A word of warning, if you do a few runs consecutively or have it for a few years, you will almost 100% likely cause heat warping to your 3D printed front and acrylic sheet. I know this because my design is similar in that I took the front off the original oven to replace it with my own designed 3D printed front. I used ABS which is okay to about 100C and better than PETG or PLA but it wasn't enough. In future will use Nylon or CF-Nylon. Will probably add a strip of titanium or Stainless Steel as a thermal insulator between oven door and Front-interface printed housing.
I tried something similar a while ago, but putting the electronics inside the Oven was a mistake. After a few hours it started to produce errors due to the bad heat isolation between the reflow chamber and where I put the electrics. Your design seems better in that regard though. What I noticed was, that turning the oven on and off by hand and using a thermocouple as reference was plenty good for my needs. I did PCBs with 150mm x 150mm and ground planes without problems
@@makermoekoe I've seen a few hacked together, but I haven't seen a proper PCB that could just be installed. It was one of the projects on my list. You could sell the ovens with PCB as a kit.
Nicely done! I always like seeing video of the moment the solder melts and creates the fillet. :)) A couple questions: 1) With such a large oven, is there a problem with thermal 'lag' especially on the ramp down? 2) Cool idea with the vacuum hold-down, though I thought I saw some mis-registration with the stencil. Is there a way to make sure it's dead-on? 3) Have you ever used dry-transfer letters to label your acrylic. I've used white letters on smoky gray, and it usually looks really cool! Can't wait to see your next one. Take care.
Man, the quality of your work is mighty impressive. And your lab looks awesome as well. And this gold enig finish on black PCBs is very beautiful. I'm working on an ESP-32 controller for a personal project, and I wish I knew how to do 4 layer design or do impedance matching for ceramic antennas. Any tips?
Thank you so much for those words! Regarding the four layer stackup there are awesome videos by EEVblog which I can definitely recommend. Impedance matching isn't easy at all... For some antennas there are great datasheets with simulation stuff but sometimes it's just trial & error for me as well. The antenna which I'm currently using has this little helper: product.tdk.com/de/search/rf/rf/antenna/simulation?pid=1000000249767
Cool as usual, but the standard reflow process has a limited T and time, so-called profile curve(usually IPC/JEDEC J-STD-020D.1 or so), you can find that in many silicon part's PDF. An oven like this can control T, however, many SMT parts are sensitive to accumulated exposed time(low-noise amps, plastic connectors, stacked film-caps etc). In fact, simple hot-air may be safer.
@@makermoekoe lol. you are right. U showed a lot of skills that individual developers can take advantage of. Two different types of stencil fixing techniques. -vacuum -A physical fixture -made by 3D printing. Solder paste application device using stencil plate also. Two different types of SMD soldering techniques. -hot plate in the open air -Oven in the closed chamber Pre-soldering techniques and flux application techniques. Display fixing hole using tweezers. also Fine technique to remove sticking leads with additional leads. Fastening screws with soldering machine heat. Everything is a personal hardware developer's bible.
Heya everyone. As this great project deserves it, I put a little of my own effort into it. While all credits are going to makermoekoe, just wanted to leave a tiny note, that the fork of p1ngb4ck is actively developed on and has basic wifi connectivity, i2c-scanner, ota flashing and compatibility with latest library versions. Also a working BOM is provided on that fork. All changes were minor and not much work in comparison to the original project, but maybe it could be helpful to someone. Additional wifi-controls and surveillance for the oven and saving temp-curves via wifi are currently in development
If you are doing a revision, add a way to monitor the input wave form. This will help you with controlling the coils accurately. Otherwise using PWM or something along the lines will feed harmonics into your house wiring.
@@KnaufLyou can also use the reverse phase dimmer approach, instead of turning on outside of zero cross they turn on at zero cross and off elsewhere. Current is always ramping up at a rate of the cosine of the sine and down, well that’s fast but less problematic.
Thanks for posting the files also! Visiting shenzhen (not chinese) and was looking at toaster ovens on taobao today pondering making something like that. (although hopefully portable somehow)
Vielen Dank! 🤩Hat sich leider sehr lange gezogen... Am 18. Januar war das Unboxing des Ofens und erst danach habe ich angefangen die Platine zu designen/bestellen/bestücken. Fertiggestellt habe ich das Projekt vor ca. 3 Wochen, nur das Schneiden des Videos hat noch etwas gedauert 😄
Very interesting project that I have now started building for the integration with hot plate. Was wondering if you managed to calculate values for the inductors in Pi matching network. Not sure what the impedance we are supposed to match against as the datasheet for ESP32 does not mention anything.
Nice video, very precise! How are you insulating the top layer while reflowing the bottom layer? the top layer components should fall if the board is heated as per the solder profile. Very curious to know. Thanks
On the product page of the oven it says that it has a stepless temperature control from 100 - 230 °C. In the video, however, you have also set 250 °C. I wonder how that works?
How are you reflowing the opposing side without losing parts from the top? That bare board is creating enuf isolation that the top doesn’t flow? I recently tried just setting boards on a PID controlled hot plate at 245C and they flow inside of 20-30 seconds tops then slide them off and they cool on a granite cutting board. Definitely violates any reflow profile in the sense of ramp time…prob not the best thing but it works. I wouldn’t shoot the result into orbit but for simple non mission critical stuff it works.
Hey! It was fine for all my needs but currently I am thinking of buying a new one because the minimum air flow is sometimes too high for some smaller components… Or at least I have to „tune“ it a bit by myself 😁
Wow, this is absolutely incredible! Just out of curiosity, why did you apply the extra solder to the ESP32 with the soldering iron? It seemed like it should have worked fine without that. Is that recommended?
For smaller parts this isn‘t a problem, they won‘t fall off because they stick into the paste… For bigger components I will use glue or kapton tape or something like this, not even sure about
@@makermoekoe fair enough. It'd be cool if you could make a little holder for the PCB to sit on and it keeps everything against the board whilst upside down
Amazing work and your timing is fortuitous as I need to build an oven (I’m embarking on a batch of 125 small double sided PCBs). Any chance you will be doing a kit of board & parts? Keep up the great work!
You make it look easy but it's incredible what can be done with a bit of ingenuity. I'm really hoping to create some of my own boards for custom 3D printer projects I have planned. How practical is it to use at home methods like this to flow components like an STM32 MCU, stepper motor drivers, etc? The plans I have would be fairly small and only incorporate one or two chips like this on a single board so nothing too complicated.
@@makermoekoe btw would it be possible to have like a quick video in wich you show what the board is capable of in terms of features and such? that would be awesome
I know this sounds dumb as hell but what is the metal sheet that you use to align the solder to the components ( the ones with the precut out spots on where the solder goes on certain components), and amazing work inspired me to try to learn how to do it myself!
Es increíble el trabajo de microsoldadura qué ases y tengo una pregunta la plancha para soldar tu la as hecho o se puede comprar en alguna parte por qué neseciro una de esas para trabajo de microsoldadura para celulare
It is a bit concerning to have main high power on the board with the interface buttons. Also, those PCB traces for main appear to not have the capacity for the oven power. Very nice video and project, but electrical safety is a concern.
ty for sharing - but its very very hard to rebuild, as you dont provide a BOM on your github. Not everything can be known from the eagle assembly file. For example the exact type of RT9193 chips could you maybe update that ? I am trying to rebuild this project and struggling hard
I'm in the same situation... a friend and I just tried to upload your files to JLB PCB to get them to do the assembly work for us... but the BOM is incomplete with a couple of missing components, components without specifications (caps) and a few non matching footprints. It's kind of a chicken and egg situation for me as to build at home I either need a reflow oven or hotplate... currently I have neither. Any help would be appreciated. - love your videos...
@@TheBpgoa I now made all my orders and the PCB will arrive in a few days. As soon as I can confirm my build works, I will put up a detailed parts list on github, that should enable everyone to find the necessary parts easily, even if direct links dont work as the part is not available etc.etc. Several things went clear to me after inspecting the circuit schematics thoroughly and re-checking the video parts of the soldering check. Towards the "hen/egg" problem: I am building my PCB DIY Heaterplate first using an Arduino. Basically a V3 of the V2 Version of sb else here on YT. With that one I will then be able to reflow the pcb for the oven.
@@TheBpgoa the capacitors with 0402 footprint (F2 & F3) are just used to generate a footprint on the pcb if inductors shall later be put there - I am not too far into that myself but you can see it on the video too if you take a close look. The RT9193 needs the 3.3V Version of the chip. Footprints do match, but make sure to get the SC-70-5 Version of it - on Aliexpress all of them are SOT23 which is bigger. I could not get it from anywhere as its nowhere in stock in SC-70-5 package. Therefore I ordered some SC573V33RTRC from mouser - these "should" be a direct replacement for the RT9193, but I am unsure an need to confirm first. Also, 2 of the pin-headers can be left empty (the 2.00 & 2.54 Headers of the assembly files, entry 2 and 3 on the list). Will give updates as soon as my own build is working.
@@TheBpgoa btw that "p1ngb4ck" (me) guy on github proposed a csv file to the project as a pull request, with my ordered parts, if you already want to have a look at what I ordered
Seems there was a render/export problem at 3:10 ... :(
Sorry for that!
Haha I thought you added it as a special effect.
@@oktopus1539 looks artsy
Thanks for posting a tutorial! Nice build! The second side was a lower temp solder paste?
I literally just finished my own design and assembly for this for a cheap toaster oven, the timing of this is hilarious
I do want to ask though, for the ESP32, how did you determine which L/C to use for the antenna when incorporating your own?
@@nathanpendergrast6917 Haha great! My antenna has a great simulation for it: product.tdk.com/de/search/rf/rf/antenna/simulation?pid=1000000249767
A word of warning, if you do a few runs consecutively or have it for a few years, you will almost 100% likely cause heat warping to your 3D printed front and acrylic sheet. I know this because my design is similar in that I took the front off the original oven to replace it with my own designed 3D printed front. I used ABS which is okay to about 100C and better than PETG or PLA but it wasn't enough. In future will use Nylon or CF-Nylon. Will probably add a strip of titanium or Stainless Steel as a thermal insulator between oven door and Front-interface printed housing.
This is one of the most finished-looking PCB refloasters I've seen! Awesome job!
Super glad to hear this! Thanks!
Gosh that's some smooth looking UI you've written there :) well done! 👍
when i watch your videos i feel the master degree of job in electronic
I tried something similar a while ago, but putting the electronics inside the Oven was a mistake. After a few hours it started to produce errors due to the bad heat isolation between the reflow chamber and where I put the electrics. Your design seems better in that regard though. What I noticed was, that turning the oven on and off by hand and using a thermocouple as reference was plenty good for my needs. I did PCBs with 150mm x 150mm and ground planes without problems
That first stencil jig, came out awesome..
This was an excellent episode. The video and the background music make this a very calming movie to watch. Well done, Cheers.
Glad to hear! People often tell me that the background music is annoying but for me it is like you said as well... Thanks!
It's about time someone made this. Nicely done!
There are tons of DIY reflow ovens out there! 😳 Thanks!
@@makermoekoe I've seen a few hacked together, but I haven't seen a proper PCB that could just be installed. It was one of the projects on my list. You could sell the ovens with PCB as a kit.
Nicely done! I always like seeing video of the moment the solder melts and creates the fillet. :))
A couple questions:
1) With such a large oven, is there a problem with thermal 'lag' especially on the ramp down?
2) Cool idea with the vacuum hold-down, though I thought I saw some mis-registration with the stencil. Is there a way to make sure it's dead-on?
3) Have you ever used dry-transfer letters to label your acrylic. I've used white letters on smoky gray, and it usually looks really cool!
Can't wait to see your next one.
Take care.
Man, the quality of your work is mighty impressive. And your lab looks awesome as well. And this gold enig finish on black PCBs is very beautiful.
I'm working on an ESP-32 controller for a personal project, and I wish I knew how to do 4 layer design or do impedance matching for ceramic antennas. Any tips?
Thank you so much for those words!
Regarding the four layer stackup there are awesome videos by EEVblog which I can definitely recommend. Impedance matching isn't easy at all... For some antennas there are great datasheets with simulation stuff but sometimes it's just trial & error for me as well. The antenna which I'm currently using has this little helper: product.tdk.com/de/search/rf/rf/antenna/simulation?pid=1000000249767
Cool as usual, but the standard reflow process has a limited T and time, so-called profile curve(usually IPC/JEDEC J-STD-020D.1 or so), you can find that in many silicon part's PDF. An oven like this can control T, however, many SMT parts are sensitive to accumulated exposed time(low-noise amps, plastic connectors, stacked film-caps etc).
In fact, simple hot-air may be safer.
this is the most beautiful piece of art i have ever seen
Glad to hear! Thanks 😍
Herzlichen Glückwunsch zu 100k Abonnenten!
Cooles Projekt. 👍🏻
Yay. I've been waiting so hard for the video to come out. I love you videos, they're so satisfying.
Glad to hear my friend! Thanks 😍
Awesome project. Great video! Thank you for all the info and files.
Thank you! 🤩
Wow that front panel m8 is so well thought and awesome.
Love your work, amazing video as always!
Thank you!!
So damn freaking cool, this is on my bucket list of projects
Thank you! 🤩 Have fun building your own!
0:33 awesome!! what a great idea!!
You'll find more details about this in my last video 🙂
@@makermoekoe lol. you are right.
U showed a lot of skills that individual developers can take advantage of.
Two different types of stencil fixing techniques.
-vacuum -A physical fixture -made by 3D printing.
Solder paste application device using stencil plate also.
Two different types of SMD soldering techniques.
-hot plate in the open air -Oven in the closed chamber
Pre-soldering techniques and flux application techniques.
Display fixing hole using tweezers.
also Fine technique to remove sticking leads with additional leads.
Fastening screws with soldering machine heat.
Everything is a personal hardware developer's bible.
Next project: A beautiful PNP machine for your new lab. 🙂
Not sure if you follow on Instagram? Have built one, it is close to assemble all my PCBs 😍 There will be a video here soon!
Truly amaizing video! Great work! 😊
Haha thanks!
Awesome pcb, awesome editing!
Nice vaccuuuuuum bed !
Awesome work done with the stencil box my friend! 💪🏻
Heya everyone. As this great project deserves it, I put a little of my own effort into it. While all credits are going to makermoekoe, just wanted to leave a tiny note, that the fork of p1ngb4ck is actively developed on and has basic wifi connectivity, i2c-scanner, ota flashing and compatibility with latest library versions. Also a working BOM is provided on that fork.
All changes were minor and not much work in comparison to the original project, but maybe it could be helpful to someone. Additional wifi-controls and surveillance for the oven and saving temp-curves via wifi are currently in development
When you have all the tools you need for all your projects in your own home 😁
Wow. Great video brother... Thanks...
Thank you!
If you are doing a revision, add a way to monitor the input wave form. This will help you with controlling the coils accurately. Otherwise using PWM or something along the lines will feed harmonics into your house wiring.
I think this is easily solved by using an input filter like a PC PSU has, using Y caps and L-C combinations
@@KnaufLyou can also use the reverse phase dimmer approach, instead of turning on outside of zero cross they turn on at zero cross and off elsewhere. Current is always ramping up at a rate of the cosine of the sine and down, well that’s fast but less problematic.
I thought you would bake smth in the video's end)) maybe cake, biscuits, cheesecake, but.... Just chip)
Sehr cool. Ich glaube, sowas brauche ich auch.
Kann definitiv sehr hilfreich sein! Und erstmal ist "haben" ja auch besser als "brauchen" 😄
@@makermoekoe Genau so ist es 😁
Your videos are satisfying. Good job what microscope do you have?
Thanks man! I‘m using the Andonstar AD409 👌🏻
Thanks for posting the files also! Visiting shenzhen (not chinese) and was looking at toaster ovens on taobao today pondering making something like that. (although hopefully portable somehow)
Wow , that was so cool, I love it!
Thank you!
Skills 110% ✅
Thanks 🦾
Awesome. Thank you for the video. BTW, I wonder how you dealt with the ground loop and the short between thermocouples.
Great video! But that music at the start sounded like someone was strangling a cat 🙀
Hi, super Projekt wie immer.
Wie lange hast du dafür insgesamt gebraucht? Würde mich sehr interessieren. Gruß
Vielen Dank! 🤩Hat sich leider sehr lange gezogen... Am 18. Januar war das Unboxing des Ofens und erst danach habe ich angefangen die Platine zu designen/bestellen/bestücken. Fertiggestellt habe ich das Projekt vor ca. 3 Wochen, nur das Schneiden des Videos hat noch etwas gedauert 😄
@@makermoekoe sehr cool, verkaufst du das als set oder war das nur für dich selbst ?
How did you do the other side without the components falling off on the underside
Thanks! Nice build! The second side was a lower temp solder paste?
Wow you have cool components ....and great quality camera...canu tell us every thing b/c i want to have....
Вы просто волшебник!!!
Such a clever design!
nice project
Thanks!
Nice work!
Very interesting project that I have now started building for the integration with hot plate. Was wondering if you managed to calculate values for the inductors in Pi matching network. Not sure what the impedance we are supposed to match against as the datasheet for ESP32 does not mention anything.
Nice video, very precise!
How are you insulating the top layer while reflowing the bottom layer? the top layer components should fall if the board is heated as per the solder profile. Very curious to know. Thanks
ulala nice werk mokebe
Thank you 😁
On the product page of the oven it says that it has a stepless temperature control from 100 - 230 °C. In the video, however, you have also set 250 °C. I wonder how that works?
You are awesome bro, well done
Hello. Excellent video.
Thank you ☺️
How are you reflowing the opposing side without losing parts from the top? That bare board is creating enuf isolation that the top doesn’t flow?
I recently tried just setting boards on a PID controlled hot plate at 245C and they flow inside of 20-30 seconds tops then slide them off and they cool on a granite cutting board.
Definitely violates any reflow profile in the sense of ramp time…prob not the best thing but it works. I wouldn’t shoot the result into orbit but for simple non mission critical stuff it works.
is there no cabling wiring example?
Very GREAT JOB. Thank you. :)
THANK YOUUU!
Hey Moritz, are you good? So, do you like this your dual soldering station (852d+) ? Any bad point about? Thanks!
Hey! It was fine for all my needs but currently I am thinking of buying a new one because the minimum air flow is sometimes too high for some smaller components… Or at least I have to „tune“ it a bit by myself 😁
Wow, this is absolutely incredible! Just out of curiosity, why did you apply the extra solder to the ESP32 with the soldering iron? It seemed like it should have worked fine without that. Is that recommended?
Great project
Do you have a connection between the PCB and the oven?
An awesome project...
Thank you!
Horray ✊✊✊
🤩🤩🤩
🍻
This looks soooo interesting. Subbed here.
No entendí funciona con aire caliente?, O es una plancha , buen vídeo
What is the key to successful 2 side soldering?
did you also create a wifi interface for the oven? would make settings even easier....
Not yet but there are possibilities to do it
Good job!.. You said universal.. What about hight temperature ovns or kiln to be akurate? Was program allredy prepared for that.?
Loved It.
This is awesome! Is there a reason why you didn't use a WROOM module and an S3? Would be nice to control everything with my phone with a great UX...
Good Job
Thank you very much, which ESP-32 S2 is this? 128 KB?
Wow that looks amazing!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 do you share some open source stuff or sell it? I would purchase a board from you
The project is open source, link is in the description! 💪🏻 Currently not selling it
@@makermoekoe just thinking to replace my shitty „China commercial 160€“ oven with this.
How do you reflow the other side without the components falling off?
Do you have different solder that melts at a lower temperature?
For smaller parts this isn‘t a problem, they won‘t fall off because they stick into the paste… For bigger components I will use glue or kapton tape or something like this, not even sure about
@@makermoekoe fair enough. It'd be cool if you could make a little holder for the PCB to sit on and it keeps everything against the board whilst upside down
Amazing work and your timing is fortuitous as I need to build an oven (I’m embarking on a batch of 125 small double sided PCBs).
Any chance you will be doing a kit of board & parts?
Keep up the great work!
Have ordered some PCBs :)
Is there an ended part list / BOM somewhere? Say from your favourite component supplier? ;)
What are those black SMD buttons you keep using? They look neat.
is your 40 mhz crystal on upside down? Pin 1 on your schematic was on the top left of the esp32. The dot on the crystal shows where pin 1 is located.
How did you learn programming and electronics so well?
You make it look easy but it's incredible what can be done with a bit of ingenuity. I'm really hoping to create some of my own boards for custom 3D printer projects I have planned. How practical is it to use at home methods like this to flow components like an STM32 MCU, stepper motor drivers, etc? The plans I have would be fairly small and only incorporate one or two chips like this on a single board so nothing too complicated.
Amazing 👍👍
Thanks man!
Is it possible to order a stensil for a board, or do you have to buy a full board and one comes with it.
Excelente, muchas felicitaciones!!
Amazing dude... 🤩
Where do you get the console for your PCB and oven? 3D-printing? SLA or FDM?
Where do i get this spatula?
Guys what's the technical name of the female screw housing shown at 3:56 that he's placing with the soldering iron? Thanksss
These are called threaded inserts, or brass inserts, or heat inserts
@@makermoekoe thanks a lot, great project tho
When You reflowing 2nd side, is there any shift and dropping of component on 1st side? Or You using another paste with another thermal profile?
perfect!!!
Amazing!!!
Я б еще и пиццу там попробовал приготовить😆👍
Безопасно ли размещать электронику, пластик и твердотельное реле без радиатора в такой близости от нагреваемых поверхностей?
Very cool! What's the license? Github repo has no license file
Will the github link be available soon? exited to build one or more, hotplate and reflow oven incoming
It now is! Forgot to update 😁 Have fun!
@@makermoekoe thanksss
@@makermoekoe btw would it be possible to have like a quick video in wich you show what the board is capable of in terms of features and such? that would be awesome
Deeeeeeeeep bro🥰👌💥
Haha thanks man! 😍
I know this sounds dumb as hell but what is the metal sheet that you use to align the solder to the components ( the ones with the precut out spots on where the solder goes on certain components), and amazing work inspired me to try to learn how to do it myself!
Its a solder stencil
@@npnmusic8410 you a life saver thank you so much!
Do you have a link for where to find the vacuum cleaner solder paste jig?
You will find link to where to download it in my description here. ua-cam.com/video/mEEo1tJj9D8/v-deo.html
You'll find it in the description 🙂
@@makermoekoe thanks
Es increíble el trabajo de microsoldadura qué ases y tengo una pregunta la plancha para soldar tu la as hecho o se puede comprar en alguna parte por qué neseciro una de esas para trabajo de microsoldadura para celulare
Pienso que este se la hecho de Mano, pero si quieres el nombre es reflow hot plate (perdon si no es muy claro, yo no hablo mucho)
Which display are you using for the menu? Thanks
What kind of material is the white stuff the PCB on the oven is mounted to?
It is a bit concerning to have main high power on the board with the interface buttons. Also, those PCB traces for main appear to not have the capacity for the oven power. Very nice video and project, but electrical safety is a concern.
PS. And normally the temperature should be measured in a similar setup at the PCB, not on the open air.
Do you have a component list/files for the PCBBQ you could share?
ty for sharing - but its very very hard to rebuild, as you dont provide a BOM on your github. Not everything can be known from the eagle assembly file. For example the exact type of RT9193 chips
could you maybe update that ? I am trying to rebuild this project and struggling hard
I'm in the same situation... a friend and I just tried to upload your files to JLB PCB to get them to do the assembly work for us... but the BOM is incomplete with a couple of missing components, components without specifications (caps) and a few non matching footprints. It's kind of a chicken and egg situation for me as to build at home I either need a reflow oven or hotplate... currently I have neither. Any help would be appreciated. - love your videos...
@@TheBpgoa I now made all my orders and the PCB will arrive in a few days.
As soon as I can confirm my build works, I will put up a detailed parts list on github, that should enable everyone to find the necessary parts easily, even if direct links dont work as the part is not available etc.etc.
Several things went clear to me after inspecting the circuit schematics thoroughly and re-checking the video parts of the soldering check.
Towards the "hen/egg" problem: I am building my PCB DIY Heaterplate first using an Arduino. Basically a V3 of the V2 Version of sb else here on YT. With that one I will then be able to reflow the pcb for the oven.
@@TheBpgoa the capacitors with 0402 footprint (F2 & F3) are just used to generate a footprint on the pcb if inductors shall later be put there - I am not too far into that myself but you can see it on the video too if you take a close look.
The RT9193 needs the 3.3V Version of the chip. Footprints do match, but make sure to get the SC-70-5 Version of it - on Aliexpress all of them are SOT23 which is bigger. I could not get it from anywhere as its nowhere in stock in SC-70-5 package. Therefore I ordered some SC573V33RTRC from mouser - these "should" be a direct replacement for the RT9193, but I am unsure an need to confirm first.
Also, 2 of the pin-headers can be left empty (the 2.00 & 2.54 Headers of the assembly files, entry 2 and 3 on the list).
Will give updates as soon as my own build is working.
@@5L4P5T1CK How are you getting on...
@@TheBpgoa btw that "p1ngb4ck" (me) guy on github proposed a csv file to the project as a pull request, with my ordered parts, if you already want to have a look at what I ordered
Soo cool
how does the top side components do not fall off when the bottoms side is put for reflow?
Encoder will be nice