comment that says they are upside down in wrong, they are fine. They need to look like you're looking into the wide end of a funnel so they taper down to the lifter so when you install the push rods they follow the taper to the center of the lifter and you don't have to worry about if it is centered or not. I don't know who's putting in there lifter trays the other way but that would make it really difficult to get your pushrods in. You're doing fine trust your instinct.
I just put on a new Sealed Power kit and it has that much slack!
Mr Taylor Texas. Helped my sons friend out with iron block 5.3L to replace front seal and modify his oil pump. He bought all dealer parts in Jan 2020 and they where loose as well. The exact same in the video. The engine was on a stand so we addressed several things, including shining the oil pressure relief valve and smoothed the oil pumps inlet, rounded the exit 90degree outlet angle and oblongEd the iron exhaust manifolds end hole, ground a smooth pad on top for flat washer so bolts don’t break. Use a “Rat Tail” file in a drill w/4” gas pipe & hold-guide with using reverse & forward to get an extra 3/16” of room. I did this at the dealer on another brand for over a hundred plus vehicles. Never fails and yes, still can happen on headers w/thick steel flange on an aluminum head.
pretty normal for ls2 chain
That slack looks about normal, i rebuilt two different LM7s and both had slack. Also they both got new timing chain sets (chain and cam sprocket).
What did you figure out on this one?
the specs for the engine slack is in the technical manual.. states i believe no more that either 3/8 or 5/8 of an inch slack.. more than that can be detrimental to the engine.. get your self a haynes manual for chevrolet trucks.. 99-2004. it gives you all the engine specs
This information is from a contributing author in a Haynes manual as it is not published in GM’s service information. I worked with still active GM techs and they simply say if it has never been open (And it’s Easy to Tell) they will replace it at 250k miles or if they are in there and slack can be felt or seen on the crank gear at the 6:00 PM location. They note there is no nylon jacketed teeth like the old days or the aftermarket “Duel Row” T-Chains that work great but won’t last 100,000 miles as they stretch too much real quick. Plus 6 of these techs have a combined 200 years of GM dealer experience have never seen a broken cam bolt or have one break during service.
building a turbo 4.8 and that looks like the amount of slack I have, should be fine
So Was This Way Too Much? Or Normal? I Got A 3.8 V6 (totally different I know) That's Got New Gears And Double Timing Chain That Has About The Same Amount Of Slack With Only Like 500 Miles. My Guess Is It's Just Cus The Cam Can Freely Move It Can Make Chain Slack Look Extreme.
when the engine is at operating temperature, slack of timing chain decreases, but I don't know, how much slack is in your engine, when is cold, maybe i'ts written in manufacturer's service manual ?
You want to keep it under 3/8 ".
Diagnosis ?
looks like your reusing the old gears , that will give you slack with a new chain , buy new gears.
Still running?
There should be some slack or it will break when tensioned.
way to much
Your lifter trays are upside down.. you'll never get your push rods In
Looks like the reliefs are correct to me.Flip them and they will rub the block.
Wait it looks like the chain is not on the crank sprocket?
looks like you have worn gears